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I got d 2 tha eepdicked
d-e-e-p-d-i-c-k-e-d (05-26-2012, 04:50 PM)
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#6352
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Member
(05-28-2012, 05:37 PM)
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#6355
I agree. It is much more of a promotional stunt now. "Drive this Nissan. See what great Nissans there are. Nissan innovation for all. Nissan."
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(05-28-2012, 05:40 PM)
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#6356
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(05-28-2012, 10:48 PM)
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#6360
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(05-29-2012, 12:01 AM)
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#6362
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aka andydumi
(05-29-2012, 02:14 AM)
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#6363
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Member
(05-31-2012, 12:36 PM)
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#6364
So I posted some questions in the GT5 racing league thread and was directed over to here. I got some great answers over there, and after logging a few hours with my new "tips", I've decided I have a few more.
A little background, I'm completely new to the game. I bought Real Racing 2 when I first bought my iPad 2 and played it a bunch...When it went on sale for the iPhone, I grabbed it there as well. I've put in a good chunk of hours and have been itching for more. Living in Indy, the 500 was this past weekend and I got even MORE intrigued. I'm not a race fan, but something about racing sims grabs my interest. Enter GT5. I'm starting to get a feel for the physics a bit more, but I'm still shaky. I imagine with time I'll get it. I'm using a controller (as I really cannot justify a wheel right now, especially since it's so new to me), but given my low level of skill, I can't imagine this is a huge issue. Per someone's suggestion, I've decided to race MT with no assists (except TCS at default and ABS at 1). I've turned off the racing line as well. I decided to try the first A-Spec event (Summer something or other). When I did it with AT without touching ANY of the options (so whatever was on when you first boot the game up was active), and I got second. After playing with everything and switching to MT, I was having a hard time placing above 5th. I managed a 1st place finish once, but I'm not sure HOW. Can someone give me some tips on driving and corning with MT? Really anything would help - a tutorial video, tips and tricks sections, etc. I enjoy it when I do it well, and it feels like I have a lot of control, but it's VERY difficult to grasp given my COMPLETE lack of knowledge about cars and racing as a whole. I appreciate the help! |
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Member
(05-31-2012, 12:49 PM)
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#6365
The racing school videos from iracing are pretty good and cover the basics (racing line, cornering, downshifting, etc). It's not GT5 but the same principles will apply for any decent racing simulation, so I think it can improve your GT5 experience.
That's the link to the first video on youtube, you'll easily find the rest. |
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Member
(05-31-2012, 12:53 PM)
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#6366
Back again...
More manual transmissions it is all about timing and listening for the auditory ques. The goal with switching gears manually is to keep the cars RPM (engine speed) at the optimal point for a given situation. Your car does not produce its max HP 100% of the time. It only produces a certain amount at each RPM. Hence when you see car stats 300hp @ 7200rpm. In order to use the car's maximum potential you want to keep the revs as close to the point as possible (most of the time). Going 20mph in 6th gear is going to be really slow. Trying to go 60mph in 1st gear is also not going to work. Start off by holding the brake and reving your car. Listen to what the car sounds like when it reaches max RPM. When it starts banging off the limitor (baaa babaaa babaa) that is past your up shift point. You can use the in game HUD to help you with this. Look for either the rev meeter or the gear number. When the rev bar gets red and the red light illuminates next to the gear number, it is time to shift. Learn with the audio first. Down shifting is a little trickier. Like I said, 20mph in 6th gear is no fun. When you are braking you do not want to just bang down the gears right away. In order to go to a lower gear, the car has to slow down (less stress on the engine). This is just something you will have to learn. Listen to the car. If it is not making a noise (low revs) chances are you should down shift. If the engine is quite loud, then it is not yet time to down shift. Keep the car in the right gear will also let you drive the car through the corner better. Being in too high a gear will cause the car to plow or not turn. This is understeer. Being in too low a gear will cause the car to jolt and loose balance. In rear wheel drive, high power cars this can cause the car to spin. Again, it is all about listening. Check out this video and observe when the driver shifts gears in relation to his engines sound (RPM). |
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Member
(05-31-2012, 01:05 PM)
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#6367
Manual gears and no assists is definitely the way to go. There are many guides out there about racing lines and so on, but I know from a few friends that the switch from automatic to manual gears can be daunting so here's a few tips I would give:
Turn off any music you have playing so you can hear the engine. Don't look at the rev counter (really, turn it off if you can), try to listen to the pitch of the engine, when it's high pitched, change up, when it's low pitched, change down (admittedly some engines are easier to do this with than others). Only ever change down (or up) one gear at a time so accelerating is: Low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> etc. And decelerating is: High pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> high pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> etc. Initially don't worry if you're hitting optimum revs, just practice. Then more practice, followed with some good practice. Pick a simple track to start with (Tsukuba) then as you get confident move on to more complex tracks. After a while you'll be changing gears without thinking. At which point you can start checking the rev counter to get your upshifts perfect (~the red line). EDIT: Or what he said ^ :)
Last edited by ruttyboy; 05-31-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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Junior Member
(05-31-2012, 04:28 PM)
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#6368
I wouldn't turn off the rev meter myself. Getting the most revs from every gear is a secondary importance of using manual, the most most important reason is because it ensures you're thinking about your speed in every corner. That's what you need to practice most. For every corner you should be thinking what gear and what speed can I take this corner at, and when you mess up you just adjust for the next time around. You'll know you got the hang off it when you start thinking, "Damn, I took that corner 5mph slower then I could have, maybe I should stay in 4th and try taking more speed through it."
You should use the practice area too, racing with other cars around you isn't going to help. Pick a mid-range car (~250hp) and I track you like and practice there. |
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Member
(05-31-2012, 07:34 PM)
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#6369
The data logger can be kind of intimidating if you're not used to looking at one so no need to right away, just thought I would throw it in there for something to look into in the future. (Plus you get an easy trophy the first time you use it, lol).
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Member
(05-31-2012, 07:45 PM)
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#6370
Like learning in a real car, you first get used to things like clutch control until it's second nature before worrying about traffic flow and more advanced stuff. |
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Member
(05-31-2012, 11:51 PM)
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Toyota working on Playstation-compatible track day black box for Scion FR-S
#6371
Link
Quote:
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Member
(06-01-2012, 09:03 AM)
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#6375
At least it's not Cote D'Azur... I had to give Cameron Diaz (my driver) a bloody 2J fan car and she still only won because the guys in 1st and 2nd were just as shit and piled into the barriers on the last corner.
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Member
(06-01-2012, 10:12 AM)
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#6376
Quote:
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Member
(06-01-2012, 10:26 AM)
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#6377
You forgot this one > most important of all you've *mentioned* :D
- Option to Change Oil has been added to Pre-Race/Tune Car options in both Career and Online And for this one:
Quote:
GT40'69 > Lv 17 ticket Chaparral 2D > Lv 21 ticket Chaparral 2J > Level 23 Ticket I guess many could send you those tickets and then it is just only "rinse-and-repeat" procedure. |
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Member
(06-01-2012, 02:30 PM)
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#6379
Nice little update there.
First time posting in here; I recently got myself a G27. For fellow G27 users, are there any tweaks/extra calibrations that can be done to better the overall experience of the wheel? For example, I had read somewhere to properly 'calibrate' the pedals, it is recommended to start a race, pump the gas and brake pedals so that the game can properly register the 'start' and 'end' point of the pedals, once done exit the race. All of the following races will have the proper 'pedal adjustments', is there any truth to this? What about steering sensitivity? I find lowering the sensitivity helps, especially on higher PP cars, but I have heard otherwise. I been racing with the DS3 since the release of GT5 so it's like I got to 're-learn' GT5 all over again lol. |
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Member
(06-01-2012, 05:06 PM)
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#6381
I knew I wasn't just seeing things from GT academy. The car cockpit is brighter. Namely, the instrument panel is actually quite readable in daytime now. Now, it might be placebo but the physics seems tweaked (feels like gt academy). Even more crazy, and probably not true, is that I think the game looks sharper. Am I crazy?
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Member
(06-01-2012, 05:09 PM)
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#6382
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(06-01-2012, 06:40 PM)
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#6386
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Member
(06-04-2012, 02:13 AM)
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#6389
Is it ok to brake while cornering, or is it better to do all my braking before I enter? And when should I start accelerating out of a corner? I turned on the racing line to get a feel for speed through corners (since it helps a bit for a complete noob), and it's helping, but I'm trying to get a feel for it still on harder corners.
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Member
(06-04-2012, 02:51 AM)
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#6390
Brake for the corner, feather the gas through the corner and one the car is straight, give it more gas. But never slam on the gas or you will end up in the grass/sand. Just keep trying different things out, GT does a good job at teaching you. Have you done some of the license tests? They are annoying but believe it or not they do teach you. |
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Member
(06-04-2012, 02:52 AM)
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#6391
BTW. I have done this before. If you want you can send me a PSN request (thepatriots) and I can give you some driving lessons in my lounge (private online room). It helps if you have a mic but if you don't it is no big deal. |
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Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
(06-04-2012, 03:08 AM)
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#6392
Didn't know there was an actual replica of it until coming across this on the Top Gear UK subreddit.
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Member
(06-04-2012, 03:28 AM)
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#6393
I had to buy a car for the FF drive train A-Spec event. Turns out the car was MUCH better than what I was driving before (some entry level used Miata). I went back and crushed the first event I couldn't take first in and proceeded to take first in the three races for the FF event. Either the car is that much better, or watching the iRacing Racing School videos helped. I think turning on the drive line added something, too...Knowing when to brake is something I still don't have a feel for. It's tough to get a sense of how much the car can really handle. It also helps because I can get an idea of when to downshift as I approach corners, too. There's a LOT to learn, but you gotta start somewhere I guess. Three other questions... 1) When shopping for cars, why do some have (what appears to be) a little red circle in the upper left corner of the mini picture? It looks like the DLC icon on the main screen, but I can't tell... 3) Is the DLC actually worth it for this game? I'm going to be picking up the XL edition relatively soon (as I need to return the copy I'm using to my friend eventually), and I want to know which one I should buy. 2) I may investigate getting a wheel if I find myself still hooked in about 30 days. I need to make sure I REALLY enjoy it before dropping money on one. Is there one that is considered good for entry level/lower cost without skimping on quality too much? Thanks again for the help. :) |
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Member
(06-04-2012, 04:53 AM)
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#6394
For braking the driving line is not all that accurate. Use it for positioning your car on the track. It fudges many braking points. Try doing a couple of safe laps (ie braking early) then slowly increase your pace.
In regards to a FFB wheel. You have 2 low price options. The logitech Driving Force GT is the entry level wheel. That is around $100 iirc. The wheel is pretty good but the pedals leave much to be desired. Then there is the logitech g27. The g27 is about $200-300. It is probably the best bang for the buck wheel on the market. Google both of them and do a little research to find out which is best for you. IMO the G27 is worth the extra cash. |
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(06-04-2012, 10:24 PM)
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#6396
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Member
(06-05-2012, 05:28 PM)
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#6398
So I bought XL Edition and LOVE it. It gave me some new cars to work with, which is always nice. I also started doing the Seasonal Events for stupid amounts of money (at 170% boost, too).
My question is, am I supposed to have an unfairly difficult time winning? I can't get higher than 6th in the Daytona 430PP event, and there's another race in there that I simply can't catch first. I finished 30+ seconds behind the leader. @paskowitz I'm hoping to get myself a headset so I can jump on and work with you a bit. I saw your message from yesterday (which I totally missed). I should have some free time to practice and work with you some in the next few days. |
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(06-05-2012, 05:46 PM)
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#6399
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Member
(06-05-2012, 06:02 PM)
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#6400
Off the top of my head, I couldn't tell you. But I know it came with the XL Edition. I think it's the only car that meets the requirements of the event. I'll check after work, though.
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