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Warhammer 40,000 |OT| In the Grim Darkness of the Community Forum There Is Only War

N

Nazo

Member
Tacitus_ said:
Get a bottle of this
99189956006_NihilakhOxide.jpg


It's amazing for bronze/brass/copper stuff.
Click to expand...

I don't dare much for Nihilakh Oxide. When I use it I try to thin it down quite a bit. It's a little too fluorescent for my tastes. Or maybe give it a wash with Agrax Earthshade.

It's so bright, Warhammer TV did a tutorial for power swords where they made the power nodes on the blade glow with it.
 
manfestival

manfestival

Member
so I am reading dark imperium and I got through part 1 ... no spoilers but hot dang fulgrim. you nasty man... in the vile and straight up powerful way
 
B

BreezyLimbo

Banned
I have a question about how wounding works in 8th.

In the rule book it says "...If a model loses several wounds from a single attack and is destroyed, any excess damage is lost."
So say I fired a Heavy 3 gun at a unit, and the opposing player decided to allocate all wounds to one model. Would the 2 other wounds be lost since theyre not mortal wounds and dont have the "excess wounds are allocated to other models in the unit" since the heavy 3 doesnt cause mortal wounds? IE I fire a lascannon and roll a 4 for damage done, however since it doesnt cause mortal wounds, does that mean only 1 model dies?

And also, for this rule what is the definition of "single attack"? Does it refer to a single attack from a unit, or a singular attack from a model within that unit? Ie I fire 4 boltguns from a unit, do those 4 bolt guns count as separate attacks or a singular attack for the purpose of this rule?

Edit: Got help with it. Essentially a Heavy 3(for example) weapon does 3 separate attacks, conoared to a lascannon which does 1 attack just with variable damage.
 
L

Leunam

Member
Was just about to answer.

A Heavy Bolter deals multiple shots each with a set value for damage. So you can potentially deal three wounds, allocated as your opponent likes among the squad after saves. A Lascannon however will only hit one target, but that target can potentially take many wounds at a time. Excess wounds are lost because you're only targeting one enemy still.
 
B

BreezyLimbo

Banned
Leunam said:
Was just about to answer.

A Heavy Bolter deals multiple shots each with a set value for damage. So you can potentially deal three wounds, allocated as your opponent likes among the squad after saves. A Lascannon however will only hit one target, but that target can potentially take many wounds at a time. Excess wounds are lost because you're only targeting one enemy still.
Click to expand...

Yeah. The way it was worded confused me because I can be an idiot sometimes lol.

On a brighter note, gonna play some games today and hopefully pick up some bones/green stuff to start working on my Fetid Gunship >_>
 
manfestival

manfestival

Member
BreezyLimbo said:
Yeah. The way it was worded confused me because I can be an idiot sometimes lol.

On a brighter note, gonna play some games today and hopefully pick up some bones/green stuff to start working on my Fetid Gunship >_>
Click to expand...
Just to further confuse you, only mortal wounds can spill over.
 
manfestival

manfestival

Member
Geist- said:
I've heard the Hellblaster gun line is actually pretty competitive.
Click to expand...
Dude that line is nasty. Especially when you have a sargeant that lets you retool the ones. Everything else what kinda expected but I was caught by surprise at how good those guys are
 
V

Vincent Alexander

Member
Well, I started painting my Primaris marines tonight. First time painting. Ever. I bought a brush set, brush cleaner, made a wet palette based off video recommended here, and got my citadel paint set. But I fucked up....I got nothing but base paints in my set. I watched a bunch of GW videos in prep though!

So, I applied my base paint to three marines. Did body, shoulder pads, and gun. I thought it looked like shit at first, but it is amazing how much better each new piece of paint makes it all look. But then I tried coloring the skull sigil thing on marine chest and their eyes. Did absolutely awful. At least with eyes I could glob color on, then go back over face around eyes with helmet color again. With the chest sigil, I just can't get a feel for what I'm painting. Not sure if my eyes are garbage or what. With shoulder pads, they at least have a decently tall border to stop my brush from going over if I'm gentle. Does anyone have any tips for these finer details?

Also, does anyone use magnifying glass for painting to help see the finer details?
 
L

Leunam

Member
For details I like to use the box images. Also, nearly every model on the GW page will have a zoom function.

I don't use a magnifying glass but I'm sure others do. You can even buy the kind with a built in lamp. Just keep at it and you'll progress very quickly. Practice really does go a long way.
 
S

Showaddy

Member
Greigor The Fellhand said:
how are ya'll enjoying the Primaris marines (models)? are the squads viable and fun rules wise?
Click to expand...

Yeah the standard Intercessors seem pretty average but the Hellblasters look like they could be a lot of fun. I'm going to alternate between a squad of Hellblasters and a squad of Plasma Cannon Long Fangs to see which does better.
 
V

Vincent Alexander

Member
I'm painting again tonight to keep my practice up. But I have another question. Does anyone ever paint their models before they put them together? I only ask because some of these primaris marines hold their guns so close to their chest that I'm thinking "How the hell am I going to paint the chest and not hit the gun?" Getting paint behind backpack is a paint too, but won't be as hard.
 
M

mlclmtckr

Banned
Minotaurs are coming along! I used Armageddon Dust on the bases, it's still drying. I love the effect and the globs on the models' feet but the colour is too close to the bronze on the armour. I think I will either put grass on top or just paint the mud once it's dry (it needs a touch up anyway.)

GtmtnC1.jpg
Click to expand...
 
V

Vincent Alexander

Member
Wow. Those look damn nice.

When you guys do your base paint, do you want to cover 100% of your primer up? I might be way too stingy with my paint, but after a couple layers I still see some black-ish under my red, and I'm not sure if I need to go back and cover every single drop.
 
B

BreezyLimbo

Banned
Vincent Alexander said:
Wow. Those look damn nice.

When you guys do your base paint, do you want to cover 100% of your primer up? I might be way too stingy with my paint, but after a couple layers I still see some black-ish under my red, and I'm not sure if I need to go back and cover every single drop.
Click to expand...

With base paints, you usually want to do a couple of thin coats(Thinning your paint down on a palette a bit beforehand), which usually tends to cover up the primer. (So about 2 coats, while letting it dry completely in between coats.)
 
V

Vincent Alexander

Member
OKay...last question. Sorry to take up so much crud in this thread with painting questions. Everyone's help has been very much appreciated

So this below image. In the closest guy's left forearm, see the black primer coming through still in the armor detail? Am I supposed to be dabbing paint down there to cover that detail in red? Not necessarily hide it, but make it same color as armor? Or do most people leave it the primer color so it really stands out?

I also think I'm not watering down my colors enough with my wet pallet. The one in the back looks especially gloppy, but he is also Leafy, who was attacked by dried and crumpled leaves outside while his primer was drying. They've become a part of him now and will only make him stronger.

20170623_233040%201_zpsjkyzriys.jpeg
 
N

Nazo

Member
My damn 8th edition box is STILL not here. The god damn FedEx site says its in transit to my local post office...that was on Wednesday...at four in the morning.

I guess if it doesn't show up by the end of today I'm going to have to talk to talk to GW's customer service. Fun...

Vincent Alexander said:
OKay...last question. Sorry to take up so much crud in this thread with painting questions. Everyone's help has been very much appreciated

So this below image. In the closest guy's left forearm, see the black primer coming through still in the armor detail? Am I supposed to be dabbing paint down there to cover that detail in red? Not necessarily hide it, but make it same color as armor? Or do most people leave it the primer color so it really stands out?

I also think I'm not watering down my colors enough with my wet pallet. The one in the back looks especially gloppy, but he is also Leafy, who was attacked by dried and crumpled leaves outside while his primer was drying. They've become a part of him now and will only make him stronger.
Click to expand...

You should be trying to get paint in there. Wash/Shade paints accomplish the same thing while being a bit easier to work with than being overly careful with the models recessed details. Also, its a lot easier to fix if you mess it up.

Edit: I picked up the Triumvirate of the Primarch and I'm looking to make the two heads for Guilieman swapable. Does anyone recommend any small magnets that'll do the job?
 
S

SillyEskimo

Member
Vincent Alexander said:
OKay...last question. Sorry to take up so much crud in this thread with painting questions. Everyone's help has been very much appreciated

So this below image. In the closest guy's left forearm, see the black primer coming through still in the armor detail? Am I supposed to be dabbing paint down there to cover that detail in red? Not necessarily hide it, but make it same color as armor? Or do most people leave it the primer color so it really stands out?

I also think I'm not watering down my colors enough with my wet pallet. The one in the back looks especially gloppy, but he is also Leafy, who was attacked by dried and crumpled leaves outside while his primer was drying. They've become a part of him now and will only make him stronger.
Click to expand...

Your paint needs the consistency of milk. Over black primer, that usually means 2 coats. That clumped up shoulder pad has got to be repaired. Not only does it look bad, but it it will really mess up any attempt at decals detail work. Thin those paints!

As far as your "black lines" question, the bottom of that shoulder pad is about as perfect as one could hope. You need to make the top portion look the same. So if you got that line on the bottom pad by painting a particular stroke/direction, hold the model in a different way to do the same thing on the top of the pad. Washes and highlights will help those lines define areas if the model.

Other than that clumpy shoulder pad, your models are looking pretty good thanks to that first layer of red is going down really well. As you're learning, take solace in your small victories. Applying a solid base coat is a huge step in the right direction.
 
W

War Peaceman

You're a big guy.
Good advice Eskimo.

The first and most tedious aspect to model painting is getting the base coats down cleanly and neatly. Taking the time on this step will make everything easier and will already look good on the tabletop.

Then doing the washes - either directed (pin-washes, drawn into the recesses) or all over washes (usually not a good idea on flat surfaces). will take it up a level. An army basecoated neatly and washed will look better than a large amount of armies out there. Everything done to a solid standard looks so much better than a mixture of high quality and unfinished models.

Another thing to consider is that a model can look awful for a long time before suddenly looking great. When you are in the base coats phase it can look really messy - plug away at it and keep neat and tidy and it will come together. Also, doing the basing can turn an unfinished looking model into a finished looking model even if you have more work to do. Psychologically it is much more motivating to improve an already usable model than some half-finished thing.
 
B

Bradach

Member
Just played my first 8th edition game today. Good fun.

I have a question about the fight phase. I know when a unit charges it goes first that turn but what about each turn thereafter? Does the charging unit always go first, even in the next players turn? Or does the active players unit go first in the following turn? (Where there was no charging)
 
B

BreezyLimbo

Banned
Bradach said:
Just played my first 8th edition game today. Good fun.

I have a question about the fight phase. I know when a unit charges it goes first that turn but what about each turn thereafter? Does the charging unit always go first, even in the next players turn? Or does the active players unit go first in the following turn? (Where there was no charging)
Click to expand...

I think its the active player goes first? Thats a good question actually.
 
manfestival

manfestival

Member
Bradach said:
Just played my first 8th edition game today. Good fun.

I have a question about the fight phase. I know when a unit charges it goes first that turn but what about each turn thereafter? Does the charging unit always go first, even in the next players turn? Or does the active players unit go first in the following turn? (Where there was no charging)
Click to expand...

you alternate attacking based on whose turn it is.
IE: you have 3 different fights going on and it is your turn. Charges were resolved last round. You now get to choose which of your 3 engaged units are going to swing first. Then he chooses one after you resolve your swinging and so forth till all units have finished fighting.
 
B

Bradach

Member
manfestival said:
you alternate attacking based on whose turn it is.
IE: you have 3 different fights going on and it is your turn. Charges were resolved last round. You now get to choose which of your 3 engaged units are going to swing first. Then he chooses one after you resolve your swinging and so forth till all units have finished fighting.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see. That makes sense. Thanks
 
B

barik

Member
Not sold on the new Death Guard yet, but I'll reserve my judgement until I see the full kit. Weird, because the Dark Imperium models are great, but I'm not buying the full box just for those models.

edit: what's up with the high heel look on the primaris marines?
 
W

War Peaceman

You're a big guy.
barik said:
Not sold on the new Death Guard yet, but I'll reserve my judgement until I see the full kit. Weird, because the Dark Imperium models are great, but I'm not buying the full box just for those models.

edit: what's up with the high heel look on the primaris marines?
Click to expand...

If you want I could sell you the Deathguard :D

Reivers are supposed to be stealthy, their armour is designed for sneaking and terror.
 
J

Jinaar

Member
Reading DARK IMPERIUM, great so far!

As for painting, finished Cypher recently and I have done something heretical with my first Primarus Marine.

CYPHER
A8a2QCD.jpg


EMPEROR'S CHILDREN PRIMARUS MARINE
DZCMX33.jpg
 
B

barik

Member
^ great stuff! Really crisp painting.

War Peaceman said:
If you want I could sell you the Deathguard :D

Reivers are supposed to be stealthy, their armour is designed for sneaking and terror.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the offer but unless you're in the EU it's probably not worth the postage/hassle. I'll retroactively take you up on this offer if the 'normal' Plague Marine box turns out to be a disaster though, thanks :)
 
V

Vincent Alexander

Member
Jinaar said:
Reading DARK IMPERIUM, great so far!

As for painting, finished Cypher recently and I have done something heretical with my first Primarus Marine.

CYPHER
A8a2QCD.jpg


EMPEROR'S CHILDREN PRIMARUS MARINE
DZCMX33.jpg
Click to expand...
My god...that is amazing.

I just finished my first "complete" space marine, just doing whatever colors for the fun of it and to get the hang of things. I think I'm going to paint the rest of mine the actual Primaris space marine colors so I can imitate and compare better.
 
T

Tacitus_

Member
Knew Reivers would get actual minis. Still missing the ones with gauntlet flamers and shoulder mounted missiles, but I reckon they're following shortly.
 
S

SillyEskimo

Member
Started my first Primaris Marine. Still a work in progress, but thought others might like to see one done up in another chapter. I still have a long way to go, but you get the idea! I still have to do a base too. I'll post him once he is complete at a later date.

IMG_9131.jpg


The Nurgle terminator will be next. I have a cool base idea for him.
 
J

Jinaar

Member
SillyEskimo said:
Started my first Primaris Marine. Still a work in progress, but thought others might like to see one done up in another chapter. I still have a long way to go, but you get the idea! I still have to do a base too. I'll post him once he is complete at a later date.

IMG_9131.jpg


The Nurgle terminator will be next. I have a cool base idea for him.
Click to expand...

I like this :) I wish I had more WH40K bits to use personally to make things more unique like what you have done. My next primarus is a Space Wolf, but alas, it would be awesome to have an actual Space Wolf head to use, but I got none.
 
F

Fou-Lu

Member
Soooo, instead of getting Dark Imperium my buddy and I decided to just choose our favourite armies. He decided to go Necrons and bought a start collecting box and a unit of Triarch Praetorians. He plans to grab a box of Wraiths and a box or two of Immortals next. I decided I wanted to do a Aeldari/Ynnari army and would grab whatever seemed easiest of the Craftworld Eldar/Dark Eldar/Harlequins to start. Ended up with a Dark Eldar start collecting box and a box of Scourges. I plan to get the Ynnari HQ box eventually, but am uncertain as to where to branch out after that, I'd like to get some Craftworlders in on the action. Suggestions?
 
manfestival

manfestival

Member
anyone have any suggestions for getting second hand armies? everyone seems to say ebay but I am looking for a little better of a deal than the usual things on ebay
 
M

Mikeside

Member
I usually prime and paint my figures once they're completely put together.
This is obviously going to be an issue for the new jetpack units, as I don't want to paint that clear flying base.

What's the best way to spray them with complete coverage? I guess I need to mount them on something?
 
G

Greigor The Fellhand

Member
Reivers need blank face plates to go better stylistically with the theme of the models.

no eyes, just a blank face plate.

also when are the multipart models coming, these are more monopose 3-4 part figures. GARH


--------------------

update on my Murderfang, the Nemsis Dread Wulfen
still both a PiP and WiP

A3RGHTW.jpg
 
B

barik

Member
Mikeside said:
I usually prime and paint my figures once they're completely put together.
This is obviously going to be an issue for the new jetpack units, as I don't want to paint that clear flying base.

What's the best way to spray them with complete coverage? I guess I need to mount them on something?
Click to expand...

I've actually run into a similar problem recently, I wanted to paint a group of models but I painted the bases beforehand and didn't want to ruin those. So I drilled a hole in their feet with a pin vice, inserted a small length of wire, and stuck that between two pieces of mdf held tight by rubber bands (I couldn't find any cork at the time, but corks from bottles work great for this). I guess you could also just assemble them with the flying bases and tape those off beforehand, but you're taking a bigger risk by doing that, I don't think flying bases are too forgiving of excess paint.

IMG_0834.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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