cyborgnumberblue
Member
I thought the generic scaler was pretty OK, too, considering the price.
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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!
- Thread starter Mega
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I thought the generic scaler was pretty OK, too, considering the price.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
Please excuse the double post, but would anybody have any info on the Sony KV-36HS510 TV? Somebody has one listed for 50 bucks on craigslist, roughly 5 minutes away from me and I would be more than ready to snatch it up, but I remember something about HD capable CRTs not being well-suited for gaming.
Any info is much appreciated!
Any info is much appreciated!
Lionheart1827
Member
Thanks man!
I'm still kind of new to this, but which cables do I actually need for this thing? It mentions EUR scart on that framemeister, but I'm looking at this cable to hook up to my SNES: Pro RGB cable but it mentions its only compatible with JP21 inputs. So I'm a little confused and dont want to end up frying a 300+ dollar unit for the wrong cable
Any help is appreciated.Stay away from HD CRTs for retro games.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
NormalFish
Banned
Look, man, I'm working on it.
Barrel Cannon
Member
Those old timers ey. Fortunately for you Dreamcast isn't too outrageously expensive to collect for.
NormalFish
Banned
It's more about trying to stay kinda compact for a few years lol. I've been eyeing dreamcasts for months but I'm not sure diving in to a new system is in my best interests at the moment.
Some Dreamcast games are getting pricey though.
socksfelloff
Member
Deciding I wanted to collect gamecube is what sent me down this disgusting path of needing to own everything. I'm ashamed with myself but now I just contacted a guy selling a Neo Geo cabinet.
NormalFish
Banned
Enjoy poverty
cyborgnumberblue
Member
At least those MVS carts are cheaper than AVS, plus the MVS NeoSD and all!
But yeah, there's a reason I'm still using a multi-cart with my MVS and its name is $$$$.
I feel you. Ever since picking up a Naomi cab (which I have since sold), and then a bunch of carts and a Net Dimm, it sent me down this spiral of picking up arcade shit. While it's sort of ugly and you can't as easily display it on a shelf, it's higher barrier to entry has kept the prices down. (MVS being the exception.)
I finally stopped kidding myself this weekend and got a CPS2 setup. This is the closest I've ever felt to walking away from the game...
Barrel Cannon
Member
I know some of them are pretty insane but for the most part I feel like the majority of great games can be still had for a price that won't break the wallet. For me though the main thing that's kept my spending down in terms of collecting for anything Dreamcast and older is the fact that I have been leaning towards Japan releases instead of NTSC/PAL
Well I had to sell my Candy Cab (Naomi Universal with Virtua Tennis) because I was living in a tiny condo at the time, but I'd eventually like to grab another one.
The PSU is connected to the supergun, which is connect to my PVM. Basically I just change the board that's connected to the supergun to change games/hardware. With the MVS or Naomi attached, it's as simple as swapping the game "cart" (basically enclosed PCBs) to change games.
The Naomi setup can be a little more involved, requiring an additional PSU, and a few pieces of extra hardware because I have a Net Dimm attached (this allows you to 'download' a game into the arcade board's memory to play) but it's worth it.
My supergun outputs to Saturn controller ports, so I either use regular Saturn pads or my HSS-0130 for a more authentic arcade feel.
It's a lot to initially wrap your head around, but it's been a fun experience to learn.
What kind of monitors do the candy cabs use? Could you jam a PVM in there or would it be better to use the original?
I'm asking because a friend of mine is looking to sell his candy cab, and I'm trying to find out how easily I could put up a system where I could put a multi-cart in there? Or do I need to use these various arcade boards.
Or would it be better (=cheaper) to set up a supergun to use with my PVM.
No, if you're going to get the FM with a euro scart connector then all your cables have to be euro scart. Don't get ANY JP21 cables. Go to https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/ and get the euro scart cable that matches your console's region.Thanks man!
I'm still kind of new to this, but which cables do I actually need for this thing? It mentions EUR scart on that framemeister, but I'm looking at this cable to hook up to my SNES: Pro RGB cable but it mentions its only compatible with JP21 inputs. So I'm a little confused and dont want to end up frying a 300+ dollar unit for the wrong cable
If you're planning to spend hundreds of dollars getting retro consoles running on modern displays then you should do a lot of research first.
Step 1: Read all of the OP. All of it.
Step 2: Watch all the MLiG videos for level 100 and then the level 200 and 300 that pertain to you. https://www.youtube.com/user/mylifeingaming/playlists
Step 3: Say goodbye to all your money.
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
This is all good advice. Particularly the bit about not bothering with JP21 cables. I made the mistake of buying some a year ago, and yeah... everything these days is designed around euro scart. Oh well, lesson learned.
He deleted this video and replaced it with an updated one. He just made it clear that you don't need to replace the 6.3V capacitor with a 16V one like his previous video made it seen. I also don't remember the PCB in the scart head being a part of the old video. It's about identifying when it's a sync stripper and when it's a sync booster.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3sE3uk5kPU
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
So, someone in here recommended it, and I was wondering if anyone else cares to weigh in on whether this is the right choice for a SCART cable, or if I should get something from retrogamingcables instead:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYELZXE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Probably fine, but you can never be too sure with this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYELZXE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Probably fine, but you can never be too sure with this stuff.
Triforce141
Member
I've had that specific cable for months and it's really good
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
Cool, thanks. It's quite a bit cheaper, too, so I'm glad there's a decent solution here.
Why's that? Native RGB on a PVM can look better, but an HD CRT like a Wega still offers a great picture.
RadarScope1
Member
It's in the OP, but it's not very in-depth. Basically they do a whole bunch of processing garbage that you can't always turn off. They're not terrible, but not really that good, either. Kind of a worst-of-all-worlds thing. SD CRTs are readily available and there's really nothing special about these HD sets that make them worth it. Also, they're typically even heavier and harder to move. Some Google-fu will probably turn up more in-depth info.
I dig them both. Majority of my systems are JP21. Even the rarer things like my Sigma. I dunno, I just prefer a Japanese pipeline instead of daisy-chaining SCART. Plus I dig using some of the official cables for fun. 🤣
That said...have a ton of SCART and wanna get one of the new lite switches to try.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
That particular unit is about 230lbs, and I ain't trying to die today.
NormalFish
Banned
Real Retro Bros bench CRTs.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
Bro, rack me another 20M2MDU for my 1 rep max.
Speaking of which, here's a quick shot from my Toshiba CRT. It was in rough shape, but finally got in the service menu and straightened it out (literally). I got the SNES and Genesis Retrovision cables specifically for this TV and am quite impressed. Posted more in the 240p Scanline thread.
However, I noticed something on a few vertical scrolling shooters. The bottom of the screen sort of seemed squished creating a sort of "rolling pin" effect. I adjusted the V Linearity a few notches and that seemed to sort it out, but was wondering if anybody had a similar issue and had a different methodology.
Here's a nice list of available 480i FD Trinitrons/WEGA models for future reference
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA
socksfelloff
Member
My next purchase is a detached home in Mississauga so all of a sudden the arcade gear feels like pennies to me
lolToday is bench day for me. If I ever get 2 identical busted crts I will core through them and bench them for retrogaf!
bodine1231
Member
I know what you mean. When I start collecting something I go fucking overboard. I while ago I got a bug up my ass to get a japanese candy cab. Spent months looking for one down south but they are next to impossible to find. I got super lucky (like the PVM haul) and found a couple of guys on Reddit near me who tried starting their own barcade in New Orleans but failed. I PM'd the guy (this was like two years after they posted),and low and behold they still had them and were willing to sell for pretty cheap. Now I got three of these Blast Cities in my living room and kitchen in various states of repair (one is fully restored) and a whole spare room filled with arcade hardware. I couldn't just buy one,no,I need one tate and one yoko,and I figured I bought two of theirs,might as well get them all.
You think Geometry on a PVM is annoying to fix? Having to stick magnetized pieces of tape near the anode cap on a running arcade CRT will give you nightmares.
I have no idea why I bought the third one,I barely have room for two (b-a-r-e-l-y). I thought, "these are impossible to find in the south I might as well snatch them while I can". I got the empty one on Craigslist,hoping to trade for a game collection or something,lol.
Depends on the candy cab. The Sega ones tend to use Nanao chassis and can switch multiple res (depending on model). The best is the MS-2931 because it automatically switches resolutions,the older models you have to manually do it.
No you can't just jam a PVM in there,they have a special frame that fits around the monitor so it can be rotated. Most tend to be 27" for the Japanese style,but it depends. Also,many will have various levels of burn in from running attract mode 12 hours per day,so always ask about that. If one goes out on you good luck finding someone to repair it,and finding things like spare flybacks and full replacement chassis are next to impossible and very expensive. Not trying to scare you,just letting you know what you might be in for.
My advice would be to look into a Groovymame setup. Its essentially a lagless version of mame that runs at native 240p,I believe it was designed by someone on the shmups forum. Pair it with a nice front end like Launchbox and its all you'll need. Its what I have on mine and your best bang for buck. Arcade PCB's are CRAZY EXPENSIVE (Batsugun is like $800) I can make a video of mine for you if you'd like.
Triforce141
Member
I got my Core Grafx and have been experiencing issues with it.
Whenever I turn on the system, no matter if I have a game in or not, when using composite or RGB, it gives me a solid color screen (white, brown, pink, etc.) and freezes there. I don't know what's going on, I'm using the official AC adapter by the way.
Whenever I turn on the system, no matter if I have a game in or not, when using composite or RGB, it gives me a solid color screen (white, brown, pink, etc.) and freezes there. I don't know what's going on, I'm using the official AC adapter by the way.
ACESmkII
Member
Is it modded with RGB and or a region switch? I've seen a pink screen before when forgetting to switch regions when playing between different Hu Cards.
Triforce141
Member
I have a db Grafx Booster and no region switch, completely unmodded Core Grafx.
bodine1231
Member
Is your scart cable using the correct sync? I had to use a scart cable + blue component cable plugged into into my PVM to correct a similar issue but mine looks different from yours. Also make sure its in all the way,mine is really tight and I had to push it in really hard.
Triforce141
Member
It's CSYNC, but the problem persists on both db grafx scart and composite directly from the console
Shin Johnpv
Member
If I remember right that's just how the core grafx and such boot up if there's no game in place. I would start with cleaning your hucard slot and the connectors on any games you have.
Triforce141
Member
That's a relief
Cleaned both the slot, and the Everdrive I've got (its region is set to PCE), but still solid colored screen. I'm getting an imported game later this week to be sure which one's acting up
Shin Johnpv
Member
hmm what version everdrive, (newest one?) I think the hucard slot itself can be a bitch to clean, not really sure what to recommend to help with cleaning it. Are you going at it with some strong (like 90+ %) isopropyl? You could also try something like deoxit, that has made some stuff work for me when just regular cleaning wouldn't.
Triforce141
Member
Newest Turbo Everdrive (2.5) and used 50% isopropyl to clean. Since qtips didn't fit, I got some cotton gauze, wrapped it on an end of a card and inserted it into the Coregrafx
If the Japanese copy of Doraemon works when I get it, then the Everdrive's probably a defect and I'll have to get a replacement from StoneAgeGamer. Either that or if Doraemon gives me the white screen too, then I'll need to find someone for repairs
IrishNinja
Member
so, i was able to change it from "auto" but the sync section doesn't let me adjust the level...maybe it's tied to another setting? im using the GC profile over D, not doing anything else special here but can't seem to eliminate the flickering on white backgrounds. i recall the saturn doing this too in games like clockwork knight.
NormalFish
Banned
my framemeister is boxed up and in storage or I'd check for you. Gimme a moment I'll check the wiki for the setting.
Wait, you can't change sync level? That's definitely the setting.
This part about Groovymame is interesting. So basically you just stick a PC inside the cabinet and run it from there? I have, like, absolutely no knowledge on how these things work, so I don't know if I should pull the trigger on this.
bodine1231
Member
Yes but the best part is that almost any dual core pc will work and you just need to buy the proper video card (I use a Radeon 4350) and a Jpac. It takes some work getting setup but there are guides to follow and what to buy but everything is cheap since it's using old hardware.
You could also go with one of those pandora multi pcbs to get you started. The emulation is not great but it's still the cheapest way to get you playing.
the androgyne
Member
I think maybe SYNC_LEVEL can only be adjusted on RGB input.
Tbh i'm afraid of going anywhere near that setting... soon after i got my Framemeister i was fiddling a bit too much... i think i set it to something too far off, the OSD timed out and i had to navigate back through the menus blind to get it back up. For some reason the safety button on the remote didn't want to help either (you have to hold it down but i don't think it cleared out the offending setting).
Have you just tried without the GC profile?
bodine1231
Member
Possible PVM haul #2 incoming...
Just heard back from another studio. The guys reply to my copy/paste email... "yes,we have many,how many do you want".
More news as it develops
Just heard back from another studio. The guys reply to my copy/paste email... "yes,we have many,how many do you want".
More news as it develops
sixteen-bit
Member
Nice!
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