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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
They counteract the natural swaying movement humans produce when holding a camera via gyroscopes. And, this may be a dated opinion but generally in lens IS implementations are usually more effective than in body but in body IS has the huge benefit of applying IS to any lens mounted to it. Also not sure about camera phone with IS but DSLR bodies with in body IS are usually good up to 2 stops or more. The latest generation of Canon lenses with IS are good up to 4 stops.
Here's a great graph from DPReview that shows how useful Image Stabilization is...
DPReview IS test said:
This is with Canon's latest 70/200 f/2.8 MKII lens (costs over $2K). Shooting at 1/60s at 200mm is absolutely ridiculous and really makes the lens versatile.
BigJonsson
Member
Canon IS is so damn expensive though =/
Glad I was able to get the 55-250mm IS for a really good price
Glad I was able to get the 55-250mm IS for a really good price
They counteract the natural swaying movement humans produce when holding a camera via gyroscopes. And, this may be a dated opinion but generally in lens IS implementations are usually more effective than in body but in body IS has the huge benefit of applying IS to any lens mounted to it. Also not sure about camera phone with IS but DSLR bodies with in body IS are usually good up to 2 stops or more. The latest generation of Canon lenses with IS are good up to 4 stops.
Here's a great graph from DPReview that shows how useful Image Stabilization is...
This is with Canon's latest 70/200 f/2.8 MKII lens (costs over $2K). Shooting at 1/60s at 200mm is absolutely ridiculous and really makes the lens versatile.
so would camera phones be considered in-lens IS? or is theirs more software related? (if such a thing even exists)
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
I'm not exactly sure about camera phones but I would think in-lens IS would be a rarity due to how thin the unit has to be. For camera phones that do have IS its probably sensor based IS but I'm just assuming with this.
phisheep
NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
in my opinion, you should never choose based on camera bodies, as that tech keeps changing, fast. olympus/panasonic have the most comprehensive set of lenses so far among the mirror less systems. and the lenses are really good quality, both the panasonic ones, and the olympus zuico ones. they cover all the focal ranges you could ever hope for.
camera phone, and small point and shoot IS is software based, they just jack up the iso and increase the shutter speed during low light scenes. the camera body based IS and lens based IS systems are intricately engineered control systems that compensate for the photographer's natural hand movements.
It really depends on the budget. A 5n plus a kit lens is still more flexible than a m43 with a kit. 5n does better in low light and has in body correction for the kit lens. But its in the $600 range.
If you are a student and want to learn. IMO Samsung is still the cheapest. 300 get you a NX100 w/ a kit lens. It has hotshoe! And cheap manual lenses work better on bigger sensor. The Koreans also offer very good value for mid range primes.
If your budget is in between then I would get the GF2 kit and spend the extra money on a prime and/or a tele zoom. I would stay on the AF side.
The main problem of the NEX system is really missing a good wide angle and a good portrait lens. It does however offer a very cheap ultra wide option. I can get a body with the E16 and the ECI1 for $400-450. And I can get to 18mm eqivalent w/ decent IQ. Thats very rare in any system. Thats why I am keeping at least NEX body.
So in conclusion, which system to pick depends on how much you plan to spend in the next 2-3 years. Thats my two cents.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Fuck. I already own two damn Nikkor Ai lenses. I should probably jump ship from Canon. 'Lawd, I'ma be getting a Ricoh or a damn Nikon FF this year. I needs it.
BuggyDClown
Member
Just got the final parts. My shoulder cam rig is done. Anyone need any video work? I know a camera operator who has an itch to use this ASAP. Haha it seriously kicks ass though.
BuggyDClown
Member
Overall about 600 after tax give or take 50$ then again thats mostly because I went with red rock for the cheese plate, and handgrip as well as manfroto for the mounting clip and quick release. The most expensive piece was the D3 follow focus, which was great for it's price.
yeah no. it has no video functions and it comes with a kit lens which you absolutely don't need. also i've had the camera and it is so light. if its your first DSLR, you can get just the t2i for a bit more. If its not your first DSLR, get a used 40/50D, especially if you don't need video recording. the 40/50d is older but its way more durable and having separate controls for aperture/shutter speed is a must if you plan on shooting manual.
you are shooting manual, right?
radios shipping overview
Member
I played with cameras while I was at B&H on the weekend. I wasn't interested in the Fuji X10 at all, but I messed with it some, and it's a really pretty and well-made little camera. The OVF is a nice idea, but I don't like the lack of information in it. AF was speedy, and I saw the same screen-freeze that you see in videos of the X-Pro1's AF performance.The finish, build, and haptics are great (I daresay Leica-like). If the X10 is any indicator of what we can expect with the X-Pro1, then I'm even more excited for it.
On the other hand, I tried out B&H's now well-worn X100 demo model, and I'm glad I never bought one. It's too small for my big hands, and the cheapo digicam controls on the back are crap. It feels like a toy. X-Pro1 go!
On the other hand, I tried out B&H's now well-worn X100 demo model, and I'm glad I never bought one. It's too small for my big hands, and the cheapo digicam controls on the back are crap. It feels like a toy. X-Pro1 go!
Got this really simple (and portable) shoulder rig by Swedish Chameleon today.
I got it on a sale too, ordinarily the Swedish Chameleon SC3:Tiny retail for more than $200 but i got it for $40. Yeah, I'm pretty happy about that...
You can read more about it here:
http://swedishchameleon.se/?page_id=1979
I got it on a sale too, ordinarily the Swedish Chameleon SC3:Tiny retail for more than $200 but i got it for $40. Yeah, I'm pretty happy about that...
You can read more about it here:
http://swedishchameleon.se/?page_id=1979
Picked up a SB-700!
Really like it, much better size/weight than lugging around the SB-900.
It misses a few features (repeating flash, auto mode, and no PC sync connectors...) and is slightly less powerful, all for $200 less money!
Playing around (with meat) used my SB-r200 for a side fill light.
I need to get the little nikon IR pass filter for the built in flash commander. OR just get the SU-800 commander. Seems expensive for what the built in flash provides for free though! Although the SU-800 does provide another group for wireless control.
Really like it, much better size/weight than lugging around the SB-900.
It misses a few features (repeating flash, auto mode, and no PC sync connectors...) and is slightly less powerful, all for $200 less money!
Playing around (with meat) used my SB-r200 for a side fill light.
I need to get the little nikon IR pass filter for the built in flash commander. OR just get the SU-800 commander. Seems expensive for what the built in flash provides for free though! Although the SU-800 does provide another group for wireless control.
Got this really simple (and portable) shoulder rig by Swedish Chameleon today.
I got it on a sale too, ordinarily the Swedish Chameleon SC3:Tiny retail for more than $200 but i got it for $40. Yeah, I'm pretty happy about that...
You can read more about it here:
http://swedishchameleon.se/?page_id=1979
Wow, this exactly what I'm looking for. Where can a get one/buy one from? any chance of getting a sale price too?
CrudeDiatribe
Member
I've never noticed a problem with the built-in flash set to '--' with my D90 & off-camera SB600.
It's usually not, unless you are doing close up stuff.
This is without anything blocking the pop up:
This is with my hand infront of it.
The main problem is the control signal has to fire when the shutter is open, it is very weak, but at this close range the effect is very visible.
Supposedly, you can use a piece of unexposed (but developed) slide film and that will block the visible light but allow the IR signal to pass to the remotes.
I think I am going to try and dig through some old slides and find a suitable piece and rig it to my gary fong puffer.
Regarding the sale price, I don't suppose you live in Sweden?
Anyway, there's a list of dealers for their products:
http://swedishchameleon.se/?page_id=17
And if you're feeling a bit DIY you could probably build something very similar using off-the-shelf parts.
Oh, where might one find that deal?
bean breath
Member
I'm thinking it'll just be a better looking Panasonic G3.
GH2 with inbody IS.
345triangle
Member
after coming back from CES i really want an x-pro1. so expensive but feels so worth it.
my favourite osaka camera shop just shut down! bic and yodobashi are good, another one to try is kamera no kitamura in namba city (in the basement next to uniqlo) which has a decent used selection and film lab.
my favourite osaka camera shop just shut down! bic and yodobashi are good, another one to try is kamera no kitamura in namba city (in the basement next to uniqlo) which has a decent used selection and film lab.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
The sunswatter and sunbounces I ordered came in today. Wee!
Only thing I do not understand is that they do not have any focus peaking. Focusing by zooming in is pretty clumsy imo. I feel that thats more important than fuji-made m-mount adapter..
Awesome
learnt the basics on my dads old OM2 so that's a nice touch of nostalgia there if the camera turns out to be any goodCrudeDiatribe
Member
Ah, of course.
I had read that as well, but it didn't matter for me (my macro lens is AI-S, so I can't use a strobe with it on my D90).
chaostrophy
Member
I'm interested. Wondering what the price will be though...I guess it'll have to be higher than the E-P3, which is already more expensive than the G3 despite the G3 having more features (better sensor, built in EVF, articulated screen). I've been tempted to get the G3 with the 20/1.7 lens to replace my LX3 as a carry-everywhere camera, because I really want a eye level viewfinder.
reggieandTFE
Member
4/3 rumors has the price at $1100. That will probably be body only. I'm looking to unload my E-p3 in anticipation of the new OM cam if anyone is interested.
I want to step up from my S95 to a compact mirrorless system for my travel photography, but it's all pretty impossibly annoying to decide on.
The tech whore in me says that investing in a M4/3 system is jumping into an already-obsolete product line because 2012 looks like a strong year for APS-C in the compact mirrorless scene, and while the sensor sizes aren't leagues apart from each other the difference seems to remain significant. M4/3 is 40% smaller.
Fuji's upcoming X-Pro1 APS-C offerings are tremendously expensive, both body and lenses, and I don't really give a damn about Leica worship, but otherwise seems perfect. I really appreciate the manual control wheel emphasis and apparently Fuji's components are very well regarded on the X-100. Takes really good pictures. X-Pro1 pricing is wildly excessive for my purposes ($2300 or whatever for body + a lens), and the X-100 would be a viable option but now seems like old news compared to the X-Pro1 ;b. But maybe I should consider the X-100.
Sony's NEX-7 seems cool (love the three programmable manual control wheels) except the e-mount lens options are regarded as shit, and most of them are comically large. I need a quality pancake lens for hiking photography when I don't want to lug around a larger lens (and due to shoulder injury I can't wear a backpack, so something that works for a belt pack is necessary), something like this M4/3 lens or the X-100 fixed lens or the two smaller X-Pro1 lenses.
Canon's G1x looks pretty good specs-wise, but fixed lens is a bummer, and the body is retardedly large, basically DSLR-sized without the flexibility of one, kinda defeats the purpose.
And micro 4/3...I don't really see an appealing body for it, even if I got over the smaller sensor size. The Panny GX1 only has one manual control wheel as far as I can tell, and I'm used to manually setting iso/shutter/aperture on my S95 basically every time I do any nature photography, which is my primary purpose. The Olympus E-peen3 is too ugly. Maybe the OM-D will pan out.
X-100, maybe, then sell it in a year when the mirrorless landscape changes, I dunno. I really don't have a prob with a fixed lens since it's a large aperture and high quality; interchangeable is just appealing when I want to go to Yellowstone or some such and get good framing on the wild animals without getting mauled. I got yelled at by park rangers last time for endangering myself!
This is more annoying than buying a TV ;b
The tech whore in me says that investing in a M4/3 system is jumping into an already-obsolete product line because 2012 looks like a strong year for APS-C in the compact mirrorless scene, and while the sensor sizes aren't leagues apart from each other the difference seems to remain significant. M4/3 is 40% smaller.
Fuji's upcoming X-Pro1 APS-C offerings are tremendously expensive, both body and lenses, and I don't really give a damn about Leica worship, but otherwise seems perfect. I really appreciate the manual control wheel emphasis and apparently Fuji's components are very well regarded on the X-100. Takes really good pictures. X-Pro1 pricing is wildly excessive for my purposes ($2300 or whatever for body + a lens), and the X-100 would be a viable option but now seems like old news compared to the X-Pro1 ;b. But maybe I should consider the X-100.
Sony's NEX-7 seems cool (love the three programmable manual control wheels) except the e-mount lens options are regarded as shit, and most of them are comically large. I need a quality pancake lens for hiking photography when I don't want to lug around a larger lens (and due to shoulder injury I can't wear a backpack, so something that works for a belt pack is necessary), something like this M4/3 lens or the X-100 fixed lens or the two smaller X-Pro1 lenses.
Canon's G1x looks pretty good specs-wise, but fixed lens is a bummer, and the body is retardedly large, basically DSLR-sized without the flexibility of one, kinda defeats the purpose.
And micro 4/3...I don't really see an appealing body for it, even if I got over the smaller sensor size. The Panny GX1 only has one manual control wheel as far as I can tell, and I'm used to manually setting iso/shutter/aperture on my S95 basically every time I do any nature photography, which is my primary purpose. The Olympus E-peen3 is too ugly. Maybe the OM-D will pan out.
X-100, maybe, then sell it in a year when the mirrorless landscape changes, I dunno. I really don't have a prob with a fixed lens since it's a large aperture and high quality; interchangeable is just appealing when I want to go to Yellowstone or some such and get good framing on the wild animals without getting mauled. I got yelled at by park rangers last time for endangering myself!
This is more annoying than buying a TV ;b
I'd say jump onto M4/3rds and get cheap used body to start with, that's what I did after getting rid of the D90. Although I do miss the manual controls and the ergonomics the weight and size is so much more manageable especially if I travel.
There are great lens options such as the 14mm 2.5, 20mm 1.7, Leica 25mm 1.4, then Olympus has 45 1.8 and 12mm 2.0 lenses as well. Get rid of body later on and keep lenses.
Need my physical manual controls :/
bean breath
Member
The Samsung compact mirrorless cameras seem like a running joke at all the photography websites, haha, doesn't inspire confidence ;b
Well why not a Canon GX1 then? I think it's pretty badass other than the limited zoom range but people have been happy with a X100 and its fixed 35mm lens. Otherwise if manual controls are that important just get a Canon Rebel DSLR and call it a day. Corporations don't tailor what we really want so until then we have to compromise until somebody makes us that mirrorless rangefinder with dials up the wazoo.
I personally wouldn't, the one I played with in Asia was clunky, felt awkward, photo quality seems alright.
Evilore if you only want a pancake lens X100 and G1X are probably the best options.
G1X is really not as big as you think. Both X100 and G1X are a hair too big for Jeans pockets but good for jacket pocket. G1X will focus faster but the color/white balance is not as good as X100 IMO. Don't think of it as a 4X lens. Think of it as a 28mm-56mm f/2.8-4 and some emergency tele only usable in day light.
There is also DP1x DP2x you can consider if you only shoot in day time.
G1X is really not as big as you think. Both X100 and G1X are a hair too big for Jeans pockets but good for jacket pocket. G1X will focus faster but the color/white balance is not as good as X100 IMO. Don't think of it as a 4X lens. Think of it as a 28mm-56mm f/2.8-4 and some emergency tele only usable in day light.
There is also DP1x DP2x you can consider if you only shoot in day time.
Instigator
Banned
Or just keep your S95 if you're going to be that (superficially) picky. It sounds like it is your comfort zone.
Yeah I've looked at the camera size comparisons and so forth. With a limited zoom I feel like I'd kinda rather have a nice fast prime on there instead for the benefits there in low light and dof. I really don't use the zoom on my S95 a lot since it reduces the aperture so much. Then again, maybe I would use the zoom more if I was using a G1x-sized sensor so that I could crank the ISO a bit and retain a usable shutter speed despite the smaller aperture. Suppose so. X100 seems more attractive to me though, if quirkier.
Superficially? Not lugging a DSLR with me hiking, prefer actually having physical exposure controls rather than using a shitty touchscreen for everything, the larger sensor the better, and price and optics factor in as well. There are many compromises involved in choosing a camera, and now many choices in between the standard P&S and the full sized DSLR, therefore it has become a complex decision.
killertofu
Member
So when is the Mark III supposed to be out? I'm really itching to upgrade from my T2i
So unfortunately I have little knowledge of anything photography. I own some "old" Canon 35 mm Film Lenses. I've been reading up and trying to understand if you use them on modern DSLR with an APS-C Sensor how would they work? As far as I understand they the image would be cropped, does this mean if would be cropped from what you would see on a optical viewfinder but what shows up on a digital screen would be the final image the sensor is seeing?
Sorry in advance if I did not explain myself clearly.
Sorry in advance if I did not explain myself clearly.
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