What SwordStruck said. I had nothing but trouble with bloated anti-virus suites in the past and decided to stick to Windows Defender and common sense for my new Win10 installation.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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opticalmace
Member
n0razi
Member
Upgrading my gaming PC, hows it look boys?
i5 4670K -> i5 6600K ($199 @ Microcenter)
Asrock Z97 ITX -> Asrock fatality Z170 ITX ($140 @ Microcenter)
8gb DDR3 - > 32gb Gskill DDR4 ($90 at newegg)
240gb M500 mSATA -> ????
Im debating between the 500gb EVO m2 at $150 or the 512gb 950 Pro at $300, Im thinking its wiser to go with the EVO and upgrade to a 1tb NVMe drive down the line when prices fall a bit more
Keeping the GTX 970 until the 1070 comes out and also keeping my old case/psu and monitor (Acer XB270HU)
i5 4670K -> i5 6600K ($199 @ Microcenter)
Asrock Z97 ITX -> Asrock fatality Z170 ITX ($140 @ Microcenter)
8gb DDR3 - > 32gb Gskill DDR4 ($90 at newegg)
240gb M500 mSATA -> ????
Im debating between the 500gb EVO m2 at $150 or the 512gb 950 Pro at $300, Im thinking its wiser to go with the EVO and upgrade to a 1tb NVMe drive down the line when prices fall a bit more
Keeping the GTX 970 until the 1070 comes out and also keeping my old case/psu and monitor (Acer XB270HU)
opticalmace
Member
Seems like a lot of money for a minor CPU upgrade imho. If you do upgrade I would go for an i7, to add some differentiation.
Anyone?
MikeE21286
Member
What would be preferable?
32gb of DDR4 2133 speed or 16gb DDR4 3000 speed?
32gb of DDR4 2133 speed or 16gb DDR4 3000 speed?
So much time and money wasted for little to no gains.
Rellik
Member
Bitdefender. Been using it for 2 years now and it's been great. Plus they gave me an awesome deal at the end of my first year to keep me.
I agree, if not dropping in an i7 it is not worthwhile, the single core performance of your actually out does the chip your touting to replace it with
Elitist1945
Member
Anyone here have experience with Mixers and Microphones? I haven't a clue about them.
n0razi
Member
I sold all my old parts for about the same price as I paid for the new stuff.. just waited for good sales etc... I think I spent about $50 total for the overhaul so far besides the SSD. I was debating the i7 but I really dont do anything that needs the extra HP, the only reason I even considered upgrading was the $90 for 32gb DDR4 sale which kick started everything. I figured it was smarter so sell my Haswell stuff now while they still hold value and staying on the cutting edge vs waiting for my parts to be worthless and shelling out $1k in a year or two.
As long as your happy with it, and aware that you'll see next to no boost, then hey, it's your cash, $50 to swap platforms isn't bad.
From my original post earlier about my upgrade, i've just ordered a R9 Nano, i got it for £359, will be here Wednesday, missus is gonna be pissed, she gotta wait in for it to be delivered whilst i sleep. (Night Shift)
Couldn't warrant paying an extra £150 for the Fury X, not when reading the performance difference is negligible once bumping up the power settings a bit, it's not like its going into a crammed case, there's quite a bit of room in my Node 304.
n0razi
Member
Thats why im hung up on the SSD choice... its like I want the 950 Pro since I have a new platform and itching to see some upgrade over my Crucial M500 but I also know I will see almost no difference.
If you still have it i would stick with the M500, drives will continue to get faster / cheaper as time goes on.
Take the DDR3 to 16Gigs, and OC the cpu and you're golden for a while.
opticalmace
Member
Can't overclock that CPU.
Seems like a good deal though. Check what those parts go for on the used market to get a ballpark.
I'm considering upgrading my current PC -
RadeonHD 7850
i5 2500k
12 Gigs
but also I might as well just get a new PC near the end of the year to solely hook up to my TV (1080p)...
Not sure what to get. I hear about the new Nvidea cards, but wondering if I should go for something that new or just settle for a 970 or something...
RadeonHD 7850
i5 2500k
12 Gigs
but also I might as well just get a new PC near the end of the year to solely hook up to my TV (1080p)...
Not sure what to get. I hear about the new Nvidea cards, but wondering if I should go for something that new or just settle for a 970 or something...
Heya GAF, I am in need of some help very badly,
I haven't been on this thread for a while, but major props to the help I received last year when I built my current gaming PC!
I have a very strange predicament right now that's confusing the heck out of me and was wondering if any tech gurus could offer an explanation. I am all but convinced my Mobo is dead somehow, even though it can still power on under odd circumstances...
Let me preface this by saying that I have tried TONS of different methods to fix my current problem:
The problem is that my computer will not POST / boot anymore. It will also not turn off when I hold the power button anymore either, forcing me to shut it down via the PSU. If I plug in my monitor to the integrated graphics card it will cause my keyboard and Mobo to light up after about 30 minutes (with no HDD plugged in as well) usually indicating a boot, but will NOT display anything on the monitor. When I turn on my PSU, all fans spin and my installed GPU (Gtx 970) will light up and spin, but the computer will just not boot. I have gone crazy trying to solve my issue using tons of online resources but nothing has worked.
The list of fixes for this problem that I have tried includes, but is not limited to:
Resetting CMOS/ BIOS by using a new battery, using the jumper and resetting with the old battery
Checking auxiliary power plugs and fan plugs
Checking to see if any pins are bent on the Mobo
Testing with and without the installed GPU
Breadboarding
Rebuilding the computer from all parts being removed
Checking the base screws to test for shorting
Reapplying thermal paste (it's been over a year)
Trying a different PSU
Testing the PSU to see if it's faulty (it's not)
Testing each RAM stick individually (I have 4)
Testing to see if the Mobo is dead (I get three beeps when no RAM present)
Trying different monitors
Trying different HDMI / DVI cables
Trying different SATA ports
Trying to boot without any HDD plugged in
If anyone has ANYTHING to offer as advice for trying something new I will gladly respond after testing it (or if I have done it already and forgot to post it).
Please NeoGAF, I am begging you for some help here.
I haven't been on this thread for a while, but major props to the help I received last year when I built my current gaming PC!
I have a very strange predicament right now that's confusing the heck out of me and was wondering if any tech gurus could offer an explanation. I am all but convinced my Mobo is dead somehow, even though it can still power on under odd circumstances...
Let me preface this by saying that I have tried TONS of different methods to fix my current problem:
The problem is that my computer will not POST / boot anymore. It will also not turn off when I hold the power button anymore either, forcing me to shut it down via the PSU. If I plug in my monitor to the integrated graphics card it will cause my keyboard and Mobo to light up after about 30 minutes (with no HDD plugged in as well) usually indicating a boot, but will NOT display anything on the monitor. When I turn on my PSU, all fans spin and my installed GPU (Gtx 970) will light up and spin, but the computer will just not boot. I have gone crazy trying to solve my issue using tons of online resources but nothing has worked.
The list of fixes for this problem that I have tried includes, but is not limited to:
Resetting CMOS/ BIOS by using a new battery, using the jumper and resetting with the old battery
Checking auxiliary power plugs and fan plugs
Checking to see if any pins are bent on the Mobo
Testing with and without the installed GPU
Breadboarding
Rebuilding the computer from all parts being removed
Checking the base screws to test for shorting
Reapplying thermal paste (it's been over a year)
Trying a different PSU
Testing the PSU to see if it's faulty (it's not)
Testing each RAM stick individually (I have 4)
Testing to see if the Mobo is dead (I get three beeps when no RAM present)
Trying different monitors
Trying different HDMI / DVI cables
Trying different SATA ports
Trying to boot without any HDD plugged in
If anyone has ANYTHING to offer as advice for trying something new I will gladly respond after testing it (or if I have done it already and forgot to post it).
Please NeoGAF, I am begging you for some help here.
Uh, a little bit. Try me!
Heya GAF, I am in need of some help very badly,
I haven't been on this thread for a while, but major props to the help I received last year when I built my current gaming PC!
I have a very strange predicament right now that's confusing the heck out of me and was wondering if any tech gurus could offer an explanation. I am all but convinced my Mobo is dead somehow, even though it can still power on under odd circumstances...
Let me preface this by saying that I have tried TONS of different methods to fix my current problem:
The problem is that my computer will not POST / boot anymore. It will also not turn off when I hold the power button anymore either, forcing me to shut it down via the PSU. If I plug in my monitor to the integrated graphics card it will cause my keyboard and Mobo to light up after about 30 minutes (with no HDD plugged in as well) usually indicating a boot, but will NOT display anything on the monitor. When I turn on my PSU, all fans spin and my installed GPU (Gtx 970) will light up and spin, but the computer will just not boot. I have gone crazy trying to solve my issue using tons of online resources but nothing has worked.
The list of fixes for this problem that I have tried includes, but is not limited to:
Resetting CMOS/ BIOS by using a new battery, using the jumper and resetting with the old battery
Checking auxiliary power plugs and fan plugs
Checking to see if any pins are bent on the Mobo
Testing with and without the installed GPU
Breadboarding
Rebuilding the computer from all parts being removed
Checking the base screws to test for shorting
Reapplying thermal paste (it's been over a year)
Trying a different PSU
Testing the PSU to see if it's faulty (it's not)
Testing each RAM stick individually (I have 4)
Testing to see if the Mobo is dead (I get three beeps when no RAM present)
Trying different monitors
Trying different HDMI / DVI cables
Trying different SATA ports
Trying to boot without any HDD plugged in
If anyone has ANYTHING to offer as advice for trying something new I will gladly respond after testing it (or if I have done it already and forgot to post it).
Please NeoGAF, I am begging you for some help here.
Wow i have/had the exact same problem when I tried doing a rebuild of my system but moving it over to a m-itx case.
To this day I still havent fixed it, I just moved my components back into my old case with the old mobo and it works fine.
Same problem as you had. Everything lights up, everything spins, but no image going to my monitor.
I am suspecting it has something to do with grounding, and stand-offs on my mobo. But i need to do a retest soon.
Elitist1945
Member
Well I've seen some USB based mixers, and since I'm planning on live streaming I of course want a good microphone/mixer. My friend said I probably would have trouble since I'm using onboard sound VIA my motherboard. Is that actually an issue? Should I invest in a sound card?
Im no expert, but the onboard audio on a mobo should not be a problem.
You should however invest in a good mic. I have a Blue yeti.
Elitist1945
Member
Heya GAF, I am in need of some help very badly,
I haven't been on this thread for a while, but major props to the help I received last year when I built my current gaming PC!
I have a very strange predicament right now that's confusing the heck out of me and was wondering if any tech gurus could offer an explanation. I am all but convinced my Mobo is dead somehow, even though it can still power on under odd circumstances...
Let me preface this by saying that I have tried TONS of different methods to fix my current problem:
The problem is that my computer will not POST / boot anymore. It will also not turn off when I hold the power button anymore either, forcing me to shut it down via the PSU. If I plug in my monitor to the integrated graphics card it will cause my keyboard and Mobo to light up after about 30 minutes (with no HDD plugged in as well) usually indicating a boot, but will NOT display anything on the monitor. When I turn on my PSU, all fans spin and my installed GPU (Gtx 970) will light up and spin, but the computer will just not boot. I have gone crazy trying to solve my issue using tons of online resources but nothing has worked.
The list of fixes for this problem that I have tried includes, but is not limited to:
Resetting CMOS/ BIOS by using a new battery, using the jumper and resetting with the old battery
Checking auxiliary power plugs and fan plugs
Checking to see if any pins are bent on the Mobo
Testing with and without the installed GPU
Breadboarding
Rebuilding the computer from all parts being removed
Checking the base screws to test for shorting
Reapplying thermal paste (it's been over a year)
Trying a different PSU
Testing the PSU to see if it's faulty (it's not)
Testing each RAM stick individually (I have 4)
Testing to see if the Mobo is dead (I get three beeps when no RAM present)
Trying different monitors
Trying different HDMI / DVI cables
Trying different SATA ports
Trying to boot without any HDD plugged in
If anyone has ANYTHING to offer as advice for trying something new I will gladly respond after testing it (or if I have done it already and forgot to post it).
Please NeoGAF, I am begging you for some help here.
I have had something similar in the past, ended up being a short on the case wiring, try it all in a different case if you can.
Can you elaborate a little? If your problem is the same as us where everything is lighting up and spinning, how can it be a shorting on the wiring from the case?
Cause i just read that all the power button does it sends a small 1 time signal to the PSU/mobo to turn it on, and thats it. So if we are able to turn it on where things are lighting up and spinning, then that shouldnt be the case for us right?
I ask because I was thinking the same thing before i read that comment. I mightve damages the Power SW cable when i was rebuilding my system.
A USB interface bypasses internal sound hardware.
If you were going to connect an analog mixer, it might be a good idea. That depends on the Realtek codec your motherboard uses. Some of the newer ones are pretty good, from what I hear.
My one was at the start point of the bundle of cables, where they bunch together, the power and reset switch cable had worn away the plastic and were touching the same bit of metal, i can only assume that when switching on the PC it was activating a reset too causing it do drop into a safe state.
As i said, try a different case, or check all the individual case wires.
Alright thank you! And yes, I'll definitely find myself a good microphone.
Though if you end up getting a mixer, you will probably need an XLR microphone. The best form/type for voice is a cardioid condenser.
Elitist1945
Member
Is it possible to use a good microphone without a mixer? All the streamers I follow have a mixer so I just assumed its a necessity.
appaws
Banned
Ditto. I use a Blue Yeti as well to voice over some Youtube stuff and podcasting. Plugs right in USB and I don't have any kind of mixer or a sound card. The quality is really good to my ears....but I am by no means a hardcore audiophile.
Audio quality is so bad on some incredibly popular podcasts and Youtube channels, people using cheap headset mics and stuff. Sometimes it is hard to listen to some of them.
Definitely will not work. You cannot use ECC (Error Correcting Code) RAM in a consumer PC. The motherboard/CPU must explicitly support it.
Try plugging the fans directly into your motherboard. Sounds more like the fan controller is dying, not the fans. Fans fail mechanically 9/10 and they either die outright or if they are about the fail you'd know it by the bearings grinding away.
Use case? If gaming literally will make no difference so go for 32GB.
Thanks for your suggestion!
I tried breadboarding again to avoid the case of faulty power switch wiring. It can't be the wiring since I still have the same problem breadboarding. I am thinking maybe there is faulty wiring that shorted all of my RAM at once however...
Something I noticed is that no matter what stick of ram I use now, I don't get ANY beeps when I don't have my graphics card installed.
For anyone who is very familiar with breadboarding motherboards:
Is it an indicator that all 4 of my ram sticks went bad if none of them cause beeps for a missing GPU when breadboarding?! For reference, my Mobo is the MSI z97s SLI plus. Speaker is 100% working (beeps when RAM is missing, but not when GPU is missing and RAM is inserted).
I am so frustrated!
Did this just suddenly start happening after nothing changed?
I am assuming you cannot even get as far as getting into the Bios?
It started after the computer kept taking a very long time to boot (like 8 minutes or more), and when it DID boot it started at the prompt F1 F2 page each time. One day it just wouldn't boot at all.. I've read online it could be a faulty PSU, Ram, CPU or Mobo, but all tests are making me think it's the Mobo.. :/ I've tried so many different tests.
Do you have access to any other machines that you can at least use to check your removable items on?
Or could you not buy a cheap board as a test bed? you can pick up basic LGA1150 boards for about £35, i assume others are just as cheap.
EroticSushi
Member
I just swapped my busted ASUS motherboard out with a new MSI one. It booted up fine but when I got to my Windows User login page, my USB keyboard and mouse suddenly stops working.
It works fine in the BIOS but once it reaches the Starting Windows page it cuts off.
Any idea on a fix?
It works fine in the BIOS but once it reaches the Starting Windows page it cuts off.
Any idea on a fix?
hersheyfan
Member
Had this issue lately I wanted to ask you guys about:
Bought a new PC with an i7-6700k CPU at 4.0ghz (not overclocked). Cooler was a Cooler Master Seidon 120V water cooled. I was planning to leave it on for a couple of days to download all my Steam crap onto the hard drive, but got paranoid about overheating and ran Speccy to evaluate temps. Was shocked to find out i was getting an idle temperature in the high 40 to low 50 deg C. Ran Bioshock Infinite windowed and got freaking 89-93 deg C. Ridiculous temps for a three year old game, if I ran Witcher III I might have caused some real damage to the internals.
Replaced the cooling with a Thermaltake Frio Extreme, idle temp reduced to around 32 deg C, and around 45-48 deg C under load (Witcher III). In both cases, the ambient temperature was 32-36 deg C.
So what do you think was wrong with it? Did the guy at the shop screw up the installation, or is the Seidon really just that bad?
Bought a new PC with an i7-6700k CPU at 4.0ghz (not overclocked). Cooler was a Cooler Master Seidon 120V water cooled. I was planning to leave it on for a couple of days to download all my Steam crap onto the hard drive, but got paranoid about overheating and ran Speccy to evaluate temps. Was shocked to find out i was getting an idle temperature in the high 40 to low 50 deg C. Ran Bioshock Infinite windowed and got freaking 89-93 deg C. Ridiculous temps for a three year old game, if I ran Witcher III I might have caused some real damage to the internals.
Replaced the cooling with a Thermaltake Frio Extreme, idle temp reduced to around 32 deg C, and around 45-48 deg C under load (Witcher III). In both cases, the ambient temperature was 32-36 deg C.
So what do you think was wrong with it? Did the guy at the shop screw up the installation, or is the Seidon really just that bad?
ISee
Member
What could be the advantage of waiting?
-AMD Zen's could be better and a competition to the Intel lineup, but they are rumored to be released in Q4 2016.
-Intel CPU prices won't change dramatically this year.
-Intel Broadwell-E could be available this summer. So if you're looking to get something above the 'mainstream' Intel 4 cores waiting could be worthwhile.
But if you're looking to upgrade your CPU and you're looking to put your money down on intel instead of AMD and you're fine with Intels mainstream/skylake 4 cores CPU line up then there is no real reason to wait.
And even going from an overclocked i5 2500k/i5 3570k to the new i5 6600k can improve fps/perfromance dramatically (in games like gta v, witcher 3, JC 3 etc.) as I had to learn last week. (A bit in contrast to synthetic benchmarks/reviews).
JC3 - i5 3570k @ 4.3ghz, 980, 16gb ddr3 2400mhz
JC3 - i7 6700k @ 4.3ghz, 980, 16gb ddr4 3000 mhz
JC3 - i5 6600k @ 4.3ghz (i7 6700k w/o HTT), 980, 16gb ddr4 3000 mhz
opticalmace
Member
Something was messed up with the install (or the cooler itself). It should perform about as well as a 212 Evo-ish (http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Seidon-120V-Liquid-CPU-Cooler-Review/Test-Setup-and-Temperat), which it was not.
hersheyfan
Member
OK, thanks! I'm going to move to a new PC shop now, I think... And to be safe, I'll avoid Cooler Master for the time being. Scared the shit outta me, PC was less than a week old when this happened.
Deaf Spacker
Memb
I removed the over-clock and the blue screens stopped, now since I can't load the over-clock profile in the bios I'm over-clocking it myself to see if I can resolve it myself. As of right now I've got it up to 4.6 GHz at 1.350 V, the temps seem a little high, at one point they were in the low 90's, I'm not comfortable with that so I may dial it back.
ISee
Member
I picked the Asus Z170 A, it's a reasonable middle point for performance, overclocking capabilities and pricing (at least in my opinion). Granted there are better ones out there. And yes 500W should be enough.
00Zombie00
Neo Member
I'm using a 500w psu with a 6600k and a 970, no issues
ISee
Member
Thanks guys, I'll probably do a 6600k, 16GB DDR4, SDD and Asus-Mainboard upgrade then. I'll keep my PWS, my cooler and my old hdd. Will cost about 600 euro. Sucks.
It's hard to recommend going for the I7 because of hyperthreading but at least consider it. Performance differences aren't that huge atm and going for more cores instead of HTT is the better option anyway but I have the feeling that the I7 might be able to hold out a bit longer in the future. Still I understand going for another +130ish bugs is significant.
Anyway paying 'just' extra 25-35 bugs to go for higher clocked ddr4 ram seems to be worthwhile, just as a tip.
https://youtu.be/Er_Fuz54U0Y
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