• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2021. Sold Out Edition.

You will likely be overclocking everything, base clocks are never really used in a built PC on the CPU or GPU as there is no reason not to run at least the auto OC, my phrasing was poorly chosen. The question really should have been phrased how far are you planning on pushing your OC? For example, if I just set my mobo OC profile to auto, it automatically OCs my 10600K to 4.9Ghz (factory is 4.1) and runs 100% stable with no changes to voltage. On the GPU side, once you're set up, download and run Afterburner, it does a good job handling the OC on your GPU automatically the same way. With both, if you decide later to get curious, you can safely tinker without fear of burning it all down as the components really don't let that happen anymore.

From your reply I think auto settings will be what you use and with an AIO there's no reason not to. That said you still don't want to cheap out on VRM or build quality, but you also don't need features you won't use. The more OC you throw at the CPU the hotter it will run as well but if you're planning on running a decent cooler you shouldn't have any issues. I would also recommend running two drives in your system, a small closed C: drive dedicated to system files and another larger drive for everything else. Basically you want a C: drive that you never use and is dedicated purely to the system itself. It really does make things easy if you expand in the future or upgrade major components.

For what you've indicated so far I think you'd be fine spending a bit less on the mobo and going B550 since you don't seem to be interested in tinkering with performance as much. If you want more bling you start creeping back into higher pricing to have it though. Basically if a mobo has good RGB it will be loaded up with other options as well like multiple m.2 slots, better VRMs, better Wifi, and more on-board cooling for the VRMs and I/O components

Something like this should cover your needs outside the RGB. Single M.2, decent on-board cooling and VRM but still has USB-C. MSI's Bois is super simple to use and activating automatic CPU and RAM OCs are both one-click. I have no affinity to MSI mobos though I do currently use one and an MSI GPU. These choices just fit my search criteria of price/features/reviews. Asus, Aorus, Gigabyte, etc all make good products so go by what you think looks good, features and user reviews, not the name on the box.


If you want more bling, you're pretty much stuck with more everything else. $10 more gets you better VRMs, cooling, I/O components and some lighting without going crazy and inflating the price. Given the option I'd spend the $10. Worst case you never use the extra M.2 slot, but all the other parts are still better overall.


Now if you aren't in a hurry to get the mobo I'd sit on my hands for now as there aren't any decent sales going. Around CES (Jan 11-14) there should be some decent deals popping up. Around Black Friday got my Z-490 mobo for $100 off making it about the same price as the cheaper options but it came with much better components, more features like wi-fi 6/Lightning USB/etc and even a few more lights. I got my CPU for $100 off and go two M.2 drives (500GB/1TB) for $150. In all I saved a few hundred dollars.

If you can afford to be patient and keep your eyes peeled on a few online stores you could probably run across a decent X570 mobo for what some B550 mobos are selling for, or just get a higher-end B550 mobo cheaper. You might also want to keep your eyes peeled at local PC retailers for CPU/mobo combos as they tend to offer those deals as a means to get local traffic to stop in and spend a bit more on other parts.
Holy shit. I'm on those links and reading up on reviews for B550 motherboards.
I didn't know some motherboards do auto overclocking of CPU. That is an awesome feature. I wouldn't touch CPU clocks but GPU yes. I would overclock my GPU as much as I can. So I guess picking up a high quality board is pretty much essential.
I'll be looking more into this.

I really appreciate the info mate. Thank you again.
 
You might remember my post in the old thread that went


Yo guys I'm absolutely desperate with my computer. One day while playing it started resetting out of nowhere. This was like a month ago and I haven't been able to fix it.

So far I've tried:
- new psu
- new mobo + CPU
- removed GPU, tested with integrated
- tested RAM modules and slots separately and independently
- tested hard disks independently
- removed reset button front panel cable
- tried different power socket in a different room
- formatted and reinstalled Windows
- tried starting in safe mode, doesn't work (black screen)
- Disabled automatic reset in Windows options

Nothing works. I switch on the computer and in less than ten seconds, it resets. Seems to take less time if I'm connected to the internet. I'm literally at a loss and I don't know what else to try.

Any ideas? Anything helps
Well today I received a new case. After reinstalling in the new case the problem keeps happening. I've also tried changing the ram for an old module I found. Nada.

I'm literally out of options. I don't know what else to try. I've changed the whole computer and the problem keeps happening. I've tried a different wall socket.

Am I cursed?

Ed: I might be wrong but I think this happens every time I connect to the internet but ofc every time I try the first thing I do is connect to the internet. I think lights in the house might dim when the reboot happens but I've tried several wall sockets.

Might be somehow related to the router? There is another computer hooked to the router with no Ill effects.
 
Last edited:

Yerd

Member
You might remember my post in the old thread that went



Well today I received a new case. After reinstalling in the new case the problem keeps happening. I've also tried changing the ram for an old module I found. Nada.

I'm literally out of options. I don't know what else to try. I've changed the whole computer and the problem keeps happening. I've tried a different wall socket.

Am I cursed?

Ed: I might be wrong but I think this happens every time I connect to the internet but ofc every time I try the first thing I do is connect to the internet. I think lights in the house might dim when the reboot happens but I've tried several wall sockets.

Might be somehow related to the router? There is another computer hooked to the router with no Ill effects.
Unplug the network cable, if its cabled. Disable the NIC. Turn off the wifi card. Give all those a shot, 1 at a time of course. I had a motherboard that has 2 different built in NIC, try the other, if you have it. hMaybe you have faulty wiring in the house. If you're in an apartment, could be a problem trying this, but try an outlet that's on a completely different circuit. When I was building my first watercooling setup last year I discovered 3 outlets in my house that were bad. My sockets just quit altogether, though.

Are you running windows 7?

If you completely rebuilt this thing and it's still happening there's still something common denominator you need to find.
 
Last edited:

notseqi

Member
You might remember my post in the old thread that went



Well today I received a new case. After reinstalling in the new case the problem keeps happening. I've also tried changing the ram for an old module I found. Nada.

I'm literally out of options. I don't know what else to try. I've changed the whole computer and the problem keeps happening. I've tried a different wall socket.

Am I cursed?

Ed: I might be wrong but I think this happens every time I connect to the internet but ofc every time I try the first thing I do is connect to the internet. I think lights in the house might dim when the reboot happens but I've tried several wall sockets.

Might be somehow related to the router? There is another computer hooked to the router with no Ill effects.
You did all the right things but I feel it has something to do with the power in the house, maybe faulty wiring shorting out in the ground and not delivering stable current.
You said that you tried a different wall socket, did you try an entirely different circuit aswell? If not, try a socket that's under a different breaker (i.e. the garage).

Should that be it, let somebody check your wall sockets, that's iffy af.
In any case, keep updating, that sounds interesting.
 
You might remember my post in the old thread that went



Well today I received a new case. After reinstalling in the new case the problem keeps happening. I've also tried changing the ram for an old module I found. Nada.

I'm literally out of options. I don't know what else to try. I've changed the whole computer and the problem keeps happening. I've tried a different wall socket.

Am I cursed?

You did all the right things but I feel it has something to do with the power in the house, maybe faulty wiring shorting out in the ground and not delivering stable current.
You said that you tried a different wall socket, did you try an entirely different circuit aswell? If not, try a socket that's under a different breaker (i.e. the garage).

Should that be it, let somebody check your wall sockets, that's iffy af.
In any case, keep updating, that sounds interesting.
I'm running Windows 10 but I've also tried Ubuntu and the same problem occured. Today I've tried moving the pc to several wall sockets over the house in both floors - to no avail.

I have another pc in the first floor and another one in the second - both work correctly. They have a 550v and a 500v PSUs though - mine has a 750v.

The only thing I can think of is the house wiring. In late November the power company came do some repairs and there are was a huge surge which fried some led lights we had. But the problems didn't happen until some weeks afterward and as mentioned ive changed the PSU (and basically the whole computer really)

That or a curse. It's a curse right?
 

notseqi

Member
I'm running Windows 10 but I've also tried Ubuntu and the same problem occured. Today I've tried moving the pc to several wall sockets over the house in both floors - to no avail.

I have another pc in the first floor and another one in the second - both work correctly. They have a 550v and a 500v PSUs though - mine has a 750v.

The only thing I can think of is the house wiring. In late November the power company came do some repairs and there are was a huge surge which fried some led lights we had. But the problems didn't happen until some weeks afterward and as mentioned ive changed the PSU (and basically the whole computer really)

That or a curse. It's a curse right?
That's why I got to the faulty wiring and trying a socket that sits behind a different breaker (that would/should have tripped and saved other sockets and wiring from overheating and maybe shedding insulation):
When our weather turned to wet&cold my internet line got progressively worse - the wiring broke and grounded due to humidity. No problem on puny DSL copper YV cable but big boy current is another thing entirely, getting shocked being the least of your worries. Could be nothing, could be a lot.

Can you try the PC in a different house? I think it's just not getting enough juice.
 

ratburger

Member
While researching the problem I saw someone say that issues like this can stem from an underpowered power supply relative to the rest of the PC components. Any truth to that? Do you happen to know if 650w is sufficient for my setup? If I keep having the problem, at least swapping out the power supply would be a pretty cheap solution to try.
650W should be way more than enough for a 2080, even if you drastically increased the power limit on it.
 

Buggy Loop

Member
I was on memory express’s back order list for a 5600X and it finally shipped. Now I’m rushing to buy a new mini itx B550 board because I was on Ryzen 1 with an AB350.

Anyway, my question is not even related to those pieces, but NVME SSDs.

Are there any aggregation of NVME SSD thermal performances? I’m planning to be in 9 to 15 liters case, as I’m on the priority list for the FormD T1 2.0, but I’m also considering the Meshlicious case.

Are there SSDs that perform better for long usages rather than peak performances? I really don’t want thermal throttling.

edit : to clarify, while I would pick a 3.0 PCIe SSD for now, I eventually intend to put that SSD on the back of the motherboard to make place for an eventual 2021 updated PCIe 4.0 NVME SSD, so that’s a bit why I worry a tad about thermals, it won’t be in a nice spot, sandwiched next to a GPU in a small case.
 
Last edited:

notseqi

Member
I was on memory express’s back order list for a 5600X and it finally shipped. Now I’m rushing to buy a new mini itx B550 board because I was on Ryzen 1 with an AB350.

Anyway, my question is not even related to those pieces, but NVME SSDs.

Are there any aggregation of NVME SSD thermal performances? I’m planning to be in 9 to 15 liters case, as I’m on the priority list for the FormD T1 2.0, but I’m also considering the Meshlicious case.

Are there SSDs that perform better for long usages rather than peak performances? I really don’t want thermal throttling.

edit : to clarify, while I would pick a 3.0 PCIe SSD for now, I eventually intend to put that SSD on the back of the motherboard to make place for an eventual 2021 updated PCIe 4.0 NVME SSD, so that’s a bit why I worry a tad about thermals, it won’t be in a nice spot, sandwiched next to a GPU in a small case.
Remember to keep the old processor to maybe update the BIOS on the new board. Some people had trouble with boards not recognizing Ryzen 5xxxs out of the box.

Don't have a NVME yet but the temps for the m2 SATA installed are great (hand warm) but I do have a big case. Not much help, sorry.
 
Just did lots of searching on PC cases.

Current candidates for my first PC build is:
Meshify 2 XL
Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL

Both are a bit expensive where I live but that is fine, the plan is to build for future systems as well and I'm prioritizing cooling above everything else.
Both cases have room for loads of fans.

The Meshify 2 XL can accommodate x11 120mm fans and x9 140mm fans.
I'm assuming it would be the same for the Lian Li. I will be using an ATX motherboard with either of these cases and the idea is to give enough interior room as possible for the components while providing loads of airflow.

Considering the above, would 11 of the 120mm fans be great for airflow in such a large case with an ATX motherboard or will it be overkill?
 

Kenpachii

Member
Just did lots of searching on PC cases.

Current candidates for my first PC build is:
Meshify 2 XL
Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL

Both are a bit expensive where I live but that is fine, the plan is to build for future systems as well and I'm prioritizing cooling above everything else.
Both cases have room for loads of fans.

The Meshify 2 XL can accommodate x11 120mm fans and x9 140mm fans.
I'm assuming it would be the same for the Lian Li. I will be using an ATX motherboard with either of these cases and the idea is to give enough interior room as possible for the components while providing loads of airflow.

Considering the above, would 11 of the 120mm fans be great for airflow in such a large case with an ATX motherboard or will it be overkill?
Doesn't matter much both cases will cool whatever u put in it perfectly fine. Heat in the case is heavily overrated these days with cables not being in the way anymore and no more 4 way sli with massive air coolers that throw your PC in a full meltdown state.

Pretty much any case with a a fan in the back, a few fans at the top and fan in the front will be enough for pretty much 99% of the cases out there.
 

Md Ray

Member
Just did lots of searching on PC cases.

Current candidates for my first PC build is:
Meshify 2 XL
Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL

Both are a bit expensive where I live but that is fine, the plan is to build for future systems as well and I'm prioritizing cooling above everything else.
Both cases have room for loads of fans.

The Meshify 2 XL can accommodate x11 120mm fans and x9 140mm fans.
I'm assuming it would be the same for the Lian Li. I will be using an ATX motherboard with either of these cases and the idea is to give enough interior room as possible for the components while providing loads of airflow.

Considering the above, would 11 of the 120mm fans be great for airflow in such a large case with an ATX motherboard or will it be overkill?
Hardware Canucks on YT are a great resource when it comes to PC case reviews, just letting you know if you haven't come across them.
 
Last edited:
That's why I got to the faulty wiring and trying a socket that sits behind a different breaker (that would/should have tripped and saved other sockets and wiring from overheating and maybe shedding insulation):
When our weather turned to wet&cold my internet line got progressively worse - the wiring broke and grounded due to humidity. No problem on puny DSL copper YV cable but big boy current is another thing entirely, getting shocked being the least of your worries. Could be nothing, could be a lot.

Can you try the PC in a different house? I think it's just not getting enough juice.
Update: took the computer to a friend's house, same thing happens. Considering taking it to an exorcist next
 

Yerd

Member
Its hardware or software then. Can you repost that original comment.

Also start over. Take everything out of the pc that doesnt need to be there to run. If you run 2 or 4 ram, use 1. If you have intel with built in gpu use that, remove your gpu card. Unplug any wires that dont need to be plugged in. You can install windows from usb, drivers the same way. Any peripherals you dont need, keep them unplugged until you find the issue. If you have more than 1 hdd/sdd switch to the one that did not have windows before, remove the other. Or try an extra hdd as windows boot, remove any of the previous.

Try to get into safe mode and read the even viewer.
 

DGrayson

Mod Team and Bat Team
Staff Member
Thanks Topher Topher for the detailed post on keyboards (now appears as post 2 in the thread).

Remember anyone who wants to do something similar for other components, ie monitors, mice, cases, psus, headsets etc let us know!
 
I wanna put more money into my pc. (Kind of addicted) I have a 3080 strix (vertically mounted), 3700x, 2x8gb trident z royale, 3x QL120 fans as intake all in a 011 dynamic.

Only things I can really do is add more ram, which is pretty much pointless.

Edit: oh yeah, also have a 1tb 970 evo nvme, and a 1tb 860 evo.
 
Last edited:

Buggy Loop

Member
I wanna put more money into my pc. (Kind of addicted) I have a 3080 strix (vertically mounted), 3700x, 2x8gb trident z royale, 3x QL120 fans as intake all in a 011 dynamic.

Only things I can really do is add more ram, which is pretty much pointless.

Edit: oh yeah, also have a 1tb 970 evo nvme, and a 1tb 860 evo.

Next money sink is custom water loops :p

My best purchase in years was my monitor actually, AW3420DW, ultrawide 21:9 1440p, G-sync 120Hz. It's a game changer, i basically select games i can play in 21:9 now and those that can't (typically indie 2d games), i reserve for the Switch.
 

Yerd

Member
I was able to score a 3090 FE last tuesday from bestbuy. Picking it up tomorrow. I have a vertical itx open air case with a 2070 super in it now. The case does not support 3slot cards. So I think I will stand this thing up next to the case until I can get a waterblock with a 2slot bracket.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Just want to share a quality YouTube channel I discovered last year. This guy and his wife provide a lot of good advice on bang for you buck deals and builds.

 

GreatnessRD

Member
What's the best sub $200 b550 or x570 board?
Pretty subjective to be honest, lol. What do you need from the board? Ton of USB, Wi-fi, BIOS flashback, etc. Kinda hard to say what's the best when we don't know your use case. And what CPU did you plan to use? Lot of factors, lol
 
Pretty subjective to be honest, lol. What do you need from the board? Ton of USB, Wi-fi, BIOS flashback, etc. Kinda hard to say what's the best when we don't know your use case. And what CPU did you plan to use? Lot of factors, lol
Right now I have a b450 strix and a 3700x. Can't do any overclocking at all and besides that would like to future proof a bit, which I'm assuming an x570 would be the best for that.
 

GreatnessRD

Member
Right now I have a b450 strix and a 3700x. Can't do any overclocking at all and besides that would like to future proof a bit, which I'm assuming an x570 would be the best for that.
I came from a Strix B450, good times. But for what you're looking for, Asus X570 Tuf is pretty good, B550 Gaming F, MSI B550 Tomahawk and Aorus Elite X570 are pretty good under $200. Good luck on your search as well. PC prices are pretty stupid right now, smh.
 
I came from a Strix B450, good times. But for what you're looking for, Asus X570 Tuf is pretty good, B550 Gaming F, MSI B550 Tomahawk and Aorus Elite X570 are pretty good under $200. Good luck on your search as well. PC prices are pretty stupid right now, smh.
Thanks friend. I think my local microcenter has them all in stock except maybe the tomahawk.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
LG finally announced an OLED PC monitor!



I'm guessing it's not higher than 60hz or has VRR, unfortunately. Any good roundups of CES 2021 PC monitor announcements?
 

Excess

Member
Just wanted to share my build.

This was Project Kamino. It was an i7-6700K, 16GB RAM and GTX 1070 FE. I retired it on November 2020.

wtJnL9z.png

aTOroKf.png



My new build will be strictly for gaming: Project HydroCarbon.

Color Scheme for this build: Gold, Carbon Fiber and Black. I still need to purchase everything to complete this build, which includes various little parts to complete the water cooling. Here are the main components. I'll update as it comes together. Currently, it's running on air.

Specs:
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5600X
GPU - Nvidia RTX 3080 FE
RAM - Trident Z Royale Gold 32GB
Motherboard - MSI B550 Carbon
Case: Lian Li O11

CLZypfz.jpg
 
Thinking about getting an x570 or b550 board, coming from a b450. Thing is, I have a vertical gpu with a gen 3 riser cable. I can just set the pci to gen 3 in the bios correct? And still use my cable.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I actually believe mechanical keyboard manufacturers when they say the switches last for 50 million clicks. I've been using my Corsair K70 since 2013 with cherry mx brown switches as my daily driver (tons of gaming and typing over the years) and it still works just as great as day one.

Also, interesting to see Intel drop back down to 8c/16t for their top chip in the 11th generation (11900k). Has there been any talk about the next HEDT platform from Intel and when that may come out?
 

Mista

Banned
Just wanted to share my build.

This was Project Kamino. It was an i7-6700K, 16GB RAM and GTX 1070 FE. I retired it on November 2020.

wtJnL9z.png

aTOroKf.png



My new build will be strictly for gaming: Project HydroCarbon.

Color Scheme for this build: Gold, Carbon Fiber and Black. I still need to purchase everything to complete this build, which includes various little parts to complete the water cooling. Here are the main components. I'll update as it comes together. Currently, it's running on air.

Specs:
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5600X
GPU - Nvidia RTX 3080 FE
RAM - Trident Z Royale Gold 32GB
Motherboard - MSI B550 Carbon
Case: Lian Li O11

CLZypfz.jpg
This is beautiful. Congrats!
 
Just wanted to share my build.

This was Project Kamino. It was an i7-6700K, 16GB RAM and GTX 1070 FE. I retired it on November 2020.

wtJnL9z.png

aTOroKf.png



My new build will be strictly for gaming: Project HydroCarbon.

Color Scheme for this build: Gold, Carbon Fiber and Black. I still need to purchase everything to complete this build, which includes various little parts to complete the water cooling. Here are the main components. I'll update as it comes together. Currently, it's running on air.

Specs:
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5600X
GPU - Nvidia RTX 3080 FE
RAM - Trident Z Royale Gold 32GB
Motherboard - MSI B550 Carbon
Case: Lian Li O11

CLZypfz.jpg
What case did you use on your Kamino build?
 

Thomish

Member
🐐 ed thread. Waiting on a good CPU to accompany my 3080, not in a rush at all though. Will be the first PC I'll be building from scratch.

Which CPU are people going for to match with the 3000 series ATM?
 
Last edited:

Excess

Member
What case did you use on your Kamino build?

This was a Lian Li Alpha 550. I don't think they make it anymore, but it was basically a lesser version of Corsair's 570X. Still regret not getting the Corsair due to bad airflow in the Lian Li.

🐐 ed thread. Waiting on a good CPU to accompany my 3080, not in a rush at all though. Will be the first PC I'll be building from scratch.

Which CPU are people going for to match with the 3000 series ATM?

I think it depends on how you plan to use your PC. For example, the one I'm building is strictly for 4K gaming, so my PC is always going to be GPU bound, and I just don't need the extra cores. So I would suggest that the closer to 1080p gaming you are, the more performance you'll want from your CPU. If you also do a lot of productivity activities, such as video rendering, etc., you'll want the extra cores. For me, a 5600X was the sweet spot, although you can't go wrong with a 3000 series, too.
 

Mista

Banned
🐐 ed thread. Waiting on a good CPU to accompany my 3080, not in a rush at all though. Will be the first PC I'll be building from scratch.

Which CPU are people going for to match with the 3000 series ATM?
You can go with the 3000 series no harm in that. But my advice is to go with the 5000 series
 

Aesius

Member
Weird situation here. I bought a 3080 in November and immediately ran into crashes every 30 minutes or so in AC Unity or Quake 2 RTX. Ran GPU-Z and found that the card was drawing a full 320w at various times. I had a 650w EVGA G1 PSU (multi-rail unit, older, no longer recommended), so I power limited the card to 85% and the crashes went away. Later installed RDR2 and it crashed after 30 minutes as well, even with the power limit still in effect.

Bought an 850w Tier 1 PSU (Super Flower) to replace the EVGA. RDR2 was STILL crashing. So I ended up undervolting my 3080 and the problem seems to have gone away. Temps were getting up to high 70s C before undervolting and now with undervolt + faster fan speeds I stay at about 70 C max.

There's no way that even an 850w PSU isn't enough for RDR2, right? My other components are an i7 7700, 16 GB DDR4, 2 140mm fans, 2 120mm fans, 1 HDD, 1 m.2 SSD, and a Cryorig H7 cooler. Not a lot of power draw there. So the crashes must be from the temps...but I thought that the 3080s would withstand much higher temps than just high 70s C?
 

Deanington

Member
If you guys are looking to spend more money on pc parts look into custom keyboards. Probably one of my favorite "hobbies" when it comes to pc parts. Be warned it could be expensive, parts can be timed exclusive/sell out fast, lead time/shipping requires patience, soldering could be a thing, and highly addictive. Just GMK caps alone cost over 100 and after market 200 and up. Thats the high end with caps though. Cases range from a little over a 100 to around 1000 with tax and shipping. Aftermarket is insane. You can deep dive with cases, caps, artisan caps, switches, pcb's, custom cables, etc. I used to like looking at high end pc builds. Now I just build for quiet, cool efficiency, and tuck my pc away. The real aesthetics imo is what I use/see the most. The Reddit sub r/mechanicalkeyboards or r/cutomkeyboards is a good starting point to see some examples. Great buillds that tie in some really good looking battle stations. I have a few myself but subjectively am not on par with a lot of the desk builds that I see. Check it out, could be fun!
 
Last edited:

TheContact

Member
my PC is from 2016. It still runs amazing but when GPUs are sitting on shelves again I'm gonna build an entirely new PC and give mine to my kids
 

Fitzchiv

Member
Where's a guy got to go to get a scooby about how to buy a decent gaming laptop in 2021? My 2018 Lenovo Legion with its i5 and GTX 1050 can't run Rust on anything past low/medium and enough's enough.
 

Mista

Banned
If you guys are looking to spend more money on pc parts look into custom keyboards. Probably one of my favorite "hobbies" when it comes to pc parts. Be warned it could be expensive, parts can be timed exclusive/sell out fast, lead time/shipping requires patience, soldering could be a thing, and highly addictive. Just GMK caps alone cost over 100 and after market 200 and up. Thats the high end with caps though. Cases range from a little over a 100 to around 1000 with tax and shipping. Aftermarket is insane. You can deep dive with cases, caps, artisan caps, switches, pcb's, custom cables, etc. I used to like looking at high end pc builds. Now I just build for quiet, cool efficiency, and tuck my pc away. The real aesthetics imo is what I use/see the most. The Reddit sub r/mechanicalkeyboards or r/cutomkeyboards is a good starting point to see some examples. Great buillds that tie in some really good looking battle stations. I have a few myself but subjectively am not on par with a lot of the desk builds that I see. Check it out, could be fun!
Well hello there. Let me show you what am I going to receive by the end of the year


And I’m getting a tofu65 acrylic for the GMK
 
Just got a EVGA 3080 to go with my 3900X, hope i dont reget the lack of vram in the coming year.
Ah shit.

I feel like the 3070 and 3080 Super is just around the corner. Should have waited my friend but hey you at least got a 3080. Heard those cards are very hard to find. Congrats.

Got a 5600X.... paired with a 1060 6GB... fuck this GPU market.
Nice. Also the CPU I want to get in future. I have seen some people pair this with a 3080. Is that ok to do? I mean wouldn't a Ryzen 7 or 9 be preferable to go with a 3080 or 3090?
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom