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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
Plinko
Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
I 100% agree with your sentiment of Warm 2. Just completely yellow. I wasn't referring to color tone in my post, though (which I have at Warm 1). I was referring to setting Picture Mode to Standard instead of Movie.
Thanks for posting this about sharpness. Everybody kept saying 0 and I thought I was going crazy. It is so blurry. Everybody's face was a blurry mess. I now have the setting at around 30 and it looks great.
It's not so much that it adds a yellow tint, its that if youre used to standard,that adds a blueish tint. The yellow you see is the abscence of the blue, which you perceive as "whiter" if that makes sense.
After a day on warm 2, you wont notice.
Playing with some test screens, I get distinct and obvious halos above about 22. I erred on the side of caution and set it at 20. Zero halos. Active softening of the picture below that. To my eyes, sharpness at 0 is definitely wrong for this TV.
ManUnkindH
Member
So what are you all using for SDR games on PS4 PRO? Auto color space or Native?
Seems Native is exaggerating the colors and giving a saturated image overall or is it just me? Tried Bf1, Driveclub and Uncharted 4 and there are occasions when I think Native looks better, but overall is just a neon looking picture.
So is Auto recommended for both HDR and SDR games?
Seems Native is exaggerating the colors and giving a saturated image overall or is it just me? Tried Bf1, Driveclub and Uncharted 4 and there are occasions when I think Native looks better, but overall is just a neon looking picture.
So is Auto recommended for both HDR and SDR games?
boredandlazy
Member
I used to use Cool colour and hated the look of Warm. One day I bit the bullet and now I'm fine with it.
Wouldn't you end up with crushed blacks with Native with the wrong signal?
ManUnkindH
Member
I just tried a course in Driveclub using a red Ferrari and during Native it just looked absolutely awful, extremely neonish, the color of the car was anything but natural or the way the devs intended it to be. I'm afraid it's the wrong setting for games AND movies, but feel free to prove me wrong.
Saw a post about a week back but thought I'd ask. How are people cleaning the screen?
I noticed with my first model wiping even with microfiber made the coating on the screen come off.
Went from black to a bluish tint. Could only see, if I put phone flashlight up to the screen.
Also if anything but the absolute lightest pressure was used,the cloth produced micro scratches.
Fine scratches you see if wiping something that has a gloss finish. Like the original PS3.
Again only being visible under specific lighting with tv off. And only in the small area I had wiped. This was with unused microfiber, that came with tv.
Took first set back after this happened. Simply trying to wipe dust from screen. Never seen this with any other screen ever.
I noticed with my first model wiping even with microfiber made the coating on the screen come off.
Went from black to a bluish tint. Could only see, if I put phone flashlight up to the screen.
Also if anything but the absolute lightest pressure was used,the cloth produced micro scratches.
Fine scratches you see if wiping something that has a gloss finish. Like the original PS3.
Again only being visible under specific lighting with tv off. And only in the small area I had wiped. This was with unused microfiber, that came with tv.
Took first set back after this happened. Simply trying to wipe dust from screen. Never seen this with any other screen ever.
Plinko
Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
I lightly rub with a microfiber cloth and it takes care of it. Haven't had any of the issues you experienced. I have an EA01 panel.
buenoblue
Member
Are you sure about this. Don't think gears uses wide colour gamut.
Switch on 10bit colour in the Xbone settings. There's a menu which checks your TV's capabilities, and you'll see a green check mark next to 10bit colour, 4K, etc to confirm your TV is capable of it.
Not sure about Gears specifically, but it looks superb on my TV with 10bit switched on. I think you can trust the Xbone to adapt whatever content it's showing to suit the display to which it's connected.
Have to say, sincere thanks to Phil0sophy for the tip about sharpness. Setting it to 20 is a massive improvement. There's no doubt in my mind that it's correct for the TV. 0 unnaturally softens the image. Not sure how any of the websites could have missed this, because simply checking it with a test pattern confirms it. It's indisputable.
I'm glad your weren't afraid to be a voice of dissent. It's hard to ignore the accepted wisdom of websites we've grown to trust, and I'm sure everyone in the thread has winced at displays with maxed out sharpness set up by people who don't know better. I'd much rather have sharpness set too low than too high, but boy do things look an order of magnitude better when it's set correctly.
Re the bolded, I was thinking the same thing. At the very least, letting users know what the unprocessed defaults are - the equivalent of "flat" for audio equipment - would be so simple. I'm still not certain about colour temperature. You're in the Standard camp, Xbone is telling me Warm1; and frankly they both look great. Hoping for more info on this, but I'm going to side with the 'Bone for now.
I really appreciate having access to (very) basic calibration settings on the Xbox and Apple TV. PS4 Pro seems to want brightness to be set to 45, but I'm just eyeballing it; and the Xbone definitely does thanks to the calibration menu. However, the colour bars confirm the ATV needs it at 43. Without their inclusion, I'd never have known. Pity Netflix doesn't have a calibration test embedded in its various apps.
Clockwork
Member
The Netflix test pattern video (that also lets you test your surround setup and audio lag) definitely exhibits ringing way before hitting 30 sharpness.
Also put me in the Warm 2 crowd. I don't understand how after you are used to it you can say it is wrong. It definitely presents a more natural image and "experts" all seem to agree that it is closer to film standards. To justify your side by complaining their train of thought is outdated is ludicrous. I would feel better had you just said "I know it's not technically accurate but I enjoy/prefer the way it looks."
Clockwork
Member
More around 20 or so but even 30 is acceptable. I will agree on the above and even between manufacturers the 0 point for sharpness is not always 0.
Where is this test pattern? I'm not seeing it anywhere in the menus of the KS8000 TV app.
So when set to 2160 RGB (HDR on in TV settings) does everyone get the flickering and constant lost of picture for a second or two on a PS4 Pro? I either have to manually set to YUV420 (and not automatic) or turn off HDCP in the PS4 settings (if I do that I can keep RGB on). Really want to figure this out. Would really suck if a firmware update isn't going to fix this and I should replace my TV before warranty expiration.
I don't have this issue on my Xbox One S. Not sure if that console doesn't actually display in RGB or something (though it tells me I can do everything other than 50hz).
I've read some posts in this thread about it, but I can't tell if it's just how it is for everyone with this setup or what. Also seems to be mostly people not getting a picture at all which is not my problem.
I don't have this issue on my Xbox One S. Not sure if that console doesn't actually display in RGB or something (though it tells me I can do everything other than 50hz).
I've read some posts in this thread about it, but I can't tell if it's just how it is for everyone with this setup or what. Also seems to be mostly people not getting a picture at all which is not my problem.
Quick issue: question below...
When viewing the Video Output Information on the PS4Pro, it states:
Resolution 3840 x 2160 - 60hz
Color Format YUV420
HDR on Your TV Only 2K Supported
"Your TV might support a higher quality color format and 4K HDR if you change its settings. Check your TV's settings.
--HDCP 2.2--
...what might I have done wrong for my output to be stating that "Only 2K Supported"? Or is that normal?
I have the Pro running through a Yamaha Reciever that supports HDCP 2.2 (HDMI inputs one through three have "HDCP 2.2" stamped under them) then out from the Yamaha and into the HDMI 1 port of the One Connect box and out from that into the TV via the One Connect cable. All cables are high speed afaik and afai have read on the stamping on the side of the cables. I'm definitely at least using the cable that came with the Pro, but could the other cable be a cause of my output settings being seeing my TV as "Only 2K Supported"?
If you need more specific info let me know and I'll provide it. I just want to make sure that I have the right settings so that I can be sure that HDR will pass from the Pro to the TV and that my TV will output HDR from other sources like Netflix.
When viewing the Video Output Information on the PS4Pro, it states:
Resolution 3840 x 2160 - 60hz
Color Format YUV420
HDR on Your TV Only 2K Supported
"Your TV might support a higher quality color format and 4K HDR if you change its settings. Check your TV's settings.
--HDCP 2.2--
...what might I have done wrong for my output to be stating that "Only 2K Supported"? Or is that normal?
I have the Pro running through a Yamaha Reciever that supports HDCP 2.2 (HDMI inputs one through three have "HDCP 2.2" stamped under them) then out from the Yamaha and into the HDMI 1 port of the One Connect box and out from that into the TV via the One Connect cable. All cables are high speed afaik and afai have read on the stamping on the side of the cables. I'm definitely at least using the cable that came with the Pro, but could the other cable be a cause of my output settings being seeing my TV as "Only 2K Supported"?
If you need more specific info let me know and I'll provide it. I just want to make sure that I have the right settings so that I can be sure that HDR will pass from the Pro to the TV and that my TV will output HDR from other sources like Netflix.
Quick issue: question below...
When viewing the Video Output Information on the PS4Pro, it states:
Resolution 3840 x 2160 - 60hz
Color Format YUV420
HDR on Your TV Only 2K Supported
"Your TV might support a higher quality color format and 4K HDR if you change its settings. Check your TV's settings.
--HDCP 2.2--
...what might I have done wrong for my output to be stating that "Only 2K Supported"? Or is that normal?
I have the Pro running through a Yamaha Reciever that supports HDCP 2.2 (HDMI inputs one through three have "HDCP 2.2" stamped under them) then out from the Yamaha and into the HDMI 1 port of the One Connect box and out from that into the TV via the One Connect cable. All cables are high speed afaik and afai have read on the stamping on the side of the cables. I'm definitely at least using the cable that came with the Pro, but could the other cable be a cause of my output settings being seeing my TV as "Only 2K Supported"?
If you need more specific info let me know and I'll provide it. I just want to make sure that I have the right settings so that I can be sure that HDR will pass from the Pro to the TV and that my TV will output HDR from other sources like Netflix.
Deliberate double post because last post was bottom of previous page.
When viewing the Video Output Information on the PS4Pro, it states:
Resolution 3840 x 2160 - 60hz
Color Format YUV420
HDR on Your TV Only 2K Supported
"Your TV might support a higher quality color format and 4K HDR if you change its settings. Check your TV's settings.
--HDCP 2.2--
...what might I have done wrong for my output to be stating that "Only 2K Supported"? Or is that normal?
I have the Pro running through a Yamaha Reciever that supports HDCP 2.2 (HDMI inputs one through three have "HDCP 2.2" stamped under them) then out from the Yamaha and into the HDMI 1 port of the One Connect box and out from that into the TV via the One Connect cable. All cables are high speed afaik and afai have read on the stamping on the side of the cables. I'm definitely at least using the cable that came with the Pro, but could the other cable be a cause of my output settings being seeing my TV as "Only 2K Supported"?
If you need more specific info let me know and I'll provide it. I just want to make sure that I have the right settings so that I can be sure that HDR will pass from the Pro to the TV and that my TV will output HDR from other sources like Netflix.
Deliberate double post because last post was bottom of previous page.
Arc07
Member
I had the same issue. There's a hidden menu on the receiver where you enable 4K HDR support. I'll edit this when I find it.
My receiver was set to MODE 2 by default. MODE 1 is what you need.
Clockwork
Member
I do not have this issue.
I have everything set to Auto in the screen and sound settings on my PS4 Pro.
When playing non HDR content it runs in RGB and when running HDR content it automatically changes to YUV422 (or other variants).
Just to be 1000% sure I've got this right, friends.
Do I have this right? Am I missing anything? If so, please put it in the OP to save everyone some time.
EDIT:
Do I have this right? Am I missing anything? If so, please put it in the OP to save everyone some time.
EDIT:
Clockwork
Member
Just to be 1000% sure I've got this right, friends.
Do I have this right? Am I missing anything? If so, please put it in the OP to save everyone some time.
It should make no appreciable difference as long as the TV settings match the PS4 settings.
i.e. PS4 full/TV normal and PS4 limited/TV low should look virtually the same. You'll only get black crush or an overbright picture if there is a mismatch.
I should probably just keep everything at Automatic to keep myself sane.
Here I am looking at RGB Range Full on PS4 and switching between HDMI Black Levels on the TV. The "Normal" setting looks washed out and less vibrant compared to "Low" and "Auto" (which are the same, if I read the thread right). This goes completely against what I read here. Is this some weird handshaking problem or am I blind...
I haven't even fully read what you've posted, but your fucking awesome! I'll edit when fixed!
Phat Edit! It worked!
"HDR on Your TV -----2K/4K Supported-----!!!!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You saved me a shit ton of time reading through the whole 100 plus page digital instruction manual (which I'm going to do anyway perhaps in a few days, but I just want to play now!)
Again thanks for your help and effort!
Put both the TV and PS4 on Auto. Everything works itself out. It's not about Wide or Limited being better or worse; it's about the TV and PS4 matching each other's colour gamut. I've never had a problem with Auto.
Boss Man
Member
It's an issue that people with many different TVs have reported on various sites, there's a thread somewhere on GAF.
……forgetit
Member
I have a Sony X850D, but I had the same issue at first. It's your input. I have no idea where it is on Samsung TVs, but you have to use your full hdmi settings, if that makes sense.
Have you got a source/article for the above? Most people I know still use D65 for professional design work. (Not sure about colorists).
Commercial cinema calibration, on the other hand, can be all over the place.
Also, the reason why we don't have an accurate calibration is not because the techniques are outdated but more so because most units cant reach bt2020 yet. So you need to profile your unit first, calibrate it at the units maximum colour space and then hope the unit's processing unit can accurately process the colors beyond that.
We already have the tools to do these with lumagen pro or hdfury + user created patterns, but yeah due to the state of the bt2020 in todays tv, calibration is just a guess work at these stage for HDR.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
I should probably just keep everything at Automatic to keep myself sane.
Here I am looking at RGB Range Full on PS4 and switching between HDMI Black Levels on the TV. The "Normal" setting looks washed out and less vibrant compared to "Low" and "Auto" (which are the same, if I read the thread right). This goes completely against what I read here. Is this some weird handshaking problem or am I blind...
I'll chime in and say that you're in fact not blind and I get that washed out look as well. I'll say this, just use settings that look good to you. I know it sounds ignorant, but I was using Warm 2 for the Color tone setting for the past 5 days and it just didn't look good to me. That yellowish hue -regardless of the industry standard, and how the director meant for it to look blah blah nonsense- just wasnt working for me. Switched to standard.
I've been trying to stay away from the thread -it's not working- because I was like a mad man looking at the OP and tinkering and tinkering and tinkering. I finally said "this is no fun and I'm not enjoying my tv, I need to stop being obsessive about it".
Have a KS9000 btw.
I ended up pulling up a RGB Full Range test image to have something a little more solid to go on.
It turns out that "Full" on PS4 Pro and "Normal" on the TV was actually giving the full range, despite looking washed out to my eye. What I perceived as more vibrant on the "Low" and "Auto" for the TV was actually crushing the top three rows of blacks.
That all said, everything set to Automatic on PS4 Pro and TV also gives a full range on that test image, and for whatever reason in my head looks better than Full/Normal. Hell, in reality they may actually look the same side-by-side, but yeah, I'm just going with what my eyes are telling me and going Automatic everything.
Cheers.
Anyone?
Ugh... my tv just stopped recognizing my receiver and now won't play any audio through the HDMI ARC connection. (It has been working for a month, turning on the receiver on its own and controlling the receiver volume)
I notice this tv randomly gets issues like this, and it's a bit frustrating. I unplugged and repluggrd in everything and did the setup but it doesn't recognize the device anymore.
I notice this tv randomly gets issues like this, and it's a bit frustrating. I unplugged and repluggrd in everything and did the setup but it doesn't recognize the device anymore.
ManUnkindH
Member
I envy those "normal" folks out there which have no idea what the fuck we're talking about here.... I must leave this thread. FOR SANITY!!!
I want to be this guy, I really do.
The settings section is incredible.
"How about 38?"
"Color at 63."
"Impressive, isn't it?"
Original Famous Ray
Member
I had the tv for a couple of weeks, have a PS4, Xbox One S and an Amazon Fire TV hooked up to it and still don't understand a damn thing. lol
The only thing I've done was turn off that god awful AutoMotion thing, set Sharpness to 0 and put the Xbone and PS4 Pro to "Game Mode". Should I put the Amazon Fire TV to "Movie Mode"? TV settings shouldn't be this complicated.
Do the TV apps have their own settings or are they using whatever HDMI setting is currently on display? Its all a damn mess to me and I don't understand shit. lol
Arc07
Member
Majima Everywhere System
Member
Here is a comparison of Sharpness at 100, 30, and 0 on the KS8000. You can see what it adds to the image on the inside corner of the tv. Watching this area while holding down the slider, the addition to the image disappeared around 2. Zero is zero, but do what your eyes tell you is good. If Warm 1 is to your tastes, use it. It doesn't seem accurate to me but I've been looking at warm 2 for 8 years
Comparison
He actually toggles through all 4 Dynamic Contrast setting from high to off and then quickly back to high and says let me set it at High!
You can see the details getting crushed into black shadows everywhere lol!
Don't worry! It's not that complicated, and you're pretty much nailing it. The OP is a great place to start for refinements though. I'd suggest using them as a base setting in order not to complicate things. You'll turn off what needs turning off, etc.
General consensus is that if you're not playing games, you want Movie mode for a given input, but don't sweat watching movies on your Xbone in Game mode; there's not much difference. Make sure your PS4 and Xbone's inputs are set to HDMI UHD Colour ON (the default is off), per the OP, and turn off Dynamic Contrast.
The Apps share a settings memory as if they were another input. What you do to the Samsung's Netflix app will affect its Crave app though; there aren't separate settings per app. You also get a separate HDR setting for TV apps as well.
One big disagreement with the settings in the OP: I'd suggest setting sharpness to 20. 0 actually blurs the image. Find a calibration image with some district lines, max out your sharpness, and then lower it until the glow around the lines disappears. It should happen between 20 and 30. Less than that, you'll see the lines blur.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
Haha same. Like warm 2 didn't work for me, but I did stick to many of the settings in the OP. My friend saw my set and swore by high dynamic contrast and I turned that shit off completely. The only games that makes me tinker over and over is InFamous SS with HDR on. For w.e. reason that game is so darn dark, absolutely no detail during the darkest of scenes. I don't know if that's the HDR as it should be or not.
ManUnkindH
Member
Holy shit you made my day, fucking LOL!!
I have a Yamaha receiver bought last year, but I do not seem to have the 4k setting mentioned there. It supports 4k but not HDR it seems.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
That dude...omg I'm so sorry to say but I have an uncle like that. The way he says "impressive, isn't it?" Full of so much conviction. Lol.