NeoGAF

Ok I connected my monitor and checked the monitor settings and the samsung shows up, but I can't seem to get the TV to show the HDMI port the PC is connected to.

My friend just asked me what upgrades he should get for his pc for Christmas, he has a $500 budget...couple of the important parts in his rig now...

i3-2120 CPU <---what i5 should he get to fit this motherboard?
GTX 460
4gbs of Ram


Thanks!

Originally Posted by BrassMonkey1010

My friend just asked me what upgrades he should get for his pc for Christmas, he has a $500 budget...couple of the important parts in his rig now...

i3-2120 CPU <---what i5 should he get to fit this motherboard?
GTX 460
4gbs of Ram


Thanks!

i5 3570k
hd7850
8gb ram

Originally Posted by d[-_-]b

Anyone able to get in on the retail edge program, those prices look crazy, sadly do not work in retail :(...
http://slickdeals.net/f/6458350-inte...ive-december-4

man, i wish i'd have known, i just started working at office depot. Could've shaved like $100 off my build.

Originally Posted by JimmyRickard

I'm pulling my hair out trying to get my pc to work on the TV.
This is so frustrating.

HDMI -> Windows key + P?

Originally Posted by cuevas, PhD.

HDMI -> Windows key + P?

That's what I've always used and I've had no trouble with both AMD and Nvidia GPUs.

Originally Posted by cuevas, PhD.

HDMI -> Windows key + P?

Yeah tried it. I think it's just a funky compatibility issue with the card and the TV, since my 560ti and laptop work fine on the Samsung, and the 7970 works on my little toshiba.

Spoke to the shop I bought it at and they said they would give me a refund, so I'm looking at other cards. Is the 290 a massive leap? I've heard it runs hot is that just bullshit or what?

in conjunction to this thread's topic, im shaking my head at the huge wave of people running out to buy SSDs for the new consoles, literally weeks after the 780 Ti came out.

its like, if you're so worried about performance, of which for the consoles, only the UI response times and game install speeds can be improved, why wouldn't you just spend that same amount of money for a PS4/XB1 and the SSD, for the top of the line GPU and be able to play the better versions of those games and all the ones after it for years to come? rather than to merely "load the crappier versions a bit faster", that's the antithesis of the console gaming market.

that would be like buying a pre-built PC and then turning around and immediately upgrading individual parts to higher end versions.

so my water cooler is coming tomorrow. for those of you that pushed me towards the gigabyte board (cough Karma cough) what do I need to do to OC this thing? (4770k and UD4H)

Originally Posted by thespot84

so my water cooler is coming tomorrow. for those of you that pushed me towards the gigabyte board (cough Karma cough) what do I need to do to OC this thing? (4770k and UD4H)

What kind of soldering iron did you get?

Sorry for the dumb question, but what kind of PSU would I need for a 4670k, 7970 and 560ti as a Physx card? I currently have a 620w PSU and am assuming that's not nearly enough.

Originally Posted by Vincent Alexander

This isn't good. I'm trying to get into my bios, or whatever it is technically called, for my MSI Z87 G45, and getting a very odd screen that looks like something failed to load. It was working perfectly fine earlier today. Everything else is still working normal.

Sorry for the shaky hands. It is asking for Boot Device Priority or something? I'm clicking the correct button, so no clue what is going on.

Boot Device Priority should be options like Hard Drive,CD Drive etc. It is just asking you to set what should try and boot first

Originally Posted by antonz

Boot Device Priority should be options like Hard Drive,CD Drive etc. It is just asking you to set what should try and boot first

What's odd is it gives me no choices. I can't seem to adjust or control anything at all, and I see no cursor in this view. I updated to newest BIOS, which reset my settings and got me back to regular BIOS screen I'm used to. I then adjusted the settings one at a time, and narrowed it down that this screen appears when I tell it to I'm using Windows 8 and to Fast Boot.

Originally Posted by Anton668

needlessly complex? its 4 screws and a cross. again, granted, its much easier to install with the MB out of the case, else you may find yourself for want of a extra hand. and yes, if you really want to, you can exert enough force to move the heatsink. but if youve done it correctly it shouldnt be a issue when installing the MB into the case with it attached.

and as to attaching a second fan, if for some reason you deem, down the road, you need a second fan (on pretty much any tower cooler) why would you gimp yourself by trying to do it while it was installed in your case? youre not giving yourself a lot of room to work, given than a vast majority of setups will be with the first fan blowing across to the rear case fan, youre really going to be limited on space to do adequate work.

Yet none of these issues are a problem on any modern heatsink that uses two mounting arms and two screws to attach heatsink to the arms.

Have you actually used a modern CPU cooler in recent times? For Noctua's stuff in the U series of CPU coolers, I can very easily install everything with a fully loaded case and without the need of removing hardware or being worried that I will unseat the heatsink because the cross is unable to prevent the heatsink from shifting provided enough force is placed onto it.

Are you seriously arguing that in 2013, a CPU cooler that can't be installed inside a loaded case is a good design? We've long created low priced heatsinks that can do all of this with minimal fuss even if you have huge hands. The solution is the two mounting arm, two spring-loaded screw solution that most companies are using now. The Hyper 212 is an antiquated design that only lives because of past glory of being the cheapest decent performing heatsink on the market.

The 212 install could be a lot better, I agree.

Originally Posted by Vincent Alexander

This isn't good. I'm trying to get into my bios, or whatever it is technically called, for my MSI Z87 G45, and getting a very odd screen that looks like something failed to load. It was working perfectly fine earlier today. Everything else is still working normal.

Sorry for the shaky hands. It is asking for Boot Device Priority or something? I'm clicking the correct button, so no clue what is going on.

Is it trying to boot from your installed OS and failing? I can't read that and don't know the rest of your posts.

If you can sum up everything you've done or requote your past posts it'll help (along with what you wanted to do and what you did)

Originally Posted by eival

in conjunction to this thread's topic, im shaking my head at the huge wave of people running out to buy SSDs for the new consoles, literally weeks after the 780 Ti came out.

its like, if you're so worried about performance, of which for the consoles, only the UI response times and game install speeds can be improved, why wouldn't you just spend that same amount of money for a PS4/XB1 and the SSD, for the top of the line GPU and be able to play the better versions of those games and all the ones after it for years to come? rather than to merely "load the crappier versions a bit faster", that's the antithesis of the console gaming market.

that would be like buying a pre-built PC and then turning around and immediately upgrading individual parts to higher end versions.

SSDs are faster, quieter, and more reliable. It's fine.

Originally Posted by thespot84

so my water cooler is coming tomorrow. for those of you that pushed me towards the gigabyte board (cough Karma cough) what do I need to do to OC this thing? (4770k and UD4H)

Get a hammer, a vice, and a block of wood :P
Read up on gigabyte Haswell OC'ing there's a lot of articles about it, you can also check the OP / Race PC thread.

Originally Posted by Ysiadmihi

Sorry for the dumb question, but what kind of PSU would I need for a 4670k, 7970 and 560ti as a Physx card? I currently have a 620w PSU and am assuming that's not nearly enough.

I'm guessing you have a Corsair 620HX? That, even while old and accounting for capacitor aging, should still be okay I think.

Originally Posted by Hazaro

I'm guessing you have a Corsair 620HX? That, even while old and accounting for capacitor aging, should still be okay I think.

Nah, this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817151096

Originally Posted by Ysiadmihi

Nah, this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817151096

Even better PSU-wise, but you'll need two molex/SATA to PCI-E 6 pin adapters if you want to use it.

Originally Posted by Hazaro

Is it trying to boot from your installed OS and failing? I can't read that and don't know the rest of your posts.

If you can sum up everything you've done or requote your past posts it'll help (along with what you wanted to do and what you did)

I'm only getting that screen when I press "DEL" to go into my setup. If I don't, I boot into Windows just fine. I narrowed it down that what caused this to happen is when I told my BIOS I'm using Windows 8, and from that Enabled "Fast Boot". Pretty much, this screen is preventing me from getting into my real setup to adjust settings, OC, etc. And when I'm on this screen, I can't do anything. No keyboard/mouse presses do anything, and I see no cursor. Just that red section stating MSI Z87-G45, and asking "Device Boot Priority" while giving me no choices. I'm ready to reset my BIOS and just leave Fast Boot disabled, but I'm not sure how to reset BIOS.

Originally Posted by Vincent Alexander

I'm only getting that screen when I press "DEL" to go into my setup. If I don't, I boot into Windows just fine. I narrowed it down that what caused this to happen is when I told my BIOS I'm using Windows 8, and from that Enabled "Fast Boot". Pretty much, this screen is preventing me from getting into my real setup to adjust settings, OC, etc. And when I'm on this screen, I can't do anything. No keyboard/mouse presses do anything, and I see no cursor. Just that red section stating MSI Z87-G45, and asking "Device Boot Priority" while giving me no choices. I'm ready to reset my BIOS and just leave Fast Boot disabled, but I'm not sure how to reset BIOS.

Shouldn't be an issue, but try plugging your KB/Mouse into the USB 2.0 ports, shutting down the computer, wait 2 minutes, turn off PSU switch, wait a minute, turn on PSU, wait a minute, power on system and see if you can get into the BIOS.

Originally Posted by Ysiadmihi

I'll have to dig around and see if I have some. Thanks for the help!

Edit: I have my CPU oc'd to 4ghz and my 7970 oc'd to 1ghz, but haven't raised the voltage on either. Would that matter?

CPU OC adds like 35W max load and the GPU won't add too much (Did you raise Powertune though?)
Just don't go running FURMARK on both and you'll be okay imo.

If you do experience some instability you can go for a bigger PSU. For kicks you can also buy a Kill-A-Watt to check ROUGHLY how much power your PC is using (adjust for AC/DC efficiency). It's also a great item to plug stuff into to figure out how to save money on your electricity bills too for the price.

Well, I slapped my 560ti in and the fans run, but it's not detected in Windows.

Originally Posted by Ysiadmihi

Well, I slapped my 560ti in and the fans run, but it's not detected in Windows.

Unless I'm missing something, do you have enough PCI-E power cables for both GPUs?

Is a gtx 780 overkill? Can it play recent games in 1080p on max?

How long do you think this card can last until it becomes outdated?

Originally Posted by TheFLYINGManga_Ka

Is a gtx 780 overkill? Can it play recent games in 1080p on max?

How long do you think this card can last until it becomes outdated?

It is not overkill. Yes. Maybe even 1440p.

You can overclock it, get some more life out of it, and it'll last a good 3 years?

Someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

Originally Posted by CRS

It is not overkill. Yes. Maybe even 1440p.

You can overclock it, get some more life out of it, and it'll last a good 3 years?

Someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

Okay. So at least for the next three years, it should handle the new releases at high-max settings?

Sounds good. I think by that time the more better ones would be cheaper. I think it's a fair time frame.

ASUS Shows Off Radeon R9 290X DirectCU II Graphics Card

Is anyone able to recommend some good cheap laptop brands? It'll be used for little more than browsing and some office stuff so the specs aren't super important (I'd been thinking about this one). Just really want to make sure I don't go for any duffers, but if anyone has something specific they'd like to recommend I'm all ears.

I want to keep the cost right down (it's for my wife, and she hates spending money on herself for anything), but would probably stretch to £450 for the right laptop.

Thanks. :)

Comfy couch GAF, what kind of keyboard/mouse setup do you use? I'm currently looking at the Logitech TK820:
http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/produc...-tk820?crid=26

I will be using it for everything except gaming, but primarily for controlling media playback.

Originally Posted by Number45

Is anyone able to recommend some good cheap laptop brands? It'll be used for little more than browsing and some office stuff so the specs aren't super important (I'd been thinking about this one). Just really want to make sure I don't go for any duffers, but if anyone has something specific they'd like to recommend I'm all ears.

I want to keep the cost right down (it's for my wife, and she hates spending money on herself for anything), but would probably stretch to £450 for the right laptop.

Thanks. :)

Looks pretty good to me, although unless I'm missing it they don't specify what kind of integrated graphics it has.

You could always go the refurbished route if you want to save a bit. I got a refurbished Z580 from Lenovo earlier this year and love it.

Originally Posted by 54-46!

Comfy couch GAF, what kind of keyboard/mouse setup do you use? I'm currently looking at the Logitech TK820:
http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/produc...-tk820?crid=26

I will be using it for everything except gaming, but primarily for controlling media playback.

I use a Lenovo wireless multimedia remote. Might not be exactly what you're looking for if you need a "real" keyboard though.

(this posts sounds like I'm shilling for Lenovo but it's just a coincidence)