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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

I still haven't gotten to Horizon, but I've been playing a ton of No Man's Sky, Resogun and Last of Us Remaster since switching to RGB 2160 and ditching YUV 420 like you said (now I'm defaulted to YUV 422)... still no black screens, but if it eventually happens I'll definitely come in and cosign.

Also, I'm pretty glad I switched to this setting... feel like I am getting an ever so slightly better color and IQ experience. It's like I've got most of the eyepopping HDR I love back, but with less of the kind of fuzzy edge I'd just thought was part of the deal all this time. Glad this thread is here.
 

bubumiao

Member

bubumiao

Member
I still haven't gotten to Horizon, but I've been playing a ton of No Man's Sky, Resogun and Last of Us Remaster since switching to RGB 2160 and ditching YUV 420 like you said (now I'm defaulted to YUV 422)... still no black screens, but if it eventually happens I'll definitely come in and cosign.

Also, I'm pretty glad I switched to this setting... feel like I am getting an ever so slightly better color and IQ experience. It's like I've got most of the eyepopping HDR I love back, but with less of the kind of fuzzy edge I'd just thought was part of the deal all this time. Glad this thread is here.

Just to clarify, I should be using RGB while using my PS4 Pro unless playing HDR games and in that case switch to YUV420?
 
Just to clarify, I should be using RGB while using my PS4 Pro unless playing HDR games and in that case switch to YUV420?

I'd been using YUV 420 since about February, but from what I've learned in the last couple days, selecting RGB is uncompressed and too much for HDMI 2.0/a to transfer, resulting in the PS4 Pro actually switching to YUV 422, which is slightly better than YUV 420:

DAfXyCyXcAAFQud.jpg

After a few days of using it now, I'm pretty sure I like the results better. I still get all the eye popping, rich color, but less of a saturated, slightly fuzzy edges look... almost like the colors don't bleed together as much.

Try both in a game you're really familiar with the visuals of, and see what you like, but I think I'm 100% sold on RGB 2160/YUV 422. So I say just set it to RGB and leave it that way.
 

tiku

Member
I'd been using YUV 420 since about February, but from what I've learned in the last couple days, selecting RGB is uncompressed and too much for HDMI 2.0/a to transfer, resulting in the PS4 Pro actually switching to YUV 422, which is slightly better than YUV 420:



After a few days of using it now, I'm pretty sure I like the results better. I still get all the eye popping, rich color, but less of a saturated, slightly fuzzy edges look... almost like the colors don't bleed together as much.

Try both in a game you're really familiar with the visuals of, and see what you like, but I think I'm 100% sold on RGB 2160/YUV 422. So I say just set it to RGB and leave it that way.

Yep, I bought my PS4 Pro two days ago and with "Auto", the usual output when playing HDR games is YUV 422 and I'm fine with it.The quality is astonishing.

BTW, FFXV without frame pacing issues as I was suffering with my old PS4 Fat makes a big, big difference :)
 

Yoday

Member
Yep, I bought my PS4 Pro two days ago and with "Auto", the usual output when playing HDR games is YUV 422 and I'm fine with it.The quality is astonishing.

BTW, FFXV without frame pacing issues as I was suffering with my old PS4 Fat makes a big, big difference :)
How can you tell it's running in YUV 422 while in auto?
 

Yoday

Member
Go to video settings on PS4 Pro whilst a HDR game is running and select 'video output information'.
Ah, I thought maybe it was a hidden TV feature. I'm on my Xbox 99% of the time, so I didn't even know such a thing existed on PS4. I'll have to check that out.
 

mckmas8808

Banned
I'd been using YUV 420 since about February, but from what I've learned in the last couple days, selecting RGB is uncompressed and too much for HDMI 2.0/a to transfer, resulting in the PS4 Pro actually switching to YUV 422, which is slightly better than YUV 420:



After a few days of using it now, I'm pretty sure I like the results better. I still get all the eye popping, rich color, but less of a saturated, slightly fuzzy edges look... almost like the colors don't bleed together as much.

Try both in a game you're really familiar with the visuals of, and see what you like, but I think I'm 100% sold on RGB 2160/YUV 422. So I say just set it to RGB and leave it that way.

That's for breaking this down so simply.
 

Amneisac

Member
So, I'm recently in the market for a new TV. I've been staying intentionally ignorant of 4K stuff because I haven't wanted to temp myself, but I guess it's finally time.

My question is I have this receiver: YAMAHA RX-A740 7.2 Network AVENTAGE AV Receiver Wi-Fi/AirPlay (YAMRXA740BL) and here is my concern from the literature about this receiver:

This model will support HDMI 2.0 connectivity. It supports 4K Ultra HD 50 Hz/60 Hz signal pass-through to output motion-smooth high definition videos. It also supports RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4, YCbCr 4:2:2 as well as YCbCr 4:2:0 video signal for more vibrant and lifelike images.

Additionally, it isn't HDCP 2.2 compatible and I'm really not sure what kind of experience I should expect passing the video through this receiver. I have a 7.1 audio setup currently. I'd hate to get into a situation where I obsolete my receiver because of the HDCP 2.2 thing.

Would it be worth upgrading to a KS7000/KS8000 or should I just keep going with my Panasonic plasma? I really don't want to buy a new receiver and TV now. I'm only in the market for a TV, but if my receiver is going to hold me back now or in the near future I'll just hold off on a TV purchase and keep gaming at 1080p. I do have a PS4 Pro.

Edit to add: What's a typical price for the 55" KS8000, I see it for $999 new.
 

Belker

Member
My UK KS7000/ US K8 automatically updated itself to 1169, even though auto update was turned off.

Now the Netflix app is buggered and Now TV is broken too. Netflix just presents a black screen, Now TV has unresponsive jumbled menus, where trying to navigate left will take you right. Amazon Video is glitching and beeping over bluetooth audio and had a black screen for a moment.

This is the worst the apps have been.
 
Now the Netflix app is buggered and Now TV is broken too. Netflix just presents a black screen, Now TV has unresponsive jumbled menus, where trying to navigate left will take you right. Amazon Video is glitching and beeping over bluetooth audio and had a black screen for a moment.

Try resetting your SmartHub. Its in the TV menus somewhere. You'll have to sign into everything again but it might fix your issues.

Should i use full or limited rgb on my ps3, with my ks8000? Settings for dummies please.

As long as the PS3 and TV agree on the format then it doesn't matter much.

PS3 Full -> KS8000 Black level Normal
PS3 Limited-> KS8000 Black level Low

I go Full/Normal but everything I've read says there's not much difference between the two.
 

bubumiao

Member
I'd been using YUV 420 since about February, but from what I've learned in the last couple days, selecting RGB is uncompressed and too much for HDMI 2.0/a to transfer, resulting in the PS4 Pro actually switching to YUV 422, which is slightly better than YUV 420:



After a few days of using it now, I'm pretty sure I like the results better. I still get all the eye popping, rich color, but less of a saturated, slightly fuzzy edges look... almost like the colors don't bleed together as much.

Try both in a game you're really familiar with the visuals of, and see what you like, but I think I'm 100% sold on RGB 2160/YUV 422. So I say just set it to RGB and leave it that way.

That's for breaking this down so simply.

I'll fool around with it some tomorrow night after work. Thanks!
 
PS4 Pro:
RGB Range: Full

KS8000:
HDMI Level: Normal

Is that combination correct? Turning HDMI level to low or auto causes black crush but makes the picture pop more.
 

Orayn

Member
PS4 Pro:
RGB Range: Full

KS8000:
HDMI Level: Normal

Is that combination correct? Turning HDMI level to low or auto causes black crush but makes the picture pop more.

I use auto, which sets it to low for my PS4 Pro. AFAIK most other people in this thread are also using low for PS4 and normal for XB1.
 

Belker

Member
Try resetting your SmartHub. Its in the TV menus somewhere. You'll have to sign into everything again but it might fix your issues.

I've not had a chance to test properly, but that did seem to solve it. Everything was working as normal. Thanks for the advice; I was getting the smart hub and the one connect box confused and didn't want to reset the wrong thing.
 

philm87

Member
PS4 Pro:
RGB Range: Full

KS8000:
HDMI Level: Normal

Is that combination correct? Turning HDMI level to low or auto causes black crush but makes the picture pop more.

If you turn the HDMI level to low on the tv with the RGB range full on the PS4 it's similar to turning the brightness really low. If you want a similar pop effect without as much black crush, dynamic contrast will give you this.
 

Aske

Member
I don't think you can turn it off. I've disagreed to every T&C and they've still appeared. Blocking in the firewall may be the only way.

Update to this: more experimentation needed, but I think I'm observing that the TV has tied ad preferences to Samsung Account info rather than TV settings. I think the ad shows up when I turn the TV on, but disappears when it connects to the internet and signs into my Samsung Account. You know, the opposite of how it should be. I think the last ad must stay in the TV's cache rather than being refreshed every time you turn the TV on.

Wonder how much Samsung is charging Amazon for the privilege of force-feeding ads to people who paid thousands of dollars for their TVs.
 

CrayToes

Member
Ugh. I simply cannot get 1440p to work on this display. I've tried a few different cables. I've messed around with the settings in Nvidia control panel but absolutely no luck.
 

Tarkus

Member
I like watching movies with no processing; however, I think things Planet Earth II look better with motion plus and some anti judder. Call me crazy. I also prefer 4K things at 30 or 60 Hz.
 

chaosaeon

Member
I'd been using YUV 420 since about February, but from what I've learned in the last couple days, selecting RGB is uncompressed and too much for HDMI 2.0/a to transfer, resulting in the PS4 Pro actually switching to YUV 422, which is slightly better than YUV 420:



After a few days of using it now, I'm pretty sure I like the results better. I still get all the eye popping, rich color, but less of a saturated, slightly fuzzy edges look... almost like the colors don't bleed together as much.

Try both in a game you're really familiar with the visuals of, and see what you like, but I think I'm 100% sold on RGB 2160/YUV 422. So I say just set it to RGB and leave it that way.


Uh, I switched to RGB 2160 on PS4 and tested Horizon, it does say YUV 422 in the info, however, I then switched from RGB to AUTO, restarted the game, and it still does YUV 422 anyway .... sooo ... what are you talking about ? Lol. It looks like auto does 422 anyway.
 

M_A_C

Member
Ugh. I simply cannot get 1440p to work on this display. I've tried a few different cables. I've messed around with the settings in Nvidia control panel but absolutely no luck.

I couldn't either until I got a new videocard. Went from 780ti to a GTX 1080. I think it has to do with the hdmi bandwidth of the older cards.
 

Heel

Member
I then switched from RGB to AUTO, restarted the game, and it still does YUV 422 anyway .... sooo ... what are you talking about ? Lol. It looks like auto does 422 anyway.

It does.

Setting the TV and PS4 Pro to Automatic on all color/video settings will boot you to RGB, YUV422 when starting an HDR game, and back to RGB when you close an HDR game.

That's all you have to do.
 
Uh, I switched to RGB 2160 on PS4 and tested Horizon, it does say YUV 422 in the info, however, I then switched from RGB to AUTO, restarted the game, and it still does YUV 422 anyway .... sooo ... what are you talking about ? Lol. It looks like auto does 422 anyway.

It does, but I like to be sure I'm not going to be switching resolutions and color formats from game to game, or ever wondering if I'm not getting the picture IQ that I want, from the picture settings I nail down on my TV. Some games are 1080p, some are SDR, some decide what Pro benefits they're going to give you based on what your resolution is set to. So I want mine set in stone.

If you don't want to do that and feel comfortable, don't. That's just what I do.
 

chaosaeon

Member
It does, but I like to be sure I'm not going to be switching resolutions and color formats from game to game, or ever wondering if I'm not getting the picture IQ that I want, from the picture settings I nail down on my TV. Some games are 1080p, some are SDR, some decide what Pro benefits they're going to give you based on what your resolution is set to. So I want mine set in stone.

If you don't want to do that and feel comfortable, don't. That's just what I do.

Ohh okay, I thought you were saying that with it set to auto it would mistakenly go to 420 instead of 422 or that setting it to RGB was the only way to make sure it was 422. Does that ever happen actually ? Like a game outputting 420 under auto when it should be 422 ?
 

Belker

Member
Anyone else having weird issues with HDR on No Man's Sky on normal PS4?

I booted it up yesterday after a long time without playing and before the most recent patch. There were long rectangles across the screen, with occasional vertical gaps in them. There was also shape that looked like a T-drop from Tetris.

These were the same colour as the background in the game - looking at a planet from space, looking at the clouds - but a darker shade. They stayed static as I moved the camera.

Today I tried it with the latest patch and played during the day, so there was a bit more light in the room. I couldnt' see those same shaps, but when in cockpit I saw verticle rectangles on the side of the TV and a staggered gradient of bands in the corners. The top of the cockpit also had very fine horizontal lines alternating darker and lighter. Again the same colour as the background, but the same shade.

TV looks fine in HDR video apps and everything seems pretty normal in Horizon, though I noticed some horizontla odd lines that appeared when Aloy's hair animated. Again, subtle shifts in shade. This would fade in and out with the animation though.

Thoughts?
 

dcx4610

Member
Man, one thing that drives me absolutely nuts with this TV is the dimming when watching HDR.

I was watching Logan on 4K UHD last night and every time there was a dark scene or the credits, you can noticeably see the colors and black levels shift to darkness. It's very distracting.

At first when I got the TV I thought it was some kind of auto-contrast or dynamic range but all of those are disabled. It looks like it's just how the TV handles HDR with its dimming.
 
At first when I got the TV I thought it was some kind of auto-contrast or dynamic range but all of those are disabled. It looks like it's just how the TV handles HDR with its dimming.

The set does this with all content, it's just much more noticeable with HDR because the backlight is on full-blast. The backlight will dim in accordance to what's on the screen. You cannot turn this off. The SmartLED feature only determines if the LEDs dim locally or globally in response to the overall dimness of the picture displayed onscreen. They do this so that your blacks in dark scenes do not look like grays. It's a limitation of edge-lit LED LCDs.
 
Hmm. I've been thinking about grabbing one of these as my new TV however there is also a Samsung UN60KU6300 for 499$. I wonder if 500$ or so (for the 55") is worth the difference.
 

randomkid

Member
So I got this thing last week and it's been working great. But today I'm getting a No Signal for my PS4 HDMI cable. Puyo Puyo Tetris was working just fine when I put it into rest mode last night and literally nothing has been touched or changed since I tried to turn it on again this afternoon. Tried switching to a different cable and same error. The PS4 is definitely on. Google isn't helping, am I missing something obvious? WTF is going on?

Edit: Unplugging and replugging the PS4 worked. It felt pretty hot. No idea what happened.
 
Been using my KS8000 since November and I love it! I have a PS4 Pro and Xbone S. Just recently bought a new PC and plan on using the KS8000 as my monitor for some PC/couch gaming.

Any advice or settings I should be aware of to maximize this? I'm hoping to do 4k and/or 1440p gaming @ 60fps with minimal lag.

I have an I7 7700 + 1080 graphics card if that helps with anything.
 

mckmas8808

Banned
The set does this with all content, it's just much more noticeable with HDR because the backlight is on full-blast. The backlight will dim in accordance to what's on the screen. You cannot turn this off. The SmartLED feature only determines if the LEDs dim locally or globally in response to the overall dimness of the picture displayed onscreen. They do this so that your blacks in dark scenes do not look like grays. It's a limitation of edge-lit LED LCDs.

I love how you are constantly helping us with this set. I'm going to be moving into my new house in two weeks and will be putting this on my wall.

I'll have many questions for you and the others here then.

Thanks.
 
Once I move my computer around I'm tempted to run an HDMI cable to my receiver and TV for this one so I can do some PC gaming on this thing. Will it run 1440p properly?
 

Nezacant

Member
Once I move my computer around I'm tempted to run an HDMI cable to my receiver and TV for this one so I can do some PC gaming on this thing. Will it run 1440p properly?

Yes. However if your game has the option to set a screen resolution and scale to another, use that to prevent any wonky issues.
 
If I can stomach the PC mode input lag, am I better off playing on that mode over game mode as PC mode is capable of 4:4:4?

Sure. It's a noticeable improvement when working on the desktop, reading things, media, etc. However, once I'm actually playing a game I can't tell much of a difference and personally opt for game mode and less input lag. It's up to you. Maybe my eyes aren't that great or I don't sit close enough.
 
So, I'm recently in the market for a new TV. I've been staying intentionally ignorant of 4K stuff because I haven't wanted to temp myself, but I guess it's finally time.

My question is I have this receiver: YAMAHA RX-A740 7.2 Network AVENTAGE AV Receiver Wi-Fi/AirPlay (YAMRXA740BL) and here is my concern from the literature about this receiver:



Additionally, it isn't HDCP 2.2 compatible and I'm really not sure what kind of experience I should expect passing the video through this receiver. I have a 7.1 audio setup currently. I'd hate to get into a situation where I obsolete my receiver because of the HDCP 2.2 thing.

Would it be worth upgrading to a KS7000/KS8000 or should I just keep going with my Panasonic plasma? I really don't want to buy a new receiver and TV now. I'm only in the market for a TV, but if my receiver is going to hold me back now or in the near future I'll just hold off on a TV purchase and keep gaming at 1080p. I do have a PS4 Pro.

Edit to add: What's a typical price for the 55" KS8000, I see it for $999 new.


If you're getting this TV for the low input lag I would not run the game system through the receiver. Instead, I would recommend running the system straight to the TV and then connect the TV's processing box to the Yamaha via the HDMI input w/ ARC for sound and you'll have the best of both worlds.... to a point.
 
If you're getting this TV for the low input lag I would not run the game system through the receiver. Instead, I would recommend running the system straight to the TV and then connect the TV's processing box to the Yamaha via the HDMI input w/ ARC for sound and you'll have the best of both worlds.... to a point.

If the receiver doesn't support HDR or other settings that your TV does, then you'll have no choice but to follow this advice and go straight to the TV and run ARC or optical back to the receiver (I prefer optical as ARC can be a pain).

However, strictly speaking about the potential for input lag, I disagree. Why cheat yourself out of enhanced audio quality if you don't have to. Just set your receiver to "passthrough" for video, turn off any on-screen overlays, and enable game mode if it has one. I have a recent Onkyo receiver and while I'm sure it cannot be totally lag-free it is imperceptible to me with the above settings and I'm fairly sensitive. Furthermore, I have experienced none of the black screens, lip-sync issues, problems setting intermediate resolutions or Nintendo Switch auto-input switching that others have reported going directly to their TV sets. In addition, I get 7.1 uncompressed audio, which is impossible using ARC or optical-out.

I'm just saying I would give it a shot running through the receiver. If you check the receiver's settings and you still run into lag or other problems, THEN you can sacrifice audio quality and go straight to the TV.
 
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