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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Boss Man

Member
I just want to mention that “Use whatever looks best to you.” sounds nice but is not always good advice. Better advice might be, “You should try the more accurate setting for a few days to see if it grows on you.”

Obviously they can do what they want with their TV, no one is looking for permission they’re looking to improve their experience.
 

nowhat

Member
So a little while back I complained how HDMI-CEC no longer works as well as it had (for the record my setup is pretty simple: a Pro, Chromecast and Switch all via HDMI to the TV, then via optical to the amplifier - yes, I know the amplifier is way past its prime, it'll be the next thing to upgrade). But now it seems HDMI-CEC just doesn't work, at all. Only the Switch even manages to get the TV to switch (hah!) inputs.

Are we supposed to get OTA updates or should I download one manually? I have a KS7000 (which is what KS8000 is here in Europe) and am still stuck at 1201.
 

Grinchy

Banned
I think I'm a Warm 2 convert. With a new calibration done around that setting specifically, it did feel yellowish to me at first. Now when I switch around, it looks so wrong on the other settings.

I also stopped using dynamic contrast on low with HDR content (it was another tip I used from some people in this thread). Having it off just looks correct.
 
Amazon video no longer playing 4k only 1080p after app update. Anyone else getting this

Yes, it's been widely reported at AVSForum. Several people have reported that they were able to fix it by pulling the power plug on their sets for several minutes and then plugging it back in. When they went back into Amazon after this the videos played normally again.

But now it seems HDMI-CEC just doesn't work, at all. Only the Switch even manages to get the TV to switch (hah!) inputs.

Are we supposed to get OTA updates or should I download one manually? I have a KS7000 (which is what KS8000 is here in Europe) and am still stuck at 1201.

Again, the fix I've seen for resetting HDMI-CEC is to unplug the power from the TV for several minutes and then plug it back in. This seems to reset that sub-system and it will start working again provided all related settings are correct.

As for updates, I always download from Samsung's site and install manually. I like trying out the new firmware and OTA often takes forever (and sometimes some versions never appear OTA at all).
 

ABeezy1388

Member
I am so out of sync with all these updates and cocnfiguring the settings on my KS8000. Everytime I see this thread I am afraid to look at it... tv settings are like a wormhole for me.
 
I feel like i'm noticing the judder-blur more and more on this TV. Is it just me or it's got worse?
especially TV and 30fps games.

I'm dreading Yakuza 6's 30fps :(
 
I feel like i'm noticing the judder-blur more and more on this TV. Is it just me or it's got worse?

I think it's probably just you. This set uses a pulsing backlight (PWM) so it's always been more noticeable than some other models. I don't think it's any worse now than it was when I got it. I'm on the latest firmware (1209) and it seems the same. There are settings you may have changed that may make the problem more or less noticeable, such as the auto-motion settings, the backlight intensity, or whether the TV is placed into Game Mode or not.
 

nowhat

Member
Again, the fix I've seen for resetting HDMI-CEC is to unplug the power from the TV for several minutes and then plug it back in.

*Happy days and jubilation!* It works! Thank you sir/madam, this is definitely in the #firstwoldproblems territory, but you have just increased my quality of life by a large amount.
 

A.Romero

Member
So a little while back I complained how HDMI-CEC no longer works as well as it had (for the record my setup is pretty simple: a Pro, Chromecast and Switch all via HDMI to the TV, then via optical to the amplifier - yes, I know the amplifier is way past its prime, it'll be the next thing to upgrade). But now it seems HDMI-CEC just doesn't work, at all. Only the Switch even manages to get the TV to switch (hah!) inputs.

Are we supposed to get OTA updates or should I download one manually? I have a KS7000 (which is what KS8000 is here in Europe) and am still stuck at 1201.

If you have auto updates on, they should be downloaded automatically once they are released in your region.

You can go to Samsung's website and download the latest firmware and install it through a USB stick too.
 

buenoblue

Member
I've just unplugged my tv for the first time in months to get Amazon 4k back.left it unpkugged for 30 minutes now the tv looks so much better lol. Everything looked washed out before but now deep blacks are back and hdr looks better too. Now gonna unplug after every update.
 
Now this Rudy1 person from Florida is claiming that Samsung HQ in SK are detaining the game mode/HDR update until "other" things are fixed.

This guy is a phony I say!
 

base

Banned
What amuses me is that other people really believe what he says. He thinks himself some kind of a VIP who has access to Samsung's internal labs. Bullshit if you ask me. Why? Just check the last year's firmware releases - they didn't fix anything specific and now they want to fix all the stuff because of Rudy1 and his influence? LOL.

They prepare for next year's models release. They don't care about previous models.
 
I look for Rudy to eventually come out and declare that Samsung decided to never release the update because of the negative and abusive reaction from some in the community, thereby laying the blame on us:

“With this update, you would have had a nearly perfect gaming TV. You could have gamed for years in hassle-free bliss. But now, because of your distrustful nature, that can never be.”
 

base

Banned
Just got banned at avsforums for criticizing Rudy and his info over the newest firmware. Some user replied to me it was never promised that the firmware would appear. For people who actually follow the discussion there they should remember info from Rudy around Juni/July with confirmation of HDR Game Mode fix coming 27th November.
 

base

Banned
Rudy

"I had an email this morning from SK; the R&D department is busy prepping the units for CES (the pre-production units are hand built, in case you were wondering). However, they assured me that they still intend to release the patch & will notify me when they have a start date for global distribution."

I would say it otherwise - good luck waiting for a new firmware.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Rudy

"I had an email this morning from SK; the R&D department is busy prepping the units for CES (the pre-production units are hand built, in case you were wondering). However, they assured me that they still intend to release the patch & will notify me when they have a start date for global distribution."

I would say it otherwise - good luck waiting for a new firmware.

Man that sucks then. It's out of sight, out of mind for me now.
 
Rudy

"I had an email this morning from SK; the R&D department is busy prepping the units for CES (the pre-production units are hand built, in case you were wondering). However, they assured me that they still intend to release the patch & will notify me when they have a start date for global distribution."

I would say it otherwise - good luck waiting for a new firmware.

Rudy1 from Florida is a damn phony and the way some folks revere this poster is incredulous. If anyone tries to call him out, they get attacked. A phalanx of other AVSF folks protect him. I'm new to this forum stuff but it's hella weird.

You're only as good as your word and so far Rudy1's mean ABSOLUTELY nothing. He hasn't delivered at all but I hope I'm wrong.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
Well 4th engineer call out today. Had the front pannel changed twice due to faults. Swapping the second pannel out, the back pannel broke and then the replacement back pannel also arrived broken.. hopefully the saga is at an end today! Lol.
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Well 4th engineer call out today. Had the front pannel changed twice due to faults. Swapping the second pannel out, the back pannel broke and then the replacement back pannel also arrived broken.. hopefully the saga is at an end today! Lol.

So sorry to hear that. Samsung are due to send an engineer out for my TV. Hopefully my issues will be resolved too.

Could I ask:
Do the engineer(s) replace the panel in-situ? or do they take it away?
How long does a panel replacement take?

Ta muchly.
 

Gavin Stevens

Formerly 'o'dium'
Yeah my panel now has an utter ton of white clouding bottom left of the screen, so much so its gone near white when the screen is black. Theres also a finger print sized white dot on the lower middle of the screen that is bright when the screen is bright. The lower trim of the screen is also white.

This is after my original panel came and the whole left side had broken away and light was bleeding from it.

I think I need to call them up and get this replaced. Really not happy about it, at all.
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Yeah my panel now has an utter ton of white clouding bottom left of the screen, so much so its gone near white when the screen is black. Theres also a finger print sized white dot on the lower middle of the screen that is bright when the screen is bright. The lower trim of the screen is also white.

This is after my original panel came and the whole left side had broken away and light was bleeding from it.

I think I need to call them up and get this replaced. Really not happy about it, at all.

My panel has 2 of the bright white spots that you speak of. Its one of those, once you see it, you can't unsee it scenarios.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
So sorry to hear that. Samsung are due to send an engineer out for my TV. Hopefully my issues will be resolved too.

Could I ask:
Do the engineer(s) replace the panel in-situ? or do they take it away?
How long does a panel replacement take?

Ta muchly.

All sorted now, thank god :).

They replace it there and then. Panel replacement takes about 30 minutes from start to finish.
 

Hostile_18

Banned
Really happy for you, I sincerely hope you have no further problems.

30 mins to replace a panel! Yeah, that's great to hear.

Thank you!

No worries :)

It's almost like Lego. The front pannel, motherboard and internal sound are connected with one wire to each, maybe a single screw or two and they just pop out and replace.
 

fabrizio5680

Neo Member
Hey guys, I need help with my TV! sorry for long text.

I've been having this weird issue where I would turn on my PS4 pro and I would immediately notice the colours look appalling and with the reds being more noticeable where they have like a grey tinge and have lost all life, but all colours show this. Very obvious on the dashboard and then in game (not HDR).

At first I had no idea what was causing it, but then discovered that if I had a native TV app running like youtube/netflix and then turned on the PS4, TV would auto switch to PS4 and it would manifest.

I went on to find a solution by pure coincidence, turn off PS4, switch to another input, turn off tv and hold button to reboot the tv. Once I did this the TV would reboot then turn on ps4 and it would most of the time work and colours would be vibrant as they always were but not oversaturated as you'd see using native colour space.

Now its almost impossible to fix it and occasionally if TV has been off for the day and I switch the PS4 on it will be good, but mostly I'm stuck with really shit colour reproduction... I have to increase colour to 65 to get anywhere near the norm whereas when working 50 is perfect.

PS4 pro screen settings:
Resolution: 2160p RGB (stops auto flickering, tried auto no difference)
Black level: limited (tried both here and no difference)
auto & auto for HDR stuff

55KS7000 (EU) movie profile and Game mode on: firmware 1208.2 (also previous versions caused this)
HDMI UHD Color: on
Black level: low
color space: auto

If anyone has any idea or direction they can point me towards, It'd be much appreciated. I've had the TV just over a year now and same with the PS4 pro, using a monoprice HDMI cable.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Yeah my panel now has an utter ton of white clouding bottom left of the screen, so much so its gone near white when the screen is black. Theres also a finger print sized white dot on the lower middle of the screen that is bright when the screen is bright. The lower trim of the screen is also white.

This is after my original panel came and the whole left side had broken away and light was bleeding from it.

I think I need to call them up and get this replaced. Really not happy about it, at all.

I have white spots at the bottom too, but they only show up like 10% of the time.
 

A.Romero

Member
Hey guys, I need help with my TV! sorry for long text.

I've been having this weird issue where I would turn on my PS4 pro and I would immediately notice the colours look appalling and with the reds being more noticeable where they have like a grey tinge and have lost all life, but all colours show this. Very obvious on the dashboard and then in game (not HDR).

At first I had no idea what was causing it, but then discovered that if I had a native TV app running like youtube/netflix and then turned on the PS4, TV would auto switch to PS4 and it would manifest.

I went on to find a solution by pure coincidence, turn off PS4, switch to another input, turn off tv and hold button to reboot the tv. Once I did this the TV would reboot then turn on ps4 and it would most of the time work and colours would be vibrant as they always were but not oversaturated as you'd see using native colour space.

Now its almost impossible to fix it and occasionally if TV has been off for the day and I switch the PS4 on it will be good, but mostly I'm stuck with really shit colour reproduction... I have to increase colour to 65 to get anywhere near the norm whereas when working 50 is perfect.

PS4 pro screen settings:
Resolution: 2160p RGB (stops auto flickering, tried auto no difference)
Black level: limited (tried both here and no difference)
auto & auto for HDR stuff

55KS7000 (EU) movie profile and Game mode on: firmware 1208.2 (also previous versions caused this)
HDMI UHD Color: on
Black level: low
color space: auto

If anyone has any idea or direction they can point me towards, It'd be much appreciated. I've had the TV just over a year now and same with the PS4 pro, using a monoprice HDMI cable.

If it only happens with the Ps4 it could be a CEC issue. Try disabling it.
 

WolfRathmA

Member
Just find out that Xbox One X doesn't sent 422 on HDR or RGB 444 on SDR content if you have wrong settings on the Color depth.

The correct setting to work right is to set the Color depth to 24bits per pixel (8bit). Otherwise you will get YCbCr 420 if you select other setting.

For HDR if you want to get 422 you have to check the Allow YCC 422 on the Advanced video settings.

Hope that helps someone.
 

gt86

Member
Just find out that Xbox One X doesn't sent 422 on HDR or RGB 444 on SDR content if you have wrong settings on the Color depth.

The correct setting to work right is to set the Color depth to 24bits per pixel (8bit). Otherwise you will get YCbCr 420 if you select other setting.

For HDR if you want to get 422 you have to check the Allow YCC 422 on the Advanced video settings.

Hope that helps someone.

I thought you selected 10bit for this tv? Isnt it a 10bit panel?
 

BLAUcopter

Gold Member
Just find out that Xbox One X doesn't sent 422 on HDR or RGB 444 on SDR content if you have wrong settings on the Color depth.

The correct setting to work right is to set the Color depth to 24bits per pixel (8bit). Otherwise you will get YCbCr 420 if you select other setting.

For HDR if you want to get 422 you have to check the Allow YCC 422 on the Advanced video settings.

Hope that helps someone.

Show me the receipts.
 

philm87

Member
Anyone had a HDMI device just suddenly drop out for no apparent reason?

This has happened with my AV receiver that I connect via ARC. It's just suddenly not coming up on the sound menu to select the receiver, but it seems to detect the HDMI connection as it switches to the receiver when the receiver is turned on. Literally not changed a thing before this happened and had no new updates.

I've switched HDMI cables, reset the tv to factory defaults, turned Anynet off, but nothing works.

Any ideas?

Edit: solved the problem by switching everything off at the plug for a while then turning it on again. No idea why this made it work.
 

Bravestarr

Neo Member
Merry Xmas to everyone!

After my motherboard got replaced I see on my ps4 pro on dark backgrounds random red lines. They are not persistent and occur only for one frame at the lower third of my screen. It does not happen on my raspberry pi (on game mode, too).

Any idea if this is related to the replacement or is it my ps4 pro? Games I used: late shift and You don't know jack 2015. I haven't seen them.on horizon zero dawn but maybe I just overlooked them during my boss battle.
 

WolfRathmA

Member
He has some points, but I don't know if we can trust his equipment 100%...I think we need more opinions on this. I selected 10 bit with 422 unchecked...

I have checked it twice with my setup/equipment and everything is correct as he said. I post my opinion/settings before this video was uploaded.
 
I have checked it twice with my setup/equipment and everything is correct as he said. I post my opinion/settings before this video was uploaded.

Inspired by that video and all of the reasoned disagreement in it's comments, I decided to do some experimenting of my own last night using the One X. It turns out that my receiver also displays the format of incoming signals with greater detail than the TV does (which is a shame, btw) so I experimented with the various X settings and wanted to share my findings.

First, some groundwork. From what I understand, normal SDR games (i.e. not HDR) are rendered in 8-bit RGB format. Movies and other video sources are usually stored and broadcast in 8-bit YCC format. The amount of bits basically translates to the amount of colors that are available. You will also see notation for YCC for the amount of color data that is transmitted to the TV (aka color subsampling) ranging from 4:4:4 (best) to 4:2:0.

HDR content, both for games and movies (UHD Blu-ray) is all 10-bit YCC format. Due to bandwidth limitations for HDMI, these sources are 10-bit 4:2:0. By default, the Xbox will automatically switch from RGB 8-bit to YCC 4:2:0 10-bit when an HDR video or game is playing. Now for what the confusing Xbox settings do:

Color Space: This ONLY affects normal, SDR output. If you change this to 10-bit, it has zero effect on HDR games (which are always 10-bit by default). It simply converts your normal 8-bit RGB game signals to 10-bit YCC 4:2:0 before sending it to the display. This will not add any additional colors, and could in fact lead to loss of some color detail since you are not feeding the TV the default RGB signal. It's an extra conversion step that is totally unnecessary for most users. Why is it even there? Well, some TVs may have problems switching modes. You've probably noticed that when you go from SDR to HDR and vice-versa that the TV blanks for a second as it adjusts to the new format. Some TVs may have problems with this transition, so changing this setting to 10-bit would mean that the TV is receiving the 10-bit YCC 4:2:0 signal all the time. The KS8000 doesn't suffer from this issue so I believe the correct setting for the KS8000 is 8-bit (24 bits per pixel).

Allow YCC 4:2:2 checkbox: As I stated earlier, current HDR material is encoded for 10-bit YCC 4:2:0. Your Xbox won't magically add more color data, so why is there a 4:2:2 option? Again, this setting is for lesser TVs that have problem accepting a true HDR 10-bit YCC 4:2:0 signal. According to my tests, what actually happens when you check this box is that YCC output from the Xbox, including in HDR titles, instead of using 10-bit YCC 4:2:0, will instead use 8-bit 4:2:2. This represents a loss of colors and is unwanted. The KS8000 does not need this help so the checkbox should be cleared. (EDIT - It's also possible this could help if you have HDMI cables or other devices in the chain that are not performing adequately.) BTW, if you want to replicate my tests, be aware that the output format will not change on running HDR software. You'll need to quit completely out of any game using the Xbox quick menu and restart before changes will take effect.

TL;DR: I now believe the correct Xbox S/X settings for the KS8000 and related sets are Colorspace: 24 bits per pixel (8-bit) and UNcheck the Allow YCC 4:2:2 option.
 

WolfRathmA

Member
You'll need to quit completely out of any game using the Xbox quick menu and restart before changes will take effect.

Yes, i'm always restart the application when i make a change. I didn't know that the encoding for HDR is 4:2:0. So, now i wonder, why the PS4 Pro switches to 4:2:2 when HDR is detected and not to 4:2:0? Of course it mention that the signal will even change to 4:2:2 or to 4:2:0 accordingly to signal source. I will check this with my setup and i will post if i see a change.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Yes, i'm always restart the application when i make a change. I didn't know that the encoding for HDR is 4:2:0. So, now i wonder, why the PS4 Pro switches to 4:2:2 when HDR is detected and not to 4:2:0? Of course it mention that the signal will even change to 4:2:2 or to 4:2:0 accordingly to signal source. I will check this with my setup and i will post if i see a change.

Please let us know what you find. Thanks.
 
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