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Bicycle age

I have a few questions, though:

1. How can I tell what size tires my rims can accommodate? Nothing helpful on Giant's website. I want something more rugged so I can do the Katy Trail which is gravel.

2. My butt bones are sore today. My bike came with a lower-end seat ($50 Giant Contact Forward), and I noticed I could upgrade to a nicer version ($175 Giant Contact SLR Forward). I'd have no problem spending the money if it meant more comfort. However, maybe my posture would be better off with a neutral or upright seat. How can I tell? I'd like to stick with Giant brand for the saddle, btw. I also noticed they have a saddle with a hole in the middle ($48 Flow 1 Mens) that supposedly relieves pressure. There are also some really big saddles that look comfy. I did read something about avoiding cushy saddles because they make your soft tissue sore. Any suggestions?

3. How many tire levers do I need in my saddle bag? I would think just one but every kit comes with at least two. You don't ever have to use them together at the same time, do you? Right now I'm carrying around 1 lever, 1 spare tube, 1 CO2 cartridge and inflator. Anything else I absolutely need for repairs?

1. It's a combination of the rim and clearance in the frame. I'm going to take a wild guess that it can do 28-33, someone measured and found the width of the rim http://www.lukegjpotter.com/2016/01/giant-px-2-wheelset-weight-width-and.html This may help you

2. Full stop: don't go changing your saddle. You're brand new to cycling, your ass is going to be sore no matter what. You may sit on a seat and have it feel good now, but in 45 minutes it feels like absolute hell on earth. Just make sure you're fit properly first (the bike shop should have done this).

2a. There is absolute no correlation between comfort and price. You will get 80000 different opinions on which seat is the best.

2b. Wider does not mean better. If you get a seat that is too wide for your arse you're going to put a ton of pressure on your soft tissue and be even more uncomfortable.

2c. There are various forms of pressure when on a bike and sometimes the pressure can just come from poor posture or initial sitting. Being more upright changes your whole body angle on the bike, so don't do this unless you're absolutely positive you want to be up more. Because if you ever decide to bend down you're going to be in some discomfort.

2d. Saddle positioning and angle is, IMO, the absolute most pain in the arse (no pun) thing to get figured out on a bike. I cannot stress enough that you should start with a bike fitting first. They will get you 99% of the way there if you do in fact end up in perpetual pain in the saddle. There is no perfect set up for a bike seat and some people spend years switching between them. We all have different butts and finding the right one is just never easy. I've tried 4 different seats and always find myself circling back to the one that works best, despite a minor annoyance. This is in spite of reading nothing but glowing reviews on two I ordered (Brooks Cambium & Fabric Scoop [still trying this one out]).

3. You can get by with 1, but there' so small and light why not carry two? Sometimes you may need the second to help with seating a tire after replacing a tube. As for other items, I would recommend a good multi-tool that meets your needs. Don't go nuts buying one of those 50 in one items with chain breakers and shit like that. Just get something with some basic bike stuff you, as yourself, can comfortable adjust: screw drivers, allen keys, etc. I carry the CrankBrothers M19 (https://www.crankbrothers.com/tools_M19) and while it has some stuff I'll never use, it's super small and compact so I'm ok with having it there. I would definitely carry around an extra CO2, or 3, if you can fit them. Trust me, you're going to hit a point where the damn thing doesn't sit right. I also recommend 2-in-1 pumps like Lezyne's pressure drive (http://www.lezyne.com/product-CO2-cfh-pressdrivecfh.php). I've run out of CO2 and having the hand pump option was beneficial.
 

broony

Member
2. My butt bones are sore today. My bike came with a lower-end seat ($50 Giant Contact Forward), and I noticed I could upgrade to a nicer version ($175 Giant Contact SLR Forward). I'd have no problem spending the money if it meant more comfort. However, maybe my posture would be better off with a neutral or upright seat. How can I tell? I'd like to stick with Giant brand for the saddle, btw. I also noticed they have a saddle with a hole in the middle ($48 Flow 1 Mens) that supposedly relieves pressure. There are also some really big saddles that look comfy. I did read something about avoiding cushy saddles because they make your soft tissue sore. Any suggestions?

Are you wearing padded shorts? Makes a massive difference.
 
Just bought my first bicycle this weekend, at 33 years old! I got a 2017 Giant Contend SL Disc 1. I did a ton of research on bikes and cycling itself, and felt prepared to make a large investment in something that would be nice and last me a long time. I have high-end gear too for a beginner haha. I hadn't sat on a bike since I was probably 14 years old, and that was a mountain bike so this is all new territory for me!

I took it out with a friend yesterday for a few miles on a paved trail around a lake. As a beginner, the only thing I struggled with was mounting and dismounting the first few times. My gears were also clicking oddly at first, so I set everything to easiest and it seemed to reset them. Obviously I have a lot more to learn. It was a great experience, though. I'm so happy to be a part of this world now.

I have a few questions, though:

1. How can I tell what size tires my rims can accommodate? Nothing helpful on Giant's website. I want something more rugged so I can do the Katy Trail which is gravel.

2. My butt bones are sore today. My bike came with a lower-end seat ($50 Giant Contact Forward), and I noticed I could upgrade to a nicer version ($175 Giant Contact SLR Forward). I'd have no problem spending the money if it meant more comfort. However, maybe my posture would be better off with a neutral or upright seat. How can I tell? I'd like to stick with Giant brand for the saddle, btw. I also noticed they have a saddle with a hole in the middle ($48 Flow 1 Mens) that supposedly relieves pressure. There are also some really big saddles that look comfy. I did read something about avoiding cushy saddles because they make your soft tissue sore. Any suggestions?

3. How many tire levers do I need in my saddle bag? I would think just one but every kit comes with at least two. You don't ever have to use them together at the same time, do you? Right now I'm carrying around 1 lever, 1 spare tube, 1 CO2 cartridge and inflator. Anything else I absolutely need for repairs?

Welcome to cycling! Starting out with a decent bike is a great idea, nothing worse than trying to make do with POS department store bike that ends up discarded or costing more via repairs.

1) Modern road bikes can generally take at least 28mm tyres. Your rims are good for even more if the frame can fit them. Best to ask the bike shop. For a smooth gravel road something like Panaracer Gravel King will do fine. A road bike can tackle quite a bit more than people think, but comfort levels will plummet after a certain point.

2) Like everyone says, don't change saddles until your butt is used to cycling and you're sure the current one is unsuited for you. And yes, get padded shorts. You don't have to wear lycra on the outside unless you want to. ;)

3) 2 levers because trying to pry off a stubborn tyre on the side of the road with cold fingers sucks. A small pump is good as well. After that you're missing what is IMO the most important accessory: a multitool.
 

HTupolev

Member
Nice pic. It looks similar to the east side of the Sierras in California.
Reminds me of last summer riding around Upper Austria =( want to go back.
It's Whitehorse Mountain in the Cascades, viewed from Darrington.

Beautiful bike! What is it? :)
Heavily modified 1983 Stumpjumper. Fit sort of like a road bike, huge road tires for gravel.

You don't ever have to use them together at the same time, do you?
There are two reasons to carry two tire levers:
1-While it's almost never strictly critical, it's sometimes easier to remove a tire if you have a lever to hold the bead off the rim in one spot as you work on another nearby spot.
2-Tire levers are capable of breaking.

I also noticed they have a saddle with a hole in the middle ($48 Flow 1 Mens) that supposedly relieves pressure.
That's not for sit bones. The idea of the cutout is that the saddle won't cut off circulation to one's junk.

If you're just getting sitbone soreness, for the time being you should give it time. It can take a week or two of riding to harden up.

What's your weight and what tire pressure are you running? Some new cyclists make things harder than need be on their sitbones by running their tires too hard (too-high pressure can also slow the bike down, since energy is being wasted buzzing the bike as it rolls over road irregularities).
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys! Got a multi tool and a second lever now. My pump with a gauge just came so I will have to check my tire pressure. It's whatever the bakeshop set it at when I bought it. I rode 8 miles yesterday and my sit bones feel fine this morning, so I think my seat is good.

Next up is pedals. What is the easiest and best all-around type of clipless pedal for a beginner? I was looking at the Shimano 105. That is the groupset on my bike too.
 

Addnan

Member
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys! Got a multi tool and a second lever now. My pump with a gauge just came so I will have to check my tire pressure. It's whatever the bakeshop set it at when I bought it. I rode 8 miles yesterday and my sit bones feel fine this morning, so I think my seat is good.

Next up is pedals. What is the easiest and best all-around type of clipless pedal for a beginner? I was looking at the Shimano 105. That is the groupset on my bike too.
You'll get used to whatever type of pedal you decide to buy. The road specific pedals, so Spd sl(which the 105 pedal is) and look pedals can initially be a bit harder since you can only clip in one side. Spd mountain bike pedals are a bit easier since can clip in either side and the shoes generally allow you to walk around a bit. Walking on road shoes is not ideal. I personally use the 105 pedals on my bike. Should watch some video of clipping in and out of the types of pedals and see if you'll be ok learning a bit. Using road pedals feel amazing once you get used to it even in stop and go traffic because you learn to clip on very quickly. but I have only little experience of the mtb pedals so kinda one sided there.
 
Next up is pedals. What is the easiest and best all-around type of clipless pedal for a beginner? I was looking at the Shimano 105. That is the groupset on my bike too.

For clipless pedals Shimano is ubiquitous and thus the easy choice.

SPD is their two-bolt, all metal system. It's designed for mtb use and thus can be put into shoes with soles you can walk with. The downside is that it's not quite as good a pedaling platform as a road set.

SPD-SL is a three-bolt road system with plastic cleats. It's really good for pedaling, but walking is dodgy as best. You'll waddle like an aquatic bird. The plastic cleats also wear down fast if you do walk.

I use these both and if I only had one it'd probably be SPD. The difference in pedaling platform is really not that noticeable and SPD-SL is really limiting for casual rides.
 
That's very helpful. I think mtb/SPD pedals might be best for starting off.

What do you guys recommend for a phone mount? I need something durable and secure because I have a large iPhone 7 Plus. I want a phone mount mostly so I have somewhere to put my phone and also to listen to music without having to use headphones. I already have an Apple Watch for tracking.
 

Addnan

Member
That's very helpful. I think mtb/SPD pedals might be best for starting off.

What do you guys recommend for a phone mount? I need something durable and secure because I have a large iPhone 7 Plus. I want a phone mount mostly so I have somewhere to put my phone and also to listen to music without having to use headphones. I already have an Apple Watch for tracking.
Quadlock.
 
Quadlock.
I was kind of expecting this response. Is that what most serious cyclists use?


Switching "gears," what method do you guys use for locking your bikes? I'm thinking I'll get a U-lock and a cable for the front wheel. Debating whether to go full hardcore and just do two U-locks.

Also, during group rides like bar hopping, how does everyone typically secure their bikes during the stops? Are there usually enough people around outside that theft isn't an issue? Or do people lock their bikes together?
 
I was kind of expecting this response. Is that what most serious cyclists use?


Switching "gears," what method do you guys use for locking your bikes? I'm thinking I'll get a U-lock and a cable for the front wheel. Debating whether to go full hardcore and just do two U-locks.

Also, during group rides like bar hopping, how does everyone typically secure their bikes during the stops? Are there usually enough people around outside that theft isn't an issue? Or do people lock their bikes together?

Most "serious" cyclists don't use a phone.

I just use a U-Lock for my bike and if I'm out with like 5+ other people we'll just stack our bikes if theyr'e within eye sight.
 

Formidable

Neo Member
I was kind of expecting this response. Is that what most serious cyclists use?


Switching "gears," what method do you guys use for locking your bikes? I'm thinking I'll get a U-lock and a cable for the front wheel. Debating whether to go full hardcore and just do two U-locks.

Also, during group rides like bar hopping, how does everyone typically secure their bikes during the stops? Are there usually enough people around outside that theft isn't an issue? Or do people lock their bikes together?

For wheels, I use kryptonite gravity wheel locks. You can't unlock them unless you flip the bike upside down. I just use a regular ABUS U-lock thru the rear wheel and the frame.
 

T8SC

Member
Done my test run of the Fred Whitton Challenge and managed 6hrs 37mins @ 16.6mph average.

Hardknott Pass with 94 mile in your legs at (before climbing it) an average of 17mph+ is not a pretty sight.

Roll on 2 week, bring on the pain. Now excuse me whilst I either lay down, eat, drink or do something else that currently my body has no idea what that thing is.
 

frontieruk

Member
img_06161ozpw.jpg
.
 

kottila

Member
Tired of the usual beginning of season back pains, so I went out to get a 16 degree stem (I was sporting a +6 degree before). Went to three shops, and all I could find was a 35 degree, so now my bike looks butt ugly. This better help
 
Tired of the usual beginning of season back pains, so I went out to get a 16 degree stem (I was sporting a +6 degree before). Went to three shops, and all I could find was a 35 degree, so now my bike looks butt ugly. This better help

Have you ever gotten the bike properly fitted to you?
 
Anybody use Apple Watch while cycling? I'm curious what the best app to use is.

I mostly want a speedometer on my watch. Does the iPhone even do that?
 

frontieruk

Member

Its a fun little thing for £100, the Claris gearset was I bit awkward due to the gaps in the gearing compared to the 105 but it does the job, done a couple of 60+ mile rides with mates on their 105 laden cyclocross bikes and didn't struggle to keep with them.

Love the bike. You need a flat kit. ;)

Isn't that what pockets on jerseys are for?

(its in my works bag that I carry)
 
Can anyone recommend drop bars that can turn a commuter into a more road bike without getting rid of the main bars? I found this on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Assuming your bike is correctly sized, drop bars need a shorter stem. So it's not going to work well if you just stick those things on. I'd say get some bar ends if you want to change hand positions during a ride. Or just go full drop bars with brake levers and keep the old gear levers.
 
The problem with Ergon, while an extremely competent product, is that they make a bike look terrible. The only good bar end is a garishly anodized one.
 

Teggy

Member
It was a rainy day yesterday so I hopped on the trainer and did an FTP test. I'm tired of being slow and trying to set up a training program around here with all the cars and intersections and hills and stuff seems challenging so I'm going to do a course on TrainerRoad. A bit of an odd time of year to start but I can use my other bike for getting outside in between.
 
Anybody use Apple Watch while cycling? I'm curious what the best app to use is.

I mostly want a speedometer on my watch. Does the iPhone even do that?
I use Strava on my Apple Watch to great effect. I can see speed, distance, heartrate, and time all with a raising of my wrist.

I can't speak for the new version of the Apple Watch, but I know the original does not have a native speedometer.
 

Mascot

Member
How is that Raven still going!

It was basically a museum piece for the past couple of decades. Bought new, ridden a handful of times, and then mounted on a wall. My mate bought it from the original purchaser just last year.

It gets a LOT of props from our generation of riders when we are at trail centres and bike parks.
 

T8SC

Member
Anyone upgraded their BB30/PF30 bearings to ceramic? Fancy an upgrade to improve reliability and the ceramic jockey wheels on my Red22 are super smooth so there's that benefit too.

Expensive though compared to regular bearings. Unsure if they'd last that much longer than standard.

Fancy an SiSL2 crank also, but that's due to wanting to drop the weight of the bike further for hill climb sessions.
 
I bought replacement pedals for my first bike and I'm debating whether to take it to the bike shop to have them install the new pedals for $6 or to do it myself.

Any quick and easy guides or advice? Do I need a wrench and grease?
 
I bought replacement pedals for my first bike and I'm debating whether to take it to the bike shop to have them install the new pedals for $6 or to do it myself.

Any quick and easy guides or advice? Do I need a wrench and grease?

What kind of pedals did you end up getting? You'll need grease, a 15mm pedal wrench and/or a hex wrench of 6 or 8mm size.

There are a few things to look out when installing pedals: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-installation-and-removal
 
What kind of pedals did you end up getting? You'll need grease, a 15mm pedal wrench and/or a hex wrench of 6 or 8mm size.

There are a few things to look out when installing pedals: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-installation-and-removal

I had been researching all of the clipless options, but I've had a bike for less than a week and have gone on only two small rides. I'm not ready to learn something new on top of everything else I'm learning, so I said 'fuck it' and got Shimano Saint flat pedals :p

Once I'm more comfortable on a bike I'll get into clipless.

Anyway, I don't have those tools, or a repair stand for my bike. $6 from the shop would be cheaper than getting the tools, so I might just have them do it this time around.
 
Anyone familiar with YT bikes? My friend recommended them.

Thing is, it looks like you have to order directly from them... is there no way to try out a bike before purchasing?
 
Trying out a third seat to see if I can replace my Alliante but it's seeming like that wont be happening. I should probably accept that the Alliante is 90% of the seat I need and stop trying to find something better.
 

frontieruk

Member
Anyone upgraded their BB30/PF30 bearings to ceramic? Fancy an upgrade to improve reliability and the ceramic jockey wheels on my Red22 are super smooth so there's that benefit too.

Expensive though compared to regular bearings. Unsure if they'd last that much longer than standard.

Fancy an SiSL2 crank also, but that's due to wanting to drop the weight of the bike further for hill climb sessions.

Wouldn't it be cheaper and more energy efficient to actually drop your weight? Just dropping 1lb would have a bigger effect on your climb than the ~100g saving on the crankset unless you ride with your wallet on you...
 
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