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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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mkenyon

Banned
You flatter me. I'm a grown ass man, dog. I ain't fixin to have lights on my PC. /Cedric

Seriously though I don't want a case with glowing LED's I've been looking for something sleek and clean. Any suggestions?

Also any suggestions on the right timing for buying a 3gb 7950?
Check put the choices in the OP. Lian Li 7HX sounds like it'd be a good fit, but there are less expensive alternatives like the Shinobi or Ghost. The Define R4 is hard to beat as a silent, mature enclosure.
Corsair 650D

On the 7950, it's fairly cheap right now. Twin Frozr III cooling. Nothing to be ashamed of.
650D has a number of oddities and issues that prevent its inclusion in the OP. It is pretty though.
Back again with the mechanical keyboard madness.

So, originally I was going to go with the Rosewill Cherry Red Mx board, but that and the CM Quickfire Rapid seem to have some weird quality issues going on (USB cords and keys failing). What do people think about various other Cherry Red keyboards, specifically:

Corsair Vengeance K60/K90
Gigabyte Aivia Osmium
SteelSeries 6Gv2

Any others I should take a look at that are ~$100 or below?
The issues with the keys was limited to a single batch that was part of the original shipment. They have since been fixed.

With the Rosewill boards, it has to be a small issue that gets overblown. I haven't come across much other than some isolated complaints. That exists with every product.

The K60/K90 are not fully mechanical and ship with a firmware issue that had never been resolved.
 
I want to add a third gtx 670 to my setup but I have seen people mention how the scaling is horrible for the 670 and I have seen benchmarks that show different. My goal is to have a setup that's good enough till the Maxwell cards roll out but with games like Star Wars 1313 and Crysis 3 I just feel 2 670s isn't enough.

I also hate the news that the new Intel cpu will have a new socket type, wish it could be 1155 but I might wait till 2014 for a new cpu :(
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I want to add a third gtx 670 to my setup but I have seen people mention how the scaling is horrible for the 670 and I have seen benchmarks that show different. My goal is to have a setup that's good enough till the Maxwell cards roll out but with games like Star Wars 1313 and Crysis 3 I just feel 2 670s isn't enough.
Wait till we see benches then. And scaling is complete trash so it wouldn't really even do much.
There's always the Titan to look at.
 
The issues with the keys was limited to a single batch that was part of the original shipment. They have since been fixed.

With the Rosewill boards, it has to be a small issue that gets overblown. I haven't come across much other than some isolated complaints. That exists with every product.

The K60/K90 are not fully mechanical and ship with a firmware issue that had never been resolved.

Wow. I have no idea how you know this much. This is insane. Thanks. I already committed to the gigabyte and I don't think I regret it, especially when I remembered how much I fumbled around in the dark trying to press the right key when I can't see anything.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Best no-nonsense 10-key mechanical keyboard?

I love the simplicity, small size, and lack of branding on things like the Noppoo Choc or Happy Hacker - but I don't think I could do without my 10-key numpad.

I'd really like to stay in the $100 range. I've considered the blank-key DAS, but I've heard some mediocre reviews. That seems to leave the Filco. Which is the design I'm looking for but runs around $150. Best to just keep an eye out for a deal on that, I suppose? The SteelSeries is close - but I hate their logo and that stupid logo on some of the keys. Though I do love my SX mousepad ;p And I know it's pathetic, but I just can't will myself to buy "Rosewill" after giving my buddy endless shit after he bought one of their PSUs and was surprised it broke like 2 days later.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Best no-nonsense 10-key mechanical keyboard?

I love the simplicity, small size, and lack of branding on things like the Noppoo Choc or Happy Hacker - but I don't think I could do without my 10-key numpad.

I'd really like to stay in the $100 range. I've considered the blank-key DAS, but I've heard some mediocre reviews. That seems to leave the Filco. Which is the design I'm looking for but runs around $150. Best to just keep an eye out for a deal on that, I suppose? The SteelSeries is close - but I hate their logo and that stupid logo on some of the keys. Though I do love my SX mousepad ;p
OP :p

Rosewill definitely. They even use the same manufacturer that Filco does.
 

Ty4on

Member
Does prime 95 randomly find errors or does the stress add up? In other words does 6+6 or 3+3+3+3 hours of prime 95 equal 12 hours of constant testing?
Started a little over 1 and the computer went to sleep a little over 4, resumed it at 6 when I woke up and it's now 8. Did a simple 4Ghz "overclock" without changing any other settings than turning off the turbo.
 

Anton668

Member
Back again with the mechanical keyboard madness.

So, originally I was going to go with the Rosewill Cherry Red Mx board, but that and the CM Quickfire Rapid seem to have some weird quality issues going on (USB cords and keys failing). What do people think about various other Cherry Red keyboards, specifically:

Corsair Vengeance K60/K90
Gigabyte Aivia Osmium
SteelSeries 6Gv2

Any others I should take a look at that are ~$100 or below?

was looking at the Corsairs, but ending up not due to too many complaints about the software/firmware issues and the fact it wasnt a full mech keyboard.
I ended up with a Gigabyte and I love it. Although.... son bought one at the same time and his died within 3 weeks. so..... take that for what its worth.

I like my Osmium so much I am thinking of getting their mouse to go along with it
 

Sarcasm

Member
Thanks!

I have a couple more questions. What is a typical sized SSD needed for an OS drive and maybe 2-3 games that you want on it (interchangeable). I noticed that with some of my games even the 72K RPM is too slow (micro stutter) and its not the rest of my system.

I even get a score of like 59 in that windows thing due to my HDD.

If samsung = bad like it does say in OP but than I see its recommended still, that means the SSD is not owned by segate?

And a memory question if I want to buy more ram do I need to completely match my current two sticks? I know same speed but just asking.
 

Ty4on

Member
Thanks!

I have a couple more questions. What is a typical sized SSD needed for an OS drive and maybe 2-3 games that you want on it (interchangeable). I noticed that with some of my games even the 72K RPM is too slow (micro stutter) and its not the rest of my system.

I even get a score of like 59 in that windows thing due to my HDD.

If samsung = bad like it does say in OP but than I see its recommended still, that means the SSD is not owned by segate?

And a memory question if I want to buy more ram do I need to completely match my current two sticks? I know same speed but just asking.

Samsung 840 use TLC which doesn't last as long. The Samsung 830 and Samsung 840 Pro both use MLC.

Size is totally up to you. 64GB is enough for an OS drive with some games, but games are pretty big now so 120+ is well worth the extra cost. Remember that anything on an SSD will load faster and when they get fragmented performance doesn't suffer anywhere near as much.
 
About to purchase this build. Any last minute suggestions. This looked to me as most bang for buck at ~1000.

This is mostly for school work, some video editing, and very light gaming. Maybe Saints Row 3 @ 1080p with everything possible on.
Im unsure on the SSD choice, but it looked good, and I personally didnt see anything at $240 dollars that could topple the gfx card choice, but I could be wrong and if I am let me know :).

Skydrive link.
http://sdrv.ms/TqSZsj
Graphics card is a PNY 2gb GTX660Ti ~$240
Changing the powersupply to something gold plus rated.

So all in all about $1000.

Also bought a Dell 23inch 10 point touch screen. (silly, but eh I wanted it)

As a side note I did consider an intel machine, but this chip seemed pretty amazing for the price.
 

kharma45

Member
About to purchase this build. Any last minute suggestions. This looked to me as most bang for buck at ~1000.

Skydrive link.
http://sdrv.ms/TqSZsj
Graphics card is a PNY 2gb GTX660Ti ~$240
Changing the powersupply to something gold plus rated.

So all in all about $1000.

Also bought a Dell 23inch 10 point touch screen. (silly, but eh I wanted it)

As a side note I did consider an intel machine, but this chip seemed pretty amazing for the price.

Change your RAM to this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00592002W/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Get a Seasonic G Series or X Series if you want a Gold rated PSU, they usually work out cheaper than the Corsair's.
 
Change your RAM to this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00592002W/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Get a Seasonic G Series or X Series if you want a Gold rated PSU, they usually work out cheaper than the Corsair's.

Cool, I havent built a PC in 7 years so I didn't know what the hell Seasonic was. As for the Ram, is there a certain reasoning? Toms and a few others recommended the one I had, especially if I were to overclock in the future.
 

kharma45

Member
Cool, I havent built a PC in 7 years so I didn't know what the hell Seasonic was. As for the Ram, is there a certain reasoning? Toms and a few others recommended the one I had, especially if I were to overclock in the future.

Cheaper, lower profile and overclocks like a demon.

Seasonic are top dog for PSUs, the likes of Corsair and XFX use their designs in theirs.
 

Shizzlee

Member
I forgot about this thread. I completed my build from the previous thread earlier this week. Everything is fine and I'm really happy with it. Thanks.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
So I've been busy on the creative forums discussing the new Soundblaster Zx, I figured I'd post here too so anyone considering can at least take into accoutn my feedback:

41A5R2qbKSL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I've front loaded this with some useless background information, so jump to the bolded if you want a quick review

Let me start by saying I'm a long time creative supporter, from the earlier days of the Sound Blaster 16. The last card I bought prior to this new Zx was an Xfi Xtrememusic. A card that has worked wonderfully for a very long time, by far the oldest piece of hardware I currently have in my desktop. The only ONLY reason I decided to replace is was the driver support for Windows 8 has really been poor. I use Dolby Live and DTS Connect exclusively in my setup as I have a home theater down stairs and my office upstairs, both connected to the same computer (and many feet of HDMI cable). As of recently the XFI hasnt been retaining setting on reboot (a driver flaw with a weird fix of putting the computer into sleep mode first) and Dolby Live/DTS Connect sometime dont work, or worse will create a weird feedback loop sound that builds on it self and eventually crashes the computer.

Regardless the card had served me a long time and I dont feel creative owes the series any more true support, its been alive long enough.

So to the good part, the new Soundblaster Zx. My first impression..... I hate it.

Well lets start over, I didn't hate it when I removed it from the box, in fact I thought it was there best looking piece of hardware yet. It looks very well built.

Putting it in the system, starting it up, and installing the drivers all went perfectly fine (skipped the CD and just downloaded the newest strait from the site.)

Once everything was completed I noticed How I liked everything is now installed together, no need for separate installers (like the dolby live installer). Thats all great

So I was excited to fire this girl up and get a listen. I set all the settings how I figured would sound best initially, turned on DTS Connected, set the SBX pro surround setting on, turned crystallization on just a bit and the result...

Terrible.



I was shocked, I played several different music tracks I know by heart, played several movies. All of them came off far to warm, far to "Echo-y" almost. As if the SBX was adding some sort of light reverb to every track.


I turned of SBX and bam, everything was back to sounding fine, except now I've lost all upmixing to 5.1 ability, all music/stereo will now only be played through the mains, which I dont want (If thats all I wanted, as I'm using an all digital connection, I would just switch to onboard). Now I could just use my reciever to upmix for me, but that means changing settings everytime I want to jump from music to true discreet surround sources. Not an option, as why should it be, the Xfi didnt require that, set CSMM to stereo surround and all stereo sources were upmixed, and real 5.1 sources were left alone.

So I figure, no problem, I'll just find the CSMM Stereo surround setting thats been on all Soundblasters sense the audigy.... wait where are the other options for this card????

Seriously, and this is the main problem I'm having with this card, WHY are there no other surround options then just the SBX? The SBX surround is instantly bad in terms of telling you what its actually doing. Is it strait upmixing to the rears/duplicating to the back, is it pulling a Pro Logic effect? Nothing is described or told to the user about what its doing other than a graphic at the top that shows speakers fading in it out. Along with the reverb effect its adding I find this completely useless.

But where are the other options? Why do we have no choice in how stereo sounds are upmixed? Why do we not have the simple things we had with the old xfi's? like choosing between Stereo expand or Stereo Surround? Theres a DTS Neo setting, but ticking it has resulted in no effect (another driver issue perhaps?) regardless DTS Neo upmixing has never sounded good to me. :confused:

This is a $150 card in a day in age when most users feel happy about there onboard solutions. That means its a premium piece of hardware that should be given the users premium options, stuff that makes there upgrade worth it.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want to keep this card and hope that its just early drivers that are the issue here. Perhaps in the coming months we will see improvements and some of the old options return? Maybe the reverb/overly warm sound im hearing is just a driver issue that can be corrected? I dont know, I'm hopping. I have 20 more days to keep her and test it out. Here's hopping.

But this is my summary of this card: for the price its missing key features and driver level options that should be in it. I dont feel I've "upgraded" from my xfi at all, in fact I feel I've downgraded as Stereo surround was my favorite sounding setting as My home theater uses a full array of matched speakers that sound great together.

So anyone here considering a Z, I suggest holding off until the drivers either mature, or consider something else (though your needs maybe different then mine and it might work perfectly for you)

Pros:

Dolby Live/DTS Connect work flawlessly
Headphone software switch
Great output sound (in regards to uniformity, no static, nice upper limit)

Cons:

Lack of traditional surround upmixing options
Sofware headphoen switch does NOT disable/mute the Dolby Live/DTS Connect output, making it useless if you use those.
SBX is junk but you have no other options available for upmixing.
 
Hey guys. I built a new PC when sandybridge first came out and picked up 8gb of ram. I am now looking to double that but am having issues finding exactly the same ram as what I currently have for a reasonable price. Now I have found a newer version that has the exact same specs but has a voltage of 1.5v compared to my 1.65v. Would this be an issue if I were to combine the two together? Could I simply run a lower voltage on my current ram to match the new?

Current ram - Corsair Vengeance CMP8GX3M2A1600C9
Potential ram - Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
 
Sorry for the repost but I didn't get any replies. Thoughts on this?

This is my current rig I built about 2.5 years ago. I'm thinking up upgrading the graphics card to a 6870 or 7850, like the OP recommends on the lower builds.

Is this the best way to upgrade? Will I need a new power supply too?

PCPartPicker part list / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD Athlon II X4 645 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus M4A87TD/USB3 ATX AM3 Motherboard
Memory: Mushkin Essentials 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Video Card: MSI Radeon HD 5670 1GB Video Card
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Green 380W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer
1TB HDD
 

abunai

Member
Is 1.5v better then? Could you give me a little more information?

Lower voltage ram is superior due to the fact the DIMMs are able to run at the same settings/speed/latencies as higher voltage-rated memory, but at lower voltages. This consistency in power while reducing power requirements often comes with die shrinks (the samsung 1.35V ram everyone loves on here is 32nm as opposed to most other DDR3 ram which is 50nm+). This helps a lot with overclocking potential and general system stability/idle power draw/temperatures etc.

RAM is not going to provide a huge speed boost (outside of scenarios where you don't have enough of it), but it's still nice. Your pc is as fast as the slowest component, so every little bit helps.
 

hwalker84

Member
Well Newegg is trying to fuck me on my second Motherboard return. The second one which was defective out of the box they say I did it. Absolute bullshit. The only thing I did was open the box, take a look at it, put it back in and call them. It wasn't even worth my time.
 
Lower voltage ram is superior due to the fact the DIMMs are able to run at the same settings/speed/latencies as higher voltage-rated memory, but at lower voltages. This consistency in power while reducing power requirements often comes with die shrinks (the samsung 1.35V ram everyone loves on here is 32nm as opposed to most other DDR3 ram which is 50nm+). This helps a lot with overclocking potential and general system stability/idle power draw/temperatures etc.

RAM is not going to provide a huge speed boost (outside of scenarios where you don't have enough of it), but it's still nice. Your pc is as fast as the slowest component, so every little bit helps.

Thanks very much for that explanation. I shall look at changing my ram out completely then.
 

li bur

Member
I plan to get a new CPU, GPU, Motherboard in the next month. This thread is such a help.

I currently have a 550 watt power supply and I don't plan to get a crazy peripherals since I don't have the budget. Would that power supply be sufficient?

Oh is there any specific reason why the OP is not recommending AMD CPU? I'm quite interested to get AMD CPU with their price point.
 

kharma45

Member
I plan to get a new CPU, GPU, Motherboard in the next month. This thread is such a help.

I currently have a 550 watt power supply and I don't plan to get a crazy peripherals since I don't have the budget. Would that power supply be sufficient?

Oh is there any specific reason why the OP is not recommending AMD CPU? I'm quite interested to get AMD CPU with their price point.

Depends on what the PSU is and the age of it.

Intel is typically the better all round CPU due to a lot strong single threaded performance, although the 8350 from AMD isn't bad and I've a growing soft spot for the FX 6300 as an alternative to the i3 3220, but I'm probably alone in that here.
 

mkenyon

Banned
About to purchase this build. Any last minute suggestions. This looked to me as most bang for buck at ~1000.

This is mostly for school work, some video editing, and very light gaming. Maybe Saints Row 3 @ 1080p with everything possible on.
Im unsure on the SSD choice, but it looked good, and I personally didnt see anything at $240 dollars that could topple the gfx card choice, but I could be wrong and if I am let me know :).

Skydrive link.
http://sdrv.ms/TqSZsj
Graphics card is a PNY 2gb GTX660Ti ~$240
Changing the powersupply to something gold plus rated.

So all in all about $1000.

Also bought a Dell 23inch 10 point touch screen. (silly, but eh I wanted it)

As a side note I did consider an intel machine, but this chip seemed pretty amazing for the price.
Too late to talk you out of this?
Depends on what the PSU is and the age of it.

Intel is typically the better all round CPU due to a lot strong single threaded performance, although the 8350 from AMD isn't bad and I've a growing soft spot for the FX 6300 as an alternative to the i3 3220, but I'm probably alone in that here.
You are a reasonable person, so I'm curious as to why?
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
While we're on the subject of the 8350, was that one video ever amended or the author ever talk on it again? I'd like to see some article or write up confirm or deny his claims.
 

kharma45

Member
While we're on the subject of the 8350, was that one video ever amended or the author ever talk on it again? I'd like to see some article or write up confirm or deny his claims.

Na he's never followed it up like he said he would.

You are a reasonable person, so I'm curious as to why?

I know you can only trust benchmarks so far but for the same money the 6300 competes well enough (bar power use) with the 3220

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/699?vs=677

and it performs well in online multi


and you can of course OC it, but power consumption again rockets up.
 

EMT0

Banned
I'm having some trouble with my PC and I figured this is the best place to here some ideas on what could be wrong. I'm fairly convinced that the problem has to do with my PSU, but feedback would help a lot.


The problem is that I turned my PC on several weeks back and I got an error message saying that my mobo had detected power surges and that it wasn't going to boot directly so as to protect the rest of my PC. Fair enough, I turn it off, look inside and see if anything's up, everything checks out, and turn it back on.

I turn it on, and the BIOS loads fine, but when my PC goes to load Windows, I get an error message saying that Windows can't be booted. I run System Repair several times, test the RAM using the inbuilt Windows utility, and defrag the hard drive, and eventually manage to get it to boot Windows after several hours of frustration. I think everything's fine....but it's not. I was getting random blue screens, sometimes for apparently no reason. I retest my RAM, do a HDD sweep, run some more system repair, test my GPU to see if it was the issue, etc.

By the time I stopped getting blue screens(haven't had one in two weeks), I had gone through a whole bunch of possible fixes, but I managed to confirm that everything was fine, except for the mobo and the PSU, which I didn't get around to testing.

Fastforward to yesterday, I had replaced my old GPU with a GTX 670 from MSI and it ran perfectly. I was playing Crysis and Battlefield 3 at 60(with a few dips into the 40s at very graphically intensive moments, which is to be expected?), and all was well in my little world, thinking I had fixed my PC issues, and that I could get back to the games. But then my PC shut down.

No shut down screen, no blue screen, no freezing, no nothing. It was literally as though someone pulled the power cable from the PC. A second after the PC lost power, the PC would restart, as though the power had all of a sudden started flowing again. I suspect that the issue is the PSU, because I can't think of any other hardware issues that would cause that. The only times that it's happened, occurred while I was playing a graphically intensive game where my GPU would be under the most stress and pulling the most power. The final reason I suspect the issue has to do with my PSU is because of the four times that I've had that happen, two of them had my PC booting up the same 'Power surges detected' screen.


PCGaf, what do you think? And if it is what I think it is, what should I get to replace my PSU? Tell me what to buy, GAF.


Here are my PC specs, if that helps:

CPU - Intel(R) Core™ i7-3770K 3.50 GHz 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified) (But not OC'ed)
GPU - MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 670 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
RAM - 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/1600MHz Dual Channel Memory (Corsair XMS with Heat Spreader)
Mobo - ASUS P8Z77-V LX Intel Z77 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ IRST, Lucid Virtu MVP, 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, 2x PCIe x16 (1 Gen3, 1 Gen2), 2x PCIe x1 & 3 PCI (Extreme OC Certified)
HDD - Seagate 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD

I bought my PC from CyberpowerPC(I was new to all this back in June), and this is what they list my PSU to be:

POWERSUPPLY: 700 Watts - Standard Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
 
Thanks!

I have a couple more questions. What is a typical sized SSD needed for an OS drive and maybe 2-3 games that you want on it (interchangeable). I noticed that with some of my games even the 72K RPM is too slow (micro stutter) and its not the rest of my system.

I even get a score of like 59 in that windows thing due to my HDD.

If samsung = bad like it does say in OP but than I see its recommended still, that means the SSD is not owned by segate?

And a memory question if I want to buy more ram do I need to completely match my current two sticks? I know same speed but just asking.

Answers for each:

64gb is alright but i think the sweet spot is 128gb right now (especially for the crazy $70-80 deals that went on last year). You can have the OS, programs and some games plus you can use Steam mover tool to transfer certain steam games when you desire. Hopefully the 256s get cheap enough.

it should bump the score up but that Windows experience thing is fucking bunk and relegated to some epeen bullshit imo.

Yea Samsung dropped out of the HDD sector and sold it to Seagate but the SSD side is all Samsung.

its generally recommended to completely match them and its not hard just buy another batch of the one you bought before. (i.e bought a 8gb venegenance aka 2X4gb sticks, just get another one so you will have 4x4gb sticks, assuming your motherboard has enough slots)
 

kharma45

Member
I'm having some trouble with my PC and I figured this is the best place to here some ideas on what could be wrong. I'm fairly convinced that the problem has to do with my PSU, but feedback would help a lot.


The problem is that I turned my PC on several weeks back and I got an error message saying that my mobo had detected power surges and that it wasn't going to boot directly so as to protect the rest of my PC. Fair enough, I turn it off, look inside and see if anything's up, everything checks out, and turn it back on.

I turn it on, and the BIOS loads fine, but when my PC goes to load Windows, I get an error message saying that Windows can't be booted. I run System Repair several times, test the RAM using the inbuilt Windows utility, and defrag the hard drive, and eventually manage to get it to boot Windows after several hours of frustration. I think everything's fine....but it's not. I was getting random blue screens, sometimes for apparently no reason. I retest my RAM, do a HDD sweep, run some more system repair, test my GPU to see if it was the issue, etc.

By the time I stopped getting blue screens(haven't had one in two weeks), I had gone through a whole bunch of possible fixes, but I managed to confirm that everything was fine, except for the mobo and the PSU, which I didn't get around to testing.

Fastforward to yesterday, I had replaced my old GPU with a GTX 670 from MSI and it ran perfectly. I was playing Crysis and Battlefield 3 at 60(with a few dips into the 40s at very graphically intensive moments, which is to be expected?), and all was well in my little world, thinking I had fixed my PC issues, and that I could get back to the games. But then my PC shut down.

No shut down screen, no blue screen, no freezing, no nothing. It was literally as though someone pulled the power cable from the PC. A second after the PC lost power, the PC would restart, as though the power had all of a sudden started flowing again. I suspect that the issue is the PSU, because I can't think of any other hardware issues that would cause that. The only times that it's happened, occurred while I was playing a graphically intensive game where my GPU would be under the most stress and pulling the most power. The final reason I suspect the issue has to do with my PSU is because of the four times that I've had that happen, two of them had my PC booting up the same 'Power surges detected' screen.


PCGaf, what do you think? And if it is what I think it is, what should I get to replace my PSU? Tell me what to buy, GAF.


Here are my PC specs, if that helps:

CPU - Intel(R) Core™ i7-3770K 3.50 GHz 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified) (But not OC'ed)
GPU - MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 670 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
RAM - 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/1600MHz Dual Channel Memory (Corsair XMS with Heat Spreader)
Mobo - ASUS P8Z77-V LX Intel Z77 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ IRST, Lucid Virtu MVP, 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, 2x PCIe x16 (1 Gen3, 1 Gen2), 2x PCIe x1 & 3 PCI (Extreme OC Certified)
HDD - Seagate 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD

I bought my PC from CyberpowerPC(I was new to all this back in June), and this is what they list my PSU to be:

POWERSUPPLY: 700 Watts - Standard Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready

I'd bet it's the PSU too, looks like generic junk from your description. Can you photograph it or get us more details?
 

DietRob

i've been begging for over 5 years.
I went ahead and exchanged the Samsung 840 series SSD for a Crucial M4 128gb.

Thanks for the heads up on that.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
I went ahead and exchanged the Samsung 840 series SSD for a Crucial M4 128gb.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

make sure you upgrade the firmware on that m4 right away. The one I got from amazon would not detect in the bios after every other reboot because of a firmware issue they have. Newer firmware has fixed it.
 

cazar

Neo Member
PC Gaf, I have a question

I installed my new PC and everything is running fine, but I forgot to add the plastic washers that came with the Thermalright silver arrow, so should i disassemble the cooler and add them?
 

MajorPain

Member
So I've been busy on the creative forums discussing the new Soundblaster Zx, I figured I'd post here too so anyone considering can at least take into accoutn my feedback:

. . .

Pros:

Dolby Live/DTS Connect work flawlessly
Headphone software switch
Great output sound (in regards to uniformity, no static, nice upper limit)

Cons:

Lack of traditional surround upmixing options
Sofware headphoen switch does NOT disable/mute the Dolby Live/DTS Connect output, making it useless if you use those.
SBX is junk but you have no other options available for upmixing.

Nice review! I have been thinking about buying this card but will hold off since I already have an xfi card.
 
Thoughts on this build so far?

Cooler Master HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 ATX Computer Case Black
or
Bitfenix Raider Steel Black $40 cheaper but less access\mobility

Intel Core i5 3570K Unlocked Quad Core Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Ivy Bridge 6MB Retail
MSI Z77 Mpower ATX LGA1155 Z77 DDR3 3PCI-E16 4PCI-E1 SATA3 DVI HDMI VGA SLI USB3.0 Motherboard

Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB
Western Digital Green 2TB SATA3 6GB/S Intellipower 64MB Cache


Up in the air about the PS, would like something modular around $70
My non-modular pick Corsair Gaming Series CMPSU-700G GS700


ASUS DRW-24B1ST 24X SATA DVD Writer

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

Going to hold off on a Videocard and pop in my current 6950 ... for now

Currently sitting at $850, would like to keep it around $1000 max
 

EMT0

Banned
I'd bet it's the PSU too, looks like generic junk from your description. Can you photograph it or get us more details?

Here are the pictures; there's no brand, no manufacturer, just stickers saying that it checked out on the tests they ran on it before selling it to me:

WP_000018.jpg


WP_000021.jpg


WP_000022.jpg


WP_000017.jpg


WP_000023.jpg


EDIT: Sorry for the odd pictures, I'm not used to taking photos on my phone.
 
I currently have a 2gb 6950 with unlocked shaders.

Should I spend $150 buying someone's used 6950 and crossfire (note: my P8P67 mobo only does 2 x 8x PCIE or 1 x 16X) or spend $300ish on a 7950/7970?

i5-2500k at 4.4ghz and 8gb ram.
 

kharma45

Member
Here are the pictures; there's no brand, no manufacturer, just stickers saying that it checked out on the tests they ran on it before selling it to me:

WP_000018.jpg


WP_000021.jpg


WP_000022.jpg


WP_000017.jpg


WP_000023.jpg


EDIT: Sorry for the odd pictures, I'm not used to taking photos on my phone.

get some quotes around those images man :p No info like this on it?


Yeah looks like generic junk and I'd say it's your problem, just hope it hasn't damaged your PC.

I currently have a 2gb 6950 with unlocked shaders.

Should I spend $150 buying someone's used 6950 and crossfire (note: my P8P67 mobo only does 2 x 8x PCIE or 1 x 16X) or spend $300ish on a 7950/7970?

i5-2500k at 4.4ghz and 8gb ram.

I'd sell your 6950 and just buy a new card rather than bothering with Crossfire.
 
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