yea, i unfortunately will have to do that. I think its a combination of things. the tv is so dam vivid combined with the fact that the ps4 games are so sharp in 1080p that i end up focusing my eyes on objects a little to much as i admire the graphics. i noticed that when i play competitively on games like BF4 my brain shuts off and i just play off instinct i dont get the eye strain problems because im focusing on any one thing on the screen but when im playing games like killzone single player and especially assassin's creed i end up admiring the scenery so much that i try to focus on every little detail. that is usually when it bothers me.If you get eye strain, it might be too bright for you. Try lowering it and see if that helps.
Yea, I had that happen to me when I bought new TVs for other rooms in the house. But just lowering it a lil bit helped a lot. No more eye strain.yea, i unfortunately will have to do that. I think its a combination of things. the tv is so dam vivid combined with the fact that the ps4 games are so sharp in 1080p that i end up focusing my eyes on objects a little to much as i admire the graphics. i noticed that when i play competitively on games like BF4 my brain shuts off and i just play off instinct i dont get the eye strain problems because im focusing on any one thing on the screen but when im playing games like killzone single player and especially assassin's creed i end up admiring the scenery so much that i try to focus on every little detail. that is usually when it bothers me.
Also would anyone recommend some cheap speakers I could quickly connect to the TV?
Only turn it on for sports. It is an interpolation software that adds a screen between to make motion smoother on fast moving viewing.Originally Posted by IHaveCandy
So how beneficial is clear motion rate on Samsung tvs? I understand the TV I am getting has a true refresh rate of 60hz, and thats fine. But the TV says that it has a clear motion rate of 120. What does that mean? Is it improving the clarity of each frame? Is each frame being lit by the backlight faster so there is less blurring? How impactful is this to the picture quality? Should I care about this stat at all?
Plasma - 100 hour slides - 150 hour regular viewingHow long should I break in my TV before I get it ISF calibrated?
Also would anyone recommend some cheap speakers I could quickly connect to the TV?
LCD/LED - 100-150 hours of regular viewing.
Do you want surround sound or a sound bar. What shape is the room.
cool man, thanks for the advice. the honest reason i havnt lowered it is pretty retarded actually, it looks so attractive at the settings i have it on that it give everyone that "wow" moment when they look at it. kinda vain. lol.Yea, I had that happen to me when I bought new TVs for other rooms in the house. But just lowering it a lil bit helped a lot. No more eye strain.
Yea, it looks a lil too dim when you lower it at first but your eyes will adjust and it won't look dim anymore. The dang torch mode outta the box can mess with ya. XDcool man, thanks for the advice. the honest reason i havnt lowered it is pretty retarded actually, it looks so attractive at the settings i have it on that it give everyone that "wow" moment when they look at it. kinda vain. lol.
Do not use CNETs calibrations they are not very good. Try looking at avsforums with your model there is usually a settings thread for the TV or a owners thread with settings from people who have got ISF calibration.did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?
I can't help but to. I'll likely cry the day my Kuro Elite kicks the dust. It's such a beautiful thing, I'd hate to see it ruined. ;-)Man, I played every AC and GTA game for hours and hours on my old Panny plasma and zero burn-in. Don't worry about it.
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.Thank you. I think my constant sense of worrying about IR is what is going to be what ultimately keeps me from ordering the VT60, which I was ready to do yesterday. Now I'm leaning back towards either the W900A (seems to be best in class for LED displays) or the W850A which isn't quite as good but I think I'd like to have the stupid big screen. All of that is tempered by the price and the fact CES is a month away... I don't want to see OLED surprise people with much cheaper sets in a few months making the pricey $2000+ purchase burn a little.
I was so, so ready to. Still on the fence because of how much I know I'd be worrying about playing too long or a static HUD element vs. how great people say it is. If I opted for the VT60 I'd go for a super long break-in period of 400 hours (the highest I've seen mentioned) just for the added peace of mind. Seeing some people post pictures here of their Panny plasma with a collection of consoles underneath makes me feel better about the idea of buying one, silly as that might sound.Originally Posted by DJ Lushious
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.
Once again thank you (and others who have chimed in) for the feedback. Posts like this get me so close to just up and ordering one. Hurgh.
Yes, I used D-nice's settings from HighDefJunkies/CalibrationForums and the only issue we've run into is with really late night viewing (in pitch black room) the brightness can be too much and hurt our eyes, so we occasionally knock it down to about 20. Contrast at 87 is too high and once you break the panel in with slides (like I did for the recommended 100 hours), the D-Nice settings will really blow you away - there is also a separate batch of settings for using immediately out of the box and before breaking in, which you can find at the link above.did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?
Originally Posted by D-Nice @ CalibrationForums
North American TC-PxxST50 Reference Settings
*****Note: These settings are designed exclusively to be used on North American TC-PxxST50 displays after completing the Panel Prep procedure listed in post #1. Please do not use these settings unless you have follow post #1 100%*****
Picture
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 76
Brightness: 56
Color: 43
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
Photo Enhancement: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal
W/B High R: -7
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: -2
W/B Low R: +12
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: +3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.6 (50/55" models) 2.4 (60/65" models)
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
HDMI Settings
***Leave all settings in this menu at their default***
Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 PullDown: Auto
That is odd as I just turn auto-dimming off. Interface is pretty smooth (and remote is fantastic) as these types of interfaces go but I don't really use it much.I'm dunno man. I had one for a few months, and the autodimming any time there's a very dark image is very distracting. I also found the interface a little clunky and the camera to be substandard. The colours are over-saturated, but that can be fixed with correct callibration. Also, the response for gaming was adequate.
And it must be said that the frame and base are as sexy as they come. Damn fine looking addition to the living room.
But after 3 months of use, the dimming and some occasional slowdown on HD sport was too much for me, so I switched to a sony W90, and have no regrets. Better interface, more natural colours out the box, the blacks are better, with no notable dimming on transition, and as mentioned many times here, the response time for gaming is better than any other LCD/LED on the market.
That's the model I have. I haven't noticed any discernible lag issues. If you can find it cheap I would highly recommend it.What model do you have? I am looking to get the Sharp LC-70LE550U but there is no info on it in terms of gaming. Looking at other 70 inchers at DisplayLag but Sharp rate them as Bad.
Is this a TV defect or are shadows supposed to look like rings of shades. Would a different panel look better?
Again the model is UN55FH6003F.
We got it on a whim during Black Friday and another problem is no output.
Even though I wouldn't be able to use one to chat on the One, it'd be nice to at least use the output from the TV and play silently.
So I'll be picking away at it, but that means I will be without a rather large screen for a few years. I've been thinking about buying a 75"+ set to use while I pick away at the real HT.
So then, is there such a thing under $8K that's 4K? I haven't been following the TV market like I do projectors.
I'm looking into getting a VT60 within the next week or so.
Can someone link me to a post that gives me everything I need to know as far as running slides, calibrating, and all of that? I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now and I'm ready to jump but I just want to have all of the information before I go ahead and do it.
Thank you!
HereOriginally Posted by shadowsdarknes
Forgive me,
I'm looking into getting a VT60 within the next week or so.
Can someone link me to a post that gives me everything I need to know as far as running slides, calibrating, and all of that? I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now and I'm ready to jump but I just want to have all of the information before I go ahead and do it.
Thank you!
I think you'd be best to wait a few weeks and see what gets announced at CES. Although announced =/= immediately available, of course. Sony's got a 4K tv under $8,000 but it's 65". Meanwhile their 84" is $25k. At least in Canada, where we get fucked on tv prices, so I have no idea how much it is in the US.Originally Posted by Mattlikewhoa
Alright, so crunching the numbers, my basement project will cost us a LOT. About 30% more then I had expected.
So I'll be picking away at it, but that means I will be without a rather large screen for a few years. I've been thinking about buying a 75"+ set to use while I pick away at the real HT.
So then, is there such a thing under $8K that's 4K? I haven't been following the TV market like I do projectors.
So if you want 75"+ for under 8 grand, wait for CES. If nothing else, current models might get a bit cheaper, or you could get a good deal around the Super Bowl.
Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.
This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.
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