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nekkid
It doesn't matter who we are, what matters is our plan.
(03-19-2017, 05:10 PM)
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Originally Posted by Clockwork

Yes.

Dolby Digital or DTS. Not PCM. PCM is limited to stereo.

Cool, thanks. That'll serve my old optical-only amp quite well.

Need to research a new sound system, but that's for another thread.
Rbk_3
Member
(03-19-2017, 05:45 PM)
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Originally Posted by nekkid

Just to confirm, does this TV pass through 5.1 from HDMI to optical out?

I was also under the impression that this was quite rare.

Rtings tests which TVs can pass 5.1. Most new TVs can.

http://ca.rtings.com/tv/tests/inputs...io-passthrough
hlhbk
Member
(03-20-2017, 07:25 AM)
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Originally Posted by Rbk_3

What software?

It depends on your sound card.
nekkid
It doesn't matter who we are, what matters is our plan.
(03-20-2017, 08:43 AM)
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So now mine is mounted on the wall, I'm looking to see if other people have set up a rear glow solution a la Philips?

I've seen really cool dynamic ones built using a Raspberry Pi (which sounds like a great project if you have time), but didn't know if there were any OOTB kits?

Either that or has anyone added a static rear glow, and how does it look?
laxu
Member
(03-20-2017, 10:21 AM)
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Originally Posted by nekkid

So now mine is mounted on the wall, I'm looking to see if other people have set up a rear glow solution a la Philips?

I've seen really cool dynamic ones built using a Raspberry Pi (which sounds like a great project if you have time), but didn't know if there were any OOTB kits?

Either that or has anyone added a static rear glow, and how does it look?

I have used some warm white IKEA led strips on the back of my TVs for years and I like it. I feel it makes the picture nicer to watch. The multicolor IKEA ones are far worse as they have a very cold white color.

Obviously the ones that change color depending on the content are nicer but afaik pretty expensive and you run into issues like finding a device that can split the signal and pass through 4K @ 60 Hz + HDR + HDCP 2.2 without adding input lag. I really wish manufacturers just licensed the tech from Philips and had it as a feature on every TV.

Until then I'll probably be sticking with the cheap IKEA solution.
nekkid
It doesn't matter who we are, what matters is our plan.
(03-20-2017, 10:26 AM)
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Originally Posted by laxu

I have used some warm white IKEA led strips on the back of my TVs for years and I like it. I feel it makes the picture nicer to watch. The multicolor IKEA ones are far worse as they have a very cold white color.

Obviously the ones that change color depending on the content are nicer but afaik pretty expensive and you run into issues like finding a device that can split the signal and pass through 4K @ 60 Hz + HDR + HDCP 2.2 without adding input lag. I really wish manufacturers just licensed the tech from Philips and had it as a feature on every TV.

Until then I'll probably be sticking with the cheap IKEA solution.

That's great info, thank you. Also good to know that warm white works better than cool white, so I'll just look at getting some of those and powering from the USB port.
laxu
Member
(03-20-2017, 10:39 AM)
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Originally Posted by nekkid

That's great info, thank you. Also good to know that warm white works better than cool white, so I'll just look at getting some of those and powering from the USB port.

I'd say the warm white I have is closer to neutral white (think of a light bulb that is just a tiny bit yellowish tint) whereas the multicolor ones have a much colder color temperature.
nekkid
It doesn't matter who we are, what matters is our plan.
(03-20-2017, 12:20 PM)
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Originally Posted by laxu

I'd say the warm white I have is closer to neutral white (think of a light bulb that is just a tiny bit yellowish tint) whereas the multicolor ones have a much colder color temperature.

I'll have to try out some of the multicolour ones. I do like the idea of changing to whatever I want, but as you say, those cool whites can be quite harsh.
laxu
Member
(03-20-2017, 01:14 PM)
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Originally Posted by nekkid

I'll have to try out some of the multicolour ones. I do like the idea of changing to whatever I want, but as you say, those cool whites can be quite harsh.

As did I but I quickly figured out that for a static glow light only the warm white looks good.
h3ro
Member
(03-20-2017, 02:19 PM)
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For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.
Syrus
Member
(03-20-2017, 02:52 PM)
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Anyone here play Mass Effect trial?? Does the picture start bright but dim on the loading screen after dying?

All eco is off and it does it on movie , stabdard and game settings.

Never does this anywhere else though
JMY86
Member
(03-20-2017, 03:00 PM)
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Originally Posted by Syrus

Anyone here play Mass Effect trial?? Does the picture start bright but dim on the loading screen after dying?

All eco is off and it does it on movie , stabdard and game settings.

Never does this anywhere else though

Yeah my game did this as well, it would get dimmer on the load screen when the bar reached around 75%. I tried fiddling around with the settings but it made no difference. Could maybe be a bug with the game HDR.
family_guy
Member
(03-20-2017, 03:04 PM)

Originally Posted by h3ro

For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.

I left it at automatic on both the TV and PS4. Not sure if that's optimal, but I have no complaints so far.
georaldc
Member
(03-20-2017, 03:59 PM)
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Originally Posted by h3ro

For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.

Automatic should work as long as you don't touch the settings again to check. I remember it (not sure if it's the PS4's fault, or the TV) losing auto detection when doing that.
Syrus
Member
(03-20-2017, 04:13 PM)
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Originally Posted by JMY86

Yeah my game did this as well, it would get dimmer on the load screen when the bar reached around 75%. I tried fiddling around with the settings but it made no difference. Could maybe be a bug with the game HDR.


Ya it seems the load screen drops HDR right before finishing. Glad its not just me
philm87
Member
(03-20-2017, 04:28 PM)

Originally Posted by h3ro

For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.

I'd recommend full on the PS4 and HDMI black level as normal on the TV. This doesn't make a difference with HDR though. If the colours look a bit washed out, try sticking the colour level up to 60.

Remember to fiddle with the brightness also as that effects black levels.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
(03-20-2017, 04:37 PM)

Originally Posted by Clockwork

You haven't come across many TV's then, have you?

I've been around this thread from the beginning and I've seen you post on and off but boy can you be so abrasive. Little quips, rarely of value and very irritating.
Baro
Junior Member
(03-20-2017, 04:43 PM)

Originally Posted by h3ro

For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.

I tried using auto on both but I realized that something wasn't right, especially on HDR. Since then Ive chosen Full on ps4 and normal on TV and it works great.
Lima
Member
(03-20-2017, 05:01 PM)
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Originally Posted by h3ro

For those using a regular PS4 with this TV, what setting do you use for the console/TV HDMI level/RGB? Full or Limited?

I split my time playing FFXV on this set and on a Pannasonic VT60, so I love the HDR but I get the feeling my black levels are not correct.

Same as on your plasma. Either limited/normal or full/full.

Samsung just used other words. Limited/low or full/normal should be the combinations.

Do keep in mind that the Pana plasma will still shit all over the blacks the Samsung can produce.
Lacix
Member
(03-20-2017, 05:14 PM)

Originally Posted by philm87

I'd recommend full on the PS4 and HDMI black level as normal on the TV. This doesn't make a difference with HDR though. If the colours look a bit washed out, try sticking the colour level up to 60.

Remember to fiddle with the brightness also as that effects black levels.

Full/Normal is the only combination acceptable for me with my Samsung 49KS7000.

Limited/Low or Auto gives me same black/white crush in HDR mode.

I know DVDs and Blu-rays are supposed to be coded in limited rgb but it seems to me that the PS4 "upscales" the color range when using Full/Normal. So no problem there I think.
mckmas8808
Sony is POO
(03-20-2017, 05:15 PM)
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Originally Posted by reektann

I've started to notice that anything running HDR on the 8000 looks oddly dim. Horizon Zero Dawn as an example. When you speak to somebody at night you see the panel almost dim as it focuses on the main character.

Read up a bit and saw somebody mention there is some sort of dimming effect you can't disable in HDR? A few people on the Samsung forums seemingly get round it with dynamic contrast on medium solely for HDR.

Anyone else seeing this? It's not the end of the world - just looks like there is a layer of dimness over the top.

That's the game! It's not your TV. It does it on my TV too and I don't have 4k nor HDR.
AndyD
aka andydumi
(03-20-2017, 05:22 PM)
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So are people using the breakout box or the main inputs on the back?

Can you use a mixture? I am thinking do I put the Chromecast on the back or on the box.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
(03-20-2017, 05:38 PM)
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Originally Posted by AndyD

So are people using the breakout box or the main inputs on the back?

Can you use a mixture? I am thinking do I put the Chromecast on the back or on the box.

The only inputs on the back are USB, ex-link, ethernet, and One Connect box.
JetSetRadio
Banned
(03-20-2017, 07:45 PM)
Just noticed when I turn on/off my desk lamp the sound drops for a second and I get image distortion. What the fuck??
hlhbk
Member
(03-21-2017, 12:07 AM)
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Originally Posted by JetSetRadio

Just noticed when I turn on/off my desk lamp the sound drops for a second and I get image distortion. What the fuck??

Sounds like some bad power wiring in your home.
lowhighkang_LHK
Member
(03-21-2017, 12:12 AM)
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Originally Posted by reektann

I've started to notice that anything running HDR on the 8000 looks oddly dim. Horizon Zero Dawn as an example. When you speak to somebody at night you see the panel almost dim as it focuses on the main character.

Read up a bit and saw somebody mention there is some sort of dimming effect you can't disable in HDR? A few people on the Samsung forums seemingly get round it with dynamic contrast on medium solely for HDR.

Anyone else seeing this? It's not the end of the world - just looks like there is a layer of dimness over the top.

Did you turn UHD Color On for all associated HDMI inputs?
JMY86
Member
(03-21-2017, 12:20 AM)
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Originally Posted by Syrus

Ya it seems the load screen drops HDR right before finishing. Glad its not just me

It must be a bug the PC and Xbox One versions both do this. I tried them both and the same thing happened each time.
Mitochondrion
Member
(03-21-2017, 12:41 AM)
Random question. Does anybody know what the letter S stand for in SUHD? I know UHD stands for Ultra High Definition.
Norci7
Member
(03-21-2017, 12:46 AM)
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Originally Posted by Mitochondrion

Random question. Does anybody know what the letter S stand for in SUHD? I know UHD stands for Ultra High Definition.

It doesn't stand for a specific word, the "S" is simply an identification for Samsung's flagship televisions.
meltingparappa
Member
(03-21-2017, 02:43 AM)
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Whelp.

Out of nowhere, my tv no longer seems like it connects to my receiver.

More specifically, I'm sending audio back via ARC, and have enjoyed being able to control my receiver using the tv's remote.

Now the tv will not recognize that a receiver is connected, or if it does, I get no audio and pressing the volume buttons won't change anything on the receiver.

I tried turning off anynet and turning it back on, plus cycling my tv and receiver a million times. Has this happened to anyone else?
JetSetRadio
Banned
(03-21-2017, 08:37 PM)

Originally Posted by hlhbk

Sounds like some bad power wiring in your home.

Hmm, must be the lamp, it fell on the floor a while ago but is supposed to be fixed. Should I get rid of it? I don't want to risk anything.
Bastard cost more than a ps pro. :(
R-User!
Member
(03-21-2017, 09:47 PM)
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Originally Posted by meltingparappa

Whelp.

Out of nowhere, my tv no longer seems like it connects to my receiver.

More specifically, I'm sending audio back via ARC, and have enjoyed being able to control my receiver using the tv's remote.

Now the tv will not recognize that a receiver is connected, or if it does, I get no audio and pressing the volume buttons won't change anything on the receiver.

I tried turning off anynet and turning it back on, plus cycling my tv and receiver a million times. Has this happened to anyone else?

Sort of...

Without fully explaining right now, there is a pairing process that you initially do with the reciever, remote and TV to set the TV remote to control other devices; you may want to try to erase the setting that is associated with your reciever and re-pair the reciever to the remote.

I'll look later and post some more details when I can.
Last edited by R-User!; 03-21-2017 at 09:50 PM.
georaldc
Member
(03-21-2017, 11:28 PM)
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Originally Posted by Mitochondrion

Random question. Does anybody know what the letter S stand for in SUHD? I know UHD stands for Ultra High Definition.

Probably something cheesy like "Super" or "Supreme"
SephCast
Brotherhood of Shipley's
(03-22-2017, 12:23 AM)
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Is there a 2017 version of this TV? Just wondering. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 60", but just seeing my options.
breander
Junior Member
(03-22-2017, 12:28 AM)
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Originally Posted by meltingparappa

Whelp.

Out of nowhere, my tv no longer seems like it connects to my receiver.

More specifically, I'm sending audio back via ARC, and have enjoyed being able to control my receiver using the tv's remote.

Now the tv will not recognize that a receiver is connected, or if it does, I get no audio and pressing the volume buttons won't change anything on the receiver.

I tried turning off anynet and turning it back on, plus cycling my tv and receiver a million times. Has this happened to anyone else?

This has happened to me a few times. The only solution I have found is to unplug the power to everything for a few mins then plug back in. It's super annoying. I found this happened a lot when I have my PS VR box plugged in. Then I noticed it happening a lot when I got my Switch.
Heel
Member
(03-22-2017, 12:29 AM)
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Originally Posted by SephCast

Is there a 2017 version of this TV? Just wondering. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 60", but just seeing my options.

MU8000 is very likely a refreshed 2017 model of the KS8000. Waiting on reviews to confirm and see if there's any differences, good or bad.
Chamber
love on your sleeve
(03-22-2017, 12:30 AM)
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Originally Posted by SephCast

Is there a 2017 version of this TV? Just wondering. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 60", but just seeing my options.

The MU8000 is the 2017 version but it doesn't come in 60". I still think the KS8000 is the better buy given how often you can find it on sale now.
SephCast
Brotherhood of Shipley's
(03-22-2017, 12:33 AM)
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Originally Posted by Chamber

The MU8000 is the 2017 version but it doesn't come in 60". I still think the KS8000 is the better buy given how often you can find it on sale now.

Originally Posted by Heel

MU8000 is very likely a refreshed 2017 model of the KS8000. Waiting on reviews to confirm and see if there's any differences, good or bad.

Thanks. Likely going to go with the KS8000!
Heel
Member
(03-22-2017, 12:34 AM)
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Rtings already has an MU8000 in hand, so it shouldn't be too much longer to have a review.

Grinchy
Member
(03-22-2017, 01:11 AM)
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I checked out my brother's 8500 today and holy shit it looks amazing. I'm still using a samsung that I bought back in 2009, so this TV just feels like something that an advanced alien civilization would use in comparison.
philm87
Member
(03-22-2017, 08:23 AM)

Originally Posted by Mitochondrion

Random question. Does anybody know what the letter S stand for in SUHD? I know UHD stands for Ultra High Definition.

The S stands for sexy. But you already knew this deep down.
PodcastFips
Member
(03-22-2017, 08:29 AM)
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Originally Posted by Grinchy

I checked out my brother's 8500 today and holy shit it looks amazing. I'm still using a samsung that I bought back in 2009, so this TV just feels like something that an advanced alien civilization would use in comparison.

I was in the same situation, my 2009 Samsung felt like a PC from the early 2000s.
Yoday
Member
(03-22-2017, 08:59 AM)
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After seeing the 2017 Samsung lineup I'm not terribly impressed. I'm thinking about trying to grab a KS8000 while they can still be had for cheap. I see Best Buy has the 60" for $1200 and 65" for $1550. Is it still recommended to pick up this model? The 60" is kind of my sweet spot for price.
Militaratus
Member
(03-22-2017, 09:01 AM)
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For people who have Mass Effect Andromeda, what do you have as HDR10 Peak Value? I have it set to the max, but should I set it to where the box just becomes fully white?

I want to get the game to use the TV's peak brightness of 1000 nits that apparently is like looking into the sun when looking into the sun. Or is my settings (I got from rtings) messed up?

I want this kind of viewing experience:

Poppyseed
Member
(03-22-2017, 09:11 AM)

Originally Posted by Yoday

After seeing the 2017 Samsung lineup I'm not terribly impressed. I'm thinking about trying to grab a KS8000 while they can still be had for cheap. I see Best Buy has the 60" for $1200 and 65" for $1550. Is it still recommended to pick up this model? The 60" is kind of my sweet spot for price.

Worth every penny. Yes, there are some software quirks, but for an all-round TV, I don't think you can beat this set for the money.
Lacix
Member
(03-22-2017, 12:40 PM)

Originally Posted by Militaratus

For people who have Mass Effect Andromeda, what do you have as HDR10 Peak Value? I have it set to the max, but should I set it to where the box just becomes fully white?

I want to get the game to use the TV's peak brightness of 1000 nits that apparently is like looking into the sun when looking into the sun. Or is my settings (I got from rtings) messed up?

I want this kind of viewing experience:

I think you won't get the same feeling as looking into the sun (which is not advised) but it is possible to get the feeling like looking into a bright lamp.

1000 nits (lux,cd/m2) = 75W conventional light bulb
sun lumens at sea level = 98000 lux
Belker
Member
(03-22-2017, 01:16 PM)

Originally Posted by Lacix

I think you won't get the same feeling as looking into the sun (which is not advised) but it is possible to get the feeling like looking into a bright lamp.

1000 nits (lux,cd/m2) = 75W conventional light bulb
sun lumens at sea level = 98000 lux

Interesting to see those numbers. I play with low lighting in my room and in the brightest scenes - especially pure white backgrounds - the TV is powerful enough to make me squint.

It's impressive, but not particularly pleasant.
Rbk_3
Member
(03-22-2017, 02:42 PM)
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Originally Posted by hlhbk

It depends on your sound card.

Oh, I don't have a sound card. I just output from my video card via HDMI.
AndyD
aka andydumi
(03-22-2017, 03:00 PM)
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Does the KS8000 do a good enough job of upscaling? Am considering buying just a basic $80 BR player vs a $300 4k BR player for now as it'll probably be used just by the kids to watch disney movies.
meltingparappa
Member
(03-22-2017, 03:16 PM)
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Originally Posted by breander

This has happened to me a few times. The only solution I have found is to unplug the power to everything for a few mins then plug back in. It's super annoying. I found this happened a lot when I have my PS VR box plugged in. Then I noticed it happening a lot when I got my Switch.

This actually worked for me!

Or rather, I just turned off the power strip everything was connected to, then turned it back on and everything worked perfectly again.

Thank you for the help! The anxiety of having this trillion dollar setup malfunction has dissipated!

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