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aquarium-age gaf

Leunam

Member
Hurray some more people getting involved, those marine tanks are incredible.
This is my current tank, I've just had a baby so it's going to have to stay like this for a while, but eventually I would like a pair of central/South American dwarf cichlids, like some kinda of apisto or ram.
s6WRU5u.jpg

Glad to see this bumped, because I have been wanting to get started on a tank and this here is precisely what I'd like to do. Does anyone have an online article or guide that they recommend for getting started with a planted aquarium? I would like some fish, possibly shrimp too, and I'm thinking around 15 gallons, maybe a little bigger.
 

JoeNut

Member

Picked up this guy over the weekend, he's a cockatoo cichlid, or Apistrogramma Cacatuiodes "orange" to give him is full name - there's 2 females too (ones hiding in the background) and i got some Ember Tetras as "dither fish" - which essentially act as cover to the cichlids who are naturally quite timid.

Here's a pic of the tank right now, looking forward to it growing out over the next 6 months or so, eventually all the background plants will reach the surface.
 

Neverfade

Member
Got a tank going HAM with the brown algae/diatom bloom.

Threw an airstone in there to jump the O2 levels and was thinking about ordering one of those phosphorous filters from Amazon. Any other tips to battle this shit?





Second question. Got another tank I'm about to set up. I'd like to throw some of the media in here to jumpstart this cycle, but not if I'm just going to spread that fucking bloom. Bad idea?
 

JoeNut

Member
Neverfade, firstly is the tank stocked and cycled? (i presume yes since you mentioned media)

I believe brown algae can actually be caused by low levels of light, rather than algae often being the cause of high levels of light/nutrients. How long are you leaving lights on for?

I may be wrong but i don't believe you can "spread" the algae from the existing media, it should be fine.

Also, i got a decent photo of my new one as above, thought i'd share to keep this thread going, would love to get a proper community together on GAF

 
I really really want to get an aquarium! But I want exotic salt-water fish so that plus the aquarium accessories and such will make it a hefty price!

I've also wanted a ray ever since I saw one in an aquarium store.

No piranhas though.
 

Neverfade

Member
Neverfade, firstly is the tank stocked and cycled? (i presume yes since you mentioned media)

I believe brown algae can actually be caused by low levels of light, rather than algae often being the cause of high levels of light/nutrients. How long are you leaving lights on for?

I may be wrong but i don't believe you can "spread" the algae from the existing media, it should be fine.

Also, i got a decent photo of my new one as above, thought i'd share to keep this thread going, would love to get a proper community together on GAF

Yeah, it's cycled. It's actually the tank I got and inquired about closer to the top of this page back in August. I just started having the diatom bloom just over a month ago, though. Lights are on about 10 hours a day. Not enough?
 
Yeah, it's cycled. It's actually the tank I got and inquired about closer to the top of this page back in August. I just started having the diatom bloom just over a month ago, though. Lights are on about 10 hours a day. Not enough?

I'd say ten hours is more than enough. What kind of light do you use? How often do you feed your fish and how much do you give them? Did you add anything or change anything before the bloom happened?

My experience with brown algae was that leaving a yellow light on for 10+ hours a day in a quarantined tank caused it. Blue lights tend to produce more green algae. The thing is, with my quarantine tank, it had nothing but a makeshift sponge filter, 2 fish, and had no substrate. The light was on one side, and that's where the brown algae tended to appear.

Also, Otocinclus catfish will eat the brown algae. The problem is that they can have bad survival rates depending on where you get them.
 

JoeNut

Member
I'd say ten hours is more than enough. What kind of light do you use? How often do you feed your fish and how much do you give them? Did you add anything or change anything before the bloom happened?

My experience with brown algae was that leaving a yellow light on for 10+ hours a day in a quarantined tank caused it. Blue lights tend to produce more green algae. The thing is, with my quarantine tank, it had nothing but a makeshift sponge filter, 2 fish, and had no substrate. The light was on one side, and that's where the brown algae tended to appear.

Also, Otocinclus catfish will eat the brown algae. The problem is that they can have bad survival rates depending on where you get them.

Agreed, 10 hours is probably too much, so reduce to 8 hours.

How often are you water changing? proper water changes of at least 15% a week should be a minimum for any tank in an ideal world.
 

Neverfade

Member
I'd say ten hours is more than enough. What kind of light do you use? How often do you feed your fish and how much do you give them? Did you add anything or change anything before the bloom happened?

My experience with brown algae was that leaving a yellow light on for 10+ hours a day in a quarantined tank caused it. Blue lights tend to produce more green algae. The thing is, with my quarantine tank, it had nothing but a makeshift sponge filter, 2 fish, and had no substrate. The light was on one side, and that's where the brown algae tended to appear.

Also, Otocinclus catfish will eat the brown algae. The problem is that they can have bad survival rates depending on where you get them.

They're LEDs that came with the hood, a Top Fin. I'll cut back on it and see if it helps.

It's a single fish which gets fed once a day. Also, it's a Goldfish/cold water tank so Ottos are out.

Agreed, 10 hours is probably too much, so reduce to 8 hours.

How often are you water changing? proper water changes of at least 15% a week should be a minimum for any tank in an ideal world.

Water change happens at LEAST once every two weeks, more often when I can.
 
If you can, try manually getting rid of as much as you can right before your next water change. Other than the airstone, did you add anything to the tank from before the diatom bloom? Also, where is it growing? Just on the glass or on the decorations? Also, when was the last time you've done filter maintenance?

I'm actually dealing with my own algae problem. Ever since I moved the tank and repositioned the amazon sword plant, I've gotten a surge of BBA, which is extremely annoying. I've added some things that might help, such as DIY CO2 to get the plants more competitive with nutrient use. While I've gotten the BBA to slow down, there's now a surge of what looks like staghorn algae. I actually don't mind it, as it mostly grows on the plants, which I can just trim. Interestingly, no BBA or staghorn algae is growing underneath the amazon sword plant. Go figure. Maybe a sign to reduce the light duration a bit more?
 

JoeNut

Member
i would absolutely recommend increasing water change frequency.

In other news, one of my 2 nerite snails died, im not sure why or how, which is frustrating. RIP Brian
 

Rimshot

Member
i would absolutely recommend increasing water change frequency.

In other news, one of my 2 nerite snails died, im not sure why or how, which is frustrating. RIP Brian

They are really sensitive, so it might be that you also need to increase your water change for a while.
 

Neverfade

Member
If you can, try manually getting rid of as much as you can right before your next water change. Other than the airstone, did you add anything to the tank from before the diatom bloom? Also, where is it growing? Just on the glass or on the decorations? Also, when was the last time you've done filter maintenance?

There may have been a few decorations added shortly before it. I'm kinda fuzzy on the timeline at this point.

It's growing on glass and decorations.

All the decorations have been removed and are getting a thorough cleaning and a deep soak.

Filter maintenance is done once a month. Just did it again last night.
 

Sunster

Member
I really really want to get an aquarium! But I want exotic salt-water fish so that plus the aquarium accessories and such will make it a hefty price!

I've also wanted a ray ever since I saw one in an aquarium store.

No piranhas though.

piranhas are actually fresh water
 
125 in-wall reef:
ybrvGTnl.jpg


I've been in the hobby for around 8 years now. Started with a 29 planted, then 56 planted with a 29g reef, then 90 planted, then 90 reef and I went back to a small freshwater setup.
Both tanks are in my home office area so I get to see them most of the day. It helps me to justify the cost.
My God that's beautiful. I would seriously consider something like this.
 

Stasis

Member
Thanks. That is along my work desk so I look at it during meetings. I was concerned about having an in-wall but I end up really liking it. The other side is my unfinished basement and my water mixing station is 5' away so water changes are super easy. I also like not having ugly lights hanging above the tank (well, there are but you can't see them).

cmJC6u0l.jpg


I really want a small Fluval type planted tank on my desk for shrimp but I think my wife would kill me.

Totally doing this in our next house. I could do it in this one now, but we're planning on selling within 2 years. I'd rather not have to move it ever if possible. Such a long time to wait. Maybe I'll get a medium sized cichlid tank running until then. Been wanting a tank ever since we bought the place. Your setup is perfect for my basement office plan and since we'll be buying new again I can design the basement walls accordingly to accommodate everything behind it properly.

Thanks for the inspiration! And if you have any tips, or things you'd have done differently, do post them. I'll do a lot of research before I start buying parts but it's always good to learn from the mistakes others have made. Or if you haven't made any, just copy you basically!
 

JoeNut

Member
My apistogramma have laid eggs already, they defend them like hell, the cory's in my tank are oblivious and keep running into the little hidey hole where the eggs are and getting nipped...this won't end well :/
 

Leunam

Member
Although a very dated looking site there's good information to be found on http://www.firsttankguide.net/ and http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/Tropical_Fish-A_Beginners_Guide.pdf


THere's also plenty of information on many forums
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/

The most important thing to learn as a beginner is the nitrogen cycle
https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/The_Nitrogen_Cycle

The resources above you are probably excellent. I would get started by reading about how to cycle a tank. The idea, in short, is to set up a tank and filter and have it run for two or three weeks before putting fish inside.

Getting back to you fellas a bit late but I appreciate the help. Turns out I also asked for advice on the first page many years ago when I was in a very different place lol. Once I get a desk in my bedroom I'll start digging in a little more since so far I've only read about cycling the tank. Did I read that right though that I can add plants immediately as I begin the nitrogen cycle and all I need to wait on is adding fish/shrimp?
 
Corys are so derpy. All they want to do is scoot.

I miss having cories, but I don't think they'd work well with my BN Pleco.

She gets kind of aggressive protecting her food. It's not uncommon to see her flair all her fins and spines and thrash around because a stupid Danio was trying to snag a bite of an algae cookie (stupid Danio thinks he's a bottom feeder).
 

JoeNut

Member
Getting back to you fellas a bit late but I appreciate the help. Turns out I also asked for advice on the first page many years ago when I was in a very different place lol. Once I get a desk in my bedroom I'll start digging in a little more since so far I've only read about cycling the tank. Did I read that right though that I can add plants immediately as I begin the nitrogen cycle and all I need to wait on is adding fish/shrimp?

Yes you can put plants in from the get go, if you're trying to get the tank cycled you'll need an ammonia source though, so the plants won't help in that regard.
It's fun just scaping a tank without any fish though, getting everything in it's right place so it looks good is a neverending challenge, picking substrate and decor is just as important as choosing the fish.
Plants do help though in an established tank as they absorb the nitrate, and actually require it to grow.

You could try the aquatic plant society for aquascaping advice https://www.ukaps.org/forum/forums/tutorials.34/
 

kendrid

Banned
Totally doing this in our next house. I could do it in this one now, but we're planning on selling within 2 years. I'd rather not have to move it ever if possible. Such a long time to wait. Maybe I'll get a medium sized cichlid tank running until then. Been wanting a tank ever since we bought the place. Your setup is perfect for my basement office plan and since we'll be buying new again I can design the basement walls accordingly to accommodate everything behind it properly.

Thanks for the inspiration! And if you have any tips, or things you'd have done differently, do post them. I'll do a lot of research before I start buying parts but it's always good to learn from the mistakes others have made. Or if you haven't made any, just copy you basically!

One thing I did a bit different than most people with in wall tanks is I have mine so the tank is as close to the drywall as possible. Many people set their tanks back behind the wall framing which makes the tank 4" back from the drywall. Since the wall was not load bearing I carefully removed the studs, slid the tank stand into place and secured the drywall to the stand. My tank glass is 1" back from the drywall.

I opted to not have a front access panel above the tank. A lot of them don't look nice and I don't think I am enough of a craftsman to build a nice looking door. It can be a pain always having to access the tank from the rear but with my setup with my work desk in front of the tank I really couldn't reach down into the tank without crawling on my desk.

I end up buying another magnet cleaner so I have one always on the front glass and one in the rear. It was a pain to move it from the front glass to the back. I actually have to use two different cleaners on the front. I use a Hammerhead for the main glass and a Flipper with a metal blade to get behind the trim pieces. I don't like using metal blades on the main glass (afraid of scratches). The Hammerhead is a velcro based cleaner and unless sand get in between it and the glass there is almost zero chance of scratching.

When the time comes for you to build if you want detailed photos of the back shoot me an IM.
 

JoeNut

Member
The cichlids are way less shy now they've been in the tank a few weeks, coming straight up for food and generally exploring.
I've just ordered some floating dwarf water lettuce to give some shade which should help them feel more secure too.
I'm adding more and more leaf litter as personally i love the brown tint and more natural environment it creates.

Looking at getting some hatchetfish in a couple of weeks once the floating plant is in, they look awesome and should add something to the top of the tank which isn't really inhabited right now.

 

Neverfade

Member
Any tips on how much to feed 5 corys?

Got some shrimp pellets I've been using since I got them a couple days ago and some bloodworms in the freezer but could probably use a little guidance on honing in on the right balance.
 

Baraka in the White House

2-Terms of Kombat
Any tips on how much to feed 5 corys?

Got some shrimp pellets I've been using since I got them a couple days ago and some bloodworms in the freezer but could probably use a little guidance on honing in on the right balance.

Hikari makes a sinking wafer for bottom feeders that isn't mostly plant-based like algae wafers.
 
I've always wanted to get into aquascaping. Anyone have some good starter articles for small tanks?

The best advice I can give you in regards to aquascaping is to draw a sketch of what youd like and then when you go pick out your rock try to match the pieces with what youd like. Buy a really tough drill bit and some fiberglass driveway markers from Home Depot. You can drill holes through the rock and secure the rock with the fiberglass rods. Once you realize how much being able to actually build a sculpture opens up your options, the sky is the limit. I like to take flat pieces of live rock and make what amounts to bonsai trees.

And hey aquarium gaf, didnt realize there was a thread. I have a 29G reef cube and a 90G reef display with a 40 gallon sump. Im obsessed.
 

JoeNut

Member
Any tips on how much to feed 5 corys?

Got some shrimp pellets I've been using since I got them a couple days ago and some bloodworms in the freezer but could probably use a little guidance on honing in on the right balance.
i use sinking catfish pellets, generally 1 per cory twice a day, with 1 day a week of no feeding. Remember that Cory's are scavengers, they'll find food that's been missed elsewhere, giving them at least 1 day of not feeding will actually make sure they hoover the tank for you.

I've always wanted to get into aquascaping. Anyone have some good starter articles for small tanks?
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/forums/tutorials.34/
There are numerous guides on here, the first article is a youtube vid on nano aquariums.

The best advice I can give you in regards to aquascaping is to draw a sketch of what youd like and then when you go pick out your rock try to match the pieces with what youd like. Buy a really tough drill bit and some fiberglass driveway markers from Home Depot. You can drill holes through the rock and secure the rock with the fiberglass rods. Once you realize how much being able to actually build a sculpture opens up your options, the sky is the limit. I like to take flat pieces of live rock and make what amounts to bonsai trees.

And hey aquarium gaf, didnt realize there was a thread. I have a 29G reef cube and a 90G reef display with a 40 gallon sump. Im obsessed.
Hey welcome, i'm glad you found us as there's not many of us in here regularly posting, do you have any pictures?


I got some floating plants this weekend, looking forward to them growing and bedding in more, i can already see the difference it's made with my cichlids confidence of reaching the surface.
 

Allforce

Member
We finally got around to setting up a tank that was given to us by some friends, it's a 54G corner tank with a stand. I want to do a freshwater setup since this is the first tank we've ever tried to set up and I have some questions regarding plants.

The guy at the local fish store (which is an actual dedicated aquarium store, not like a Petland) said it's not really necessary to have live plants and that it makes things generally more difficult in terms of having the right lighting, maintenance, etc, however reading online I see the consensus really seems to be having live plants as they are just better for the fish and the tank in terms of limiting algae, providing a more natural habitat, etc.

Is this a big deal or am I overthinking it? It's a BIG tank and people have told me that the bigger the tank the easier it really is to maintain a consistent environment. I have it in the corner where no light will really get to it and wasn't really planning on getting live plants but now I'm waffling.

Thanks! Looking forward to posting a shit ton of questions in here going forward!
 

JoeNut

Member
We finally got around to setting up a tank that was given to us by some friends, it's a 54G corner tank with a stand. I want to do a freshwater setup since this is the first tank we've ever tried to set up and I have some questions regarding plants.

The guy at the local fish store (which is an actual dedicated aquarium store, not like a Petland) said it's not really necessary to have live plants and that it makes things generally more difficult in terms of having the right lighting, maintenance, etc, however reading online I see the consensus really seems to be having live plants as they are just better for the fish and the tank in terms of limiting algae, providing a more natural habitat, etc.

Is this a big deal or am I overthinking it? It's a BIG tank and people have told me that the bigger the tank the easier it really is to maintain a consistent environment. I have it in the corner where no light will really get to it and wasn't really planning on getting live plants but now I'm waffling.

Thanks! Looking forward to posting a shit ton of questions in here going forward!

Plants are great! first tip is that the darker the leaves, the less light they require, so any sort of anubia is basically bulletproof. Amazon swords are great for filling out the background and Vallis are a nice background plant too. All you need is lights on for 8 hours a day (which i expect you'd do anyway for viewing) and you should be set.

Advantages of plants are that they actually absorb nitrate, which is the byproduct of nitrite, essentially meaning they take out the bad stuff, meaning less maintenance.

They also look great! they'll make the tank look more natural and really do not require any maintenance other than putting them in.

Plants also provide a shelter for the fish, who will otherwise often be timid, this helps them "colour up" and look better.

If you're worried about having to buy loads of plants to fill it, why not have a big load of wood and rocks at one side, and surround it with plants, leaving the other side almost empty of decoration, this is known as the "rule of thirds" being that one third of the tank is heavily planted/decorated, and 2 thirds are for viewing.

https://www.thegreenmachineonline.c...osition-the-golden-ratio-creating-perspectiv/

this image kind of shows what i mean, being one major focal point. ignore the triangles i don't know what they are. but google Aquascaping or look at the link above for more ideas.


attachment.php


I don't actually use this myself as my tank is small, but for bigger tanks it can mean less filling required.

What are you thinking of stocking fish wise? a biotope or general community for example
 

Allforce

Member
Right now I'm just in the super early stages of getting the tank set up properly. I have had recommendations of just some mollies and danios and other easy tropical freshwater fish to start with. Nothing really exciting I guess but I'd rather start slow.

I went to a PetSmart today (just to look at fish since it's closer than the aquarium store) and liked a lot of the mollies. Funky little colors and seemed to be pretty active. Any other recommendations? I'd like a variety eventually since the tank is pretty large but I also want everyone to be chill and cool with each other. Seems like there's a decent amount of charts out there showing you what species like to hang with what so I'm open to anything.
 

JoeNut

Member
my advice on stocking would be to really research what you buy before you get them, not only for parameters and other requirements, but also to ensure you'll want to keep them for their lifetime, or to consider how you would rehome. lots of fish have at least a 4 year lifetime, so essentially making a quick purchase now could leave you stuck with no options going forward.

My example of this is that i bought 15 serpae tetra, they were great but i soon realised that i couldn't keep them with anything with long fins, as they nip, which ruled out a huge number of tankmates.

I eventually found someone to rehome them after i'd had them almost a year. it's something to consider i think.

You could look into a biotope, getting species from one particular area. it's also worth testing your local water and trying to match the parameters, if your local water is hard, it's going to be tough for you to keep soft water fish without a lot of messing around. and vice versa.
 

sleepnaught

Member
Really neat aquariums here. I've actually been thinking of starting one myself, but havent a clue where to begin. Would getting a 100 gallon tank as a beginner be biting off too much? Any good reading resources for beginners?
 
probably freshwater

A larger tank is easier to maintain water parameters in either fresh or salt. With saltwater, it's usually recommended to start large due to evaporation being able to wreck the salinity of a small tank.

If you're looking for a challenge, I'd go with saltwater. I always grew bored with my freshwater tanks. My saltwater tanks offer so much that it's a constant learning process.
 

Allforce

Member
The HOB filter I bought turned out to be too wide to use anywhere on my corner tank. Any thoughts on canister filters for a first-timer? They don't seem to complicated and I have the patience to try it. Is it worth it to spend the extra money up front and do it right from the beginning? I'm looking at an EHEIM Classic 250 which is only about 90 bucks Vs 30-40 for a different model of HOB filter that would fit.

I didn't really explore this option before (Just bought the HOB filter from a friend telling me what to get), but it seems to really be great for just keeping a clean and quiet presentation going at all times. I have a cabinet underneath my tank which is a 54 gallon corner bowfront.
 
I've never owned fish.. I've never been really that interested, but I came across the Aquascaping works of James Findley (and then Amarno) and I am not sure I have ever seen art that cool before. These aquascapes are self sustained ecosystems.
And I guess, as I've been reading too much about the plastic ocean and all the terrible things going on in the climate, I sort of just have become really interested in planted tanks. I've not taken a new hobby for many years, and it's a nice feeling when you get excited about getting into something new.

So I've spend a couple of weeks reading, studying and learning. My knowledge was zero- I didn't even know that you had to do weekly water changes. Kinda shows how ignorant I've been, but looking at the aquarium reddit, I see so many posts about people who get fish and then they immediately because they don't know about cycling or water changes.
I've learned about greedy pet stores, people who get Finding Nemo/Finding Dory fish as a pass time and then get bored with them.
I discovered King of DYI and was totally floored by all his tips and tricks on how you can make all sorts of filters.
I had a lot of stereotypical perceptions on fish keeping, but I think it's really really cool. I totally see I had no idea.



My thing is that at the same time, I discovered these fascinating creatures (I had seen a picture once, but had no idea people kept them as pets, or that they were basically extinct), called Axolotls ("the Mexican Walking Fish").


They are technically Salamanders, but they never evolve beyond their Larvae stage. So they are this weird combo of a fish and a salamander. People say they are relatively easy to keep, but unfortunately they don't make good tank mates with anything. Small fish nip at their gills (those fluffy things) and they will eat any fish that is smaller than the size of their head.

The lake they come from in Mexico is totally poluted and destroyed, so they are basically for all intends and purposes extinct. They are illegal to release in the wild as they could wreck havoc on the ecosystems. At the same time, they are in abundance in captivity and the are used in labs all over the world.
These guys regenerate like Wolverine on Steroids. If they get their leg bitten off, they will regrow a new limb in a month. But what is more is that, you could reattach a limb (like a leg or foot) and then attach that to the Axolotls body, and the new limb would function!! These guys.. They look like pokemon but have unnatural abillities.


They are cold water animals so you don't need a heater, but they are very sensitive to water quality. So this is one of my big concerns. I would like a total planted carpeted tank (The Monte Carlo looks amazing). The thing is, since these animals breathe through their skin, root fertilizers, and CO2 could kill them.

I've spend a lot of time trying to read back and forth between the people who say you cannot have a low tech planted tank that looks really good without high light/CO2/ferts, and those who say that it's possible but you just need to give it more time.

My plan was to make a very shallow tank like this in the Iwagumi style:


I would want to make it almost 17-0 foot long, and 15 inches in depth and 15 inches in height. Since Axolotls mainly use the sea floor, having a shallow tank could reduce the amount of water needed for water changes, and it would be easier to make water changes, cut the carpet frequently and clean the tank if its so shallow. Having a shallow tank also decreases the amount of glass thickness needed. The price of custom glass increases quite significantly if you need really thick glass, but at a shallow aquarium the pressure is less, and 5-6 mm of glass thickness would be okay from the charts I've seen.

Axolotls don't have eyelids so they are not that happy with lights. They need to have hides, and they don't mind being in the darkness. For that reason I think I would put the tank in my bedroom over a custom drawer. With no natural light, algie is reduced, and it would be more dark more of the time. I also think it would be cool to go to bed and be able to just look at them and enjoy them with a very very dim blue fluorescent light as they are nocturnal and active at night.



It's a shame they cannot co-exist with anything. Shrimps and snails will get eaten, and some of them can get stuck in the axolotls mouths. The axolotls can't have gravel bottom as they will suck up the gravel and possible die from contraction, so they need very fine sand. Algie eaters and suckers can remove their slime coating and be detrimental to their health and other schools of fish can just stress them out.

The only two groups of fish I've seen that people have with them are gupies and white mountain mannows. I think both of these are cool, and it would be fun to have a separate breeding tank, where you could transfer a few gupies once and a while into the axolotl tank and give the axolotls a treat. In a heavily planted tank, you might have that the fry survives and can sustain a population.
But people also say that Gupies are not the best bet, simply because Gupies are tropical, and while they can live in colder temperatures (Axolotls need 60-70 degrees F- Any higher and the will very likely die), they don't thrive.
The white mountain minnows though are perfect as they are also coldwater fish, and would do well in the axolotl tank. They are also talked about as being a well behaved schooling fish that doesn't nip. They are well documented as being a good breeding fish.

But I don't know if that would be something I'd do. Most of all I am really interested in having a planted carpeted tank with axolotls. That's my goal:) Question is if I can do it, with a T5 Medium Light.
People hype up the aquasoil as being really really good, and its supposed to be safe for Axolotls. Looking at the logistics, I think the amount of soil and the plant pots will be one of the biggest expenses.
As for Filters I've looked at the Fluval U4 submerged filter. Perhaps having 2 of them, with the flow being aimed towards the glass ( Axolotls don't like a lot of flow). They are quite big, but it's a 100 gallon tank, and I think these filters are less ugly than many others.



I just wonder if it will be realistic to get a planted tank without the CO2 and ferts. if you get a tank, and use money on plants, and then the plants die right away, that would suck. I think this "dry start" method was interesting.
 
So bummed. I lost a Naso Tang yesterday. The night before he was coming to the top of the tank to eat from my fingers. Yesterday I woke up and you could just tell he was dying. No idea what happened.
 

JoeNut

Member

Impressed with the research you've put in, to answer something you mentioned in short, yes it's possible to have plants without ferts or Co2, you'll be fine with the more common low light requirement things such as anubia etc.

Good luck if you start this project, it's pretty specialist and i would expect that you'll require some mature media to start the filter with, do you know anyone with a tank who could give you some sponge or bio balls they use?

keep us updated.
 
Just a friendly reminder that waste water from freshwater tanks can be used to water your lawn or land plants. The organics and waste products from the water nourishes the beneficial fungi and bacteria in the soil and provides nutrients to the plants.

Also, in a 29 gallon tank, would you guys go for a Gourami or Angel? Also, what kind of Gourami/Angelfish would you guys go with?
 

JoeNut

Member
29 gallons is about 110 litres i think, which might be a touch too small for more than a couple of angels, although i'm sure you could have a few.
Gourami's come in many varieties, you might want to steer away from dwarf ones, in england anyway, they're extremely inbred, and don't tend to last long.

i found this on google http://gourami-fish.com/

Should be useful
 
I'll probably end up going with a single Angel to add interest in the 29 gallon tank which houses mollies that are mostly black. I think the Angel's height might make the tank more visually attractive.

I'm in no hurry though, especially since it seems like the mollies are having some health issues with their swim bladder. Don't really know what to do since it seems to be caused by their odd obsession with eating each other's poop. At least it keeps the sand clean? I don't know.

Actually, aren't there shrimp that will clean up fish poop? Are there any shrimp that can do that and survive being with mollies and angels?
 

DonMigs85

Member
I'll probably end up going with a single Angel to add interest in the 29 gallon tank which houses mollies that are mostly black. I think the Angel's height might make the tank more visually attractive.

I'm in no hurry though, especially since it seems like the mollies are having some health issues with their swim bladder. Don't really know what to do since it seems to be caused by their odd obsession with eating each other's poop. At least it keeps the sand clean? I don't know.

Actually, aren't there shrimp that will clean up fish poop? Are there any shrimp that can do that and survive being with mollies and angels?

You should still be siphoning up waste from the gravel at least once a week. You can also get kuhli loaches or corydoras since they can eat food that falls to the bottom.
 
You should still be siphoning up waste from the gravel at least once a week. You can also get kuhli loaches or corydoras since they can eat food that falls to the bottom.

That's the thing though. There's no poop to be siphoned from the sand because it keeps on being consumed while I'm not looking. I only bring that part up because I actually saw one of these mollies go up to another and consume the poop hanging from that one without spitting it out. These mollies are extremely voracious. The male mollies in my 20H tank (no females, but born from the same group of fry) are nowhere near as voracious as the females in the 29G tank (again, same sex only to prevent a million babies). Those males are also the healthiest mollies I have. Go figure.

I was considering cories early on, but these female mollies will devour any and all things they consider food and look for more, even at the substrate, which is sand. They'll grab a mouthful of sand and spit it out if there's no food. Do they spit it out if there IS
food? I don't actually know. All I know is that they rarely let food fall to the substrate.

I was reading similar stories and one mentioned that they do that in the wild to keep their digestive bacteria healthy and another suggested that they might be doing that because they're missing something in their diet.

Long story short, there's no poop or food actually on the sand by the time I do my Saturday water changes, in which I draw and replace about 7 gallons. Speaking of, the swim bladder issue happened after I changed out about 15 gallons of water, replacing about 5 gallons every hour until filled. That's when the issues started. Maybe that was the issue?
 

JVIDICAN

Member
Water changes are driving me crazy lately. Had 4 fish die on the last one, and the rest gasping at the top of the tank for a day.. Only thing I could find wrong was pH was 7.4 instead of the usual 8.2 despite the directed amount of pH buffer being added for the change.. added more buffer, prime and stress coat and was able to save the rest. I'm wondering if the city is doing anything with the water and the regular dose of declorinator isn't enough to correct it.

Such a damn shame that it's always the new, more expensive fish that get hit the hardest.
 
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