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dcll

Banned
I traded a 50 1.2 L yesterday for a 700-200 IS 2.8 ii, now deciding if it is worth keeping over my 70-300 IS. I know it is better but I don't even hardly use a telephoto and I am actually happy with the 70-300.

Also I am hoping someone can edit the top of a picture I took out of my car quicky, didn't notice until I got home
 
Camping here this weekend to mountain bike. The forecast unfortunately looks dire, so I might be snapping storm pics instead.

All images with a Galaxy S7 in this batch.

This is the most artistic photo I think I have taken, and probably the only photo that I "set up". This was taken on my birthday, and while I was with friends, I felt incredibly alone in the world, and perhaps even remorseful about things in my life. In some ways, I felt like this picture was taking a picture of a stylized heart with bright and dark spots. The sky is edited slightly to actually give it some color, it was almost entirely clipped out.





This is my modest camping set up.



One of the best things about camping here is you can mountain bike and have access to a bath. This water is very cold as it comes from the mountains.


This photo is cool because the light morning fog almost makes it seem like an HDR photo, which I never use on my phone. Sometimes I take photos like this and wonder why I don't actually own a camera.
 

betrayal

Banned
Somehow i don't get or miss notifications for this thread. :messenger_expressionless:

Some nice pictures here. I had a S7 a few years ago and it already was awesome for some photos.

Otherwise just to camp somewhere in nature I have planned for 10 years, but somehow it has not yet worked. It is about time i think.



I traded a 50 1.2 L yesterday for a 700-200 IS 2.8 ii, now deciding if it is worth keeping over my 70-300 IS. I know it is better but I don't even hardly use a telephoto and I am actually happy with the 70-300.

Also I am hoping someone can edit the top of a picture I took out of my car quicky, didn't notice until I got home

Hope this works for you.

 

dcll

Banned
Somehow i don't get or miss notifications for this thread. :messenger_expressionless:

Some nice pictures here. I had a S7 a few years ago and it already was awesome for some photos.

Otherwise just to camp somewhere in nature I have planned for 10 years, but somehow it has not yet worked. It is about time i think.





Hope this works for you.

Thank you so much!! That pic with with a Tamron 24-70 I think but it has been awhile
 

betrayal

Banned
Thank you so much!! That pic with with a Tamron 24-70 I think but it has been awhile

No problem.

By the way, is it possible that you are using a defective or decentered lens? The left side of the image is much blurrier than from the center to the right edge. Was the second picture (barn) taken with the same lens? Because that image is also clearly blurrier in some areas on the left side.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Not been active here lately, but went out for a preparation of making an ad for a gym, and collected some ideas. This is a frame from a very brief, casual clip trying to give an idea for the gym owner, who's this guy himself.

A frame from a 4K@120fps mode to 24fps in the S&Q mode.
shutter speed at 1/250.
f/2.8
70mm (Sigma 24-70mm art lens)
S-Cinetone, no additional editing.
ISO 160.
No extra lights, only natural light.



Some lights would've made it much more dramatic, but I'm still waiting for my GVM 1200D 3x light kit to arrive later this month to start shooting.




I'm so glad I've skipped 800D and went straight to 1200D that pack so much more power. Looking for Godox SZ150R, RGB as well rated at around 150-180w for bi-color regular light and 50-80w for RGB mode.

 
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Dai Kaiju

Member
So I got a sony rx100 m3 a couple years ago that just broke. I dont remember how much I paid for it but I feel like it had to be a t LEAST a few hundred dollars less then the current price of $750. Is there a similar camera that's more affordable? im looking to spend around $300-400. which is what I thought I paid for the m3.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
So I got a sony rx100 m3 a couple years ago that just broke. I dont remember how much I paid for it but I feel like it had to be a t LEAST a few hundred dollars less then the current price of $750. Is there a similar camera that's more affordable? im looking to spend around $300-400. which is what I thought I paid for the m3.

I think you better go with the ZV-1 in that case, even though if it's $750:

 

Dai Kaiju

Member
I can't go above $450. I wouldn't mind a decent zoom either and the rx100 m3 sucks in that department so any advice would be appreciated.

I had the Canon PowerShot SX420 IS 20.0 MP at one poinr. 42x optical zoom was really nice and the picture quality was pretty good too.
 
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I can't go above $450. I wouldn't mind a decent zoom either and the rx100 m3 sucks in that department so any advice would be appreciated.
If you liked the RX100, look into the RX10 miii. I had it for a few days and it was a neat zoom gadget that took some keepers.

It would be used and still be above your price, but I think you need to find something that interests you to the point you stretch. Otherwise, you may just end up with cameras not much better than a cell phone in another form factor.

I ended up with primes after my rx100. And an interchangeable lens system is a good thing, as I found zoom made me bad so you may not know how it will work out.
 

Hawking Radiation

Gold Member
Not sure if its right thread but have this bad boy on backorder to improve on my astrophotography

Steep learning curve for this hobby but ready for the next step up to start tracking the stars for longer exposures at lower ISO levels.
Arriving beginning of August and will post my first processed images in this thread.

Also have some stuff arriving from Amazon soon: Lens heater,

 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Not sure if its right thread but have this bad boy on backorder to improve on my astrophotography

Steep learning curve for this hobby but ready for the next step up to start tracking the stars for longer exposures at lower ISO levels.
Arriving beginning of August and will post my first processed images in this thread.

Also have some stuff arriving from Amazon soon: Lens heater,


Yeah astrophotography is one of the fields I wanna tackle, and to me it's the old school method: Throw money at the problem. So I'm getting the new, probably the best landscape astrophotography lens right now, the new Sony 14mm f/1.8 G Master lens. A was planning for the Sigma 14mm f/1.8 lens before this bad boy, and funnily they're priced similarly.

Do you have any attempts to share?
 

Hawking Radiation

Gold Member
Yeah astrophotography is one of the fields I wanna tackle, and to me it's the old school method: Throw money at the problem. So I'm getting the new, probably the best landscape astrophotography lens right now, the new Sony 14mm f/1.8 G Master lens. A was planning for the Sigma 14mm f/1.8 lens before this bad boy, and funnily they're priced similarly.

Do you have any attempts to share?
G Master good grief those things are pricey but very good lenses. Only major expense I would say for good astrophotography besides a camera is a star tracker.

I have 2 lenses. The 16mm Sigma F1.4 and 85mm Sony F1.8 for my astro.
Currently happy with these two lenses but would like a 70 - 300mm zoom for deep sky objects and might pick up a small guide camera with that.

That's the thing with astrophotography. Anything below 85mm is fine with a star tracker but anything over 85mm and you'll need to be accurate with your polar alignment and potentially get a guide camera to combat star trails.

Your new 14mm G-master will be amazing on a tracker. Any star tracker should do the job.
Cheapest and most affordable but very capable tracker is Move-Shoot-Move and no astrophotography is not hard to get into.

If you need me to post a few helpful tips let me know. I'll do the best I can. Im also still learning heaps at the moment. Its pretty much youtube whenever I get the chance during my work breaks, lunch, after work, even sitting on the toilet 😂
 

dr_octagon

Gold Member
any recommendations for a starting camera and lenses, I'm a novice when it comes to photography. i have been thinking of picking up a Sony, mainly for landscape shots.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
G Master good grief those things are pricey but very good lenses. Only major expense I would say for good astrophotography besides a camera is a star tracker.

I have 2 lenses. The 16mm Sigma F1.4 and 85mm Sony F1.8 for my astro.
Currently happy with these two lenses but would like a 70 - 300mm zoom for deep sky objects and might pick up a small guide camera with that.

That's the thing with astrophotography. Anything below 85mm is fine with a star tracker but anything over 85mm and you'll need to be accurate with your polar alignment and potentially get a guide camera to combat star trails.

Your new 14mm G-master will be amazing on a tracker. Any star tracker should do the job.
Cheapest and most affordable but very capable tracker is Move-Shoot-Move and no astrophotography is not hard to get into.

If you need me to post a few helpful tips let me know. I'll do the best I can. Im also still learning heaps at the moment. Its pretty much youtube whenever I get the chance during my work breaks, lunch, after work, even sitting on the toilet 😂

Yeah that 14mm G Master isn't coming any time soon. It's not like I can fork that kinda money in a regular basis but I'm going next for Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra Macro Lens:



Hope I can snatch it soon, it's cheap due to being full manual and I need it in potentially a biting midges documentary. Those fuckers are pretty tiny and hoping the 4K@120fps and 1080p@240fps modes would help me add some artificial stabilization when slowed down 4-5x, mostly for videography. Next would be Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens:



Amazing lens for fauna and flora, and can add creativity to ads:



Then comes the 200-600mm G Lens for birding, and sports if I'm lucky enough to compensate for its price:



It'll be long before I have the chance to get the 14mm G Master, but that's hopefully in my future plans as it can be great for landscapes, astrophotography and real estate/hotels "if I'm lucky".

any recommendations for a starting camera and lenses, I'm a novice when it comes to photography. i have been thinking of picking up a Sony, mainly for landscape shots.

It all depends on the budget you have in mind. You can actually get some great but affordable combos for that.
 
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Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
budget is around £500, be good to learn so it doesn't have to be overly fancy

I think this would be a good start with a 16-50mm lens combo (great for landscapes and other stuff) for £439.18:


 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Been busy trying to snatch the first ad contract. "Sketch" videos in 4K@120fps, S-Cinetone, 1/250 shutter, and ISO was set to auto. Should lock the ISO+exposure once going for useful footage. So far ok results:

(not photos, frames from 4K@120fps clips):

Exaggerated fire, not good for final footage :lollipop_tears_of_joy:



Focus was on the veggies, should've went with F/4 or 5.6 or went with closer 24-35mm instead of full zoom 70mm.



Hmm, meaningless video as he was still not cooking anything.:messenger_winking_tongue:



Slightly better, I think :)



Table seems perfect for night/dark juice filming/photography. Well, it was a mess with fingerprints and just melted ice inside :)



Seems to be too exposed, although at ISO 100 and 1/250 shutter speed video. Should've paid more attention to the zebras so I should've underexposed.



This video was good but that grill edge kinda killed it to me. Will try to avoid that next time. This was at around ISO 1250.



Screenshots made on Sony's Catalyst Browse. VLC can't even run these videos due to XAVC HS compression, I think.
 
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Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Testing... This time a photograph:

ISO 100
f/2.8
33mm (24-70mm Art Sigma)
1/8sec exposure
No flash, 3 LED RGB/CCT lights (GVM 1200D 3 light kit).

Improved color gradience in Sony's Imaging Edge Desktop, then slightly edited due to some dust on Luminar 4.



Not perfectly aligned but it was a quick, first time attempt. Used some ambient, far light on the right to give that fill and tried to match it at 3200K with 2 lights on different brightness setup and thrown a white blanket on them for diffusion. :lollipop_tears_of_joy: Don't have my diffusion tools yet.

Note: It's just water and ice, and due to 90-100% humidity here at our wet/rainy/overcast season (monsoon) didn't use that trick of spraying glycerin mixed with water.
 
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Aarbron

Member
WIP image of the Swan Nebula (M17). It is only 3hrs of exposure, wanting to get it to 10hrs, but damn clouds have rolled in for the past two weeks.

Trying to decide if I should lessen the amount/radius of the stars to bring the nebula more to the forefront.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
WIP image of the Swan Nebula (M17). It is only 3hrs of exposure, wanting to get it to 10hrs, but damn clouds have rolled in for the past two weeks.

Trying to decide if I should lessen the amount/radius of the stars to bring the nebula more to the forefront.

Simply gorgeous, man! Wonderful!
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Just got the Laowa 24mm f/14 probe (Cine model) lens:



Just stupid test



And

Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5X Ultra Macro​


With the light ring, pretty bright actually.




Quick test



Should go out and do something with those soon :)
 

Hawking Radiation

Gold Member


So I got my tracking mount (Star Adventurer 2i Pro) a week ago and took it out the other night for my first stab at tracked astrophotos and the above is the result on a frustrating but rewarding night for me. Had some mount issues and the connection to my Sony A6400 was producing some weird results. Like the SAM Console app is the app I use to shoot my images and instead of my camera pausing for 5 seconds between shots, it was taking 5 sec shots of the sky which meant it was taking images back to back without pausing. Weird behaviour and something i need to look into remedying. Also the mount wifi signal was piss poor so for majority of my imaging session I couldn't sit in my warm car while the mount is imaging. I had to be physically outside the car right next to the mount to maintain wifi signal.

Anyhow the above image is a single 55 second capture of the milky way and almost immediately I noticed more dark dust lanes in the milky way core compared to my previous images. I've finally gone beyond 13 seconds which I was limited to before I got my tracker. Next time I'm going to aim to get more precise polar alignment and shoot for 2 minutes. Hopefully I'll be able to capture a couple hours of data on the milky way.

Next imaging session I'm going to go big:
1 Hour total exposure (a series of 2 minute exposures combined)
Over 40 calibration frames to combat noise and vignetting
More precise polar alignment

Aiming big from the get go and I'm up for the challenge. I love this hobby 🤩
 
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betrayal

Banned
Hawking Radiation Hawking Radiation Do you have to drive relatively far into nature for such shots because of the light pollution?

I tried to shoot the milky way (FF 14mm 2.8 with 20-30 seconds SS), but without tracking mount. So it shouldn't be that difficult for some more simple pictures, but I just don't have any success.

I suspect, or rather hope, that this is simply due to light pollution. I tried it directly from home in a smaller town, where I would assume that the light is not so bad. While the location is red on a light pollution map, it also doesn't differentiate between New York, London, Beijing or small towns, that's why i thought it's probably ok anyway. But I'll likely have to change the location.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Playing around with the ISO, I'm really impressed. This is from a 4K@24fps clip, shutter speed at 1/50, f/2.8 (Sigma 24-70mm art). With a faster lens results would be crazy like f/1.4 or even f/0.95.

409,600 ISO was too much and blown away, so this is just 102,400 ISO: (4K video stills)





Then pushed it down to 8,000 ISO, still beyond what you can see with your naked eye which is more like 3,200 ISO at that shutter speed (1/50sec) and f stop (f/2.8).



Technology hasn't been this cheap ever.
 

betrayal

Banned
Great job!

If criticism is wanted: The very minor downward movement of the camera in the first scene kind feels strange to me, because it's the intro ("calm before the storm") for the more action-packed scene. But most people probably don't even notice that.
Otherwise, I think faster cuts would have been more dramatic and that would have fit more with the selected music. Also, for the mood you wanted to convey, I would not use a static camera position in some of scenes(0:33 - 0:37, 0:42 - 0:44) but depth movement to the front or back.
0:41 - 0:42 is without gimbal or area focus in post, right? It makes it look a little less professional.

This may come across a little too harsh, because it is a good video and it is clear that a lot of thought and time have gone into it, but I think negative criticism, even if it is sometimes not justified, is more valuable to grow and get better than emotionless praise. This is just my personal opinion & experience, which I could partly make myself when creating videos. Keep up the good work! :messenger_fire:
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Great job!

If criticism is wanted: The very minor downward movement of the camera in the first scene kind feels strange to me, because it's the intro ("calm before the storm") for the more action-packed scene. But most people probably don't even notice that.
Otherwise, I think faster cuts would have been more dramatic and that would have fit more with the selected music. Also, for the mood you wanted to convey, I would not use a static camera position in some of scenes(0:33 - 0:37, 0:42 - 0:44) but depth movement to the front or back.
0:41 - 0:42 is without gimbal or area focus in post, right? It makes it look a little less professional.

This may come across a little too harsh, because it is a good video and it is clear that a lot of thought and time have gone into it, but I think negative criticism, even if it is sometimes not justified, is more valuable to grow and get better than emotionless praise. This is just my personal opinion & experience, which I could partly make myself when creating videos. Keep up the good work! :messenger_fire:

I should only thank you, mate! I could use all kinds of negative criticism to improve. To be honest, this was a very quick job as I was going out of the gym but been asked to show something to agree on a more serious ad later. This one is not paid but compensated with an extra 1+ year membership.

I had to avoid many clips due to the funny, unorganized movements of them. Given more time instead of 1-day-work it should've been turned better. And I'll take notice with all the details you've given, with the intro being the most obvious as I was exhausted and laying on the ground using manual focus and handheld. :lollipop_tears_of_joy:

I'm expected to make more mistakes in the future and such criticism is priceless to me. Can't thank you enough!

PS: As for the gimbal I have the combo DJI RS2, but didn't have it in the car and it was a bit of a rushed job. Please be as harsh as possible next time. ;)
 
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Dural

Member
Just got back from Walt Disney World and took some pics with the Canon M200 with the 15-45mm kit lens. I'm a novice, just wanted some better pics than the iphone. Also took some 360 videos with a GoPro Fusion, worked fantastic for capturing reactions of the kids on ride.













 
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Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Just got back from Walt Disney World and took some pics with the Canon M200 with the 15-45mm kit lens. I'm a novice, just wanted some better pics than the iphone. Also took some 360 videos with a GoPro Fusion, worked fantastic for capturing reactions of the kids on ride.










Your photos are not visible and show privacy sign.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Not sure how to embed photos from Google Photo, updated the pics with links to them.

edit-found somewhere that generates a link to embed, hopefully they're working now.

Yup! Wonderful photos, mate! Would love to visit that place one day.:messenger_ok:
 

Dural

Member
Disney World is quite beautiful, a whole lot to photograph. I brought the mirrorless camera with and didn’t pull it out until day 6 of 8. Really regretting not using it earlier as the photos that I did take look so much better than the iPhone pics. It’s just so much more convenient to pull out the iPhone, especially with 4 kids.
 

Dural

Member
Thanks, Everest looks incredible at Animal Kingdom (the ride itself was great too).

So I didn't realize my camera was set to take a 3mp jpeg and RAW until I got home, I normally have it on full size jpeg and RAW, so I'm going to have to process the RAW images. What does everyone use for this? I know lightroom is popular but I've never used it, I was also looking at DxO Photolab and Luminar. Any suggestions?
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Thanks, Everest looks incredible at Animal Kingdom (the ride itself was great too).

So I didn't realize my camera was set to take a 3mp jpeg and RAW until I got home, I normally have it on full size jpeg and RAW, so I'm going to have to process the RAW images. What does everyone use for this? I know lightroom is popular but I've never used it, I was also looking at DxO Photolab and Luminar. Any suggestions?

I highly recommend Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR, they are pure sorcery and easy to get crazy results with so little knowledge.

Before



After (Luminar 4)



That's a near impossible task without the crazy AI in Luminar 4.

For reference with one click in Aurora HDR (Auto HDR then pushed the Shadows 75%, single image):



One time purchase, no subscription BS. Both are by Skylum and you get a special discount I think for both. There is also Luminar AI but don't have it which is even more automated.

Use RAW files for best results.
 
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betrayal

Banned
I highly recommend Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR, they are pure sorcery and easy to get crazy results with so little knowledge.

Before



After (Luminar 4)



That's a near impossible task without the crazy AI in Luminar 4.

For reference with one click in Aurora HDR (Auto HDR then pushed the Shadows 75%, single image):



One time purchase, no subscription BS. Both are by Skylum and you get a special discount I think for both. There is also Luminar AI but don't have it which is even more automated.

Use RAW files for best results.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I Luminar does nothing more than change exposure, shadows, highlights, etc.? In the example the dynamic range of the sensor is one of the most important factors, especially for recovering details from shadows in post processing.

With Lightroom, the result looks very similar after clicking "Auto" once, even though I could only test it with the JPEGs.

If you overdo it, you can really still bring out a lot more of the details (and probably some noise) that you don't see in the original (hair, etc.). This doesn't necessarily result in a beautiful or harmonious image, but it should be possible with most tools. Edited image below is drastically downsized to 2048px / 800kb compared to the original (first image). With RAW files even more should be possible. If you do the same in post processing with sensors with low dynamic range or with smartphones, then of course you don't get anything useful.

This is also one of the reasons why I find the 7RIV, or other cameras, so great, because it makes you realize how important and what advantages a good dynamic range has. Depending on the lighting conditions, this has enormous advantages and in many situations (strong dark/bright contrasts, backlighting, etc.) you can simply underexpose and then get a much better image in post processing after raising the shadows.



 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I Luminar does nothing more than change exposure, shadows, highlights, etc.? In the example the dynamic range of the sensor is one of the most important factors, especially for recovering details from shadows in post processing.

With Lightroom, the result looks very similar after clicking "Auto" once, even though I could only test it with the JPEGs.

If you overdo it, you can really still bring out a lot more of the details (and probably some noise) that you don't see in the original (hair, etc.). This doesn't necessarily result in a beautiful or harmonious image, but it should be possible with most tools. Edited image below is drastically downsized to 2048px / 800kb compared to the original (first image). With RAW files even more should be possible. If you do the same in post processing with sensors with low dynamic range or with smartphones, then of course you don't get anything useful.

This is also one of the reasons why I find the 7RIV, or other cameras, so great, because it makes you realize how important and what advantages a good dynamic range has. Depending on the lighting conditions, this has enormous advantages and in many situations (strong dark/bright contrasts, backlighting, etc.) you can simply underexpose and then get a much better image in post processing after raising the shadows.




Great points, but it does more than that while keeping the noise as low as possible.

Here, a drone photo after sunset, was getting dark, with +1 exposure in the drone. My mistake that I didn't know that it can shoot RAW.



Tried my best to bring details back, but too much noise comes with other apps. Here it is after Luminar 4, but with extensive editing and tweaking:



Shot with DJI Phantom 4 Pro, JPG. You can cheat, easily, like this:



Like using it commercially for a billboard.
 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
4K frame from yesterday, edited on Luminar 4:



Another video still (Wild Balsam flowers, Impatiens balsamina, surrounding a Vast Fig tree, Ficus vasta).



Another 4K still:



Used the PolarPro Basecamp VND Kit for the first time, wonderful kit!
 
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Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
Went to film bees today, using only Laowa's probe lens and just videos, no photos. Here are the frames.

Videos were between 24fps, 60fps, and 120fps in 4K.











Had to hide a bit so the could calm down, they were furious against anything black. It was amazing that one managed to penetrate the black rubber of the viewfinder!

 

Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
A 4K video still shooting while facing the sun, edited. My daughter, Rateel.



Using the PolarPro Basecamp matte box and the 2-5 stops VND filter + CPL to keep it at 1/250s and f/2.8, (4K@120fps 10-bit 4:2:2).



Keep an eye for this one though for comparison, I'm getting it myself and keeping that one for 200-600mm lens:

 
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Bo_Hazem

Gold Dealer
I've been working on some videos lately :) Here are some I made:

(Arabic only now, but working on subtitles and full English version later)



This guy is competing in Spain later next month:



And this one I slightly regret as it was quick and had some problems with the place not being organized properly, but should learn from it:

 
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