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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Slayer-33

Slayer-33

Liverpool-2
I'm selling my 5750 for $50 to my cousin guys...

Best 7850 for the money?


Sapphire OC ed

or

XFX black edition



I really want a lifetime warranty too, :( $300-+ budget.


Or what card should I go for? I intend to play D3/GW2/BF3/DOTA 2, I need a legit solid midrange+ card.


Any recommendations?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
faceless007 said:
Regarding PSUs, is there a significant difference between ATX 2.2 and 2.31? Do I have to 2.31 for a new IB build?
Click to expand...
No
Spirit of Jazz said:
The OC guide doesn't really help with the Asus p8z68-v lx so I've spent the last few hours looking around to try and find out what to do. I think I've manage to get there in the end though I've only just started up prime. If I've got my I5 2500k to:

Core Speed: 4.5
Voltage: 1.288v (jumps to 1.296)
Temp: around 50°C

It it turns out stable it should be safe, right? My main concern is the core speed and voltage jump around a little.
Click to expand...
Good
 
F

Feep

Banned
So the nice graph in that article lists an approximate optimal voltage of 1.22 V for 4.4 GHz, which is cool, but I kind of want to use the offset voltage feature, so it appropriately scales voltage depending on load? The auto voltage was 0.984V, so I thought I could specify an offset voltage of 1.22 - 0.984 = 0.236 V, but when I enter that value in for offset, the number turns red, which apparently means watch the fuck out. 1.22 V standard voltage only gave me a yellow number.

Anyone know how this works?
 
S

Sblargh

Banned
So, my PS3 is getting murdered by the yellow light and I'm thinking of swtiching to full-time PC experience.
Is the Gtx 550 listed on the OP still a good card or is there some game that will laugh at it?
 
P

ParityBit

Member
Hi All,

Quick question. I am working on my machine and I just realized the only fan I actually have plugged into the mobo (for monitoring) is the CPU (H100 ones). but all the rest are plugged into the case itself and into the powersupply.

This normal?
 
S

Spirit of Jazz

Banned
Hazaro said:
Good
Click to expand...

Thank God, I was really worrying about the mobo I bought given the guide in the OP wasn't applicable to it. In the end it was just a matter of understanding how to use the voltage offset and then taking that away for the ridiculously high auto-voltage it gives to a turbo ratio of 45.

Anyway thanks for all your help throughout the build.
 
A

abasm

Member
ParityBit said:
Hi All,

Quick question. I am working on my machine and I just realized the only fan I actually have plugged into the mobo (for monitoring) is the CPU (H100 ones). but all the rest are plugged into the case itself and into the powersupply.

This normal?
Click to expand...

The only benefit of plugging a fan into the mobo is speed monitoring/throttling. If it's plugged into the power supply, it'll just run at full speed all of the time. I would think that it's only a concern if your fans are noisy and you don't want excess noise when your computer is idling.
 
M

MrBig

Member
ParityBit said:
Hi All,

Quick question. I am working on my machine and I just realized the only fan I actually have plugged into the mobo (for monitoring) is the CPU (H100 ones). but all the rest are plugged into the case itself and into the powersupply.

This normal?
Click to expand...

It's fine but you'll want to put them on the mobo to monitor/control them. Otherwise they'll just run at their max rpm.
e: beat
 
F

Feep

Banned
Okay, I think everything with the overclocking went okay. I'm at 4.4 GHz and 1600 MHz memory frequency, 1.200 V.

The only "question mark" I have left is that the CPU is still shown in the UEFI and the OS at 3.5 GHz. The 4.4GHz seems to be for "turbo mode", which I can only assume is kicked up during high load. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

Windows Experience Index CPU performance went from a 7.7 to a 7.8...hooray? = D
 
A

abasm

Member
Feep said:
Okay, I think everything with the overclocking went okay. I'm at 4.4 GHz and 1600 MHz memory frequency, 1.200 V.

The only "question mark" I have left is that the CPU is still shown in the UEFI and the OS at 3.5 GHz. The 4.4GHz seems to be for "turbo mode", which I can only assume is kicked up during high load. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

Windows Experience Index CPU performance went from a 7.7 to a 7.8...hooray? = D
Click to expand...

Does CPU-Z show your computer at ~4400 MHz under load? If so, you're golden.
 
F

Feep

Banned
abasm said:
Does CPU-Z show your computer at ~4400 MHz under load? If so, you're golden.
Click to expand...
What's a good way to get it under load? Transcoding?

Edit: Just grabbed Prime95, core speed ramped to 4.4 GHz no problem. DRAM frequency shows 800 MHz, though, not 1600 MHz? Weird...

More edit: Core 3 just dropped out with an error. Booooooo!

Cores 3 and 4 now out. WHAT DO I DO GAF
 
J

JdFoX187

Banned
I finally got my stereo back from the shop for the first time since I converted my PC into a HTPC with my GTX 680. I have an HDMI cable running to my stereo. Display looks great. Audio is another issue. When I go into my sound settings in the control panel, it shows that I can set up 7.1 speaker audio. But when I try to test that, the audio that should come through the back speakers is all coming from the two front ones. I can't seem to figure it out despite going through and checking the settings to make sure the computer knows it's hooked up to my stereo. Does anyone have any ideas?
 
B

bonesmccoy

Banned
So after reading through this thread at length, I finally made a bunch of purchases and have a new build heading my way. Of course, after ordering, something came up which has forced me to ask the following novice question:

When I made my order, the ASUS P8Z77-V LK wasn't available, so I picked up a LX for roughly $30 less. Now I've tracked down a LK and have the buyer's remorse dilemma.

I'm not an enthusiast - this build will be chiefly for gaming, but I won't be obsessing over running everything at ultra and so forth. Is it worth to grab the LK then? As I understand it, it's real benefit is only for adding a 2nd video card at some point.

I read through Exodus's helpful post, and he mentions that it's not a 'future-proofing' concern - which would pretty much be the only reason I'd be interested.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Feep said:
So the nice graph in that article lists an approximate optimal voltage of 1.22 V for 4.4 GHz, which is cool, but I kind of want to use the offset voltage feature, so it appropriately scales voltage depending on load? The auto voltage was 0.984V, so I thought I could specify an offset voltage of 1.22 - 0.984 = 0.236 V, but when I enter that value in for offset, the number turns red, which apparently means watch the fuck out. 1.22 V standard voltage only gave me a yellow number.

Anyone know how this works?
Click to expand...
Offset already adjusts voltage, so setting it to +0.236 would give it about 1.45V, probably sending it to 130C load and shutting off your computer.
Feep said:
What's a good way to get it under load? Transcoding?

Edit: Just grabbed Prime95, core speed ramped to 4.4 GHz no problem. DRAM frequency shows 800 MHz, though, not 1600 MHz? Weird...

More edit: Core 3 just dropped out with an error. Booooooo!

Cores 3 and 4 now out. WHAT DO I DO GAF
Click to expand...
Curse Intel for making Ivy Bridge shit. 800 * DOUBLE DATA RATE = 1600MHz.
Load programs are in the OP.

Use Offset and 4.4Ghz. See what your load voltage is, then make changes to offset based off that load voltage number.
bonesmccoy said:
So after reading through this thread at length, I finally made a bunch of purchases and have a new build heading my way. Of course, after ordering, something came up which has forced me to ask the following novice question:

When I made my order, the ASUS P8Z77-V LK wasn't available, so I picked up a LX for roughly $30 less. Now I've tracked down a LK and have the buyer's remorse dilemma.

I'm not an enthusiast - this build will be chiefly for gaming, but I won't be obsessing over running everything at ultra and so forth. Is it worth to grab the LK then? As I understand it, it's real benefit is only for adding a 2nd video card at some point.

I read through Exodus's helpful post, and he mentions that it's not a 'future-proofing' concern - which would pretty much be the only reason I'd be interested.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's just for the second card slot mainly.

Rough comparison:
LK > LX

LK has: Actual 8x/8x PCI-E 3.0 slots
better onboard LAN
better audio
4x USB3.0 ports on back vs 2

That's about it
 
F

Feep

Banned
Okay. Actually got a blue screen when I tried to run Prime95 again at those settings.

Went back into BIOS, chose 0.984 V base (stock setting), but now in Auto Offset mode.

Prime 95 has been going for a few minutes, no core failures. Vcore is at 1.32V (a little higher than I'd like), CPU temp is topping out at 58-59C.

Anything I should do? Maybe gun it back to 4.3 GHz since I may have gotten a shit processor?
 
H

hyduK

Banned
So I just built my PC. Turns on, says CPU Fan Error!

3770k
P8Z77-V Pro
Coolermaster 212+ EVO


The CPU fan is spinning. Thermal paste *should* be good. I can get into BIOS sometimes, but not every time. And it indicates that my CPU is running at 28C with little fluctuation, and the fan at 550RPM.

The first boot I managed to get to the windows installation but my keyboard wasn't responding, so I restarted. Haven't been able to get back there since...it shuts off after about a minute every time...

Any thoughts?
 
I

I H8 Memes

Member
hyduK said:
So I just built my PC. Turns on, says CPU Fan Error!

3770k
P8Z77-V Pro
Coolermaster 212+ EVO


The CPU fan is spinning. Thermal paste *should* be good. I can get into BIOS sometimes, but not every time. And it indicates that my CPU is running at 28C with little fluctuation, and the fan at 550RPM.

The first boot I managed to get to the windows installation but my keyboard wasn't responding, so I restarted. Haven't been able to get back there since...it shuts off after about a minute every time...

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Double check those power supply connections. Make sure you are using the right connections especially for the cpu.
 
G

gate777

Member
hyduK said:
So I just built my PC. Turns on, says CPU Fan Error!

3770k
P8Z77-V Pro
Coolermaster 212+ EVO


The CPU fan is spinning. Thermal paste *should* be good. I can get into BIOS sometimes, but not every time. And it indicates that my CPU is running at 28C with little fluctuation, and the fan at 550RPM.

The first boot I managed to get to the windows installation but my keyboard wasn't responding, so I restarted. Haven't been able to get back there since...it shuts off after about a minute every time...

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

It happened to me as well. It's just your motherboard warning you that your cpu fan is running below 600rpm. Go into the UEFI mode and set the cpu fan warning to 500rpm and below.

It starts around 500ish rpm and goes up to around mid 700. Install the AI suite software and control the fan from there through windows.
 
H

hyduK

Banned
I H8 Memes said:
Double check those power supply connections. Make sure you are using the right connections especially for the cpu.
Click to expand...


Okay, I'll give that a shot. I should note I'm using a 500W OCZ Modstream, which I feel should be sufficient.
gate777 said:
It happened to me as well. It's just your motherboard warning you that your cpu fan is running below 600rpm. Go into the UEFI mode and set the cpu fan warning to 500rpm and below.

It starts around 500ish rpm and goes up to around mid 700. Install the AI suite software and control the fan from there through windows.
Click to expand...

that's good to hear, thought maybe I installed the fan wrong. thanks!


I still find it odd that I was able to get to windows once, but not again..
 
F

faceless007

Member
hyduK said:
So I just built my PC. Turns on, says CPU Fan Error!

3770k
P8Z77-V Pro
Coolermaster 212+ EVO


The CPU fan is spinning. Thermal paste *should* be good. I can get into BIOS sometimes, but not every time. And it indicates that my CPU is running at 28C with little fluctuation, and the fan at 550RPM.

The first boot I managed to get to the windows installation but my keyboard wasn't responding, so I restarted. Haven't been able to get back there since...it shuts off after about a minute every time...

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Can't answer your question, but what RAM are you using, and does it have a heatspreader? That's almost the same build I'm about to get (non-Pro mobo) and I read the heatsink might block a RAM slot.
 
H

hyduK

Banned
faceless007 said:
Can't answer your question, but what RAM are you using, and does it have a heatspreader? That's almost the same build I'm about to get (non-Pro mobo) and I read the heatsink might block a RAM slot.
Click to expand...

Corsair Vengeance. Has a heat spreader but doesn't seem to be any issues.
 
C

CaptainZombie

Member
Sblargh said:
So, my PS3 is getting murdered by the yellow light and I'm thinking of swtiching to full-time PC experience.
Is the Gtx 550 listed on the OP still a good card or is there some game that will laugh at it?
Click to expand...

The 550 TI is not a bad card, but if you can afford it I would go with the 560 2GB or 560 TI. The 560 should last you longer than the 550 TI will since it can run many games at High - Ultra.
 
S

shinobi602

Member
Any of you guys know why CPU-Z is displaying 405MHz core frequency for my GTX 570?

p8eHx.jpg
 
H

hyduK

Banned
hyduK said:
So I just built my PC. Turns on, says CPU Fan Error!

3770k
P8Z77-V Pro
Coolermaster 212+ EVO


The CPU fan is spinning. Thermal paste *should* be good. I can get into BIOS sometimes, but not every time. And it indicates that my CPU is running at 28C with little fluctuation, and the fan at 550RPM.

The first boot I managed to get to the windows installation but my keyboard wasn't responding, so I restarted. Haven't been able to get back there since...it shuts off after about a minute every time...

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

So the computer seems to just freeze randomly. Just happened in BIOS, shuts down ~10 seconds after freezing.

Ugh. There's nothing visibly wrong with the build, everything is connected fine, etc. The power supply is the same one I had been using, and had no issues...so I doubt it's something to do with that.
 
I

I H8 Memes

Member
hyduK said:
So the computer seems to just freeze randomly. Just happened in BIOS, shuts down ~10 seconds after freezing.

Ugh. There's nothing visibly wrong with the build, everything is connected fine, etc. The power supply is the same one I had been using, and had no issues...so I doubt it's something to do with that.
Click to expand...


Can you take a picture of the motherboard setup and post it for us?
 
H

hyduK

Banned
I H8 Memes said:
Can you take a picture of the motherboard setup and post it for us?
Click to expand...

Sorry in advance, crappy iPhone pics.

0


0



I've disconnected everything but my Crucial M4, which is detected in BIOS fine. I'm installing windows from a USB stick...also detected fine. Doesn't appear to be a memory problem either.

The 8-pin is a bit of a stretch to reach the mobo, but it's connected firmly.
 
P

ParityBit

Member
So I have a H100 and sometimes the fans stop (not sure if they restart) I added aftermarket fans to the cooler. Is this supposed to happen? As in does the cooler shut them down if the temp is good? Or is something wrong here?
 
Z

ZetaEpyon

Member
rhfb said:
Post some pics when you get it built! I was considering a Define R3 or Arc Midi for my case (and was going to use the same cpu/mobo and probably a 670) so I want to see how it could have turned out!

No idea why Amazon USA doesn't carry Fractal Design cases but Amazon.co.uk does :(
Click to expand...

Just got everything up and running:
new_pc1.jpg

new_pc2.jpg
Click to expand...

Running a pair of Scythe Gentle Typhoons on the Hyper 212 Evo, overclocked to 4.4GHz @ ~1.25V. Seems to be a pretty decent balance of performance/heat/noise.

This thing is blazing fast. I came from a Q9550 running at 3.8GHz, with a Celeron G530 in this system as a holdover until Ivy was released.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Slayer-33 said:
I'm selling my 5750 for $50 to my cousin guys...

Best 7850 for the money?


Sapphire OC ed

or

XFX black edition



I really want a lifetime warranty too, :( $300-+ budget.


Or what card should I go for? I intend to play D3/GW2/BF3/DOTA 2, I need a legit solid midrange+ card.


Any recommendations?
Click to expand...
That's a tough price range to be in right now. Wait a week to see how the 670 lines up, hopefully a lot of people will sell their old cards. 6950/GTX 560Ti 448/GTX570 for all around the $200 mark used is by far the best value.

If you won't do that... then 560Ti 448 I guess.
Feep said:
Okay. Actually got a blue screen when I tried to run Prime95 again at those settings.

Went back into BIOS, chose 0.984 V base (stock setting), but now in Auto Offset mode.

Prime 95 has been going for a few minutes, no core failures. Vcore is at 1.32V (a little higher than I'd like), CPU temp is topping out at 58-59C.

Anything I should do? Maybe gun it back to 4.3 GHz since I may have gotten a shit processor?
Click to expand...
That CPU temp seems really low. Are you sure it's 60C and not like... +60C or something funny?
hyduK said:
So the computer seems to just freeze randomly. Just happened in BIOS, shuts down ~10 seconds after freezing.

Ugh. There's nothing visibly wrong with the build, everything is connected fine, etc. The power supply is the same one I had been using, and had no issues...so I doubt it's something to do with that.
Click to expand...
Unplug and replug every power and data connector.
 
M

mr2xxx

Banned
Need router recommendations for under $120. I need it for gaming, netflix and 2 laptops. Need something that is reliable that doesn't randomly crap out like my old one. I see the prices from 30 to over a 100 and I'm not really sure what I need or what is overpriced.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
hyduK said:
So the computer seems to just freeze randomly. Just happened in BIOS, shuts down ~10 seconds after freezing.

Ugh. There's nothing visibly wrong with the build, everything is connected fine, etc. The power supply is the same one I had been using, and had no issues...so I doubt it's something to do with that.
Click to expand...

What's your PSU? Is your current build more power hungry? When my AX850 went bad my PC started rebooting randomly (sometimes in BIOS, sometimes after a week of running games without issue).

mr2xxx said:
Need router recommendations for under $120. I need it for gaming, netflix and 2 laptops. Need something that is reliable that doesn't randomly crap out like my old one. I see the prices from 30 to over a 100 and I'm not really sure what I need or what is overpriced.
Click to expand...

If (and only if) you're willing to install custom firmware (dd-wrt), then the Asus RT-N16 is one of the best value choices.

I'm running a Netgear WNDR3700, and it's been fantastic, but it seems as though there are different versions and they're not all created equal, so I'm hesitant to recommend it.
 
E

evilpigking

Member
so neither of my hdds (1 ssd, 1 3.5") came with cables, I just need to grab some 6gb/s sata cables right? (I know the 3.5" doesn't need one that high but might as well just buy 2 when monoprice gets them back in stock right?)
 
F

Feep

Banned
evilpigking said:
so neither of my hdds (1 ssd, 1 3.5") came with cables, I just need to grab some 6gb/s sata cables right? (I know the 3.5" doesn't need one that high but might as well just buy 2 when monoprice gets them back in stock right?)
Click to expand...
SATA cables are SATA cables. There's no special one for 6 GB/s.
 
Slayer-33

Slayer-33

Liverpool-2
Hazaro said:
That's a tough price range to be in right now. Wait a week to see how the 670 lines up, hopefully a lot of people will sell their old cards. 6950/GTX 560Ti 448/GTX570 for all around the $200 mark used is by far the best value.

If you won't do that... then 560Ti 448 I guess.
Click to expand...

Love you bro, Ty for the advice I have been out of the gpu market for a bit, I'll wait it out.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
mr2xxx said:
Need router recommendations for under $120. I need it for gaming, netflix and 2 laptops. Need something that is reliable that doesn't randomly crap out like my old one. I see the prices from 30 to over a 100 and I'm not really sure what I need or what is overpriced.
Click to expand...
Asus RT-N16 + TomatoUSB
Slayer-33 said:
Love you bro, Ty for the advice I have been out of the gpu market for a bit, I'll wait it out.
Click to expand...
If/When I get a 670 I will be offloading my 570.
 
W

_woLf

Member
Awwww yeah! My final parts came today and thus my new PC is alive and running great!

Case: Corsair Obsidian 550D
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
Heatsink: Corsair H100
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
Power Supply: Corsair HX850 850W
RAM: 16GB (8GB x 2) Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600Mhz
Hard Drives: OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD SATA 3, Seagate 1TB SATA 3, Western Digital 1TB SATA 2
Graphics Cards: 2x EVGA GTX 260 OCs in SLI

SO GOOD. Games run so well (BF3, Skyrim) that I'm not even sure if I need to upgrade my graphics cards anymore. This thing slaughters everything I throw at it.
 
H

Hero

Member
Sorry guys, I keep getting Analysis Paralysis when it comes to purchasing a video card, that's been the thing holding me back the most.

Checking Slickdeals, they have this 6870 for 140 after MIR + shipping. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?SID=CMRlhJXGEeGFmG7jEQkWzw1b5c76&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16814150521

I wanted to wait to get a GTX 660 but apparently those won't come out until summer now?

So here's what I'm thinking:

CPU: i5 2500

GPU: The 6870 I listed above.

Motherboard: BIOSTAR TZ77B LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138352

Powersupply: XFX Core Edition PRO550W (P1-550S-XXB9) 550W ATX12V 2.2 & ESP12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

Case: NZXT Source 210 S210-001 Black http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146075

Harddrive: Using an existing one

Optical drive: Taking my old one out

So:

CPU: Already purchased
GPU: 140
Motherboard: 100
PSU: 75
RAM: 47
Case: 40

Would all of that come together nicely? I've said this almost every time I post in here but I don't know much about piecing together my own rig, I have a friend willing to help me once I get all the parts in. Thanks again to people who have been helping me with replies previously and those to come still. Definitely glad to be a part of GAF for things like this. :)
 
P

ParityBit

Member
ParityBit said:
So I have a H100 and sometimes the fans stop (not sure if they restart) I added aftermarket fans to the cooler. Is this supposed to happen? As in does the cooler shut them down if the temp is good? Or is something wrong here?
Click to expand...

Just a quick bump on this. I know that last night when I was installing some programs and I played some Deus Ex for a test, the CPU did not appear to get much hotter. But I dont think I saw the fans turn back on. (one was on and one was off)

When I boot, they both spin.
 
F

Fallout-NL

Member
3570kIB or 2500kSB?

I don't know who to listen to. The 2500 should be just as fast for games, others say the 3570 is faster at the same clockspeed (how the fuck does that even work?). That thermal paste in the IB proc looks dodgy. But I hate buying the 'old' processor when the new one is just 25 euro more.

What happened to the good old days when choosing a processor wasn't more difficult than just picking the highest amount of MHZs your budget would allow?
 
D

Danielsan

Member
Figured I'd post this here as well.

I'm currently looking to purchase a laptop to replace my horrible PC. I want the portability so that I can browse & watch videos online from couch or bed. Given that my current PC is a piece of shit and I want to be able to enjoy some PC games (on my HDTV) I've been looking at laptops with a decent CPU and video card. As it stands now I'm waiting for either an HP, Asus or Dell laptop with a 650m Kepler card built in and a Ivy Bridge i7 CPU. For this I'm willing to spend up to €1000.

Given that a sub €1000 laptop will probably never be a fantastic gaming machine I've been thinking about building a gaming desktop PC and purchasing a cheaper laptop for portability reasons instead.

If I were to build a PC I'd at the very least want to be able to play The Witcher 2 in 1080p on high settings. What would you recommend GAF?
 
F

Fallout-NL

Member
Danielsan said:
Figured I'd post this here as well.

I'm currently looking to purchase a laptop to replace my horrible PC. I want the portability so that I can browse & watch videos online from couch or bed. Given that my current PC is a piece of shit and I want to be able to enjoy some PC games (on my HDTV) I've been looking at laptops with a decent CPU and video card. As it stands now I'm waiting for either an HP, Asus or Dell laptop with a 650m Kepler card built in and a Ivy Bridge i7 CPU. For this I'm willing to spend up to €1000.

Given that a sub €1000 laptop will probably never be a fantastic gaming machine I've been thinking about building a gaming desktop PC and purchasing a cheaper laptop for portability reasons instead.

If I were to build a PC I'd at the very least want to be able to play The Witcher 2 in 1080p on high settings. What would you recommend GAF?
Click to expand...


Since the option of a gaming PC is actually on the table. I'd always, always buy a PC over a laptop.

Just get a dirt cheap laptop for when you need to go somewhere. You get so much more performance out a PC for a smaller sum of money.
 
B

BMX Bandit

Member
so I just put together a new pc and everything seems to be running fine but the power symbol led is on/full red(asus p8z68-v). Any ideas? I've looked through the manual but I'm not seeing anything. Other info:
i5 2500k
8gb ram
no vidcard currently/on board
h80 corsair cooler

trying to search on tablet isn't bringing up much gonna mess around some more(it isn't supposed to be on right?)
edit:
found a post saying that led is supposed to stay lit so I'm guessing I'm ok
 
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