|
|
|
Member
(08-11-2012, 01:55 PM)
|
So guys, I picked up a basically new Minolta Data memory Back DM-9, and a Quartz Data Back QD-9 (Found some of these for sale in South Korea for 80$). Im having trouble finding an average price for them. Anyone have a recent resource listing prices?
Also picked upa Vertical Control Grip VC-9, but there are a few of those on ebay :)
Last edited by Borman; 08-11-2012 at 03:38 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-11-2012, 05:59 PM)
|
I'm planning to purchase either a Canon T3i, Panasonic GH2, or Canon 5D Mark II, which I will primarily use for video. The T3i is very appealing because I can afford it immediately and still have enough money for one or two nice lenses (plus other video-related equipment), but I often see the ($130 more expensive) GH2 recommended for video instead of the T3i (no moire), and although I understand the superiority of the 5D Mk II vs the T3i with photos I don't know if it's worth the significantly more expensive price in regard to video (plus it doesn't have swivel screen).
Can anyone that has experience with two or more of these cameras offer any advice?
Last edited by dehydratedbabies; 08-11-2012 at 06:14 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-11-2012, 07:40 PM)
|
I also played wity an NEX7, the processing time after every shot is insanely long. I am talking about in 5 second neighborhood. I don't know if that display model is busted. |
|
Member
(08-11-2012, 07:44 PM)
|
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-11-2012, 08:00 PM)
|
I don't know if the T3 can use magic lantern. That's worth looking into. The moire issues with Canons DSLRs are frustrating. I haven't seen GH2 video so I can't speak for it. The only Canon camera I've seen without moire problems in video is the 5DMkIII, but that's probably way out of your price range. |
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 05:02 AM)
|
This one? About 50 bux.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-Maxx...item41669cc9ca |
|
MrArseFace
(08-12-2012, 07:30 AM)
|
How bad is moire and can it be post processed out? Can't be that bad if so many people are using 5Ds |
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 07:44 AM)
|
The 5DmkII is full frame, which makes a pretty significant difference. The moire 'issue' is bad. Best way to deal with it is to avoid it; don't shoot stripes, don't shoot brick walls, etc. There are color banding problems with DSLR footage sometimes as well, but moire is probably the most obvious visual disturbance (outside of, maybe, rolling shutter artifacts). If there is an easy way to deal with moire in post, I don't know about it. I think there was a tutorial on Philip Bloom's blog months ago, and I'm sure there are other resources available, but I don't think it is something that can be remedied 100%. The reason so many people are using 5Ds is the same reason so many people are using any other DSLR for video --- their footage looks fucking incredible! No visual problem can really overshadow the sheer quality of what you can get from these relatively cheap cameras. Sure they have issues, and if you're trying to get something easy-to-use a dedicated video camera is a better bet, but if you want something that looks great, go DSLR. You can't swap out lenses on most dedicated video cameras. You can't get the same type of range, or DoF, or small form factor, or low-light performance. The images you get when you are properly using a DSLR for video can be astounding, but they aren't without their downsides. Limited sound recording ability, often without headphone jacks; caps on clip sizes/recording length; lenses typically designed for AF, not MF; lack of built-in IS; no built-in NDs; etc. The list goes on. You can't go into it expecting to buy a miracle device. There are lesser mentioned problems you might run into as well... I've seen skipped frames and corrupt clips using a 60D and 5DMkII, even with 30+MB/s cards, I've had my 7D just shit on entire takes for no apparent reason ("cannot be played back"), the only readily available option being an expensive service by aeroquartet, even tonight I ran into repeated overheating shut downs of my camera while on a 40 minute shoot.
Last edited by Crunched; 08-12-2012 at 07:55 AM.
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 08:18 AM)
|
You're probably right. It's been a while since I've used a MkII but that sounds right now that you say it.
|
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 12:12 PM)
|
Hi guys, I need some newb friendly DSLR advice.
I'm looking to buy a nice DSLR camera. The main use of the camera will be to make videos, but making awesome photo's will be great too. Two of my friends got a Canon 550D, or the T2i (I think). These look great and they also recommend me to buy this one. However I was looking around and saw the Canon 600D, or the T3i. This one kinda looks better to me because of the flip out screen and it's only about 40-50 euros more. But I also asked my parents for advice because my mother is a (semi)professional photographer, with her crazy 7000 euro camera. They recommend me to get the Canon 650D, or T4i, because 'it's newer so it's better. It also has more of a focus on filming.' This camera is however a lot more expensive, as it will probably cost me around 150-170 more than the T3i. So what would GAF recommend to someone who primarily wants to film but also want to make photographs? Oh and I never had a camera before so I'm completely new to this. Thanks! |
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 02:27 PM)
|
One advantage worth considering for the 5D MkII over their consumer level cameras is the ability to choose intermediate ISOs for video (ie 125, 160, 250, 320, etc as well as the usual 100, 200, 400, etc). When you're shooting video you have a fixed shutter speed (half the framerate, usually), and you usually choose aperture based on depth-of-field considerations, which means you mostly have to use ISO and ND filters to get exposure right. Having smaller granularity to your ISO choice makes this quite a bit easier. It's not a deal-breaker by any means, but I figured I'd mention it as it's usually not covered in reviews.
Also, the 550D doesn't have any manual audio controls while shooting video. I'm pretty sure the 650D does, but I'm not sure about the 600D (worth checking). If you want to do on-camera audio recording, manual audio controls are pretty essential. 20*30mm? Printing some postage stamps? |
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 06:46 PM)
|
The T3i can use Magic Lantern, although apparently there are some limitations with headphones and external mics.
The fourth camera that looks very appealing to me is the Sony NEX-VG20 thanks to its interchangeable lens: ![]() However, it too is much more expensive than the T3i and GH2 ($1,600).
Last edited by dehydratedbabies; 08-12-2012 at 06:48 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 07:00 PM)
|
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 09:54 PM)
|
Is there a way to check AF points in software during post? I'd like to share some pictures to illustrate my problems, but they're useless if I can't show where focus should have been.
Last edited by Crunched; 08-12-2012 at 10:04 PM.
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 10:10 PM)
|
I am pretty sure in my case it is a problem with the camera. It's never focused properly, since day 1, and for months I tried to figure out what I was doing wrong. I always focused manually in school (film production major) and had no problems getting sharp focus, but this little camera had me stumped. I've had it about two years now and I'm still having the same problems I had at the start, which leads me to believe it is a hardware problem. That said, there are clearly people who get great results from it. I don't know if the problems are from a batch of bad cameras, or user incompetence, or a mixture of both. I know the 7D in particular has attracted a lot of people new to DSLRs (myself included), so there is likely an element of user error amidst some of the outcry.
Last edited by Crunched; 08-12-2012 at 10:13 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 10:27 PM)
|
I don't know if this is new, or news to anybody but B&H is blowing out used and refurbished Nikon DSLRs (high-end and low-end) and Nikon 1 cameras. Deals like the D300 for $500 and what not. If you are looking for any used/refurb camera body deals, then you should definitely check it out.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...O=&srtclk=sort |
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 10:44 PM)
|
I been looking at both 7D and Mkii bodies I believe my wide lense is EF so it should work for FF I need to check if my sigma 24-70 would work on ff or that would make the point kinda moot for now. |
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 10:47 PM)
|
I prefer manually focusing in most cases anyway. I do it out of habit. I would need to pay at least the cost of shipping, plus, I assume, repairs. But anyway: if you are considering a 7D, I think it is a great camera regardless of my AF problems. I would recommend it. I actually prefer its design over the 5DMkII. The MkIII on the other hand...
Last edited by Crunched; 08-12-2012 at 10:50 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 11:39 PM)
|
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-12-2012, 11:42 PM)
|
Yes.
Shots aren't consistently out of focus. I would say it is about 15-20% spot on, 20% completely off, totally unusable, and the rest somewhere in between, not as sharp as they should be. Though I will say this: I updated to 2.0 two days ago and since then I've been having much, much better luck with AF. I haven't really tested it yet to see if it's just my mind playing tricks on me, but it seems like the ratio of hits to misses has gone up. I didn't read anything about AF changes in the firmware notes so I hesitate to say it's been fixed.
Last edited by Crunched; 08-12-2012 at 11:50 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-12-2012, 11:46 PM)
|
On my 50D my most used focus mode is center spot focus and then recomposing as needed, I been reading some about it and there seem to be some confusion as to the right way to use the focus modes, guess a good read of the manual may help unless is a fubar body apparently
|
|
Member
(08-13-2012, 02:01 AM)
|
Now that you have 2.0.0, check to see if your AF microadjustment data has been reset. |
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-13-2012, 02:06 AM)
|
I didn't test microadjustments at different distances, only at about ten feet. I haven't kept extensive records of when I get accurate AF, but I've noticed the camera has an easier time nailing focus within that ten foot range. When you go beyond that, it's a dice roll. Focus confirm is terrible though. I don't think I've ever had a single good result from that. Here is a slight example using focus confirm. Top pic was taken at the flash of a focus light, second one I ignored the light and used my own judgment: The focus point that lit up was right on the baby's eyes. Is there a way to check where the FC light flashed using photoshop or something?
Last edited by Crunched; 08-13-2012 at 02:27 AM.
|
|
Member
(08-13-2012, 05:42 AM)
|
Microadjustment can help narrowing the build quality tolerance between lens and body but there is plenty of room for other types of errors. I have a lens that I had a lot of problems with for a while until I finally realize it is pretty much doing what it is supposed to do but just not matching my expectations. You really have to do a lot of tests to narrow down the issue.
Last edited by RuGalz; 08-13-2012 at 06:35 AM.
|
|
point your penis at me,
and have a good day (08-13-2012, 11:47 AM)
|
|
|
Member
(08-13-2012, 12:34 PM)
|
The biggest problem for me is that AF system picks the point not where I think it is because AF area is pretty big -- larger than the red dots. Also, another thing I found during my tests is that I thought I was taking shots as soon as I see the confirmation, by the time the confirmation is displayed until my body reacts to it, my hand had already turned the focus ring too far. For me, I use the confirmation to tell me that I'm within the range then I adjust it as needed, especially when DOF is shallow; hence, I don't buy AF lenses that do not have quick shift feature (not sure what they call it for Canon but the lens with such feature allows you to manual adjust after AF system does its work without having to switch over to MF). Edit: One quick test you should do is take a sheet of white paper and put a black dot on it. Then, under good light condition, pick a AF point on the camera and see within what area around that point the camera is able to obtain focus. Then you know in the future that anything within that area could be considered as the focus point for the camera.
Last edited by RuGalz; 08-13-2012 at 04:58 PM.
|
|
Member
(08-13-2012, 06:10 PM)
|
The action on mine is instant.
Quote:
I probably wont be risking a flash on the NEX7. |
|
there is joy in sucking dick
(08-13-2012, 06:20 PM)
|
Read earlier that they could possibly get 48Mbit 1080p video (even the old NEX5). Wow. That would remove the IQ advantage the GH2 has over the NEX series in regards to compression. I'd love to see what an uncompressed video looks like from a NEX or even the 5DMKII. This shit should be standard but I understand they have dedicated video products to protect.
|
|
purveyor and connoisseur
of fine gaming specimens (08-13-2012, 07:35 PM)
|
It's also discontinued, and rumors say a new model (like an X200) will be announced soon. |
|
Member
(08-13-2012, 11:26 PM)
|
Maybe in Canon's DPP? Exif data perhaps? |
|
Member
(08-14-2012, 06:11 AM)
|
http://www.youtube.com/user/indigodvsk |