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sixteen-bit
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:10 PM)
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Originally Posted by Sapiens

I live in North America. I have a JPN Megadrive 1 (which sounds crazy amazing through the headphone jack with Senheisers) and I want to buy a XRGB mini - what cable do I need to get?

Do you have any other RGB systems? If so it would be smart to coordinate whether you ant to go all RGB SCART or all JP21 so you only need one adapter for the framemeister. As far as I know, JP Mega Drives work with RGB SCART cables. Mine certainly does, but I believe it's an Asian NTSC (Taiwan, Philippines, Japan) Mega Drive based on the box.
Sapiens
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:17 PM)
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Originally Posted by sixteen-bit

Do you have any other RGB systems? If so it would be smart to coordinate whether you ant to go all RGB SCART or all JP21 so you only need one adapter for the framemeister. As far as I know, JP Mega Drives work with RGB SCART cables. Mine certainly does, but I believe it's an Asian NTSC (Taiwan, Philippines, Japan) Mega Drive based on the box.

I have an original JP Megadrive:



Is RGB Scart version of the FM Solaris sells the best way to go then? What is the best place to buy the cable?
SheepyGuy
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:29 PM)
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Originally Posted by Sapiens

I have an original JP Megadrive:



Is RGB Scart version of the FM Solaris sells the best way to go then? What is the best place to buy the cable?

If you're getting a Framemeister online and not in Japan directly, Solaris is definitely the way to go. For sure get the RGB EUR Scart one; JP21 is totally valid but good cables are harder to come by and switch boxes (should you want one) are even harder to get. Also make sure to get a D-Terminal to component adapter.

For cables, https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/ is usually the best place to go but sometimes their stock can be kind of wonky. When I went about getting new cables (I had a few JP21 cables, I rewired one but others were of not great quality) I got most of them from that site, but for Genesis they had no stock so I ended up getting a cable from this ebay seller on Poland. Comes with a built in sync-strippper (LM1881) so the picture is pristine and the audio sounds great.

For the model 1, the jack on the back only does mono so you'll want a cable with an split to the front headphone jack.
Barrel Cannon
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:36 PM)
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Originally Posted by KC-Slater

Never let them take you to a second location.

I've had this happen before. I was trading AC Brotherhood for UC3 through kijiji. The trader asked me over email to meet at a McDonalds(which is where I usually go kijiji stuff anyways) and changed his mind because he didn't have his own car and couldn't manage to get a ride to the McDonalds. He told me to meet behind his condominium building in the parking lot. I came and parked in the back and sent the email describing my car and said that I was here.

I started feeling the most sketchy vibes. I saw a group of young adults standing behind a dumpster smoking and was wondering if one of them was the seller. I was debating whether to get out of my car and go ask them when I was startled by some light knocking on my window. I looked left and there stood the trader..... a kid who couldn't be older than like 7 or 8. It was one of the funniest kijiji dealings I've had. In hindsight I do feel a bit wrong for giving him AC Brotherhood for UC3.
Sapiens
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:43 PM)
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Originally Posted by SheepyGuy

If you're getting a Framemeister online and not in Japan directly, Solaris is definitely the way to go. For sure get the RGB EUR Scart one; JP21 is totally valid but good cables are harder to come by and switch boxes (should you want one) are even harder to get. Also make sure to get a D-Terminal to component adapter.

For cables, https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/ is usually the best place to go but sometimes their stock can be kind of wonky. When I went about getting new cables (I had a few JP21 cables, I rewired one but others were of not great quality) I got most of them from that site, but for Genesis they had no stock so I ended up getting a cable from this ebay seller on Poland. Comes with a built in sync-strippper (LM1881) so the picture is pristine and the audio sounds great.

For the model 1, the jack on the back only does mono so you'll want a cable with an split to the front headphone jack.


Thank-you. I ordered the cable from the eBay dude. I'll place a pre-order for the XRGB Euro Scart on Solaris.
socksfelloff
Member
(05-18-2017, 03:51 PM)
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I've had several interesting kijiji dealings. My wife had arranged to meet a woman at her apartment to sell some mirrors we were getting rid of and the lady kept putting her off untill after dark then asked her to come. I was beginning to get uncomfortable with this so I told her I would go instead.

After getting the address I realized this apartment was in south Oshawa in a bad neighborhood but my wife insisted she spoke to the woman on the phone and she sounded nice.

When I arrived at the building I called the lady and told her I was in the back parking lot and I was in a blacked out truck. She seemed surprised I was doing the pickup and not my wife and she asked if I could meet her at the back stairwell which I replied no but she couple come meet me in the parking lot and I'll be standing outside my truck.

Well the only people I saw were 2 guys come around the back of the building, took a good look at me and walked away.

I tried calling the number a few times and nothing. I honestly think they planned on robbing my wife or worse. I reported it to the cops and never heard anything back but since then my wife has never tried to do that again and I honestly wouldn't let her anyways.


Another time I was selling a laptop and I was speaking back and forth with a buyer for a good week. He was a nice guy but he was on the fence. I don't usually do this but I felt confident I could invite him over to my house and have him take a look at it since he was paranoid it may be broken.

Dude came over and tried to sell me on a pyramid scheme and had no interest in the laptop! I had to ask him to leave before I made him leave! Since then I'll never invite someone over to my house again off kijiji!
Kawika
Member
(05-18-2017, 08:19 PM)
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Cross posting. Anyone interested in an OSSC?

I like my TV more than the OSSC so I had to make a tough call.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost...&postcount=982

socksfelloff
Member
(05-18-2017, 10:30 PM)
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Originally Posted by Kawika

Cross posting. Anyone interested in an OSSC?

I like my TV more than the OSSC so I had to make a tough call.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost...&postcount=982

You could always grab a dvdo edge which will solve your issues as well as provide some other usefull tools!
Kawika
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(05-19-2017, 06:01 PM)
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Originally Posted by socksfelloff

You could always grab a dvdo edge which will solve your issues as well as provide some other usefull tools!

DVDO Edge are expensive, right?. If I was going to spend that kind of money I would just get a 2nd XRGB-Mini. What benefit does the DVDO provide?

I was going to share how well it works on my < 6 years old samsung 1080p TV. This older TV loves the thing and works with every single scale setting I threw at it.





Genesis works on my 4K (XBR43X800D)



I also got SNES working somewhat on my 4K. I think the main issue with the SNES is that its desyncing a lot. I assume there is a setting to dial up or down the help stabilize the desyncing I am experiencing.



The main reason why I wanted it was a way to play 480p games in 2X mode. My tv supports it but it doesn't look that good. I am probably going to just chain the raw 480p to my component inputs instead. Seems like a great product for someone who wants a really lag free experience for their retro games. Once you wrap your head around all the settings it seems like a great product. That said, I am still selling it because my tv doesn't support the 3x scale which i feel is the sweet spot for playing retro games on 4K TVs.
Vespa
Member
(05-19-2017, 06:50 PM)
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Those pics look great! I had desync's with my 2-chip SNES but not on my 1-chip oddly enough. OSSC is very fiddly and at times it feels like you need some sort of abstract cheat code to get the settings to look correct. Definitely a bit of a learning curve to it.
Last edited by Vespa; 05-19-2017 at 07:19 PM.
Galdelico
Member
(05-19-2017, 07:19 PM)
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Maybe you could wait until the next firmware, Kawika. Not sure it's gonna help you with your setup, but this is what Marqs reported on SHMUPS a few days ago:

Dediced to rewrite majority of the sync processing logic last week as the RTL had too many hacks and duplicated functionality. The new implementation is now more robust and flexible, supporting optimized modes for line2x, interlace passthru with VGA, 480i/576i line3x (1440i/1728i) and line4x (960p/1152p) among corrected h/vsync alignment and VSM_1 detection. I should have done that already a long time ago, but only after a small break from the project followed by a review of the whole codebase it was easier to admit some parts had too much boilerplate and just needed to be redone.

cyborgnumberblue
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(05-19-2017, 07:35 PM)
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+1 on waiting for new firmware, in the span of 2 firmware updates, I've had 100% compatibility with my KS8000, then none. I mainly use it with an ASUS monitor, but I'm confident compatibility with my TV is down the road, for sure.
Ya Dad
Junior Member
(05-20-2017, 12:24 AM)
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Found one of these RGB monitors at one of my stops when I was a delivery driver. I'm new to RGB monitors. Currently using a 36" SD Trinitron with component inputs as my current setup for retro consoles and I'm hoping to pick this one up when it goes for auction next month, if it's any good. (In case the pictures don't load, it's an NEC CM-2591A). Thoughts?

[IMG]http://i64.************/2yzmq2o.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i64.************/15wkz1u.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i67.************/1hc711.jpg[/IMG]
socksfelloff
Member
(05-20-2017, 02:13 AM)
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Originally Posted by Kawika

DVDO Edge are expensive, right?. If I was going to spend that kind of money I would just get a 2nd XRGB-Mini. What benefit does the DVDO provide?

I'm pretty sure I saw an edge going for 150CAD on ebay. It's a handy scaler that allows you to convert any signal (ie the odd resolutions from the OSSC, odd sync on snes) to any clean, traditional, resolution you want. It also has a TON of other features but none that are useful for you already having an OSSC.
cyborgnumberblue
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(05-20-2017, 04:09 AM)
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Originally Posted by socksfelloff

I'm pretty sure I saw an edge going for 150CAD on ebay. It's a handy scaler that allows you to convert any signal (ie the odd resolutions from the OSSC, odd sync on snes) to any clean, traditional, resolution you want. It also has a TON of other features but none that are useful for you already having an OSSC.

I hadn't heard of it til now, so I checked out fudoh's site and it looks like in terms of 240p content, there are much better options than the DVDO Edge, which seems to excel at 480i stuff.
socksfelloff
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(05-20-2017, 04:58 AM)
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Originally Posted by cyborgnumberblue

I hadn't heard of it til now, so I checked out fudoh's site and it looks like in terms of 240p content, there are much better options than the DVDO Edge, which seems to excel at 480i stuff.

The frameister and OSSC are definetly the better all around options. The edge does 480i/p better then the frameister and it alleviates all signal problems from the OSSC so it's not totally obsolete yet.

I happen to have one so I'm glad to still get some use out of it.
dmix90
Member
(05-21-2017, 06:09 PM)
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Are NTSC and PAL signals supposed to have different brightness/color standard values?

I have tried to connect OG Xbox, PS2 and Wii U via component cables to my CRT TV and i only can get correct grayscale out of Xbox with NTSC EEPROM( Enigmah Video Mode Switcher ) and with S-Video/Composite cable on PS2. All consoles are from PAL region. Do not have composite cable for Wii U at this moment and i also saw that it is not possible to get S-Video output from it so even me re-soldering current component cable is out of the question it seems......

This whole mess driving me nuts.
When i switch Xbox back to PAL it becomes as dark as my other consoles via component. Unfortunately that means that i am not able to calibrate my TV properly since i can't squeeze more brightness out of it no matter what i tried. That means that i can get correct output only from NTSC Xbox or from S-Video/Composite.

TV Basics:

Panasonic TX-29P80T
- S-Video input x2, Component input, Composite input x3
- 480i, 576i, does not support progressive scan

Consoles:
- OG Xbox v1.6 PAL + DIY component cable
- PS2 SCPH-39004 PAL + ali component cable + DIY attached S-Video cable to that for testing
- Wii U PAL + ali component cable



NTSC Xbox Component cable: 4 rows visible to various degree = proper calibration
PAL Xbox Component cable: 2 bottom rows at best
PAL PS2 Component: 2 bottom rows at best
PAL PS2 S-Video or Composite cable: 4 rows visible to various degree = proper calibration
PAL Wii U Component cable: 1 bottom row at best...darkest picture completely fucked up

Help!!! Is there something i can do? Is it possible to completely reflash PS2 and Wii U and make them NTSC? Will that even help in this situation?
Last edited by dmix90; 05-21-2017 at 06:17 PM.
alr1ght
bish gets all the credit :)
(05-21-2017, 08:04 PM)
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I picked up a 20" Sony fs100 CRT for $20 and the thing is massive even though it's only a 20". It must be 50lbs or so. I guess I forgot how large my old 27 incher was.
televator
Member
(05-22-2017, 12:24 AM)
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Originally Posted by dmix90

Are NTSC and PAL signals supposed to have different brightness/color standard values?

I have tried to connect OG Xbox, PS2 and Wii U via component cables to my CRT TV and i only can get correct grayscale out of Xbox with NTSC EEPROM( Enigmah Video Mode Switcher ) and with S-Video/Composite cable on PS2. All consoles are from PAL region. Do not have composite cable for Wii U at this moment and i also saw that it is not possible to get S-Video output from it so even me re-soldering current component cable is out of the question it seems......

This whole mess driving me nuts.
When i switch Xbox back to PAL it becomes as dark as my other consoles via component. Unfortunately that means that i am not able to calibrate my TV properly since i can't squeeze more brightness out of it no matter what i tried. That means that i can get correct output only from NTSC Xbox or from S-Video/Composite.

TV Basics:

Panasonic TX-29P80T
- S-Video input x2, Component input, Composite input x3
- 480i, 576i, does not support progressive scan

Consoles:
- OG Xbox v1.6 PAL + DIY component cable
- PS2 SCPH-39004 PAL + ali component cable + DIY attached S-Video cable to that for testing
- Wii U PAL + ali component cable



NTSC Xbox Component cable: 4 rows visible to various degree = proper calibration
PAL Xbox Component cable: 2 bottom rows at best
PAL PS2 Component: 2 bottom rows at best
PAL PS2 S-Video or Composite cable: 4 rows visible to various degree = proper calibration
PAL Wii U Component cable: 1 bottom row at best...darkest picture completely fucked up

Help!!! Is there something i can do? Is it possible to completely reflash PS2 and Wii U and make them NTSC? Will that even help in this situation?

Edit: what test pattern is that? Source?
Last edited by televator; 05-22-2017 at 12:27 AM.
Hero_of_the_Day
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(05-22-2017, 02:39 AM)
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So, how does Hi-def NES compare to an RGB modded NES through the XRGB Mini?
SheepyGuy
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(05-22-2017, 03:23 AM)
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Originally Posted by Hero_of_the_Day

So, how does Hi-def NES compare to an RGB modded NES through the XRGB Mini?

Picture is a bit crisper with less latency but a) the scale factors to get an accurate pixel aspect ratio only do integer scaling and you get a really ugly shimmer when scrolling and b) a lot more of the system had to be reimplemented in FPGA to make HDMI happen and there have been instances of stuff not working correctly (older revisions of everdrive mostly).
dmix90
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(05-22-2017, 07:15 AM)
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Originally Posted by televator

Edit: what test pattern is that? Source?

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

Yeah it says that it is for LCD displays even in link description lol but this picture is very important to be sure that you are not losing details in dark scenes. And if you can't see 4 rows to at least to some degree then your display/media device crushes blacks and it's disgusting.
televator
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(05-22-2017, 12:09 PM)
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Originally Posted by dmix90

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

Yeah it says that it is for LCD displays even in link description lol but this picture is very important to be sure that you are not losing details in dark scenes. And if you can't see 4 rows to at least to some degree then your display/media device crushes blacks and it's disgusting.

Link don't work for me. If this is an RGB full pattern then I'd recommended finding a BT.601 pattern because the signal carrier you are using is component which is governed by 601. A calibration DVD is good for that. Even a BT.709 blu ray calibration is good for this as it's still component standards but just a bit different. RGB and component have different gamma scales.

I find that on my Panasonics going deeper into the gamma curve value (i.e. 2.2, 2.4, 2.6...) is mandatory while keeping the black "brightness" set to mid. This gives me the correct basis for resolving component signals. Even the expanded xycc values can be resolved on my late plasma that supports it without adjustment afterwards.

Edit: the link works for me now. Yeah, don't use that pattern it's good for an RGB full screen, but not meant for component connections.
Last edited by televator; 05-22-2017 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Typo
Riesenfass
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(05-22-2017, 02:16 PM)
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Originally Posted by alr1ght

I picked up a 20" Sony fs100 CRT for $20 and the thing is massive even though it's only a 20". It must be 50lbs or so. I guess I forgot how large my old 27 incher was.

I got a 32 inch of the same model last year for $5, but it nearly killed me and my BIL when we had to move it upstairs in my house. Great picture and features (component in FTW) but God Almighty is it a heavy beast.
polyh3dron
couldn't find a lab with German shepherds
(05-22-2017, 02:20 PM)
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Originally Posted by Azure Phoenix

After speaking to the seller he confirmed that the problem is that the cable provided is a JP21 RGB Scart cable and that EU cables are wired up differently, so I'll need to purchase one of those if I'm using it without an XRGB. Phew, I was super worried was wrong with the unit.

Ohhh yeah. You need to be careful, because plugging JP21-wired SCART cables into EuroSCART devices or vice versa can sometimes fry them. Ideally, you'll want to have everything in your setup EuroSCART, because if you want to get a switcher down the road, it'll be far less painful.
Hero_of_the_Day
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(05-22-2017, 02:28 PM)
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Originally Posted by SheepyGuy

Picture is a bit crisper with less latency but a) the scale factors to get an accurate pixel aspect ratio only do integer scaling and you get a really ugly shimmer when scrolling and b) a lot more of the system had to be reimplemented in FPGA to make HDMI happen and there have been instances of stuff not working correctly (older revisions of everdrive mostly).

So, no need to jump from XRGB to Hi-def, it seems.

I kind of have an issue with my RGB modded NES, though. My picture is kind of dark. Like, I need to crank the brightness on my TV and on the XRGB to get it inline with my SNES. It has a switch to go between the Play 10 mode and whatever the fuck you'd call the normal RGB. The P10 is a good amount brighter, but I can't stand the off colors. Too bad Baphomet has seemingly vanished.
Fuzzy
I would bang a hot farmer!
(05-22-2017, 02:39 PM)
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RetroRGB put up a funny video today showing his early (and shitty) mod work. I love seeing stuff like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldEoFKPEAK0
dubc35
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(05-22-2017, 03:34 PM)
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Originally Posted by Fuzzy

RetroRGB put up a funny video today showing his early (and shitty) mod work. I love seeing stuff like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldEoFKPEAK0

Thanks, I will check it out! I remember Bob and Voultar talking about it in a previous podcast.
dmix90
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(05-22-2017, 03:42 PM)
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Originally Posted by televator

Link don't work for me. If this is an RGB full pattern then I'd recommended finding a BT.601 pattern because the signal carrier you are using is component which is governed by 601. A calibration DVD is good for that. Even a BT.702 blu ray calibration is good for this as it's still component standards but just a bit different. RGB and component have different gamma scales.

I find that on my Panasonics going deeper into the gamma curve value (i.e. 2.2, 2.4, 2.6...) is mandatory while keeping the black "brightness" set to mid. This gives me the correct basis for resolving component signals. Even the expanded xycc values can be resolved on my late plasma that supports it without adjustment afterwards.

Edit: the link works for me now. Yeah, don't use that pattern it's good for an RGB full screen, but not meant for component connections.

Thanks! I think i get it now.... at least partially. When i switch Xbox to NTSC mode it becomes a HD capable machine and internally switches from SD BT.601 to HD BT.709 color standard even if it is still outputting in 480i instead of 480p/720p/1080i. This plays well with my TV since it receives brighter signal that way and i am able to get details in dark scenes. While in PAL mode i am fucked cause for some reason( probably TV is too old, after certain value Brightness setting just stops affecting picture ) i can't get more needed brightness from it without making picture too blue or too green.

I used a couple of different patterns like these and results are the same when in PAL mode:


So PAL consoles use BT.601 and Xbox is capable to switch to different standard via software. I guess question is... are NTSC PS2 and NTSC Wii U will use the HD color standard when connected via component cable and is it possible to switch those PAL consoles to different standard via software like Xbox?

....Burn in hell PAL!
Shin Johnpv
Ninty Ninty Ninty
Ninty Ninty Ninty
(05-22-2017, 05:29 PM)
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Originally Posted by Hero_of_the_Day

So, how does Hi-def NES compare to an RGB modded NES through the XRGB Mini?

My Life in Gaming did a video for that comparison.

https://youtu.be/TI60A3DpI6w

Just note that the video was done a few Firmwares ago. Since then the interpolation feature was fixed and then removed to fix some other bugs. Kevtris has also addeded a bunch more palettes to it and they all seem to be working much better. (there was a bug/issue with the implementation of a palette or two in previous firmwares)
televator
Member
(Yesterday, 02:11 AM)
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Originally Posted by dmix90

Thanks! I think i get it now.... at least partially. When i switch Xbox to NTSC mode it becomes a HD capable machine and internally switches from SD BT.601 to HD BT.709 color standard even if it is still outputting in 480i instead of 480p/720p/1080i. This plays well with my TV since it receives brighter signal that way and i am able to get details in dark scenes. While in PAL mode i am fucked cause for some reason( probably TV is too old, after certain value Brightness setting just stops affecting picture ) i can't get more needed brightness from it without making picture too blue or too green.

I used a couple of different patterns like these and results are the same when in PAL mode:


So PAL consoles use BT.601 and Xbox is capable to switch to different standard via software. I guess question is... are NTSC PS2 and NTSC Wii U will use the HD color standard when connected via component cable and is it possible to switch those PAL consoles to different standard via software like Xbox?

....Burn in hell PAL!

In BT709 there are TVs that support negative color values that exceed the range of standard component. So you might get an RGB test pattern that looks more intact. when your TV detects 601, it clips those ranges. That's my hypothesis anyway.
v1perz53
Member
(Yesterday, 07:31 AM)
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So I recently got a great deal on an RGB modded NES + Framemeister combo and its been amazing so far to finally see my retro games looking awesome on my HDTV. I've been having an issue getting optimal settings though, and haven't been able to find any answers online. I followed the instructions for optimal NES settings on the XRGB-mini wiki but when I play games that have vertical screen scrolling (such as FF1) I get a weird effect on the top and bottom of the screen. Here's a GIF of what I'm getting (spoiler tags cause the GIF gets annoying):

Not quite sure what is causing this, or what settings to tweak. Is this something to do with my TV settings or Framemeister settings? I found a few picture configs online for NES, and some of them even fix the problem, but they all mess with scanlines substantially, so I'm trying to find a solution that fixes this without costing me scanlines. If anyone has any ideas or good sources for config examples I'd appreciate it.

E: I know a similar thing happens even on the NES classic version of FF1, but it is much less severe so I'm mostly wondering how to change settings to at least get it to that level.
Last edited by v1perz53; Yesterday at 07:39 AM.
Peagles
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(Yesterday, 07:49 AM)
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Originally Posted by v1perz53

So I recently got a great deal on an RGB modded NES + Framemeister combo and its been amazing so far to finally see my retro games looking awesome on my HDTV. I've been having an issue getting optimal settings though, and haven't been able to find any answers online. I followed the instructions for optimal NES settings on the XRGB-mini wiki but when I play games that have vertical screen scrolling (such as FF1) I get a weird effect on the top and bottom of the screen. Here's a GIF of what I'm getting (spoiler tags cause the GIF gets annoying):



Not quite sure what is causing this, or what settings to tweak. Is this something to do with my TV settings or Framemeister settings? I found a few picture configs online for NES, and some of them even fix the problem, but they all mess with scanlines substantially, so I'm trying to find a solution that fixes this without costing me scanlines. If anyone has any ideas or good sources for config examples I'd appreciate it.

E: I know a similar thing happens even on the NES classic version of FF1, but it is much less severe so I'm mostly wondering how to change settings to at least get it to that level.

Check your overscan settings?
TeaJay
Member
(Yesterday, 08:06 AM)
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Honestly that looks pretty normal to me, lots of old games have that kind of stuff going on.

But yea if you want to hide it you can try to overscan more.
jsnepo
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(Yesterday, 09:04 AM)
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Any comparisons between a NES over RGB and Wii Virtual Console over component?
Brhoom
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(Yesterday, 09:10 AM)
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Originally Posted by jsnepo

Any comparisons between a NES over RGB and Wii Virtual Console over component?

https://youtu.be/r3QNALuSkLA

Skip to 11:15
jsnepo
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(Yesterday, 09:46 AM)
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Originally Posted by Brhoom

https://youtu.be/r3QNALuSkLA

Skip to 11:15

Is it that for Wii U? I'm just asking for the original Wii or is the Virtual Console for both the same?

edit: Nevermind, I saw what you mean. Thanks! It's better than the Wii U for sure but still too dark.
Shin Johnpv
Ninty Ninty Ninty
Ninty Ninty Ninty
(Yesterday, 11:23 AM)
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Originally Posted by v1perz53

So I recently got a great deal on an RGB modded NES + Framemeister combo and its been amazing so far to finally see my retro games looking awesome on my HDTV. I've been having an issue getting optimal settings though, and haven't been able to find any answers online. I followed the instructions for optimal NES settings on the XRGB-mini wiki but when I play games that have vertical screen scrolling (such as FF1) I get a weird effect on the top and bottom of the screen. Here's a GIF of what I'm getting (spoiler tags cause the GIF gets annoying):



Not quite sure what is causing this, or what settings to tweak. Is this something to do with my TV settings or Framemeister settings? I found a few picture configs online for NES, and some of them even fix the problem, but they all mess with scanlines substantially, so I'm trying to find a solution that fixes this without costing me scanlines. If anyone has any ideas or good sources for config examples I'd appreciate it.

E: I know a similar thing happens even on the NES classic version of FF1, but it is much less severe so I'm mostly wondering how to change settings to at least get it to that level.

This is a totally normal thing, and its something you would see on certain side scrolling titles as well, just on the sides. To put it simply, it's from the way background layers/tiles are loaded and there's a limited amount of space so you're getting the top or bottom kind of duplicating. Normally this wouldn't be seen do to a CRTs normal overscan.
socksfelloff
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(Yesterday, 01:33 PM)
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Originally Posted by TeaJay

Honestly that looks pretty normal to me, lots of old games have that kind of stuff going on.

But yea if you want to hide it you can try to overscan more.

Agreed. Lots of older games did stuff like that but it's cropped off on a CRT.
v1perz53
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(Yesterday, 03:09 PM)
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Originally Posted by socksfelloff

Agreed. Lots of older games did stuff like that but it's cropped off on a CRT.

Oh yea I know this, I'm just wondering if there is a way to change the settings to more closely emulate CRT cropping, since the amount that it happens on both top and bottom is kind of distracting. Would I change settings on my Framemeister, like V Pos/Width, or a setting on my TV itself? That's pretty much the main question I was asking, how to get it to look as similar as possible to what I would see on my old CRT.

Originally Posted by jsnepo

Any comparisons between a NES over RGB and Wii Virtual Console over component?

Here's a gif of what it looks like on Wii VC via component. Notice how it still happens, but only on the bottom of the screen and much smaller area. Basically just asking how to get the two pictures to match, and if it would more likely be a TV setting or a Framemeister setting. Ideally one that doesn't ruin scanlines.

Shin Johnpv
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(Yesterday, 03:19 PM)
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Originally Posted by v1perz53

Oh yea I know this, I'm just wondering if there is a way to change the settings to more closely emulate CRT cropping, since the amount that it happens on both top and bottom is kind of distracting. Would I change settings on my Framemeister, like V Pos/Width, or a setting on my TV itself? That's pretty much the main question I was asking, how to get it to look as similar as possible to what I would see on my old CRT.

You could use FirebrandX's 5x profile for the NES. Which causes you to loose a few pixels on the top and bottom of the image (at least for the 1080p profile).
Shin Johnpv
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(Yesterday, 03:36 PM)
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The maker of the DB GrafxBooster put up a blog post about all the miss information in Adam Koralik's "TG16 Best Possible Video Quality". I'm sure it will come as no surprise to people here but I am not a fan of Adam or the insane amount of miss information he spreads in his videos. It's also a good read on getting familiar with the PC Engine/TG16 and what it can do video signal wise.

http://db-electronics.ca/2017/05/19/...video-quality/
Fuzzy
I would bang a hot farmer!
(Yesterday, 03:45 PM)
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I blame the Retro Roundtable guys for getting me to watch Koralik videos because they're so horrible. His hand gestures are fucking hypnotic also.
sixteen-bit
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(Yesterday, 04:15 PM)
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More MLiG and phonedork, less AK pls
SheepyGuy
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(Yesterday, 04:24 PM)
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Originally Posted by v1perz53

Oh yea I know this, I'm just wondering if there is a way to change the settings to more closely emulate CRT cropping, since the amount that it happens on both top and bottom is kind of distracting. Would I change settings on my Framemeister, like V Pos/Width, or a setting on my TV itself? That's pretty much the main question I was asking, how to get it to look as similar as possible to what I would see on my old CRT.



Here's a gif of what it looks like on Wii VC via component. Notice how it still happens, but only on the bottom of the screen and much smaller area. Basically just asking how to get the two pictures to match, and if it would more likely be a TV setting or a Framemeister setting. Ideally one that doesn't ruin scanlines.

You'd have to overscan/crop pretty hard to get rid of it completely. There's pretty much no setting that gets rid of it completely and doesn't also cut off something useful in another game.

Some games have it on one side, some on the other, some on top, some on the bottom, some just do a better job of hiding the glitch, others an exceptionally poor job (Mario 3).

This video does a really good job of explaining what causes the glitch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfrNnwJrujw
Last edited by SheepyGuy; Yesterday at 04:28 PM.
Laevateinn
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(Yesterday, 04:36 PM)
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but Adam Koreafhiofd said that I can get 1080p from my Dreamcast by using an HDMI cable. Why would he lie?
mattwhite924
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(Yesterday, 04:43 PM)
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Do you all know of any good way to get VGA signals to HDMI?

Specifically I just ordered a Razer ripsaw capture device, and I'd like to be able to capture footage from my retro PCs.
I know there's VGA to HDMI converters, but it sounds like most of them can't handle 320x200 @ 70Hz that a lot of DOS games use. They might be ok for 640x480 and up games in Windows 9x

I've also got a Framemeister, so I wonder if there's a way to get VGA into it? Though again, I'm not sure how it would handle a 70Hz signal.

I did see this device
https://www.beharbros.com/kenzei
Maybe it could help.

I don't know. I'm just curious if anyone here has attempted to capture some of these older PC games and how they did it.
televator
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(Yesterday, 04:46 PM)
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Originally Posted by sixteen-bit

More MLiG and phonedork, less AK pls

Should be a thread rule. lol
alr1ght
bish gets all the credit :)
(Yesterday, 04:49 PM)
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Good component switcher? I need one for my Wii and PS2.
SheepyGuy
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(Yesterday, 05:01 PM)
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Originally Posted by mattwhite924

Do you all know of any good way to get VGA signals to HDMI?

Specifically I just ordered a Razer ripsaw capture device, and I'd like to be able to capture footage from my retro PCs.
I know there's VGA to HDMI converters, but it sounds like most of them can't handle 320x200 @ 70Hz that a lot of DOS games use. They might be ok for 640x480 and up games in Windows 9x

I've also got a Framemeister, so I wonder if there's a way to get VGA into it? Though again, I'm not sure how it would handle a 70Hz signal.

I did see this device
https://www.beharbros.com/kenzei
Maybe it could help.

I don't know. I'm just curious if anyone here has attempted to capture some of these older PC games and how they did it.

I don't do capture at all but I have a couple of generic from-China VGA to HDMI boxes. I could try them with my Win98 PC later today to see how they handle DOS games. But even if they work the output might not work with your HDMI capture thing.

FWIW they didn't work at all with 240p (my test for that was a DC outputting VGA forced into 240p mode).

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