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Warhammer 40,000 |OT| In the Grim Darkness of the Community Forum There Is Only War

EYEL1NER

Member
I love how everyone is glossing over that the Eldar have just spawned a new GOD and everyone has already moved on before the book is even out lol.
Ehhhhhhhhhh... I personally am not really interested in anything about the Eldar. Spawning a new god is news to me but now that I have heard about it, I'm kind of like "Okay, cool, but a LOYALIST PRIMARCH is coming back!!!"
That's just me though. I don't dislike the Eldar but I haven't really cared about them up to now. The only story I've read so far that involved any Eldar that was memorable was the third Grey Knights book (which featured one of them on the Daemon World). I started the Ultramarines omnibus and I think maybe the first book has some elements in it that concern the Eldar? I haven't really figured it out yet what the story is about because I sidelined it in favor of the first Gaunt's Ghosts book.
 

manfestival

Member
There goes Wolftime.

he was claimed by the ultramarines
kunk-rum.gif
 
They've been coming out with new models regardless of the timeline not progressing, though. New Models were released with every new Codex, and then there was new stuff from Forgeworld all the time.

Yeah, Forgeworld for the longest time was 'Looks Cool, Not Legit'. And I know they've put out new kits, but my point was that they would put out a few new kits to go with the release of a new book that reworked one of the armies, and they'd add some new units or weapons, without actually progressing the storyline any. They'd just kinda edit some stuff and do their usual retcon, then it was back to square one.

The sloth of the years I worked there, compared to the frankly blistering pace that they're taking now, is a refreshing change.
 
As someone who dabbles pretty infrequently, what is going on with these End Times shenanigans?

As someone who loathes the new Age Of Sigma setting, I really hope they aren't trying to do something like that here.
 
Yeah, Forgeworld for the longest time was 'Looks Cool, Not Legit'. And I know they've put out new kits, but my point was that they would put out a few new kits to go with the release of a new book that reworked one of the armies, and they'd add some new units or weapons, without actually progressing the storyline any. They'd just kinda edit some stuff and do their usual retcon, then it was back to square one.

The sloth of the years I worked there, compared to the frankly blistering pace that they're taking now, is a refreshing change.

What do you mean by 'Looks Cool, Not Legit'?
 
What do you mean by 'Looks Cool, Not Legit'?

Forge World used to be a mix of making models for stuff that GW didn't make models for, but a lot of it was them making cool stuff that wasn't tournament legal, along with their own books and the like for the models they made. That's changed recently in some regards, but for the longest while Forge World stuff was just highly detailed, badass, expensive stuff that people could pick up that you'd never see on the table at your local store.

We used to run big battles and stuff at the store, and since we were so close to the East Coast Battle Bunker (when it still existed) we had a lot of guys with disposable income (Federal Jobs) that had access to a lot of Forge World stuff. There were a lot of great models, but you always had to frown at the guy bringing in that Hierophant for a 'friendly game' when none of the rulebooks supported it.
 
Forge World used to be a mix of making models for stuff that GW didn't make models for, but a lot of it was them making cool stuff that wasn't tournament legal, along with their own books and the like for the models they made. That's changed recently in some regards, but for the longest while Forge World stuff was just highly detailed, badass, expensive stuff that people could pick up that you'd never see on the table at your local store.

We used to run big battles and stuff at the store, and since we were so close to the East Coast Battle Bunker (when it still existed) we had a lot of guys with disposable income (Federal Jobs) that had access to a lot of Forge World stuff. There were a lot of great models, but you always had to frown at the guy bringing in that Hierophant for a 'friendly game' when none of the rulebooks supported it.

They weren't allowed in tournaments? Do you mean in general, or just specific models? I remember reading about certain things not being allowed, but i thought that was just because of balance reasons rather than just Forgeworld in general.

While i understand someone not being entirely happy as they aren't really 'planning' for someone to use them, they should be just as allowed as anything else in a friendly game, obviously you can refuse to play with someone but they were are official legally supported units.
 
As someone who dabbles pretty infrequently, what is going on with these End Times shenanigans?

As someone who loathes the new Age Of Sigma setting, I really hope they aren't trying to do something like that here.

It's not the same thing really. Age of Sigmar was a reboot of the Warhammer Fantasy line which was reportedly selling terribly, and takes place post-end times after the whole world was blown up. 40K isn't rebooting, just taking a step closer to midnight. Unlike AoS, 8th edition won't be a post-end times 40K.
 
They weren't allowed in tournaments? Do you mean in general, or just specific models? I remember reading about certain things not being allowed, but i thought that was just because of balance reasons rather than just Forgeworld in general.

While i understand someone not being entirely happy as they aren't really 'planning' for someone to use them, they should be just as allowed as anything else in a friendly game, obviously you can refuse to play with someone but they were are official legally supported units.

If it was something that was in a Codex, but GW didn't make it so you had to either customize your own or picked up Forge World's take on it, that was fine. It was mainly a problem with the Forge World books that added their own rules and whatnot on top of the existing game. And yes, that was almost entirely a matter of the rules not being balanced properly against a more regular force.

Mind you, I'm just talking about it from the perspective of someone who had to work there, and deal with some of the more eye-roll issues that popped up now and again. Most of our customers understood that the things were a little unbalanced, or introduced their own weird rules, so it wasn't a big deal. I personally loved whenever they brought in some big resin monstrosity for my to ogle, as we had some really damn good painters coming in. And one of my friends was all about the Death Corps when those first came out... gorgeous models but man was that resin finicky.
 
It's not the same thing really. Age of Sigmar was a reboot of the Warhammer Fantasy line which was reportedly selling terribly, and takes place post-end times after the whole world was blown up. 40K isn't rebooting, just taking a step closer to midnight. Unlike AoS, 8th edition won't be a post-end times 40K.

Hopefully it won't change the overall theme of things either, like having the problems with the Imperium start to be fixed. That's a bit of a concern now they've bought back
Guilliman

If it was something that was in a Codex, but GW didn't make it so you had to either customize your own or picked up Forge World's take on it, that was fine. It was mainly a problem with the Forge World books that added their own rules and whatnot on top of the existing game. And yes, that was almost entirely a matter of the rules not being balanced properly against a more regular force.

Mind you, I'm just talking about it from the perspective of someone who had to work there, and deal with some of the more eye-roll issues that popped up now and again. Most of our customers understood that the things were a little unbalanced, or introduced their own weird rules, so it wasn't a big deal. I personally loved whenever they brought in some big resin monstrosity for my to ogle, as we had some really damn good painters coming in. And one of my friends was all about the Death Corps when those first came out... gorgeous models but man was that resin finicky.

That seems really silly to me. "If GW didn't make it"? Forgeworld is Games Workshop. Like the Black Library, Forgeworld is just a branch of Games Workshop.
 
That seems really silly to me. "If GW didn't make it"? Forgeworld is Games Workshop. Like the Black Library, Forgeworld is just a branch of Games Workshop.

I think maybe some of it stemmed from when GW stamped some rules expansions with an official rules stamp and other rules didn't get that, so people didn't like to play with things that didn't get the official rules stamp.

Things seem a lot different these days though, people are generally more open to Forge World :D
 
Hopefully it won't change the overall theme of things either, like having the problems with the Imperium start to be fixed. That's a bit of a concern now they've bought back
Guilliman



That seems really silly to me. "If GW didn't make it"? Forgeworld is Games Workshop. Like the Black Library, Forgeworld is just a branch of Games Workshop.

It was pretty silly, but for the longest time that was the policy. And despite them being part of the same company, there wasn't a lot of cross pollination between the three of them in the actual stores. Hell, they only added a Black Library section to the brick and mortar store when I had started working there.

I think another bit of it was that the Forge World stuff wasn't readily available. At that time you couldn't walk in and place a Forge World order to go along with your regular Special Orders, so it made it rather exclusive to own them. Besides, I wouldn't really want my resin Thunderhawk on a table for little Timmy to run over and start poking at. (That's a joke, as the disposable income for a Thunderhawk was impossible as an employee there at the time). They had JUST started to trickle in Flyers to 40K when I eventually left for greener pastures. They had just introduced the Valkyrie plastic kit for IG as I recall, to date myself.

I don't know how they do things now, so it may be a completely different ballgame. But that's also because GW decided to shutter practically every store they had.


EDIT - Didn't want to double post. Beasts of War has a nice little bit talking about the new Eldar book. Nice for a little bit of fluff as well.

http://www.beastsofwar.com/warhammer-40k/fracture-bieltan-begins-gathering-storm/
 
It's a really interesting approach that I hadn't thought of them taking. The unification of the eldar, dark eldar, and harlequins under one banner is full of potential both in story as well as narrative gameplay.

A bit of a shame the Eldar Exodites weren't included somewhere as well.
 
I haven't played since about 4th edition, thinking of getting back into it again but i'd need to buy some new stuff. Thinking of getting the Kill Team box set to get the rulebook and an extra squad of Firewarriors for my Tau but then i don't know what i'd do with the Space Marines in the box. Can someone explain how the allies system works - I'm assuming i could just use that Space Marine squad that way?
 
I haven't played since about 4th edition, thinking of getting back into it again but i'd need to buy some new stuff. Thinking of getting the Kill Team box set to get the rulebook and an extra squad of Firewarriors for my Tau but then i don't know what i'd do with the Space Marines in the box. Can someone explain how the allies system works - I'm assuming i could just use that Space Marine squad that way?

You could possibly find someone to trade with, or use the Astartes as painting fodder to try out some color schemes. I haven't played proper in a while either, as Frostgrave and Infinity have been taking up my miniature time.

I have too many projects.

Did anyone see the shots making the rounds about Adeptus Titanicus? Apparently they were playtesting it over the Horus Heresy Weekender using full sized Forge World Titans. It looks all kinds of ridiculous in the best of ways... I'm hoping it ends up getting shrunk down to something manageable. 40K plus Battletech sounds like a lot of fun to me.
 
Yeah that looked insane, hah - I believe they're planning on 8mm scale for Adeptus Titanicus when it arrives.

Another vid today, this one is about Yvraine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8feGSR7TA48
Yvraine, Daughter of Shades, walks with regal grace across a waste-ground of corpses. Clad in the style of the ancient Aeldari and accompanied by a psychic familiar known as a Gyrinx, Yvraine is a magnificent sight, her courtly attire and perfect poise commanding respect.
 
So i've been thinking of going for Teclis blue armour and black cloth for my Tau, but i'm not entirely sure how to paint them in a nice way.

Would i paint the Teclis blue, use a blue wash (or black?), then highlight with a lighter blue? Or would i paint the armour a darker blue, then use the Teclis, then highlight? I really don't know what the best thing to do is. As i haven't really painting anything in about 11 years my painting never went beyond undercoat + basecoat.
 
So i've been thinking of going for Teclis blue armour and black cloth for my Tau, but i'm not entirely sure how to paint them in a nice way.

Would i paint the Teclis blue, use a blue wash (or black?), then highlight with a lighter blue? Or would i paint the armour a darker blue, then use the Teclis, then highlight? I really don't know what the best thing to do is. As i haven't really painting anything in about 11 years my painting never went beyond undercoat + basecoat.

Oh man, I wish I could sit down at a table with you and just paint for a day. It's probably my favorite part of the hobby. It's the only time I've ever really had a Zen moment.

Teclis Blue is a great color, but a common practice is to 'sandwich' that between a darker and lighter tone. I'd do the initial basecoat in a blue a few shades darker than the Teclis, then do the Teclis, and then just do a bit of edging in a lighter blue to make the Teclis pop. With the washes, it depends on what you want the end result to be. If you're trying to be quick about it, I'd do the full paint job, and then do a light wash of either the black or the blue. Blue would help blend everything together, while a black wash would darken everything, but give it a much more shaded look.

If the cloth, or BDU's... whatever, the clothing they wear under their armor... if you paint that in a very dark grey, and then give it a heavy black wash, it will give the impression of black cloth without having to worry about retouching it later. The focus will be the armored bits, but the shading on the cloth will be obviously black. It might take one or two coats of the black wash to darken it up to how you like it.

The big thing with that is that you need a Tertiary color to really make them pop. Things like the optics on their helmets and rifles, as well as whatever extra markings they might have. If you're doing armor markings, a neutral color like a grey or cream sort of tone would be good for stripes and unit markings. If you're going high contrast, orange or yellow would be good for the lenses and markerlights, though I'm more partial to orange as a nice contrast to the blue. You could also focus on a lighter blue, like Ice Blue (or whatever the current version of it is), with a little bit of white to do edges or optical flare.

If you're using any metallics, both gold and silver work well for doing little accent bits. Tau have lots of little panels and bits that you can add some sparkle to that makes them stand out nicely, and they are a lot of fun to paint.

The only thing to be careful about with how you do your washes, is that once you get out of the smaller models, washes can be difficult to apply to larger units without an airbrush or a rigorous attention to application. I found that on vehicles it was a lot easier to do my wash, and then do another layer of the primary coat so I could make sure I get it nice and even without any weird shadow blobs popping up in case I missed spreading the wash around with a brushstroke.
 
Oh man, I wish I could sit down at a table with you and just paint for a day. It's probably my favorite part of the hobby. It's the only time I've ever really had a Zen moment.

Teclis Blue is a great color, but a common practice is to 'sandwich' that between a darker and lighter tone. I'd do the initial basecoat in a blue a few shades darker than the Teclis, then do the Teclis, and then just do a bit of edging in a lighter blue to make the Teclis pop. With the washes, it depends on what you want the end result to be. If you're trying to be quick about it, I'd do the full paint job, and then do a light wash of either the black or the blue. Blue would help blend everything together, while a black wash would darken everything, but give it a much more shaded look.

If the cloth, or BDU's... whatever, the clothing they wear under their armor... if you paint that in a very dark grey, and then give it a heavy black wash, it will give the impression of black cloth without having to worry about retouching it later. The focus will be the armored bits, but the shading on the cloth will be obviously black. It might take one or two coats of the black wash to darken it up to how you like it.

The big thing with that is that you need a Tertiary color to really make them pop. Things like the optics on their helmets and rifles, as well as whatever extra markings they might have. If you're doing armor markings, a neutral color like a grey or cream sort of tone would be good for stripes and unit markings. If you're going high contrast, orange or yellow would be good for the lenses and markerlights, though I'm more partial to orange as a nice contrast to the blue. You could also focus on a lighter blue, like Ice Blue (or whatever the current version of it is), with a little bit of white to do edges or optical flare.

If you're using any metallics, both gold and silver work well for doing little accent bits. Tau have lots of little panels and bits that you can add some sparkle to that makes them stand out nicely, and they are a lot of fun to paint.

The only thing to be careful about with how you do your washes, is that once you get out of the smaller models, washes can be difficult to apply to larger units without an airbrush or a rigorous attention to application. I found that on vehicles it was a lot easier to do my wash, and then do another layer of the primary coat so I could make sure I get it nice and even without any weird shadow blobs popping up in case I missed spreading the wash around with a brushstroke.

Hmm, thanks! That's something i hadn't thought about, i could just paint the blue and dark grey and then give the whole thing a black wash? Would highlights come before or after the wash?

The other thing i was thinking about was black armour with blue cloth, how would i go about doing that?

I was considering using Silver for the sept colour and some of the detail, or maybe just gold or bronze for detail and the sept colour as silver. Either way i'll need to get a few more paints!
 
Hmm, thanks! That's something i hadn't thought about, i could just paint the blue and dark grey and then give the whole thing a black wash? Would highlights come before or after the wash?

The other thing i was thinking about was black armour with blue cloth, how would i go about doing that?

I was considering using Silver for the sept colour and some of the detail, or maybe just gold or bronze for detail and the sept colour as silver. Either way i'll need to get a few more paints!

I find that usually the brighter colors look better as the armor, but I've been happily proven wrong before. If you wanted to do the quick route for your original scheme, hit the cloth with the grey, then hit the armor with a nice even coat of the blue. Hit the whole model with a black wash, and then go to the detail. Since the black is going the dull down that Teclis, you'll want to basically retouch all the armor in the blue, but leave all the little sunken lines that cover the Tau nice and dark. After you get that nice rich blue from the Teclis, either add some white to it to brighten it up, or get a stage lighter, and just use that to give a bit of edge highlight to all of the armor bits to make them stand out.

You'll want to do the things like the lenses after the fact, so they stay nice and bright and don't get muddied by the wash, unless that's the look you're going for. It might be worth it doing the metallic bits before the first wash as well, because the washes tend to blend the brighter golds and silvers down nicely and make them look more natural on the model. You can always go back and retouch some highlights here and there to add some shine.

If you do the reverse color scheme, and do the blue as the cloth, definitely do a test model to make sure you like the way it looks first. I'd make sure to prime the models black, and then paint the blue first. Then go ahead and take a very dark grey... you might even have to add a little bit of black to make it a bit darker, and just highlight the black primer along the edges of the armor. Then give the model a full wash and see how it looks. You might want to pick out a couple bits of the cloth again to make the blue stand out, and maybe re-highlight some of the blacks. But don't write the color scheme off until you get the whole thing done. Having black helmets with a sharply contrasted lens might be rather eye-catching, so I can see it working.

Another thing to think about is how you want to do the weapons. A lot of Tau guys match the guns to the armor, and I find that works well. But don't do the whole gun one color, add some grey for different 'levels' of the gun, to give it a bit of depth and allow it to stand out so it doesn't blur together with the model.

Or just tell me to shut up. That works too. I just really like painting, and love to see other people's work.
 
I find that usually the brighter colors look better as the armor, but I've been happily proven wrong before. If you wanted to do the quick route for your original scheme, hit the cloth with the grey, then hit the armor with a nice even coat of the blue. Hit the whole model with a black wash, and then go to the detail. Since the black is going the dull down that Teclis, you'll want to basically retouch all the armor in the blue, but leave all the little sunken lines that cover the Tau nice and dark. After you get that nice rich blue from the Teclis, either add some white to it to brighten it up, or get a stage lighter, and just use that to give a bit of edge highlight to all of the armor bits to make them stand out.

You'll want to do the things like the lenses after the fact, so they stay nice and bright and don't get muddied by the wash, unless that's the look you're going for. It might be worth it doing the metallic bits before the first wash as well, because the washes tend to blend the brighter golds and silvers down nicely and make them look more natural on the model. You can always go back and retouch some highlights here and there to add some shine.

If you do the reverse color scheme, and do the blue as the cloth, definitely do a test model to make sure you like the way it looks first. I'd make sure to prime the models black, and then paint the blue first. Then go ahead and take a very dark grey... you might even have to add a little bit of black to make it a bit darker, and just highlight the black primer along the edges of the armor. Then give the model a full wash and see how it looks. You might want to pick out a couple bits of the cloth again to make the blue stand out, and maybe re-highlight some of the blacks. But don't write the color scheme off until you get the whole thing done. Having black helmets with a sharply contrasted lens might be rather eye-catching, so I can see it working.

Another thing to think about is how you want to do the weapons. A lot of Tau guys match the guns to the armor, and I find that works well. But don't do the whole gun one color, add some grey for different 'levels' of the gun, to give it a bit of depth and allow it to stand out so it doesn't blur together with the model.

Or just tell me to shut up. That works too. I just really like painting, and love to see other people's work.

Thanks, that's definitely helpful! I've got some Firewarriors i assembled about a decade ago so i'll give the schemes a try with them. The only other thing really is undercoating it, i've got Imperial Primer but that seems a bit difficult to get consistent, and i've also got Chaos Black spray. Would i have to go over either of those again with Abbadon black, or could i just skip the Imperial Primer/Spray and paint them Abbadon Black staight away?
 
Thanks, that's definitely helpful! I've got some Firewarriors i assembled about a decade ago so i'll give the schemes a try with them. The only other thing really is undercoating it, i've got Imperial Primer but that seems a bit difficult to get consistent, and i've also got Chaos Black spray. Would i have to go over either of those again with Abbadon black, or could i just skip the Imperial Primer/Spray and paint them Abbadon Black staight away?

Spraying in Abbadon Black right away should be fine. As long as you have a nice even coat you can build out from there.
 
I've seen hints that Slaanesh might have had something to do with it, which is interesting. It definitely does seem to share some similarities; the typical Slaaneshi Daemon appearance including the horn, devouring souls etc and also mentions that something was watching while the Eldar were summoning it.

I figure it will either be their salvation or hasten their demise. Either way, better to go out with a bang than a whimper.

The one horn is super Slaaneshi, which was the first thing I noticed on the model.
 
I figure it will either be their salvation or hasten their demise. Either way, better to go out with a bang than a whimper.

The one horn is super Slaaneshi, which was the first thing I noticed on the model.

The other interpretation of it is that it looks Slaaneshi because Ynnead was 'replaced' by Slaanesh, with them claiming Eldar Souls instead, so there would be similarities between the two. That doesn't really explain the horn and things like that, though.
 
Unfortunately it seems quite a few of the Tau Firewarriors i got many years ago have their leg armour warped, and it's not just the one leg type that i know a lot of people had trouble with.

Looking at the new box and other models...have they changed the Tau hooves? I can't quite tell, several of the models seem to have completely different look for their hooves. For example:

99070113001_CadreFireblade01.jpg


99800113016_Darkstrider01.jpg


01.jpg


Fireblade has much more seperate toe-like hooves, Darksider has more like two separated curved hooves, then the pathfinder as more like one joined but with two parts.

Is it just me or do they all seem very inconsistent?
 
I think the whole hesitation to use forgeworkd stuff stems from way back when it wasn't easy to check stuff online or have copies of Imperial Armour etc kicking around - any clown could bring some random model or conversion to a game, print out some rules and claim it's forgeworld. I know a lot of people stuck to codex-only rules for that reason.
 

Showaddy

Member
I remember when Forgeworld gear first starting turning up at our gaming nights everyone went mad about it even though the early stuff was super minor or hilariously shit. A guy turned up with a Whirlwind launcher strapped to a Land Raider and everyone swore blind they wouldn't play him, then they realised what a piece of crap it was...
 
I think the whole hesitation to use forgeworkd stuff stems from way back when it wasn't easy to check stuff online or have copies of Imperial Armour etc kicking around - any clown could bring some random model or conversion to a game, print out some rules and claim it's forgeworld. I know a lot of people stuck to codex-only rules for that reason.

I remember when Forgeworld gear first starting turning up at our gaming nights everyone went mad about it even though the early stuff was super minor or hilariously shit. A guy turned up with a Whirlwind launcher strapped to a Land Raider and everyone swore blind they wouldn't play him, then they realised what a piece of crap it was...

Yep, I definitely remember getting vetted before tournaments back in the day for even using basic FW models: like the Salamander Scout Tank or LR Vanquisher. Even though the rules were harmless, and even point-overcosted, people thought you were basically cheating at times. It was a general no-go in tournaments :/

BUt yeah, havign FW stuff be more readily accepted as being mainline rules is awesome IMO. I can only encourage it as resin allows for quicker production and more unique models.
 
I've read that with most Scale Models it's usually best to wash them first because of residue left over from manufacturing which can cause problems with paint, is that something that also applies to GW stuff? I never had any problems with the few things i painted many years ago, but that wasn't a lot.
 

War Peaceman

You're a big guy.
I've read that with most Scale Models it's usually best to wash them first because of residue left over from manufacturing which can cause problems with paint, is that something that also applies to GW stuff? I never had any problems with the few things i painted many years ago, but that wasn't a lot.

Resin: wash with soapy water. Plastic and metal? No need.
 
I've read that with most Scale Models it's usually best to wash them first because of residue left over from manufacturing which can cause problems with paint, is that something that also applies to GW stuff? I never had any problems with the few things i painted many years ago, but that wasn't a lot.

Honestly I only did it with my Resin models. The casting process for resin tends to leave a bit of mold release in the recesses of the model, so it is recommended to let them soak in a bit of warm soapy water for a bit, and then rinse them off with a bit of brushing of a toothbrush.

All my GW plastic and metal models I just slapped together and hit with a coat of primer. Never had a problem.

Not sure about the Finecast stuff, never really messed with that.
 
I've read that with most Scale Models it's usually best to wash them first because of residue left over from manufacturing which can cause problems with paint, is that something that also applies to GW stuff? I never had any problems with the few things i painted many years ago, but that wasn't a lot.

I would wash Forge World's resin minis before painting but you don't need to wash GW's plastics :)
 
Resin: wash with soapy water. Plastic and metal? No need.

I recently put together something by Lindberg and found that Imperial Primer just won't stick to it as it pools together, so realized i should probably wash stuff first to avoid that in the future, although i'm just assuming the problem is due to residue. Good to see i haven't been doing it 'wrong' by not doing that for GW models, though.
 

Eppy Thatcher

God's had his chance.
Primarchs comin back and shit... this is awesome... i had to immediately text my 40k buddy and now we are both hittin each other back and forth about the possibilities

Please Robbie.... go ham sammich on Terra!!!!
 
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