-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Quadrophenic
Member
Thanks for the info and help, much appreciated 
Tech usually tends to go down in power consumption, not up. Unless you plan to crosfire/sli there's no need. 670 perf is approximately the same as a 680, you're not downgrading, just saving $100 and a lot of time waiting for stock. There's no need for 16gb of ram unless you're working 10m+ polys or with video, so it's doubtful that you're downgrading there either.
FUCK
So I told you guys about how my computer started BSOD:ing and then refused to enter Windows, shortly after I (luckily) ordered a SSD and made backups of all my stuff. I thought it was my ancient 2005 HDD that failed, Occam's Razor and all that. But now... just got my new SSD and installed Windows, had strange problems and got a couple of BSODs, was like SHIT...
...long story short, I ran memtest and one of my sticks is ERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERRORERROR ad infinitum. The other one checks out fine and has no errors. Of course I've got one of those fancy 8 GB kits with two sticks, so I'll probably have to send in both stick and thus being unable to use my comp for probably the whole of next week...
FUCK
ASSBUCKETS OF SHITFUCK!
So IN ADDITION to the above problem, I've discovered that the source of the really loud cricket noises coming from the comp was not the HDD as I thought... To say the least, I was surprised when I had installed the SSD, started gaming, and it made the same loud noise as before! it was the god damned PSU! It's louder than all the fans and sounds like a horny cricket choir non-stop while gaming. So in one day I've discovered that BOTH one of my RAM sticks AND my PSU have to be RMA:d...
FML
That's a lot of SHITFUCK.
Seriously, though, that sucks man. I feel for you...
---
Question time for everyone:
If I'm starting to put together a build and I've decided that I want to stay with i5-2500K is there a reason to still get a Z77 mobo if I'm not going Ivy Bridge now? I wouldn't anticipate upgrading my CPU for a year or more...
I love that band. I hear they're great live.
Whoa man, that really sucks :/
Not unless there's any Z77 features you want. eg Asus's Wifi Go if you have an andriod/ios phone/tablet.
I'm having a minor issue with a new build.
Here's the basic specs: -
3770K
Maximus IV Gene Z/Gen3
16GB of Corsair RAM
Corsair 620HX PSU
No GPU is fitted yet as I'm saving up for one
In the BIOS, it lists my RAM as being 1,333 MHz when it's 1,600. I found someone with the same issue on another site and they just changed the relevant BIOS setting from "auto" to 1,600 and that was that, but when I try that I get a BSOD every time I shut the PC down.
Any idea what I may have done wrong, or what may be causing this?
Here's the basic specs: -
3770K
Maximus IV Gene Z/Gen3
16GB of Corsair RAM
Corsair 620HX PSU
No GPU is fitted yet as I'm saving up for one
In the BIOS, it lists my RAM as being 1,333 MHz when it's 1,600. I found someone with the same issue on another site and they just changed the relevant BIOS setting from "auto" to 1,600 and that was that, but when I try that I get a BSOD every time I shut the PC down.
Any idea what I may have done wrong, or what may be causing this?
Labombadog
Member
Look up the recommended voltage for your RAM and make sure it's applied in the BIOS. It's probably not having enough juice to power those babies.
Goodluck.
edit: Also, run memtest+ to make sure your RAM is working properly.
Thanks, I checked the voltage and it's 1.5 Volts, which is what it's set to in the BIOS.
I'll run Memtest and see what happens.
fuzzyreactor
Banned
whats the secret to cable management. i have so many cable how do i get it neat like these pics.
You have XMP profile selected?
Technically, anything past 1333 is an overclock on sandybridge/ivybridge/sandy-e. You might have to look up the specs and manually enter them.
Link to a guide by yours truly in the OP.
Doc Holliday
SPOILER: Columbus finds America
W00t the sweet sound of post! Damn this asus bios is pretty slick
It isn't modular though, and my new case is kinda small. I only need the CPU cords, 2x6 PCIe ends and a single SATA power connector. Rocking a 750w corsair now with a bunch more than that, and it is only bronze or silver I think.
Can anyone please tell me if this RAM:CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9 is compatible with this MoBo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS.
It does not appear in the MoBo compatible devices, but that does not mean it won't work, right? it is also the recomended in the OP for that board, so... IDK really :-/
Thanks in advance guys.
It does not appear in the MoBo compatible devices, but that does not mean it won't work, right? it is also the recomended in the OP for that board, so... IDK really :-/
Thanks in advance guys.
HELP GAF!
I'm not sure if it's my PSU or GPU making the "cricket" sound... it sounds exactly like a really loud HDD when it's reading data. It's not a constant noise, but just like a HDD it's sort of staccato, intermittent, and sometimes disappears for a minute or so. It only occurs during gaming. My ear isn't sophisticated enough to hear exactly where it's coming from, how can I test it?
I'm not sure if it's my PSU or GPU making the "cricket" sound... it sounds exactly like a really loud HDD when it's reading data. It's not a constant noise, but just like a HDD it's sort of staccato, intermittent, and sometimes disappears for a minute or so. It only occurs during gaming. My ear isn't sophisticated enough to hear exactly where it's coming from, how can I test it?
It'll work. Your mobo has 4×240pin ram slots. The ram you selected is 240 pin. It'll go in nice and smooth. Also, Corsair is a good brand.
Excellent, thank you very much, now I'll wait a month for the parts to arrive, sigh...
1+ month with almost no PC or internet, I think I'll hit the gym again.
If you still have your key, you can download the USB version direct from microsoft. I dont have a link on hand though.
Google for "digital river windows 7" and you can find direct links for Windows 7 SP1 ISOs for all versions of Windows. They're legit to download and use as long as you have a valid license key. Having SP1 integrated saves you time and a bit of disc space too, because if you install SP1 the regular way, Windows creates a folder that's several hundred MB in size in case you need to uninstall the service pack.
Ah, sweet. Thanks.
Anyone know where I can buy a tenkeyless (Standard keyboard minus the numberpad) rubber dome keyboard for my new rig?
All the tenleyless keyboards I found are mechanical, I know they are significatly superior but the loudness is a dealbreaker for me. So far all I found are minikeyboards with cramped key layouts. Thanks.
All the tenleyless keyboards I found are mechanical, I know they are significatly superior but the loudness is a dealbreaker for me. So far all I found are minikeyboards with cramped key layouts. Thanks.
What a night. Decided to copy all of my storage data from my noisy HDDs to my new 1TB storage drive, then unplug them and save them for a rainy day. Next time I boot it says something about invalid media or something, like it can't find the Windows installation. Change around the SATA cables, change boot priority, open Diskpart and try to set it as active all to no avail - Think it might have used the space of one of these HDDs I removed for that usual Windows 100mb system file.
Re-install Windows again. Then a night of overclocking and slightly undervolting, finding some decent settings. Found some that puts the 3930k at 4.7GHz, with an idle mix of between 25-29* and normal load of around 55* - Prime'd at 68-75* not perfect but it's close to my 2600k and this is with low RPM / silent fan settings.
So now I'm finally up and running for good. No case rattling, no broken installs, no noise, no more nothing. This was the most draining PC build I've ever done ...
Re-install Windows again. Then a night of overclocking and slightly undervolting, finding some decent settings. Found some that puts the 3930k at 4.7GHz, with an idle mix of between 25-29* and normal load of around 55* - Prime'd at 68-75* not perfect but it's close to my 2600k and this is with low RPM / silent fan settings.
So now I'm finally up and running for good. No case rattling, no broken installs, no noise, no more nothing. This was the most draining PC build I've ever done ...
The loudness of mechanical keyboards with MX Reds (anything else just felt like a really well made rubber dome keyboard to me, because you still had that actuation point that I never knew I disliked before trying reds) is actually from the keys stopping, not an actual sound they inherently make. You can get a pack of o-rings for $20 and it will dampen the sound when you bottom out. That just adds to the cost though.
A CM Quickfire (this model doesn't have reds, but its all I could find with a quick search) + O-rings will cost you $95.
Hey. Kinda asked this already in Techsupport gaf but i just need some insurance.
I have one of the defective Haf X cases and just found out that all my computer freezes are due to me having to push my gpu towards the screwholes, creating a bad pci slot connection. Im currently have the video card unscrewed with the case lying on its side. I read that a solution is to bend the metal bracket for the card. Is that safe and how would you end up doing that? Card is a gtx580
I have one of the defective Haf X cases and just found out that all my computer freezes are due to me having to push my gpu towards the screwholes, creating a bad pci slot connection. Im currently have the video card unscrewed with the case lying on its side. I read that a solution is to bend the metal bracket for the card. Is that safe and how would you end up doing that? Card is a gtx580
How ould you use zip ties? Through the screwholes? Wouldnt that still be loose?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V4AK2K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Amazon lowered the price of the Asus VG236H to 305.99 for the new models. My amazon warehouse model doesn't come till Monday. Hope I didn't make a mistake. Would have totally went with this given a choice at the time.
SHAZBOT! And the 27 inch model has broken the psychological barrier of 600 and is selling for 594. I swear, prices always plummet whenever I make a PC purchase that I've been holding out on forever.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063BM5NK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm glad I got the VG236 cause it a was an upgrade path for my 3xVG236 setup. If I was going one screen the 27in would be the way to go.
Do some of you rich people want to be my token rich friend? I see all this gear, and could even be tempted to buy some of it if it wasn't a blind buy. I still don't even know of a single person who owns a 120hz monitor but from what I hear online it might force me into the dreaded 16:9 aspect ration instead of picking up more 16:10 IPS panels. Now if there was a 120hz IPS 16:10 display i would be in nirvana.
what about 16:3?
j2theizzay
Member
Just ordered my VG236H from Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236092
$306 after 15% off promo, plus there's a $30 rebate.
I JUST bought the 27 inch 2 weeks ago! I emailed Amazon for a price match! Thanks
. Hope I get it!
Arc07
Member
My build.
I need to order my parts by Monday but nobody has the ASUS GTX 680s in stock.
(I like ASUS products.)
I guess if I can find an ASUS 690 I'll go with that since, based on this review, "95% of the performance of the GTX 680 SLI at 5760x1200 and 96% of the performance at 2560x1600." Hopefully one of these pops up too.
I need to order my parts by Monday but nobody has the ASUS GTX 680s in stock.
(I like ASUS products.)
I guess if I can find an ASUS 690 I'll go with that since, based on this review, "95% of the performance of the GTX 680 SLI at 5760x1200 and 96% of the performance at 2560x1600." Hopefully one of these pops up too.
DiabolicalBagel
Member
Don't give up! 120Hz 16:10 IPS must come eventually. I'm still holding out hope that the LG DM92 will be a decent panel, although rumour suggests it'll be 1080p and 60Hz passive 3D.
If it is I'll probably just stick to my single 16:10 'til the end of time.
Hey PC-GAF. Building a PC has always been on my list of things to do and it seems like I finally might have the money to do so! It has been a while since I've actually looked at/built a desktop though, so advice would be appreciated :3
Not a complete list as there's a few things I'm confused about:
1. With front USB slots, how does that work exactly? I imagine that it's either the motherboard has front USB slots built in or you just wire the front USB slots to the ports on the motherboard. Which is why I kind of left the motherboard blank. Any suggestions for a particular type/brand would be nice.
2. Does the brand of the graphics card really matter? i.e. Are there any particular brands to avoid? I noticed a PNY brand on tigerdirect.com (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7191409&CatId=3585) and it seems to be the cheapest of all the places I checked but wasn't sure if the brand was trustworthy.
3. Is there a potentially better bang/buck graphics card I should get? Currently planning to play D3 at 1650x1050 and near max settings would be nice. There are a few other games I play too like SC2, RE6 (in the future), and a few steam games like Batman: AA/AC.
4. I was reading through comments about the Samsung F3 1TB and it seems like the one listed on newegg is actually a Seagate hard drive/not the spinpoint? Kinda wondering if this matters/what other 1TB hard drives are out there.
5. A suggestion for a case would be helpful. Kind of want something sleek and simplistic.
6. Is applying my own heatsink necessary? I'm currently not interested in overclocking (but may consider it in the future).
Sorry if the questions are kind of newbish. Any major revisions to what I have listed is appreciated. Thanks for the help!
- Price Range: < $1000
- CPU: Intel i5 2500K
- Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK
- RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance
- Graphics Card: GTX560Ti
- Hard Drive: Samsung F3 1TB
- PSU:Antec BP550 Plus 550W
- Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
- Case: Bitfenix Shinobi
Not a complete list as there's a few things I'm confused about:
1. With front USB slots, how does that work exactly? I imagine that it's either the motherboard has front USB slots built in or you just wire the front USB slots to the ports on the motherboard. Which is why I kind of left the motherboard blank. Any suggestions for a particular type/brand would be nice.
2. Does the brand of the graphics card really matter? i.e. Are there any particular brands to avoid? I noticed a PNY brand on tigerdirect.com (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7191409&CatId=3585) and it seems to be the cheapest of all the places I checked but wasn't sure if the brand was trustworthy.
3. Is there a potentially better bang/buck graphics card I should get? Currently planning to play D3 at 1650x1050 and near max settings would be nice. There are a few other games I play too like SC2, RE6 (in the future), and a few steam games like Batman: AA/AC.
4. I was reading through comments about the Samsung F3 1TB and it seems like the one listed on newegg is actually a Seagate hard drive/not the spinpoint? Kinda wondering if this matters/what other 1TB hard drives are out there.
5. A suggestion for a case would be helpful. Kind of want something sleek and simplistic.
6. Is applying my own heatsink necessary? I'm currently not interested in overclocking (but may consider it in the future).
Sorry if the questions are kind of newbish. Any major revisions to what I have listed is appreciated. Thanks for the help!
Glad it worked out!
I'll take a stab at your questions.
1. Most mobos have additional usb i/o connector ports near the front of the motherboard. Whatever case you have, the case's front usb ports must be connected to those usb connector ports on the motherboard. Look at your motherboard and/or case manual for more info.
2. For Nvidia cards, I usually pick EVGA. For Radeon cards, I usually go with Sapphire but any of the manufacturers will do. A lot of times, the manufacturers just follow the reference design boards.
3. I think the GTX 560Ti you selected will serve you well and is good value.
4. Seagate bought Samsung's hard drive division. Thus all future Samsung hdd will be branded Seagate. If its made in China, it probably came from a Seagate manufacturing plant. Only (2) major players left in the HDD market: Western Digital or Seagate so go with either brand.
5. There's been a lot of recommendations for the Fractal cases, which has a simple and sleek design.
6. Grab a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (~$25 - $30), your cpu will thank you later.
My build.
I need to order my parts by Monday but nobody has the ASUS GTX 680s in stock.
(I like ASUS products.)
I guess if I can find an ASUS 690 I'll go with that since, based on this review, "95% of the performance of the GTX 680 SLI at 5760x1200 and 96% of the performance at 2560x1600." Hopefully one of these pops up too.
680 http://ncix.com/products/?sku=69860&vpn=GTX680-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
690 http://ncix.com/products/?sku=71419&vpn=GTX690-4GD5&manufacture=ASUS
Doc Holliday
SPOILER: Columbus finds America
Holy crap i thought i was gpu limited on a i7 930 @ 3.5 amd 7970. Bf3 is so much smoother on a 3770k. Pleasantly surprised Didn't even fresh install!
Didn't even fresh install!- Status