"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.
So I just came across this website siliconlottery.com and also the information that the Intel Kaby Lake cpus (7700k) and also 7600 hugely benefit from opening up and replacing the original Intel applied thermal compound with liquid metal thermal compound and replacing. People are talking about 20C lower at 5GHz clock speed before and after. Siliconlottery actually test how fast they can get the intel chips up to so you know you will have a good one for clocking and also provide the delid and replace thermal compound service.

I just ordered a 5.1GHz with the delid service included so will let you know how I get on.

Anyone else use these guys ?
I did.

My overclock is stable at exactly their advertised specs. I tried and failed to improve upon their recommendations.

I also found the i7 processor i was looking for on their eBay store and was able to haggle the price down $20.

Hi PC GAF, what's the difference between Windows 10 Home N and Windows 10 Home for gaming purposes?
Nothing.

You have to download the Media Feature Pack, Windows Media Player, Windows Movie Maker, and Apple's Quicktime or iTunes if you plan to live-stream using OBS. Even if you don't plan on using the last 4 items you will need some of their codecs and other components. Also grab the k-lite codec pact to cover all remaining bases.

[edit] The above might not be the most recent version of the Media Feature Pack. Their download site does not depreciate old versions of most software. I was using a 2 year old version of the pack for months before i realized there were newer versions available.
 
For anyone who hasn't heard, the GTX 1080 Ti will be available next week for $699 (founders edition). Same number of cuda cores as Titan X, 11gb gddr5x, supposed to faster than titan x.
 
I bought one of those really cheap Crucial ones...1TB for $239. I know it is basically the same performance as a sata drive, but for me the removal of sata cables from my system is priceless. I am that much of an appearance whore.
Her PC is in an Air 540. You only see about 1/2 inch of SATA cable anyway, 2.5 tray is behind the motherboard.
 
This is a hell of a week for PC enthusiasts. Can't wait for 3/2 to hear the Ryzen reviews. I'm rooting for AMD to live up to the hype. Competition is good.
Eh, I wish them best of luck but after my bad experience with the FX6300 these past three years I'm going Intel this time.

I was a cheap bastard who wasn't in the know enough to realize that AMD was experiencing their own Pentium 4 disaster. Easily one of my worst purchasing decisions ever, even if I did get that damn thing up to ok performance OC'd.
 
Delidding has been almost a requirement to get the most out of Intel's chips since Ivy Bridge. Welcome to 2012.
Well I havent built a new PC since before that (which is why I came to this thread.._.

Might be an idea to add this to the op if enthusiasts are all doing that.


Also Intel - fix this shit..
 
Okay so I have a quick kinda off topic question, I'm getting a switch on friday and I wanted to know if there was a way to have the audio from my PC and the audio from the switch play out of the same set of headphones. My monitor has a line in port and if I am in hdmi moe I can have that audio playing instead of the hdmi audio it also has a headphone jack and I was thinking about buying two 3.5mm Male to Male cables and trying to rig my PC and monitor to eachother while using the hami plugged into the monitor to recieve video from the switch. Would this work, would I be able to have windows output to two audio sources in a way. Thanks in advance.
 
Hey GAF, need help installing new Windows.

So I purchased Windows 10 Home from a local seller which is telling me I need to update my key after a year. So I got on r/softwareswap a Windows 10 home N key, how do I install it? Do I need to completly wipe the PC including Windows 10 home and then boot an ISO with it?
 
Well I havent built a new PC since before that (which is why I came to this thread.._.

Might be an idea to add this to the op if enthusiasts are all doing that.


Also Intel - fix this shit..
They found using solder was cracking dies since the die has a much reduced surface area. They have built in tolerances to prevent the IHS crushing the die and therefore results in varying temp performance, albeit worse in every way.
 
Hey GAF, need help installing new Windows.

So I purchased Windows 10 Home from a local seller which is telling me I need to update my key after a year. So I got on r/softwareswap a Windows 10 home N key, how do I install it? Do I need to completly wipe the PC including Windows 10 home and then boot an ISO with it?
No need to reinstall. Just right click on the start menu, click on System, then change product key.
 
Hi everyone, it's been a while!

I'm back cuz I need some help with OC issues. Way back in June I built myself a rig (hadn't done so in a while but this thread gave me the motivation I needed) with the following:

Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI
i5 6600K
CM Nepton 140XL AIO cooler
16Gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @ 3000Mhz
512Gb Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Corsair CS750M 750W semi-modular PSU
Fractal Define R5 case

to which I added an MSI Armor GTX1080 in August.

I've finally gotten around to trying to OC my CPU and I feel like, unless I got something dramatically wrong, I've kinda lost the silicon lottery.

Original temps at stock clocks with my AIO were in the 30s (idle) and 40s-low 50s under load, which I was very satisfied with. When I decided to OC I went into the BIOS, turned LLC to High, and went to work trying to achieve 4.4Ghz, which I heard basically all 6600Ks were capable of.

Using RealBench as a stress test I ended up with 4.4Ghz (default BCLK, 44 multiplier) at 1.325 Vcore, which I feel is quite high. Anything lower than that would crash either at boot or during stress testing.

My issue is that my temps are really high: in RealBench stress-testing and some games (Watch Dogs 2, I'm looking at you), my temps end up in the high 70s or even low 80s with my AIO's exhaust sounding like a jet engine. The weird thing is that the temps drop into the 40s-50s almost instantly when the CPU isn't under load (and are still between 30 and 40 when idle), so I feel like the AIO is at least doing some of its job correctly, but it isn't really keeping load temps as low as I'd like.

I'm quite sure I've configured my AIO correctly. The pump is plugged into the CPU_OPT header, which is set to operate at full speed at all times, and the exhaust fans are plugged into the CPU_FAN header which is set to a custom curve (in the Gigabyte SIV app because the damn thing isn't recognized in SpeedFan).

So basically my question is: is this normal? Is there anything I can try to have lower temps and therefore less noise? Are there any BIOS settings I may have missed?

Any help from you lovely PCGAFers would be fantastic :)
 
My favorite monitor ever was the Dell Crystal. I wish they came out with a modern version with all bells and whistles. I still have mine but don't use it, going to keep it around forever just as a show piece. It's a work of art.
 
Hi everyone, it's been a while!

I'm back cuz I need some help with OC issues. Way back in June I built myself a rig (hadn't done so in a while but this thread gave me the motivation I needed) with the following:

Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI
i5 6600K
CM Nepton 140XL AIO cooler
16Gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @ 3000Mhz
512Gb Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Corsair CS750M 750W semi-modular PSU
Fractal Define R5 case

to which I added an MSI Armor GTX1080 in August.

I've finally gotten around to trying to OC my CPU and I feel like, unless I got something dramatically wrong, I've kinda lost the silicon lottery.

Original temps at stock clocks with my AIO were in the 30s (idle) and 40s-low 50s under load, which I was very satisfied with. When I decided to OC I went into the BIOS, turned LLC to High, and went to work trying to achieve 4.4Ghz, which I heard basically all 6600Ks were capable of.

Using RealBench as a stress test I ended up with 4.4Ghz (default BCLK, 44 multiplier) at 1.325 Vcore, which I feel is quite high. Anything lower than that would crash either at boot or during stress testing.

My issue is that my temps are really high: in RealBench stress-testing and some games (Watch Dogs 2, I'm looking at you), my temps end up in the high 70s or even low 80s with my AIO's exhaust sounding like a jet engine. The weird thing is that the temps drop into the 40s-50s almost instantly when the CPU isn't under load (and are still between 30 and 40 when idle), so I feel like the AIO is at least doing some of its job correctly, but it isn't really keeping load temps as low as I'd like.

I'm quite sure I've configured my AIO correctly. The pump is plugged into the CPU_OPT header, which is set to operate at full speed at all times, and the exhaust fans are plugged into the CPU_FAN header which is set to a custom curve (in the Gigabyte SIV app because the damn thing isn't recognized in SpeedFan).

So basically my question is: is this normal? Is there anything I can try to have lower temps and therefore less noise? Are there any BIOS settings I may have missed?

Any help from you lovely PCGAFers would be fantastic :)

Are you sure you applied the thermal paste properly and connected the cooler properly to the CPU? The load temperatures sound awfully high for a water cooler. I don't have much experience with water coolers though, so maybe that AiO is just not good.
Also I'm a little surprised by the idle temperatures. 40C shouldn't happen during idle imo.
 
Are you sure you applied the thermal paste properly and connected the cooler properly to the CPU? The load temperatures sound awfully high for a water cooler. I don't have much experience with water coolers though, so maybe that AiO is just not good.
Also I'm a little surprised by the idle temperatures. 40C shouldn't happen during idle imo.
I will admit that my memories of idle temps at stock clocks may not be the best, but at current clocks I can confirm 35-ish when idle and 70 or more when stress testing.

I'll try reapplying thermal paste, but given the cooldown speed I'm thinking it's OK.
 
Looks like I did the smart thing and held off on upgrading my PC a few months ago. 1080ti looks mighty impressive for the price but I'm still gonna wait and see what AMD offers.
 
So I have some questions. I'm upgrading from an original Titan to the 1080ti. I have a 4770k, non-OC'd (so, 3.5Ghz). Will my CPU be a bottleneck if I run at 1440p? If so, I might invest in Ryzen as well.
 
TBH, I can't really figure it out. I've read guides and such, but it's always seemed either too tedious or too complicated. But if it'll prevent me from having to upgrade, I'll figure it out.
What cooling solution do you have?

Something to think about... My 2500k at stock is equivalent to an excavator Athlon quad core in the CPU-Z bench. Overclocked, it's on par with yours. Yours should see similar improvements with an overclock.
 
TBH, I can't really figure it out. I've read guides and such, but it's always seemed either too tedious or too complicated. But if it'll prevent me from having to upgrade, I'll figure it out.
Yeah, Ryzen might be a better choice for you then. All the CPUs with model numbers ####X have a feature called XFR, which is basically automatic overclocking based on how good a cooler you have installed.

The 1600X would probably be the best pick for you, but that's not coming out until Q2 (April - June).
 
I wasn't sure if I should put this in the Gaming Laptop thread or not since I don't want a laptop for gaming, but for school work.

I start my master's program next week, studying Data Analytics. I just have a desktop now that I use for everything, but need a laptop to take to class with me to do work. Don't need graphics card, would like SSD and at least 15 inch screen and spend no more than $600. I'll be using it for normal school work, plus programs like ArcGIS, advanced Excel and Access usage, probably other database management/mining programs that I don't know about yet.

I'd love a Dell XPS, but I don't want to spend that kind of money.

How's this one look? - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834315779
 
Yeah, Ryzen might be a better choice for you then. All the CPUs with model numbers ####X have a feature called XFR, which is basically automatic overclocking based on how good a cooler you have installed.

The 1600X would probably be the best pick for you, but that's not coming out until Q2 (April - June).

The X at the end has nothing to do with XFR!
 
Hi everyone, it's been a while!

I'm back cuz I need some help with OC issues. Way back in June I built myself a rig (hadn't done so in a while but this thread gave me the motivation I needed) with the following:

Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI
i5 6600K
CM Nepton 140XL AIO cooler
16Gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @ 3000Mhz
512Gb Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Corsair CS750M 750W semi-modular PSU
Fractal Define R5 case

to which I added an MSI Armor GTX1080 in August.

I've finally gotten around to trying to OC my CPU and I feel like, unless I got something dramatically wrong, I've kinda lost the silicon lottery.

Original temps at stock clocks with my AIO were in the 30s (idle) and 40s-low 50s under load, which I was very satisfied with. When I decided to OC I went into the BIOS, turned LLC to High, and went to work trying to achieve 4.4Ghz, which I heard basically all 6600Ks were capable of.

Using RealBench as a stress test I ended up with 4.4Ghz (default BCLK, 44 multiplier) at 1.325 Vcore, which I feel is quite high. Anything lower than that would crash either at boot or during stress testing.

My issue is that my temps are really high: in RealBench stress-testing and some games (Watch Dogs 2, I'm looking at you), my temps end up in the high 70s or even low 80s with my AIO's exhaust sounding like a jet engine. The weird thing is that the temps drop into the 40s-50s almost instantly when the CPU isn't under load (and are still between 30 and 40 when idle), so I feel like the AIO is at least doing some of its job correctly, but it isn't really keeping load temps as low as I'd like.

I'm quite sure I've configured my AIO correctly. The pump is plugged into the CPU_OPT header, which is set to operate at full speed at all times, and the exhaust fans are plugged into the CPU_FAN header which is set to a custom curve (in the Gigabyte SIV app because the damn thing isn't recognized in SpeedFan).

So basically my question is: is this normal? Is there anything I can try to have lower temps and therefore less noise? Are there any BIOS settings I may have missed?

Any help from you lovely PCGAFers would be fantastic :)
Delid your cpu.
 
What cooling solution do you have?

Something to think about... My 2500k at stock is equivalent to an excavator Athlon quad core in the CPU-Z bench. Overclocked, it's on par with yours. Yours should see similar improvements with an overclock.
My cooling is a Corsair Hydro H55.

TBH its like following steps 1,2,3 im not sure what kind of guides you have been checking.
Well for a while I had some really strange issues with my rig that no one can figure out. I still have the same issue, but it's less frequent, so I've been hesitant to touch anything.
 
TBH, I can't really figure it out. I've read guides and such, but it's always seemed either too tedious or too complicated. But if it'll prevent me from having to upgrade, I'll figure it out.
You can find overclocking guides for your CPU generation. Generally just set all the CPU max ratio to whatever your CPU can reasonably handle (like 4 GHz) and up the CPU voltage a bit using the offset option where you basically type in like +0.100 mV and the CPU will vary this dynamically with its clock speed. That's pretty much all you need to do to get an overclock going. Figure out how to reset the CMOS on the motherboard if your computer won't boot up.
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
A 1080 should do fine for that. 1080 Ti is IMO the card to go if you want to play 4K @ 60 fps.
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
1070 would be the minimum to look at. However...

A 1080 should do fine for that. 1080 Ti is IMO the card to go if you want to play 4K @ 60 fps.
The 1080 does become a viable option if you're looking at current 1070 prices, because the 1080 is getting a price cut in light of the 1080 Ti's launch price.
 
A 1080 should do fine for that. 1080 Ti is IMO the card to go if you want to play 4K @ 60 fps.
I dont understand this, why would ti be 4k 60fps card and not 1440p 144fps too?

To original guy asking, its pretty hard to decide for you what you want, you have to check your budget and the fps differences and decide what is right for you.
1080ti will be best but also most expencive.
 
What's the issue?
At times, my PC will randomly restart. Like cut to black and restart. When the issue first popped up, it was accompanied by this horrible feedback noise and a screen freeze for a second and it happened during games pretty often and I couldn't play a YouTube video longer than three minutes or so without the issue happening. So after deliberating with people, I figured it was probably a PSU or Mobo issue, so I replaced both of those with similar models. The issue was still happening, so I just had to live with it for a few months, then someone I suggested I flash my BIOS, which fixed it. Then a few months later the issue came up again, this time just the restarts without the freeze and feedback noise, and now it only happens during games. I figured flashing the BIOS fixed it before, so I tried it again by flashing the exact same BIOS, and the issue stopped again.

So now every few months I'll get a random restart or two, flash the BIOS again, and be fine for a while until it happens again.

Note: Sometimes the restarts will happen once, then not again for a while, even without a BIOS flash. That's why I'm not certain if it's the Mobo. Just pretty sure.
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
I think the answer to this is really simple. The best one you can afford. If you got the dough, go all out.
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
1080 Ti without a doubt if you plan on having higher settings in AAA games.
 
Looking for some help.

Currently rocking a GTX 780. I'll be buying a 1440p/165hz G-Sync monitor soon. I would like to play at 1440p/60fps minimum (preferably on high to max settings).

What's my best GPU upgrade option? 1070, 1080, or 1080ti?
Beefy as you can afford but what's your CPU? If you're getting a high refresh rate monitor you're gonna need a powerful CPU to send those frames to the graphics card fast enough.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.