• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

NextGen Wheels peripherals PS4 and Xbox One Thread: NeoGaf Wheel Club Updates in OP

Luckily I bought the club sport pedals last gen so it was only a $60 investment for the cpx adapter. Now that I got everything hooked up I wouldnt willingly go back to the t3pa pedals.
 
D

Deleted member 752119

Unconfirmed Member
Have you tried a game from this-gen with the T500? I own a T500 and a TX(that is basically a T300RS with some minor disadvantages) and I prefer TX in 80-90% of the games and cars out there. The big difference is the ease of motion of the TX; the resistance you feel turning the TX is pretty much always coming from forces in the game and never from inefficiencies of the wheel mechanism. The T500 - even without any forces applied - not easy to turn (read: you can do stretching with your pinkie, it's that stiff), and that's annoying in ...actually in almost any not-GT-like car. Another example: You know the calibration movement of your T300 and how it overshoots the center-target and then swinging a little left and right around it until it stops moving? That wouldn't happen with the T500; as soon as the back-to-center force isn't applied anymore, the thing stops moving from it's sluggishness (it doesn't need a countering stopping force).

That being said, I agree on the pedals, but the T3PA ones aren't great either, clutch and throttle are the same mechanism and both too loose, the brake doesn't have options for stiffness outside of the spring-mod. I wish Thrustmaster would have some "premium" pedals with actual load cell mechanism available... I've considered buying Fanatec + CPX, but it would feel stupid to race with pedals that are double the price of what I paid for my TX originally (and I dislike the idea of using an adapter).

Actually haven't even used a T500, so thanks for info. Was just recommending based on how garbage the stock t300 pedals are for a $400 wheel/pedal set.

In that case I guess it's best to just spend the $500 for T300 + T3PA pedals or $550 for the T300 + T3PA Pro pedals. They're not top of the line by any means as you note, but the best semi reasonably priced option for people not hardcore enough into racers to shell out for something with a load cell, and a hell of a lot better than the flimsy, no-clutch pedals that come with the T300.
 
Actually haven't even used a T500, so thanks for info. Was just recommending based on how garbage the stock t300 pedals are for a $400 wheel/pedal set.

In that case I guess it's best to just spend the $500 for T300 + T3PA pedals or $550 for the T300 + T3PA Pro pedals. They're not top of the line by any means as you note, but the best semi reasonably priced option for people not hardcore enough into racers to shell out for something with a load cell, and a hell of a lot better than the flimsy, no-clutch pedals that come with the T300.

I mean, don't get me wrong, the T500 doesn't really have any other shortcomings, can put out quite a bit higher forces and practically never gets tired or noisy. Lifting up just the wheelbase makes the TX feel like a plastic-toy in comparison (and the T500 doesn't even have the power-supply built into the wheelbase). Just wanted to add this, so T500 owners don't shit on my opinion here. With the right game and car combination the T500 is still a premium wheel.
 

Kyolux

Member
Hi guys.

I may be tempted to get a wheel for Driveclub VR. I don't want to invest too much, but I'd really like to get my hands on a t150 as this seems like it's worth it for the FFB alone.

I'm probably not going to play a whole lot in the long run though so I don't want to invest too much.

Problem is anyway, I'm in Canada, and can't seem to find anywhere to buy the t150 (without it being marked up by shady sellers on amazon).

Any suggestions as to what I could get? (available in Canada)

I'm seeing a few t80 for $50-60 on kijiji and I feel maybe I should just go with that and forget FFB.
 
Hi guys.

I may be tempted to get a wheel for Driveclub VR. I don't want to invest too much, but I'd really like to get my hands on a t150 as this seems like it's worth it for the FFB alone.

I'm probably not going to play a whole lot in the long run though so I don't want to invest too much.

Problem is anyway, I'm in Canada, and can't seem to find anywhere to buy the t150 (without it being marked up by shady sellers on amazon).

Any suggestions as to what I could get? (available in Canada)

I'm seeing a few t80 for $50-60 on kijiji and I feel maybe I should just go with that and forget FFB.
Or buy a good T150/T300/G29, treat it well and sell it when everyone and their mother is looking for a good price on a wheel when GT Sport finally comes out.
Prices are wildly fluctuating, but always go really high up when a mass market wheel game comes out like Forza 6 or Project CARS, GTS will probably be even bigger than those 2.

Also, can I maybe sell you on giving Assetto Corsa a try, if you buy an FFB wheel (it feels fucking great!)?
250
 

Kyolux

Member
Or buy a good T150/T300/G29, treat it well and sell it when everyone and their mother is looking for a good price on a wheel when GT Sport finally comes out.
Prices are wildly fluctuating, but always go really high up when a mass market wheel game comes out like Forza 6 or Project CARS, GTS will probably be even bigger than those 2.

Also, can I maybe sell you on giving Assetto Corsa a try, if you buy an FFB wheel (it feels fucking great!)?
250

I don't think I'd want to get rid of it though once I have it. So probably not a good idea. XD

I'm more interested in arcade-ish racing games, like driveclub felt borderline fine for me. I can't really play Gran Turismo. This looks neat (Assetto), but don't think I'd enjoy it. My favorite racing games are like, Outrun2/2006, Top Gear on snes and super off-road/rock n roll racing.

I think I'll go with the t80 and live with the poorer experience if I get anything. It's mostly to show off to family and friends anyway.

But thanks for the help. :)
 

Jilt

Member
I don't think I'd want to get rid of it though once I have it. So probably not a good idea. XD

I'm more interested in arcade-ish racing games, like driveclub felt borderline fine for me. I can't really play Gran Turismo. This looks neat (Assetto), but don't think I'd enjoy it. My favorite racing games are like, Outrun2/2006, Top Gear on snes and super off-road/rock n roll racing.

I think I'll go with the t80 and live with the poorer experience if I get anything. It's mostly to show off to family and friends anyway.

But thanks for the help. :)

Why ask for help if you obviously had already made up your mind?
Ever felt the difference between the T80 and T150?
 

Kyolux

Member
Why ask for help if you obviously had already made up your mind?
Ever felt the difference between the T80 and T150?

I'm still unsure about what to do. That's why I asked for help.

No, I haven't tried either. I know FFB is awesome from experiencing it in arcades though.

I guess I'll start by trying Driveclub VR's demo this week. And I may just bite the bullet and get a $200 wheel if I feel like I'd get enough enjoyment from it.
 
I'm still unsure about what to do. That's why I asked for help.

No, I haven't tried either. I know FFB is awesome from experiencing it in arcades though.

I guess I'll start by trying Driveclub VR's demo this week. And I may just bite the bullet and get a $200 wheel if I feel like I'd get enough enjoyment from it.

The thing is, FFB can be a nice little effect ...not unlike a better controller rumble, but in racing sims it can also semi accurately simulate the feel of real steering wheel by modeling the forces from the tires/suspension that are acting on the steering levers.
It can be "oh, that felt kinda cool...", but it can also be "I'm fucking driving this CAR!"
 

Kyolux

Member
The thing is, FFB can be a nice little effect ...not unlike a better controller rumble, but in racing sims it can also semi accurately simulate the feel of real steering wheel by modeling the forces from the tires/suspension that are acting on the steering levers.
It can be "oh, that felt kinda cool...", but it can also be "I'm fucking driving this CAR!"

Yeah I know. I'm just usually not into driving games. That's the tough part. Also, I though I could buy it from dell.ca.. but it seems like it redirects me to the us site when I look at the wheel.
 

paskowitz

Member
Yeah I know. I'm just usually not into driving games. That's the tough part. Also, I though I could buy it from dell.ca.. but it seems like it redirects me to the us site when I look at the wheel.

The problem with that is that many games that are "arcade" or not sims, are actually harder and less fun to drive with a wheel since they are originally coded for and designed around a traditional controller. A lot of these sim games, experience the exact opposite. Crap with a controller (also why they are often perceived negatively by the general audience), but amazing with a wheel. That "I am DRIVING this car" feel cannot be understated. I would get the T150. That way, you can at least get the option to fully experience both sides.

Sim racing is one of those things were if you have even a mild interest, try a proper setup, you will maybe slowly, but certainly surely fall in love.
 

Kyolux

Member
Going by Canadian Computers later this afternoon to pick a t150. Thanks guys for convincing me to spend more money on gaming this month.

s-f17df0e5f922540d8d25021357ea53ac802dc854.gif
 

terrible

Banned
Went out and bought it. But it doesn't power up? Anything weird I need to do to start it up???

It should be pretty straight forward. Power plug into a power outlet, USB cable into PS4 or PC with the correct mode selected with the switch (PS3 mode for PC, PS4 mode for PS4). If it doesn't do anything then you may very well have a lemon and will need to get it exchanged. I'd try updating the firmware on a PC first to make sure it's not just that though.

Link here
 

Kyolux

Member
It should be pretty straight forward. Power plug into a power outlet, USB cable into PS4 or PC with the correct mode selected with the switch (PS3 mode for PC, PS4 mode for PS4). If it doesn't do anything then you may very well have a lemon and will need to get it exchanged. I'd try updating the firmware on a PC first to make sure it's not just that though.

Link here

Thanks. There was a spark and all when I unplugged it in the back of the wheel. (Trying to check if it was plugged correctly.) I'd assume the light would be lit if the power would go through correctly, no?

edit: Also.. I was a bit disappointed in wire lengths. I was missing about a feet to install it comfortably in my living room.
 

paskowitz

Member
Hi guys does anyone have any experience with ricmotech load cell for t500rs?

I had one a loooong time ago, when the first came out. It was ok, but nothing to really write home about. My biggest problem was it didn't feel "natural". Not to mention the gas and clutch just felt "off" in comparison.

Honestly you are FAR better off getting a Basher Boards CPX Adapter and a Fanatec CSP v3 or used v2 and hooking that up to your T500RS. IMO the TM pedals are garbage compared the CSPs. I actually liked the G25 pedals with an upgraded spring and foam piece more.

The Adapter is ~$55, you can sell your T500RS pedals for ~$50-100, CSP v3 is $300 (+shipping), CSP v2 is about ~$150+S. The Ricomotech is $170 and you only get a better brake pedal. Even if you have to pay $300 for a v3, it is worth it IMO.

With the CSPs you get the option to put in truly stiffer springs for all pedals and if you want an upgraded brake damper (v2's and v3s). I should also note I have beat the living crap out of my v2's and I have only needed to replace the throttle sensor once. They have been rock solid and a good long term investment (more so than other Fanatec products).
 
I've had one before, yep. What would you like to know?
How does it feel, used to have csp v1!? Is it improvement over standard brake on t500!?
I had one a loooong time ago, when the first came out. It was ok, but nothing to really write home about. My biggest problem was it didn't feel "natural". Not to mention the gas and clutch just felt "off" in comparison.

Honestly you are FAR better off getting a Basher Boards CPX Adapter and a Fanatec CSP v3 or used v2 and hooking that up to your T500RS. IMO the TM pedals are garbage compared the CSPs. I actually liked the G25 pedals with an upgraded spring and foam piece more.

The Adapter is ~$55, you can sell your T500RS pedals for ~$50-100, CSP v3 is $300 (+shipping), CSP v2 is about ~$150+S. The Ricomotech is $170 and you only get a better brake pedal. Even if you have to pay $300 for a v3, it is worth it IMO.

With the CSPs you get the option to put in truly stiffer springs for all pedals and if you want an upgraded brake damper (v2's and v3s). I should also note I have beat the living crap out of my v2's and I have only needed to replace the throttle sensor once. They have been rock solid and a good long term investment (more so than ]
I looked into that option but money is really tight :-(. Got a 20% discount on load cell.
 

terrible

Banned
Thanks. There was a spark and all when I unplugged it in the back of the wheel. (Trying to check if it was plugged correctly.) I'd assume the light would be lit if the power would go through correctly, no?

edit: Also.. I was a bit disappointed in wire lengths. I was missing about a feet to install it comfortably in my living room.

The spark is pretty worrying lol. That's obviously not normal. I don't think the light goes on until both the power cable and USB cable are connected though.
 

paskowitz

Member
How does it feel, used to have csp v1!? Is it improvement over standard brake on t500!? I had one a loooong time ago, when the first came out. It
I looked into that option but money is really tight :-(. Got a 20% discount on load cell.

So you currently have a CSP v1?

I haven't used the v1 but I would assume from what I remember at the time, the T500RS loadcell is a bit better. 20% is a pretty good deal.

Also, I just looked at eBay... dayum the Clubsport line is holding value better than I thought. Only down about 20-30% of MSRP after all these years.
 
So you currently have a CSP v1?

I haven't used the v1 but I would assume from what I remember at the time, the T500RS loadcell is a bit better. 20% is a pretty good deal.

Also, I just looked at eBay... dayum the Clubsport line is holding value better than I thought. Only down about 20-30% of MSRP after all these years.
Sold Csp v1 2 yrs ago. If its better even by a small margin then i will be happy as i loved csp v1. All this f**k up with fanatec support on ps4 made my sell everything wheel (csr elite), cap v1 and shiffters and went with thrustmaster this gen, even got brand new t500rs for 360€.
 
How does it feel, used to have csp v1!? Is it improvement over standard brake on t500!?

It was the first loadcell brake that I owned, and by the measure of it being a loadcell, I thought it was great. You really feel that extra resolution, for lack of a better word, with trail braking. Peeling off the brake comes a lot more naturally, and efficiently.

That said, pedal travel is severely impacted, and not everyone will like that. Personally I didn't mind the trade off, but it's not going to make the pedal feel better if that's what you're hoping for. It's purely a performance enhancement.

I can't personally compare it to any Fanatec product, but people whom I trust told me they prefer it to v1/2 CSP purely because they felt the loadcell in the Fanatec was not very good. Too much of a digital feel. I suspect the V3s are better, but I can't say.

Now the other two pedals on the Fanatec are much better, and that alone would be worth going in that direction.

The Ricmotech is very expensive too, as I'm sure you know. The loadcell he uses will run you $90 or so on EBay, so it's not like he's ripping you off, but it's still not a cheap upgrade. Personally I wouldn't even consider it unless you're competing seriously within what ever sims you run. Don't buy it just to beat on AI.

Before the Ricomech loadcell I had the Basherboards bushings mod, and was really impressed with how well that worked over stock. For $15 bucks, or whatever, that offered great bang for the buck.

I use ProtoSimTech PT1s now, and they're way above anything you'll get from the more mainstream companies. If I had known then what I know now, I would have never gone through several incremental steps, and just gone straight for something I'm unlikely to replace for a very long time.
 

paskowitz

Member
It was the first loadcell brake that I owned, and by the measure of it being a loadcell, I thought it was great. You really feel that extra resolution, for lack of a better word, with trail braking. Peeling off the brake comes a lot more naturally, and efficiently.

That said, pedal travel is severely impacted, and not everyone will like that. Personally I didn't mind the trade off, but it's not going to make the pedal feel better if that's what you're hoping for. It's purely a performance enhancement.

I can't personally compare it to any Fanatec product, but people whom I trust told me they prefer it to v1/2 CSP purely because they felt the loadcell in the Fanatec was not very good. Too much of a digital feel. I suspect the V3s are better, but I can't say.

Now the other two pedals on the Fanatec are much better, and that alone would be worth going in that direction.

The Ricmotech is very expensive too, as I'm sure you know. The loadcell he uses will run you $90 or so on EBay, so it's not like he's ripping you off, but it's still not a cheap upgrade. Personally I wouldn't even consider it unless you're competing seriously within what ever sims you run. Don't buy it just to beat on AI.

Before the Ricomech loadcell I had the Basherboards bushings mod, and was really impressed with how well that worked over stock. For $15 bucks, or whatever, that offered great bang for the buck.

I use ProtoSimTech PT1s now, and they're way above anything you'll get from the more mainstream companies. If I had known then what I know now, I would have never gone through several incremental steps, and just gone straight for something I'm unlikely to replace for a very long time.

The digital problem with the CSP pedals was because people didn't connect the USB from the pedals directly to the computer. In that config it had good resolution. That being said, I need to start budgeting for a set of hydraulic pedals.
 
It was the first loadcell brake that I owned, and by the measure of it being a loadcell, I thought it was great. You really feel that extra resolution, for lack of a better word, with trail braking. Peeling off the brake comes a lot more naturally, and efficiently.

That said, pedal travel is severely impacted, and not everyone will like that. Personally I didn't mind the trade off, but it's not going to make the pedal feel better if that's what you're hoping for. It's purely a performance enhancement.

I can't personally compare it to any Fanatec product, but people whom I trust told me they prefer it to v1/2 CSP purely because they felt the loadcell in the Fanatec was not very good. Too much of a digital feel. I suspect the V3s are better, but I can't say.

Now the other two pedals on the Fanatec are much better, and that alone would be worth going in that direction.

The Ricmotech is very expensive too, as I'm sure you know. The loadcell he uses will run you $90 or so on EBay, so it's not like he's ripping you off, but it's still not a cheap upgrade. Personally I wouldn't even consider it unless you're competing seriously within what ever sims you run. Don't buy it just to beat on AI.

Before the Ricomech loadcell I had the Basherboards bushings mod, and was really impressed with how well that worked over stock. For $15 bucks, or whatever, that offered great bang for the buck.

I use ProtoSimTech PT1s now, and they're way above anything you'll get from the more mainstream companies. If I had known then what I know now, I would have never gone through several incremental steps, and just gone straight for something I'm unlikely to replace for a very long time.
thx for a great writeup and answers :)
 

C-Sword

Member
Noob question, I'm thinking about buying my 1st wheel. Do I really need to buy a stand as well? Will it stay in position if I simply put it on my table?
 
My ricmotech load cell for t500 pedals have arrived. I will install them and post some impressions later this week. This was the cheapest option for me. Paid them 140$ and thats like 115Euro. Croatian customs didnt charge me with anything and didnt have to pay any VAT :).
 

Jilt

Member
Noob question, I'm thinking about buying my 1st wheel. Do I really need to buy a stand as well? Will it stay in position if I simply put it on my table?

It depends on your table. Also if you get a wheel with FFB.
Most wheels can be clamped to the table or desk. You need pedals to go with that and they tend to slip if not on carpet.
If you have a permanent setup, clamping to desk is okay.
If you are a racer who has to get rid of the wheel when done racing, I would advice a wheelstand. The wheel is firmly on it, the pedals too. When finished, disconnect, fold up and put it out of the way.

Example i found somewhere on this forum:
27489922285_ba58227683_o.jpg
 

paskowitz

Member
BTW once you learn how to brake on a load cell, using pressure instead of travel, you will become a much faster driver. Your foot and senses remember force/pressure more than distance. This is why race car brakes are so stiff and operate on the same principle.
 
installed everything. tried the asssetto corsa on ps4 and its much better then the normal t500 brake. but god damn its stiff :), even on soft brushing. would love to have a little more pedal travel. 140$ well spend and would recommend to any t500 owner. modulation of braking is much more natural then before. will try it with pcars tomorrow as it shows the brake pressure.
 
installed everything. tried the asssetto corsa on ps4 and its much better then the normal t500 brake. but god damn its stiff :), even on soft brushing. would love to have a little more pedal travel. 140$ well spend and would recommend to any t500 owner. modulation of braking is much more natural then before. will try it with pcars tomorrow as it shows the brake pressure.

Be sure to remember to set the brake linearity, or "force factor", or "gamma", or whatever your sims of choice call it to zero, so your push is linear.
 

Gedi

Neo Member
So my other half is getting me a PS4 steering wheel for my birthday next week and was looking to spend up to £200, which meant I was eyeing up the GT29.

Now that this has dropped to £149.99 (at Amazon UK and Currys) the cost of buying the Shifter with it is the same price. The only racing games I currently have are DriveClub (plus PSVR), F1 2016 and Dirt Rally. Presumably DC and DR are compatible with the stick but is that definitely the case?

In all honestly I'm not going to use it very frequently but she couldn't think of what to get me and I suggested that as another new toy to go with all my other toys and accessories. I think maybe getting the stick is a bit 'overkill' for me, even if she is willing to spend that amount.
 
So my other half is getting me a PS4 steering wheel for my birthday next week and was looking to spend up to £200, which meant I was eyeing up the GT29.

Now that this has dropped to £149.99 (at Amazon UK and Currys) the cost of buying the Shifter with it is the same price. The only racing games I currently have are DriveClub (plus PSVR), F1 2016 and Dirt Rally. Presumably DC and DR are compatible with the stick but is that definitely the case?

In all honestly I'm not going to use it very frequently but she couldn't think of what to get me and I suggested that as another new toy to go with all my other toys and accessories. I think maybe getting the stick is a bit 'overkill' for me, even if she is willing to spend that amount.
I have the shifter and to be honest, it's not great. It doesn't feel anything like a real car's shifter, it's too loose. So in all honesty, I just stick to the paddles.
 
Yea I've tried the stick as well and can echo the comments above.

However, I hate using the padles when I know I'm driving a car that would have never had them. Sounds silly but it does break the immersion a bit for me.
 

Qwyjibo

Member
Well, I ordered a Thrustmaster T300RS during the BF sales and looks like it's going to be delivered today. It'll replace my DFGT. Now my only concern how my Wheel Stand Pro will handle it. From looking at pictures of recent ones, mine doesn't have the same mounting holes so that might be a problem. I might have to get creative or just use the clamp and hope it holds up.
 

isamu

OMFG HOLY MOTHER OF MARY IN HEAVEN I CANT BELIEVE IT WTF WHERE ARE MY SEDATIVES AAAAHHH
Testing to see if imgur pics work

p5fwPWX.jpg
 

Karak

Member
Can someone give me a bit of assistance here. I am seeing reports that the Logitech G920 pulls to the left like some of the other wheels for most users after an unspecified amount of time. And this morning after weeks of gaming, including racing for like 6 prior mine started doing it as well.
So I reached out to 3 other folks who bought it. And every single one does this on a couple different games both on Xbox One and PC.

All I see when I search this are complaints from day one, thousands of them. But no real fixes. Anyone know whats up? :(
Thanks
 

Mascot

Member
PS4 Fanatec owners: a mate reports that the latest Cronusmax hardware/firmware recognises his CSR Elite as a G29, and he's been playing Assetto Corsa with it flawlessly. No input lag, all FFB present and correct, no messing about connecting to a PC etc.

PS4 might be redeemed for £50..!

Anyone here have any experience with it?
 
PS4 Fanatec owners: a mate reports that the latest Cronusmax hardware/firmware recognises his CSR Elite as a G29, and he's been playing Assetto Corsa with it flawlessly. No input lag, all FFB present and correct, no messing about connecting to a PC etc.

PS4 might be redeemed for £50..!

Anyone here have any experience with it?
Regarding FFB or wheel (could not test it) i can't comment on Cronusmax, but everything else that they advertised is indeed working brilliantly so there should be any reason to doubt them. I use it for FPS on ps4 (keyboard and mouse connected to PC)
 
Looking at
G29 - 149 POUNDS
Stick - 38 Pounds
GT Omega stand - 110 Pounds

Feels like the Wheel and pedals is a Nice deal but to get the whole package its add up. Same Price as my ps4 slim and 7 games with it..

Any thoughts of the G29 being forwward compatible with a likely ps5? How was it with the G27? Kind of important for the investment :)

Guess Dirt rally and F1 2016 are good games for it?
 

Mascot

Member
Does anyone on PS4 using a Fanatec wheel (especially the CSR Elite) and CronusMAX Plus to emulate a Logitech G29 know how the HELL to simulate the PS button on the wheel? I read on the CM forums that it was L2 and R2 pushed simultaneously, but this does not seem to work. I can't accept race invites in Assetto Corsa without a PS button.

In this internet age it should not be this hard getting information on this. It's driving me mad.

FUCK YOU Sony for making me jump through these hoops with perfectly good hardware, you fucking cock-blocking assholes.
 
Does anyone on PS4 using a Fanatec wheel (especially the CSR Elite) and CronusMAX Plus to emulate a Logitech G29 know how the HELL to simulate the PS button on the wheel? I read on the CM forums that it was L2 and R2 pushed simultaneously, but this does not seem to work. I can't accept race invites in Assetto Corsa without a PS button.

In this internet age it should not be this hard getting information on this. It's driving me mad.

FUCK YOU Sony for making me jump through these hoops with perfectly good hardware, you fucking cock-blocking assholes.
Can you use also normal controller....?
There is probably a script that enables l2 r2 push...
 

shandy706

Member
FUCK YOU Sony for making me jump through these hoops with perfectly good hardware, you fucking cock-blocking assholes.

This is basically how I feel about Microsoft/Sony/wheel makers in general. They could easily make all these wheels work across all hardware.

I have a Playseat/TMX Pro setup, with the TH8A Shifter. Like $800 worth of hardware, and I can only use my wheel on the X1/PC natively.
 

Mascot

Member
Can you use also normal controller....?
There is probably a script that enables l2 r2 push...

If I activate a DS4 the wheel disconnects or spazzes out about ten minutes later.

I need to look into this scripting thing and play with Cronus Pro software. I haven't had to delve into any of that as my CMP came from a friend already updated and set up.
 
Top Bottom