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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Chamber

love on your sleeve
So is it wrong to assume the KS8000 isn't worth the upgrade?
I see a lot of negative posts about HDR, which the KS8000 should be doing best.

Also the lack of positive "wow HDR is amazing" replies is a let down.

I think people have the wrong expectations for HDR. It's not about having a bunch of glowing shit on the screen that immediately grabs your attention. It's often pretty subtle.
 

Veitsev

Member
Ok, I've now had HDR work for both TV and games and it's awesome.

I'm still confused about the game settings though and I changed a bunch of stuff and am not sure what was right.

I am on build 1142. The website says latest is 1142.1. Is this actually a different version or is .1 just the first version of 1142? Should I upgrade?

PS4 settings: should it be 2160p RGB or YUV420? Right now it's set to auto.
RGB set to Full correct?

TV Settings:
Game mode (I tried movie mode, it does auto detect hdr but the latency is SOOOO bad)

For HDR games: Set backlight to 20, color to Native.
For non-HDR games: set baklight to 20, color to auto?

Is backlight and color the only two things that need to be changed between hdr and non-hdr?
I think your firmware is fine, can't hurt to try and update if you aren't sure.

Don't set it to RGB or YUV420 leave it on auto.

I would leave RGB on auto if possible rather than limited/full. I think full is for pc. I didn't touch this setting so I am not sure.

HDR: set backlight to 20 color to auto. Putting it on native was due to a bug and that recommendation is now outdated. Auto is more accurate/vibrant.
Non-HDR: set backlight somewhere between 4-10 (with 4 being in a pitch black room 10 in a bright room) with color to auto. Maxed out backlight on non-HDR content will result in poor black levels and crushed whites. Low as possible is best. I settled on 7 but this depends on the lighting of the room. Rtings.com recommends a level of 4 in a pitch black room. You may find this leads to a dimmer picture than you are used to. This is normal.

For HDR mode Smart LED should be set to high and on both modes you should not have anything like dynamic contrast or auto motion plus on. Turn that crap off. Contrast should also be at 100.
For non-HDR same thing but Smart LED is up to you. I found that it can mess up watching subtitled content as the colors of the subs will be dimmed in weird areas. If so turn it to low.

When will the new tvs come out?

Post superbowl

I have my cable connected to hdmi 1 and my ps4pro connected to hdmi 2. Does this matter at all for hdr?

Doesn't seem to matter. Consoles must have HDMI UHD Color enabled for their respective hdmi port though for HDR to work.

I think people have the wrong expectations for HDR. It's not about having a bunch of glowing shit on the screen that immediately grabs your attention. It's often pretty subtle.

This is true. HDR is about delivering realistic color and intense focused brightness without losing detail.
 

Filth

Member
no, but you have to turn on the uhd color option for each individual input.

Yep, i turned it on for hdmi 1 and 2. Ive been reading the other thread all day at the gym and as soon as i get home im going to see my settings. The only game i have is battlefied 1 but o believe it hasnt been patched yet for hdr. Am i correct guys ?
 

Rbk_3

Member
Just started using it and one weird issue is the tv seems to randomly auto dim even though I have energy saver features turned off. Any ideas on that?

It started to do this for me too when I got my Pro. If I go into a dark menus for example, the picture will dim. When I exit the menu it will go back to the game and stay dimmer then brighten. I found turning the local dimming to Low fixed it, and it doesn't always do it on high.

This never happened with the regular PS4
 

coopolon

Member
I think your firmware is fine, can't hurt to try and update if you aren't sure.

Don't set it to RGB or YUV420 leave it on auto.

I would leave RGB on auto if possible rather than limited/full. I think full is for pc. I didn't touch this setting so I am not sure.

HDR: set backlight to 20 color to auto. Putting it on native was due to a bug and that recommendation is now outdated. Auto is more accurate/vibrant.
Non-HDR: set backlight somewhere between 4-10 (with 4 being in a pitch black room 10 in a bright room) with color to auto. Maxed out backlight on non-HDR content will result in poor black levels and crushed whites. Low as possible is best. I settled on 7 but this depends on the lighting of the room. Rtings.com recommends a level of 4 in a pitch black room. You may find this leads to a dimmer picture than you are used to. This is normal.

For HDR mode Smart LED should be set to high and on both modes you should not have anything like dynamic contrast or auto motion plus on. Turn that crap off. Contrast should also be at 100.
For non-HDR same thing but Smart LED is up to you. I found that it can mess up watching subtitled content as the colors of the subs will be dimmed in weird areas. If so turn it to low.



Post superbowl



Doesn't seem to matter. Consoles must have HDMI UHD Color enabled for their respective hdmi port though for HDR to work.



This is true. HDR is about delivering realistic color and intense focused brightness without losing detail.

Thank you very much!
 
Does anyone know how to turn off the auto switching to the PS4 Pro at all?

Example:

I'm on HDMI2 watching Sky HD, I plug the PS4 Pro in and turn it on via the controller.
The TV Auto switches to HDMI 1 and displays the PS4 Pro dashboard.

Now, I've turned off: HDMI-CEC on the TV and HDMI Link in the PS4 settings, but it still happens.

Can anyone confirm if they have this or if they know how to turn it off?
 

SeanR1221

Member
I think your firmware is fine, can't hurt to try and update if you aren't sure.

Don't set it to RGB or YUV420 leave it on auto.

I would leave RGB on auto if possible rather than limited/full. I think full is for pc. I didn't touch this setting so I am not sure.

HDR: set backlight to 20 color to auto. Putting it on native was due to a bug and that recommendation is now outdated. Auto is more accurate/vibrant.
Non-HDR: set backlight somewhere between 4-10 (with 4 being in a pitch black room 10 in a bright room) with color to auto. Maxed out backlight on non-HDR content will result in poor black levels and crushed whites. Low as possible is best. I settled on 7 but this depends on the lighting of the room. Rtings.com recommends a level of 4 in a pitch black room. You may find this leads to a dimmer picture than you are used to. This is normal.

For HDR mode Smart LED should be set to high and on both modes you should not have anything like dynamic contrast or auto motion plus on. Turn that crap off. Contrast should also be at 100.
For non-HDR same thing but Smart LED is up to you. I found that it can mess up watching subtitled content as the colors of the subs will be dimmed in weird areas. If so turn it to low.



Post superbowl



Doesn't seem to matter. Consoles must have HDMI UHD Color enabled for their respective hdmi port though for HDR to work.



This is true. HDR is about delivering realistic color and intense focused brightness without losing detail.


Fantastic summary and should be in the OP.

Basically, keep everything the same, except up the backlight when HDR is on :)
 

SeanR1221

Member
Yes leave it on auto. Its not washed out on non-HDR. That is how it is supposed to look. Native saturates colors and crushes blacks.

I immediately noticed the difference on the icon for infamous first light.

Fetch's skin tone looked much more natural when I went to Auto

Also good tip on the backlight on non HDR content. I was at 15 and moving it to 10 looks much better (very well lit room, lots of LED lighting).

15 was washing it out a bit and not making anything more visible.
 

Steve152

Neo Member
Can anyone let me know the spacing between the legs on the 55 inch KS7000 (UK model number)? I'm wonder how large the TV stand needs to be.

Google isn't being very helpful!
 

Veitsev

Member
Can anyone let me know the spacing between the legs on the 55 inch KS7000 (UK model number)? I'm wonder how large the TV stand needs to be.

Google isn't being very helpful!

If UK KS7000 = US KS8000 the distance between the legs is 43" with the stand being 44.1" x 9.1".
 

Veitsev

Member
Native doesn't seem to crush blacks in non HDR. Doesn't native actually show the full wider color gamut?

Native is showing unrealistic oversaturated colors. It is not an accurate color gamut. I clearly saw crushed blacks watching 4k non-hdr content. This may be less apparent if you have your backlight cramped up beyond what it should be.
 

NYHorn36

Member
I got my tv on Wednesday and today I think I'm noticing a light bleed problem. I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before, maybe it takes a few days to kick in. How much of it should I expect and should I try to replace it or is it not worth the hassle?
 

Veitsev

Member
I got my tv on Wednesday and today I think I'm noticing a light bleed problem. I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before, maybe it takes a few days to kick in. How much of it should I expect and should I try to replace it or is it not worth the hassle?

Some light bleed is normal due to it being an edge lit display. My unit doesn't have much at all. Its really down to personal tolerance but keep in mind that there is no guarantee a new unit will be better. It might actually be worse. This is a limit of the technology.
 

Rbk_3

Member
I got my tv on Wednesday and today I think I'm noticing a light bleed problem. I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before, maybe it takes a few days to kick in. How much of it should I expect and should I try to replace it or is it not worth the hassle?



My 8000 has none, the 8500 I had first was a disaster, bleed everywhere.
 

tommyguns

Member
Native is showing unrealistic oversaturated colors. It is not an accurate color gamut. I clearly saw crushed blacks watching 4k non-hdr content. This may be less apparent if you have your backlight cramped up beyond what it should be.

My backlight is set at 5. Dark room.

I've tested this the last few days and I don't see crushed blacks while using native. Could you give me some content that you used so I can test as well?
 

Veitsev

Member
My backlight is set at 5. Dark room.

I've tested this the last few days and I don't see crushed blacks while using native. Could you give me some content that you used so I can test as well?

I was messing with this myself and I distinctly remember seeing crushed blacks watching Orange is the New Black. There were details in the character faces and scenery that got wiped out completely with native on vs auto where those details were clear. I specifically remember a shelf going from visible to obscured and was like "oh no".
 

tommyguns

Member
I was messing with this myself and I distinctly remember seeing crushed blacks watching Orange is the New Black. There were details in the character faces and scenery that got wiped out completely with native on vs auto where those details were clear. I specifically remember a shelf going from visible to obscured and was like "oh no".

Interesting. Like I said, I have not seen any crushed black with color space on the TV set to Native. (Non HDR...during HDR I set to auto) however, all I've been doing is playing games. I am usually a stickler for things like this.

I have not watched any TV or movies yet. I will watch orange is the new black since that's the example you mentioned to see if I can notice anything!
 
i'm a little confused here because there are so many settings people are throwing out. how exactly are you supposed to activate HDR on the tv? i tested out a show on amazon prime that was supposed to be HDR and notice no difference
 
So switched cables switched hdmi ports. I think my ps4 pro or tv is faulty...cause keeps switching to black. Maybe i should try setting that thing in safe mode people did for the vizios.
 
Maybe I enabled some setting somewhere but does anyone know why when I turn the TV on it automatically turns my Xbox One S on?

It's really irritating lol.
 

Pantz

Member
Maybe I enabled some setting somewhere but does anyone know why when I turn the TV on it automatically turns my Xbox One S on?

It's really irritating lol.

it was doing it with my direct tv until i programmed my remote. can you program remotes with xbox?
 

DjRalford

Member
Where do I find that option on the tv or ps4 pro didnt see it in either.

should be in settings on the PS4

hdcp.jpg
 

SeanR1221

Member
So switched cables switched hdmi ports. I think my ps4 pro or tv is faulty...cause keeps switching to black. Maybe i should try setting that thing in safe mode people did for the vizios.

That stinks :(

I was having the same problem yesterday but changing the hdmi cord helped
 

tommyguns

Member
I think people have the wrong expectations for HDR. It's not about having a bunch of glowing shit on the screen that immediately grabs your attention. It's often pretty subtle.

This. Great response. I think many people are expecting.."HDR will make all my colors super vibrant and crazy different."

When in reality, it creates a more natural image with highlights in the sky much more visible, for example.
 

Haines

Banned
Hey guys OP here

Just picked up my tv today and spent all afternoon re reading this thread and trying to set up my tv uust on ps home screen thus far.

I will absolutely update the op once we get a nice confirmed write up.
If you guys want to, start one up, add to it, add preferences, etc

Because once i finally get this set up i want to relax and play some games, its been a long freakn wait for me
 

Haines

Banned
Something i re

Couple settings questions:

Gamma -1 for movies and games, 0 for HDR?

Im starting to see a lot of auto for black on tv and rgb range? Is this now where we stand?

Where did we end up on dynamic contrast for hdr? A firm no?

Color space leave on auto all the time now?

I changed my whit balance rgain to 9 and bgain to -9 like the avforums video said. I think this is something more personal to your panel right? I have a wow calibration disc but need time to do it tmrw

Ive watched everyone flip flop, and this seems to be the latest from what i can gather. This would be on this tv with a pro obviously.
Seems like only settings people are changing for hdr is contrast and backlight to max
 
Not a video question but since this is a ks8000 thread.. I was surprised to find I can pair my Bluetooth headset to the tv, it pairs fine but the audio drops occasionally, what can I do to make it work better? Also is that audio Quality as good as optical out (Dolby 5.1)?
 

Lkr

Member
Is the 8 series worth it to you guys? I know this thread is about 4K and HDR but I'm primarily a PC gamer and will be primarily using the TV to watch sports OTA and for streaming shit. I'm not sure if I should just go with a 6 or 7 series and save a bit of money
 

Humdinger

Member
I think your firmware is fine, can't hurt to try and update if you aren't sure.

Don't set it to RGB or YUV420 leave it on auto.

I would leave RGB on auto if possible rather than limited/full. I think full is for pc. I didn't touch this setting so I am not sure.

HDR: set backlight to 20 color to auto. Putting it on native was due to a bug and that recommendation is now outdated. Auto is more accurate/vibrant.

Non-HDR: set backlight somewhere between 4-10 (with 4 being in a pitch black room 10 in a bright room) with color to auto. Maxed out backlight on non-HDR content will result in poor black levels and crushed whites. Low as possible is best. I settled on 7 but this depends on the lighting of the room. Rtings.com recommends a level of 4 in a pitch black room. You may find this leads to a dimmer picture than you are used to. This is normal.

For HDR mode Smart LED should be set to high and on both modes you should not have anything like dynamic contrast or auto motion plus on. Turn that crap off. Contrast should also be at 100.

For non-HDR same thing but Smart LED is up to you. I found that it can mess up watching subtitled content as the colors of the subs will be dimmed in weird areas. If so turn it to low

Doesn't seem to matter. Consoles must have HDMI UHD Color enabled for their respective hdmi port though for HDR to work.

Fantastic summary and should be in the OP.

Basically, keep everything the same, except up the backlight when HDR is on :)

Yes, I agree -- that was a helpful summary. I appreciate it. All the talk was getting pretty confusing. I was getting turned off this model, because it seemed to complex to figure out all the different settings. I don't want a TV that gives me a headache to set up. Good to hear it can be boiled down to something fairly simple.

I was going to wait until late next year to get one, but listening to all the good feedback, I'm starting to consider picking up one of these (60" or 65") earlier than that.
 
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