[Kraftwerk]

@Jamesfrom818:

Good choice with going for a steel frame. So much smoother. I only ride steel when it comes to road/single speed bikes.

---

This year I'm going to take MTB more seriously. My current top choice is this baby:

SCOTT Genius 50




Just waiting for it to arrive at the bike shop, so I can test ride it first. Wanted to go with a 29er instead, but after doing some trail rides on both 26" and 29" bikes, I decided not to go with the 29er. I had much more control on the 26" bike.

Can't wait to hit the trail this year!

[RubxQub]

What would be the best way to sell a bike would you say? My Electra Townie 7D is awesome, but unfortunately the type of riding I'm trying to do these days requires a wider range of gears and off-roadability.

If I can recoupe half the cost I'd be a happy dude.

[Kraftwerk]

What would be the best way to sell a bike would you say? My Electra Townie 7D is awesome, but unfortunately the type of riding I'm trying to do these days requires a wider range of gears and off-roadability. If I can recoupe half the cost I'd be a happy dude.

Pinkbike gives the best value from my experience. Put it on craigslist also, and list it $50 above the money you want to make.

Another option is, going to the store where the bike you want to buy is located, and ask if they do trades. That will knock off a little $$ of the new bike you wanna get.

BTW, what year/color Townie is it?

[RubxQub]

Pinkbike gives the best value from my experience. Put it on craigslist also, and list it $50 above the money you want to make. Another option is, going to the store where the bike you want to buy is located, and ask if they do trades. That will knock off a little $$ of the new bike you wanna get. BTW, what year/color Townie is it?

I'll check that out, thanks.

It's a black frame with orange accents in the wheels. I'm guessing it's a 2010 or a 2011 since I bought it less than a year ago, but that's entirely a guess.

[robox]

got myself a new bike on clearance at competitive cyclist.
unpacked and assembled just like their video says. and got some freebie lights, reflectors and a bell too, which i didn't expect. they really do have great service.

[abuC]

Do you guys ride in the winter (Cold areas)?

[Jamesfrom818]

@Jamesfrom818: Good choice with going for a steel frame. So much smoother. I only ride steel when it comes to road/single speed bikes. --- This year I'm going to take MTB more seriously. My current top choice is this baby: SCOTT Genius 50 Just waiting for it to arrive at the bike shop, so I can test ride it first. Wanted to go with a 29er instead, but after doing some trail rides on both 26" and 29" bikes, I decided not to go with the 29er. I had much more control on the 26" bike. Can't wait to hit the trail this year!

Thanks! A had some Amazon giftcards and Amazon Prime shipping made it a no brainer.

[Prowl]

Somebody needs to invent a shotgun that can be attached to a bike frame Cycling is no fun in September in my neck of the woods.

Small world, I use to live around the corner from this street.

[Kraftwerk]

got myself a new bike on clearance at competitive cyclist. unpacked and assembled just like their video says. and got some freebie lights, reflectors and a bell too, which i didn't expect. they really do have great service.

HOT DAMN A BMC!

*bow*

BMC has incredible quality and workmanship. You shall love that bike.

Do you guys ride in the winter (Cold areas)?

I do, unless it's extremely cold. Like a blizzard or something.

Winter riding is about wind-proofing your body really. You don't need to wear 6 layers and a super thick coat/jacket. You will get warm after 10 minutes of pedalling. It's all about that wretched wind chill.

Good gloves are a no-brainer. If you don't have wind-proof pants/jackets, you can head to your local bike shop and buy Arm Warmers and Leg Warmers, and wear them under your clothes. They make a HUGE difference.

The MUST for me, when it comes to winter riding, is face protection. I have a LG Neck Warmer. It comes up to your nose and completely blocks the wind. Just put on your winter beanie and you are set. if you wear a helmet, then get a Thermal Cap Warmer. It's a thin layer that warms your head/ears. Then just wear the helmet on top of it.

You could also go with a Balaclava for maximum effect.

That's it for your body.

For the bike, 2 things I recommend is ICE WAX for the chain/drivetrain to keep it running smoothly in the cold. And studded tires. If you want to be able to ride in the snow/ice without the fear of falling every 10 seconds, studded tires make it feel like summer. They are awesome.

[B-Ri]

I REALLY want a bike, I want to stop driving my car for my every day things (grocery store, work, class). I live in Hollywood.

The last bike I owned was when i was 11 and it was those huffy bikes with green lights on the front.

I want a new bike to ride around town, but I am turning into a hipster and I want something a bit more vintage, and an upright, but I am also so effing scared of buying off craigslist cause I wonder how many were stolen!

Any ideas/suggestions?

[Incognito]

Do you guys ride in the winter (Cold areas)?

i've been using the winter to train. 3-4 times a week of leg exercises followed by quick 10-15 minute bursts on the stationary. i have a date circled on the calendar for when i'll be hitting the road again.

[Kraftwerk]

I REALLY want a bike, I want to stop driving my car for my every day things (grocery store, work, class). I live in Hollywood. The last bike I owned was when i was 11 and it was those huffy bikes with green lights on the front. I want a new bike to ride around town, but I am turning into a hipster and I want something a bit more vintage, and an upright, but I am also so effing scared of buying off craigslist cause I wonder how many were stolen! Any ideas/suggestions?

What's your budget?

[brentech]

Only been on my trainer since November. Decent day here in northern Ohio...about 50 out right now...gotta remove from trainer and remount my normal tire. Out I go!

Hills, yay!

[bucknuticus]

Only been on my trainer since November. Decent day here in northern Ohio...about 50 out right now...gotta remove from trainer and remount my normal tire. Out I go! Hills, yay!

Did the same here in central ohio today, around 60 out, so niiiiiice.

[outunderthestars]

Only been on my trainer since November. Decent day here in northern Ohio...about 50 out right now...gotta remove from trainer and remount my normal tire. Out I go! Hills, yay!

When I was in the bike business I used to love the first warm day of winter, because you'd suddenly see a bunch of bikes with yellow trainer tires on their rear wheels skidding about town.

[brentech]

When I was in the bike business I used to love the first warm day of winter, because you'd suddenly see a bunch of bikes with yellow trainer tires on their rear wheels skidding about town.

Wow, really?
Can't believe people would forget to swap'er back.

and I'm back. Lost some endurance, lol.

[cube444]

I need to lose about 100 pounds so I will be riding the bike in the gym and then buying one (getting it as a gift) in the summer time.

[perryfarrell]

What would be the best way to sell a bike would you say?

Locally, on craigslist. I don't think the resale value on bikes like that is very high. Why not just keep it around (unless you have too little space).

[Jobiensis]

Bike GAF I need your help.

I got right hooked by a car (me in the bike lane, she cut in front of me) doing somewhere around 25-30mph. I'm OK, I managed to get away with just bruising, sprained shoulder and some neck pain. The insurance company has accepted 100% liability. The bike I'm not sure about. The handlebar grip end is broken, it looks like the handlebar is slightly bent. The brakes were mashed into the front wheel. The front wheel has a small dent (Mavic Kysrium Elite) and is slightly out of true. I'm nervous because past experience has shown me with these wheels is that if the rim gets mucked, eventually after truing the spokes will start to pull out. Also the front fork is carbon, and I'm not sure how safe it is after taking a hit like that. Overally, cosmetically it doesn't look that bad, which concerns me that I'm going to end up getting ripped off. Especially since the adjuster is adamant that everything gets depreciated including my helmet and backpack. She stated she can't put me in a better situation, and they won't pay for replacements. The bike is a two year old Specialized Sirrus sport.

Should I just go to a lawyer. For the property damage are they only required fair market value? I have a sinking feeling I'm going to end up with a bike I don't feel is safe to ride and a couple hundred bucks. :( My concern is there 'me not ending up in a better position' really means me being in a worse position than before the accident.

[Kraftwerk]

Bike GAF I need your help. I got right hooked by a car (me in the bike lane, she cut in front of me) doing somewhere around 25-30mph. I'm OK, I managed to get away with just bruising, sprained shoulder and some neck pain. The insurance company has accepted 100% liability. The bike I'm not sure about. The handlebar grip end is broken, it looks like the handlebar is slightly bent. The brakes were mashed into the front wheel. The front wheel has a small dent (Mavic Kysrium Elite) and is slightly out of true. I'm nervous because past experience has shown me with these wheels is that if the rim gets mucked, eventually after truing the spokes will start to pull out. Also the front fork is carbon, and I'm not sure how safe it is after taking a hit like that. Overally, cosmetically it doesn't look that bad, which concerns me that I'm going to end up getting ripped off. Especially since the adjuster is adamant that everything gets depreciated including my helmet and backpack. She stated she can't put me in a better situation, and they won't pay for replacements. The bike is a two year old Specialized Sirrus sport. Should I just go to a lawyer. For the property damage are they only required fair market value? I have a sinking feeling I'm going to end up with a bike I don't feel is safe to ride and a couple hundred bucks. :( My concern is there 'me not ending up in a better position' really means me being in a worse position than before the accident.

At my previous job, in a bike store, we got people in the same situation as you all the time.

They came in, and requested an evaluation of the damage costs. The mechanic and the manager would go over the bike inch by inch, and see what is damaged / broken.

Carbon is tricky. If you can visually see a crack/dent on carbon = replace it.

I say tricky, because sometimes the layers are damaged, but you cannot see it. One day down the line it will suddenly just snap. The only way to be sure if this has happened is to get an x-ray or something of the fork, which costs a lot.

Dent on wheels is also not good, since there is so much pressure on the wheel already. That dent will also gradually increase.

I would say to go to a bike shop you know, and get them to evaluate the bike. have them write everything down on paper and then hand it to the insurance company. They will have to match it.

[zchen]

So I'm looking to start riding again, the last time I rode a bike was probably 7 years ago. Never replaced it after it was stolen. I liked riding bikes, but never learned the ins and outs.

Would this http://www.jensonusa.com/Complete-Bi...is-Yyz-10-Bike (Rocky Mountain Metropolis YYZ 2010)be a good start? It will be riding on roads. Also, I'm confused on the sizing. I'm about 5'7" and 30" inseam, that means to order the 18" right?

Any pointers about maintenance stuff to buy will be appreciated too

thanks

[ConvenientBox]

Anyone recommend any affordable but slick looking helmets?

[Kraftwerk]

So I'm looking to start riding again, the last time I rode a bike was probably 7 years ago. Never replaced it after it was stolen. I liked riding bikes, but never learned the ins and outs. Would this http://www.jensonusa.com/Complete-Bi...is-Yyz-10-Bike (Rocky Mountain Metropolis YYZ 2010)be a good start? It will be riding on roads. Also, I'm confused on the sizing. I'm about 5'7" and 30" inseam, that means to order the 18" right? Any pointers about maintenance stuff to buy will be appreciated too thanks

Looks like a good deal. 18" should the size you need. Good start, since it has disc brakes. Because of that, you will be able to ride it perfectly in any type of weather.

Another good thing about bikes like that, again because of the geometry and clearance; you can putt knobby tires if you want to do more riding on rougher train, or just get fatter tires for a more comfortable ride. You can also get studded tires for winter.

Seems to be compatible with fenders and racks too, in case you want those.

Regarding buying maintenance stuff:

Buy a mini-tool set with Hex Keys / Allen Keys in it. You will mainly need size 4-5-6. This is to able able to adjust the handlebar, stem and seat post whenever you want to. If you want to even tinker more, you can use the same tool to fine tune the brakes and gears.

Buy a Teflon based oil for your drivetrain. ONLY BUY TEFLON based. This will keep any kind of dirt and other crap off the chain and cassete. WIll prevent rust also.

Always keep a spare tube on you, or a patch kit, if you can't be bothered with carrying a tube. This shit is a life saver. It's fucking annoying to be in the middle of a ride and getting a flat. then realizing that the nearest bike store is a 30 minute walk away.

Once you receive the bike, go to your local bike shop, and have them put it together, and doa safety check/maintenance.

If you have any more questions, lemme know.

Anyone recommend any affordable but slick looking helmets?

How affordable? I would highly recommend spending a little bit more and getting something strong and durable. Once you go above a certain price point, helmets enter the "Multi-Impact" category. Which means - as the name implies- they can take multiple hits, which also translates to tougher and stronger helmets. Cheaper helmets are DONE after the first impact.

In the past 3-4 years, I have come across hundreds of helmets, and nothing has satisfied my customers more in the looks and feel department compared to this guy:

Louis Garneau - EDGE

It fits incredible well, and has a very compact and sleek form factor. The black one looks like a pro $500 helmet when you are holding it. Super light too.

[ameratsu]

I have an old road bike (88 Bianchi) with the original 700c steel wheels. My rear wheel is out of true and wobbles slightly from side to side. The wheels are really heavy, and combined with gatorskins, it is extremely hard to change the tube on the side of the road. Even the bike shops I take the wheel to comment on how tough a fit it is.

So I want to upgrade to aluminum wheels, but the rear hub needs to be compatible with a Campagnolo drivetrain. Should also be easier to change when I get a flat. Any reccomendations in the sub $300 category? I am looking at something like this.

[ConvenientBox]

How affordable? I would highly recommend spending a little bit more and getting something strong and durable. Once you go above a certain price point, helmets enter the "Multi-Impact" category. Which means - as the name implies- they can take multiple hits, which also translates to tougher and stronger helmets. Cheaper helmets are DONE after the first impact. In the past 3-4 years, I have come across hundreds of helmets, and nothing has satisfied my customers more in the looks and feel department compared to this guy: Louis Garneau - EDGE It fits incredible well, and has a very compact and sleek form factor. The black one looks like a pro $500 helmet when you are holding it. Super light too.

ooo that looks sexy! Yeah 100-200 bucks is great for me, I mean I'm using a $30 pos from Canadian Tire... It just makes my head look huge and I want something a little better looking but of course, safer.

Is there a difference between road and mtb helmets? My current road helmet has the little wing at the front and less open vents, wondering how much that really makes a difference. The helmet you linked looks really good and I'm thinking of buying it.

[Kraftwerk]

ooo that looks sexy! Yeah 100-200 bucks is great for me, I mean I'm using a $30 pos from Canadian Tire... It just makes my head look huge and I want something a little better looking but of course, safer. Is there a difference between road and mtb helmets?

Honestly, the differences are barely noticeable. Most helmets these days - in that style - are for both. Pure road helmets are just more aerodynamic and lighter. You don't really need one, unless you go on long rides on your road bike.

Of course, there helmets like this also:

BERN

Very popular among the urban crowd.

As I said earlier, the EDGE helmet I linked you is a great all-round helmet. If you are doing something more specific, such as a race, long ride, cyclocross or something let me know.

I have an old road bike (88 Bianchi) with the original 700c steel wheels. My rear wheel is out of true and wobbles slightly from side to side. The wheels are really heavy, and combined with gatorskins, it is extremely hard to change the tube on the side of the road. Even the bike shops I take the wheel to comment on how tough a fit it is. So I want to upgrade to aluminum wheels, but the rear hub needs to be compatible with a Campagnolo drivetrain. Should also be easier to change when I get a flat. Any reccomendations in the sub $300 category? I am looking at something like this.

Jenson has a sale on the AKSIUM's by Mavic. great, great wheelset. They come stock on so many bikes, even expensive ones. They are very tought and reliable. You might have to get an 'adapter' to make it compatible with campy. should not cost more that 40-50.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Whe...um-Wheelset-11

If you spend a little more, you can get the Fulcrum Racing 7 Wheelset. You can buy them campy compatible.

[ConvenientBox]

Honestly, the differences are barely noticeable. Most helmets these days - in that style - are for both. Pure road helmets are just more aerodynamic and lighter. You don't really need one, unless you go on long rides on your road bike. Of course, there helmets like this also: BERN Very popular among the urban crowd. As I said earlier, the EDGE helmet I linked you is a great all-round helmet. If you are doing something more specific, such as a race, long ride, cyclocross or something let me know.

I'm an endurance road biker, I train 50-100km at a time, and I'm doing a long 220km ride in June.

[Kraftwerk]

I'm an endurance road biker, I train 50-100km at a time, and I'm doing a long 220km ride in June.

Oh..well. That changes things then. Since you are open to 100-200 you need something much more aero and lighter. The small airflow difference wil add up after 220km.

LG- Diamond.

It's on sale too. You could also look at the QUARTZ from the same company. Slightly lighter.

Louis Garneau - Diamond

This one from Specialized is a favorite of the TT and endurance crowd. Super light and sleek. That frontal vent channels airflow throughout your forehead and all around.

Specialized S3

If you are willing to go higher, then there is this:

Catlike - Whisper


My buddy and his bike shop team all rock that. As you can, VENTS! Super, super lights, can be adjusted to the point of insanity.

All of these will do the job for you. I know looks are important, but the helmet has to feel right.

WHen you put it on, tinker with it. Play with the straps and the adjustments. You should roughly have 2 finger space available between eyes and the helmet. Once you click the straps, and adjust it, it should be snug, but not tight and uncomfortable. Goal is so that when you tilt your head to any direction, the helmets does not slide to one side.

You probably know this stuff already, I just like to be thorough ;p

Again, any more questions, please ask away.

[ConvenientBox]

^ you rock man!

[ameratsu]

Jenson has a sale on the AKSIUM's by Mavic. great, great wheelset. They come stock on so many bikes, even expensive ones. They are very tought and reliable. You might have to get an 'adapter' to make it compatible with campy. should not cost more that 40-50. http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Whe...um-Wheelset-11 If you spend a little more, you can get the Fulcrum Racing 7 Wheelset. You can buy them campy compatible.

Thanks for the reply.

So how do I know if wheels will work, even when they say "campagnolo" compatible? In the description for these wheels, it says "Compatibility: Clincher wheels with Campagnolo 9/10/11 freehub". I have an older 12 speed road bike, will it work with my rear cassette that has 6 rings? Sorry for the noob question.

[Guileless]

Bike GAF I need your help. I got right hooked by a car (me in the bike lane, she cut in front of me) doing somewhere around 25-30mph. I'm OK, I managed to get away with just bruising, sprained shoulder and some neck pain. The insurance company has accepted 100% liability. The bike I'm not sure about. The handlebar grip end is broken, it looks like the handlebar is slightly bent. The brakes were mashed into the front wheel. The front wheel has a small dent (Mavic Kysrium Elite) and is slightly out of true. I'm nervous because past experience has shown me with these wheels is that if the rim gets mucked, eventually after truing the spokes will start to pull out. Also the front fork is carbon, and I'm not sure how safe it is after taking a hit like that. Overally, cosmetically it doesn't look that bad, which concerns me that I'm going to end up getting ripped off. Especially since the adjuster is adamant that everything gets depreciated including my helmet and backpack. She stated she can't put me in a better situation, and they won't pay for replacements. The bike is a two year old Specialized Sirrus sport. Should I just go to a lawyer. For the property damage are they only required fair market value? I have a sinking feeling I'm going to end up with a bike I don't feel is safe to ride and a couple hundred bucks. :( My concern is there 'me not ending up in a better position' really means me being in a worse position than before the accident.

If your damages are low health-wise it may be tough to find a lawyer to take the case because there won't be much in it for them. But if the adjuster is being a bitch tell her you're getting a lawyer, hang up, and let her stew for a bit and she may be in more of a mood to compromise. Her goal is to get your case off of her desk as quickly as possible for as cheaply as possible.

[Kraftwerk]

Thanks for the reply. So how do I know if wheels will work, even when they say "campagnolo" compatible? In the description for these wheels, it says "Compatibility: Clincher wheels with Campagnolo 9/10/11 freehub". I have an older 12 speed road bike, will it work with my rear cassette that has 6 rings? Sorry for the noob question.

I assume since your bike is more vintage, it has Downtube shifters? Meaning that the shifters are on the frame, instead of the handlebar?

[ameratsu]

I assume since your bike is more vintage, it has Downtube shifters? Meaning that the shifters are on the frame, instead of the handlebar?

Correct

[Kraftwerk]

Correct

ok.

Some things you can do here.

Downtube Shifters come with 2 modes; Index and Friction.

Index is like any other shifter, where it 'clicks' into the gear.

Friction, you move the shifter, and you feel the gear change, and you let go of the shifter. Some people prefer this, since you can go through multiple gears faster, and you feel liek a pro ;p

the reason I bring this up, is this:

IF your downtube shifters also have the friction mode, you can pretty much buy any wheel. The wheels you linked are a campy 9/10/11. If you buy that, and decide to keep our own cassette, you will need to have the shop to install spacers in the extra space.

I highly, highly recommend buying a new cassette.

You can buy a 9/10 or 11 speed cassette, and since you have friction shifting, you don't need to buy new shifters.

NOW....

If you hate the idea of friction shifting, and want to just stay with index shifting, then you'll have to stay with the 6 speed cassette. It is hard to find one these days, brand new that is. Again, in this scenario, you will have to have the bike shop install some spacers in the extra space.

Talk to a bike shop about this, specifically a mechanic. Just to be sure what I'm saying is correct. Since I'm not 100% on old school stuff.

[Jobiensis]

Thanks kraftwerk, just got back from a shop.

They put the bike damage at about 1300. Both wheels need to be replaced. They found it funny that my wheels cost more than the bicycle. The bike is probably totalled. I'm expecting a battle with the wheels, I know they'll want to roll that into the cost of the bike.

I'll see what the insurance says.

If your damages are low health-wise it may be tough to find a lawyer to take the case because there won't be much in it for them. But if the adjuster is being a bitch tell her you're getting a lawyer, hang up, and let her stew for a bit and she may be in more of a mood to compromise. Her goal is to get your case off of her desk as quickly as possible for as cheaply as possible.

That is pretty much what I did. I was a bit pissed when she said she couldn't let me get in a better situation. I'd prefer not being off the bike, I'd prefer to not be popping Vicodin like Dr. House. The better situation would be her customer not trying to run me over.

The police report puts the driver 100% at fault. I left about 18' of skid marks before I hit her.

I'll wait for a couple of days before I submit the property damage and lost wages forms.

[ameratsu]

ok. Some things you can do here. Downtube Shifters come with 2 modes; Index and Friction. Index is like any other shifter, where it 'clicks' into the gear. Friction, you move the shifter, and you feel the gear change, and you let go of the shifter. Some people prefer this, since you can go through multiple gears faster, and you feel liek a pro ;p the reason I bring this up, is this: IF your downtube shifters also have the friction mode, you can pretty much buy any wheel. The wheels you linked are a campy 9/10/11. If you buy that, and decide to keep our own cassette, you will need to have the shop to install spacers in the extra space. I highly, highly recommend buying a new cassette. You can buy a 9/10 or 11 speed cassette, and since you have friction shifting, you don't need to buy new shifters. NOW.... If you hate the idea of friction shifting, and want to just stay with index shifting, then you'll have to stay with the 6 speed cassette. It is hard to find one these days, brand new that is. Again, in this scenario, you will have to have the bike shop install some spacers in the extra space. Talk to a bike shop about this, specifically a mechanic. Just to be sure what I'm saying is correct. Since I'm not 100% on old school stuff.

Great info, thanks.

From what I've read, road bikes with 6 speed rear cassettes have frame spacing of 126mm, whereas newer 9/10 speeds have spacing of 130mm. This means that in order to accommodate newer wheels intended for newer bikes, the rear triangle needs to be "spread" to 130mm. This can only be done on steel framed bikes, of course.

So in order to upgrade the wheels on my bike, I will need

• A new set of wheels (duh)
• A new rear cassette (probably 9 speed)
• A new chain
• To have the frame spaced by a shop, or do it myself.

Now I just need to figure out if I want to spend $300 on my old bike when that could go towards a new one.

[Kraftwerk]

Great info, thanks. From what I've read, road bikes with 6 speed rear cassettes have frame spacing of 126mm, whereas newer 9/10 speeds have spacing of 130mm. This means that in order to accommodate newer wheels intended for newer bikes, the rear triangle needs to be "spread" to 130mm. This can only be done on steel framed bikes, of course. So in order to upgrade the wheels on my bike, I will need A new set of wheels (duh) A new rear cassette (probably 9 speed) A new chain To have the frame spaced by a shop, or do it myself. Now I just need to figure out if I want to spend $300 on my old bike when that could go towards a new one.

Up to you really.

There are a lot of sales around right now, so you can definitely get a new bike. I can recommend some too if you have a price range.

Not to sound like a salesman, but unless you really like your bike, go with a new one.

This will cost you $400+ tax, since you need a cassette, and the labor by the bike shop.

[bucknuticus]

Looking for a bike rack for my car. Anyone have any suggestion? Don't really want to break the bank on it.

Also it would need to fit a 2007 ford fusion if that matters.

Thanks.

[Kraftwerk]

Looking for a bike rack for my car. Anyone have any suggestion? Don't really want to break the bank on it. Also it would need to fit a 2007 ford fusion if that matters. Thanks.

The Saris BONES is IMO the best on the market. As far as the ones I have seen and used. My shop has sold to every type of car imaginable, and it always fits. Has the adjustable arms, to accommodate for different frame types. super lights, and does not scratch the car.

Even if you have only one bikes, the the BONES II. Just slightly more, but worth it.

They go around $120-ish these days.

http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Bicycle-.../dp/B0055QGS4Q

[brentech]

I have the Saris model that fits 3 bikes - works great and yeah, seems like it will adapt to any type of car. Really easy to adjust the legs the first time, but the straps take a few moments for you to find the best point to attach them to and then tighten up for a snug fit.

[ameratsu]

@Kraftwerk:

Say around $1000. Needs to have drop bars.

Also, the shop near me that I really like sells Giant, Specialized, and Kona if that helps. Giant TCR-1 sounds good from what I've read.

[Kraftwerk]

@Kraftwerk: Say around $1000. Needs to have drop bars. Also, the shop near me that I really like sells Giant, Specialized, and Kona if that helps. Giant TCR-1 sounds good from what I've read.

Yep. Buddy has a TCR, he loves it.

The TCR and DEFY are in the same price range. TCR being more about aggressiveness and speed, while the Defy is more about comfort and endurance.

Test ride both to get the perfect feel.

Based on Spec and geometry: if you are using the bike for commuting, and some light rides on the weekend, the defy might be the better option. More relaxed geometry.

[videogames]

@Kraftwerk: Say around $1000. Needs to have drop bars. Also, the shop near me that I really like sells Giant, Specialized, and Kona if that helps. Giant TCR-1 sounds good from what I've read.

Just curious, but why do you need the drops? If you're not doing some sort of sprints I can't really understand why you'd need them other than look.

If it's a comfort thing then you might want to look into getting properly sized/fitted.

Then again, if you want a road bike then you'll probably be getting drops either way.

Ugh, just want to go ride my bike but school has been overwhelming. I might be moving to Colorado, anybody know any good rides in the area? I've already made it a personal goal to get Zinn to touch my bike.

[ameratsu]

Just curious, but why do you need the drops? If you're not doing some sort of sprints I can't really understand why you'd need them other than look. If it's a comfort thing then you might want to look into getting properly sized/fitted. .

It's what I'm comfortable with. More than anything, i like having multiple hand positions depending on how aggressive I feel like riding. Riding with your hands in the drops puts you into a more crouched position, which I like on windy days. Most times I like having my hands on top of the brake levers. Other times I just rest my hands on top of the bars. I feel straight handlebars lack this variety, though maybe I would be just as happy with a bullhorn type bar.

@Kraftwerk: I will go try the TCR-1 and Defy 1 and report back.

[Fixed1979]

It's what I'm comfortable with. More than anything, i like having multiple hand positions depending on how aggressive I feel like riding. Riding with your hands in the drops puts you into a more crouched position, which I like on windy days. Most times I like having my hands on top of the brake levers. Other times I just rest my hands on top of the bars. I feel straight handlebars lack this variety, though maybe I would be just as happy with a bullhorn type bar. @Kraftwerk: I will go try the TCR-1 and Defy 1 and report back.

Update us when you get a chance, I came in here to ask about these two exact bikes. I want something to compliment my mountain bike and to be used strictly for riding (no commuting), the faster the better. I was leaning towards the TCR but I'm worried I might find it too uncomfortable having pretty much no experience on road bikes.

[ConvenientBox]

Oh..well. That changes things then. Since you are open to 100-200 you need something much more aero and lighter. The small airflow difference wil add up after 220km. LG- Diamond. It's on sale too. You could also look at the QUARTZ from the same company. Slightly lighter. Louis Garneau - Diamond This one from Specialized is a favorite of the TT and endurance crowd. Super light and sleek. That frontal vent channels airflow throughout your forehead and all around. Specialized S3 If you are willing to go higher, then there is this: Catlike - Whisper My buddy and his bike shop team all rock that. As you can, VENTS! Super, super lights, can be adjusted to the point of insanity. All of these will do the job for you. I know looks are important, but the helmet has to feel right. WHen you put it on, tinker with it. Play with the straps and the adjustments. You should roughly have 2 finger space available between eyes and the helmet. Once you click the straps, and adjust it, it should be snug, but not tight and uncomfortable. Goal is so that when you tilt your head to any direction, the helmets does not slide to one side. You probably know this stuff already, I just like to be thorough ;p Again, any more questions, please ask away.

Ended up grabbing a LG Edge today in grey, unfortunately it was the only colour had but it fits like a glove and I got it for half price! Can't wait to hit the trails, thanks for your suggestions bud!

[jamesinclair]

Started new job and with it bike commuting four days a week.

Anyone here have experience adding a dynamo and lights to a cheap bike?

[mf.luder]

Just picked up an old Concorde downtube 12spd for $50. Happy with the purchase and can't wait to ride. Currently it's in the shop getting some maintenance; cables were rusty, tires worn.

The weather that we've been having is making me anxious to hit the asphalt.

[Kraftwerk]

Started new job and with it bike commuting four days a week. Anyone here have experience adding a dynamo and lights to a cheap bike?

Grab some USB rechargeable lights and you are good to do. Super bright and tough.

Serfas makes some awesome ones.

[Para bailar La Bomba]

Started new job and with it bike commuting four days a week. Anyone here have experience adding a dynamo and lights to a cheap bike?

Don't skimp too much on lights irrespective how cheap your bike is because lights are there for your safety, not your bike's. Look at this website and read the reviews:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lights-reflectives/
They have free shipping to the US.