Deadly Cyclone
Pride of Iowa State
You guys have WebEx or anything similar? You can get some decent logitech table-top conference cams that are USB for pretty cheap too, we have this one:
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/conferencecam-bcc950
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
You guys have WebEx or anything similar? You can get some decent logitech table-top conference cams that are USB for pretty cheap too, we have this one:
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/conferencecam-bcc950
PastorOfMuppets
Banned
Yes, I physically have the disks.
The reason I asked is that I recently came upon a large cache of old PC games - like 80's and early 90's era, complete in box with all the manuals, doodads and all that fancy jazz. I'd like to test if the disks are still working. I'd figure with the 3.5 inch floppies I could easily do it with a USB floppy drive but I couldn't find one that was compatible with Windows 10 there's quite a bit of 5.25 inch floppies as well.
Spladam
Member
The 3.5s should not be that big an issue, here is a list of drives and here is one compatible with windows 10 for real cheap. As far as the 5.25's go, you will need a late model 5.25 disk drive and that interface I liked above.
I don't know what games that you have on the 5.25s, but chances are you can download them from the internet, I have most of my 5.25 games on CD now, found every one of them on the net. If you want to PM me a list of them I can show you were to find them, you will need Dosbox to run them (I'm assuming they are from an old dos machine) and you'll probably want to get a front end for Dosbox, check out D-Fend. This way you have an already copied version of the game, and still have the manuals and original boxes. This goes for almost all games, also, Steam and GOG have most of the old DOS games in collections, already set up for dosbox and launched from a single exe.
TheContact
Member
2.4 will definitely get you more range than 5, albeit with less speeds. You could try moving the router as well
PastorOfMuppets
Banned
Oh for sure, I know most if not all of these games could be gotten from the internet. I was just curious if they worked for historical and archival purposes. Just as a for instance, I found two Infocom text adventures (Planetfall and Deadline) in their original folio-style packaging with all the fancy plastic stuff. They're just text adventures so I'm sure I could play them if I wanted to on an internet site somewhere but there's something kinda cool about having the originals you know? It's kind of like owning a rare vinyl copy of an album or a First Edition of a book. A lot of them the games are duplicates too so I could eBay them as well. I don't NEED three copies of King's Quest I but I'd sell the two that worked and keep the busted one just for display purposes.
Spladam
Member
This is pretty cool, especially the Infocom text adventures in the original packaging, I don't know but it sounds like it would be worth some money or worth going through the trouble of preserving. Many 5.25" floppies from the early eighties will not work due to age, they are all technically past their half lives, but it's really cool you still have them.
If you don't mind me asking, how do you come upon this cache of nostalgia? Three boxed copies of the original King's Quest? That's pretty freaking cool. Would there happen to be a boxed copy of Quest For Glory or Hero's Quest. If you have a box with the original Hero's Quest title on it, I would love to purchase that from you.
Hi everyone,
I just wanted to know if anyone knows what keyboard is this. I saw it at a shop and even the shop attendants couldn't tell me about it. They only told me that their IT supplier, HP, provided them with all equipment. The keyboard feels great to type on and is rechargeable.
I've searched all throughout the web both on HP site and on other vendors' but can't get anything.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I just wanted to know if anyone knows what keyboard is this. I saw it at a shop and even the shop attendants couldn't tell me about it. They only told me that their IT supplier, HP, provided them with all equipment. The keyboard feels great to type on and is rechargeable.
I've searched all throughout the web both on HP site and on other vendors' but can't get anything.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
VanquishUK
Member
So my on-board Bluetooth adapter just completely stopped working out of nowhere. Nothing I do fixes it. Doesn't appear in the Device Manager despite reinstalling the driver multiple times (also it's not hidden either, just gone) I've even tried installing a couple of Linux distros and those didn't detect it either. Reinstalled Windows 10 and still no luck. Maximus VIII Formula is my motherboard with the Bluetooth.
It's like it just broke...
EDIT: Fixed it by doing.....something. Just started working again.
It's like it just broke...
EDIT: Fixed it by doing.....something. Just started working again.
Yeah these are the default keyboards that get sent with HP workstations, we have stacks at my office. Not sure if you can get them separately.
Kind of like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BQ8S45M/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Northeastmonk
Gold Member
That sounds almost virus related or something's gone corrupt. Which antivirus do you use? Do you use malwarebytes?
You could always wipe it and redo the image on the thing.
I wonder if your CPU or your mobo is going bad. My first gen i7 did that months before it blew a few capacitors. It would literally kick into Windows 10 setup on boot.
Do you have a second computer? You could grab the stuff you want and then nuke the HDD. Reinstall Windows and start from scratch.
Do your event logs say anything?
Cannon Goose
Member
I'm having some trouble with a USB microphone.
I've got an Audio-Technica AT2020USB+ mic and it just randomly won't connect to my PC. It's just a single USB cable that powers it and I have that going into the back of my computer. Half the time I'll turn on my PC and the mic won't be in the list of recording devices until I unplug it and plug it back in.
It never disconnects by itself when it's working, it only seems to happen randomly at boot.
I've got an Audio-Technica AT2020USB+ mic and it just randomly won't connect to my PC. It's just a single USB cable that powers it and I have that going into the back of my computer. Half the time I'll turn on my PC and the mic won't be in the list of recording devices until I unplug it and plug it back in.
It never disconnects by itself when it's working, it only seems to happen randomly at boot.
Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated!
I got my mother a Moto G4 Play to replace her older wifi-only phone that was having issues due to its low onboard memory and her prodigious social media use. However, I'm having issues removing the pre-installed SIM card so that the activation nags will be more manageable. All the documentation indicates it should just be able to be slid out, but I'm having absolutely no luck removing it. Does anyone have any tricks for removing tightly slotted SIMs?
Commanche Raisin Toast
Member
Did you try pushing it inward to see if it's one of those click release type of slots like the Vita game card slot, or SD slots on laptops?
Yes, unfortunately it wasn't. I did get it out in the end, by using a very large and sharp knife to push it out with the tip of the blade. I've no intent of ever activating the thing so the loss of the SIM if I had pushed too hard wasn't an issue.
Systolique
Member
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread to post in :
I have this GPU "Sapphire Radeon RX 460 OC (UEFI), 2 Go", and correct me if I'm wrong but "OC" means that it is meant to be overclocked ?
What would I have to modify to do this?
Is it really profitable?
And what are the risks of doing so, are they high?
Thanks for your time !
I have this GPU "Sapphire Radeon RX 460 OC (UEFI), 2 Go", and correct me if I'm wrong but "OC" means that it is meant to be overclocked ?
What would I have to modify to do this?
Is it really profitable?
And what are the risks of doing so, are they high?
Thanks for your time !
Commanche Raisin Toast
Member
Typically it means it's overclocked fresh out of the box. All they do is clock their part higher than whatever the standard default part would be from AMD. So if a hypothetical graphics card AMD 9000x is announced by AMD as a 900mhz chip and you buy a Sapphire 9000x OC you can look on the box and see that it's probably running a little faster than 900mhz. (These are made up figures)
It's safer to get an OC model of a card than to buy a standard one and overclock it yourself because Sapphire will honor your warranty if your OC card goes bad, as opposed to the standard card you tried to overclock and fried.
Systolique
Member
So I shouldn't try to overclock it on top of what the base model offers then?
Commanche Raisin Toast
Member
Sure if you want. Some of them boast the ability to overclock it further and offer you tools you can download to do it, like MSI Afterburner, but I'm not too familiar with the ins and outs of overclocking so others could or probably answer better.
Maybe check the "I need a new pc" thread?
Systolique
Member
Alright, thanks !
Yung Dolphin
Banned
Why does the color on my 2016 4k ips led LG tv look washed out and dull compared to my 2010 720p samsung plasma? Most notably the yellows, they look mustard colored
TimHortons
Member
Usually due to the brightness being too high. Try mid 50s brightness.
Yung Dolphin
Banned
Ive tried that tho, along with many settings. The colors just dont "pop" like my plasma. Can that just be chalked up to LED vs Plasma or is there something else i can do?
Hope this might be the place to ask this. I've got an external HDD for Time Machine back-ups hooked up to my Macbook. Thing is, it seems to be updating all the time, maybe even hourly. Can I somehow change these settings? I'm fine with TM updating once every day, if possible. I googled around a bit but found mostly really old answers that don't seem to apply to the current version of TM anymore.
I'm not familiar with the possibilities of scripting TM, if it's possible you might be able to set a script that mounts, writes and unmounts it daily. Unmounted harddrives should spin down.
I myself have a question. i recently came across an old HP Procurve managed enterprise switch, after flashing it to a recent firmware i found out it had 802.1p traffic shaping capability on board which could prove extremely useful. I have already made contexts for telnet and ssh and made a similar context for least concern services like BT.
How often do applications like BT, SMTP and skype tag their own traffic with DSCP headers?
I'm asking this because my server can gobble up a lot of bandwidth and i would still like to be able to use skype in the meantime.
Ventilaator
Banned
Using a dualshock 4 with my laptop, whenever the controller is on, my wifi drops to being unusably slow.
Like, sure, close your torrents when playing a game, but sometimes the game I want to play is multiplayer and this makes it impossible.
Googled this problem:
1) Just turn your 2.4ghz router setting to 5ghz! --- can't, 2.4 seems to be the only option
2) Just switch your wifi channel from your router settings ---- tried many of them, nothing changed. Wifi speed just drops if the controller is on.
Like, sure, close your torrents when playing a game, but sometimes the game I want to play is multiplayer and this makes it impossible.
Googled this problem:
1) Just turn your 2.4ghz router setting to 5ghz! --- can't, 2.4 seems to be the only option
2) Just switch your wifi channel from your router settings ---- tried many of them, nothing changed. Wifi speed just drops if the controller is on.
Version 3.0
Member
Both Chrome and Firefox on my work PC have suddenly started refusing to go to almost any website...including google. Chrome says "Your connection is not private" and Firefox says "not secure".
What I've found online about these messages doesn't seem to apply. Like "your PC's clock is probably wrong".
What I've found online about these messages doesn't seem to apply. Like "your PC's clock is probably wrong".
This means the SSL cert is bogus or expired, are you on a hotspot when this happens? because it might mean someone might be eavesdropping by using counterfeit certificates.
the clock argument might be right, certificate expiry dates are counterchecked against the system's clock.
Are you on linux? some distros don't ship with root CA's installed.
Version 3.0
Member
No, I'm on a corporate hardwired network, on Windows 7. Hmm...a tech remoted into my PC yesterday just before this started. I wonder if something went haywire over that connection. I hate to open a ticket, I feel like they'd just say "don't use Chrome, use IE". IE is still working, if you can ever call its performance that.
Ventilaator
Banned
1) Laptop is ASUS K501UX, according to the sticker at the bottom of the laptop. And the box my internet comes from is an INTENO DG200A
2) Went to speedtest.net and ran it twice
Result 1:
Result 2:
The only difference was that the controller was switched on for the second one
Now that *is* strange, both use windows' certificate manager. i also know that IE 11 and edge don't respect HSTS tokens and other ways to prevent downgrade attacks, so if the site you visit works just fine without the 'HTTPS' then we're still on a good lead.
Try visiting the affected site while beginning the address with https:// instead of http://
1) Laptop is ASUS K501UX, according to the sticker at the bottom of the laptop. And the box my internet comes from is an INTENO DG200A
2) Went to speedtest.net and ran it twice
Result 1:
Result 2:
The only difference was that the controller was switched on for the second one
No i mean how is the 2.4ghz signal's gain in negative dbm.
The wifi module's driver gui should be able to tell if you use an intel Chief River or later.
otherwise use inSSIDer 3.*.* which is sadly the only free version that's not trailware to measure it. you'll want to know if the controller is actually responsible for lowering the signal strength below acceptable threshold (which lies between minus 67-70 dbm before packetloss becomes unacceptable).
Version 3.0
Member
I actually can't get it to show as http. It just pops in the 's' on its own, then puts a big red slash through the whole string and prefaces it with "not secure". This is for any site. For example, I type "http://www.wikipedia.org" and it changes it to " ! Not secure | https://www.wikepedia.org", with the underlined having a red diagonal strikeout through it.
If the machine is company-issue then there's little you can do as managing certificates is an admin privileged action l.
If it's yours then it might be missing root CAs, a caching proxy/squid in the network , or an interception gateway that injects their own certificate. That's all I can surmise without a screenshot of chromes security tab.
Ventilaator
Banned
It hovered between 35-50 and having the controller on or off didn't seem to affect it at all.
TheContact
Member
You could try just removing ur page file. It's not really necessary if you have enough ram anyway
Just looking to get a quick thought on a potential PSU issue.
A while back there was a possible power surge that might have damaged my PSU? I had a gtx1080 connected to it and then it started crashing shortly after boot every time, can't remember what the bsod error code was right now. I swapped my 970 into it and it works fine now. The 1080 works fine in my other computer. Is it possible for a power surge to damage a PSU and reduce it's capacity but otherwise work?
original PSU capacity is 550w, the other computer has a 500w one
edit: the error was Video_Scheduler_Internal_Error
A while back there was a possible power surge that might have damaged my PSU? I had a gtx1080 connected to it and then it started crashing shortly after boot every time, can't remember what the bsod error code was right now. I swapped my 970 into it and it works fine now. The 1080 works fine in my other computer. Is it possible for a power surge to damage a PSU and reduce it's capacity but otherwise work?
original PSU capacity is 550w, the other computer has a 500w one
edit: the error was Video_Scheduler_Internal_Error
Interesting result, then i'm afraid i can't help as 30-50 are excellent gains.
Herr Schwarz
Banned
Every time I go into a game and it's set to 4k resolution on my primary monitor, the video being played on VLC on my second 1080p monitor is frozen until I alt tab or exit out of my primary monitor.
It's a downscaled game, so when I exit the program it reverts back to 1080p on my primary monitor.
Sometimes the video will go back to normal when the current video ends and it moves onto another video (when I'm gaming in 4k).
Second problem: Any video regardless of player, will freeze up after a while, unless I move the mouse or something, to fix this I always have to have the resource monitor on.
It's a downscaled game, so when I exit the program it reverts back to 1080p on my primary monitor.
Sometimes the video will go back to normal when the current video ends and it moves onto another video (when I'm gaming in 4k).
Second problem: Any video regardless of player, will freeze up after a while, unless I move the mouse or something, to fix this I always have to have the resource monitor on.
KraftyKrankins
Member
Does anyone here has any experience with overheating laptops, specifically replacing the thermal paste? I bought a HP Zbook Studio G3 ( http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-studio-g3-mobile-workstation-(energy-star) ) and the CPU temps are a little insane. Right now, with Chrome open and one YouTube video streaming the temps hover between 40-50c(100-120f) and whenever I'm gaming they reach 75-90c(165-200f) and I'm only playing The Witness and Torment: Tides of Numenera mind you. Now, the laptop has a Quadro M1000m, and I know that they aren't meant for gaming but there's no way those temps are normal(they go up a lot while using Photoshop and Premiere too). I cleaned up the fans, undervolted it, always keep it horizontal with a lot of space for airflow underneath and to the side but there's barely any difference. The only thing that helped was throttling it through Windows Power options(setting it at 60% decreased the max temps by 25-30% but obviously that's far from an ideal solution. Could it be a shitty thermal paste? I wanna change it to find out but I've never had to remove heatpipes from a laptop. Anyone here done it before? I'm afraid I'll break something.
ArtistDude88
Member
Asked elsewhere.
Luckily HP/HPE have a lot of maintenence documents from the days where they were together and didn't consider information to be an enterprise-exclusive item.
My only suggestion would be you read this (p45) and learn it by heart.
Zoidberg Jesus
Member
I posted here before about my desktop rebooting and freezing up. I found out that one of my four 4GB sticks of RAM is bad, so hopefully that solves the problem, but I'll keep testing to be sure. Anyways, I found the same model number of 4GB RAM available on NewEgg. I was going to get just one stick, but my dad says I should get a two pack to be sure that it's the same, or something. By his logic, I should actually get four sticks and replace everything. What do you think? Should I buy one or two sticks?
Edit: Thanks for the quick responses. I got the sticks back in 2014, so I thought RMA was out of the question, but I see on the original product webpage that the warranty is "limited lifetime", so I'll look into that.
Edit: Thanks for the quick responses. I got the sticks back in 2014, so I thought RMA was out of the question, but I see on the original product webpage that the warranty is "limited lifetime", so I'll look into that.
Iorv3th
Member
Just get what you need. If you have one good stick and just need to replace another you can get one, just make sure the timing on it is the same as the one you have if they are dual channel.
Think you should RMA it if you don't want to spend money.
Version 3.0
Member
Thanks for trying to help last week. Funny ending to this story: I needed to put in a ticket for something else, and found out you can't even do that on our IT's web portal with Internet Explorer. There's literally a message that says "you must use Chrome or Firefox to open a ticket, IE has an issue".
So I was wrong about them frowning on Chrome use in the first place. Got a ticket opened and they fixed it right up with a registry tweak. Turns out this happens a lot here.
The Shadow
Member
Well, it turns out it was related to a deep sleep setting in the BIOS. When I turned it off, the bluescreens stopped with both the IGP and a GTX 950 I pulled from another computer. When the R9 290 is in there, I get the random blue screens.
So I'm convinced it's the R9 290 now. Don't know what it could be though. I don't think it's a heat issue because I used to play Arkham Knight for hours at a time with no issue, but a few minutes into a remote desktop session and I'm getting PC rests.
Given the issue, can I sell it in good faith that it's just a random "fluke" between the R9 290 and the rest of my system, or is it a defective card. I have no idea.
I have a sandisk 3.0 usb stick (this one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0BD-000B-00311) and I have speed problems with it. It starts ok and then keeps falling, hovers around 20-30mbs, and then falls down to 1-2 then goes up and down constantly but often goes down to 0 bytes and then 300-700 then up and down, the last part is especially apparent when 2+ files are copied, takes forever to copy stuff.
Sometimes it works ok but usually like this, I ran checkdisk and some tests and everything seems ok, no errors or issues, it even averaged 40mbs write speed in some test...
I bought this damned usb stick because I need fast one to copy video files that I can play on my tv and for that money I could have bought bigger usb 2 which would probably run as well or better and I can't return it..
Anyone got idea what I can do or try? I switched from quick removal to better performance in device manager but I don't know if that helped.
Sometimes it works ok but usually like this, I ran checkdisk and some tests and everything seems ok, no errors or issues, it even averaged 40mbs write speed in some test...
I bought this damned usb stick because I need fast one to copy video files that I can play on my tv and for that money I could have bought bigger usb 2 which would probably run as well or better and I can't return it..
Anyone got idea what I can do or try? I switched from quick removal to better performance in device manager but I don't know if that helped.