JadedWriter
Member
Also see if you can afford a XT1 if you're willing to go crop sensor. It has a great viewfinder and the build quality is top notch, not to mention it's just a damn sexy camera.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
HazySaiyan
Banned
Is there more than one version of the XT1? The body is going for fairly cheap on eBay
Elfotografoalocado
Banned
Hahaha didn't buy any STM lens (at least yet), but I am looking at the pancake ones for size/weight constrained situations.
So that reports the distance your lens is currently focusing at even in manual focus? Could it be used for pre-setting focus for zone focusing?
HazySaiyan
Banned
I do like the look of the A6000, but I guess the price etc of the Panasonics is tempting. Decisions...
reggieandTFE
Member
All Olympus and Panasonic have incredibly fast and accurate single shot autofocus. As for continuous autofocus, the only Olympus mirrorless cameras with useable tracking continuous autofocus are the E-m1 and E-m1 mark ii.
Panasonic uses a proprietary algorithm that is in all of their cameras post G6 called DFD that does highly accurate continuous autofocus.
However, neither system has great continuous autofocus for video. They're both somewhat useable at this point for quick clips but they're nowhere near the video autofocus of Canon or Sony. But then again, the video quality of the Panasonics are generally unrivaled outside of multi thousand full frame cameras and the Olympus image stabilization system still has no peer for shooting video without the shaky cam issues. All modern camera systems are good. Take a flier on what's within your price range and has the features you like.
HazySaiyan
Banned
JadedWriter
Member
XT-1's are now cheap because the XT2 came out, it doesn't sound like you have XT-2 budget so I recommended the XT-1.
Interesting. I think I was watching a review on the G85 from thecamerastore and he complained about the AF saying it wasn't quite there yet. Sounds like he was wrong.
HazySaiyan
Banned
I could probably get the X-T1 with a vintage 50mm f1.8 prime lens for about £500, does that sound like a good deal and a good start point?
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah, that's fine if you want to manual focus. They have a pretty good dual screen manual focus system in the Fuji bodies.
HazySaiyan
Banned
Its just if I buy a newer Fuji lens I'm going way over budget
JadedWriter
Member
Just get it later at some point. Plenty of people in here just MF. What do you plan on photographing? Be advised you'd still need a lens adapter.
HazySaiyan
Banned
My Instagram is focused on toy photography so something with a large aperture would be useful. Manual should be fine there too, but I would like to take some pictures of the local landscapes etc. Figured a kit lens would be fine for that.
Luckily I found an eBay seller selling vintage lenses with an adapter included
JadedWriter
Member
Ok that's good. The 18-55 2.8-4 could be found used for around $300 on ebay. It's an ok lens. Granted I'm comparing it to the 35 F2 prime I have and no kit lens is going to compare to that.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
What do you mean when you say "large aperture?" Do you want a large depth of field so that more things are in focus?
If so, definitely go with the micro-four thirds or even one of the more recent 1-inch sensor cameras. It's a lot easier to get everything in focus on smaller sensor sizes without having to up the aperture (and thus compensate with lower shutter speed/ISO).
HazySaiyan
Banned
I want to do close ups so would like something with a shallow depth of field, hence the large aperture
Elfotografoalocado
Banned
For closeups, any relatively big sensor will give shallow DOF, even at relatively small apertures. Actually, you may have to stop down the lens to keep some idea of what the background is.
HazySaiyan
Banned
So would an MFT sensor suffice for that ?
Yeah.
On any system at extreme close-ups you'll get shallow DoF even when you're stopping down far enough to get diffraction.
You can kinda see on a focus scale how DoF is smaller at close distances. The far away markings are close and they get more spread out as you focus closer.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
In that case, I would recommend going with APS-C or Full Frame if your budget allows. You'll want to get a macro lens, too, so you can focus at extremely close distances.
JadedWriter
Member
Probably should have gotten the 55-200. The lower tier Fuji kit lenses are not really what Fuji puts their effort into. Keep the 23 F2 though, but sell that 55-230. It's a kit lens. I use the 35 F2 and like it a lot.
Just an update on this. I cleaned the sensor with a rocket dust blaster and wet apsc swabs and the sensor is pretty much completely clean now. There are a few spots still left but they are barely visible and I can only see them at f32. I could clean them with some more swabs but I'd rather not waste them right now.
Barkley's Justice
Member
Can anyone recommend a good shop to repair Nikon dslrs?
QualityPixel
Banned
KEH has a $300 flat rate (unless major expensive parts are needed).
https://www.keh.com/shop/repair
These guys will give you en email estimate before you send it in.
http://www.advancecamera.com/repair/
What model do you have and what's wrong?
I'm just curious, I probably can't help you fix it
Astral/H3X
Member
What size of toy?
For anything less than a foot tall, you'll want a macro lens.
What I personally use that would be in your budget, is the Canon FD 50mm f3.5 Macro lens, with extension tube and FD - E Mount adapter (You would use an FD - X mount adapter in your case). All together was around $100, though I'm sure you could find it cheaper.
For reference:
20150714-_DSC6366.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Getting the Ticket by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Revenge of the Smiles by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Nighttime Stroll by Hunter Mauro, on FlickrThey can, of course, take photos of larger toys than Legos (I sort of do this kind of thing)
Fantastic Duo! by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Magician's Dream by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Applicious by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Magician's Dream by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
https://youtu.be/S_wqVKSB8Po
Neat video comparing a full frame body + lenses setup from all the different brands.
Neat video comparing a full frame body + lenses setup from all the different brands.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Nice bokeh effects on these. Did you use a printout for the background? Actual lights?
Astral/H3X
Member
Articulating monitor!
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Miniature Kaiju
Member
iPads have saved my life with impromptu backgrounds more times than I'd like to admit
I find that hilarious and ingenious, I'll have to remember it if I ever shoot something tiny.iPads have saved my life with impromptu backgrounds more times than I'd like to admit
In lieu of a macro lens (or macro setup of some sort) how much can you get away with by just cropping? Like if the output is just going to be for the web and/or the camera has enough pixels to crop out a decent chunk. Or is it kinda like shorter vs longer lenses for portraits where it's also a matter of managing the distortion vs flattening effect of shooting from different distances?
Miniature Kaiju
Member
If you've got plenty of resolution to spare and a good resolving lens, you can crop and get some low magnification "macro". What macro lenses and setups give you, though, is much more image detail to work with.
You don't need to go crazy with equipment, either. If you have, say, a Nikon kit 18-55mm, it by itself can get you 1:3 magnification at the far end. Toss in a 36mm extension tube and now you can focus closer and get it to about 1:1, enough to almost fill the frame with a penny. You can get a set of extension tubes for $30 or so on eBay.
Tubes do magnify any existing issues the lens has, so if a lens isn't critically sharp wide open, it will be worse when using tubes. It's especially true for lenses that struggle with close focusing.
Astral/H3X
Member
Cropping is such a poor man's macro that I honestly wouldn't even bother; especially when mirrorless cameras offer such cheap access to GOOD macro. If a dedicated lens is too much, then extension tubes are a good enough mid point that they are worth considering.
A non-macro, wide aperture lens with a extension tubes also has it's uses, as while the IQ goes to crap, you can get some *serious* dream bokeh out of it.
These two are much the same photo, but one with a dedicated macro, and one with my 50mm 1.4 on an extension tubes.
https://flic.kr/p/TXT4BW
https://flic.kr/p/TXTbmh
iPads have saved my life with impromptu backgrounds more times than I'd like to admit
lol, I haven't thought of that
They are quite versatile. I've used a tablet displaying white with a sheet of paper as a lightbox for negatives/slides.
Astral/H3X
Member
For sure, which is why I added, "The IQ goes to crap".
A dedicated macro will always beat out a non dedicated one, but there's some fun stuff they can be used for anyway. I don't have a 1.4 macro lens!
Miniature Kaiju
Member
They are, indeed! I've never used one as a lightbox (that's a great idea, though), but I've used one displaying white at maximum brightness as a light source to do some light painting, once.
HazySaiyan
Banned
Quick update, I ended up buying a Nikon D3400 with the kit lens. Got a pretty good deal on it, last one in the store too. Liked the idea of a mirrorless but I'll see how I get on, haven't had a chance to properly use it, still waiting for a memory card etc. I did really like the look of the Fuji X-T1 but it was getting a bit too expensive.
Also ordered a preowned 50mm Nikkor AF f/1.8D. Should hopefully be here by the weekend.
Also ordered a preowned 50mm Nikkor AF f/1.8D. Should hopefully be here by the weekend.
These are great, you've inspired me!What size of toy?
For anything less than a foot tall, you'll want a macro lens.
What I personally use that would be in your budget, is the Canon FD 50mm f3.5 Macro lens, with extension tube and FD - E Mount adapter (You would use an FD - X mount adapter in your case). All together was around $100, though I'm sure you could find it cheaper.
For reference:
They can, of course, take photos of larger toys than Legos (I sort of do this kind of thing)
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Congrats!
Did you buy it at a mom and pop store or a major retailer? If it was a local store, maybe you could have asked if they could throw in a small, cheap, memory card for free while you wait for your main one.
Will you be getting a tripod too? That helps for macro shots. You don't really need an expensive one. Google around for tips on product photography. You can probably build a cheap light box for your toys with stuff like foam core board, or a milk carton, or some cloth. You can MacGguyver up a decent studio setup on a budget since your subjects will be small.
HazySaiyan
Banned
Thanks! Got it a major retailer (PC World), it was £75 off so I'm happy 😊
I will be getting a tripod but it will probably be next payday. Want to take pictures of some local landscapes too so it will be doubly useful.
The 55-200 is a huge step up in value. This bundle put the 50-230 at around £100 or a bit less, which is probably appropriate. The 55-200 is £450-500 used. Telephoto isn't really my thing, more of a curiosity, so I didn't want to spend much. I was primarily after the 23 f2. I'm not going in with high expectations for the 55-230!
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah you get what you pay for. I operate pretty regularly in the telephoto range for street photography. I'm not touching a budget telephoto kit lens for anything.
TerryLee81
Member
I need to take pictures at my Brothers wedding in a few weeks. Never done that before. They don't expect anything professional, so really there's no pressure.
But I guess I'll need a flash?
I will be using my X-T2 with 16mm 1.4, 23mm 1.4, 56mm 1.2 and maybe the 16-55 2.8, but I'm not sure if it's not too dark inside the house.
Any recommendations for a flash and tips on how to use it at a wedding? Should I buy an official Fuji flash?
But I guess I'll need a flash?
I will be using my X-T2 with 16mm 1.4, 23mm 1.4, 56mm 1.2 and maybe the 16-55 2.8, but I'm not sure if it's not too dark inside the house.
Any recommendations for a flash and tips on how to use it at a wedding? Should I buy an official Fuji flash?
Astral/H3X
Member
Use only your primes. See if there's something like the Capture Lens that Peak design makes for Fuji lenses (or get really dumb and use Nikon/Fuji adapters to use it anyway idgaf it's worth it.)
Get a TTL (automatically adjusted) flash. I say this as someone who uses a manual flash. You ain't got time to be fucking with flash settings. It doesn't need to be Fuji, but there's something to be said about that extra bit of smoothness that first party equipment can have when you need to be fluid. But I'd see if Yongnuo makes a TTL flash that works on Fuji.
It's gonna need to be bright - get one with a large guide number over one with a smaller one. Why? You'll be pointing it at the cieling. THE NUMBER ONE RULE OF FLASH IS DO NOT POINT IT STRAIGHT AT YOUR SUBJECT. Doing so washes every semblance of color out of your photo and carts your subjects off to the afterlife leaving nothing but their white ghosts behind. Don't turn your family into ghosts. If you point it up at the cieling it effectively just puts in much brighter and softer lights on the cieling, which is exactly what you want.
Edit: I noticed your zoom is a 2.8, I assume fixed aperture. In that case I guess you can take your zoom but EH.
The argument against primes is that you don't want to be fumbling around in your bag when opportunities are happening. I've shot two weddings for family members and I rented a professional grade zoom both times, worked great. I ended up switching to primes during the reception when things had slowed down a bit.
When shooting the wedding bear in mind that the family has their minds on what's happening and not on photos typically so you may need to gently remind them to take a moment.
If you aren't experienced with a flash, practice beforehand! I echo the above on bouncing.
When shooting the wedding bear in mind that the family has their minds on what's happening and not on photos typically so you may need to gently remind them to take a moment.
If you aren't experienced with a flash, practice beforehand! I echo the above on bouncing.
JadedWriter
Member
Bring all of it, also see if it's not too late to either rent a second body or just find an XT1 on the cheap and use it as a second body and just keep the zoom on there with the flash on there, that's what I do. A second body is nothing to sneeze at for events because you do not always have time to switch lenses. Probably use the 56 as a reach/portrait lens and switch out as needed depending on what look you're going for. Also if you get a flash get a diffuser cap so it cuts down on the light some more. Also I hope you have a strap. For events I do not hang a camera off my neck anymore. I once almost strangled myself with my D600 with a flash, 24-70 and a grip just twisting around, never again. For flashes I heard the Godox stuff is pretty good for Fuji. Also either aim the flash up like Astral said or point it backwards as well, it can also bounce off the wall.
Lasthope106
Member
Where will the wedding take place? Indoors? Outdoors? It really pays to know that in advance so that you can plan accordingly. As JadedWriter mentioned having two bodies with two different lenses is a lifesaver. Make sure you carry extra memory cards and that you format them all the night prior. You really don't want to run the risk of missing a moment. I know they told you "nothing professional" but people always expect at least certain angles, pictures.
Don't mess with manual focus during the ceremony. Find shade if outside. Find natural light if inside. Get a Godox TT350 for Fuji. Nice little flash you can use. I've also would get a few disposable cameras and give them to guests so they can offload some of the stress from you. There are bound to be a few winner shots.
JadedWriter
Member
I work events, used to do it with one camera. I missed a shot in front of my boss because I was lens changing and probably a week or two later I got a second camera. This shit is no game.
Astral/H3X
Member
If we're going all out and getting straps (because let's face it OEM straps all suck ass) I literally cannot speak highly enough of Peak Design straps. They are all stupidly well made, and, most importantly, versatile. What do I mean by versatile? First and foremost, it doesn't take 10 fucking minutes to put it on or take it off, meaning you'll remove or attach it as desired instead of throwing it on and just dealing with it if it's cumbersome. Also you can make the Leashes act as a sling or just a tether to your belt. Options!
JadedWriter
Member
Dude is selling a lens. Idiot changes the price on it like 4 times in one day. I inquire about it because the food has sold nothing more than a few sneakers. I ask him about it and get told to fook off. Tell him he shouldn't be talking like that to someone trying to buy the lens he's been holding onto for most of the week and he tells me he's not interested in selling the lens to me. Asshole.
TerryLee81
Member
Thanks for all the suggestions regarding the flash.
The Godox is a lot cheaper then the Fuji, although it seems it's a bit less strong.
Depending on the weather the wedding will be indoors or outdoors. I usually only use the primes indoors. With the zoom, even though it's a constant 2.8, I have to use high ISO a lot quicker, the difference is huge.
I have a Gary Fong diffusor, never used it. Should I bring that too?
I guess I really have to practice a bit with the flash before the wedding.
The Godox is a lot cheaper then the Fuji, although it seems it's a bit less strong.
Depending on the weather the wedding will be indoors or outdoors. I usually only use the primes indoors. With the zoom, even though it's a constant 2.8, I have to use high ISO a lot quicker, the difference is huge.
I have a Gary Fong diffusor, never used it. Should I bring that too?
I guess I really have to practice a bit with the flash before the wedding.