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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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jamie0601

Neo Member
So I've got this build planned...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($220.00 @ IJK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($96.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($103.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($499.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($150.00 @ Centre Com)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.99 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $1676.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-19 03:32 EST+1100

Anything I should adjust?

This is the very same build that I but together yesterday (apart from the PSU and RAM) and I'm incredibly happy with mine. It's handled everything I've thrown at it up to now with ease!
 

bomblord1

Banned
Anyone here have experience with HIS as a manufacturer? Newegg has a HIS 285 for 169.99 (after rebate) and I'm wondering if it's worth it.
 
They have arrived!

16235519393_c967e794aa_b.jpg

16235602193_299e2c7289_b.jpg


Will have to hook them up later. Install new drivers. All of that. PC Porn pics later.

Um.... :eek:
 

kennah

Member
Okay, so I've run into a new problem: It looks like I'll actually need 4GB of VRAM to take advantage of nVidia iRay properly, since a lot of rendering scenes will fill up the buffer fairly quickly. This means I have a couple of options: buy a lower-end 740 4GB card, or buy one of the newer cards like a 760. Only problem is that the 760 is out of my budget range...


Sooooo. I may have a third option but it requires some feedback from people here since I don't know how dual-gpus work. I could theoretically spring for a 740 4GB card right now, and later spring for a more expensive card (maybe even an AMD one!) while placing the 740 in the PCI-E x4 slot. However...

- Does mixing/matching AMD and nVidia cards even work, even if I'm not using PhysX?
- Is this ultimately a waste of money in the long term (ie. effectively buying twice) and I should just save up a bit more for a better card? The argument against this would be the 770 (next card up that can handle 4GB) is quite a bit more expensive than a 740 and a mid-range (nVidia) card.

AMD cards won't do what you need it to do at all. From what I can find the software requires CUDA cores, (which only nvidia gpus have). You might have to find a used Quadro to get the most out of what you're trying to do. The GT740 only has 384 CUDA cores, where the 760 has 1152. Three times as many.

What exactly are you trying todo? I missed your earlier post. Is this something you are doing professionally, for education or for hobby? What do you already have and what si your budget.

Your best bet might be to find a used 670 or 680. They are essentially the 760 and 770.
 

Chinbo37

Member
LOL anyone ever trouble shoot an issue for so long only to realize at the end it was the most stupid/simple solution that you never thought of?


I got an Asus Xonar D2X sound card and hooked it up to an amp via 3.5mm to RCA cables.

I cant run HDMI cause the receiver is old with no HDMI so I am just using it as an amp.


ANYWAYS I hooked everything up 2 days ago and for some reason I wasnt getting any subwoofer output. I thought it was my reciever, trying all settings, sub cross over levels, speaker levels etc.

Then I thought it was the setting in my sound card so I played with everything and was reasearching online for hours to see if anyone else had the same issue.

Couldnt figure it out then I thought my sub pass through on my reciever was bad, trying everthing including hooking up the RCA direct from my sound card to my sub, it was working for a bit but then stopped again. I was stumped and was convinced that my old receiver was broken.




Well it was a bad RCA cable, thats it. Not sure I ordered a bunch new but this one wasnt working properly. LOL, I feel like such an idiot.
 
Switch the PSU for this. The Corsair CX line is not the best.

You could save a small amount by switching motherboards to this but it's no big deal.

Could get Windows at r/microsoftsoftwareswap for a lot less. You *might* want to consider getting some low-profile RAM but I don't think you'll run into any issues with the 212 Evo.

This is the very same build that I but together yesterday (apart from the PSU and RAM) and I'm incredibly happy with mine. It's handled everything I've thrown at it up to now with ease!

Thanks guys.
 

Rezae

Member
Quick noob question with ram:

I currently have 2x2gb installed from 5 years ago. I can get an exact matching 4gb stick (same brand, frequency, etc.) for cheap.

Is this advisable (3 sticks for 8gb) and is there a certain way I should pair them? My current 2x2 should be paired up correctly for dual channel, I believe something like:

<empty> <ram> <empty><ram>

If I stick a 4gb in there, where do I plug it?
 

yatesl

Member
Has anyone had experience with the Seagate Expansion 5TB? A 5TB hard drive for £120 seems too good to be true (especially external) and I've ordered it, but I'm just weary.

It has 2242 5* ratings on Amazon, but 228 1* reviews saying it failed. Obviously 10:1 is pretty good reviews, but you never pay attention to good ones.

Nothing "critical" will be going on there - I'll be using it for my media collection - so everything will be replaceable, but it'd be nice if I didn't lose everything in 6 months
 

Rufus

Member
Quick noob question with ram:

I currently have 2x2gb installed from 5 years ago. I can get an exact matching 4gb stick (same brand, frequency, etc.) for cheap.

Is this advisable (3 sticks for 8gb) and is there a certain way I should pair them? My current 2x2 should be paired up correctly for dual channel, I believe something like:

<empty> <ram> <empty><ram>

If I stick a 4gb in there, where do I plug it?
Your motherboard's manual will almost certainly cover that. The language might be a little confusing though if mine is anything to go by.
 

SRG01

Member
AMD cards won't do what you need it to do at all. From what I can find the software requires CUDA cores, (which only nvidia gpus have). You might have to find a used Quadro to get the most out of what you're trying to do. The GT740 only has 384 CUDA cores, where the 760 has 1152. Three times as many.

What exactly are you trying todo? I missed your earlier post. Is this something you are doing professionally, for education or for hobby? What do you already have and what si your budget.

Your best bet might be to find a used 670 or 680. They are essentially the 760 and 770.

Okay, I guess I'll back up a bit:

- My original intent was to purchase a i7 rig for a lot of different things (ie. simulation, rendering, etc), plus a R270x potentially for gaming
- A lot of renders started to adopt nVidia iRay so I was looking at the 750Ti as a potential candidate since it was nVidia and it had decent performance for gaming.
- I ran this suggestion in one of the forums I go to and they said that the 750Ti doesn't have enough VRAM to do what I want (or at least, anything beyond simple environment and figures and lighting) and suggested I get the 740 as a budget solution.
- However, the 740 is quite old and I don't want to buy an obsoleted card...

That's the scenario thus far.
 

rtcn63

Member
Has anyone had experience with the Seagate Expansion 5TB? A 5TB hard drive for £120 seems too good to be true (especially external) and I've ordered it, but I'm just weary.

It has 2242 5* ratings on Amazon, but 228 1* reviews saying it failed. Obviously 10:1 is pretty good reviews, but you never pay attention to good ones.

Nothing "critical" will be going on there - I'll be using it for my media collection - so everything will be replaceable, but it'd be nice if I didn't lose everything in 6 months

Last I checked, the Expansions were more prone to overheating than even the Plus', which suffered because of it.

I've been using Plus' for years. Anecdotal, had two 3TB drives fail, one nearly three years old, one two. Have three 4TB drives that have been around for a year.

My advice? Buy in pairs, mirror the data. Once you start getting noticeable bad clusters/dead sectors/disconnects, you've got a few months at most before the drive becomes useless. (This has been my experience with Seagate externals. On the positive side, never had a drive just die straight out, always errors beforehand.)
 

yatesl

Member
Last I checked, the Expansions were more prone to overheating than even the Plus', which suffered because of it.

I've been using Plus' for years. Anecdotal, had two 3TB drives fail, one nearly three years old, one two. Have three 4TB drives that have been around for a year.

My advice? Buy in pairs, mirror the data. Once you start getting noticeable bad clusters/dead sectors/disconnects, you've got a few months at most before the drive becomes useless. (This has been my experience with Seagate externals. On the positive side, never had a drive just die straight out, always errors beforehand.)

Thanks. I'm impatient and bought one from Argos straight away.

I'm running out of space so I'll risk it if it's gradual, although hopefully last for more than a year...


Edit: Seems DOA. Plugged in, blue light is on, but Windows doesn't make a noise and it doesn't show up in Disk Management. Wonderful
 

kennah

Member
The dream is dead, lol. The computer that I bought to use the Xeon processor in my computer won't work with my i3. Even a BIOS update won't make it compatible. So I'm back to square one, except with a computer on my hands that I don't need :p. Hopefully I can find someone to buy it for what I paid for it.
 
I've only ever gamed on my tv. (46 inch) I got a decent rig hooked up (4790k, 780ti 16 gb ram). I've been considering getting a decent monitor with a high refresh rate and g-sync. Would the rog swift be be a decent purchase? I'd have to get a dedicated pc setup instead of my couch and TV.


And tips, comments, or suggestions?
 

Jomjom

Banned
That is solid for 500. Normally build with i7 and that gaming board rarely stays below 900 with GPU.

Thanks for the info! I'm hoping I can someday get a 290x or 290 for around $250 or less. I would like to be under $700 if possible.

Until then, I'm going to play indies and Witcher 1 on the Intel HD Graphics 4600!
 

delta25

Banned
They have arrived!

16235519393_c967e794aa_b.jpg

16235602193_299e2c7289_b.jpg


Will have to hook them up later. Install new drivers. All of that. PC Porn pics later.

smokey I hope this isn't too personal, but what to you do for a living that allows you to replace such high end GPU' on such a regular basis.
 

Drago

Member
I decided to mess around with OCing a bit but now I'm getting WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR bsods (Win8.1). They occur at random pretty much, when I'm trying to run a game or if I'm just using a browser or whatever. I tried going into the BIOS and loading default settings but that isn't helping with anything. Says my core clock is 3900mhz despite my clock ratio being 35. I have an i5 4690k and a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 mobo, is there anything I can do to fix this? :(
 
I decided to mess around with OCing a bit but now I'm getting WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR bsods (Win8.1). They occur at random pretty much, when I'm trying to run a game or if I'm just using a browser or whatever. I tried going into the BIOS and loading default settings but that isn't helping with anything. Says my core clock is 3900mhz despite my clock ratio being 35. I have an i5 4690k and a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 mobo, is there anything I can do to fix this? :(

You set default settings and still get that ?

What is your temp? Your CPU heatsink might be loose, try remove and put on new paste and reseat it tightly.
 

LilJoka

Member
I decided to mess around with OCing a bit but now I'm getting WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR bsods (Win8.1). They occur at random pretty much, when I'm trying to run a game or if I'm just using a browser or whatever. I tried going into the BIOS and loading default settings but that isn't helping with anything. Says my core clock is 3900mhz despite my clock ratio being 35. I have an i5 4690k and a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 mobo, is there anything I can do to fix this? :(

Single core turbo is 3.9Ghz.
If you load up Prime95 and load all cores itll drop to 3.5Ghz.

Are you still getting BSODs at stock settings?
 

Drago

Member
You set default settings and still get that ?

What is your temp? Your CPU heatsink might be loose, try remove and put on new paste and reseat it tightly.

HWMonitor tells me temps are around 40C

Single core turbo is 3.9Ghz.
If you load up Prime95 and load all cores itll drop to 3.5Ghz.

Are you still getting BSODs at stock settings?
Will run a test now. And yes even after loading defaults I'm still getting BSOD
 

Smokey

Member
Selling anything that you replaced with the Titan X? :p Or is it gone already haha.

I had the firesale on those 2 Titan Blacks like a month ago in preparation for this :p The 3rd Titan Black that I have is pending.

So if you think you want a well taken care of high end GPU...pay attention to announcements or rumors...that's when I usually pop up with a firesale lol
 

Ryne

Member
Heads up to anyone looking to shop with Newegg.ca. They told me they shipped my order on Monday and gave me a tracking number but purolator.com doesn't have any info on the shipment yet.

I contacted newegg and they said to wait until tomorrow to see if there's information on the tracking. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do after that...

Buyer beware if you're looking for any type of speedy shipping, Newegg has one black spot.

In good news, the NCIX order I placed on Monday is going to arrive today.

(I'm in Victoria)

Yup, Newegg Canada is pretty slow with shipping. I don't expect my items to arrive in less than 5 days with them. Sometimes it's due to the fact some of their newer items come from Industry, CA, but most of the time it's still just slow.
 

RGM79

Member
So I've got this build planned...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($220.00 @ IJK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($96.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($103.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($499.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($150.00 @ Centre Com)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.99 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $1676.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-19 03:32 EST+1100

Anything I should adjust?

This is a bit late, but there are definitely a bunch of things you could change.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($185.00 @ IJK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($98.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 290 4GB DirectCU II Video Card ($393.00 @ IJK)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($150.00 @ Centre Com)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.99 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $1676.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-19 08:38 EST+1100

1. Changed the Gaming 5 motherboard for the cheaper Gaming 3 model from the same range. There won't be a lot of difference, as they have a similar feature set, you can see the differences for yourself here. Basically the cheaper Gaming 3 model just has different PCI-E layout, lacks SLI support, two fewer USB 2.0 ports, and 6 power phase instead of 8 (still more than enough for overclocking).

2. Found faster memory for $2 more. I'd recommend higher speed memory for Z97 systems anyway.

3. Was able to fit a 256GB Crucial SSD into the budget. I cannot recommend the Samsung 840 Evo anyway, it has some lingering performance issues that Samsung hasn't been entirely able to get rid of.

4. I don't recommend Seagate, they seem to have a higher failure rate than other competitors' hard drives. Toshiba is a reliable enough brand and is actually slightly cheaper for 2TB.

5. Are you aware of the GTX 970's memory issues? While the GTX 970 remains an excellent card for 1080p gaming and in general, the memory issue and AMD's price cuts make it easier to recommend the R9 290/290X, which are now better than the GTX 970 in terms of price to performance. For a lot less money, you get comparable performance.

6. Corsair CX, as others have said, are budget power supplies. Not awful, but you can often find something better for the same price or even cheaper. That EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt power supply is very good quality - it's manufactured by Super Flower, one of the best power supply manufacturers period. Can't complain about having more wattage capacity for less money. Jonny Guru also gave it high marks in his review.

Basically, saving money on the motherboard and graphics card means you don't have to get a tiny 120GB SSD, yet you're still getting a decent performing 1080p graphics card and a capable motherboard. There's also another place to save money..

Windows 8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $25 AUD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are unapproved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement to be clear, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it, although it's somewhat unlikely. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months, possibly because the sellers were caught. It's up to you, but saving $100 there means you could spend it on the rest of the PC, or just pocket the difference.
 

Drago

Member
Ok there is no need to run prime95 if you still get BSOD.

Check the temperatures using HWMonitor.
running a test already, temps hovering just under 70C and my CPU clocks are now locked at 3699MHz for all 4 cores it seems (both min and max values are the same). My max value was at 4700MHz before despite me loading default, I feel like whatever was causing that couldve been the problem but I didn't know how to fix that.

will these clock frequencies stay the same when the test ends?
 

LilJoka

Member
running a test already, temps hovering just under 70C and my CPU clocks are now locked at 3699MHz for all 4 cores it seems (both min and max values are the same). My max value was at 4700MHz before despite me loading default, I feel like whatever was causing that couldve been the problem but I didn't know how to fix that.

will these clock frequencies stay the same when the test ends?

The test runs for infinity. Once you quit the test the clock speeds should drop significanlty. I believe the Haswell CPUs idle below 1Ghz.

For more accurate CPU clock monitoring use CPUz.

Temperatures are fine. If the CPU was unstable that would have instant BSOD.
 

thespot84

Member
I decided to mess around with OCing a bit but now I'm getting WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR bsods (Win8.1). They occur at random pretty much, when I'm trying to run a game or if I'm just using a browser or whatever. I tried going into the BIOS and loading default settings but that isn't helping with anything. Says my core clock is 3900mhz despite my clock ratio being 35. I have an i5 4690k and a Gigabyte Z97-HD3 mobo, is there anything I can do to fix this? :(

you never changed your clock? what then did you OC?
 

Drago

Member
The test runs for infinity. Once you quit the test the clock speeds should drop significanlty. I believe the Haswell CPUs idle below 1Ghz.

For more accurate CPU clock monitoring use CPUz.

Temperatures are fine. If the CPU was unstable that would have instant BSOD.
Well I ended the test and now my clock levels seem normal again. HWMoniter is telling me my max is 3900 like it should and CPUz is saying my core #0 speed is 800MHz which I assume is normal? Gonna try restarting the computer now and see where it goes from there. My computer was running perfectly fine until I started messing with some OC stuff.

you never changed your clock? what then did you OC?
I used this EasyTune test that my Gigabyte mobo can run. Said that I could handle 4.7GHz OC and everything kinda spiraled downward from there. I think I have a better understanding of how to OC from the BIOS now so if I try to OC again it won't be through that, lol
 

LilJoka

Member
Well I ended the test and now my clock levels seem normal again. HWMoniter is telling me my max is 3900 like it should and CPUz is saying my core #0 speed is 800MHz which I assume is normal? Gonna try restarting the computer now and see where it goes from there. My computer was running perfectly fine until I started messing with some OC stuff.

Sounds fine to me.

We will need more details to work out why the BSOD is occurring, possibly some software or driver issue.
 

thespot84

Member
Sounds fine to me.

We will need more details to work out why the BSOD is occurring, possibly some software or driver issue.

whea_uncorrectable is the same bsod I would get when my voltage wasn't high enough for the clock on a my gigabyte z87 board, so I imagine the multiplier got upped but the voltage didn't follow.

I would still use easy tune, just don't use the auto function. play around with the light/medium/extreme options and see what it gets you.

once you're dialed in you'll also want to check if your ram is running currently under an XMP profile (mine wasn't so I had to set it manually, made a huge difference)

What kind of cooling do you have?
 

LilJoka

Member
I used this EasyTune test that my Gigabyte mobo can run. Said that I could handle 4.7GHz OC and everything kinda spiraled downward from there. I think I have a better understanding of how to OC from the BIOS now so if I try to OC again it won't be through that, lol

Dont use that stuff, it barely tests stability hence your PC would boot but was totally unstable. Start slowly and read some guides, its not difficult to do yourself.
 

Drago

Member
whea_uncorrectable is the same bsod I would get when my voltage wasn't high enough for the clock on a my gigabyte z87 board, so I imagine the multiplier got upped but the voltage didn't follow.

I would still use easy tune, just don't use the auto function. play around with the light/medium/extreme options and see what it gets you.

once you're dialed in you'll also want to check if your ram is running currently under an XMP profile (mine wasn't so I had to set it manually, made a huge difference)

What kind of cooling do you have?

Hyper 212 EVO.

Well the browser seems to be working fine again and my clocks are back to 3500MHz. Hopefully I don't have much more trouble now, gonna try some games out and see how it goes.
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
My PC just turned on 1 beep or no beeps Can't recall

no POST or dispay. I don't think it even showed the motherboard brand when starting up.
I hit the restart button and it restarts and shows UFEI bios. Restarts and loads windows normally. in windows action report says that windows was not properly shut down the last time had the computer shut down

I need help, I'm thinking about taking it to geek squad or someplace


It started up and immeadity shuts down before the MB brand icon shows, startsd up agian and shows uefi bios on a blank screen, shuts down

Starts up again and load windows normally (agian)

Didn't have the problem for a while

I tried different RAM and don't think that's the problem
 

LilJoka

Member
I need help, I'm thinking about taking it to geek squad or someplace


It started up and immeadity shuts down before the MB brand icon shows, startsd up agian and shows uefi bios on a blank screen, shuts down

Starts up again and load windows normally (agian)

Didn't have the problem for a while

I tried different RAM and don't think that's the problem

Try to reset CMOS, unplug the power cable from the PSU. Remove the CMOS Battery from the motherboard. Leave for a minute, then put the battery back in and power up the PC.
 

KePoW

Banned
Try to reset CMOS, unplug the power cable from the PSU. Remove the CMOS Battery from the motherboard. Leave for a minute, then put the battery back in and power up the PC.

does removing the CMOS battery completely reset BIOS settings?? would you have to re-do them all?
 

Drago

Member
Ok yeah I've been browsing and gaming for almost an hour now with no problems. Seems my problem is fixed and I'm so glad. lol

Still wanna overclock but it won't be through EasyTune again. Unless using it for their presets works fine, that would make my life a little bit easier, but AutoTune just fucked me up man. :(
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I've only ever gamed on my tv. (46 inch) I got a decent rig hooked up (4790k, 780ti 16 gb ram). I've been considering getting a decent monitor with a high refresh rate and g-sync. Would the rog swift be be a decent purchase? I'd have to get a dedicated pc setup instead of my couch and TV.


And tips, comments, or suggestions?

I'm not sure what tv you have (4k or 1080p), but the ROG Swift is a highly recommended monitor. 27" + gsync + 1440p + 144hz if that's what your looking for.
Personally I'd much rather use a monitor for my pc and sit at a desk, and your tv most likely has a higher input lag as well.
 
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