• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

Status
Not open for further replies.
OK. I have made to decision to jump to PC gaming. :)

For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?


[]http://snipsly.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/wirelesscontrollerinpackage1.jpg[/]

I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?


Yeah, it's the most supported controller out there. Receiver works perfectly. Should be able to just plug in and go.

How old? It works fine in most newer (2006+) games, they'll detect it and use matching button prompts, etc. Older games won't recognize the triggers or won't recognize it at all. You need to use a different gamepad for those.

This is true also, though. Could have problems with older stuff.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Are VA monitors shit for gaming? I've been using a 2ms LCD for years and have no idea how an 8ms response time would feel at this point.

The two I'm looking at are Benq VW2420H and the SyncMaster S24A650S (Sammy).

A TN display Im considering is the Asus VS248H-P.

Really though, anything in the $200 range +/- $50 I'll take. There is so many monitors in this range I'm just stepping back for a minute and asking for help.

Does amazon ship to Canada?

Asus VM 236h for 139.99 after MIR or VW246H for 179.99. Both are recognized as good budget gaming monitors.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002453K5G/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LYWBOM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
The VW246H sounds interesting, seems pretty similar to the ASUS I mentioned but its not LED backlit. On the other hand its glossy and the VS248H-P is matte....damn it.

I'm going to head to Bestbuy tomorrow and see if I prefer matte or glossy screens.

Btw I am willing to go to 250 if there is a noticeable increase in quality.

edit: forgot to mention there is a used ACER S243HL for ~180 I can grab.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
It's a matte screen. Only the plastic is glossy.

I'd argue ccfl is superior to led, but that's up to you. My calibrated 246h uses 12 watts. So the whole led is more energy efficient is pretty irrelevant.
 
OK. I have made to decision to jump to PC gaming. :)

For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?


wirelesscontrollerinpackage1.jpg


I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?

The best controller imo for PC gaming. My brother tried to get his PS3 controller working and with some headaches, he was able to finally get it working.
 
Okay, I was waiting to update this around early summer, but since it's been a minute since the last one, I'm adding some of the non-OP enclosures I've been recommending since the last update, and updating some prices.




//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////




$40-60
fmfSB.png
$70-$100
fmfSB.png
$120-$200
nX1uG.jpg
$40 - BitFenix Merc Alpha/Beta ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Qpehg.jpg
$80 - Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced ,,,,,,
E7zrp.png
$130 - Cooler Master HAF XM/Corsair 500R/SilverStone RV02 (RV03/FT02)​
2cKfX.jpg
$40 - NZXT Source 210/210 Elite/220 ,,,,,,,,
zPi91.jpg
$100 - Fractal Design Arc/Lian Li PC-K63 ,,,,,,,
FUL6f.png
$150 - BitFenix Shinobi XL/NZXT Switch 810/Corsair 600T​
TXW8Z.jpg
$45 - Diablotek Evo/Rosewill Challenger ,,,,
u60RB.png
$100 - Antec Eleven Hundred/Corsair 400R ,,,,
lQA4F.jpg
$180 - Cooler Master HAF X/CM Storm Trooper/Xigmatek Elysium​
BODKG.jpg
$60 - Cooler Master HAF 912/922 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
7czVL.png
$100 - SilverStone KL04/TJ04-E ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
czSlQ.png
$ 200 - Lian Li PC-V700/PC-V750/Various Lian Li (~$100-200+)​
[QUIET OPTIONS]
ing1G.jpg
$60 - BitFenix Shinobi ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
IrTEf.jpg
$100 - Fractal Design Define R3/Define XL ,,,,
eDphO.jpg
$120 - Anidées AI-6B/Antec P280​
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
I feel like my computer has been running clunkier than normal. It's been like this for a good month or two now. I almost want to blame my ATI video drivers, but I'm not sure.

Playing Battlefield 3 for the first time in a month or so has only reaffirmed my suspicion because the game is running like complete shit for me. It used to run seamlessly, and now bam, it's like wth (same settings and everything). I'm pretty sure my drivers are up to date, but I normally just install new ATI drivers on top of my existing drivers. Could this have possibly caused some complications?

I'm certain it's not a virus or malware as I haven't gotten any notices from my various anti-spyware software. What do you guys think? Should I maybe wipe my current drivers clean with some software and reinstall the latest ATI drivers, or is that pointless? Any other tests I should consider running?
 

MrBig

Member
I feel like my computer has been running clunkier than normal. It's been like this for a good month or two now. I almost want to blame my ATI video drivers, but I'm not sure.

Playing Battlefield 3 for the first time in a month or so has only reaffirmed my suspicion because the game is running like complete shit for me. It used to run seamlessly, and now bam, it's like wth (same settings and everything). I'm pretty sure my drivers are up to date, but I normally just install new ATI drivers on top of my existing drivers. Could this have possibly caused some complications?

I'm certain it's not a virus or malware as I haven't gotten any notices from my various anti-spyware software. What do you guys think? Should I maybe wipe my current drivers clean with some software and reinstall the latest ATI drivers, or is that pointless? Any other tests I should consider running?
Those things can be a drastic performance drain themselves. If you are competent in using the internet you only "need" to be running MSE, and with only with download and on-demand scanning.

A clean install of windows can do wonders. I do it at least once a year and it brings a general refreshing improvement.

Check processes that are running with a lot of ram or cpu time committed to them.
 
Finally looking to upgrade my video card. It's acting up, and I'm frankly tired of ATI's shitty video drivers and support. I'm looking to move to an nVidia card in the 200 dollar range.

Thing is, what do I order? Is a vanilla 560 better than a 560 "Ti"? Does the Ti come with a little rapper? What's the SE? It's been a while since I shopped for nVidia stuff, so I feel totally lost on this Newegg page.

I'm replacing a Radeon 6850, and putting it into a with 12GB RAM and a Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition. I'm not looking for something incredibly future-proof since I intend to do an entirely new build sometime in the next couple of years, but I would like something to tide me over for a while.


Your Current Specs: Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition / 12GB DDR3 / GA-770TA-UD3 / Radeon 6850
Budget: $150-220 (United States)
Main Use: Gaming, Photoshop, Premiere, After Effects
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3 on comparable settings to now (I play on mostly High with some Medium) but hopefully without bullshit stuttering and hitching.
Are reusing any parts?: I just want to upgrade the video card at this point.
When will you build?: Looking to order this week.
Will you be overclocking?: No.

EDIT - is this a decent deal, considering I'm changing from a 1GB Radeon 6850?
 

mkenyon

Banned
You guys should seriously consider using drivers from AMD, that ATI stuff has to be pretty outdated by now.

/sarcasm

@MrOogieBoogie

What Mr. Big said. And yeah, you should *not* be installing new right over previous drivers. Always always delete the old ones first. Hell, a friend of mine doesn't update drivers unless he does a clean windows install first.

@BigJiantRobut
The grass isn't greener. You ever hear of an AMD driver that actually killed the card? Been running nvidia in one gaming rig and amd in the other for years. Both sides have problems, and yours may not be the fault of AMD.

560ti and 6870 are the best choices for you.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
You guys should seriously consider using drivers from AMD, that ATI stuff has to be pretty outdated by now.

/sarcasm

@MrOogieBoogie

What Mr. Big said. And yeah, you should *not* be installing new right over previous drivers. Always always delete the old ones first. Hell, a friend of mine doesn't update drivers unless he does a clean windows install first.

@BigJiantRobut
The grass isn't greener. You ever hear of an AMD driver that actually killed the card? Been running nvidia in one gaming rig and amd in the other for years. Both sides have problems, and yours may not be the fault of AMD.

560ti and 6870 are the best choices for you.

Ah, okay. What's the recommended driver removal software?

Short of reinstalling Windows (which I don't feel like doing atm), what's the most I can do to give my system a nice refreshing cleanse?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Delete all of your anti spyware stuff, stop surfing questionable porn sites that require them, and use MSE. :p

Driver sweeper.

*edit*

In case this isn't clear. Delete old drivers, restart, driver sweeper, restart, install new drivers.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Delete all of your anti spyware stuff, stop surfing questionable porn sites that require them, and use MSE. :p

Driver sweeper.

I should clarify: I only use MSE. And I visit the safest porn site (note: "site," not sites) with Chrome + Adblock and WOT and all that good stuff. I'm good on that, bro.

Hence why the clunkiness is so surprising. Will run Driver Sweeper though and see if it helps. Thanks.
 

mkenyon

Banned
So while researching a bit on memory for a new build, I came across this stuff on Overclock.net. 8GB kit, 4GB stick.

It looks lame, but it's on a new 30nm process and apparently it clocks better than most $200+ sets of RAM. Takes tweaking to get there, but the results are pretty outstanding. Just from the reviews on the egg:

Easy to oc to 2133Mhz, 1.5V 9-10-10-24 1T

Super Cheap, OC's like a BEAST. I currently have 4 sticks in my x79 build running @ 2260 Mhz 9-10-10-24

There are not a lot of people who know about this RAM, and many of who do look at the specs and says it's terrible because they see it's horrid timings for the rated speed.

HOWEVER. This RAM overclocks like none other. It is made on the new 30nm technology and thus overclocks better than the previous gen 40nm RAM chips, and even uses less power.

I easily overclocked mine to 2133MHz @ 9-10-10-27 1T at 1.5v This is on the z68 Sandy Bridge platform

Easily OC to 10-10-10-28-1T with 1.5V's at 2133MHz
 
I reformated my PC and since then I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the screen tearing to stop when I'm gaming. I've been using the NVidia control panel, I turn on V-Sync and Triple Buffering. Is there another program that performs these actions more effectively? Am I missing anything?

I have a GTX570 and have the latest (non-beta) drivers installed.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Delete all of your anti spyware stuff, stop surfing questionable porn sites that require them, and use MSE. :p

Driver sweeper.

*edit*

In case this isn't clear. Delete old drivers, restart, driver sweeper, restart, install new drivers.

Alright, this seemed to do the trick!

Ever since I built this thing eight months ago I've simply been installing drivers on top of drivers, but only in the past month or so have I noticed the clunkyness I mentioned earlier.

Didn't realize how much a clean driver sweep would help. BF3 is running well again! Thanks, man.
 

Takuan

Member
I managed a 4GHz overclock without much of an issue, but my temps went as high as 73 C doing the Prime95 Blend test. Ambient temperature in my room can't be more than low 20s, and the case was open. Things that matter:

1. Heatsink (212+) is on properly, coated the contact pad with a thin layer of Arctic Alumina and used the line method on the CPU, using the fan that came with it but considering putting the Scythe I was using for my q9550 on there

2. DRAM voltage was set improperly @ 1.7 (it's spec'd for 1.65@1600, but Google told me otherwise)

3. RAM was set @ 1600, XMP not enabled

Currently have the RAM running at 1333/1.5 as spec'd with the 4GHz OC going, didn't notice a decrease in temps. I'm not even going to attempt 4.5GHz until I'm able to get temps down like 10 C on average. What else could I be doing wrong?
 

Khrno

Member
Hey guys, I need some helpful advice.

I have a 460 SLI setup, however one of the 460 is not working properly anymore, basically it's about to die, so now I'm on a single GTX 460.

I do PC gaming mostly for MMOs, so my question is, should I get a new 460 and go back to my SLI setup, or get a new 560 or 570. I don't have enough money right now to go SLI on 560/570, and the 580/680 are just out of the question.

Is it worth it to upgrade in the short term to a 560/570, is it a 460 SLI setup better, or should I wait with a single 460 until the Nvidia releases the 660/670?

Thanks.
 

Suite Pee

Willing to learn
Ugh, I'm super nervous about building my first computer but I pretty much have to do this as I'm about to start on my Master's and I need to get an updated desktop before then. I'm pretty sure everything works together, as I got most of the ideas from the OP. I just wonder if I'm spending a little too much, and I might try to cut 100 or 200 dollars off the price. However, at some point I will hopefully use a Christmas gift for another 7950 for Crossfire (hence the PSU).

link

Thanks for any input. It's tough to drop the money on something I've never done before, but I guess with the guides in the OP and how simple it's been for me to remove and replace parts of my pre-built computer, it shouldn't be too hard.

edit: And I probably will look for a wireless card instead of a usb adapter.
 

abasm

Member
I've got a HAF 912, Hyper 212+, and seven 120mm fans between them. For airflow, I was going to go with

Intake - 2 front, 1 side
Exhaust - 1 rear, 1 top
Heatsink - 1 (push)

Now, given that the Hyper 212+ needs at least one fan but can accommodate two, do I use the final fan for exhaust at the top? (I think this would create negative air pressure inside of the case, since the graphics card is exhausting air as well.) OR do I add the extra fan to the heatsink in a push-pull configuration?
 

MBison

Member
Hey mkenyon, if I go from the 5850 to the 7950, will my current power supply be fine, ie I assume both cards use about the same? I believe I have a 750W.

Is there any reason I should consider SLI instead?

Sorry I'm such a newb :)
 

Hawk269

Member
Hey guys...

I have a EVGA GTX - 580 1.5 GB Video Card up for sale. The card comes with the Backplate and High Flow Bracket installed on the card. Card is in great condition.

Asking $300.00 + Shipping for it.

If interested, please PM so we can work out the details/payment etc.
 

r4z4

Member
I'm thinking of putting together an mATX gaming pc for Guild Wars 2/Diablo 3. It's based on Haz's 'excellent' build and I'm going to wait for his next update but here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£161.29 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£131.62 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£36.65 @ Maplin Electronics)
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£65.99 @ Ebuyer)
Video Card: MSI Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card (£198.92 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£54.99 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: OCZ 500W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£47.55 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: Sony AD-7261S-0B DVD/CD Writer (£15.82 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £712.83

Questions:
1. Is it worth waiting for IB and upgrading the motherboard to a Maximus V? It'll cost a bit more to go IB + Maximus V but I'm not sure it's worth it.
2. The Arc Mini is a nice case but I would like to go even smaller if possible, I'm worried that it would give me heating issues when overclocking. Is it safe to go for a smaller case such as the Lian-Li V351?
 

Ledsen

Member
OK. I have made to decision to jump to PC gaming. :)

For now, I just want to play really old games via steam on my laptop. Is this considered to be a good all around controller for pc gaming?


wirelesscontrollerinpackage1.jpg


I loved the feel of the 360 controller, but wonder how it well it is supported and what not. Does the wireless receiver work ok?

The 360 controller is basically as much a standard for PC as it is for 360. It's the only controller for PC.

I reformated my PC and since then I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the screen tearing to stop when I'm gaming. I've been using the NVidia control panel, I turn on V-Sync and Triple Buffering. Is there another program that performs these actions more effectively? Am I missing anything?

I have a GTX570 and have the latest (non-beta) drivers installed.

You need to download Rivatuner and install it, it comes with D3D Overrider. It should be standard install on all gaming PCs.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
I reformated my PC and since then I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the screen tearing to stop when I'm gaming. I've been using the NVidia control panel, I turn on V-Sync and Triple Buffering. Is there another program that performs these actions more effectively? Am I missing anything?

I have a GTX570 and have the latest (non-beta) drivers installed.

D3D Overrider is what most people use for triple buffering and v-sync.

Traditionally, v-sync and triple buffering in the control panel have only applied to OpenGL.

I think it may have changed with the latest driver and adaptive v-sync, but that was totally broken for my GTX 460 and I rolled back to an older driver. Can't speak authoritatively on that.
 

MBison

Member
You can use D3D Overrider with ATI also right?

Question: when switching out my 5850 for the 7950, what's the best way to install, should I be uninstalling the driver before switching the card or is it ok to just shut down, switch cards, and boot up? I know, tech newb!
 

ss_lemonade

Member
You can use D3D Overrider with ATI also right?

Question: when switching out my 5850 for the 7950, what's the best way to install, should I be uninstalling the driver before switching the card or is it ok to just shut down, switch cards, and boot up? I know, tech newb!
Yup D3DOverrider works fine.

As for swapping out cards, I think it should work even without uninstalling drivers, but your better off just removing the drivers, then putting in the new card and installing some brand new drivers. That's what I did when I moved from an nvidia card to amd
 

ParityBit

Member
Hi All,

So while I wait for IB, I have been trying to plan my build strategy. I am looking for some suggestions as far as setting up the fans [i.e. Push/Pull]. I looked online at various videos and board threads, all they all seem different, which to me means some are doing it correct, and some are not.

So my case has (http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/crafted_series/phantom):

FRONT: 1 X 140mm
REAR: 1 X 120mm
SIDE: 2 x 120mm
SIDE: 1 x 200mm
TOP: 2 X 200mm

And I have a H100 which has 2 x 120mm

All of my fans are aftermarket silents of various types and I have a fan for all spots. Obviously if I do not need to use all the fans, I won't.

Lastly, how will the H100 mount to the top of the case when attaching to the 200mm fans. Is that an issue?

Thanks!
 
I got my 500r yesterday. Managing the cables was much easier than the challenger ( its bigger too).

I got one as well, just waiting for the processor before putting it all together.

I managed to snap the little tab that holds the top mesh in place though. :-/
 
I tided up my cables a little and it resulted in my BIOS temps falling by around 10°C. I was just wondering if anybody could see any room for improvement, the secondary power's the only thing that stands out to me and I think I'm screwed on that front. Anyway the image is here:

r2Bww.jpg
 

Takuan

Member
That is really high. Stock volts?

I didn't touch the CPU voltage settings. I noticed that the voltage varies based on how hard the CPU is working, so it's clearly on some variable/automatic setting.

Aside from the thermal grease/heat sink installation, I don't know what could be wrong. I'll try a re-application.
 
I've had a tube of Arctic Silver 5 sitting in a drawer since my last build in 2006. Is it still good to use or should I buy another tube of something?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'm thinking of putting together an mATX gaming pc for Guild Wars 2/Diablo 3. It's based on Haz's 'excellent' build and I'm going to wait for his next update but here's what I have so far:

Questions:
1. Is it worth waiting for IB and upgrading the motherboard to a Maximus V? It'll cost a bit more to go IB + Maximus V but I'm not sure it's worth it.
2. The Arc Mini is a nice case but I would like to go even smaller if possible, I'm worried that it would give me heating issues when overclocking. Is it safe to go for a smaller case such as the Lian-Li V351?
1. You can get the Maximus Gene V and use SB. It's not worth waiting if you think you will be overclocking in the 4.6-5.0 range with a 2500K.

2. It really depends on what your have plans for in the future as far as video cards and CPU cooling. Lian Li A04 and Silverstone TJ-08 offer a perfect amount of room for air cooling everything with plenty of airflow for even high end parts. They're both really small, and to be honest, have no competition in the $100-150 price range. (other than Arc Mini and V354)

There really isn't anything that compares with the Fractal Arc Mini as far as capabilities:size unless you start looking at the $190+ range, such as the V700 or Silverstone FT03 (the latter for air cooling only). If you want an H100, you're pretty much stuck with the Arc Mini.

However, if you are looking to only use a single PCI-E slot, you could go with ASUS's new Z77 ITX motherboard and get an even smaller case. The Bitfenix Prodigy is coming out soon, which looks pretty amazing. FT03 mini (itx as opposed to matx) is also a good choice.
I didn't touch the CPU voltage settings. I noticed that the voltage varies based on how hard the CPU is working, so it's clearly on some variable/automatic setting.

Aside from the thermal grease/heat sink installation, I don't know what could be wrong. I'll try a re-application.
You need to turn that off of auto, thats why your temps are so high.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom