If it ever goes on sale on the PS4, ill get it there later but I dont like racing on that console. I dont use a wheel and the PS4 controller is inferior for racing games.
No, I have no idea what the D1 patch does, no notes yet.
As t happens, Kevin raises that in the chat. But given you have the option to remove hands and zoom in, it's not so much of an issue. Certainly something to consider adding in the future.
No, I have no idea what the D1 patch does, no notes yet.
As t happens, Kevin raises that in the chat. But given you have the option to remove hands and in, its not so much of an issue. Certainly something to consider adding in the future.
Great, thanks, as long as I can replicate it (on PS4) using seat positioning / FOV, then I'm happy, to that end, are those position / FOV changes global, or are they saved per car?
Great, thanks, as long as I can replicate it (on PS4) using seat positioning / FOV, then I'm happy, to that end, are those position / FOV changes global, or are they saved per car?
Do you still use a joypad Dan? I thought it was mainly only wheel users who use that view, because it's daft having two wheels in front of you (real and virtual). Before VR if I used a pad in cockpit view (for quick testing, or whatever) I had to turn the visual wheel back on because of how odd it felt.
Do you still use a joypad Dan? I thought it was mainly only wheel users who use that view, because it's daft having two wheels in front of you (real and virtual). Before VR if I used a pad in cockpit view (for quick testing, or whatever) I had to turn the visual wheel back on because of how odd it felt.
Yeah, still use the pad, I prefer the more zoomed in view, don't really like the claustrophobic feeling of the complete interior view, if the dash view isn't there, I'll use bonnet cam.
I just feel there is too much wasted screen real estate on detail you don't need when using the interior view, feels like you are sitting miles away from the dash .
with my correct FOV, the interior view shows less dash than FM6 dash-cam,it's so "zoomed in"/narrow. I go off the correct FOV only a little bit and leave the onscreen wheel one, but only if it does at least 130° in each direction (so in some games I have to turn the arms off).
My problem with dashcams is how they're usually fixed in position - no camera turning depending on yaw and such. Then again, in Driveclub I like exactly this... idk it's weird.
One piece of advise for all newcomers (99% you out there). Immersive and Informative FFB settings have an autocalibration period where you will feel close to no FFB. In two/three laps you should start feeling things pretty good. So don't assume your wheel is not being detected or something like that.
Kudos to a user on GTPlanet for noticing that the Japanese PSN store has apparently revealed four of the upcoming expansions:
Fun Pack, Porsche Pack, Le Mans Icons, Ferrari Expansion
Two of these match up with what Ian Bell has hinted at, so color me excited, (silly as it is anticipating future DLC when the game itself is only just about to be released).
Kudos to a user on GTPlanet for noticing that the Japanese PSN store has apparently revealed four of the upcoming expansions:
Fun Pack, Porsche Pack, Le Mans Icons, Ferrari Expansion
Two of these match up with what Ian Bell has hinted at, so color me excited, (silly as it is anticipating future DLC when the game itself is only just about to be released).
One piece of advise for all newcomers (99% you out there). Immersive and Informative FFB settings have an autocalibration period where you will feel close to no FFB. In two/three laps you should start feeling things pretty good. So don't assume your wheel is not being detected or something like that.
RAW would be the equivalent of rFactor's "RealFeel" idea of FFB if I understand that right. If I can't get that to work with the gain/volume/tone sliders, I might refund that whole thing actually. Not interested in mixing the ideas that Forza and GT have about how FFB should feel into correct FFB. If RAW doesn't work, then it's either the physics or a badly distorted way of compressing the full wheel-torque range into the range that my puny Thrustmaster wheels can put out... but probably.. probably it's still the pCARS physics then.
I'm not sure Assetto Corsa fans get it either. It's there, but not raw enough in AC. Once you tried the USF2000 in rFactor 2 or an open wheeler (or the Boxer, the Boxer!!!) in Automobilista on something like Oulton Park, with the force feedback turned to the absolute max (only so that it doesn't or just barely) clip... also lower the default smoothing and put some minimum wheel force on it (more if you're wheel is not on the high end of torque)... really, you start understanding what FFB should do to feel good, be realistic and help you drive better and intuitively make you do the right thing in case of emergency.
Faked FFB information - from the rear tires, the lateral g, the yaw angle, understeer lightness or traction-loss vibration, all of it(!) all the info you wouldn't have on a real steering wheel is not necessary(!), if the game's physics are good.
Ok, good camera movement should be there too, that extra sense of yaw is important.
One piece of advise for all newcomers (99% you out there). Immersive and Informative FFB settings have an autocalibration period where you will feel close to no FFB. In two/three laps you should start feeling things pretty good. So don't assume your wheel is not being detected or something like that.
So does it automatically go into auto calibration for your first race or is auto calibration something you choose in settings? Either way, good to know because I would have gone into troubleshooting mode prior to waiting for a few laps.
RAW would be the equivalent of rFactor's "RealFeel" idea of FFB if I understand that right. If I can't get that to work with the gain/volume/tone sliders, I might refund that whole thing actually. Not interested in mixing the ideas that Forza and GT have about how FFB should feel into correct FFB. If RAW doesn't work, then it's either the physics or a badly distorted way of compressing the full wheel-torque range into the range that my puny Thrustmaster wheels can put out... but probably.. probably it's still the pCARS physics then.
I'm not sure Assetto Corsa fans get it either. It's there, but not raw enough in AC. Once you tried the USF2000 in rFactor 2 or an open wheeler (or the Boxer, the Boxer!!!) in Automobilista on something like Oulton Park, with the force feedback turned to the absolute max (only so that it doesn't or just barely) clip... also lower the default smoothing and put some minimum wheel force on it (more if you're wheel is not on the high end of torque)... really, you start understanding what FFB should do to feel good, be realistic and help you drive better and intuitively make you do the right thing in case of emergency.
Faked FFB information - from the rear tires, the lateral g, the yaw angle, understeer lightness or traction-loss vibration, all of it(!) all the info you wouldn't have on a real steering wheel is not necessary(!), if the game's physics are good.
Ok, good camera movement should be there too, that extra sense of yaw is important.
I'm not with you there. I don't think these modes are meant to compensate lack of physics reactions, but lack of wheel physical reactions. I would only recommend RAW to people with high end wheels that don't need any kind of filter to offer both subtle and harsh reactions with adecuate levels. Middle and lower tier wheels don't have the same level of precission. For istance, I would never recommend RAW for a DFGT user, even for a T300RS user like myself I would suggest trying both Informative and Raw and picking what feels better to you. Immersive doesn't feel right to me with my wheel. Not at all. But maybe for DFGT users it's the best option? I don't know.
So does it automatically go into auto calibration for your first race or is auto calibration something you choose in settings? Either way, good to know because I would have gone into troubleshooting mode prior to waiting for a few laps.
So does it automatically go into auto calibration for your first race or is auto calibration something you choose in settings? Either way, good to know because I would have gone into troubleshooting mode prior to waiting for a few laps.
Wheel users should do most important thing in options menu: adjust sensitivity (which is linearity) to 100 from defaulted 50.
Also, I can't understand why is linearity set to 50 at all for default.
Also, Fanatec users should set their SEN value to OFF for any wheel they are using. Also, I would persobally recommend having SPR to 1, while having all other effects to OFF or O.
I'm not with you there. I don't think these modes are meant to compensate lack of physics reactions, but lack of wheel physical reactions. I would only recommend RAW to people with high end wheels that don't need any kind of filter to offer both subtle and harsh reactions with adecuate levels. Middle and lower tier wheels don't have the same level of precission. For istance, I would never recommend RAW for a DFGT user, even for a T300RS user like myself I would suggest trying both Informative and Raw and picking what feels better to you. Immersive doesn't feel right to me with my wheel. Not at all. But maybe for DFGT users it's the best option? I don't know.
Ok, I'll try RAW, fiddle with it, if it feels wrong or if the transition from low to how is bad (that's a big problem pCARS1 had and AnythingBut experienced with RAW on his stream too, the way those 25Nm get compressed into the 4Nm T300 range needs to be non-linear, but it was done in an unclever non-linear way), then I'll give Informative a shot, but I'll be double sceptical about whatever they mix in there. RaceRoom's FFB is also not RealFeel'ish, but it's mostly pretty good for the cars they have in there and doesn't mix in any bullshit information (or at least I can configure it that way and it still feels kinda nice). I could accept that level of "baked" FFB in pCARS2.
Helped out a ton (especially the section on the racing line), and opened up a whole new world for me.
And the nice thing about real world tracks is there are videos out there of drivers walking the course, identifying braking points, special features and pitfalls to watch out for, tactics for attacking certain segments, etc. Never grew up watching motorsport, so games and the videos I used to get a handle on techniques have been my window in.
Funny side bit: I actually started watching Top Gear purely to help me choose which cars to drive in games like Forza and GT because the car rosters were just overwhelming. It helped! Got to learn what the different manufacturers were known for, the big rivalries, the all time classics, etc. Of course I got completely hooked too.
Overwhelmed by the content...except my trusted McLaren 12C GT3 is missing. That was going to be my baseline comparison from Project CARS. Never mind, it's got the newer McLaren 650S GT3 instead.
At last as well, I can used a Bentley. I don't know why but I love using those boats in racing games.
Im torn . The Forza demo really disappointed me with the FFB. So Im looking to get PCars2 now, but I really like a meaty game with a wide selection of bog standard everyday normal guy cars. Really want the 2017/18 Focus RS in a game and Im pretty sure Its in Forza but not in PCars2 at least the list I saw didnt have it.
Ordered the game yesterday on amazon uk but its saying Saturday delivery, status is not yet despatched. Looking on the xbox store they have it for £49.99 incl the Japenese car pack. I'm assuming that this will be a digital download? which I don't mind if I can get the game earlier than Saturday.
