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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

Holy shit. Why is the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III lens so cheap? I was able to get it on Amazon for $65 and no sales tax.

Full frame super zoom for that price? I'm sure it's not great in terms of sharpness, but that's dirt cheap, especially for a lens with autofocus capabilities.

I've been looking for super zoom options, but the native Sony lenses are too expensive. I went ahead and ordered the Canon along with a Metabones adapter.

I assume it was from a third party seller? Used or new?

I never buy from third party sellers myself (unless they are big outfits anyway).

edit: seems to be a budget lens anyway ($200 new), I imagine it'll probably be good enough considering its pricepoint.
 
The X-T2 seems to have really good AF tracking and I love the burst mode, it's actually my fastest camera. Way more consistent at grabbing people while walking than my DSLR's. Can' wait to get a lens with some actual reach though.
 
There should be adjustable focus peaking. If it's too aggressive a lot of softer lenses will have nothing in focus. I think that's the case with some f0.95 lenses.
There is adjustable focus peaking that will tweak its sensitivity. Problem is, I want it to sample the sensor for CD, or incorporate phase detect points somehow.
 
So hopefully someone can answer this question:

I accidentally left a roll of film in the glove compartment in my car for about 2 weeks. It's very warm now where I live so I'm sure that thing may have been cooking. So my question to you guys is will that cause any damage to the film for being in my hot car for so long?

I actually sent it to a lab along with another roll that wasn't left in my car and I call them to see if my prints and scans were ready to be picked up. They are, but they say there has been some damage, so only a few photos turned out. I'm assuming the ones that are damaged are from the roll I left in my car.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I assume it was from a third party seller? Used or new?

I never buy from third party sellers myself (unless they are big outfits anyway).

edit: seems to be a budget lens anyway ($200 new), I imagine it'll probably be good enough considering its pricepoint.

Third party, but Prime enabled and good ratings. Even Amazon itself is selling it for around $78.

The 75-300 is far and away the worst lens in canon's lineup when it comes to image quality.

I would imagine so for the price, but even if it produces halfway decent images, it seems like a steal at around $70. It's for full frames, too, so you're getting even more of a super zoom if you put it on an APS-C body.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Quick question about a problem I'm having with a new photo printer that I've, unsurprisingly, been completely unable to find anything about online.

I recently purchased the Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer, and it's awesome (and huge)! To begin the setup I connected my MacBook Pro via USB, the printer downloaded its drivers and profiles and all was good. In the basic OS X printing menu all the Canon paper ICC profiles were there. Cool.

Problems arose though when I managed to get the printer connected to the wifi. While the wifi connection works fine and everything prints, I've lost all the Canon ICC profiles in the printing menu. Try as I might I cannot find these actual profiles online. What's weirder is that when I reconnect the printer to my laptop via USB it shows up as a separate printer in the drop down printing menu, and all the ICC profiles are back. The moment I switch back over to the wifi version of the printer though, they're gone again.

So my question is, how the fuck do I get the Canon profiles to show up when I want to print over wireless (yes, I'm quite frustrated by this problem at this point).

Its probably using generic AirPrint driver over wifi, re add the printer but pick the driver in the drop down instead of auto.
 
So hopefully someone can answer this question:

I accidentally left a roll of film in the glove compartment in my car for about 2 weeks. It's very warm now where I live so I'm sure that thing may have been cooking. So my question to you guys is will that cause any damage to the film for being in my hot car for so long?

I actually sent it to a lab along with another roll that wasn't left in my car and I call them to see if my prints and scans were ready to be picked up. They are, but they say there has been some damage, so only a few photos turned out. I'm assuming the ones that are damaged are from the roll I left in my car.

Time and heat
and light leaks
are the enemy of film. However I did get a roll of film developed a few months ago that had sat for ~15 years in a drawer. The pictures were heavily fogged but with careful scanning and adjustments in photoshop I was able to get most of the photos looking half decent. They weren't anything fancy, just vacation snaps.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
How is Lightroom mobile for sorting/general cleanup of photos? I think I must have had a CC trial already because it won't let me do a free trial anymore. Just wondering if people use it and how it integrates with desktop Lightroom.

If I did this I suppose I'd also be able to update lightroom - currently on 6 as a 'buy once' rather than a subscription
 
I know most of you are pros but I just got a Sony AX53 for my job and I LOVE it. $1000 was my budget so I couldn't get the prosumer AX100 :( but I love the AX53 for what it is.

My bad: This is for still shots, not video. Well I do own a T2i :)
 
Time and heat
and light leaks
are the enemy of film. However I did get a roll of film developed a few months ago that had sat for ~15 years in a drawer. The pictures were heavily fogged but with careful scanning and adjustments in photoshop I was able to get most of the photos looking half decent. They weren't anything fancy, just vacation snaps.

Thanks for the response! It's cool that you were even able to make most of your photos decent, so I guess that's a good thing to know in case I ever run into that.

I received my prints and scans yesterday from that roll and to my surprise, they look just fine! Only the first photo appeared damaged because only 1/3 of it looked to have been exposed to sunlight. They made it seem like most of my photos were damaged, so I was definitely relieved that wasn't the case.
 

Ty4on

Member
Thanks for the response! It's cool that you were even able to make most of your photos decent, so I guess that's a good thing to know in case I ever run into that.

I received my prints and scans yesterday from that roll and to my surprise, they look just fine! Only the first photo appeared damaged because only 1/3 of it looked to have been exposed to sunlight. They made it seem like most of my photos were damaged, so I was definitely relieved that wasn't the case.
I think the heat just speeds up the ageing so a few weeks shouldn't do too much.

I've shot a few rolls that went out of date 06 and were stored in a drawer. You can see they're out of date, but you can also get some ok-ish results. Shadows are the most damaged (mine had a green and red tint that was really hard to remove) so I guess that's why the typical recommendation is to overexpose old film.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
This weekend I read up and watched a bunch of videos (mostly the Angry Photographer) about how, in general, more lens elements results in a loss of micro contrast information and, as a result, a much flatter-looking image with more visible noise.

This is the reason why prime lenses tend to produce better quality images, because they have fewer lens elements, which means less processing of the light before it hits the sensor, but it seems like not many people talk about this outside of using nebulous terms like "3D pop" or "Zeiss pop" or whatever. Everyone's always talking about minor vignetting and corner sharpness as weaknesses to zoom lenses, but this is a much bigger issue in my opinion. I couldn't quite put my finger on why the 24-70mm zoom lens I have been using for a few weeks produces images that, while plenty sharp, just look "off" and a bit flat. Trying to look this is up is what took me down this rabbit hole.

Anyway, there's an experiment that can easily illustrate this. Take a photo of a scene with a lot of range (dark interior with contrasted with bright outside, for example) and expose for the highlights. Do the same image with the same conditions on a zoom and a prime at the same focal length and then take them into Lightroom. Convert them into black and white and then adjust the exposure, shadows and highlights, etc. until you get an image in which everything looks good and apply the same settings to the other shot.

It should be very clear which photo was taken with which. The prime's image should have far more shades of gray to everything that give it that feeling of depth or 3D-ness. You should also see less noise/grain in the darker areas that had their shadows boosted.

This was a pretty eye-opening experiment for me and is definitely going to make me consider the number of elements when looking at lenses.
 
This weekend I read up and watched a bunch of videos (mostly the Angry Photographer) about how, in general, more lens elements results in a loss of micro contrast information and, as a result, a much flatter-looking image with more visible noise.

This is the reason why prime lenses tend to produce better quality images, because they have fewer lens elements, which means less processing of the light before it hits the sensor, but it seems like not many people talk about this outside of using nebulous terms like "3D pop" or "Zeiss pop" or whatever. Everyone's always talking about minor vignetting and corner sharpness as weaknesses to zoom lenses, but this is a much bigger issue in my opinion. I couldn't quite put my finger on why the 24-70mm zoom lens I have been using for a few weeks produces images that, while plenty sharp, just look "off" and a bit flat. Trying to look this is up is what took me down this rabbit hole.

Anyway, there's an experiment that can easily illustrate this. Take a photo of a scene with a lot of range (dark interior with contrasted with bright outside, for example) and expose for the highlights. Do the same image with the same conditions on a zoom and a prime at the same focal length and then take them into Lightroom. Convert them into black and white and then adjust the exposure, shadows and highlights, etc. until you get an image in which everything looks good and apply the same settings to the other shot.

It should be very clear which photo was taken with which. The prime's image should have far more shades of gray to everything that give it that feeling of depth or 3D-ness. You should also see less noise/grain in the darker areas that had their shadows boosted.

This was a pretty eye-opening experiment for me and is definitely going to make me consider the number of elements when looking at lenses.


I'd say I'd have to try it out, but I have no zoom lenses :x

That being said, yeah, more lens elements does reduce IQ, and yeah, I don't get why people worry about vignetting in the digital age when it's so piss easy to correct.
 

RuGalz

Member

You can apply the similar analogy to old vs new lens designs. Current internet sensation is all about border to border sharpness because it's measurable. Even newer designed primes tend to focus on that instead of rendering characteristics because that's what reviews well and are "objective".
 
I think the X-Pro2 graphite is one of the best looking cameras. So sexy. Thinking about buying one as a second Fuji body...
01.jpg
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
You can apply the similar analogy to old vs new lens designs. Current internet sensation is all about border to border sharpness because it's measurable. Even newer designed primes tend to focus on that instead of rendering characteristics because that's what reviews well and are "objective".

Seems that way! Review culture and the things the reviewers choose to focus on/knock points for is influencing how lenses get designed, which sucks, honestly.

I honestly didn't know much about lens design before looking this stuff up, but it really does make sense that more lens elements means more processing of the light, which generally isn't a good thing if you prefer true-to-life looking images.
 
Seems that way! Review culture and the things the reviewers choose to focus on/knock points for is influencing how lenses get designed, which sucks, honestly.

I honestly didn't know much about lens design before looking this stuff up, but it really does make sense that more lens elements means more processing of the light, which generally isn't a good thing if you prefer true-to-life looking images.

I would say that the issue is that they are making entirely *too* true to life images, and are not rendering photos with the quirks and differentiated colors that fall under "character".
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
I would say that the issue is that they are making entirely *too* true to life images, and are not rendering photos with the quirks and differentiated colors that fall under "character".

disagree. If you want funky lenses there are more than enough legacy lenses out there. If you want to add funky things to your image you have more than enough options via photoshop etc to do so.
 
disagree. If you want funky lenses there are more than enough legacy lenses out there. If you want to add funky things to your image you have more than enough options via photoshop etc to do so.
Was referring to how zefah was saying that the modern lenses aren't creating true to life images, when what he is describing is exactly them creating true to life images, that lack quirks.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
That's not what I meant, though. I was directly referring to the lack of depth that gets produced with lenses that have a ton of glass filtering the light. That may get them to be super sharp and allow for apertures of 1.4 or below, but the resulting image lacks the feeling of depth or three dimensions that an equivalent focal length (albeit "slower) prime lens with fewer elements would give. I'm sure there are exceptions out there, though. To me, more depth and more accurate color reproduction means more "true to life" than a tack sharp, but flat looking image.

Anyway, I got a chance to play with a friend's Fujifilm T-X2 yesterday and I came away extremely impressed. Everything about the camera just comes across as extremely well thought out and it was fun to shoot with it. I almost picked one up as an APS-C camera to go alongside my A7r ii, but I decided to wait. If only it had a touch screen and in-body image stabilization, I would have bit the bullet most likely. I feel like they are a year or two behind in features compared to Sony, but right on par or even ahead when it comes to auto-focus and image quality, and obviously superior when it comes to form factor and usability.

I'n definitely be eager to see what they put out for the T-X3 and T-X30 models, although I'm sure they are quite a way away. Maybe we'll see the X-Pro 3 sometime next year? 2019 is probably more likely, though. I'm tempted to just pull the trigger on the X-T20 right now considering how cheap it is for what you get.
 
That's not what I meant, though. I was directly referring to the lack of depth that gets produced with lenses that have a ton of glass filtering the light. That may get them to be super sharp and allow for apertures of 1.4 or below, but the resulting image lacks the feeling of depth or three dimensions that an equivalent focal length (albeit "slower) prime lens with fewer elements would give. I'm sure there are exceptions out there, though. To me, more depth and more accurate color reproduction means more "true to life" than a tack sharp, but flat looking image.

Anyway, I got a chance to play with a friend's Fujifilm T-X2 yesterday and I came away extremely impressed. Everything about the camera just comes across as extremely well thought out and it was fun to shoot with it. I almost picked one up as an APS-C camera to go alongside my A7r ii, but I decided to wait. If only it had a touch screen and in-body image stabilization, I would have bit the bullet most likely. I feel like they are a year or two behind in features compared to Sony, but right on par or even ahead when it comes to auto-focus and image quality, and obviously superior when it comes to form factor and usability.

I'n definitely be eager to see what they put out for the T-X3 and T-X30 models, although I'm sure they are quite a way away. Maybe we'll see the X-Pro 3 sometime next year? 2019 is probably more likely, though.
I don't think we'll be seeing an X-T2 till about very close to 2020, but that's just my assumption. I wouldn't hold my breath for IBIS though cause even Fuji themselves said they ain't putting it in their cameras. Do you really, like really need a touch screen? I hate touching my screen and alway wind up cleaning the damn thing off. I honestly need to get a screen protector for it.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I don't think we'll be seeing an X-T2 till about very close to 2020, but that's just my assumption. I wouldn't hold my breath for IBIS though cause even Fuji themselves said they ain't putting it in their cameras. Do you really, like really need a touch screen? I hate touching my screen and alway wind up cleaning the damn thing off. I honestly need to get a screen protector for it. You do videography? That's pretty much that demographic that asks for everything including the kitchen sink.

Not much videography, but I really love the ability to tap to focus. I used it for stills even on my old Canon T4i and it was super helpful. I do take videos from time to time and being able to drag the focus from point to point for a smooth transition is pretty amazing tech. It's definitely a "nice to have" feature, though. I don't have it in my A7R ii and that thing doesn't even have a joystick but I get by just fine.

Do you have any more information why Fuji said they won't include IBIS in their bodies? If there is a good reason, then I guess I just won't hold my breath for it and might grab an X-T20 right now.
 
Not much videography, but I really love the ability to tap to focus. I used it for stills even on my old Canon T4i and it was super helpful. I do take videos from time to time and being able to drag the focus from point to point for a smooth transition is pretty amazing tech. It's definitely a "nice to have" feature, though. I don't have it in my A7R ii and that thing doesn't even have a joystick but I get by just fine.

Do you have any more information why Fuji said they won't include IBIS in their bodies? If there is a good reason, then I guess I just won't hold my breath for it and might grab an X-T20 right now.
Here's the reason:
Fuji Managers: ”IBIS? Not compatible with X-mount (Read Why)! We are Observing the Progress of Organic Sensor"
Depending on what you do the XT-20 might be a bit too tiny, then again, I'll eventually be dropping extra batteries and a grip onto my X-T2 so whatevs. The X-T20 is a great travel camera. I just like a bigger grip and bigger viewfinder. My rule of thumb seems to be that if you can take good pics without a certain piece of tech then you really just don't need it. People like face detection, I turned mine off I think on the second day. It's fine for portraits, utterly atrocious for street photography.
 

Mr Swine

Banned
I bought a Fuji X-T20 with a 23mm lens and I love it! Takes super sharp images during bright daylight but I really don't know what settings I should have at not so bright daylight lol
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Fuck, I bought some Arcos 100 film for my friend, and I left it in my checkin luggage. 100 speed is okay to put in the hand carry scanner, but the check in scanner is a lot stronger, right?
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
I bought a Fuji X-T20 with a 23mm lens and I love it! Takes super sharp images during bright daylight but I really don't know what settings I should have at not so bright daylight lol

In dark areas, I'd probably leave the aperture wide open, with the shutter speed hovering between around 1/30 to 1/100, and adjust the rest of the brightness by changing ISO.
 

sneaky77

Member
Well...what is the best affordable prime?

It depends the focal range? I have the 18, 27 and 35, they are all pretty good. The 35mm is the best prime I have imo, and the 16mm has been mentioned already and I have heard great things on the 23 1.4 as well but that is out of range for me at the moment.
 
It depends the focal range? I have the 18, 27 and 35, they are all pretty good. The 35mm is the best prime I have imo, and the 16mm has been mentioned already and I have heard great things on the 23 1.4 as well but that is out of range for me at the moment.
I heard the 18 wasn't even good, but it looks pretty affordable.
 
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Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Here's the reason:
Fuji Managers: “IBIS? Not compatible with X-mount (Read Why)! We are Observing the Progress of Organic Sensor”
Depending on what you do the XT-20 might be a bit too tiny, then again, I'll eventually be dropping extra batteries and a grip onto my X-T2 so whatevs. The X-T20 is a great travel camera. I just like a bigger grip and bigger viewfinder. My rule of thumb seems to be that if you can take good pics without a certain piece of tech then you really just don't need it. People like face detection, I turned mine off I think on the second day. It's fine for portraits, utterly atrocious for street photography.

That's disappointing about IBIS, but I guess their reason makes sense if true. I wonder how much the image quality would actually suffer if they implemented a software solution.

IBIS is honestly a bit of a game changer for me with the A7R ii. I can shoot handheld with lenses that don't have optical stabilization at very low shutter speeds and still not get any motion blur. I hear that Panasonic's implementation is even better than Sony's.

Also, it seems like optical image stabilization in the lens is also extremely rare in Fuji's line up. Only a few zoom lenses seem to have it. That sucks, honestly. I almost never carry a tripod, but without any kind of image stabilization, shooting at 1/50 and below can get pretty difficult.
 
That's disappointing about IBIS, but I guess their reason makes sense if true. I wonder how much the image quality would actually suffer if they implemented a software solution.

IBIS is honestly a bit of a game changer for me with the A7R ii. I can shoot handheld with lenses that don't have optical stabilization at very low shutter speeds and still not get any motion blur. I hear that Panasonic's implementation is even better than Sony's.

Also, it seems like optical image stabilization in the lens is also extremely rare in Fuji's line up. Only a few zoom lenses seem to have it. That sucks, honestly. I almost never carry a tripod, but without any kind of image stabilization, shooting at 1/50 and below can get pretty difficult.
If you want IBIS go Panasonic. They seem to have one of the best implementations or Olympus. Fuji seems to have OIS on the lenses that need it like the telephoto stuff and the kit lens oddly enough. I personally view IBIS as mostly a video thing, but that's really just me. I wouldn't mind having it, but to be honest I've been able to live without it. Now if you want something smaller to pair with the A7Rii I'd recommend a G85. Should have everything you ask for...granted a smaller sensor size.
 

Chumley

Banned
If you want IBIS go Panasonic. They seem to have one of the best implementations or Olympus. Fuji seems to have OIS on the lenses that need it like the telephoto stuff and the kit lens oddly enough. I personally view IBIS as mostly a video thing, but that's really just me. I wouldn't mind having it, but to be honest I've been able to live without it. Now if you want something smaller to pair with the A7Rii I'd recommend a G85. Should have everything you ask for...granted a smaller sensor size.

Agreed. The GH5 is better in basically every way over Sony's offerings IMO. There's a very minor improvement in low light w A7sII but that's about it. You also save over $1k with better weather sealing and better ergo. No contest.
 

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