[adamsappel]

I wish auto shop had been a required course in high school (do high schools even have this option anymore?). I never took it because it was "for" grits and dirtbags and I was a spindly nerd. I think it would have served me in greater stead than some of those AP courses. Home economics courses should be required as well. I was the first guy to ever take a Home Ec class in my jr. high in West Virginia. It was scandalous.

[daw840]

I wish auto shop had been a required course in high school (do high schools even have this option anymore?). I never took it because it was "for" grits and dirtbags and I was a spindly nerd. I think it would have served me in greater stead than some of those AP courses. Home economics courses should be required as well. I was the first guy to ever take a Home Ec class in my jr. high in West Virginia. It was scandalous.

They still offer it in some high schools, but I actually didn't take anything auto related until college. Then I got a bachelors degree in Auto Tech....lol

[weekend_warrior]

I wish auto shop had been a required course in high school (do high schools even have this option anymore?). I never took it because it was "for" grits and dirtbags and I was a spindly nerd. I think it would have served me in greater stead than some of those AP courses. Home economics courses should be required as well. I was the first guy to ever take a Home Ec class in my jr. high in West Virginia. It was scandalous.

I took 2 years of Auto Mechanics in High School, got me out of a language requirement. It's definitely not for everyone, but it should be a visible option.

[parrotbeak]

Since moving a couple years ago and not having a place to wash my car, I started neglecting the outside pretty badly. I used to wash and wax it every couple months, but haven't done so in maybe a year. Yesterday I noticed some paint blisters. I can't afford to have the paint redone, and obviously I don't care that much or I would have taken better care of it. But is there a cheap and easy way to keep it from getting much worse? I mainly don't want it to rust. It's only 5 years old, but we have humid, hot and salty air here.

I was thinking I'd just start waxing that area more? Would that be a waste of time?

[weekend_warrior]

Since moving a couple years ago and not having a place to wash my car, I started neglecting the outside pretty badly. I used to wash and wax it every couple months, but haven't done so in maybe a year. Yesterday I noticed some paint blisters. I can't afford to have the paint redone, and obviously I don't care that much or I would have taken better care of it. But is there a cheap and easy way to keep it from getting much worse? I mainly don't want it to rust. It's only 5 years old, but we have humid, hot and salty air here. I was thinking I'd just start waxing that area more? Would that be a waste of time?

blisters means rust, and the only way to deal with rust is to remove it and seal the area. You could it yourself pretty easily for around 20 bucks, if you don't care about it not looking entirely professional.

[Flying_Phoenix]

I wish auto shop had been a required course in high school (do high schools even have this option anymore?). I never took it because it was "for" grits and dirtbags and I was a spindly nerd. I think it would have served me in greater stead than some of those AP courses. Home economics courses should be required as well. I was the first guy to ever take a Home Ec class in my jr. high in West Virginia. It was scandalous.

It's embarrassing how people know how to change an engine belt or a ball joint but can't cook anything more complicated than frozen pizza.

Home Ec
Auto
Computers

Three things people should know in this day in age.

Ok... first of all the pliers you were using in the video are the wrong type, you don't use linemen pliers to pull it off, you want to use channel-lock pliers to pinch the 2 tabs of the clamp together releasing the pressure around the hose. Like this: Secondly I wouldn't intentionally try to rip the hose out, because it's a waste of $8 to buy a new one, but the clamp can, if needed, be broken to release the hose. If you do break buy a new one that looks like this: Thirdly, it won't kill your car to drive it in the condition it is in now, it's just not recommended, mostly because it's such a damn easy fix.

Thanks. So what's the best way to break it?

Also so my car being so cold won't mess up my engine or anything? Just my gas mileage?

[daw840]

It's embarrassing how people know how to change an engine belt or a ball joint but can't cook anything more complicated than frozen pizza. Home Ec Auto Computers Three things people should know in this day in age. Thanks. So what's the best way to break it? Also so my car being so cold won't mess up my engine or anything? Just my gas mileage?

It may have an effect on the cars longevity bit it'll probably be alright. Nothing too bad.

[Flying_Phoenix]

It may have an effect on the cars longevity bit it'll probably be alright. Nothing too bad.

Ah okay. I've just been driving it this way for more or less a month now. Not even because I've been using my Mom's car alot.

My brother said something about how it's good for my car to be cold (kind of like computers). That it's only bad if it's too hot.

[weekend_warrior]

Ah okay. I've just been driving it this way for more or less a month now. Not even because I've been using my Mom's car alot. My brother said something about how it's good for my car to be cold (kind of like computers). That it's only bad if it's too hot.

Thats wrong. The thermostat you're trying to replace was specifically put there to prevent the engine from running cold.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Thats wrong. The thermostat you're trying to replace was specifically put there to prevent the engine from running cold.

Ugh this is why I hate getting advise from people unless I know that they are educated at what they are talking about. Especially guys because share of them love to talk about things like they are the expert even when they have no idea.

Anyway should I just rip out the hose and buy a new one and a clamp?

Where can I get a hose at? Autozone?

[weekend_warrior]

Ugh this is why I hate getting advise from people unless I know that they are educated at what they are talking about. Especially guys because share of them love to talk about things like they are the expert even when they have no idea. Anyway should I just rip out the hose and buy a new one and a clamp? Where can I get a hose at? Autozone?

Well first of all, what kind of tools do you have? Do you have channel-lock pliers, or even slip-joint pliers? Anything that can get the clamp off the way it was designed to be taken off?

[dalin80]

Engines that run cold burn more fuel and generate less thermal efficiency, running cold forces the ECU to add more fuel which over time can burn the cat out and wash the bores or thin the engine oil.

Also a focus doesnt have a single imperial bolt on it, its all metric.

[parrotbeak]

blisters means rust, and the only way to deal with rust is to remove it and seal the area. You could it yourself pretty easily for around 20 bucks, if you don't care about it not looking entirely professional.

Crap, that's what I was worried about. I didn't think it was rusting yet, cuz the underneath paint layer is smooth -- it's just a thin layer of what feels like plastic that's popped up away from the undercoat.

Alright, I'll look into it this weekend. I assume I'll need to sand it all off and reapply different layers of coating?

[Flying_Phoenix]

Well first of all, what kind of tools do you have? Do you have channel-lock pliers, or even slip-joint pliers? Anything that can get the clamp off the way it was designed to be taken off?

I have all types of pliers. It's just the fact that the clamp is to the side and is being blocked by the big metal bar is the problem.

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

I have all types of pliers. It's just the fact that the clamp is to the side and is being blocked by the big metal bar is the problem.

You can't push the little "wings" you have to squeeze together with a screwdriver or some other object to rotate the clamp so you can remove it? Rotate the clamp is what I'm saying.

And yes running cold is bad because you want the oil to heat up to operating temp so it is able to lubricate the engine properly. Running cold, the engine is still thick and won't circulate as well causing more wear on the engine.

And as far as the hose you should be able to ask for a thermostat hose for your car year, make, and model, and they should have it. What does it connect to? The radiator?

Edit: Also, if the hose looks like it's cracking/dry rotting I would just replace it. It can't be more than a couple bucks.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Rotate the clamp is what I'm saying.

I've tried but I can't.

And as far as the hose you should be able to ask for a thermostat hose for your car year, make, and model, and they should have it. What does it connect to? The radiator?

I don't know, it's connected to the front of the car.

[daw840]

I've tried but I can't. I don't know, it's connected to the front of the car.

It will be called an upper radiator hose. The thermostat is connected to the engine block which is connected to the hose which is connected to the radiator.....

[Flying_Phoenix]

It will be called an upper radiator hose. The thermostat is connected to the engine block which is connected to the hose which is connected to the radiator.....

Alright. Just look at the first picture of my car in the OP. The hose just keeps going toward the front until it stops.

The bad news is that what ever the hose is connected too, it uses the same stupid clamp. So I have to do that twice! :(

[daw840]

Alright. Just look at the first picture of my car in the OP. The hose just keeps going toward the front until it stops. The bad news is that what ever the hose is connected too, it uses the same stupid clamp. So I have to do that twice! :(

Sorry, I'm kind of drunk and the dot dot dot may have sounded assholish. It was not intentional. It's an upper radiator hose. Just ask for that and they will give it to you. Get the old one off however you can, replace the clips with those in the pic above (the ones that screw tight) and then your life will be easier.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Sorry, I'm kind of drunk and the dot dot dot may have sounded assholish. It was not intentional.

It wasn't don't worry. I didn't imply it was. You really are drunk. :P

It's an upper radiator hose. Just ask for that and they will give it to you. Get the old one off however you can, replace the clips with those in the pic above (the ones that screw tight) and then your life will be easier.

Thanks.

[Flying_Phoenix]

So yeah I got the hose. Now how do I go about breaking the existing one?

[Flying_Phoenix]

So yeah I got the hose. Now how do I go about breaking the existing one?

Anybody?

Also can I do this shit in rain. It's raining here.

[daw840]

You could probably just cut it off with a knife and then try to just pull that clamp out with the pliers.

[weekend_warrior]

The hose wasn't the problem, the clamp was the problem.

You need to attack that clamp with some pliers and elbow grease until you twisted it enough that you can get a pair of plier jaws around the tabs. Try working on the clamp on the other end of the hose, that's connected into the radiator. Spritz some wd-40 on it to loosen up any rust then go at it.

[Flying_Phoenix]

It's so frustrating! I can't get to the clamps! I guess I can take this shit off but even then I don't know ho wmuch that will help.

Can't I just drench the hose with lubricant and PB Blaster and try to slip off the hose from the socket?

[weekend_warrior]

It's so frustrating! I can't get to the clamps! I guess I can take this shit off but even then I don't know ho wmuch that will help. Can't I just drench the hose with lubricant and PB Blaster and try to slip off the hose from the socket?

I doubt that would work.

I don't know man, I just don't see how you're getting so hung up. It looks to me like you've got enough space to get some pliers around the clamp and twist it up to get access to both tabs. I think you're just expecting everything to be real easy. Sometimes you got to get in there and start making shit work. Stick your arm down there try twisting it with your hands.

[Flying_Phoenix]

There is very little room. It may look like there's enough but trust me there isn't. I can almost reach both tabs but no luck.

I'm going to unscrew the thin black bar just over the hose as that's what's blocking it.



I'm also trying to unscrew the airfilter's vent (that jug thing on the bottom) so I have room to work for the other end of the hose. But the left screw won't screw up all the way and while the right one does, it doesn't come off.

Stick your arm down there try twisting it with your hands.

Didn't work.

Also I ordered the car's manual that you recommended me. Should be in the mail Wednesday.

[weekend_warrior]

Looks to me like you'll need to snake your arm through all that tubing and get a pair of pliers around the clamps from the side.

[Flying_Phoenix]

That's exactly what I'm doing but that black bar is in the way.

The PB Blaster should be almost done now. I think I'm going to go outside and give it another shot.

[weekend_warrior]

I'm also trying to unscrew the airfilter's vent (that jug thing on the bottom) so I have room to work for the other end of the hose. But the left screw won't screw up all the way and while the right one does, it doesn't come off.

Those little plastic pop screws don't always come out all the way. They work like dry wall fasteners, you push the outside ring into the hole, then screw the middle section into that and it forces out little prongs that hold it tight. When you get the middle section unscrewed as much as you can take a screwdriver pry the outside ring up.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Alright fuck it. This is way too aggravating.

I have:

- One end of the hose in a hard to reach spot
- The things that are making it hard to reach are unmovable or at least to the point that if I did move them it would be considered dangerous.
- They have those shitty dual needle ends that make it hard.
- The other end of the hose is in an even harder to reach spot.
- It would take me a long ass time to unscrew everything just to be able to work.

This sucks. I'm just going to take my car to a mechanic so he/she can do it for $30.

Sorry GAF.

[weekend_warrior]

This sucks. I'm just going to take my car to a mechanic so he/she can do it for $300. Sorry GAF.

Fixed that for ya.

Sorry man, wish I could have been more help. If you lived near me I would have glad to help you with it. Maybe you should wait for that book to come in before you pay a shop to do it.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Fixed that for ya. Sorry man, wish I could have been more help. If you lived near me I would have glad to help you with it. Maybe you should wait for that book to come in before you pay a shop to do it.

$300!?

Shit now I have to do it by myself!

I'll wait for the book.

[ChefRamsay]

So I'm not sure if this is an actual permanent thread or just the one problem? But I have an interesting situation:

Gas tank is overflowing, despite not being filled.

Gauge reads 1/2 full, but when trying to fill at the pump, only a few litres will fill before the tank starts to overflow.

I am sure the tank is half full, as I keep track of mileage and fill-ups. The amount between fill-ups agrees with the 1/2 full gauge. My guess is something is blocking the fuel passage to the tank, causing it to overflow...

But my question to GAF is whether there is some mechanism I'm unfamiliar with that could be prematurely closing the passage and causing gasoline to overflow after just a few litres?

I'm not confident in my mechanical ability to work with any gasoline lines or valves, especially with the potential damage/death caused by a single spark, so I guess this is one for the dealer... Just want to be armed with some knowledge before I head over :)

[daw840]

So I'm not sure if this is an actual permanent thread or just the one problem? But I have an interesting situation: Gas tank is overflowing, despite not being filled. Gauge reads 1/2 full, but when trying to fill at the pump, only a few litres will fill before the tank starts to overflow. I am sure the tank is half full, as I keep track of mileage and fill-ups. The amount between fill-ups agrees with the 1/2 full gauge. My guess is something is blocking the fuel passage to the tank, causing it to overflow... But my question to GAF is whether there is some mechanism I'm unfamiliar with that could be prematurely closing the passage and causing gasoline to overflow after just a few litres? I'm not confident in my mechanical ability to work with any gasoline lines or valves, especially with the potential damage/death caused by a single spark, so I guess this is one for the dealer... Just want to be armed with some knowledge before I head over :)

That is definitely a trip to a mechanic if you think something is wrong. Have you tried filling it up with the nozzle in different positions?

[ChefRamsay]

That is definitely a trip to a mechanic if you think something is wrong. Have you tried filling it up with the nozzle in different positions?

Yup, and to no avail.

Hope it won't be too pricey :P

[Flying_Phoenix]

So I'm not sure if this is an actual permanent thread or just the one problem?

An actual permanent thread.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Halllleeeeellluuuuuuujaaahh!!!

[Flying_Phoenix]

Now I only have one question.

Where do I put this gasket ring?



In the housing like this?



Or around the thermostat like this?'

[Flying_Phoenix]

HELLLLPPPP!!!

[weekend_warrior]

Hmmm, good question. I would have thought the new thermostat would come with a gasket like the old one, something that wraps around both edges of the flange. Can you take the old one off and put it on the new thermostat?

Otherwise I believe the gasket should sit inside the engine block hole, looks like theres a lip for it to sit against.

Did you ever get that book in the mail?

[Flying_Phoenix]

Otherwise I believe the gasket should sit inside the engine block hole, looks like theres a lip for it to sit against.

That isn't a lip. That's the gasket on top of it.

Did you ever get that book in the mail?

Yep. It doesn't say. I'd assume it's around the thermostat because that's where the old one is right?

EDIT - It says do everything reverse with the installation so I assume that means put the gasket where I took it off.

[J2 Cool]

Worth a try, my brother's car broke down near the gas station today. We filled it up with a half tank and tried some fuel injector. This is a crummy video of how it looks, trying to startup (it almost seems like its bout to startup fine, why we thought it was the fuel line). Any help or general direction of whats wrong would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H89JxJM-Tg

[weekend_warrior]

Worth a try, my brother's car broke down near the gas station today. We filled it up with a half tank and tried some fuel injector. This is a crummy video of how it looks, trying to startup (it almost seems like its bout to startup fine, why we thought it was the fuel line). Any help or general direction of whats wrong would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H89JxJM-Tg

That's a very odd sound. How exactly did it break down as you were driving? Slowly puttered to a stop as if you ran out of gas? were you low at the time? Did you abruptly lose a lot of power and now it wont start? Is anything leaking? Any fluid puddles under the car?

[theultimo]

That's a very hard problem to diagnose, but it does sound like no fuel or something is cutting it off. I had a 91 olds 3.1 that the injector went out of like that. It would try to start, but wouldn,t work. Tough to say without checking. I would check the basics and work from there: air, fuel, spark. One or more of these are not working correctly.

[Flying_Phoenix]

Well GAF I finally did it! I put the thermostat in, put back the hoses, flushed the coolant box with water, filled it in with coolant, let the engine run for a minute or two then let it cool, checked for leaks, then took it for a test drive.

The temperature is absolutely perfect. Pretty much right in the middle.

The only concern is that the car is smoking in front but that is obviously due to the fact that a lot of it is wet because I drained the coolant via hose and it got a bit messy in front.

[The_Inquisitor]

Hey guys. 2000 Mazda 626.

So for about 2 years, I have had the issue where my car will randomly not crank for 15 minutes once every month or two. No clicking or anything. Power was okay in car, and the battery was/is good.

I can no longer start my car. Power is very sporadic. Sometimes when I put my key into the ignition the car lights and radio come on. When I turn the key I hear a single click, then lose all power. The power will then randomly come back on. turning key to start results in a single click and power loss again.

Had the alternator checked at Autozone and Firestone in past 3 days. Both said alternator and battery were ok.

Has my starter finally chocked on me, or is this potentially the relay? Thanks!

[daw840]

Hey guys. 2000 Mazda 626. So for about 2 years, I have had the issue where my car will randomly not crank for 15 minutes once every month or two. No clicking or anything. Power was okay in car, and the battery was/is good. I can no longer start my car. Power is very sporadic. Sometimes when I put my key into the ignition the car lights and radio come on. When I turn the key I hear a single click, then lose all power. The power will then randomly come back on. turning key to start results in a single click and power loss again. Had the alternator checked at Autozone and Firestone in past 3 days. Both said alternator and battery were ok. Has my starter finally chocked on me, or is this potentially the relay? Thanks!

It sounds like a relay. Or you just have some electrical ghosts, and those can be a sonofabitch to track down. I would start by checking all of the relays and fuses before doing anything. Those are relatively cheap fixes.

[weekend_warrior]

Hey guys. 2000 Mazda 626. So for about 2 years, I have had the issue where my car will randomly not crank for 15 minutes once every month or two. No clicking or anything. Power was okay in car, and the battery was/is good. I can no longer start my car. Power is very sporadic. Sometimes when I put my key into the ignition the car lights and radio come on. When I turn the key I hear a single click, then lose all power. The power will then randomly come back on. turning key to start results in a single click and power loss again. Had the alternator checked at Autozone and Firestone in past 3 days. Both said alternator and battery were ok. Has my starter finally chocked on me, or is this potentially the relay? Thanks!

Does your car have one of those anti-theft chips in the key? Your problem sounds vaguely similar to a problem I had with a car before. The chip would randomly not be accepted and power would shut down for a few minutes.

Otherwise sounds like an electrical gremlin.

[Acidhex]

Hey guys. 2000 Mazda 626. So for about 2 years, I have had the issue where my car will randomly not crank for 15 minutes once every month or two. No clicking or anything. Power was okay in car, and the battery was/is good. I can no longer start my car. Power is very sporadic. Sometimes when I put my key into the ignition the car lights and radio come on. When I turn the key I hear a single click, then lose all power. The power will then randomly come back on. turning key to start results in a single click and power loss again. Had the alternator checked at Autozone and Firestone in past 3 days. Both said alternator and battery were ok. Has my starter finally chocked on me, or is this potentially the relay? Thanks!

Starter solenoid. Some cars have two - one would be a relay and one would be on the starter itself. Could be that either one is bad, or that one of them may have a loose wire.