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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Will the HDR change settings automatically like how the Netflix app changes settings when you watch a HDR movie?

That's the dream. Hopefully "Rudy1" on AVSForum isn't just yanking our chains. All our hopes are pinned on the validity of his posts in that thread.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Yeah I go back and forth on the gamma. But the brightness at 42 seems to be the sweet spot, one notch higher and the whole screen changes to grey instead of black.

The hardest part with setting this tv is just coming to terms with the fact you will never get a perfect picture.

Also I just realised I have become a Member! Wooo

Glad to see people happy about this again.
 

chaosaeon

Member
So a new update comes out, again no on knows what it does, no one can see that it does anything at all, and everyone just continues waiting for something they've been asking about since the TV came out. Smh.
 

BLAUcopter

Gold Member
Definitely the last Samsung TV I buy. Way too much fucking around with settings and the HDR implementation is a pain in the ass to get working right. The updates are useless too, how about a change log you morons? Jesus.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Definitely the last Samsung TV I buy. Way too much fucking around with settings and the HDR implementation is a pain in the ass to get working right. The updates are useless too, how about a change log you morons? Jesus.

That's how HDR is on all HDTVs right now. It's still a new thing.
 

Grinchy

Banned
Is there a good way to calibrate for HDR? I use the Disney WOW bluray to calibrate for SDR. I've basically just been using my SDR settings with HDR changes (Backlight max, Smart LED High, ect) for my HDR content because I don't have a way to do any kind of calibration for it.
 
The Samsung US website for the KS8000 has been updated. The design changed slightly a few days ago but last night they put up the 1207.2 firmware in case anyone needed the USB version. There are no release notes and of course we know that 1208.2 is the latest version so as always they are a day late and a dollar short.
 

SNIKT!

Member
I have burn in now on my ks8000 from my taskbar. Super bummed. I don't know how it happened. I've had my PC on for hours with no issue, but came home last night, flipped it on and noticed the taskbar burned into the bottom of my screen.
 

Grinchy

Banned
I have burn in now on my ks8000 from my taskbar. Super bummed. I don't know how it happened. I've had my PC on for hours with no issue, but came home last night, flipped it on and noticed the taskbar burned into the bottom of my screen.

I can't say if this still works, but on my 2009 model Samsung LCD, I got some burn-in from using a black and white desktop background. I had to leave my TV unplugged for a few days to get it to go away. I can't say if that works on LEDs or not.
 
That's the dream. Hopefully "Rudy1" on AVSForum isn't just yanking our chains. All our hopes are pinned on the validity of his posts in that thread.

Ya know I've been thinking about that too. I'm like "what if this guy is like the BigSean666 from the EA controversy?" I sure hope not. I'm tired of having to pump the backlight to 20 every time I play an HDR capable game then lower it to 13 for everything else.
 
I have burn in now on my ks8000 from my taskbar. Super bummed. I don't know how it happened. I've had my PC on for hours with no issue, but came home last night, flipped it on and noticed the taskbar burned into the bottom of my screen.

I have a similar issue with my KU6300, after watching a movie there will be image retention where the black bars were. The bottom part of the screen seems to recover pretty quickly. The top part takes a bit longer. Usually turning the TV off overnight (or a couple of hours gets rid of it). Watching regular content also seems to recover the image retention.

Odd thing is, it only seems to do it with movies. Playing video games it seems fine with zero image retention. Although I am unsure as to how long a static solid black image takes to cause image retention. When I first got the TV on October 13th from an Ebay retailer it seemed fine. Watched a couple of 4K movies and never noticed any image retention. Maybe a firmware update caused it? I am not sure, there were one or two updates before I began noticing the image retention.

There are methods of getting rid of image retention (or image persistence), usually involving running a white screen or running a screen saver that flips through bright colors. I also noticed yesterday on my BenQ VW2230H that I use with my PC also had image persistence with the Taskbar. It's very light and almost unnoticeable. But I switched to the Light Theme and started hiding the Taskbar. Hopefully the image persistence on my monitor clears up soon.
 

nikos

Member
After a year of messing with HDR I have decided that LED/OLED/LCD are just not up to it yet.

ATM you can't have a full HDR experience without white clipping, to get white levels at 100% you need to have contrast set to 70, for non crushed blacks you need brightness at 55. Welcome ugly dim, washed out image.

You have to compromise between white clipping/luminescence. I cannot wait to see this tech improve over the years. Almost changed to an LG B7 until I realised they have similar problems with crushing blacks and blown out whites.

I have used these settings for the last few months, I have altered them but always went back. You will get a little white clipping and a minimal amount of black crush, but that's the price you pay for the HDR effect, it still looks fantastic.. but the white level sits about 90ish%.

Movie Setting
Backlight 20
Brightness 42
Contrast 100
Sharpness 13
Colour 50
Smart LED High
Dynamic Contrast Medium
Colour Tone Warm 1
Gamma -2

Also make sure you set the in game HDR settings properly. I find this gets bright highlights, deep blacks, great colour. Yes you will sacrifice a little white detail, but unless you are studying every line in every cloud with it off and on, you won't notice. But the slight percentage loss is well worth it.

Anyway, it doesn't really matter. You best calibration tools are your eyes, do what looks best for you. Don't be afraid to play about with the settings, learn what does what.

I've been using similar settings. Only differences being Dynamic Contrast on Low and Gamma at 0. I'll definitely try these out tomorrow.
 

philm87

Member
Anybody got a switch box they could recommend to get round the lack of HDR passthrough on the PSVR v1 that definitely works with this TV?
 

philm87

Member
Lol at getting the settings to look amazing when playing a game, then putting on another game and your settings look terrible.

Never have this problem. Try to find a good balance. I'm guessing this is more likely to happen if you have certain settings set far out such as having sharpness too high.

What is it that usually looks terrible when changing games?
 

nowhat

Member
So is it just me - I have a KS7000 (what KS8000 is known in Europe because reasons), and lately, HDMI-CEC has been somewhat erratic (it used to be flawless before). More often than not, when I turn on the PS4 the TV refuses to start itself too. Annoying, but workable. What annoys me even more is that if I switch to live TV with the PS4 on (or Chromecast too), the TV keeps jumping back to the HDMI input. I have to keep switching the input multiple times until the TV finally believes that yes, I do want to watch television this time around.

Anyone else experiencing this/any workarounds? My current firmware is 1201, haven't done any updates via USB.
 

philm87

Member
So is it just me - I have a KS7000 (what KS8000 is known in Europe because reasons), and lately, HDMI-CEC has been somewhat erratic (it used to be flawless before). More often than not, when I turn on the PS4 the TV refuses to start itself too. Annoying, but workable. What annoys me even more is that if I switch to live TV with the PS4 on (or Chromecast too), the TV keeps jumping back to the HDMI input. I have to keep switching the input multiple times until the TV finally believes that yes, I do want to watch television this time around.

Anyone else experiencing this/any workarounds? My current firmware is 1201, haven't done any updates via USB.

It's buggy as hell. I just turned the HDMI control off in the PS4 settings and turn it on manually.
 
HDMI-CEC has been somewhat erratic (it used to be flawless before).

It's always been buggy and unreliable for me and that's trying it with several TVs. If you had a simple setup with just a TV, a roku, and a soundbar or something it probably works fine but I've got a receiver with 9 devices plugged in plus the TV's built-in apps. CEC always does things I don't want it to do with the picture and/or sound output. I just turn CEC off now in all devices and switch things manually as it's far less frustrating to me.
 

chaosaeon

Member
Never have this problem. Try to find a good balance. I'm guessing this is more likely to happen if you have certain settings set far out such as having sharpness too high.

What is it that usually looks terrible when changing games?

I managed to find a technically incorrect but effective HDR+ for older or non HDR games that makes certain games (Black Flag in this case) look great, but then tried it on another game and that game looked washed out. Part of it is because I'm trying to correct things you don't really have to that are problems with how a game actually looks, not the accuracy of the TV's picture ( like faded nights or colors that look comically crayon like at times.
 

BLAUcopter

Gold Member
After a year of messing with HDR I have decided that LED/OLED/LCD are just not up to it yet.

ATM you can't have a full HDR experience without white clipping, to get white levels at 100% you need to have contrast set to 70, for non crushed blacks you need brightness at 55. Welcome ugly dim, washed out image.

You have to compromise between white clipping/luminescence. I cannot wait to see this tech improve over the years. Almost changed to an LG B7 until I realised they have similar problems with crushing blacks and blown out whites.

I have used these settings for the last few months, I have altered them but always went back. You will get a little white clipping and a minimal amount of black crush, but that's the price you pay for the HDR effect, it still looks fantastic.. but the white level sits about 90ish%.

Movie Setting
Backlight 20
Brightness 42
Contrast 100
Sharpness 13
Colour 50
Smart LED High
Dynamic Contrast Medium
Colour Tone Warm 1
Gamma -2

Also make sure you set the in game HDR settings properly. I find this gets bright highlights, deep blacks, great colour. Yes you will sacrifice a little white detail, but unless you are studying every line in every cloud with it off and on, you won't notice. But the slight percentage loss is well worth it.

Anyway, it doesn't really matter. You best calibration tools are your eyes, do what looks best for you. Don't be afraid to play about with the settings, learn what does what.
You game while not in "game mode"? Dat input lag tho?
 

chaosaeon

Member
You game while not in "game mode"? Dat input lag tho?

Unless I'm playing something online, the input lag doesn't bother me nearly as much as the slight flickering of the whole picture when panning the camera or moving around in game. In games like Horizon that subtle flickering on things like foliage and grass is a complete eyesore in Game mode.
 

philm87

Member
Unless I'm playing something online, the input lag doesn't bother me nearly as much as the slight flickering of the whole picture when panning the camera or moving around in game. In games like Horizon that subtle flickering on things like foliage and grass is a complete eyesore in Game mode.

If you get flickering from the grass in HZD with game mode then I think there's something up with your settings. Looks beautiful on my tv. Maybe sharpness too high?
 

Gavin Stevens

Formerly 'o'dium'
Game mode on the KS8000 here and no flicker at all...? That sounds like bad settings. The above sounds true, if your sharpness is used it will flicker on contrasted colours. I gamed by mistake on none game mode before and it was just awful...
 

laxu

Member
Game mode on the KS8000 here and no flicker at all...? That sounds like bad settings. The above sounds true, if your sharpness is used it will flicker on contrasted colours. I gamed by mistake on none game mode before and it was just awful...

Haven't noticed any flicker either. Gaming without using game mode is horrible IMO. You might not notice it but you will experience more missed shots and deaths due to lag in a game like Horizon.
 

Michie

Neo Member
I always thought that using standard mode with auto motion turned off is basically the same as using game mode. Also, isn't game mode supposed to look worse than the other modes?
 

laxu

Member
I always thought that using standard mode with auto motion turned off is basically the same as using game mode. Also, isn't game mode supposed to look worse than the other modes?

Game mode barely looks any different. It just disables some options so if you were using those then it might look different but personally I can't really tell much of a difference between that and other modes.

Standard mode with auto motion off is not the same at all, it will have higher input lag due to more processing being enabled.
 
i just wanna know if zoidberg runs DC on HDR games on or off

It depends on the game. Some games don’t require it (Gears 4, Halo 3, ReCore), but many of them do like ESO and Everybody’s Golf. I will go with DC on either Low or Medium depending on the need. It’s a necessary evil. I never use High DC as it just obliterates detail in the lightest and darkest parts of the screen.
 

carsar

Member
I can say something new about flickering and double-image artefacts.
KS8000 is TV with 120hz PWM starting at 13 backlight setting and lower. PWM and BFI use flickering to make motion resolution higher(lower impulse time means more clear picture). And this method requares content FPS =BFI/PWM frequency to avoid double-image juddering. Bad thing -we can't get 120hz content fps with KS8000 without interpolation. And we know -game mode has no interpolation settings. We only can use game mode with 60hz at 120PWM . Yes, we can use game mode with 14+ backlight to avoid double image. However it's not so simple. I've noticed DI artefacts even at 14 BL and I've tried to figure out how it is possible. Local dimming caused that problem. I've selected PC mode(only pc mode can turn off Local dimming complitely), turned off LD and double image arts have gone.

If you hate DI -you can:
1. use Movie mode with interpolation(about 60ms lag with 60 to 120hz interpolation)
Picture will be very clear at low BL setting. 1 BL can give 2160+ motion resolution.
2. use PC mode with 14 BL and LD turned off. You will get no flickering picture with motion blur.
3. Use BFI(unavailable in gaming or PC modes, shame to samsung) 60hz with 60fps content. Picture will be ultimativly sharp and without double image juddering.
However it flickers alot. Hard to play with 60hz flickering(

No way to get game mode without DI juddering until we can disable LD in this mode.
 
Interesting how some of you guys use DC, I never thought HDR in games was too dim with this TV, maybe because I usually play when it's dark. Maybe I'll give low a shot next time i play with some natural light
 

Mindman

Member
I can say something new about flickering and double-image artefacts.
KS8000 is TV with 120hz PWM starting at 13 backlight setting and lower. PWM and BFI use flickering to make motion resolution higher(lower impulse time means more clear picture). And this method requares content FPS =BFI/PWM frequency to avoid double-image juddering. Bad thing -we can't get 120hz content fps with KS8000 without interpolation. And we know -game mode has no interpolation settings. We only can use game mode with 60hz at 120PWM . Yes, we can use game mode with 14+ backlight to avoid double image. However it's not so simple. I've noticed DI artefacts even at 14 BL and I've tried to figure out how it is possible. Local dimming caused that problem. I've selected PC mode(only pc mode can turn off Local dimming complitely), turned off LD and double image arts have gone.

If you hate DI -you can:
1. use Movie mode with interpolation(about 60ms lag with 60 to 120hz interpolation)
Picture will be very clear at low BL setting. 1 BL can give 2160+ motion resolution.
2. use PC mode with 14 BL and LD turned off. You will get no flickering picture with motion blur.
3. Use BFI(unavailable in gaming or PC modes, shame to samsung) 60hz with 60fps content. Picture will be ultimativly sharp and without double image juddering.
However it flickers alot. Hard to play with 60hz flickering(

No way to get game mode without DI juddering until we can disable LD in this mode.

Or just sell it and get a TV without backlight flickering that also auto switches HDR settings in game mode like the Sony X900E
 

chaosaeon

Member
Interesting how some of you guys use DC, I never thought HDR in games was too dim with this TV, maybe because I usually play when it's dark. Maybe I'll give low a shot next time i play with some natural light

I've found it downright necessary for some games. Same with the sharpness which others were commenting on above. Yeah my sharpness was fairly high because (like dynamic contrast) without that some games look pretty off. Uncharted 4 with no dynamic contrast looks pretty washed out, and with no sharpness UC4 looks blurry because they never gave it a proper 4K or checkerboarding patch, just upped the res a little and never bothered to look back. That's my issue is that I'd like every game to look their best, but some require different things to get there so no one set of settings has managed to do that. I'm trying right now to find a good balance for all things.

I do think the flickering in game mode has something to do with framerate more than sharpness like the poster above mentioned though. Because in 60 fps content like UC4 Multiplayer, even with sharpness cranked all the way up, no flickers and the camera moves smoothly, but go to 30fps content and you get that subtle flickering where the camera looks to not be panning smoothly enough or something.
 

saltyramen

Member
It depends on the game. Some games don’t require it (Gears 4, Halo 3, ReCore), but many of them do like ESO and Everybody’s Golf. I will go with DC on either Low or Medium depending on the need. It’s a necessary evil. I never use High DC as it just obliterates detail in the lightest and darkest parts of the screen.
Okay bc damn. I just got Everybody’s Golf yesterday and it is dark as shit
 

BLAUcopter

Gold Member
DC sucks. Don't bother.
I think the problem with all of us right now is that we are so lost in the settings hole on this fucking overly complicated, change log free, compatibility retarded, overhyped piece of plastic that we don't know what looks or is supposed to look good anymore.
 
DC sucks. Don't bother.

Dc rules, you're wrong.

I was playing the witness on PS4 and it is the worst for HDR. It locks out the brightness slider, so the only way to get it looking properly is to drop the brightness to the 20s on the TV.

Game devs don't even know what they are doing.
 

AorUlfheoinn

Neo Member
DC is good in movies. The image is too washed and dark without it. Gamma on -1 and DC on medium so you can see all the details.

In games is another story. You don't need DC on PS4 if game mode is used.

Anyway, is all about user preferences in the end.
 

buenoblue

Member
I've pretty much given up on hdr on this tv. Everything is so washed out. Yeah you can adjust settings to make it look better but I just think the local dimming is just not enough to combat the high backlight requirements of hdr.

I still love the tv and in sdr gives a very good picture. I'm now saving for an oled.
 

philm87

Member
I've pretty much given up on hdr on this tv. Everything is so washed out. Yeah you can adjust settings to make it look better but I just think the local dimming is just not enough to combat the high backlight requirements of hdr.

I still love the tv and in sdr gives a very good picture. I'm now saving for an oled.

Don't give up. Looks awesome on mine. But I have a KS9000 which has the next level up of local dimming, not sure if that's the difference.

If things are washed out you just need to turn the colour setting up, or sort out colour space settings. If you can't get the right custom settings in colour space try using the Native setting.

Also check your brightness setting isn't too high, this will make everything look washed out if it's too high, and the colour settings won't combat it effectively. Try 40-42 ish.

Note that OLEDs can't get as bright as LED tv's yet.
 

laxu

Member
Is Tizen on this TV a complete bag of shit? I constantly have issues with many of the apps either having to be force quit by holding the back button on the remote and then restarted or sometimes having to reset the Smart Hub just because an app refuses to load no matter what. Anyone else having these problems?
 

saltyramen

Member
DC is good in movies. The image is too washed and dark without it. Gamma on -1 and DC on medium so you can see all the details.

In games is another story. You don't need DC on PS4 if game mode is used.

Anyway, is all about user preferences in the end.
Huh. I feel like DC isn’t needed in my 4K movies at all
 

Composer

Member
I have to say guys, ACOrigins on this TV with HDR On is stunning. The effects are maybe subtle at first, but the more you play, certain things start jumping out at you, and the life-like quality of the colors is something to behold. Its the only game that has made me appreciate HDR and it may be because they let you calibrate it from the settings unlike Horizon and GoW4
 
Is Tizen on this TV a complete bag of shit? I constantly have issues with many of the apps either having to be force quit by holding the back button on the remote and then restarted or sometimes having to reset the Smart Hub just because an app refuses to load no matter what. Anyone else having these problems?

Nope. I've had this set for a year and I only had ithe apps freeze once.
 
I have to say guys, ACOrigins on this TV with HDR On is stunning. The effects are maybe subtle at first, but the more you play, certain things start jumping out at you, and the life-like quality of the colors is something to behold. Its the only game that has made me appreciate HDR and it may be because they let you calibrate it from the settings unlike Horizon and GoW4
Thought it looked better without HDR. Only HER I've really liked was Cod WW2 because it's subtle.
 
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