"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Oct 1, 2014
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I've been holding out for a better upgrade from 4770K and GTX 960. NVMe and Optane memory look interesting (no m.2 slots *sob*), but I don't envision 4K anytime soon. My desk situation hard-limits me to about a 24" monitor.

Not that most of the Japanese games I'd play need even this hardware. Except modded Skyrim of course.
 
Nov 24, 2015
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Holy Thermals, Batman!

Seriously, does that run pretty hot in such a small case?
It’s actually not bad. The CPU, with an overclock doesn’t go past the mid 50’s when gaming and idles in the low 30s. This is mostly because of the blower style GPU which keeps the heat out of the case. There are 2 low profile 120mm fans under the GPU as well. The GPU does hit the high 70’s when gaming, and to keep the temps down I had to turn the blower up. It’s a little noisy but works as well as I hoped.
 
Dec 11, 2011
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Apr 17, 2013
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A better CPU cooler, and get a cheaper 500-550w PSU. Really, 650w is a lot more than what you'll need for an R7 and 1060.

PCPartPicker part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dLXcJV
Price breakdown by merchant: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dLXcJV/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($419.99 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.75 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($190.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($125.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($334.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Thermaltake - Chaser A31 Snow White ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA - B3 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($116.75 @ Vuugo)
Total: $1754.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-07 19:00 EST-0500
 
Aug 18, 2009
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Edit! I need to be budget conscious about this. Would a 1050ti 4GB be a good enough upgrade to play Hellblade and Wolfenstein 2 decently?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30258409&postcount=9780

I'm looking to upgrade this from 2011, but I don't really want to spend more than it would cost to get xb1x, is that possible? I'm going to play on a LG OLED65G6P so I'd like to have HDR and 4k possible. What do I need?


i5 2500K
ASRock P67 Extreme 4
Antec HCG-750W PSU
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 1333
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr III Power Edition/OC Graphics Card
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212
 
Apr 17, 2013
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Edit! I need to be budget conscious about this. Would a 1050ti 4GB be a good enough upgrade to play Hellblade and Wolfenstein 2 decently?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30258409&postcount=9780

I'm looking to upgrade this from 2011, but I don't really want to spend more than it would cost to get xb1x, is that possible? I'm going to play on a LG OLED65G6P so I'd like to have HDR and 4k possible. What do I need?


i5 2500K
ASRock P67 Extreme 4
Antec HCG-750W PSU
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 1333
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr III Power Edition/OC Graphics Card
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212
All you really need is a better graphics card. The 2500K is getting on a bit but it's still more than serviceable for games. Maybe upgrade to 16Gb of RAM too, but mainly, get the best graphics card you can afford.
 
Jul 25, 2004
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Edit! I need to be budget conscious about this. Would a 1050ti 4GB be a good enough upgrade to play Hellblade and Wolfenstein 2 decently?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30258409&postcount=9780

I'm looking to upgrade this from 2011, but I don't really want to spend more than it would cost to get xb1x, is that possible? I'm going to play on a LG OLED65G6P so I'd like to have HDR and 4k possible. What do I need?


i5 2500K
ASRock P67 Extreme 4
Antec HCG-750W PSU
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 1333
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr III Power Edition/OC Graphics Card
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212
4k will destroy a 1050ti. You could output 1080p and let the tv upscale internally. Not sure if the results would look great. They probably would since you got a very high quality tv set.
 
Dec 11, 2011
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A better CPU cooler, and get a cheaper 500-550w PSU. Really, 650w is a lot more than what you'll need for an R7 and 1060.
Hey thanks for the advice. Yeah I initially chose that cooler because it was cheap and it had good reviews. I kept the PC I currently have 7 years so if I'm to keep this new one for just as long, which is what I'm planning, then investing in a better cooler would probably be wise.

Same for the PSU. Pcpartpicker tells me the build outputs roughly 340w tops, which would make 650 overkill.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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Hey thanks for the advice. Yeah I initially chose that cooler because it was cheap and it had good reviews. I kept the PC I currently have 7 years so if I'm to keep this new one for just as long, which is what I'm planning, then investing in a better cooler would probably be wise.

Same for the PSU. Pcpartpicker tells me the build outputs roughly 340w tops, which would make 650 overkill.
A modular 500-550w 80+ Bronze PSU would be pretty ideal. Easier for cable management. Plenty of juice in it, and efficient.

For the heatsink, the Cooler Master 212 variants have pretty bad mounts. I know because I have one. They're serviceable otherwise, but I know that I'd be much happier with a different cooler than the one I have now and installing say, a Noctua, would've been a whole lot easier.
 
Sep 13, 2006
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Can anyone help me figure out my problem?

I have:
MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X 8G
MSI Z270-A Pro
i7-6700K
Windows 10 Pro
Corsair HX 750
16 Gig Corsair ram

Everything work except the GPU. When I boot, the EZdebug LED for the VGA lights up for about 10 seconds and then turns off before the windows login. When I try to install the drivers or GeForce Experience, it says that no nvidia GPU is found ... What can I do?
I connected one PCI-E cable from the PSU (8 pins) to the GPU with 6+2 pins and 6 pins. Do I need two PCI-E cables from the PSU to the GPU? The GPU lights work, the fans spin for the first few seconds and then turn off. But this might be due to the Zero Fan mode. I updated all the mobo drivers (when installing Win 10, not even the networks drivers worked!) but still nothing :( The BIOS shows my 2 8 gig RAM sticks and everything else is normal. I am currently typing this using my the onboard DP to connect to a Benq monitor. Tomorrow I will try and use a different GPU and see if that one works. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I tried all connections on the GPU, but what use does it have if the PC does not even recognize that a GPU is connected.

Edit 2: I went into the BIOS and there is a feature called BIOS explorer which shows what hardware etc. is connected. It does not show anything in the PCI-E x16 slot although the GPU is there. Gonna try and install the GPU in the 4x slot .... will this slow down my GPU somehow?

Edit 3: The PC did not even show me a picture in the other PCI-E slot ... What are the chances that both PCI-E slots being faulty versus the GPU being faulty? Gonna try a different GPU tomorrow, no off to bed.
 
Oct 4, 2012
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Can anyone help me figure out my problem?

I have:
MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X 8G
MSI Z270-A Pro
i7-6700K
Windows 10 Pro
Corsair HX 750
16 Gig Corsair ram

Everything work except the GPU. When I boot, the EZdebug LED for the VGA lights up for about 10 seconds and then turns off before the windows login. When I try to install the drivers or GeForce Experience, it says that no nvidia GPU is found ... What can I do?
I connected one PCI-E cable from the PSU (8 pins) to the GPU with 6+2 pins and 6 pins. Do I need two PCI-E cables from the PSU to the GPU? The GPU lights work, the fans spin for the first few seconds and then turn off. But this might be due to the Zero Fan mode. I updated all the mobo drivers (when installing Win 10, not even the networks drivers worked!) but still nothing :( The BIOS shows my 2 8 gig RAM sticks and everything else is normal. I am currently typing this using my the onboard DP to connect to a Benq monitor. Tomorrow I will try and use a different GPU and see if that one works. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I tried all connections on the GPU, but what use does it have if the PC does not even recognize that a GPU is connected.
One PCI-E cable should be fine but you can try two. They're all coming off the same rail though.

Does your BIOS have any GPU info? See if it's recognized there. Maybe perform a BIOS update.

Otherwise the best test is obviously to stick it in another system.
 
Sep 13, 2006
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One PCI-E cable should be fine but you can try two. They're all coming off the same rail though.

Does your BIOS have any GPU info? See if it's recognized there. Maybe perform a BIOS update.

Otherwise the best test is obviously to stick it in another system.
BIOS is updated, GPU is not being recognized in the BIOS (the BIOS explorer does not show anything in the PCI-E slot). Will try a different GPU tomorrow.
 

Dave_9200

Neo Member
Apr 26, 2014
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Hello guys, I was thinking to do a new build recently, so I was wondering what kind of case should be right for me...I'm kinda obsessed with temperatures so I want the coolest case in terms of temps, was thinking about the Corsair Air 740, what do you think guys? Anyway, apart from the case, I should buy this components :

CPU : i7 8700k
Cooler : Corsair h115i
Ram : G.Skill Trident Z 32gb 3000mhz
GPU : 1080ti
Mobo : MSI z370 Gaming pro carbon
PSU : Seasonic Prime 750w Titanium
SSD : Samsung 850 pro
 
Apr 17, 2013
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Hello guys, I was thinking to do a new build recently, so I was wondering what kind of case should be right for me...I'm kinda obsessed with temperatures so I want the coolest case in terms of temps, was thinking about the Corsair Air 740, what do you think guys? Anyway, apart from the case, I should buy this components :

CPU : i7 8700k
Cooler : Corsair h115i
Ram : G.Skill Trident Z 32gb 3000mhz
GPU : 1080ti
Mobo : MSI z370 Gaming pro carbon
PSU : Seasonic Prime 750w Titanium
SSD : Samsung 850 pro
Meshify C with two 140mm Noctua intake fans. It's one of the coolest cases in the majority of thermal tests by GamersNexus.
 
May 13, 2016
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Is anyone else here using G.skill's RGB ram sticks? I had to reinstall windows to find out if some of my backround programs were causing stuttering in games and once I reinstalled the rgb software the POS just keeps telling me "no modules found."

Tried reinstalling all the version but none of them worked. Turned pc off and even took off the power cord and the only leds that did not reset were the fuc#### ram's. Now im stuck with teal leds and nothing seems to work. Jesus christ buying these sticks was a huge mistake. Dont buy em people.

But anyways, does anyone have any experience with these sticks or ideas that could work?
 
Mar 9, 2013
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Sändersson;253022269 said:
Is anyone else here using G.skill's RGB ram sticks? I had to reinstall windows to find out if some of my backround programs were causing stuttering in games and once I reinstalled the rgb software the POS just keeps telling me "no modules found."

Tried reinstalling all the version but none of them worked. Turned pc off and even took off the power cord and the only leds that did not reset were the fuc#### ram's. Now im stuck with teal leds and nothing seems to work. Jesus christ buying these sticks was a huge mistake. Dont buy em people.

But anyways, does anyone have any experience with these sticks or ideas that could work?
only issue i remember being mentioned was conflict with asus motherboards and their rgb software.
 
Aug 27, 2013
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So it looks like this will be what I'm going with


CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($219.69 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($102.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($188.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - K272HUL Ebmidpx 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($259.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $1509.30

Gonna use my current PSU since it should be enough to cover this.
 
Oct 4, 2012
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So it looks like this will be what I'm going with


CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($219.69 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($102.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($188.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - K272HUL Ebmidpx 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($259.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $1509.30

Gonna use my current PSU since it should be enough to cover this.
Depends on use obviously but is 250GB enough storage? I game and that's like 4 games lol.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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So it looks like this will be what I'm going with


CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($219.69 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($102.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($188.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - K272HUL Ebmidpx 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($259.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $1509.30

Gonna use my current PSU since it should be enough to cover this.
Couple things.

Why not carry forward your existing Windows license to your new build and save 90 quid?
Consider getting a R5 1600 over the 1600X and overclock it to match performance.

Other than that, looks like a decent build, but between those two things, you could save $100 or so and have a cheaper build, or put that towards a better GPU.

Always welcome.

General consensus with water cooling from I've heard is something like 120mm of rad per component, plus another 120 for overclocking. Good to keep in mind if you decide to make any changes down the line.
 
Aug 27, 2013
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Couple things.

Why not carry forward your existing Windows license to your new build and save 90 quid?
Consider getting a R5 1600 over the 1600X and overclock it to match performance.

Other than that, looks like a decent build, but between those two things, you could save $100 or so and have a cheaper build, or put that towards a better GPU.
My current PC is still on Windows 7, so have to upgrade. Will look into the other chipset

Depends on use obviously but is 250GB enough storage? I game and that's like 4 games lol.
I have a 3TB hard drive in my current PC that I'm gonna use in addition to the SSD
 

Dave_9200

Neo Member
Apr 26, 2014
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Guys can you help me? I've build a new rig recently, but when I boot up the pc the EZ debug led of mobo illuminate...these are my specs :

CPU : i5 8600k
GPU : MSI gtx 1080 sea hawk
cpu cooler : corsair h100i v2
Mobo : MSI z370 gaming pro carbon
RAM : 16gb ddr4 3000mhz Corsair vengeance led
 
Apr 17, 2013
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Ok I've partly solved the issue...now the system is booting but only with 1 dimm of ram...so only in single channel, If I try dual channel it fails to boot...idk what to do now.
Try some general trouble shooting. You've know the problem, but there's a few things you could do to possibly fix or further localise the problem.

Try each stick of RAM in each different slot of the motherboard individually.
If one of the sticks doesn't work at all, then you know it's problem with the sticks, not the motherboard.
If the sticks work fine except in one slot on the motherboard, then it could be a problem with the mobo.

Check what frequency the RAM is running at in the BIOS. It should be 2133mhz unless you've changed that already to 3000mhz/2933mhz, in which case change it back to 2133mhz.
It could be a problem with compatibility in that case.

Finally, once you get it booting in any stable configuration, update your motherboard's BIOS if there's an update available as that could potentially fix the problem.


If you can't fix it, but can localise the problem to which component is the one causing the problem, then you can go the route of returning it for a replacement or contacting the manufacturer.
 

Dave_9200

Neo Member
Apr 26, 2014
45
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Try some general trouble shooting. You've know the problem, but there's a few things you could do to possibly fix or further localise the problem.

Try each stick of RAM in each different slot of the motherboard individually.
If one of the sticks doesn't work at all, then you know it's problem with the sticks, not the motherboard.
If the sticks work fine except in one slot on the motherboard, then it could be a problem with the mobo.

Check what frequency the RAM is running at in the BIOS. It should be 2133mhz unless you've changed that already to 3000mhz/2933mhz, in which case change it back to 2133mhz.
It could be a problem with compatibility in that case.

Finally, once you get it booting in any stable configuration, update your motherboard's BIOS if there's an update available as that could potentially fix the problem.


If you can't fix it, but can localise the problem to which component is the one causing the problem, then you can go the route of returning it for a replacement or contacting the manufacturer.
I've tried all the possible scenarios, the only way to boot the system is to put 1 single ram in single channel, on the first or the second dimm slot...#3 and #4 slot doesn't work...maybe is a mobo issue? Furthermore I've tried with different voltages, with XPM off (2133Mhz and 1.2V) and on (3000mhz and 1.5V). Thank you for the help anyway.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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I've tried all the possible scenarios, the only way to boot the system is to put 1 single ram in single channel, on the first or the second dimm slot...#3 and #4 slot doesn't work...maybe is a mobo issue? Furthermore I've tried with different voltages, with XPM off (2133Mhz and 1.2V) and on (3000mhz and 1.5V). Thank you for the help anyway.
That's sounds like you'll need to RMA your board, mate. Best of luck sorting it out.
 
Mar 21, 2016
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Can I get a ruling on this new build? I'm upgrading my (about to be) 5 year old build from this:

CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 ( upgraded since 2013)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey

to this (all prices on Amazon US):


CPU = Intel I7-8700k - $414.89 Amazon
CPU Cooler = NZXT Kraken X62 All-in-One 280mm CPU Liquid Cooling - $156.29
Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING - $209.99
Memory = G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200MHz - $209
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD - $127.99
Storage = Seagate 8TB Enterprise Capacity 3.5 HDD 7200RPM - $262.99
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING - $799.89
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold - $129.99
Case = Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - $189.99
 

Modu5

Neo Member
Apr 22, 2017
25
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Any recommendations for decent 2.0 speakers at $100-$150? I don't want a bass unit because I don't have enough room. Something black and compact.I wanted to get the audioengine 2 speakers but $300 CAD is a bit steep.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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Can I get a ruling on this new build? I'm upgrading my (about to be) 5 year old build from this:

CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 ( upgraded since 2013)I
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey

to this (all prices on Amazon US):


CPU = Intel I7-8700k - $414.89 Amazon
CPU Cooler = NZXT Kraken X62 All-in-One 280mm CPU Liquid Cooling - $156.29
Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING - $209.99
Memory = G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200MHz - $209
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD - $127.99
Storage = Seagate 8TB Enterprise Capacity 3.5 HDD 7200RPM - $262.99
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING - $799.89
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold - $129.99
Case = Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - $189.99
I'd hesitate to build at this point in time and to also throw so much of a previous build away when many of the parts are still relevant.
 
May 1, 2014
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I'd hesitate to build at this point in time and to also throw so much of a previous build away when many of the parts are still relevant.
If you're spending this much on computer parts I'd say money is no issue. And even if it was, you can sell many of those parts for a nice sum.

I'd say go for it. Don't see any obvious flaws. Personally I'd upgrade to 32GB of RAM when you're spending that amount of money anyway, but if it's only used for gaming 16 should be enough still.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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If you're spending this much on computer parts I'd say money is no issue. And even if it was, you can sell many of those parts for a nice sum.

I'd say go for it. Don't see any obvious flaws. Personally I'd upgrade to 32GB of RAM when you're spending that amount of money anyway, but if it's only used for gaming 16 should be enough still.
You don't get fat stacks in the first place without being frugal, though it's not solely down to price.


The Z390 board range is stated for early next year. Why bother with a Z370 at the point in time when the new boards are literally less than 2 months away.

As for For dropping the 1070 for a 1080Ti, why not make it last until later into next year and scoop up the Volta flagship card for the same price of buying a 1080Ti now?

Price inflation only really effects RAM for that build since coin mining has had largely no effect on 1080/1080Ti prices, but it's still something to consider.
 
May 1, 2014
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You don't get fat stacks in the first place without being frugal, though it's not solely down to price.


The Z390 board range is stated for early next year. Why bother with a Z370 at the point in time when the new boards are literally less than 2 months away.

As for For dropping the 1070 for a 1080Ti, why not make it last until later into next year and scoop up the Volta flagship card for the same price of buying a 1080Ti now?

Price inflation only really effects RAM for that build since coin mining has had largely no effect on 1080/1080Ti prices, but it's still something to consider.
I can see where you're coming from but there's always something better just around the corner. Why buy the flagship Volta card next year, when you can buy the flagship Volta 2 card for the same price just 8 months later or something? I've seen people delaying their builds indefinitely because of this way of thinking.

If you have the money, and you want the top of the line, then go for it, I'd say. Doesn't matter when you step in, there's always something better coming.
 
Apr 17, 2013
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I can see where you're coming from but there's always something better just around the corner. Why buy the flagship Volta card next year, when you can buy the flagship Volta 2 card for the same price just 8 months later or something? I've seen people delaying their builds indefinitely because of this way of thinking.

If you have the money, and you want the top of the line, then go for it, I'd say. Doesn't matter when you step in, there's always something better coming.
I know where you're coming from, but my train of thought isn't that there's something better coming, it's that a Z390 should be significantly better as an investment whereas Z370 is a dead platform.
Wait for that and build when it comes out. Keep hold of the 1070 (an already great card) for the new build until the new GPUs release next year.


It's not about waiting for the next big thing, it's about being a wise with spending and decisions.