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[Tiduz]

Q

if i buy this seperate window: http://img.hexus.net/v2/internationalevents/cebit2008/MD/cosmoss/1.jpg

would i be able to fit a 160mm heatsink?

 

[Kerrinck]

Only thing I still need for my new pc is a case, and my friend offered his, which is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119161&Tpk=elite 335
My build is i5 750, radeon 5770, p55 ud4 and 4gb ram ddr3.
Will the case work for my build?

 

[Firestorm]

yeah it'll work fine

 

[Kerrinck]

yeah it'll work fine

Thanks man.

 

[learnedhand]

Just upgrading my 3yr old rig and trying to stay on a budget. Never built a computer from scratch and worried about compatibility.

Will these components work together? Is there any major drawback?


GIGABYTE GV-N26SO-896I GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 140W Quad-Core

GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard

Just trying to get decent frame rates on the newer computer games. Any input is appreciated.

 

[D3RANG3D]

D3RANG3D put this together for me yesterday (Thanks, btw!) , and I'm liking it, but it is a bit on the pricey side for me at the moment. Anyone else have any thoughts on it?

How about this, some things had to be cut Phenom Processor, GDDR5 based Video Card. Went just a little over your $400.00 dollar budget.

HDD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320

Mobo

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128397

Video Card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161287

RAM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231253

CPU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103726

 

[adg1034]

So, I'm in the middle of completely rejiggering my peripheral setup. Switching from an original Saitek Gamer's Keyboard to a mechanical ABS G1, "downgrading" from my Logitech G5 mouse to an MX518 (bright red with a scroll wheel I can actually click!), etc.

But I'm also seriously considering changing monitors. I've been using a 37" 1920x1080 Westinghouse for about 2.5 years, and while I'm still a big fan, I figure that once I'm out of college, I'll probably be doing a fair bit of moving, making this size of monitor fairly unfeasible. I've already come to terms with the fact that I'll have to take a sizable hit when it comes to resale value (compared with the $800 I paid for this initially), but I'm having trouble finding a great replacement screen. Actually, the IPS-paneled Dell U2410 would probably be my first choice, but compared with the $350 I'll probably get for this monitor, that's a little bit out of my price range. I'm looking for around 24", and I want a fairly wide array of inputs (DVI, VGA, HDMI, and preferably component, if I can swing it).

So, a question. Outside of professional color reproduction, is there any reason at all why someone who doesn't use Photoshop, doesn't do any professional design work, and has no need for extremely high color accuracy should shell out the extra money for an IPS display? I've been using TN panels for years, and they've seemed fine, but if there's something I've been missing...

I don't know. I'm just looking for a good monitor. Dell's always had solid quality, and Samsung seems to have a nice one with a built-in HD tuner, so I might consider that one, too. What do you guys have?

 

[I should be doing hw]

Quoted for new page

Looking for help or a guide/tutorial on overclocking an i5 on a P55 or a guide to overclocking in general. I know nothing about it and no site or anything I've found has given me any, non-jargon basics to do it. Hope I can get done help in this new thread, thanks.

 

[Nemo]

Can anyone recommend a good LCD calibration tool please?

Second this

 

[adg1034]

Just upgrading my 3yr old rig and trying to stay on a budget. Never built a computer from scratch and worried about compatibility.

Will these components work together? Is there any major drawback?


GIGABYTE GV-N26SO-896I GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 140W Quad-Core

GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard

Just trying to get decent frame rates on the newer computer games. Any input is appreciated.

I'm not as up on the various AMD models as I used to be, but that looks like it should work great. Just make sure your power supply is up to snuff. One of the newer 500 or 550-watt ones shouldn't cost you too much, and it should come with all the connectors (including PCI-E 6/8-pin video) you should need.

 

[Wallach]

Quoted for new page

Take a good read through this, partner:

http://techreport.com/articles.x/13815

It has a Core2 slant but this will help you get the basics down.

 

[learnedhand]

I'm not as up on the various AMD models as I used to be, but that looks like it should work great. Just make sure your power supply is up to snuff. One of the newer 500 or 550-watt ones shouldn't cost you too much, and it should come with all the connectors (including PCI-E 6/8-pin video) you should need.

Thank you for your response.

Yeah, I was kinda worried about the power needs of this particular AMD processor, so I ordered a beast of a power supply unit. That will definitely not be a problem.

I know nothing about motherboards, though, and I just want to make sure all my legos are the same size.

 

[adg1034]

So, I'm in the middle of completely rejiggering my peripheral setup. Switching from an original Saitek Gamer's Keyboard to a mechanical ABS G1, "downgrading" from my Logitech G5 mouse to an MX518 (bright red with a scroll wheel I can actually click!), etc.

But I'm also seriously considering changing monitors. I've been using a 37" 1920x1080 Westinghouse for about 2.5 years, and while I'm still a big fan, I figure that once I'm out of college, I'll probably be doing a fair bit of moving, making this size of monitor fairly unfeasible. I've already come to terms with the fact that I'll have to take a sizable hit when it comes to resale value (compared with the $800 I paid for this initially), but I'm having trouble finding a great replacement screen. Actually, the IPS-paneled Dell U2410 would probably be my first choice, but compared with the $350 I'll probably get for this monitor, that's a little bit out of my price range. I'm looking for around 24", and I want a fairly wide array of inputs (DVI, VGA, HDMI, and preferably component, if I can swing it).

So, a question. Outside of professional color reproduction, is there any reason at all why someone who doesn't use Photoshop, doesn't do any professional design work, and has no need for extremely high color accuracy should shell out the extra money for an IPS display? I've been using TN panels for years, and they've seemed fine, but if there's something I've been missing...

I don't know. I'm just looking for a good monitor. Dell's always had solid quality, and Samsung seems to have a nice one with a built-in HD tuner, so I might consider that one, too. What do you guys have?

Hmmm. I'm thinking about this 24" Asus model. Any thoughts?

 

[Wallach]

Hmmm. I'm thinking about this 24" Asus model. Any thoughts?

I've got their 22" w/ HDMI and audio out ports. I really like it. My only complaint with 'em really is the vertical viewing angle is kinda mediocre even for a TN panel. Sharp as heck though, and I got mine on sale for like $130 or something so the complaints are pretty minor for what I paid.

 

[adg1034]

I've got their 22" w/ HDMI and audio out ports. I really like it. My only complaint with 'em really is the vertical viewing angle is kinda mediocre even for a TN panel. Sharp as heck though, and I got mine on sale for like $130 or something so the complaints are pretty minor for what I paid.

Vertical viewing angle isn't so big of a concern for me. I'm a tall man with a tall desk, and the rest of it sounds pretty good, too. But we'll see. I completely get the IPS love, but I just don't know if it's worth it.

 

[Lkr]

I hit auto configure on GTA 4 and the game is a fucking slideshow. I assume that option doesn't work well. Now i have no idea what to set my graphics to
Phenom II x3 720 ~2.8GHz
2gb DDR3-1333
GTS 250 1gig

 

[Firestorm]

I hit auto configure on GTA 4 and the game is a fucking slideshow. I assume that option doesn't work well. Now i have no idea what to set my graphics to
Phenom II x3 720 ~2.8GHz
2gb DDR3-1333
GTS 250 1gig

Start at console settings and move up.
http://www.gtaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=397064&st=0&#entry1059079912

 

[Lkr]

Start at console settings and move up.
http://www.gtaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=397064&st=0&#entry1059079912

never mind, found the post

 

[Firestorm]

never mind, found the post

It says on that topic.

View: 22%
Details: 10%
Vehicles: not listed
Shadows: 0%

stealth editter

 

[Lkr]

it plays at over 60fps but it stutters for some reason. I'll try vsync next time i play

 

[Firestorm]

Take a good read through this, partner:

http://techreport.com/articles.x/13815

It has a Core2 slant but this will help you get the basics down.

So I just:
- Change FSB
- Keep RAM and PCI-e speeds in check manually
- Stress Test

? I don't plan to do a major overclock. Just take my Q9550 from 2.83 GHz to 3.4 GHz (400x8.5 which goes 1:1 with my DDR2 800MHz RAM).

 

[Wallach]

So I just:
- Change FSB
- Keep RAM and PCI-e speeds in check manually
- Stress Test

? I don't plan to do a major overclock. Just take my Q9550 from 2.83 GHz to 3.4 GHz (400x8.5 which goes 1:1 with my DDR2 800MHz RAM).

Essentially, yes. I don't have any experience with those chips so I don't know if you'd need to worry about increasing voltage to get it stable @ 3.4GHz. Do it in steps, checking your temps and stability as you go. That article mentions Core2 chips start throttling around 72c; I don't know if that's accurate (I was using AMD in that era, sadly) but if it is take the article's advice and don't go far into the 60's under full load.

 

[liquidspeed]

My buddy and I are building a new computer and we need a powersupply. The total power delivered to each component has to do with how the circuitry of the motherboard is set up as well as the current through the circuit.. My friend says that all the components use about 500 watts of power. Would I be ok going with a 500 Watt PSU or is choosing a psu more complicated than that... Do I need to take the wiring of the motherboard into account, etc..... Sorry for the noobish question. This is the first time either of us have built a PC.

 

[x3sphere]

My buddy and I are building a new computer and we need a powersupply. The total power delivered to each component has to do with how the circuitry of the motherboard is set up as well as the current through the circuit.. My friend says that all the components use about 500 watts of power. Would I be ok going with a 500 Watt PSU or is choosing a psu more complicated than that... Do I need to take the wiring of the motherboard into account, etc..... Sorry for the noobish question. This is the first time either of us have built a PC.

PSUs degrade over time so you never want to go with the minimum required. If your friend is certain this build will pull 500W then I would go with at least a 650W. I could recommend you a PSU but need to know the parts you'll be using. As far as wiring goes pretty much all PSUs have the required connectors these days. The only situation in which you'd need a special PSU is for a dual socket board.

The amount of amps your PSU can deliver is also important, though that only really applies if you're going SLI/Crossfire or using an extremely high end card like the 5970 or GTX295.

 

[Spiderjericho]

I was wondering if I could get some troubleshooting help from you gents. My desktop has been sidelined for awhile.

I never gamed on my desktop before my problems started. I have a
Coolermaster 690 Case
Q6600
Asus 4890
Samsung 750GB HD
6 GB DDR2
Xifi Fatality

I have four fans in the case (rear, on both sides and the front).

The only game I play is SFIV. My issue is I get a BSOD after starting the game. The BSODs have different reasons, ATI, memory, bad pool, etc.

I'm thinking it might be the video card or a heat issue. I'm not sure. If I'm not gaming, I don't run into the problem. I run GNS3 on it, and it's pretty CPU intensive and nothing happens.

 

[brain_stew]

Just upgrading my 3yr old rig and trying to stay on a budget. Never built a computer from scratch and worried about compatibility.

Will these components work together? Is there any major drawback?


GIGABYTE GV-N26SO-896I GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 140W Quad-Core

GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard

Just trying to get decent frame rates on the newer computer games. Any input is appreciated.

The 965 is a waste imo, get a 955 (or 925) and OC if you want to make it the minute difference.

GTX 260s aren't usually particularly great deals these days.

 

[brain_stew]

Quoted for new page

www.overclock.net will help you out.

it plays at over 60fps but it stutters for some reason. I'll try vsync next time i play

Triple buffering usually helps with stutter.

 

[D3RANG3D]

I was wondering if I could get some troubleshooting help from you gents. My desktop has been sidelined for awhile.

I never gamed on my desktop before my problems started. I have a
Coolermaster 690 Case
Q6600
Asus 4890
Samsung 750GB HD
6 GB DDR2
Xifi Fatality

I have four fans in the case (rear, on both sides and the front).

The only game I play is SFIV. My issue is I get a BSOD after starting the game. The BSODs have different reasons, ATI, memory, bad pool, etc.

I'm thinking it might be the video card or a heat issue. I'm not sure. If I'm not gaming, I don't run into the problem. I run GNS3 on it, and it's pretty CPU intensive and nothing happens.

What's the wattage of your power supply?

What OS are you using?

What Video Card are you using?

Did you install the latest ati drivers?

Is it the Steam or Retail Version?

Try memtest http://www.memtest.org/

Some solutions I found.

1. Disable crossfirex in the ati control panel

2. Turn off AA and AF

If that doesn't work for you, then reboot your computer and load optimal default setting in your bios. going into bios is usually hitting the f2 key in when the computers boots up.

 

[brain_stew]

So I just:
- Change FSB
- Keep RAM and PCI-e speeds in check manually
- Stress Test

? I don't plan to do a major overclock. Just take my Q9550 from 2.83 GHz to 3.4 GHz (400x8.5 which goes 1:1 with my DDR2 800MHz RAM).

I'd also:

-Disable EIST, C1E
-Set some relaxed RAM timings (say 5-5-5-18)
-Set your voltage manually to its current setting, DO NOT use auto voltage.

At least initially, you can tweak them later if needs be.

 

[TheExodu5]

I'd also:

-Disable EIST, C1E
-Set some relaxed RAM timings (say 5-5-5-18)
-Set your voltage manually to its current setting, DO NOT use auto voltage.

At least initially, you can tweak them later if needs be.

No need for relaxed ram timings if he's running 1:1.

One thing pisses me off on my end...changing the voltage on my motherboard does nothing. Because of that, I can't OC my E6600 passed 3.0GHz because it's just not stable enough. I can pump up the voltage to a max of 1.5V but CPU-Z will still report around 1.3V.

I'm going to run some tests now again to give it another shot.

 

[brain_stew]

My buddy and I are building a new computer and we need a powersupply. The total power delivered to each component has to do with how the circuitry of the motherboard is set up as well as the current through the circuit.. My friend says that all the components use about 500 watts of power. Would I be ok going with a 500 Watt PSU or is choosing a psu more complicated than that... Do I need to take the wiring of the motherboard into account, etc..... Sorry for the noobish question. This is the first time either of us have built a PC.

Your friend is talking out of his ass. Unless you're running 2/3 high end GPUs and an OCed quad of course. If you're going for a single GPU rig (and the vast, vast majority of people would be better served by this) then a decent branded 500w PSU will be more than fine.

 

[TheExodu5]

Alright, I'm going to keep my journal here. Maybe someone can help me out. Here is my current report at 3.0GHz with voltage set to auto.

Off to take a picture of my BIOS settings and do some modifications.

 

[brain_stew]

No need for relaxed ram timings if he's running 1:1.

One thing pisses me off on my end...changing the voltage on my motherboard does nothing. Because of that, I can't OC my E6600 passed 3.0GHz because it's just not stable enough. I can pump up the voltage to a max of 1.5V but CPU-Z will still report around 1.3V.

I'm going to run some tests now again to give it another shot.

Meh, I always find it best to take absolutely everything out of the equation possible, RAM won't always run at its advertised spec.

 

[TheExodu5]

Okay, here were my settings. Let me know if anything is terrible wrong.

Now, here are my new settings. Looks like I was wrong...the voltage is going up, though there's a ton of voltage drop. I'm going to boost it some more so that I actually reach 1.5V.

 

[Firestorm]

5/5/5/18 is my default >.> I set those manually just in case though.
Also, I set the CPU voltages to what is listed on the left side of the BIOS manually. What about MCH/ICH? I assume I can leave DRAM alone.

This is the layout of my BIOS screen for overclocking. Not my screen, but yeah:

http://cache-foo-02.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3236.jpg
http://cache-foo-08.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3237.jpg
http://cache-foo-02.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3238.jpg

Edit: Oh and I'm supposed to set RAM to 2.00B if 333MHz and 2.00D if 400MHz. Since I'm overclocking to 8.5x400 (from 8.5x333), I'd put it to 2.00D right?

 

[Slavik81]

GTX 260s aren't usually particularly great deals these days.

What's a good upgrade path for someone who has a GTX 260? I was thinking about going SLI, but I've been a little disappointed at the recent pricing...

I'm willing to wait if there are particularly good options on the horizons within 6-8 months.

 

[TheExodu5]

brain_stew, I think I might take your advice and relax my ram timings. CPU-Z reports 4-4-4-12 timings for my RAM, even though some individual ram pieces are reported to be running at higher timings (closer to 6-6-6-18).

So far, I'm running the very limit at 1.5625V set in the bios (which gives me 1.504V according to CPU-Z). 3.2GHz has successfully booted.

What's a good upgrade path for someone who has a GTX 260? I was thinking about going SLI, but I've been a little disappointed at the recent pricing...

I'm willing to wait if there are particularly good options on the horizons within 6-8 months.

If you really need to upgrade...yeah probably SLI. Otherwise, definitely wait.

 

[brain_stew]

Stuff

You'll always get some amount of Vdroop (where the CPU-Z figure is lower than the BIOS), that's normal and not outside of the expected range.

 

[brain_stew]

5/5/5/18 is my default >.> I set those manually just in case though.
Also, I set the CPU voltages to what is listed on the left side of the BIOS manually. What about MCH/ICH? I assume I can leave DRAM alone.

This is the layout of my BIOS screen for overclocking. Not my screen, but yeah:

http://cache-foo-02.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3236.jpg
http://cache-foo-08.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3237.jpg
http://cache-foo-02.gawkerassets.com/gawker/assets/images/17/2009/09/500x_IMG_3238.jpg

Edit: Oh and I'm supposed to set RAM to 2.00B if 333MHz and 2.00D if 400MHz. Since I'm overclocking to 8.5x400 (from 8.5x333), I'd put it to 2.00D right?

Yes that sounds like the right setting, to get it running at 1:1.

 

[Nobby]

So, I'm in the middle of completely rejiggering my peripheral setup. Switching from an original Saitek Gamer's Keyboard to a mechanical ABS G1, "downgrading" from my Logitech G5 mouse to an MX518 (bright red with a scroll wheel I can actually click!), etc.

But I'm also seriously considering changing monitors. I've been using a 37" 1920x1080 Westinghouse for about 2.5 years, and while I'm still a big fan, I figure that once I'm out of college, I'll probably be doing a fair bit of moving, making this size of monitor fairly unfeasible. I've already come to terms with the fact that I'll have to take a sizable hit when it comes to resale value (compared with the $800 I paid for this initially), but I'm having trouble finding a great replacement screen. Actually, the IPS-paneled Dell U2410 would probably be my first choice, but compared with the $350 I'll probably get for this monitor, that's a little bit out of my price range. I'm looking for around 24", and I want a fairly wide array of inputs (DVI, VGA, HDMI, and preferably component, if I can swing it).

So, a question. Outside of professional color reproduction, is there any reason at all why someone who doesn't use Photoshop, doesn't do any professional design work, and has no need for extremely high color accuracy should shell out the extra money for an IPS display? I've been using TN panels for years, and they've seemed fine, but if there's something I've been missing...

I don't know. I'm just looking for a good monitor. Dell's always had solid quality, and Samsung seems to have a nice one with a built-in HD tuner, so I might consider that one, too. What do you guys have?

non-tn panels also tend to have better viewing angles along with better colors so if either of those are important to you or if you are going to run monitors in portrait it's good to have something besides tn.

Another IPS monitor you can consider is the NEC EA231WMI, 23", 1920x1080, no hdmi but it has dvi and displayport which is nice if you have a new ati card and ever want to try eyefinity. It sells for around ~$330 us. Otherwise the asus monitor you picked out is probably fine. I've heard good things about that monitor in relation to gaming. There's also a 26" version that I've seen for $290.

 

[TheExodu5]

I think it really may be a RAM issue.

I just checked and my sticks are rated quite differently:

My first pair is 4-4-4 @ 2.1V

My second pair is 5-5-6 @ 1.8V

 

[Hazaro]

brain_stew, I think I might take your advice and relax my ram timings. CPU-Z reports 4-4-4-12 timings for my RAM, even though some individual ram pieces are reported to be running at higher timings (closer to 6-6-6-18).

So far, I'm running the very limit at 1.5625V set in the bios (which gives me 1.504V according to CPU-Z). 3.2GHz has successfully booted.

I'd seriously tone down the voltage.
You shouldn't need more than around 1.4V loaded in windows for a good overclock, look towards 1.35V even.

It's not worth it imo to boost the voltage so much for overcoming a 'wall' where the CPU doesn't want to budget.

Somethings to try/do:
-Manually set your RAM voltage to what it says on the stick (1.8V-2.2V)
-Raise your NB voltage by +0.1 or +0.2V
-Try 400MHz * 8 to see if that is more stable than a 9 multiplier

Here's a list of what some people OC'd. Note the cooling solutions as well.

*

I just checked and my sticks are rated quite differently:
My first pair is 4-4-4 @ 2.1V
My second pair is 5-5-6 @ 1.8V

Off the top of my head this is not good for system stability...
Infinitely more apparent when you are overclocking. Raise the NB voltage to see if it helps.

 

[Firestorm]

Restarting. Moment of Truth. Never OCed before. Found another post on a forum with some tips on some of the settings. Everywhere he said I should set it manually, I set it manually to the number I saw on the left. Didn't put MCH Core higher though. I'll see if that becomes a problem. Mine is at 1.1, not 1.2.

Going to run OCCT for 1 hour now. And I'll run it again when at school tomorrow.

 

[TheExodu5]

Off the top of my head this is not good for system stability...
Infinitely more apparent when you are overclocking. Raise the NB voltage to see if it helps.

I'm just going to relax my RAM timings overall.

I just booted with a very conservative 5-5-5-15 @ 1.9V. My cheap RAM is still OCZ and G.Skill, so it should be able to handle it just fine. I might try to pump a little more voltage and get better timings in the future, but this will do for now.

 

[Hazaro]

I'm just going to relax my RAM timings overall.

I just booted with a very conservative 5-5-5-15 @ 1.9V. My cheap RAM is still OCZ and G.Skill, so it should be able to handle it just fine. I might try to pump a little more voltage and get better timings in the future, but this will do for now.

Models will tell you voltage range. Most sticks should handle 2.0V just fine so don't feel bad to up that.

MORE IMPORTANTLY! Drop your voltage down. Seriously.
What kind of temps are you getting?

 

[TheExodu5]

Around 50C idle, but I've got my CPU fan (Zalman 9700LED) running at low. My temp should be fine with a higher fan speed (I can keep it at around 40C idle at this OC).

Okay, so upping my fsb from 360 to 370 causes the system to not boot. Blue screen while loading windows. Any indication whether this is a RAM, CPU, or Northbridge issue? Or is a blue screen a really general error when it comes to overclocking instability?

I need to figure out how to get my northbridge voltage up.

edit: damn, my shitty P5B-E does not allow you to change the NB voltage.

 

[Hazaro]

Around 50C idle, but I've got my CPU fan (Zalman 9700LED) running at low. My temp should be fine with a higher fan speed (I can keep it at around 40C idle at this OC).

Okay, so upping my fsb from 360 to 370 causes the system to not boot. Blue screen while loading windows. Any indication whether this is a RAM, CPU, or Northbridge issue? Or is a blue screen a really general error when it comes to overclocking instability?

I need to figure out how to get my northbridge voltage up.

edit: damn, my shitty P5B-E does not allow you to change the NB voltage.

That is pretty hot :/

Up your FSB Term voltage and see if that helps. It is entirely possible you chip hits a wall at 3.2Ghz though.

My E7200 hits a wall at 4.0Ghz. It needs 1.45V (This is 45nm) for that.
At 3.8Ghz I only need 1.30V

Not worth the wear on the chip for that tiny increase. Same goes for 3.0 vs 3.2Ghz

Thy this:
-Manually set your RAM voltage to what it says on the stick (1.8V-2.2V)
-Raise your FSB Term voltage by +0.1 or +0.2V
-Try 375/400MHz * 8 to see if that is more stable than a 9 multiplier

 

[TheExodu5]

400x8 does load, so I'm guessing it's not a Northbridge issue. Would that mean I'm purely CPU limited here?

Also, what are the best apps for temp monitoring and load testing?

edit: I just got a bex error with Firefox. Branch exception. I dunno...I guess my CPU just doesn't like being above 3.0GHz. It's really weird, since it runs fine at 1.3V at 3.0GHz, but can't even do 1.5V at 3.2GHz properly.

 

[clav]

Looking for a new card that doesn't utilize more power than what I have.

I currently have a ATi X1650 Pro (500 MHz clocked). Is the ATi HD4670 the best I can have or should I just wait for a deal on a Nvidia 9600GT?

 

[Firestorm]

Alright. Just finished running the 1 hour OCCT test. Core 1 hits a max of 50, Core 2 hits a max of 43, Core 3 hits a max of 44, and Core 4 hits a maximum of 48. Seems good as I think the Core 2 Quad line is supposed to hit 65 max? I'll run it for a longer period of time just to make sure tomorrow. Hopefully 3.4GHz is enough to do well in PCSX2 and Dolphin.

I should probably boot into OSX as well to make sure I didn't screw anything up on that side. It's really finicky >.>