You could just leave game mode on if you like the way it looks. No reason you HAVE to switch. Really comes down to personal preference. And the Xbox one s is a really good uhd player. I thought about picking up the Samsung uhd player but decided the xbone will do just fine until I come up with the 500 bucks I need for oppo's new uhd player. As for digital clean and high dynamic contrast its a matter of taste. Digital clean view does a nice job on SD content but I rarely ever watch anything in SD anymore. As for the dynamic contrast, I don't like how unnatural it makes everything look on my 9000. But my buddy loves it, and he runs his back light at 15 all the time and hates movie setting. He uses natural exclusively. He has a 65 inch curved model. He bitches about my screen being too dark and I badger his ass about needing sunglasses to watch a movie. It all comes down to what you like. No matter what someone says, it's your Boob tube. By all means set it up to what you think looks beautiful. You can always reset the picture settings and as long as you stay out of the service menu (which you would have to actively seek out) you can't really fuck anything up permanently. Have fun with it. It's just TV. Maybe the most beautiful TV I have ever seen in person (both technologically and aesthetically), but a Boob tube nonetheless.
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
You could just leave game mode on if you like the way it looks. No reason you HAVE to switch. Really comes down to personal preference. And the Xbox one s is a really good uhd player. I thought about picking up the Samsung uhd player but decided the xbone will do just fine until I come up with the 500 bucks I need for oppo's new uhd player. As for digital clean and high dynamic contrast its a matter of taste. Digital clean view does a nice job on SD content but I rarely ever watch anything in SD anymore. As for the dynamic contrast, I don't like how unnatural it makes everything look on my 9000. But my buddy loves it, and he runs his back light at 15 all the time and hates movie setting. He uses natural exclusively. He has a 65 inch curved model. He bitches about my screen being too dark and I badger his ass about needing sunglasses to watch a movie. It all comes down to what you like. No matter what someone says, it's your Boob tube. By all means set it up to what you think looks beautiful. You can always reset the picture settings and as long as you stay out of the service menu (which you would have to actively seek out) you can't really fuck anything up permanently. Have fun with it. It's just TV. Maybe the most beautiful TV I have ever seen in person (both technologically and aesthetically), but a Boob tube nonetheless.
I get this too. Very annoying but only get it when watching Sky Sports News or football / fast paced action.
No settings will fix this, seems to be an inherent limitation of the TV. Disappointing for the price.
Traxtech
Member
Is the input lag crazy bad with interpolation on? I tend to like the soap opera effect to give me fake 120hz feeling but apparently the input is over 100ms with it on. Can someone with the TV that is sensitive to input lag test this, as I want to jump on one but am unsure
Thank you in advance, I current have a Sony w800c and permanently have film mode on (jitter delete) and smoothness on 2 or 3 so I'd like to get something along those lines
Thank you in advance, I current have a Sony w800c and permanently have film mode on (jitter delete) and smoothness on 2 or 3 so I'd like to get something along those lines
d.cay
Neo Member
Since I digged into the whole settings- and HDR-stuff, I thought it might be helpful for some people if I wrote it down in a single post. I own the German model KS7090, which equivalent in the US should be the KS8000. There is a splendid post in a German forum on how to set up a Samsung-TV, which settings to avoid and so on, here is a link: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-151-28898.html . The following information is based on that, mixed with own tests and other sources. There is no guarantee that it is 100 % accurate but it could give you a valuable headstart on how to get the best out of your new TV.
First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other people’s settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesn’t mean that there aren’t some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.
Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you won’t miss the old crap one bit.
Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you won’t miss a thing from SDR!
In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I won’t go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.
Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.
Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine
Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.
Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.
Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.
Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default
Edit: Additional information from Aske, thank you!
Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: I’ve read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.
Edit: Another additional information from Aske.
Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.
Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)
Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.
Auto Motion Plus: Custom
I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking “Soap Opera Effect”. If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.
Additionaly, you can test for artifacts in the judder-test-videos of this guy on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/user/BitPusher321 .
Focus on the edges of the screen and test, whether you see black pixelation/ tearing, something like that (I don't know what to call it exactly ^^). If you do and it bothers you, then reduce the Judder Reduction. Try it with game mode OFF though, since Auto Motion Plus is not available in that mode, as far as I know.
Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.
HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.
HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). I’ve tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!
Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, don’t worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you can’t stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.
White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And don’t worry, you don’t have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
Gamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1
RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively
Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.
I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!
Edit: test-image is now in 4k. Added additional information from other user, thank you!
Edit #2: in parts changed and added information in the Auto Motion Plus-section.
First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other people’s settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesn’t mean that there aren’t some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.
Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you won’t miss the old crap one bit.
Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you won’t miss a thing from SDR!
In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I won’t go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.
Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.
Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine
Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.
Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.
Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.
Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default
Edit: Additional information from Aske, thank you!
Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: I’ve read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.
Edit: Another additional information from Aske.
Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.
Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)
Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.
Auto Motion Plus: Custom
- Blur Reduction: 10
- Judder Reduction: 1-3
- LED Clear Motion: Off
I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking “Soap Opera Effect”. If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.
Additionaly, you can test for artifacts in the judder-test-videos of this guy on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/user/BitPusher321 .
Focus on the edges of the screen and test, whether you see black pixelation/ tearing, something like that (I don't know what to call it exactly ^^). If you do and it bothers you, then reduce the Judder Reduction. Try it with game mode OFF though, since Auto Motion Plus is not available in that mode, as far as I know.
Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.
HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.
HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). I’ve tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!
Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, don’t worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you can’t stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.
White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And don’t worry, you don’t have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
- 2 Point:
This adjusts two ranges of brightness, the darker one (Offset) and the brighter one (Gain), separate for each color-channel red, green and blue. Start with the Gain-settings since they are more visible. Here, firstly focus on the Red and Blue-Gains, Green can have side-effects. I personally have just changed R-Gain and B-Gain for now, maybe I will put some more time into it in the future. So, load up the test image and adjust the R-Gain and then the B-Gain. The aim is a perfectly white background while keeping the skin tone of the women natural. A light warm touch in the whites is acceptable too. To get rid of a red cast it might be necessary to dial down the R-Gain or turning up the B-Gain, or a combination. Don’t get carried away though but try values in the range of +/- 10, or 15 tops. I for example settled (at the moment) with the following values, the rest being 0:
- R-Gain: -5
- B-Gain: 7
But again: don’t copy them but try to get it right for YOUR panel, it is worth it!
- 10 Point: Off
Unless you are an expert (why are you reading this then? and/or have calibration tools, don’t bother adjusting the 10 point setting
and/or have calibration tools, don’t bother adjusting the 10 point settingGamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1
RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively
Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.
I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!
Edit: test-image is now in 4k. Added additional information from other user, thank you!
Edit #2: in parts changed and added information in the Auto Motion Plus-section.
Rbk_3
Member
My KS8000 keeps changing its input names back to HDMI 3, HDMI 4 etc for my PS4 and PC. The auto rename stopped working after working fine for 3 months, so I renamed them myself, but it keeps switching them back. My cable box is still set up fine, however.
I tried switching the HDMI cables to different ports, but it didn't auto recognize like it did when I first set up the TV.
Anyone have any ideas?
I tried switching the HDMI cables to different ports, but it didn't auto recognize like it did when I first set up the TV.
Anyone have any ideas?
I love Digital Clean View. Leave it off for the most accurate picture - if you want to see things like all the film grain you're intended to see - but turn it on if you find the grain distracting. I personally do, especially on Netflix Marvel shows in which it's an effect that's added to the digital video to simulate the look of film. This won't get rid of the grain completely, but it dials it back to less distracting levels. I prefer it on for all content (it's disabled in Game mode); other people just like to turn it on when watching lower quality content.
Dynamic Contrast is a different matter. If you turn it on because you like the way it looks, be aware that you're losing fine details in brighter and darker areas due to crushed whites and blacks. You might also see the TV adjusting its contrast on the fly. That's the reason everybody advises turning DC off. If you want more pop without hurting the integrity of the picture, turn up your backlight.
Since I digged into the whole settings- and HDR-stuff, I thought it might be helpful for some people if I wrote it down in a single post. I own the German model KS7090, which equivalent in the US should be the KS8000. There is a splendid post in a German forum on how to set up a Samsung-TV, which settings to avoid and so on, here is a link: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-151-28898.html . The following information is based on that, mixed with own tests and other sources. There is no guarantee that it is 100 % accurate but it could give you a valuable headstart on how to get the best out of your new TV.
First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other peoples settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesnt mean that there arent some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.
Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (http://www.upload-pictures.de/bild.php/88036,buroschfirstcheckgermanS2JY9.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you wont miss the old crap one bit.
Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you wont miss a thing from SDR!
In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I wont go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.
Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.
Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine
Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.
Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.
Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.
Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default
Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: Ive read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.
Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.
Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)
Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.
Auto Motion Plus: Custom
- Blur Reduction: 10
- Judder Reduction: 5
- LED Clear Motion: Off
I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking Soap Opera Effect. If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.
Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.
HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.
HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). Ive tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!
Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, dont worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you cant stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.
White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( http://www.upload-pictures.de/bild.php/88036,buroschfirstcheckgermanS2JY9.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And dont worry, you dont have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
- 2 Point:
This adjusts two ranges of brightness, the darker one (Offset) and the brighter one (Gain), separate for each color-channel red, green and blue. Start with the Gain-settings since they are more visible. Here, firstly focus on the Red and Blue-Gains, Green can have side-effects. I personally have just changed R-Gain and B-Gain for now, maybe I will put some more time into it in the future. So, load up the test image and adjust the R-Gain and then the B-Gain. The aim is a perfectly white background while keeping the skin tone of the women natural. A light warm touch in the whites is acceptable too. To get rid of a red cast it might be necessary to dial down the R-Gain or turning up the B-Gain, or a combination. Dont get carried away though but try values in the range of +/- 10, or 15 tops. I for example settled (at the moment) with the following values, the rest being 0:
- R-Gain: -5
- B-Gain: 7
But again: dont copy them but try to get it right for YOUR panel, it is worth it!
- 10 Point: Off
Unless you are an expert (why are you reading this then?
Gamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1
RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively
Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.
I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!
This is an awesome post. I'd add that using calibration test images to nail the best brightness and contrast settings for each source is important: some of us found our whites were crushed with Contrast at 100 (I have it set to 93 for all inputs, per test images), and while Brightness at 45 is perfect for my Pro and S, my Apple TV needs it set to 43.
Also, some of us have found that the usual wisdom of setting Sharpness to 0 actually softens the image on this TV. If in doubt, find some test patterns and double check your set. When I did so, I found my picture was artificially softened with Sharpness at 0. Mine is now set to 20 and displays absolutely no ringing. Others have described ringing as low as 5, and as high as 30. Jury's still out on why this would be, but check for yourself with a basic sharpening test image.
There was some debate earlier about whether Warm 2 is more accurate than Warm 1. The Xbone S calibration suggests using Warm 1, and I personally find that to be the right choice. There was some discussion earlier in the thread about the accuracy of certain "old wisdom" used by calibrators that doesn't account for changing standards in the film, TV, and game industries. Suffice to say I felt listening to the content creators (Xbone S) was the most sensible choice, and though I felt Warm 2 looked great because my old TV was calibrated with a similar look, I do feel the picture looks most natural with Warm 1. That being said, I haven't messed with the White Balance settings! Possibly Warm 1 is best if leaving these at their defaults, while Warm 2 is best if you take the time to calibrate your White Balance?
And just for fun, I'll add that my Gamma is set to 0, and my Smart LED is set to High for all content. If you notice weird "column of light" effects, set this to Low. I've personally never seen the column of light, and the benefit of Smart LED is that it's very effective at compensating for LCD technology's inherent issues like light bleed. Regardless, it should always be set High for HDR content, just like the Backlight setting should be at 20.
Thanks aske and d.cay. Outstanding posts. Special thanks to you guys respectively for suggesting the warm 1 setting and the file to calibrate white gain. I have never used the xbone's calibration since I have the dve disc. After trying warm 1 and swapping back and forth I'll be damned if it doesn't look pretty good. Gonna go ahead and check out the xbone's calibration doodad.
The 55" KS7000 is £899 at Richer Sounds and John LEwis at the moment. £50 cheaper than it was on Black Friday.
Also, I posted earlier about my UK7/USK8000 losing picture repeatedly. Turns out it my Xbox One was dying.
I also had a weird red/blue separation on both Xbox ONe and PS4, both in game and Netflix. When it happened, it looked a bit like this; imagine the stickman moving and the blue and red shadowing him and warping as he does.
I know someone else posted a picture of Mario and the colours separating, but it seemed slightly different. I'm not sure if its related to setting the consoles to full RGB or not, which I think has been happening to other people.
I set the PS4 to auto everything last night and played Uncharted 4 for three hours without issue and also watched Netflix without any problem. Hopefully that stops it. EDIT - I also used a new hDMI cable, but that's just one I ordered when I thought it was causing the Xbox issues. I imagine that's by-the-by.
Also, I posted earlier about my UK7/USK8000 losing picture repeatedly. Turns out it my Xbox One was dying.
I also had a weird red/blue separation on both Xbox ONe and PS4, both in game and Netflix. When it happened, it looked a bit like this; imagine the stickman moving and the blue and red shadowing him and warping as he does.
I know someone else posted a picture of Mario and the colours separating, but it seemed slightly different. I'm not sure if its related to setting the consoles to full RGB or not, which I think has been happening to other people.
I set the PS4 to auto everything last night and played Uncharted 4 for three hours without issue and also watched Netflix without any problem. Hopefully that stops it. EDIT - I also used a new hDMI cable, but that's just one I ordered when I thought it was causing the Xbox issues. I imagine that's by-the-by.
xCaptainCanadax
Member
Yeah mine does this for raspberry pi that I have connected. I renamed it and changed the icon and then a couple days later it changed it back to HDMI 4 at which I then realized I didnt care enough to look into it. If theres a fix though Id love to know
The 55" KS7000 is £899 at Richer Sounds and John LEwis at the moment. £50 cheaper than it was on Black Friday.
Also, I posted earlier about my UK7/USK8000 losing picture repeatedly. Turns out it my Xbox One was dying.
I also had a weird red/blue separation on both Xbox ONe and PS4, both in game and Netflix. When it happened, it looked a bit like this; imagine the stickman moving and the blue and red shadowing him and warping as he does.
I know someone else posted a picture of Mario and the colours separating, but it seemed slightly different. I'm not sure if its related to setting the consoles to full RGB or not, which I think has been happening to other people.
I set the PS4 to auto everything last night and played Uncharted 4 for three hours without issue and also watched Netflix without any problem. Hopefully that stops it. EDIT - I also used a new hDMI cable, but that's just one I ordered when I thought it was causing the Xbox issues. I imagine that's by-the-by.
Good to see this post. Had the same issues when i put the ps4 pro in auto mode. Issues are gone after I forced 2160p YUV.
You also have the issue with your Xbox one? Is it an s model? I cant find the settings about limited or full rgb in Xbox one menu.
I think it stopped for me when I put it on auto on the PS4 and auto on the TV. I'm not sure how to force YUV. etc. But I also used a new HDMI cable with the PS4, which is 2.1 rather than 2.0. No idea if that makes a difference.
I didn't make a note of the settings at the time, but I was tinkering with the colourdepth etc in both the Xbox and PS4 when I noticed it. That's why I think I'd set both consoles to full RGB, but I can't be sure.
It was a standard Xbox One, 500gb 'Go' bundle. Came with the refreshed controller featuring the 3.5mm jack. The colour options were in video and display, I think. It had options for 8bit 10bit and 12bit colour and standard and full RGB, IIRC.
Bit of a minefield this TV.
Are you on the latest firmware? I don't think this was an issue until very recently, at least for me. Makes me think it's just a problem with the latest firmware or two. Hopefully it's corrected.
I get it in Automatic on PS4 Pro.
Your previous posts are what made me hope it was a FW issue. I think I'm on 1154. I assume 1155 isn't out yet in the UK otherwise it the TV would have downloaded it.
I'll post if there's any change (and try to remember to note settings).
Definitely try to get some visibility on the issue in the Samsung forums to be sure they're at least aware of it. You've done a good job at detailing the problem. Had it happen in game last night for a split second, actually.
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5/TVs/bd-p/tv
Not sure if there's a similar thing for Samsung UK.
Need some help guys! Just got home with a KS800D (Costco variant of the KS8000, no other difference) and hooked it up via the breakout box to my standard PS4 and Xbox one and have these terrible scan lines everywhere! I'm using the HDMI cables that came with each system respectively and made sure all the connections are solid. I'm at a loss and will return this asap if necessary! Was looking forward to getting some solid holiday gaming in!
You just plugged them straight into the TV and that's what you get? Get it replaced. The good news is, you know Costco will give you no hassles.
Yup! Already returned that one and grabbed a new one. Fingers crossed this time!
Posted about the red/blue color separation problem in the Samsung forums if anyone wants to throw in their two cents.
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...-blue-color-separation-in-Game-Mode/m-p/52192
The more the better.
Try a different browser if that link isn't working, by the way. Their site is awful.
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...-blue-color-separation-in-Game-Mode/m-p/52192
The more the better.
Try a different browser if that link isn't working, by the way. Their site is awful.
THe EU forum is a ghost town, but here's a thread:
https://eu.community.samsung.com/t5...-Discussed-on-forum-with-260k/m-p/145811#M342
https://eu.community.samsung.com/t5...-Discussed-on-forum-with-260k/m-p/145811#M342
I've got the Sony x8509c and when watching sky Q every now and then there would be this judder just like your describing. Sony and sky worked together and a firmware update was released at the end of September to fix the issue. Beforehand the way to fix it was by simply turning the TV off for 5 seconds. Not ideal but it did fix the issue.
Lakerchick4life
Member
For those who have this TV and a Wii U I have a question..so I just went ahead and plugged in my Wii U, everything is fine..except under the HDMI port it shows it as "Game Console" and when the Wii U is turned OFF the "Game Console" HDMI port greys out..not sure why..as my XBOX ONE S and TV are both not greyed out..I have the Wii U under HDMI port 4 as I am going to put my PS4 PRO on HDMI 3 so I skipped over it for now not sure if that is the reason why..I thought maybe I should rename the "Game Console" as Wii U but wasn't sure if that was OK to do
Evolved1
make sure the pudding isn't too soggy but that just ruins everything
So I'm playing NieR on a PS3 and something seems wrong. Problem is that I don't really know what it's supposed to look like... right now there is a really obnoxious effect around the text. It's white text on a dark background, and I guess the text is meant to blur, but it's super pixelated. I mean, like it's just fat, white pixels all throughout the blur. Sorry, no image to share.
Idk... just seems wrong. Like the television isn't playing nice with the PS3.
Not sure what to do, wondering if any of you folks have had issues with a PS3.
I wil try and take a picture... I know my description is awful. lol
EDIT: I checked a lets play on youtube, and the pixelation is not there.
The TV is screwing it up somehow. What can I adjust?
Idk... just seems wrong. Like the television isn't playing nice with the PS3.
Not sure what to do, wondering if any of you folks have had issues with a PS3.
I wil try and take a picture... I know my description is awful. lol
EDIT: I checked a lets play on youtube, and the pixelation is not there.
The TV is screwing it up somehow. What can I adjust?
Don't know if its someone from here, but a person replied to Heel's post on the Samsung forum with a link and a picture to a thread discussing it on avsforum. CLick on the thumbnail in the link. They say Samsung recommended taking it out of game mode and they were able to watch an HDR movie without issue for two hours. All PS4 settings set to auto:
"Hi this happens to me too whilst playing games on the PS4 pro and the original ps4. Here is a link to a avforums thread that shows the issue post #8444 of 17955. This has been happening on the last three of 4 firmares and im currently on the latest.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...00-ks8500-owners-thread-282.html#post47191969 "
"Hi this happens to me too whilst playing games on the PS4 pro and the original ps4. Here is a link to a avforums thread that shows the issue post #8444 of 17955. This has been happening on the last three of 4 firmares and im currently on the latest.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...00-ks8500-owners-thread-282.html#post47191969 "
Yeah, I just saw that. I don't know how they can think "take it out of game mode" is a real solution, haha.
A little troubling that he's had this problem for a few months, but with him saying "3 of 4 firmwares" gives me hope that it's a firmware problem and not an inherent problem with the television.
teacupcopter
Banned
Just bought the 8000 here in Australia on our Boxing Day Sale, so managed to avoid somewhat the "living in Australia" tax. Yay!
I will be getting a PS4 Pro when I can find a good deal on it, but for now I will be hooking up a
PS3
Wii U
PS4 Normal
Xbox 360 (maybe)
up to it.
A few questions
1. I know this seems ridiculous but anything I need to know outside of a normal, HD TV? HDR/4K/etc. Things people miss?
2. Any difference in cables? Like I can just use my existing HDMI Cables?
3. I've inherited a Sonos Playbar from a brother in law who moved overseas, is it easy enough to set up with this TV?
4. Is there a point to getting a Chromecast Ultra? I have Netflix and the Aussie service of Amazon Prime Video. I know there is not a huge amount of content in 4K but I'd like to be able to use it.
5. FINALLY, this is a bit of a console wars question but the Xbox One S has a 4K Blu Ray player, I've literally done NO research into this as physical media is not really how I'm rolling unless it's a better deal, I'd rather just stream. But it's cheaper than most of the 4K blu ray players standalone anyway! It's annoying the PS4 Pro doesn't have the player to be honest. Is it a good player, does it offer any other benefit on top of Samsungs apps (ie will samsung's smart tv app for netflix stream 4K just as well as xbox one S) and to be honest... is there a list of console exclusives on xbox one I've missed? Because I've got a decent PC and a PS4 and I'm struggling to think of games I'm missing on other than Sunset Overdrive.
I will be getting a PS4 Pro when I can find a good deal on it, but for now I will be hooking up a
PS3
Wii U
PS4 Normal
Xbox 360 (maybe)
up to it.
A few questions
1. I know this seems ridiculous but anything I need to know outside of a normal, HD TV? HDR/4K/etc. Things people miss?
2. Any difference in cables? Like I can just use my existing HDMI Cables?
3. I've inherited a Sonos Playbar from a brother in law who moved overseas, is it easy enough to set up with this TV?
4. Is there a point to getting a Chromecast Ultra? I have Netflix and the Aussie service of Amazon Prime Video. I know there is not a huge amount of content in 4K but I'd like to be able to use it.
5. FINALLY, this is a bit of a console wars question but the Xbox One S has a 4K Blu Ray player, I've literally done NO research into this as physical media is not really how I'm rolling unless it's a better deal, I'd rather just stream. But it's cheaper than most of the 4K blu ray players standalone anyway! It's annoying the PS4 Pro doesn't have the player to be honest. Is it a good player, does it offer any other benefit on top of Samsungs apps (ie will samsung's smart tv app for netflix stream 4K just as well as xbox one S) and to be honest... is there a list of console exclusives on xbox one I've missed? Because I've got a decent PC and a PS4 and I'm struggling to think of games I'm missing on other than Sunset Overdrive.
Yes, two things. Hit "input settings" and switch UHD HDMI on for UHD inputs. Only other thing is a quirk with HDR: this TV auto-switches to HDR settings (use your usual settings, but with the backlight set to 20) when it detects HDR content. Right now, the auto switch won't happen if the TV's set to Game Mode. For HDR in Game Mode, be sure to turn your backlight to full power manually.
You can for your current devices, but 4K content needs higher quality HDMI cables. Don't worry though: just be sure to always use the cables that come with your new 4K devices.
Yep, plug and play. Optical input, right? Just set your TV to output over optical in your audio settings.
Can't help you with that one, hopefully someone else can chime in.
Trust me, any excuse you can find to get a UHD BD player, do it. 4K Blu-rays are the best looking content you can feed your TV by a significant margin. This is not like Netflix HD vs 1080p Blu-ray. I was also irritated the PS4 Pro didn't play 4K discs, and that pushed me to pick up an Sbone. From what I've read it's a shade less good than Samsung's standalone UHD BD player (I forget in what ways, but nothing significant), but still more than adequate; and the price and ability to play games makes it the best choice for most people.
I had the exact same question. For me, Gears 4 was essential (also an HDR showpiece), Gears Ultimate, and Killer Instinct. Forza's huge if you like racing games. Sunset Overdrive, which I picked up but haven't yet played. I guess other notable exclusives are Dead Rising and Halo - can't speak to their quality. The big upcoming exclusive I'm anticipating is Scalebound. Platinum Games action with dragons. That's the limit of my Xbox knowledge though. You'll enjoy the new controller rumble!
After spending the day with warm 1, I have gone back to warm 2. I guess after all these years it's what I'm used to. The flesh tones just seemed off to me. Of course I've been running warm 2 on my Tv's for about 15 years so it's just personal preference. My mom prefers "natural" picture mode with standard color temp, as does my best friend. I can't get past everything looking like I'm at my office under the fluorescents on that setting.
Conkerkid11
Member
Was gonna start using the Xbox One as the blu-ray player instead of the PS4, because of the TV remote support, but damn is the support horrible.
Press anything on the TV remote besides the play/pause button while an Xbox One blu-ray is playing, nothing happens. Press the play/pause button, some picture of the remote shows up on the right side of the screen, indicating what I'm pressing. Only then does it accept button inputs from my remote, but even then, they're incredibly delayed and don't even register half the time. Might just go back to PS4 and use a PS4 controller.
Also, why when I screencast a YouTube video or something from my phone to the TV does it rob the remote of control over the TV, and I have to sync it again? I ended up using that option on the TV to lock the remote to the TV, but I don't understand why I had to do that.
Finally, is there a way to setup like a password or something to prevent abuse of the screencast features? Don't really want just about anybody on the wi-fi network to be able to control the TV.
Edit: Actually finally, I'm really impressed with the voice controls. Just about every little command I've tested has worked flawlessly. Doesn't even pick up background noise or anything. Makes me curious though. Can you turn off devices from the TV? Like, it turns them on automatically when you switch to them as a source, but how do you turn them off?
It's so weird how all the orange stands out for maybe a solid 5 seconds after switching from something to Warm 2, and then it looks completely normal.
Press anything on the TV remote besides the play/pause button while an Xbox One blu-ray is playing, nothing happens. Press the play/pause button, some picture of the remote shows up on the right side of the screen, indicating what I'm pressing. Only then does it accept button inputs from my remote, but even then, they're incredibly delayed and don't even register half the time. Might just go back to PS4 and use a PS4 controller.
Also, why when I screencast a YouTube video or something from my phone to the TV does it rob the remote of control over the TV, and I have to sync it again? I ended up using that option on the TV to lock the remote to the TV, but I don't understand why I had to do that.
Finally, is there a way to setup like a password or something to prevent abuse of the screencast features? Don't really want just about anybody on the wi-fi network to be able to control the TV.
Edit: Actually finally, I'm really impressed with the voice controls. Just about every little command I've tested has worked flawlessly. Doesn't even pick up background noise or anything. Makes me curious though. Can you turn off devices from the TV? Like, it turns them on automatically when you switch to them as a source, but how do you turn them off?
I'm on Warm 1 right now after using Warm 2 for a couple days.
It's so weird how all the orange stands out for maybe a solid 5 seconds after switching from something to Warm 2, and then it looks completely normal.
Sutton Dagger
Member
Which store did you end up getting it from? All the shops are closed so I'll be grabbing one tomorrow.
Traxtech
Member
The prices went live yesterday so probably jb hi fi, Harvey Norman or Bing Lee before close since they all have them for around $1500. Picking one up myself first thing in thd morning
Sutton Dagger
Member
The prices went live yesterday so probably jb hi fi, Harvey Norman or Bing Lee before close since they all have them for around $1500. Picking one up myself first thing in thd morning
65" just under $2500 right? So excited
teacupcopter
Banned
Jb hifi has the 55" for $1000 off so $1496- I just paid online and selected pickup!
Conkerkid11
Member
Kind of annoying that the TV source auto-switches to something once you turn it on, like the Wii U, even though I just wanted to use the gamepad to download a game while football's on.
Weird thing also just happened. When I turned the Wii U on, the TV didn't recognize it as the source I set it up as, where I manually renamed it to Wii U, and set up the little video game icon thing. Now it's just HDMI 3.
Weird thing also just happened. When I turned the Wii U on, the TV didn't recognize it as the source I set it up as, where I manually renamed it to Wii U, and set up the little video game icon thing. Now it's just HDMI 3.
NoSkillz187
Member
How do I test sharpness? Like which image should I use and what am I looking for exactly?
IGNORE THIS POST. JUST REALISED THE IMAGE IN QUESTION IS A MOCK-UP OF THE PROBLEM, SO NO GUARANTEE THAT MY INSIGHT WOULD HELP WHATSOEVER.
Anyone here use Flux on the Mac? It changes the warmth of the screen so it goes more yellow in the evening, reducing eye strain.
I just opened the image from avforums showing the yellow/blue ghosting - and I couldn't see any. I turned Flux off and it faded back into view and vice versa.
Wondering if it's some failure of the warmth setting or something. Wasn't intentional - I forget I have Flux running. Edit - I thought it was something to do with HDR. When I turned it off in uncharted 4 it happened immediately, but then it happened again when I turned it back on. Had been four hours without it up until that point.
Here's the original picture
http://imgur.com/a/2YHxY
Flux https://justgetflux.com/
My Flux settings http://imgur.com/Cf1a7M4
Sorry about multiple posts, but thought it was intriguing enough to mention.
Anyone here use Flux on the Mac? It changes the warmth of the screen so it goes more yellow in the evening, reducing eye strain.
I just opened the image from avforums showing the yellow/blue ghosting - and I couldn't see any. I turned Flux off and it faded back into view and vice versa.
Wondering if it's some failure of the warmth setting or something. Wasn't intentional - I forget I have Flux running. Edit - I thought it was something to do with HDR. When I turned it off in uncharted 4 it happened immediately, but then it happened again when I turned it back on. Had been four hours without it up until that point.
Here's the original picture
http://imgur.com/a/2YHxY
Flux https://justgetflux.com/
My Flux settings http://imgur.com/Cf1a7M4
Sorry about multiple posts, but thought it was intriguing enough to mention.
Lakerchick4life
Member
For me when I connected the Wii U it named it "Game Console" when I turn OFF the Wii U the HDMI becomes greyed out and it still remains "Game Console" I was told by Samsung that when a system gets turned off the HDMI port will become greyed out..weird because my XBOX ONE S is off(but on Instant On) maybe that makes a difference as to why its not greyed out
Conkerkid11
Member
Wii U doesn't seem to have standby mode like the PS4 and Xbox One I guess. But it just happened, which I thought was weird, because I've turned it off quite a few times.
They just think I want all my devices always on? Like, why?
Metalstrike
Member
I have just posted on Samsung's site as well, thanks for linking the thread. I do hope Samsung can fix this. And yeah, nice solution "take it out of game mode" lmao.
piratepwnsninja
Member
Has anyone had problems with the TV blinking on and off when hooked to a PC? I can't seem to pin down what is causing this. I've replaced the HDMI cable, trying various settings on and off. Doesn't happen with my XBO or PS4.
I don't know if I could get used to anything cooler than Warm 1. I certainly don't find Warm 2 hard on the eyes.
This is from a string of posts earlier in the thread in which Phil0sophy threw a bit of doubt on the received wisdom regarding colour temperature:
http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=225991488
It was enough to make me less comfortable going with Warm 2 just because the calibration websites advised it, and having gone back and forth between Warm 2 (per most websites) and Warm 1 (per Sbone calibration), I found I preferred Warm 1. But I got used to both very quickly and easily; neither felt profoundly wrong.
Everything you need is here. Skip ahead to 2:30.
https://youtu.be/rnAaqy7mRLQ
NoSkillz187
Member
Thanks.
Lakerchick4life
Member
So is that why when the Wii U is off the HDMI port that its connected to greys out? I thought maybe I was doing something wrong it was so weird..and it names itself Game Console which is weird I figured it would know the name of the console like it does for the XBOX ONE S
Conkerkid11
Member
Kinda dumb that Cinemax GO isn't available on like any devices.
How much did you pay?, JBHiFi $1,998?
velociraptor
Junior Member
My panel has some clouding when the screen is black or totally grey. Is this normal or should I get it replaced?
d.cay
Neo Member
Thanks for your input, I've edited my original post with some information from you. I also updated the link to the test-image to one in UHD. I've tried to adjust sharpness using this image on an USB-Stick. Looking at the crosshair on the right I have trouble noticing any big difference when changing values. What exactly is meant by "ringing"? White outlines next to black lines for example? Is there a specific image you can recommend using when dealing with sharpness? Would be much appreciated!
Maaaaaardy
Member
What's the difference between the KS7000 and 8000? Seems to be around £400 difference and I'm intrigued to see what's so different. Both offer 4K and HDR don't they? Is the input lag low?
