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Costanza-san
Banned
(10-18-2017, 07:22 PM)
Hi all,
Today I turned on my PC and one of my monitors says "DisplayPort No Signal".
I use two monitors and the one which displayed that is an ASUS VG248QE. I don't have another monitor I can test my DisplayPort cable with, but I did try HDMI with that monitor and it worked fine. Also, I'm using a GTX 970.
I did some googling and tried things like unplugging the monitor's power cable but that did nothing.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh should also mention that I've been using this monitor with this cable with this graphics card for like 3 months and I've never had any problems with it.


Update: Okay...it seems that using that monitor with DisplayPort while using the other monitor with DVI doesn't work. I switched to HDMI on the other monitor and now DisplayPort with the first monitor works and everything is fine. Not necessarily an issue anymore but I'm still confused.
woodland
Member
(10-19-2017, 02:27 AM)
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Hey everyone - have a pain in the ass problem I need some help with. I rebuilt my PC about a year ago with new parts, new mobo, CPU, GPU, ram, case, but same everything else. For some reason, the connectors that make the powerbutton on the case work just don't - I've tried every combination and gone over the instructions 80x. So I generally just leave it on and in sleep mode, then if it ever goes off I just unscrew the case and turn it on manually (ghetto, I know).

I moved in with my gf in a new town pretty far from home and she works from home for the time being with no end in site. She loves my dual monitor setup/had one at work, so she got an HP connector to connect her laptop to my desktop monitors. For the first week or two, no problem, could come home, eject her laptop, and be good to go. For the past month though, for some reason it forces my computer to hibernate and now my computer doesn't wake up from that when I type on the keyboard/move the mouse around.

Any ideas?
Gaffi
Member
(10-19-2017, 02:55 AM)
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Originally Posted by CreepingFear

It could be the lines/infrastructure of your new place. Is this an apartment? There could be too many line splitters or the splitter is going bad on the cable line. I would flush your dns cache, etc. out. Just because you are using same equipment and same provider, doesn't mean it couldn't be old settings getting in way. Do you use your ISP's dns or use google or open dns? Are you familiar with trace route that is built into your PC? Try running that on some of the websites that you go to and seeing if the ms numbers show high latency or time out. There are so many different things that it could be. It's not impossible that it isn't your Ethernet cable. I would definitely try another Ethernet cable. Troubleshooting really can be process of elimination until you find root cause.

Sorry for the slow response. This is a duplex but I heard the ISP guy say something about having to leave the splitter lie outside of the wall outlet b/c he didn't want to try and stuff it back in there and mess up other people's connections. I'd assume he just meant the other duplex renter but I have no idea how the connection is setup as this whole street is rental duplexs. After that he showed me his phone showing my connection stats and said they were all with regular parameters, this was at move in a week ago. I tested the internet on a few pages right then to make sure it was working but didn't encounter my issues until later.

I'm fairly tech savy but I will admit most of what you said is a bit beyond me. The problem could be the splitter in theory but I'd have no way to know, I'll save that for last if I have to call them to come out and fix. So next up is DNS. I vaguelly remember changing my DNS to get some files for Final Fantasy XIV to download. I can research on how to reset it to default or would google's or 'open' DNS be better? If that doesn't help I'll look into trying a new ethernet, and then finally I'll call my ISP if that doesn't work.

Thanks for the info!
KRaZyAmmo
Member
(10-19-2017, 03:31 AM)
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Hey guys. So I have a monitor with 1 HDMI port and currently my PC's HDMI is plugged into it. If I wanna play PS4, I would have to switch the HDMI cable out to play PS4 and vise versa. Is there any solution where I can have the PS4 on another display cable, but still have the PC's HDMI cable plugged into the HDMI slot. I tried hooking up the PS4's HDMI cable to a DVI-D adapter. But I get no video when it's plugged into the DVI-D adapter.
Auctopus
Member
(10-20-2017, 10:32 PM)
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Got one for the network analysts.

So, I work at a University and over the last weekend our Information Security guys found out there was 500 odd students who had managed to log in to our WPA2-Enterprise Network without using an email address log-in. They were able to use the first part of the email without the suffix which should normally reject any log-in attempt.

So, the team saw it is a security issue (which obviously it is), but they just pushed those odd 500 students off the internet and expected them to log in with their correct credentials no problem.

They didn't.

In fact, nearly all these students needed additional assistance from our Service Desk. Windows was thankfully the easiest, with just forgetting the network credentials and possibly reinstalling the wi-fi driver via a restart. However, the Macbooks, iPhones and especially Androids have been much tougher. Most Macs will log back in after a visit to Keychain Access and removing our network certificate and logging back in to accept it. iPhone can usually do it after forgetting the network also.

Some devices though (especially the Androids) only re-connect after dozens of identical attempts to log in. Literally just attempting log ins over and over again.

Not only does this slow down the service desk but it's also kind of embarrassing when our desk team needs to earnestly say that the fix to this person's issue is to just keep trying.

Anyone have any ideas as to why these devices are giving us so much grief?
mikezilla2
Member
(10-21-2017, 02:28 PM)

Originally Posted by KRaZyAmmo

Hey guys. So I have a monitor with 1 HDMI port and currently my PC's HDMI is plugged into it. If I wanna play PS4, I would have to switch the HDMI cable out to play PS4 and vise versa. Is there any solution where I can have the PS4 on another display cable, but still have the PC's HDMI cable plugged into the HDMI slot. I tried hooking up the PS4's HDMI cable to a DVI-D adapter. But I get no video when it's plugged into the DVI-D adapter.

what you Need is a HDMI Switcher

its just a matter of finding one that will pass all the video signals across that you Need

im looking for one myself
Gaffi
Member
(10-21-2017, 05:07 PM)
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I managed to undo my custom DNS or 4.2.2.2 and I believe I reset it to just the Default DNS. So far I seem to have not encountered any more hiccups. Fingers crossed that it holds up. Thank you for all the help CreepingFear!
Crispy75
Member
(10-21-2017, 06:02 PM)
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I just bought a new 500GB SSD (crucial MX300) and things have been a little bit screwy.

I cloned my old 128GB SSD with Acronis, swapped over and everything boots and works fine.

Except sometimes, everything hangs. Cursor still moves, but everything else is unresponsive. Ctrl-Alt-Del does nothing and a hard reboot is the only option. Sometimes Windows likes to do a disk check afterwards, finding no errors.

SMART says the disk is 100% healthy with no reported errors.

Vague symptoms I know, but there might be some obvious things I haven't checked?

PC info:

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77N-WIFI
CPU: i5 3750
GFX: Geforce 1070
Sikamikanico
#1 Dad
(10-21-2017, 08:05 PM)
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Okay weird one here folks.

My SSD (OS drive) appeared to fail. Investigations suggested windows could no longer identify an OS on the drive. Reinstalled, new instance of win10, working okay. Updated GEFORCE Driver, black screens, no OS drive anymore according to diagnostics.

Okay...could have been a coincidence. Tried a different spare harddisk, repeated to test/elimate - same issue - latest drivers effectively brick the machine. W-T-F?!?

Obviously solution is - don't update the GEFORCE drivers, but what the hell?!
Random Painted HIghway
Member
(10-25-2017, 03:20 AM)
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Wasnít this thread in the main forum before? It is my only non game subscription that came back.

Anywho. Iíve been out of the loop, when should I get a new desktop,, over the next six months. Not sure budget, but mid to high mid range
Zoe
(10-25-2017, 04:33 AM)
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Originally Posted by Random Painted HIghway

Wasn’t this thread in the main forum before? It is my only non game subscription that came back.

Yeah, it seems like I retained my subscriptions to the couple of threads that were moved from OT, but everything that was already in OT Community was wiped out from my settings.
Koren
Member
(10-25-2017, 03:18 PM)
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Subscriptions are probably based on the thread ID in the database, and thread availability / subforum location is stored in another table... So as long as the thread ID exists, you'll see it in your subscriptions.

That's actually needed so that you don't lose a subscription to a thread when it moves from gaming to community, for example, because the game isn't news anymore.

Some databases are better designed than the Sony PSN one ;)
wvnative
Member
(10-25-2017, 05:04 PM)

Originally Posted by wvnative

I won't be able to respond back for awhile if someone answers me, but I wanna post now cause this is driving me crazy.

I have two mysterious wi-fi networks that popped up in my home like two months ago. No new devices in the house aside from Nintendo Switch. They don't have an actual internet connection. And I have managed to figure out they are from Azuretech. But that didn't help me.

Tried looking up their MAC address, no luck. They each have about 4 bars from anywhere in my home. All my devices detect them, and my ipod touch 6 will automatically switch to one of them randomly causing me all sorts of issues.

The names of the networks are...

WM0ff2d9

WM21b4f2

They are 100%, not a neighbor's device.


How the HELL do I figure out wtf these connections are? Forget network doesn't work on any devices, they show up no matter what.

Reposting cause I still haven't figured this out. Really need to figure out what the hell these are. I do know that if my power goes out they vanish.
Shifty1897
Member
(10-25-2017, 07:49 PM)
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Originally Posted by wvnative

Reposting cause I still haven't figured this out. Really need to figure out what the hell these are. I do know that if my power goes out they vanish.

If money is not an issue or you are friends with somebody at your local IT department, they'll have a portable wireless signal finder that you can use to find the source. We use a NetScout Aircheck G2 to track and shut down student hotspots on campus.
StoneFox
Member
(10-25-2017, 07:56 PM)
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Originally Posted by woodland

Hey everyone - have a pain in the ass problem I need some help with. I rebuilt my PC about a year ago with new parts, new mobo, CPU, GPU, ram, case, but same everything else. For some reason, the connectors that make the powerbutton on the case work just don't - I've tried every combination and gone over the instructions 80x. So I generally just leave it on and in sleep mode, then if it ever goes off I just unscrew the case and turn it on manually (ghetto, I know).

I moved in with my gf in a new town pretty far from home and she works from home for the time being with no end in site. She loves my dual monitor setup/had one at work, so she got an HP connector to connect her laptop to my desktop monitors. For the first week or two, no problem, could come home, eject her laptop, and be good to go. For the past month though, for some reason it forces my computer to hibernate and now my computer doesn't wake up from that when I type on the keyboard/move the mouse around.

Any ideas?

If it's Windows 10, it has always had issues with hibernation on some systems. You'll want to go into power settings and make sure nothing like hibernation is enabled. Also check that the laptop isn't doing anything weird either.

As for the power button issue, try to see if you can turn it on with a screwdriver bridging the power pins. If you can do that, that means the cables that came with the case are defective, and a case swap will fix the problem.
Tacitus_
Member
(10-25-2017, 08:26 PM)
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I think my speakers power brick is going bad. The speakers die occasionally and their light pulses in intensity. Unplugging the brick for a while gets them going again. I think my options are either getting a new brick (40-50Ä) or getting new speakers altogether (80Ä for the model I have).
Opinions?
SoulUnison
Member
(10-26-2017, 01:03 AM)
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So about 4 or 5 times over the average day my internet connection goes out for maybe 20-30 seconds. Browsers get stuck on "resolving host" and then spit up a DNS error. It's not one specific device, everything connected to my LAN goes down (cell phones, other computers, tablets, 3DS, Vita, etc..) It also happens wether I use the ISP's DNS setting or a public DNS server like Google's. Nothing appears to change in regards to my modem's or router's status during these moments.

I've flushed every cache and updated every driver, and my ISP says there doesn't appear to be anything wrong on their end, so what's going on?

It's very annoying, it causes me to sign out and into Steam and Discord and other programs repeatedly, and if I'm playing anything online at the moment, the game is interrupted and ruined - it's already cost me a couple penalties for "leaving matches" in Overwatch.
Dominican Power
Member
(10-26-2017, 05:17 AM)
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Originally Posted by SoulUnison

So about 4 or 5 times over the average day my internet connection goes out for maybe 20-30 seconds. Browsers get stuck on "resolving host" and then spit up a DNS error. It's not one specific device, everything connected to my LAN goes down (cell phones, other computers, tablets, 3DS, Vita, etc..) It also happens wether I use the ISP's DNS setting or a public DNS server like Google's. Nothing appears to change in regards to my modem's or router's status during these moments.

I've flushed every cache and updated every driver, and my ISP says there doesn't appear to be anything wrong on their end, so what's going on?

It's very annoying, it causes me to sign out and into Steam and Discord and other programs repeatedly, and if I'm playing anything online at the moment, the game is interrupted and ruined - it's already cost me a couple penalties for "leaving matches" in Overwatch.

Sounds like your modem/router
Koren
Member
(10-26-2017, 12:58 PM)
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Originally Posted by SoulUnison

So about 4 or 5 times over the average day my internet connection goes out for maybe 20-30 seconds. Browsers get stuck on "resolving host" and then spit up a DNS error. It's not one specific device, everything connected to my LAN goes down (cell phones, other computers, tablets, 3DS, Vita, etc..) It also happens wether I use the ISP's DNS setting or a public DNS server like Google's. Nothing appears to change in regards to my modem's or router's status during these moments.

How are you connected to your modem?

I have the very same issue, and I haven't been able to pinpoint the reason yet, but I suspect it's related to the network-over-powerlines blocs.

Strangely, on my linux machine, if I put interface down then up, I get DNS back right away.

I get a couple of disconnexions on the modem itself, but I still havent been able to check whether they're related.
Orion514
Member
(10-26-2017, 04:57 PM)
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Is this thread for PC troubleshooting only? I just got an android phone, going from iPhone and I need to know if there's an audio balancing option on Android like there is on iPhone?

At work, I like to listen with one earbud in so I can hear if anyone walks up. To that end, I usually set to Mono audio and then change the audio to just Right side so there is no sound blaring out of the left side.

Any ideas how you do this on Android? I didn't see an option for Balancing in Accessibility settings, however, Mono audio is there.
Koren
Member
(10-26-2017, 08:29 PM)
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Originally Posted by Orion514

Any ideas how you do this on Android? I didn't see an option for Balancing in Accessibility settings, however, Mono audio is there.

?

Balancing is literrally the option above Mono audio on Android... What phone/android version do you have?
Orion514
Member
(10-26-2017, 08:42 PM)
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Originally Posted by Koren

?

Balancing is literrally the option above Mono audio on Android... What phone/android version do you have?

I am using Pixel 2 XL, so Oreo 8.0. Balancing is not in the Accessibility settings for me, so they must have removed that? Seems crazy.
ロキー
Member
(11-19-2017, 04:31 AM)
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Any GAF members here good with old computers or ever used the Sony PCV line? I have a Sony VAIO PCV-L400 desktop that is having issues detecting the keyboard and mouse that came with it. I created a detailed quick 3 minute video showing off the problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDXmnXJIlvc

Any help would be appreciated! I have BIOS screenshots in the description if needed.
oneran
Member
(11-26-2017, 12:54 AM)
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Originally Posted by ロキー

Any GAF members here good with old computers or ever used the Sony PCV line? I have a Sony VAIO PCV-L400 desktop that is having issues detecting the keyboard and mouse that came with it. I created a detailed quick 3 minute video showing off the problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDXmnXJIlvc

Any help would be appreciated! I have BIOS screenshots in the description if needed.

Have you tried unplugging the mouse and just using the Keyboard? (also try using just a standard PS/2 Keyboard if you have one)

You should be able to navigate the setup portion of windows 98 by using the tab keys to switch between input fields.
ロキー
Member
(11-26-2017, 04:40 AM)
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Originally Posted by oneran

Have you tried unplugging the mouse and just using the Keyboard? (also try using just a standard PS/2 Keyboard if you have one)

You should be able to navigate the setup portion of windows 98 by using the tab keys to switch between input fields.

Yea I tried that. I think someone on reddit figured out what the problem is.

So either my keyboard or the computer uses a proprietary pinout order which means I would need the original cable that shipped with the computer for everything to work. Lot's of things weren't standardized back then...

I'm going to try out an active usb/ps2 adapter and see if that works.
Koren
Member
(11-26-2017, 01:37 PM)
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Originally Posted by ロキー

So either my keyboard or the computer uses a proprietary pinout order which means I would need the original cable that shipped with the computer for everything to work. Lot's of things weren't standardized back then...

I really, really dout that's pinout related. PC keyboard connectors are standard since at the very least the PC/AT in the early 80s (with Din5). In fact, it's not even restricted to PCs, since several other computers use the same standard.

They follow a DIN5 > DIN6 > USB upgrade for connectors, but all three are standardized. Even if keyboards/mouses often shipped with adaptors (especially DIN6 > USB) to cope with more motherboards.

I don't know this particular model, but I really can't think it's not a standard connector for KB/Mouse for pinout.

Still, that's a strange issue. Did you reinstall Windows 98? With the disk from the computer?

I guess the BIOS see the KB+M as a keyboard, so as long as you poll the keyboard through the BIOS functions, it works. But once Windows try to use its own polling functions, it lacks a driver for this specific keyboard (the fact that it mixes KB and mouse events is unusual). You should be able to pass this step with a diffferent keyboard, then may be able to download (or simply install) your specific keyboard afterwards (maybe directly during installation, in fact).
ロキー
Member
(11-26-2017, 08:39 PM)
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Originally Posted by Koren

I don't know this particular model, but I really can't think it's not a standard connector for KB/Mouse for pinout.

Here is the pinout I pulled from the service manual:



Source: http://manualzz.com/doc/19693684/pcv...-vaio-us-model

Originally Posted by Koren

Still, that's a strange issue. Did you reinstall Windows 98? With the disk from the computer?

I got the computer from Ebay, didn't come with a recovery or os disc unfortunately. Formatted the hdd and installed Windows 98 FE using the disc I already had. I can't help but think the OS is not the problem since the keyboard won't even work in the BIOS.
Koren
Member
(11-27-2017, 12:12 AM)
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Originally Posted by ロキー

Here is the pinout I pulled from the service manual:

As far as I know, the keyboard/Vcc/Ground part is totally standard. The two mouse pins are usually unused, but it make sense to use those pins this way (though I suspect the mouse won't work on your laptop?)


Originally Posted by ロキー

I got the computer from Ebay, didn't come with a recovery or os disc unfortunately. Formatted the hdd and installed Windows 98 FE using the disc I already had. I can't help but think the OS is not the problem since the keyboard won't even work in the BIOS.

Interesting... I understood the opposite.

Out of curiosity, don't you have one of those

(they were in most keyboard boxes in the last twenty years and sometime still are)
so you can try an USB keyboard? Though honestly, I'm not sure what those dongles actually require from the motherboard :/

I wonder if there may be something wrong with the motherboard (I would probably try to check the voltage supplied to the keyboard for example). I guess capslock light don't work when you try to use capslock?
Z3M0G
Member
(12-04-2017, 09:28 PM)
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How common is it for boards/bios to block higher speed ram from even being recognized? You'd expect it would just run the ram at the speed the board supports, but a buddy has a Dell that wouldn't allow the sticks to be used at all... they worked fine in another machine.

I own an Acer Aspire M3400 (maybe this http://www.memoryupgradecompany.com/...ryUpgrade.html)

I wanted to know if it was possible to install a 4GB 1600mhz stick and just expect it to run at 1333mhz, but I don't think I should take the chance... :/

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