j2theizzay
Member
It should pick it up automatically, but if not you may need to right click the sound icon and select the HDMI out for default playback device.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
It should pick it up automatically, but if not you may need to right click the sound icon and select the HDMI out for default playback device.
1) Yeah, it's pretty good. Best option for you is to get a better CPU cooling solution and overclock more.
2) That's a tough one, and dependent upon how much you want to spend. When you're upgrading from a really good part like that, you can't purchase from the priceerformance, it's better to look at price:gained performance. I can't say for certain what that is, but my gut tells me 7950.
3) You shouldn't. Your processor is still great.
Yes.
Hey thanks very much for the reply.
As for the 7950, what "brand" do you recommend? Can you link me to one you would recommend as far as quality and price go. For instance the top Amazon link is a Sapphire.
Thanks a ton!
You've been really helpful, thanks!
One more question, and I know this is probably difficult to answer. What would you expect to be a performance increase for my computer going from a 5850 1 gig to this card, 7950 3 gig either, like a general fps increase amount or percentage. Thanks again for the help!
brotkasten
Member
Why did I do this?
I found someone selling a 2600K for 200. It supposedly runs at 4.5 GHz @ 1,284V. For 30 more I could probably make him throw some 8 GB Corsair Vengeance. This offer, plus a new Maximus V Gene is 10 bucks more expensive than a new 2500K with new Kingston RAM.
Thoughts? Is this a good deal?
I found someone selling a 2600K for 200. It supposedly runs at 4.5 GHz @ 1,284V. For 30 more I could probably make him throw some 8 GB Corsair Vengeance. This offer, plus a new Maximus V Gene is 10 bucks more expensive than a new 2500K with new Kingston RAM.
Thoughts? Is this a good deal?
StriKeVillain
Banned
Same here - it ran most games fine but I just dropped the ball when shopping. I just recently upgraded to a 560TI 448. So much better.
I believe there is a relative performance chart in the OP. Also, you'll want to do the better heatsink + overclock as well to get even more performance.
*edit* looks like about a 45-60% boost in video performance. Hard to say for certain how much the CPU will bottleneck, but not likely very much at all with a good overclock.
Just bought the MVGene as well. That plus a solid 2600/2700K is still seemingly the best way to go for maximum performance.
Anandtech has a nice BENCH comparison link on their website and it's in the OP if you ctrl+F bench
Yup
Question :
So I decided to impulse buy a GeForce 680 GTX, but my current power supply is a OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W, which seems a have quite some mixed reviews. Is this a sufficent PSU(with 2500k not overlocked CPU) or should I think about upgrading to a more reliable one.
So I decided to impulse buy a GeForce 680 GTX, but my current power supply is a OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W, which seems a have quite some mixed reviews. Is this a sufficent PSU(with 2500k not overlocked CPU) or should I think about upgrading to a more reliable one.
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
Thanks. Currently my CPU is reading +68.0°F/+20°C and MB +64°F/+18°C in BIOS, are those temps alright?
You should be fine.
What mobo do you have? I'm going to guess that's above ambient so that's fine.
SwimmingwithChickenz
Banned
Ok guys really need your input if you dont mind. I've made some changes after some more research and have updated my build. Please note any problems that you see. I wanted to keep my budget under $700 but that didn't quite work and am now close to $900. My better half gave me the go ahead so before I purchase it, was hoping to get the ok from more of the technically minded PC users in here. Please keep in mind, this will be used to run Tera Online at max settings and hopefully be capable enough of running next gen games at mid to high settings. If you think I could cut back and add onto to help better my build please feel free. This will be the first time I've tried putting a PC together as well. Thanks for you help!
Intel Core i5-2500K
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/Mini-HDMI SLI Ready Graphics Card, 01G-P3-1460-KR - 160
Corsair XMS3 8 GB (2 x 4GB) 1333 MHz PC3-10666 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 -
ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Z68 SATA 6 Gb/s and USB 3.0 ATX Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 2200 Intel Motherboard - 108
Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD5000AAKX
Asus 24xDVD±RW Drive DVD-RAM/±R/±RW 24x8x16x(DVD) 48x32x48x(CD) Serial ATA Internal OEM DRW-24B1ST - 19
Cooler Master RC-692-KKN2 PC case
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
Don't think I will overclock right away. Might do so later. Is the 600 W power supply enough for this system? Thanks again!
Intel Core i5-2500K
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/Mini-HDMI SLI Ready Graphics Card, 01G-P3-1460-KR - 160
Corsair XMS3 8 GB (2 x 4GB) 1333 MHz PC3-10666 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 -
ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Z68 SATA 6 Gb/s and USB 3.0 ATX Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 2200 Intel Motherboard - 108
Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM 16 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD5000AAKX
Asus 24xDVD±RW Drive DVD-RAM/±R/±RW 24x8x16x(DVD) 48x32x48x(CD) Serial ATA Internal OEM DRW-24B1ST - 19
Cooler Master RC-692-KKN2 PC case
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
Don't think I will overclock right away. Might do so later. Is the 600 W power supply enough for this system? Thanks again!
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
I'm running a p8z68-v lx. It's truly a miracle if that paste was applied in a way that works. I panic bought some remover before I went to work to day to give me some peace of mind.
On another note do you have any idea why the DVI out on my video card wouldn't work when the HD is fine? The DVI work on my first boot but the display had a green tint with lines running down it. After that I turned it off, tightened the DVI cable down and ever since then my monitor hasn't been picking up any kind of image at all.
You are in a tough spot, nVidia doesn't really have a good $200 card. They have the 460 and the 560Ti 448 being the good value. If possible jump to the 560Ti 448, if not, then the 560Ti.
600W is more than fine, but can you stretch to a Corsair 650WV2? Much better supply. Not modular though.
Jiggle it, plug and replug both sides. See if it works.
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
Thanks again for all the help. I'll give it a go tomorrow when I try and get my cable management sorted, after the 9 hours yesterday I really need a day off from it.
Quick question for you guys: What's the cheapest place to get windows 7 home premium retail edition? I currently have a pc with an e7200 and a gtx 470 that I haven't used in awhile and recently replaced the hard drive. The pc is so old the last OS it had on it was vista, and I have long since lost the product key. My plan was to buy windows 7, use this PC for awhile and then in a few months upgrade to a 2500k & new mobo and ram. I called Microsoft today to ensure I would be able to transfer the windows 7 license once this happened, and they said I could as long as I had the retail edition and not the OEM or upgrade. I assume most people here just go with the OEM edition that sells for around $100 on most sites, but since I plan on upgrading in the near future, I need the retail edition that I have been seeing for mostly $200. Is there any place I can get this cheaper or is there another way around the restrictions? I'd rather not spend $200 just for my OS, not to mention Windows 8 right around the corner. Any advice?
This is an odd question, but if I were to get one of these HD capture cards and play my consoles through my PC at 1920x1080, wouldn't that effectively make my PC an upscaler? The scaler in my TV is absolute shit, so would I maybe get a better picture this way? (In addition to the bonus of being able to capture gameplay for reviews and such.)
Play stupid and you can transfer the OEM no problem. The worst that will happen is you get an invalid code when you make the transfer. They'll be a 800 automated number you'll have to call to get it revalidated. You'll enter in 54 numbers and the automated voice will give you a new set of 54 numbers you enter into your computer. The automated voice will also ask you how many computers you've had this installed on. As long as you lie and say one, you should have zero issues transferring it to your new rig.
What
That was my reaction as well but i wanted to ask. Someone at work told me it would burn out eventually. I mean all hard drives might eventually break. Doesnt mean it will.
That was a reaction to some horse manure, they work perfectly for games, just faster.
This is what he's talking about;
SwimmingwithChickenz
Banned
Should I go with a comparible AMD card then, such as the 6870? Would i need to change mother boards if i switch to the AMD card? Really I'm just wanting to run Tera Online at max settings along with Diablo 3. I can always upgrade a little later if I need to. Thanks!
Yeah, 6870 is a really good choice for price
erformance. No, you don't need to change your motherboard.My PC recently died. After some troubleshooting, it turned out that the CPU had died, so I ran out and bought the 2500K/Asus P8Z68-V LX/8GB Kingston HyperX 1600 RAM.
Should I bother attempting an overclock with a 500W PSU? It's a Silverstone Element, which at the time of purchase was a fairly solid power supply. Aside from the stuff listed above, I'm running a GTX460, a DVD-R, and two hard drives. Another reason I'm a little iffy on overclocking since the q9550 I fried was overclocked extremely modestly (2.83GHz@3.2GHz), with a solid aftermarket heatsink.
I'm currently using Arctic Alumina and the Cooler Master 212+ recommended in Hazaro's (fantastic) guide and would be very happy to squeeze 4GHz. I was originally going to hold off on OC'ing until I replaced the power supply, but if I can safely push it past 3.3GHz without worrying too much, I'll do it.
One thing I noticed is that the CPU was running surprisingly high at 35C idle - the q9550 idled in the low 30s - but maybe the thermal compound hasn't broken in yet. I should also note that the cabling is a bit of a mess at the moment, and I plan on going modular once a good sale comes along (have my eye on an NZXT HALE32 650W, just waiting for it to dip in price a bit more).
Should I bother attempting an overclock with a 500W PSU? It's a Silverstone Element, which at the time of purchase was a fairly solid power supply. Aside from the stuff listed above, I'm running a GTX460, a DVD-R, and two hard drives. Another reason I'm a little iffy on overclocking since the q9550 I fried was overclocked extremely modestly (2.83GHz@3.2GHz), with a solid aftermarket heatsink.
I'm currently using Arctic Alumina and the Cooler Master 212+ recommended in Hazaro's (fantastic) guide and would be very happy to squeeze 4GHz. I was originally going to hold off on OC'ing until I replaced the power supply, but if I can safely push it past 3.3GHz without worrying too much, I'll do it.
One thing I noticed is that the CPU was running surprisingly high at 35C idle - the q9550 idled in the low 30s - but maybe the thermal compound hasn't broken in yet. I should also note that the cabling is a bit of a mess at the moment, and I plan on going modular once a good sale comes along (have my eye on an NZXT HALE32 650W, just waiting for it to dip in price a bit more).
Even with a meager 500W of juice? Alright, I'll give it a shot.
Ok thanks. And as I mentioned I am a tech newb so what do I need to look into for the "better heatsink and overclock"? Seriously thanks for the help
Depending on the heatsink you currently have, Coolermaster Hyper 212 is great. Here's a P55 overclocking guide that should help quite a bit. Don't get nervous, as long as you don't dump an insane amount of volts into your CPU, you're not going to kill anything. The worst that can happen otherwise is that your system will just shut off and you might need to clear CMOS.Ok thanks. And as I mentioned I am a tech newb so what do I need to look into for the "better heatsink and overclock"? Seriously thanks for the help
faceless007
Member
Is there any disadvantage to putting a SB (2500K) in a Z77 mobo? Would it still be able to use the native USB 3.0?
These undisclosed launches are dreadful. Will I be able to go to microcenter on sunday and pick up an ivy bridge cpu? Why can't you at least preorder these things? Or are they just going to pop up everywhere online on the 29th? Intel says the 29th, but no retailers are discussing stock.
Pretty much every hardware site reviewed this card last week, but I can't find it listed anywhere for sale and asus isn't saying when it'll be available or for how much. Enough with the teases.
Pretty much every hardware site reviewed this card last week, but I can't find it listed anywhere for sale and asus isn't saying when it'll be available or for how much. Enough with the teases.
Have not, but like I said, the cable management in that looks to be a nightmare. The AP181 fans aren't that loud at all, which is what the TJ08 has.
You could check out the Small Form Factor section on overclock.net, chances are someone there has used one.
In the OP. NCIX is best.
PCI-E 2.0 instead of 3.0, which isn't a big issue at all. The native USB 3.0 is on the Z77 chipset, not the processor.
HELP PLEASE
Hey guys, my brother is having a problem with his PC.
Whenever it boots up, he gets an error of ""Windows failed to start. A recent hardware or software change might be the cause."
First thing we thought was that it was the memory since he switched it out last week, so we ran memory diagnostics and no errors.
It started after he installed the Diablo 3 Beta, so we figured to do a complete format and then reinstall windows completely. Problem still occurs.
Ran memory diagnostic again and then crystaldiskinfo to see if theres any bad HDD sectors, and no problems.
This occurs every time he starts the computer and all he has to do is click "start windows normally" and it boots up fine.
Any idea? We're at a loss.
Specs:
X4 640 3.0ghz, no overclock
Asus M5A78L-M LX PLUS Socket AM3+ 760G mATX
Evga 460gtx 768mb
500gb Samsung HDD
XMS3 8gb 1600mhz RAM
500w StealthxStream OCZ Power Supply
Temperatures of key components (e.g., CPU, GPU, northbridge) and/or the inside of the case -- also, whether or not you're overclocking and/or using exotic (i.e. water-) cooling
No overclocking. Temps at about 35C idle. 55C under intelburn test load. GPU at 40C idle.
The voltages everything is running at
Everything stock
How long you've had your computer for
A little over over a year.
Whether or not you've tried diagnosing the problem already (e.g., from software, by finding a solution online), and (if so) what the results were
Reinstalled windows after formatting HDD. Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic, IntelBurn Test and returned no errors. There is no error code when booting up. Just a black screen stating the message "Windows Failed to start" with two options of starting Windows Repair or starting windows normally.
Hey guys, my brother is having a problem with his PC.
Whenever it boots up, he gets an error of ""Windows failed to start. A recent hardware or software change might be the cause."
First thing we thought was that it was the memory since he switched it out last week, so we ran memory diagnostics and no errors.
It started after he installed the Diablo 3 Beta, so we figured to do a complete format and then reinstall windows completely. Problem still occurs.
Ran memory diagnostic again and then crystaldiskinfo to see if theres any bad HDD sectors, and no problems.
This occurs every time he starts the computer and all he has to do is click "start windows normally" and it boots up fine.
Any idea? We're at a loss.
Specs:
X4 640 3.0ghz, no overclock
Asus M5A78L-M LX PLUS Socket AM3+ 760G mATX
Evga 460gtx 768mb
500gb Samsung HDD
XMS3 8gb 1600mhz RAM
500w StealthxStream OCZ Power Supply
Temperatures of key components (e.g., CPU, GPU, northbridge) and/or the inside of the case -- also, whether or not you're overclocking and/or using exotic (i.e. water-) cooling
No overclocking. Temps at about 35C idle. 55C under intelburn test load. GPU at 40C idle.
The voltages everything is running at
Everything stock
How long you've had your computer for
A little over over a year.
Whether or not you've tried diagnosing the problem already (e.g., from software, by finding a solution online), and (if so) what the results were
Reinstalled windows after formatting HDD. Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic, IntelBurn Test and returned no errors. There is no error code when booting up. Just a black screen stating the message "Windows Failed to start" with two options of starting Windows Repair or starting windows normally.
I should have mentioned that, I cranked it down as low as it would go, 1.42v seems OK so far.
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Most of the Arkham City charts are labled Arkham Asylum, weird. Also, why is everyone not using Witcher 2 in their benchmarks? Witcher 2, Arkham City, and Battlefield 3 are the best looking games around. Those three games should be in every benchmark.
HELP PLEASE
Have you tried using a windows repair disc? Whenever I get this error I use my windows repair disc and let it work it's magic.
That's the first thing we tried and it happened the very next day after running the repair.
And yes the HDD has even the primary boot device ever since the computer was built.
Like I said, it's not like the computer fails to boot completely. It just gives this error and two choices. 1) run windows repair. 2) start windows normally. Repair does nothing, but picking start windows normally boots the computer just fine and everything works.
You can't install windows on a formatted drive with it as the primary boot drive, so at some point, it has not been. Double check.
Can you test a different hard drive using his system, or even hook up his hard drive to a different PC and see if the error comes up?
Will do when I get home from class. When he reinstalled windows, he pressed f8 on boot and chose boot from cd. He didn't change any boot priority.
The drive was formatted right before the installation in the windows install menu.
outunderthestars
Banned
OK. I have made to decision to jump to PC gaming.
For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?
I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?
For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?
I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?
ToyMachine228
Member
I'm completely ignorant of the hardware side of computers so forgive me...Will any power supply work with any desktop? My parents have an old tower that is randomly resetting on them. Figured I'd try a new power supply first. It's a pretty old PC. 3.0GHz processor, 1GB of RAM. Probably going to add more RAM at the same time. Thanks in advance for the answer!
Lion Heart
Banned
Are VA monitors shit for gaming? I've been using a 2ms LCD for years and have no idea how an 8ms response time would feel at this point.
The two I'm looking at are Benq VW2420H and the SyncMaster S24A650S (Sammy).
A TN display Im considering is the Asus VS248H-P.
Really though, anything in the $200 range +/- $50 I'll take. There is so many monitors in this range I'm just stepping back for a minute and asking for help.
The two I'm looking at are Benq VW2420H and the SyncMaster S24A650S (Sammy).
A TN display Im considering is the Asus VS248H-P.
Really though, anything in the $200 range +/- $50 I'll take. There is so many monitors in this range I'm just stepping back for a minute and asking for help.
faceless007
Member
OK. I have made to decision to jump to PC gaming.
For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?
I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?
How old? It works fine in most newer (2006+) games, they'll detect it and use matching button prompts, etc. Older games won't recognize the triggers or won't recognize it at all. You need to use a different gamepad for those.
- Status