Castor Krieg
Banned
Going later to post pictures of things that I have, I played a bit with papercut models, so I got OLFA knife, etc. Even got a cutting mat! Then by the weekend I might pop to store and see what they have!
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Plastic Scale Modeling Age |OT| Planes, tanks, cars, sci-fi & more
- Thread starter Wubby
- Start date
It is a Scopedog from Votoms, which is an anime series that has a mech driving Rambo running around trying to get his woman back from a space pope.
I use both a setting and softener solution for my decals. They work great in tandem to get decals to adhere to uneven surfaces and helps prevent silvering.
Most important tip I can give for decaling is to make sure you have a nice, glossy smooth surface on your model before you start. The smoother the surface the less problems you will have. An easy and relatively cheap way is to use Johnson's Klear, which is a brand of floorwax. Just brush paint it or airbrush a few coats on your model after your done with your main paintwork. This also has the added benefit of protecting your paintwork.
As for sandpaper - to be honest I stopped using sandpaper years ago - sanding sticks and sponges are really the best way to go about it.
Yes, sanding does scar up the plastic, but unless you are using extremely low grit it shouldn't demolish the surface (IE do not use sandpaper designed for woodworking) In fact, progressively sanding using finer and finer grits is a common method for creating extremely smooth surfaces. Think of it like buffing scratches out of a car. I've even sanded on clear parts to remove mold lines and the parts remain crystal clear after buffing up with some polishing paste.
I see. Seems like a good way to jump back into the hobby.
Nothing wrong with the 109! I have a few in the stash, all 1/72 scale.
You're welcome! I agree with you on the price of Lego. And what you get in the end somehow always comes out looking rather blocky for some reason. MOCs are a bit harder to do in scale modeling though. But lots of choices for kits out there!
OMG, I've been waiting for a thread like this. Subscribed!
Been modelling for 5 years now since I "returned" to the hobby (ok ok, so the last time before that was with my dad...and it was more like I watched him put a plane together...and I got to glue a few things, but still!) I find it's a very cost effective hobby since 1 kit can take you hours to complete, so real bang for your buck.
My preferred area is 1:48+ scale aircraft. Recently picked up this:
the new 1:32 Tamiya P-51D Mustang, what a beautifully crafted kit!
I'd been waiting for a thread like this too all through my time as a junior and afterwards too. Finally bit the bullet and typed one up myself. Took much longer to make than I thought it would.
I'm a 1/72 scale guy myself. I rather like the collectability the smaller scale gives me. I do have a few 48s in the stash though. I do want to build that Mustang and Tamiya 32 Zero someday. Best kits in 32nd scale, until Tamiyas next release anyway!
My original draft of the OP had a mention of possibly doing group builds in the future if there is enough interest. I edited it out somewhere a long the way though. The original OP was way too long.
But yeah would be fun. We could start with something very basic and cheap to hopefully get new people interested. Something like a Hasegawa Egg Plane group build maybe.
http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?GenreCode2=all&Word=Egg+Plane
Ah I guess you're from Europe then if you are calling it Johnson's Klear. In the US it's called Future. Now you'll find it at Kmart and its bottle will say 'Pledge floor care tile & vinyl with Future'. If you are in Japan though like me you're out of luck since it's not sold here.
More info here for those interested in Klear/Future:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
btw thanks for helping answer questions. It's especially hard for me now that I only have one hand to type for the next week.
ah, I've heard of using Klear for clear coating RC cars - I guess the concept is the same.
I just started building a DC-3 this weekend, my first model in years (and only second overall, first one was a botched 737 with the glue almost completely whiting out the cockpit glass, plus unpainted) so I'm learning as I go.
I got acrylic tamiya paints as the store I went to didn't have any Revell, so the colors aren't all as required on the box. Had a bit of a struggle trying to figure out how to paint the interior, it always seemed too watery with the white plastic still quite visible but I managed to figure it out (more paint on the brush!)
It seems pretty fun though, I think I'll keep going and try to build all the ones I got over the years
I got acrylic tamiya paints as the store I went to didn't have any Revell, so the colors aren't all as required on the box. Had a bit of a struggle trying to figure out how to paint the interior, it always seemed too watery with the white plastic still quite visible but I managed to figure it out (more paint on the brush!)
It seems pretty fun though, I think I'll keep going and try to build all the ones I got over the years
Here's a fantastic reference I use often for matching different brands of paints
http://www.paint4models.com/
Honestly While I love the Tamiya acrylics they not that great for brush painting. They are really designed for airbrushes. The Games Workshop paints for miniatures though are fantastic.
http://www.paint4models.com/
Honestly While I love the Tamiya acrylics they not that great for brush painting. They are really designed for airbrushes. The Games Workshop paints for miniatures though are fantastic.
They have a F-16 Fighting Falcon with dutch decals. I'm in. Thing would be perfect for decoration on my desk at work.
lastplayed
Member
Here's a few pics of the 1/35 M7 Priest my brother is building. The flash makes it look a lot brighter than it actually is, but you get the idea.
I wish I had a few shots before it was painted, just so you could see the extra resin and brass pieces he attached to it, it's a pretty full on job. All the ammo is brass and bought separately.
I wish I had a few shots before it was painted, just so you could see the extra resin and brass pieces he attached to it, it's a pretty full on job. All the ammo is brass and bought separately.
Castor Krieg
Banned
That's it, off to the store I go. Any recommendations from Revell line for first model?
Get something in 1:72. They are pretty simple and don't cost too much so you won't be breaking the bank. Something like their Red Arrows Hawk might be good since it's also one overall color scheme.
Castor Krieg
Banned
Looks great! Will try and find it, or something else with limited range of colours.
Femmeworth
Banned
Lovely thread.
Tamiya doesn't really make good metal colors, but what your looking for is something called Alclad. They are metallic, super fine pigmentation lacquer based paints. Gunze-Sangyo also does a range of similar paints.
I collect 1/18 scale cars and sometimes build 1/24 scale.
I'm a car enthusiast, not a model enthusiast so basically I just buy what I think is cool. A few of them are rare and I have a couple of Franklin Mint models but for the most part they're inexpensive and just there for the looks.
Can't buy more until I make more room though. I have close to 60 models on display and have no more space for more.
I'm a car enthusiast, not a model enthusiast so basically I just buy what I think is cool. A few of them are rare and I have a couple of Franklin Mint models but for the most part they're inexpensive and just there for the looks.
Can't buy more until I make more room though. I have close to 60 models on display and have no more space for more.
How will you be painting these legos though? If you're just going to brush paint the figures you may be better off with something silver from the new Citadel line of paints. Alclad and the Super Metallics are more meant for airbrushing.
I agree Tamiyas Acrylic chrome silver is no good. Tamiyas Enamel chrome silver has much finer flakes but good luck finding it outside Japan.
I'm in Australia which doesn't have the widest selection of products to choose from, I only need a tiny amount too, enough to paint a head pieces which amounts to about 2ml worth.
Actually I think Aus does have a decent paint selection. At least that's what I've heard. Being closer to Japan I heard you can get a lot of the same stuff we have here.
One option I forgot which may be perfect for you is Tamiya Paint Marker x-11. It's an enamel paint that's not speckly (imo, compared to the acrylic one). I use it for touch-ups and small paint jobs like silver strips on landing gear. Just pump a few dabs on your paint tray then use a brush to apply.
GoldenEye 007
Member
I used to have a scale model set of the Saturn V and space shuttle vehicles. Botched the paint job on the Saturn V and later got rid of it. Really fun to put together, though!
I botch paint jobs all the time. Just tonight I was painting a Kawasaki T-4 only to realize after pulling off the masking tape that it was off by a bit. Not going to bother fixing it though. I just want this kit done it's taken up too much time as it is.
lastplayed
Member
Just finished building my Tamiya Pz III, complete with rifled barrel.
Now for the make or break part... the painting.
Now for the make or break part... the painting.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
I got to try some of these again. I had a model of the marshmellow man from ghostbusters. Some guy messed it up from before, I got most of the paint off but there was still some discoloration so I painted it white to cover over the imperfections.
Callibretto
Member
I remember making some of these when I was young, I never bother painting it at all since buying all the paint in various color seems very expensive, then I also saw people using airbrush etc, it just more than I can afford.
this thread kinda make me want to give it a try again. any idea what tool to buy, some kinda of starter kit that's good for beginner or something. also, any tips on painting and airbrushing would be great.
this thread kinda make me want to give it a try again. any idea what tool to buy, some kinda of starter kit that's good for beginner or something. also, any tips on painting and airbrushing would be great.
Picked this up last week. Had been one of my holy grail kits for a while. Story is Bandai lost the old Arii molds in the late 80's but recently an old Bandai employee who also used to be an Arii employee tracked down the Arii molds in a warehouse.
I remember wanting this one as a kid in the US where it was called the Robotech Armored Factory. I have another 1/100 scale Macross kit to go with it.
I remember wanting this one as a kid in the US where it was called the Robotech Armored Factory. I have another 1/100 scale Macross kit to go with it.
Castor Krieg
Banned
My haul from yesterday (I had the mat and the knife before):
Two questions:
1. In the instructions they mentioned using Contacta Clear glue, which I assume is liquid glue you apply with a brush. I bought Contacta Professional, is there a difference? Am I good using the one I have now?
2. When do you paint? I noticed lastplayed assembled the model first, should I do the same? Also, I bought the colors mentioned on the box, but the instruction does not give any clues about how to paint. Should I with common sense?
Two questions:
1. In the instructions they mentioned using Contacta Clear glue, which I assume is liquid glue you apply with a brush. I bought Contacta Professional, is there a difference? Am I good using the one I have now?
2. When do you paint? I noticed lastplayed assembled the model first, should I do the same? Also, I bought the colors mentioned on the box, but the instruction does not give any clues about how to paint. Should I with common sense?
lastplayed
Member
I used to paint the separate parts while I was building, but the disadvantage of that is it can make parts harder to glue, and you can mess up the paint job requiring more work.
I now assemble the whole thing first, then paint with an airbrush and complete the detailed work with fine brushes. It might be more difficult with a car and its open interior though, you'd probably want to paint that before it's inside the body.
My Pz III isn't all glued yet. The top hull, turret, figure, and tracks can all be removed to help with paining, but they will be glued eventually.
I now assemble the whole thing first, then paint with an airbrush and complete the detailed work with fine brushes. It might be more difficult with a car and its open interior though, you'd probably want to paint that before it's inside the body.
My Pz III isn't all glued yet. The top hull, turret, figure, and tracks can all be removed to help with paining, but they will be glued eventually.
My haul from yesterday (I had the mat and the knife before):
Two questions:
1. In the instructions they mentioned using Contacta Clear glue, which I assume is liquid glue you apply with a brush. I bought Contacta Professional, is there a difference? Am I good using the one I have now?
2. When do you paint? I noticed lastplayed assembled the model first, should I do the same? Also, I bought the colors mentioned on the box, but the instruction does not give any clues about how to paint. Should I with common sense?
1. Not the same unfortunately. I'm personally not really familiar with the Revell supplies since they don't sell them here but I could guess what the Contacta Clear meant and google confirmed. The Contacta Clear is a glue for clear parts like the windscreen. Regular plastic cement (Contacta Professional) can cause clear parts to fog/crack. You can also use a white/clear pvc glue like Elmers glue for clear parts.
2. For a car you will need to paint some parts first before assembly. Things that will be too hard to paint after it's glued like the engine, interior parts. Any chrome parts may be easier to paint before attaching as well.
Have a look around some model forums in the 'works in progress' (WIP) section. You will see the stages others put things together.
A google search found this wip for another 540k:
http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/index.php?component=content&topicid=22397&highlight=
Here's a popular car modeling forum with a few WIP sub forums:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=927
Hope this helps! Good luck and have fun! Post pics as you build if you have the time / don't mind.
Castor Krieg
Banned
Ok, so I can use Contacta Professional to glue the parts together, but for transparent/clear parts I should use Contacta Clear, is that correct?
Thanks for the links, I will check them oout.
Thanks for the links, I will check them oout.
You don't really need to spend on special glue for clear parts - As Wubby pointed out, Elmer's Glue (the stuff you probably used as a kid) works pretty well. It dries totally clear and won't fog up clear parts, and is dirt cheap compared to specialized glues.
Castor Krieg
Banned
I don't have Elmer's Glue where I live, but I will get some standard liquid glue for clear parts then.
Razgriz-Specter
Member
Thanks
lastplayed
Member
Just dusted off my NX Enterprise I finished last year.
It was a pretty simple build, I kept the paint and decals to a minimum. Quite a nice little kit.
It was a pretty simple build, I kept the paint and decals to a minimum. Quite a nice little kit.
I always liked the design on that Enterprise. Too bad the show was ehh...
Still waiting to see your painted Tamiya Pz III. Not much a tank builder. Though I kinda fins it fascinating you can assemble the whole thing before paint. Aircraft you have to deal with that cockpit/interior before putting it together.
I may give a tank a go here soon just to try something different. Picked up a Tamiya 1/48 M4 Sherman last week. Looks like an easy build though I'm sure I'll screw something up.
Also picked this up. Not really a modern jet fan but I'm a sucker for new Hasegawa kits that are 30% off. Still can't do much till I get this brace off my left hand.
Damn this thread. Now I've spent the last week looking at models. Always wanted a Spinner. Fujimi makes a 1/24 kit which someone made a photo-etched set for:
http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ09132
However, I also found this:
http://randycoopermodels.com/content/blade-runner-spinner
So...who wants to buy that for me? Anyone? C'mooooooooooooon.
http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ09132
However, I also found this:
http://randycoopermodels.com/content/blade-runner-spinner
So...who wants to buy that for me? Anyone? C'mooooooooooooon.
Yikes! $475.00 for that resin kit. I'd stick with Fujimi....
BUT IT'S SO PUUUUUUUURTY.
Still undecided on the Fujimi. Mostly because I'm remembering all those unfinished kits I mentioned earlier. Still, really would like a scale Spinner.
Good news for the hobby in the US! I'm hearing that Walmart is going to start selling model kits again!! While I'm sure it's going to be all Revell/Monogram cars and planes it's better than nothing.
Not incredible for most serious modelers but good news considering how many kids got their start on modeling with kits from places like Walmart, myself included.
Not incredible for most serious modelers but good news considering how many kids got their start on modeling with kits from places like Walmart, myself included.
Got the mono-eye parts, metal shoulder spikes, and additional decals from a online shop called Mecha Skunk. Unfortunately, I think he's closed his shop. Luckily for me, I was able to grab more things before it did.
Wubby, do you have any tips on doing camouflage with normal brush? I've already assembled and painted my Spitfire, but I'd like to try some camo on it. The build itself is rather poor (as it should, since it's my first), but I bought the same kit twice so I can see how much I improve.
Been awhile since I assembled a scale model kit. I do play things like 40k though that involves modeling.
Think I might pick up a Gundam kit or something to get back into the hobby. Or maybe something from Gurren Lagann/Code Geass. I'm thinking a Zaku though, my favorite mobile suit of all time.
Is there a good site for reviews of kits?
Think I might pick up a Gundam kit or something to get back into the hobby. Or maybe something from Gurren Lagann/Code Geass. I'm thinking a Zaku though, my favorite mobile suit of all time.
Is there a good site for reviews of kits?
Hmm with a brush you say? If it were me I'd take a pencil and draw the outlines of the camouflage pattern on the model before you start painting. That way you can check to see if the pattern is acceptable before painting.
I don't know what kind of paint you will be using. I use Mr Color/Mr Hobby/Tamiya acrylics and lacquers mainly, and both aren't very well suited for brush painting. Vallejo model color acrylics are well suited for brush painting I've heard but I have yet to try (too expensive in Japan).
Personally I find the key with brush painting is to have a suitable thinner that already has a paint retarder mixed in (like GSI Creos Mr Color leveling thinner) or thinner plus a bottle of retarder to mix in. The retarder helps keep the paint from drying too fast and level out the paint after it's been brushed on reducing brush stroke lines on the kit. I like to start with thin coats. Like one part paint two two parts thinner (depends on the paint). Try to brush in a uniform pattern (like front to back) and not repeating over wet paint. Brush on one coat, let it dry, then another layer and repeat till you get the look you want.
You can always test it out on a spare piece of plastic before trying on the kit.
A bit time consuming but acrylics/lacquers generally dry pretty fast. If you just paint straight out of the bottle it's going to look very thick and have lots of brush lines (from what I've seen anyway).
For brush painting a camo scheme my preferred method of attack would be to start on the edges of the camo and work your way in.
Wubby's advice is on the dot. For brush painting, I recommend using Citadel paints - these are the Game Workshop brand paints for Warhammer miniatures, but they brush extremely well. Tamiya / Mr. Color and others are really designed for airbrushing and are difficult to work with on large areas for brush painting - I do brush paint with them however for small detail work such as cockpits.
For camo work - my general rule of thumb is to start with the lightest color first, and then finish with the darkest. The reason being is that covering light paint with dark paint is very easy, but is a lot more difficult the other way around, as the dark paint will tend to show through.
I honestly have never attempted brush painting camo, but I suppose the best way is to either use some sort of hard masks or just to simply freehand it. Mind you that would only work for hard-line camo (ie no blending in between colors). I have no idea how to achieve a soft-edge camo scheme with brush painting.