How much better do you think axe FX is in comparison to s-gear? Is the price justified in terms of sound quality? Did you still get that slight clipping on long sustained notes with distortion? That's something that's always bugged me about modeling.
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Guitar Gaf |OT| Fingerpickin good
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adamsappel
Member
Play left-handed. Don't work against how your brain is wired. I often watch YouTube videos of lefty players in a mirror beside by iMac, otherwise I can't make sense of it. Even the guitars look wrong.
Is there a local musical instruments store you can try/buy from? I suspect that thin necks give me pain in my small hands, but I haven't narrowed it down that far yet. You might find you like a different shape neck. Your selection as a lefty is going to be more limited, but you can get a very nice guitar in your price range. If you even want to spend that much.
I would not buy that Schecter for your first guitar. Nothing against Schecter, but it has a Floyd Rose, which is hard to restring and tune; I think beginners should avoid tremolo until the basics are down. I will once again pimp rondomusic.com for first guitar buyers. It has a good selection of lefty models. They are inexpensive, but well-built, with adequate electronics to learn on and upgrade later if you stick with it. Or buy used gear. There are plenty of good deals from Guitar Center or Reverb.
Playing electric? Maybe try .09 strings? Different neck thickness? I know heavier strings are popular nowadays.
That's just cause the cool kids all want to djent 4 steps tuned down. Including me but not tuned terribly low. I do have like 13-76 on my 7 string.
I'll have to get back to you on the S gear and Axe FX tomorrow night. Didn't have the Axe FX when I tried S gear and haven't compared them. It depends slightly what you need though. I need something I can take with me and it isn't going to be a computer lol.
So much of what you're saying applies to me as a fellow southpaw with joint problems! Unfortunately I only ever played a Squire Strat so I can't give you good impressions about the width of different guitar necks.
Like others said, it might be better to go with the non-FR version of the Omen. Easier to play and maintain plus you save some money on it. Another option from Schecter is the Stealth C-1, it's on sale now.
Syncytia's recomandation of the ESP LTD EC-256 also seems like a solid choice. There's also the ESP LTD KH-202 and while it doesn't seem as versatile as the EC-256 based on what I watched on youtube it might fit better with the sound you want.
Like others said, Amp or no Amp? Might want to consider the Marshall MG15CF if yes.
Trojita
Rapid Response Threadmaker
Thanks for all the info. Sorry for not answering the amp question. I would be going with an amp.
I was big on 12s for a while and then put 10s on one day and never went back, so much easier in my fingers and hands and while they weren't as "full" sounding the physical benefits well out weighed the tone
adamsappel
Member
We live in a golden age of good quality, inexpensive guitar equipment. You can buy perfectly adequate starter guitars or amps for $200 from any number of manufacturers. You can improve amps with speaker (and/or tube, if you go that route) swaps, but I don't think a new guitarist notices those shortcomings right away. The Boss Katana is worthy of consideration. You get Boss' entire lineup of pedals to assign, it's plenty loud, lightweight, simple to operate. If you'd rather try tube amps, a good basic one is the 15W Monoprice. These go on sale all the time, but they also sell out quickly, on-sale or not. At this stage of my development, I prefer an amp with preset voices, and I like those offered by the Fender Super Champ X2 and the VOX AV series.
I still like to experiment with string gauges and types, but prefer D'Addario as a manufacturer. I was surprised recently when I discovered a pick material that I could hear make a difference in my tone: Dunlop Ultex. Try out different straps, too. A comfortable strap is worth the money, and a bad strap will keep you from playing.
I still like to experiment with string gauges and types, but prefer D'Addario as a manufacturer. I was surprised recently when I discovered a pick material that I could hear make a difference in my tone: Dunlop Ultex. Try out different straps, too. A comfortable strap is worth the money, and a bad strap will keep you from playing.
Satanic Saint
Member
Please do not go with the Marshall MG15CF though. The whole range had a lot of quality issues and I have heard a lot of bad things about them. What is your budget for the amp?
You can look up the Yamaha THR amps, they are pretty good amps for home practice use. The new Boss Katana amps are very good as well. You can also check out the new Marshall Code amps and the new line of Line 6 Spider amps. And if you want a really cheap modeling amp, go for the Fender Mustang series. The only thing about them is that they are a bit outdated compared tot he other amps I listed, but you'll get them for cheap.
Huh. I recommenced it on the basis that Marshalls seem to be favored among heavy sound guitar players.
teruterubozu
Member
This is definitely the golden age for affordable quality gear. When I first started I played a beat up crappy single-bridge Hondo Les Paul copy with action as high as the Everest. I look at these starter packs with Ibanez Gios and a Floyd Rose style tremolo systems for under $200 and it's crazy what beginners can have today! It's also a total buyers' market in the used market these days as well. $200 can get you a killer used guitar these days.
I do like the Boss Katana. I almost got the 50w, maybe some other day. It's an incredible deal for $99.
I use it direct into GarageBand sometimes (headphone out), it's decent. Distorts way too quick with any boost/OD in front of it but otherwise has a good voice.
Prefer using Orange 35RT for direct recording as the clean doesn't distort as easy and the speaker sim is a bit warmer
Thank you for this. I might buy an orange amp for this purpose, heard a lot of good stuff.
Cabsim is amazing on the 20 and 35 series, not so amazing in the Micro series strangely enough.
I play my 35RT 90% of the time while my AC15 sits in the garage (way too cold to go out to wait for tubes to warm up and play and it's way too loud to play with kids sleeping/napping).
Simon Belmont
Banned
I use elixers and swap my strings out about every three months. Not really any specific timeline, just when they start to sound dead and I can notice the build up on the G and B strings.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
I play my guitars (11!) in spurts, and change them if they need it when I want to play a particular one. Unfortunately I am out of strings and they all need it.
I also buy in bulk on the internet to save a few dollars (or more) a pack. All but one of my electrics are set up to use the same gauge (.011-something, wound third) so that makes logistics easier. I put coated strings on my acoustics which greatly improves their life; I don't on electric since I bend a lot so it is lack of elasticity more than corrosion that ends them (though it is corrosion too if I leave them).
teruterubozu
Member
No set schedule. Just whenever they feel and sound dull. Whenever Guitar Center has their sales I stock up on Ernie Balls. Usually it's 1 for $5, but one sale periods they sell 3 for $10. Ebay is also a great place to buy strings in bulk.
adamsappel
Member
"Huh. When did I install black strings on this guitar? Oh..."
teruterubozu
Member
My ESP with Floyd Rose basically has black strings on it.. After changing the strings on it a few times it wasn't worth the aggravation when I hardly played it anyway.
I don't know how people who play with a Floyd Rose as their #1 guitar do it.. Changing the strings was like preforming guitar surgery.
I don't know how people who play with a Floyd Rose as their #1 guitar do it.. Changing the strings was like preforming guitar surgery.
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
I use to do it every month. Now, I just do it when they get to feeling bad. I use Elixirs on my acoustic, and they last a good long time. I use GHS on electric, but they don't last as long.
Yup which is why I specially ordered a guitar that's got a fixed bridge. What a headache.
Lionheart1827
Member
Yeah its annoying. Somehow, 2 of my 6 guitars has a licensed floyd. There are some tricks to make the restringing process faster, biggest one being to use a 9 volt battery to block the bridge before restringing so you dont have to constantly adjust the bridge tension again. In the end though, they are good if you have a tech to do it for you
Sometimes those crazy Dime/Satch squeals are worth it...sometimes My Viper Deluxe with Sperzel locking tuners is still my favorite guitar, especially since I can pick it up and not worry about having to restring it if the thing is gets out of tune too much
nabe_shogun
Member
Last two times on the les paul is when I wanted a different tuning, so I only changed so I could have different gauges.
My LTD probably has the originals from 2014. I bought it used in 2015 and I haven't changed them.
travislopes
Member
I change them out every once in a while. Since one of my Strats has vintage tuning machine heads, I some times need more than just the set of six strings as I end up breaking one or two along the way.
I ended up just buying a 25 set of D'Addario EXL110s. Much easier to manage than a bunch of packs of strings lying around the house.
I ended up just buying a 25 set of D'Addario EXL110s. Much easier to manage than a bunch of packs of strings lying around the house.
I pretty much only change strings whenever I break one. Which probably isn't often enough as far as string changes go. I don't think I ever get to the point where I notice they start sounding bad though.
Look into the Yamaha THR10. Was pretty surprised when I tried one out.
Also... I'll have to get that Axe FX and S Gear comparison tomorrow... or hopefully at least this weekend. I'm pretty curious to hear how they compare.
Look into the Yamaha THR10. Was pretty surprised when I tried one out.
Also... I'll have to get that Axe FX and S Gear comparison tomorrow... or hopefully at least this weekend. I'm pretty curious to hear how they compare.
Thanks a lot.
What is the difference in the sound quality of something like recording direct with this Yamaha amp and something like s gear? Isn't it the same type of amp modeling or does the hardware make a real difference?
I owned a THR10, fantastic practice amp, but it is literally 5 times the price of a Fly 3 and honestly the effects are only ok (the clean is great). I'd save the $$ and get a Fly 3 which has fantastic clean and decent dirt with a decent tape delay...for 1/5 of the price.
nabe_shogun
Member
So a week ago I went down to a guitar center and bought a new guitar. I was interested in an explorer, and right now all the music stores are clearing out their 2016 models. So I ended up getting an explorer faded, which originally was $1299, but marked down to $999. I also traded in my ibanez rg7421, which I got $150 for, which is also what I paid for it. Then I got another 10% off the gibson due to trading something in. So after tax I only paid like $820 or so. I think I did pretty good.
I'm excited for it. I've always liked explorers, but didn't like how they all came with ugly pickguards, which is one reason I went for this model. I also like the plain wood look as well. It also only has 2 knobs instead of the standard 3, and has the switch by the knobs, as well as the input jack on the front. It needs a set-up though, as right now the action is way high, but expected as most guitars come like that from the factory.
huge box
the new gibson next to my epiphone
only came with a gig bag though, as you need to spend a lot more now for gibson to give you a hard case.
I'm excited for it. I've always liked explorers, but didn't like how they all came with ugly pickguards, which is one reason I went for this model. I also like the plain wood look as well. It also only has 2 knobs instead of the standard 3, and has the switch by the knobs, as well as the input jack on the front. It needs a set-up though, as right now the action is way high, but expected as most guitars come like that from the factory.
huge box
the new gibson next to my epiphone
only came with a gig bag though, as you need to spend a lot more now for gibson to give you a hard case.
nabe_shogun
Member
Sounds like you did good. But judging from those pics.. Did you really need a deal?
Yes. The two explorers ,two of the pedals on the ground and the Mesa 1x12 cab are the only things that I paid for. Everything else my dad bought and is his, because I'm still a poor student living at home and he makes a lot more than I do.
Was joking, it crossed my mind that maybe it wasn't all yours. But congrats on your deal, ya did good.
I more said it out of jealously. I want that space.
nabe_shogun
Member
Oh don't worry I'm jealous too of what my dad buys sometimes.
Anyway, I'll probably be keeping my epiphone explorer, but I might try modding it. The killpot doesn't work anyway, so I need to do some fixing.
You work on your guitars? I'm brand new to it, just leaned how to inonate lol. Do you know the best way to open nut slots a little? I got a graphite nut installed but I'm still getting strings caught. When I bend I drop in pitch, then the strings slowly get sharp as they slide back into place.
And good luck on the killpot.
teruterubozu
Member
Very cool!! Did you get a photograph of your guitar getting set up at the factory? I like that touch with new Gibsons. I love the faded models, I got a 2017 Gibson SG Faded and it rocks! Unfortunately the 2016s got fucked over when it comes to the hard case, they're not necessarily cheaper because of it. The 2017s come with a hard case at $1299 original cost, whereas the 2016s did not at $1299 (before the drop to $999). For some reason they decided to be cheap last year.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
I would try putting graphite (such as from pencil lead) or a little vaseline/chapstick in the slots before attempting to widen them without nut files.
It's frustrating because my nut is MADE out of graphite.
which was the entire point of the replacement. But thanks for the suggestion.Hi guitarGAF!!
I picked up a few new things this week:
Orange PPC112 cab with the Micro Dark 20w amp head.
I'm amazed at this thing (micro dark). Huge value!
I'm playing with a Schecter C-1 platinum diamond series with EMG active pickups.
Very happy with this setup!
Any other micro dark users out there?
I picked up a few new things this week:
Orange PPC112 cab with the Micro Dark 20w amp head.
I'm amazed at this thing (micro dark). Huge value!
I'm playing with a Schecter C-1 platinum diamond series with EMG active pickups.
Very happy with this setup!
Any other micro dark users out there?
Netherscourge
Banned
I just used a make-shift block on my Ibanez EX to lock my floating Floyd Rose tremolo in place.
Took 3 wooden paint-stirrers, taped them together, slid them behind the tremolo block. Easy peasy.
They sell an adjustable $40 kit on Amazon too - you just screw it into the spring-shaft inside the guitar and it holds the tremolo block in place.
But I always go the cheap route.
Took 3 wooden paint-stirrers, taped them together, slid them behind the tremolo block. Easy peasy.
They sell an adjustable $40 kit on Amazon too - you just screw it into the spring-shaft inside the guitar and it holds the tremolo block in place.
But I always go the cheap route.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
It's frustrating because my nut is MADE out of graphite.
Huh.
I have done the following, but a quick Google earlier didn't find anyone else suggesting it which is why I didn't suggest it earlier.
Loosen the string for the slot in question. Like completely loose. Get some fairly fine sand paper and fold it over the string for the slot you want to widen. Use it and the string to widen the nut slot. If you have the fold upwards you shouldn't make the slot any deeper.
Someone speak up if this is terrible advice.
Here's a useful page on how to cut nuts properly.
I've seen this method recommended before, so should be ok.
Vid example here around the 4:45 mark:
https://youtu.be/yfmrmlnG_p8
Thanks so much for this. I'll try it out.
As someone who has done a lot of woodworking, absolutely no problem with doing this. It's probably a really good option especially if you need to do every slot for thick strings.
But yeah, this is absolutely fine go for it. Like the guy says though, go slow. Sanding stuff down, especially when it it's small, can go surprisingly fast. And be sure to use a high grit sand paper as he mentions. If it's low grit (really rough) you will take off a lot of material really fast, and then need to increase the grit anyway to smooth it out.
teruterubozu
Member
Yup, I did this one my DIY guitar. Sandpaper under string and rub it together onto the nut slot. It totally worked! You just have to be careful and keep checking. If you file off too much, you'll have to replace the nut.
adamsappel
Member
I realized if I one day wanted to sell my Hello Kitty collection (Hello Kitty Strat and strap, pink VOX DA-5 and pink VOX cable),
I would lose my favorite bedroom amp. This will not do. Found another on Reverb.
Might pick up a red one if I stumble across it at the right price. Not a huge fan of camo, but as with guitars, I am sick of black amps.
I would lose my favorite bedroom amp. This will not do. Found another on Reverb.
Might pick up a red one if I stumble across it at the right price. Not a huge fan of camo, but as with guitars, I am sick of black amps.