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LG OLED TV owners - has anyone ever encountered (or better yet solved) the no signal problem?

QSD

Member
I've gone out and splurged on an LG OLED this christmas and although the picture quality is super impressive, I've been struggling with a problem getting my desktop PC's video output to display on the TV. My TV is in a different (adjacent) room to the TV so I need to bridge a significant distance. The problem is the LG TV seems EXTREMELY fickle about its HDMI inputs. I previously had a panasonic plasma, and the cable I was using previously produces a 'no signal' message from the LG (even though the panasonic worked perfectly). So I bought a new cable at significant cost. It worked well for a couple of weeks, and now all of the sudden we're back to 'no signal'. Checking the manual, it says that no HDMI cable longer than 3 M (!!!) is accepted, which basically makes the TV mostly useless for what I bought it for, since I use my desktop PC for almost everything these days, and there is no way of getting that within 3m of the TV. I struggle to understand how cable length matters and why a brand new cable that previously worked should stop working so quickly. I've tried several solutions like resetting to factory default and unplugging the tv and everything, but nothing seems to help. Anyone else struggle with this or have advice?
 

TrueLegend

Member
Turn off your display and then turn it on through the main power switch while your Pc is running. This seems like a Windows level or video driver level issue. Do a clean driver install with DDU.
 
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poppabk

Member
Try an HDMI repeater?
Can't attest as I have never needed one, but this seems like the exact use case.
 
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QSD

Member
Tried a certified HDMI 2.1 fiber optical cable?
I don't know about fibre optical, but the new cable is HDMI 2.1, I checked. It worked for a little while, but now it doesn't.
Try an HDMI repeater?
Can't attest as I have never needed one, but this seems like the exact use case.
This is supposed to boost the signal...right? If I knew it would work for certain, I'd buy it. I'll look into it some more, see if I can find some experiences

Turn off your display and then turn it on through the main power switch while your Pc is running. This seems like a Windows level or video driver level issue. Do a clean driver install with DDU.
What do you mean "main power switch?" I don't think the TV has a power button, there's only the on/off on the remote or I can pull the plug. I tried both of those.
I don't think it's a driver issue. I have an old laptop that works fine with the TV through a short HDMI cable, but if I plug that same laptop into the new long cable I bought for the desktop PC, it also yields 'no signal'

My PC is about 30 Feet away from my TV so I bought this Fiber cable and I am able to run 4K@120 with no issues. I did have an older Fiber cable that was rated for 4K@60 and it didn't work so make sure they mention 4K@120 in the specs.

Huh interesting. That cable is no longer available. Is there a cable that is still available that you would recommend? Or could you explain what do I need to look for?
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
I struggle to understand how cable length matters and why a brand new cable that previously worked should stop working so quickly. I've tried several solutions like resetting to factory default and unplugging the tv and everything, but nothing seems to help. Anyone else struggle with this or have advice?
Your cable with the plasma TV carried a lot less information over the signal. It was a 1080p 60fps SDR signal. With your OLED, you're sending over potentially 4K HDR at 60fps or higher. That's a lot more bandwidth needed and a more robust cable is needed to maintain signal integrity, and that's over short distances. When you increase cable length, you lose signal integrity, and it's only worse if your signal is as huge as the one coming from your LG OLED.

It's weird that it used to work and now it doesn't. Maybe something broke in the cable. Your solutions would be to use a beefier cable, an extender with active signal boosting, or something like a fiber optic cable.
 
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Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
You should also keep in mind lag for longer cable runs, if timing sensitive gaming is your thing.

 
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poppabk

Member
You should also keep in mind lag for longer cable runs, if timing sensitive gaming is your thing.

Have to imagine this is to do with the signal starting to breakdown (which the OP is alreadu having an extreme form of) and require time to reconstruct rather than actual transit time.
 
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hollams

Gold Member
Just look for one that has verbiage like below. They are more expensive cables so if you buy from Amazon is should be easy to return depending on where you live.


HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optic Cable Support 8K@60Hz, 4K@120Hz, 48Gbps, eARC Compatible​

 

Reallink

Member
If it's a long passive cable (i.e. thick and heavy) the weight exerted on the HDMI port will cause it to fail as gravity drags it slightly loose or it's jiggled by stepping on the cable or something. It may even fuck up the port on your TV or GPU, shit is sensitive as fuck. Even 18Gbps was an issue so I imagine 40/48Gbps is that much worse. You need an active fiber cable, I believe monoprice has some 2.1 certified ones for like $70 or $80.
 
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kittoo

Cretinously credulous
Go to additional/more picture settings and try turning these 2 settings off and on again whenever no signal happens-
'Instant game response' and 'HDMI ultra deep color'.
One of these always solves the problem for me, without turning the TV on/off or plugging the HDMI in and out. I am on a PC too.
 
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thefool

Member
Good thread to remind me to never buy an oled because I regularly use a massive hdmi cable.
 
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QSD

Member
OP here's some handy videos that talk about cable signal.



Man, gone are the days that you could hook up your PS2 to a TV with a coat hanger and two bits of string...

Go to additional/more picture settings and try turning these 2 settings off and on again whenever no signal happens-
'Instant game response' and 'HDMI ultra deep color'.
One of these always solves the problem for me, without turning the TV on/off or plugging the HDMI in and out. I am on a PC too.
I was really hoping this would work, but unfortunately it didn't. The menus on the 2021 TV are very unintuitive in their layout IMHO. I couldn't find 'instant game response', just 'game optimizer mode' which has it's own GUI bizarrely enough, but turning that on or off didn't help. HDMI deep color also didn't do much.

I use an HDFurry 8k Vroom to keep my PC HDMI input always active, even when the TV is off or on another input. I highly recommend it. https://hdfury.com/product/8k-vrroom-40gbps/

I like you have my PC in another room, I used an 8k fiberoptic HDMI cable, works perfectly .
Just look for one that has verbiage like below. They are more expensive cables so if you buy from Amazon is should be easy to return depending on where you live.


HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optic Cable Support 8K@60Hz, 4K@120Hz, 48Gbps, eARC Compatible​


If it's a long passive cable (i.e. thick and heavy) the weight exerted on the HDMI port will cause it to fail as gravity drags it slightly loose or it's jiggled by stepping on the cable or something. It may even fuck up the port on your TV or GPU, shit is sensitive as fuck. Even 18Gbps was an issue so I imagine 40/48Gbps is that much worse. You need an active fiber cable, I believe monoprice has some 2.1 certified ones for like $70 or $80.
I'm in the Netherlands, so will have to research what the european equivalents of these suggestions are. Sensitive as fuck is definitely true, I had no idea this would be an issue.
 

Reallink

Member
I'm in the Netherlands, so will have to research what the european equivalents of these suggestions are. Sensitive as fuck is definitely true, I had no idea this would be an issue.

I used to run a thick ass 25 foot passive cable from my PC to TV and it would work when it was new but seemed to start intermittently blacking out over time. This was just at 18Gbps. I figured out it was the weight of its girth causing the rigidity of the cable to change over time which would put enough drag the connector to blink it out periodically. Reseating it and propping up the cable with something so it's not being dragged down under its weight may fix it.
 
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sofakng

Neo Member
I use an HDFurry 8k Vroom to keep my PC HDMI input always active, even when the TV is off or on another input. I highly recommend it. https://hdfury.com/product/8k-vrroom-40gbps/

I like you have my PC in another room, I used an 8k fiberoptic HDMI cable, works perfectly .

I sent you a PM, but in case you don't see it -- what fiber cable are you using with the VRROOM?

HDfury says that only their branded fiber cable works and other fiber cables will cause drop-outs, etc.
 

QSD

Member
Wow is this topic still running? I ended up getting a fibre optic cable as recommended by most here and it works great now.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
I sent you a PM, but in case you don't see it -- what fiber cable are you using with the VRROOM?

HDfury says that only their branded fiber cable works and other fiber cables will cause drop-outs, etc.
They likely are talking about how *most* fiber cables on the market are cheap and fail quickly. My cable is an FSR DR-H2.1 and cost $400 for $100 when I got it, I think it might be a few dollars cheaper now. HDfury's cable is actually cheaper, and their support is awesome so I wouldn't hesitate going that route. I will say though my cable has never once had issues, but its also a production/business grade cable meant for studios. Most consumer cables don't go through testing and requirements it has.
 

sofakng

Neo Member
Thanks for the information. It looks like that cable is about $279.95 currently which is out of my budget.

My primary goal is to play my Xbox Series X and PS5 on both my upstairs and basement TVs at 4K120. I've already purchased the VRROOM but it's almost going to make more sense to sell it and just buy an extra PS5 or XBX.

This use case seems extremely rare as many people use it to split the signal between a projector and TV (in the same room).
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Thanks for the information. It looks like that cable is about $279.95 currently which is out of my budget.

My primary goal is to play my Xbox Series X and PS5 on both my upstairs and basement TVs at 4K120. I've already purchased the VRROOM but it's almost going to make more sense to sell it and just buy an extra PS5 or XBX.

This use case seems extremely rare as many people use it to split the signal between a projector and TV (in the same room).
Wasting money on electronics is basically my passion in life, so where you see too expensive, I see a dopomine release :p

Really though, my use case was a fully integrated house (in fact I bought 2 of those $400 cables so I can do bidirectional switching of screens regardless of if the devices are in my office or theater), but I also do this for a business and thus get to write almost all this stuff off.
 

sofakng

Neo Member
Yeah, I definitely understand what you're saying - haha.

I have the same idea of a fully integrated house. For example, I have a server rack in the basement which had my A/V gear (ie. Xbox One, PS4 Pro, Apple TV 4K, etc). I'd then use HDbaseT, HDMI matrices, and home automation (Control4) to control everything.

However, it still had a lot of disadvantages:

1) Controller range. Luckily the rooms I was sharing consoles weren't too far apart so it seemed to work OK.
2) Different TVs/speakers. Some rooms have 5.1 setups and others only have 2.0.
3) Complexity. Lots of opportunities for things to go wrong.

I'm sure a lot of people would think this is crazy, but it sure is a nice idea to be able to play XBX/PS5 (native, not streaming) in several rooms of the house.

I'm still chasing that dream with the VRROOM but I'll admit I'm about to give up. I'm just too lazy and stubborn to move my consoles between rooms so I keep looking for alternatives.
 
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