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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Pachimari

Member
Press tab, or turn off the full screen boot logo in the bios.

That should show you the error that it is hanging on.

I did the bolded, and I still can't find the problem? It just starts up with an "American something" screen instead, and can still get stuck.

There's also a bootup setting, that says "UEFI & Legacy" - don't know if that have anything to do with it?

My system is on a SSD from last April.
 
I did the bolded, and I still can't find the problem? It just starts up with an "American something" screen instead, and can still get stuck.

There's also a bootup setting, that says "UEFI & Legacy" - don't know if that have anything to do with it?

My system is on a SSD from last April.

Do you have any devices plugged into the USB 3 ports? Especially the rear ones. I've experienced something similar before and it turns out it was the xbox 360 controller plugged into the USB 3 ports that was the cause of problem.
 

Pachimari

Member
Do you have any devices plugged into the USB 3 ports? Especially the rear ones. I've experienced something similar before and it turns out it was the xbox 360 controller plugged into the USB 3 ports that was the cause of problem.

All of my 4 USB 3.0 USB ports in the rear have something connected. To be frank, I lack ports at this point. I also have the official Xbox 360 dongle plugged in yes.

I'll try and unplug some.
 

Saprol

Member
Why are you even looking at the R4 when the R5 exists?

The R4 can often be found for a lower price than the R5. It offers the same noise-dampening features for those who aren't interested in or have no use for the modular interior.

Been looking over ATX mid towers. The dampening in the Fractal Define series seems good. It'd be nice to have a case with sound reduction. My current PC is just humming all the time.

I tried looking up some of the differences between the R4 / R5:
  • Better support for liquid cooling, although I want to just use air cooling for this build
  • Velcro straps for cable management
  • Latches instead of screws on side panel
  • Can swap which side the front door swings open
  • Bottom dust filter is removable from the front instead of the back
That last point sounds really convenient. Maybe these things aren't worth the jump in price. The new Define S is a cheaper variation on the R5 because it throws away the optical / hard drive cages and instead has two 2.5" / three 3.5" mounts behind the motherboard, but it also goes back to making the bottom dust filter slide from the rear. :(

Does anybody have suggestions on other cases with similar features?
 

robb_w7

Banned
Sorry for the awful focus but you'll get the idea:

https://vid.me/e/P2bJ

From boot up to the Windows login screen, the screen constantly flashes, once i log onto windows, everything is fine, no flashing, no broken image on screen, games run perfectly fine, no crashes or anything.

Why is this happening?

Its been going on for about 6 months now

Thanks
 

Pachimari

Member
Can't seem to figure it out. Now I have both my Xbox 360 dongle and remote control dongle unplugged, and it still does it.

Besides that, I see it have a connection with my SteelSeries Rivals mouse. Because as soon as it lights on at the Gigabyte logo, it boots up, and when it lights up again at the "Starting Windows" logo, it moves on to the login screen.

Wonder what the hickup it.
 

Narroo

Member
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147373&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL052415&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL052415&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL052415-_-EMC-052415-index-_-InternalSSDs-_-20147373-S0A

What do you think? I'm thinking of *possibly* building a PC in the next few months from scratch. In the meantime I can put this in my laptop (SATA 3GB/S) Would you say it's a good deal, or wait for when I actually make a new PC (which isn't a sure thing.) Or wait for a better deal? I'm in no rush with my HDD.
 
Hey GAF!

I'm looking into upgrading my GFs PC. For gaming only (light browsing, Adobe stuff on the side). :)

Here are the current specs:

ASUS P5B Deluxe
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (OC @ 3.2GHz)
Ninja SCNJ-1000 cooler + 120mm fan
4x2GB RAM
XFX Radeon 7850 2GB

Corsair HX520
Crucial MX100 256GB SSD
BDROM
NZXT Source 210 case
Dell U2412M, 24” LED 1920x1200
MS Keyboard 200
Steelseries Rival
Windows 7 Professional SP1 x64

Italics need to be changed, so I'm looking at a brand new:
MBO
CPU
cooler
RAM
GPU

She'll be gaming on that 1920x1200p monitor. I'm thinking 970 will be more than enough for the long term.

This is just an exploration for now, to see what's out there and what to look for.
The actual purchase will probably be in 2-3 months.
 

Sevenfold

Member
Ok just had a hard crash whilst listening to Little Dragon at full blast in my cans. That was un-fucking-pleasant. These W3 drivers man.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks for your reply -- really helpful. After doing the paper clip test, it seems that the PSU is ok as the fans keep spinning at low speed. Moreover, I've discovered the PSU fans stay on whilst connected to the motherboard, but that the CPU cooler and case fan both start-up and then stop every few seconds. Perhaps this indicates a motherboard problem because both fans are drawing power from the motherboard? Is there anyway to check the motherboard without replacing it completely?

Well, there's not really a way to check if the motherboard is defective. It's just something you assume to be the case if everything else checks out fine. You should contact the place you bought the motherboard from and arrange for a replacement RMA.

Edit: just like the other poster suggested, you should try each RAM stick in each RAM slot to see if that makes a difference. sometimes one stick in a RAM kit can be faulty.

Is posting a link to a pcpartpicker list for critique acceptable etiquette? I'll just assume so. Any comments, rebukes, etc. would be appreciated.

I'm not used to really picking out the details beyond the videocard and RAM, mainly for upgrades (which has almost half a decade at this point), so I'm not sure I've done everything correctly (or intelligently).

The goal I laid out was, more or less, to be able to make use of the monitor (Acer XB280HK) while leaving the possibility of SLI for VR in the future (although an upgrade to a stronger card at the time may be more reasonable). Speaking of the monitor, is there a meaningful difference between the "Acer XB280HK" and the "Acer XB280HK bprz", besides about a hundred dollars in price and different vendors?

Besides picking something that allowed everything to fit (and being very conservative at that), I had no idea what I was doing with the case. I would love a smaller one, assuming it doesn't come at the expense of noise and air flow.

The mouse, keyboard, and headphones are filler that I probably won't be picking up in the end, although I'm still interested in hearing opinions on the subject.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YzQZCJ

Hoping to use Memorial Day sales to save some cash (only reason I bothered to pick out the headphones, it's like 150 off).

The Corsair Vengeance RAM is large enough that it may interfere with the cooler and is overpriced for the speed. I'd get this 2x4GB kit of G.Skill Ripjaws X 2133MHz RAM for $53 instead, it represents better performance for lower cost, and should fit next to the cooler more easily. For low profile RAM that definitely won't interfere with the cooler, look at Kingston Fury, Corsair LP, or G.Skill Ares RAM. There are a number of cheaper and faster kits than that Vengeance Pro 1866MHz kit for $68.

Personally I wouldn't go with Seagate hard drives these days, they have a poor reputation. I can't speak for that particular model's failure rate because most of Seagate's high failure rates I think come from other hard drive models. For just a few dollars more, I personally prefer WD Blue ($49 for 1TB) or Toshiba drives ($48 for 1TB).

Right now the EVGA GTX 980 FTW for $521 is a better deal than the MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G. It's faster or equal in most areas. If you don't mind spending a bit more, then the flagship EVGA GTX 980 Classified is going for $575 right now. Seems expensive, but it used to cost $650~700.

It's just me, but I'd look for a power supply other than the Corsair RM line. They're geared for low noise which is nice, but they aren't exactly high quality for the price. If you prefer very low noise then it's totally fine to go with an Corsair RM series power supply. My usual recommendation is the EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt ($50), a fairly great bronze rated semi-modular PSU that is good quality, well-built, and is very competitive price-wise. Otherwise if you care for low noise, you could get the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model for $95 which is just a bit more than the Corsair RM750's $90 price tag. It might not be as quiet as the Corsair RM, but it still offers a low noise eco mode and higher quality internal components as well as also being gold rated and fully modular.

so , not having really payed attention to most of the GPU talk :

Why should i be excited for the upcoming Pascal cards ?

Also as a 780 ti classified owner i skipped over the 900 series .

would i see a enormously improved performance with Pascal cards over this one ?
Hard to say. Pascal is still very far away so there are no definite ideas about how much of an improvement it will be. Theoretically speaking it should be interesting to see, it will feature NVLink which is a high speed CPU-GPU connection up to 12 times faster than current PCI-E, and 3D memory similar to HBM which AMD will be including on their R9 390/390X flagship.

So I have this AMD R7 250X 2GB that started artifacting. Just got it for Christmas. It's been a pain in the ass, it's loud, and it underperforms in comparison to my old AMD Radeon HD 5670 1GB that it should theoretically be a bit faster than. I think it needs to be sent in, but the thing is there's no brand on it. It was purchased from Newegg, but Newegg doesn't list a brand and it's a reference design. I tried contacting AMD support a couple months ago and they were absolute shit in help and even marked the ticket as solved. I just wanna know who I should be trying to contact to get this fixed. I can't afford to buy anything new right now so I kinda need this card. any ideas? Thanks!

No brand? Can you give us the newegg link or show us a photo of the front and back?

Hey GAF!

I'm looking into upgrading my GFs PC. For gaming only (light browsing, Adobe stuff on the side). :)

Here are the current specs:

ASUS P5B Deluxe
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (OC @ 3.2GHz)
Ninja SCNJ-1000 cooler + 120mm fan
4x2GB RAM
XFX Radeon 7850 2GB

Corsair HX520
Crucial MX100 256GB SSD
BDROM
NZXT Source 210 case
Dell U2412M, 24” LED 1920x1200
MS Keyboard 200
Steelseries Rival
Windows 7 Professional SP1 x64

Italics need to be changed, so I'm looking at a brand new:
MBO
CPU
cooler
RAM
GPU

She'll be gaming on that 1920x1200p monitor. I'm thinking 970 will be more than enough for the long term.

This is just an exploration for now, to see what's out there and what to look for.
The actual purchase will probably be in 2-3 months.

Do you have a budget in mind? It'll probably be best to come back in a few months to see what the processor and graphics card situation is like, we'll be seeing new releases of both over the next month or three.
 
What are some easy ways to speed up boot time? Right now while booting it hangs for about 3-5 seconds at the ASRock logo. I already have a SSD so anything to make this thing faster would be icing on this delicious cake.
 
What are some easy ways to speed up boot time? Right now while booting it hangs for about 3-5 seconds at the ASRock logo. I already have a SSD so anything to make this thing faster would be icing on this delicious cake.

Is there an option in your bios to disable the ASROCK logo while booting? That can help things. I also make it a point to disable programs from starting when windows boots such as Spotify or Steam or whatever has the option.
 

vocab

Member
What are some easy ways to speed up boot time? Right now while booting it hangs for about 3-5 seconds at the ASRock logo. I already have a SSD so anything to make this thing faster would be icing on this delicious cake.

There's a bunch of options you can simply disable in the bios to speed up boot times. You can disable the logo, but it doesn't change all too much.
 

Kayant

Member
I'm not 100% sure, but I think they've been the same messages. I'm pretty sure it has to be GPU related, since it only occurs while something demanding of the GPU is occurting (games, 3DMark, etc). I'll document the next few times it happens. Maybe it's a Driver issue? I reinstalled the drivers for the GTX 970, but I reinstalled the same one.

My temperatures on my GPU are about 60-65 degrees while in a game, and that was while playing Project Cars with Dota 2 running in the background.

It's not the same PSU as my Alienware X51, I'm now using a Corsair CX600.

Edit: Downloaded BlueScreenView and I'm getting a BSOD 124 error, caused by driver hal.dll

Here's my temperature readings:

CDlmuoB.png
y4r3yvq.png

Looking online it seems like it's hardware related error - http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...e-haldll/c6314f82-1bff-407c-9f37-2b1e08140d31

Is your i5 overclocked?
 
I have the R4. Moderately silent, cool enough if you're not doing serious overclocks or in perpetually hot weather (I have an i5 at 4.0ghz and a GTX 670). Cons? It's inexpensive because it's cheap. The USB 3.0 case ports became faulty after six months and the side panel developed an intermittent buzzing. And for some reason, the holes used to mount the motherboard don't always align with the motherboard itself. This... can be very bad. I was honestly afraid of snapping my motherboard in two during installation.

Oh wow okay that's concerning, due to the stellar reviews I thought the case was very high quality, are you sure you just didn't catch a bad production run?

I don't think it will be much of an issue with good airflow. I think it's more due to the closed off nature of the case and panels that make it harder to cool although you can always remove things like the top mounts covers in R4 for passive cooling vs a quieter system.

The Cooler Master N600 is definitely a big improvement from the earlier cases we saw one thing that could be annoying is accessing the front fan mounts because you have to unscrew the drive cage and the connection module at the front to access it.

In case you haven't seen any videos of the two ;) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ki58wTHvO9E&ab_channel=HardwareCanucks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FdpIrr3JNc&ab_channel=HardwareCanucks

Thanks for the videos, I did watch them before, Hardware Canucks makes really good overviews. Still after watching both I couldn't really decide, both look quite good and I would love a quiet case although I'm not sure if a sound-foamed case would work for me heat-wise. The room can get up to 30°C in summer and as said it can get very dusty too, I'll try to do a positive-pressure setup though as said before.

Why are you even looking at the R4 when the R5 exists?

In my personal opinion the R5 is superior to the N600

The R4 can often be found for a lower price than the R5. It offers the same noise-dampening features for those who aren't interested in or have no use for the modular interior.

As RGM79 said, the R5 is about 30-40€ more expensive here compared to the R4 and that would really overdraw my budget, my initial "want to spend" money was 50-60€, I upped that to 80€ now but I won't pay 110-120€ for a case that's simply too much for a case for me.

I'm having trouble getting my just-built PC to work: all wires are connected and when I hit the power everything turns on for about three seconds before cutting out and starting-up again. I can't get to the BIOS screen. You can see a video I made of this here: https://youtu.be/llhZ6m-CBio

I've checked that my front panel power plugs, motherboard power and CPU power plugs are all connected, reset the CMOS and unplugged the RAM, GPU and hard disk but the problem persists. All components are brand new and I have no idea how to proceed. I'd be really grateful if anyone knows what might be wrong?

That actually looks like something I've experienced before, in my case it was a incompatibility between RAM brand and the mainboard, can you borrow another set to test?
 

RGM79

Member
Oh wow okay that's concerning, due to the stellar reviews I thought the case was very high quality, are you sure you just didn't catch a bad production run?

Thanks for the videos, I did watch them before, Hardware Canucks makes really good overviews. Still after watching both I couldn't really decide, both look quite good and I would love a quiet case although I'm not sure if a sound-foamed case would work for me heat-wise. The room can get up to 30°C in summer and as said it can get very dusty too, I'll try to do a positive-pressure setup though as said before.

As RGM79 said, the R5 is about 30-40€ more expensive here compared to the R4 and that would really overdraw my budget, my initial "want to spend" money was 50-60€, I upped that to 80€ now but I won't pay 110-120€ for a case that's simply too much for a case for me.

I have the Fractal Define R3, which is internally very similar to the R4. I bought the USB 3.0 upgrade kit for it and one of the ports stopped working. I think it was due to physical damage, though. That and my room is very dusty, the upward facing ports filled up with dust easily.

The side panel only buzzes for me if there's a fan mounted on it. I was able to cancel out the buzzing by placing the side of the case against a wall, I guess it changed the airflow to prevent buzzing.

I've used maybe 4 different motherboards in the case and I've never had an issue with mounting and spacing.
 

harSon

Banned

I never tried to overclock my computer Lol, so I'm not sure how it happened. I did notice that the silver ASUS logo on my motherboard was scratched, and suspected that Amazon gave me a previously owned one - so maybe that's the case? I did load default settings on my BIOS prior to your posts, and I haven't received a BSOD since.

How does it look now?

tgGpilL.png
Un8KAm9.png
 

Dartastic

Member
Been looking at a bunch of lists of programs to put on my new PC, and I thought I'd jump in here and ask what the best programs to put on a new PC are. I'd really appreciate some suggestions.

Also, what is the best Windows torrent client? I definitely need one of those...
 

LilJoka

Member
I never tried to overclock my computer Lol, so I'm not sure how it happened. I did notice that the silver ASUS logo on my motherboard was scratched, and suspected that Amazon gave me a previously owned one - so maybe that's the case? I did load default settings on my BIOS prior to your posts, and I haven't received a BSOD since.

How does it look now?

tgGpilL.png
Un8KAm9.png

Much better. See how it goes.
 

harSon

Banned
Much better. See how it goes.

Awesome!

Everything's been running smooth since I did that, so hopefully that's that. My new computer is 100% built then! I just have to purchase some ties/velcro for some cable management. A huge thanks to everyone in this thread who helped me through the process.

Haven't built a computer from the ground up since Radeon 9800 Pros were world class Lol.
 

Saprol

Member
Been looking at a bunch of lists of programs to put on my new PC, and I thought I'd jump in here and ask what the best programs to put on a new PC are. I'd really appreciate some suggestions.

Also, what is the best Windows torrent client? I definitely need one of those...

Ninite has a bunch of staples all stuffed into one. I don't want to think about all the other crap I'll need to remember to install.

I like F.lux to control the lighting during the evening.

http://sourceforge.net/projects/tikione/
This is kind of useful for clearing out all the redistributable stuff Steam makes you install for each game. Although I think you have to run it again if the game updates.

Dunno about best torrent clients. There's two on Ninite. I just use uTorrent 2.2.1 before the updates added the annoying crap.
 

The Kid

Member
Hi all. I am considering upgrading my computer but I am not sure if it is worth doing it now given my needs. As background, a friend of mine helped me build my computer back in 2011. I upgraded the computer with my current graphics cards and more ram in 2013. My current specs are below. Right now I am mainly using my computer to play my backlog of last gen games and kickstarter RPGs. However, I do want to play Witcher 3 on my computer (and the other upcoming games) and am not sure how well set up my computer is for that. Is it worth upgrading right now? My budget would be below $1000. Thanks!

CPU: i5 2500K LGA 1155
Motherboard: MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA P67 ATX
RAM: 16 GB DDR3
GPU: 7970 3072MB
Hard drive: 1TB (not SSD)
Case: cooler master HAF 922
Power: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX 750 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Bronze (TX750)
 

RGM79

Member
Hi all. I am considering upgrading my computer but I am not sure if it is worth doing it now given my needs. As background, a friend of mine helped me build my computer back in 2011. I upgraded the computer with my current graphics cards and more ram in 2013. My current specs are below. Right now I am mainly using my computer to play my backlog of last gen games and kickstarter RPGs. However, I do want to play Witcher 3 on my computer (and the other upcoming games) and am not sure how well set up my computer is for that. Is it worth upgrading right now? My budget would be below $1000. Thanks!

CPU: i5 2500K LGA 1155
Motherboard: MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA P67 ATX
RAM: 16 GB DDR3
GPU: 7970 3072MB
Hard drive: 1TB (not SSD)
Case: cooler master HAF 922
Power: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX 750 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Bronze (TX750)

Your processor is fine, especially if you overclock it. If you really wanted to upgrade the graphics card you could do that, though. The 7970 is about the same as the R9 280X which isn't bad for 1080p gameplay, but if you were looking for 60FPS and/or higher settings, you could get a new graphics card.
 

The Kid

Member
Your processor is fine, especially if you overclock it. If you really wanted to upgrade the graphics card you could do that, though. The 7970 is about the same as the R9 280X which isn't bad for 1080p gameplay, but if you were looking for 60FPS and/or higher settings, you could get a new graphics card.

I am fine with high (as compared to very high settings). Can I play Witcher 3 and similar games better on my current PC than on my PS4? If so, I should probably wait until much better cards are cheaper.
 
Hi all. I am considering upgrading my computer but I am not sure if it is worth doing it now given my needs. As background, a friend of mine helped me build my computer back in 2011. I upgraded the computer with my current graphics cards and more ram in 2013. My current specs are below. Right now I am mainly using my computer to play my backlog of last gen games and kickstarter RPGs. However, I do want to play Witcher 3 on my computer (and the other upcoming games) and am not sure how well set up my computer is for that. Is it worth upgrading right now? My budget would be below $1000. Thanks!

CPU: i5 2500K LGA 1155
Motherboard: MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA P67 ATX
RAM: 16 GB DDR3
GPU: 7970 3072MB
Hard drive: 1TB (not SSD)
Case: cooler master HAF 922
Power: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX 750 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Bronze (TX750)

I wouldn't upgrade right now, maybe this fall instead, after the new amd/nvidia releases. OC your CPU if you haven't already. The 7970 should be OK with the witcher if you turn down the settings.
 

Riposte

Member
The Corsair Vengeance RAM is large enough that it may interfere with the cooler and is overpriced for the speed. I'd get this 2x4GB kit of G.Skill Ripjaws X 2133MHz RAM for $53 instead, it represents better performance for lower cost, and should fit next to the cooler more easily. For low profile RAM that definitely won't interfere with the cooler, look at Kingston Fury, Corsair LP, or G.Skill Ares RAM. There are a number of cheaper and faster kits than that Vengeance Pro 1866MHz kit for $68.

Personally I wouldn't go with Seagate hard drives these days, they have a poor reputation. I can't speak for that particular model's failure rate because most of Seagate's high failure rates I think come from other hard drive models. For just a few dollars more, I personally prefer WD Blue ($49 for 1TB) or Toshiba drives ($48 for 1TB).

Right now the EVGA GTX 980 FTW for $521 is a better deal than the MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G. It's faster or equal in most areas. If you don't mind spending a bit more, then the flagship EVGA GTX 980 Classified is going for $575 right now. Seems expensive, but it used to cost $650~700.

It's just me, but I'd look for a power supply other than the Corsair RM line. They're geared for low noise which is nice, but they aren't exactly high quality for the price. If you prefer very low noise then it's totally fine to go with an Corsair RM series power supply. My usual recommendation is the EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt ($50), a fairly great bronze rated semi-modular PSU that is good quality, well-built, and is very competitive price-wise. Otherwise if you care for low noise, you could get the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model for $95 which is just a bit more than the Corsair RM750's $90 price tag. It might not be as quiet as the Corsair RM, but it still offers a low noise eco mode and higher quality internal components as well as also being gold rated and fully modular.

Thanks so much. This has been a big help.
 

RGM79

Member
I am fine with high (as compared to very high settings). Can I play Witcher 3 and similar games better on my current PC than on my PS4? If so, I should probably wait until much better cards are cheaper.

You should be just fine, I'd say According to Techspot's benchmarking at 1080p high quality, the 7970/R9 280X was capable of 30FPS. If you drop down to medium settings, you can get 60FPS.

Eurogamer says that to surpass console quality settings at 60FPS or better, a GTX 970 or similar is needed. Seeing as the GTX 970 gets ~77 FPS on medium settings according to the Techspot benchmarking, it seems that generally speaking, PC medium settings would be equal or better than console quality settings.
 

The Kid

Member
Thanks everyone for your help! I guess I'll wait until the fall or winter to upgrade. Seems like that the best way to maximize my bang for my buck.
 

Arken2121

Member
Hey guys, just found out my PSU fried so i'm looking for a new one. Anyone recommend one that has 2 6-pin PCI-E slots around 700-850 watts?
 
Could anyone recommend a Motherboard for me? I have no idea what to look for and what makes a $150+ motherboard better than something that costs $100 or so.

I'm looking for an LGA 1150 MB and will be using an I5-4590 CPU. I'd like to spend preferably under $130 or so for it, but I'll spend a little more if it means I get more quality.
 

RGM79

Member
Could anyone recommend a Motherboard for me? I have no idea what to look for and what makes a $150+ motherboard better than something that costs $100 or so.

I'm looking for an LGA 1150 MB and will be using an I5-4590 CPU. I'd like to spend preferably under $130 or so for it, but I'll spend a little more if it means I get more quality.

What kind of quality are you looking for? You can get away with spending around $50 on a H81 or B85 motherboard. Performance-wise, there's little to differentiate those from an H97 model motherboard. H97 would just have more support for features like M.2 devices or more USB ports.

If you mean you want something reliable and solid, then I would look at user reviews more than anything else. If a motherboard has a lot of negative reviews stating common defects, it'd be worth avoiding. I don't necessarily think that H97/Z97 is less likely to have defects than H81/B85, but it seems that more expensive motherboards may go through more stringent quality control checking.
 
What kind of quality are you looking for? You can get away with spending around $50 on a H81 or B85 motherboard. Performance-wise, there's little to differentiate those from an H97 model motherboard. H97 would just have more support for features like M.2 devices or more USB ports.

If you mean you want something reliable and solid, then I would look at user reviews more than anything else. If a motherboard has a lot of negative reviews stating common defects, it'd be worth avoiding. I don't necessarily think that H97/Z97 is less likely to have defects than H81/B85, but it seems that more expensive motherboards may go through more stringent quality control checking.
By quality I meant something that won't break down in a year, or something that is backed with good Customer Service.

Would something like this work without issues?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K23BW70/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 

yami4ct

Member
Alright guys, I'm having a really weird problem with my new PC. Everything is working great, except one small issue. From cold boot in the morning, I always have to try two times to get it to go.

Basically, the first time the fans start up, I hear the hard drive go on and all the lights except the power LED come on, but I get no video and the system won't boot. After I turn it off and try again, it works perfectly. Any idea what's causing this? I've tried reaseating all the power cables and got no fix and I don't think it's the PS itself is the issue, because it worked perfectly in my old PC. I've also tried updating the BIOS to no avail.

My specs are
Asus Z97-E
i5 4690k
EVGA SSC GTX 970
750w PS
8 GB DDR3
an SSD and a regular drive.
All stock settings, no user applied OC

I was thinking maybe it was something weird with Asus' AI charger that charges devices when they're off drawing too much out of my PS or something, but I can't find any real mention of an issue like that online. Any thoughts? The PC works perfectly when it does boots. I've put at least 12 hours of graphically intensive gameplay in on it and have had no hiccups and temps all look good. The no power LED on that hangup boot part is the thing that has me really flummoxed. Could that mean it's a MoBo issue? If so, what exactly might be causing it? It's a really minor annoyance, but I'm a bit afraid that the problem may get worse over time and I won't be able to RMA whatever part is at fault. It only happens on cold boots when it's been off at least 8 hours. Reboots in that time work perfectly.
 
Hey guys, I need some advice. I just bought a new GTX 960 and I have a couple of doubts. First thing comes from a bad experience that I had with my last graphics card. Due to my apartment being really old it sometimes suffers from blackouts whenever I use two or more devices with high resistance at the same time (microwave and washing machine for example) so I decided to get a UPS. I'm gonna buy a cheap one, the APC RS-500 230V, and I wanted to know if I should know something before hand about it, such as compatibilty with my current power supply which is a Corsair CX600M.
On the same page, I wanted to know if said power supply is enough to power my GTX 960 without any problems. To give you a full idea of my PC specs:

-i5 3570k
-6 GB RAM
-4 Fans

Is my power supply enough for all of this or should I consider a new one?
 

magnumpy

Member
Hey guys, I need some advice. I just bought a new GTX 960 and I have a couple of doubts. First thing comes from a bad experience that I had with my last graphics card. Due to my apartment being really old it sometimes suffers from blackouts whenever I use two or more devices with high resistance at the same time (microwave and washing machine for example) so I decided to get a UPS. I'm gonna buy a cheap one, the APC RS-500 230V, and I wanted to know if I should know something before hand about it, such as compatibilty with my current power supply which is a Corsair CX600M.
On the same page, I wanted to know if said power supply is enough to power my GTX 960 without any problems. To give you a full idea of my PC specs:

-i5 3570k
-6 GB RAM
-4 Fans

Is my power supply enough for all of this or should I consider a new one?

ups are only designed to allow for a controlled shutdown. if your power goes out, you need to turn everything off. even a high end ups can only provide power for a few minutes.
 

RGM79

Member
By quality I meant something that won't break down in a year, or something that is backed with good Customer Service.

Would something like this work without issues?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K23BW70/?tag=neogaf0e-20

It will work just fine with your i5 4590 processor. Z97 is meant to be paired with a K series overclocking processor though, because of the extended overclocking support that Z97 motherboards usually offer. Some H97 motherboards should be cheaper while offering similar quality.

I can't guarantee all motherboards won't have issues, though. All companies have some level of failure rate on their motherboards. In your case, I would suggest sticking with larger brands like Gigabyte or Asus, although MSI shouldn't be that bad.

If you want something tested and proven, Gigabyte does offer a line of black Z97 motherboards that they advertised to have undergone an entire week's worth of "server" grade testing. Their cheapest model from that line is the UD3H-BK model which is $130 at the lowest. I'm not sure if Asus or other motherboard manufacturers offer anything similar.
 

Quote

Member
A buddy got a Samsung S32D850T and I kind of fell in love with it, even the physical quality of it.

Does anyone have any experience with it, or any 1440p monitor, particularly with a 4790k and a GTX 970? Would it be too hard to drive at full res for modern games? I guess worst case I could always run more difficult things at 720p.
 
Do you have a budget in mind? It'll probably be best to come back in a few months to see what the processor and graphics card situation is like, we'll be seeing new releases of both over the next month or three.
If I would buy the PC today, it'll be probably around 950 EUR (mainland EU here).
Z97-based MBO (Asrock Z97 Pro 4), i5-4690K, Hyper 212 Evo, 8GB RAM, a GTX 970 (not sure which one, probably Gigabyte or MSI, somewhere around 400 EUR).
That's purely based on my own rig (Z87, 4670K, GTX 970) which eats everything I give it at 1080p (gaming on a TV).

I'm looking forward to see what AMD has to show with 3xx series, maybe that'll change the tide for them (HBM and all).
As far as CPU/MBO combo goes, I guess it would be wise to wait for Skylake? Especially if it comes in Aug/Sep as the rumors suggest:
Chinese tech site Benchlife revealed the timetable, saying the first version, Skylake S for unlocked desktop applications (Core i7-6700K and the Core i5-6600K) will be released between August and September 2015 replacing the Haswell processors.
 

RGM79

Member
If I would buy the PC today, it'll be probably around 950 EUR (mainland EU here).
Z97-based MBO (Asrock Z97 Pro 4), i5-4690K, Hyper 212 Evo, 8GB RAM, a GTX 970 (not sure which one, probably Gigabyte or MSI, somewhere around 400 EUR).
That's purely based on my own rig (Z87, 4670K, GTX 970) which eats everything I give it at 1080p (gaming on a TV).

I'm looking forward to see what AMD has to show with 3xx series, maybe that'll change the tide for them (HBM and all).
As far as CPU/MBO combo goes, I guess it would be wise to wait for Skylake? Especially if it comes in Aug/Sep as the rumors suggest:
Chinese tech site Benchlife revealed the timetable, saying the first version, Skylake S for unlocked desktop applications (Core i7-6700K and the Core i5-6600K) will be released between August and September 2015 replacing the Haswell processors.

Broadwell is also coming to existing socket 1150 motherboards, and is meant to be overclockable and used with Z97 motherboards. But yeah, I'm hoping Skylake will bring more to the table than just minor performance increases.
 

neoxdonut

Member
Currently working on my first PC build, I've got a 600W PSU and am looking to replace my old "Asus GeForce GTX 650 1GB Video Card" but don't know what to go with any ideas?

I'll mostly be using this PC for college work and gaming/streaming and a bit of editing in sony vegas/ Photoshop.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.60 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $563.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-25 02:06 EDT-0400
 

Kayant

Member
Currently working on my first PC build, I've got a 600W PSU and am looking to replace my old "Asus GeForce GTX 650 1GB Video Card" but don't know what to go with any ideas?

I'll mostly be using this PC for college work and gaming/streaming and a bit of editing in sony vegas/ Photoshop.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.60 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $563.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-25 02:06 EDT-0400

What PSU is it?
Budget?
In terms of gaming what kind of settings are u looking to run at what resolution and framerate
 
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