Nice, thanks a lot.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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Nice, thanks a lot.
I'd rather not have to turn down graphics settings though. 1080p/60+fps at ultra/high seems better than 1440p/sub 60fps/medium, but I've never had a chance to test it side by side.
PeskyToaster
Member
I've had a laptop that was nice for college but I think I'm ready to upgrade that now I have some money and don't need the mobility of a laptop anymore. It's been almost 5 years since I got that laptop that was really nice but had an underpowered GPU. I haven't decided if I want to build my own or just customize one from a vendor. Could probably save a chunk of change and it would be a fun project.
What's the best way to start building a PC? I found some build guides on PC Gamer and of course we have some here. Should I just start ordering parts based on those?
What's the best way to start building a PC? I found some build guides on PC Gamer and of course we have some here. Should I just start ordering parts based on those?
opticalmace
Member
Depends on what you play. I have a 970 and the XB270HU and I play (e.g.) project cars at 1440p and around 90 fps with most things turned up.
First thing is to fill in the survey in the OP.
PeskyToaster
Member
Oh I see it now. Thanks! Thought it was the part picker.
I used this one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Paste-Arcticlean/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1459351963&sr=8-6&keywords=thermal+paste
Makes it a lot easier to remove the old paste
opticalmace
Member
What CPU, and what frequency do you have it at now? Cooler?
SmartWaffles
Member
You don't even tell us what CPU, cooler and what mobo you have bro. Also I don't recommend overclocking with software, BIOS is not hard and is safer. For tests a couple hours of AIDA64 stability test or Prime95 should do.
You'll definitely be safe with an 850w for SLI 980tis, not sure about OCing them though..
Maybe go with a 1000w to be safe for future gpus
I've got a couple strange problems with my desktop that I'm scrambling to fix before the Vive arrives next week. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Specs
Problem 1: Overclocking GPU
I'm getting the following error when Elite: Dangerous Horizons' Training mission loads:
The new Hitman ran no problem and did not lock or cause a fatal error.
The Division's main menu screen was not rendering properly though there was also no lock or fatal error.
Here are the settings I used in MSI Afterburner:
I loaded up Unigine's Valley benchmark and saw no artifacting, glitches, or crashes. But as soon as the tutorial loaded in Elite: Dangerous I get either a hard lock OR the fatal error I posted above.
If the GPU did overheat I don't understand how when I kept the temp limit at 85 in Afterburner.
When I get the fatal error (as opposed to the hard lock) I'm able to close the game and look at Afterburner which shows different settings than I chose: Core Clock and Memory Clock both totally maxed out (Core clock at +47548). Perhaps that is just because the driver crashed so the settings are messed up or maybe it's due to something else, I'm not sure.
Problem 2: USB connection/failure issues
I've been having weird glitches with my USB ports. My Steam Controller sometimes stops functioning, I get a runtime error every time I connect my wireless Xbox One Controller, my USB wi-fi adapter frequently disables itself and I have to re-enable it (or pull it out and put it back in) to get it to connect again, and sometimes my mouse freezes and clicking the mouse buttons makes the internal PC speaker make weird old school beeping sounds.
I should also mention that my last desktop had similar problems with its USB devices. However, that computer'ss mobo fried from static electric charges. Whenever I touched the tower or touched any device connected to the same or a different outlet in the same room, or even touched the windowsill near my computer desk the computer would reboot. My new desktop doesn't seem to react to static electricity but is still having similar USB related problems.
Here are pictures of what I've got hooked up to the front and back of the tower:
A user mentioned that the devices may not be getting enough power and asked if I'm using a non-powered USB hub. I'm not exactly sure how to check that but hopefully the pictures illustrate whether that is the case.
Specs
Problem 1: Overclocking GPU
I'm getting the following error when Elite: Dangerous Horizons' Training mission loads:
The new Hitman ran no problem and did not lock or cause a fatal error.
The Division's main menu screen was not rendering properly though there was also no lock or fatal error.
Here are the settings I used in MSI Afterburner:
Code:
Power Limit %: 110
Temp. Limit (C): 85
Core Clock: +130
Mem Clock: +0I loaded up Unigine's Valley benchmark and saw no artifacting, glitches, or crashes. But as soon as the tutorial loaded in Elite: Dangerous I get either a hard lock OR the fatal error I posted above.
If the GPU did overheat I don't understand how when I kept the temp limit at 85 in Afterburner.
When I get the fatal error (as opposed to the hard lock) I'm able to close the game and look at Afterburner which shows different settings than I chose: Core Clock and Memory Clock both totally maxed out (Core clock at +47548). Perhaps that is just because the driver crashed so the settings are messed up or maybe it's due to something else, I'm not sure.
Problem 2: USB connection/failure issues
I've been having weird glitches with my USB ports. My Steam Controller sometimes stops functioning, I get a runtime error every time I connect my wireless Xbox One Controller, my USB wi-fi adapter frequently disables itself and I have to re-enable it (or pull it out and put it back in) to get it to connect again, and sometimes my mouse freezes and clicking the mouse buttons makes the internal PC speaker make weird old school beeping sounds.
I should also mention that my last desktop had similar problems with its USB devices. However, that computer'ss mobo fried from static electric charges. Whenever I touched the tower or touched any device connected to the same or a different outlet in the same room, or even touched the windowsill near my computer desk the computer would reboot. My new desktop doesn't seem to react to static electricity but is still having similar USB related problems.
Here are pictures of what I've got hooked up to the front and back of the tower:
A user mentioned that the devices may not be getting enough power and asked if I'm using a non-powered USB hub. I'm not exactly sure how to check that but hopefully the pictures illustrate whether that is the case.
masterkajo
Member
Short questions: What happens if my power supply is below the requirements?
I have the following setup:
Asus P8H67
i5-2500K @ 3.3GHz
RAM 2GB DDR3 @ 1033MHz
SSD 128GB
SSD 512GB
HDD 256GB
AMD Radeon HD7850 2GB
HDD Extern 2TB
with a 430W power supply. Everything works great.
Now, a friend of mine is giving away his old GTX680 2GB which I could use for free. But will this even work with my low power supply?
I have the following setup:
Asus P8H67
i5-2500K @ 3.3GHz
RAM 2GB DDR3 @ 1033MHz
SSD 128GB
SSD 512GB
HDD 256GB
AMD Radeon HD7850 2GB
HDD Extern 2TB
with a 430W power supply. Everything works great.
Now, a friend of mine is giving away his old GTX680 2GB which I could use for free. But will this even work with my low power supply?
You should play it safe and buy a 1000w PSU.
Ya seems like that's the best plan of action. Gonna get the EvGA 1050watt Gold
CrashPrime
Member
Great question and I want to know the answer too.
I have never allowed this to happen but I am cutting it dangerously close Friday so I will let you know if it happens to me. I am crossing my fingers it isn't a fire.
My mobo supports laptop DC adapters and I am going to attempt 5350 and 750 ti on a measly 120w 19v brick which probably won't work. Stay tuned!
I believe the computer will just shut down in most cases
So just as an update, I purchased an i5 6600K and a Gigabyte Z170-HD3P the other day. I picked up everything at Micro Center for $319.98 and I have a $20 rebate on the way so getting it all for $300 is nice. I still have to buy RAM, Windows 10 OEM, a PSU and an SSD though. I'm not in any hurry at the moment since scholl is pulling me down, but I am one month away from graduating so I can wait a little longer to get things going. Right now I'm sitting on the sidelines from buying a video card until we get more information on Pascal/Polaris. It looks like that is barely a month away so it shouldn't be too long before I make that decision.
masterkajo
Member
Thanks, I will try it. Will do eventually. I am waiting on Pascal for a full PC upgrade to be VR ready. But in the meantime I was just thinking about upgrading to a GTX680 for free to get me some Dark Souls 3 in 1080p 60 FPS (hopefully).
Hey, just wanted to update the thread. I bought and built this PC. I had some trouble fitting the cooler, and the build took longer than it should to put together, but I put that down to being unfamiliar with a lot of the advancements made in design since I last built a PC. Got it up and running pretty much first time, and I'm very happy with it: so fast and quiet, it's amazing. Thanks for all your help!
seattle6418
Member
I need some help. I´m from Brazil and i´ll be in the USA in may. I will have the chance to buy some parts to build a good gaming PC.
Budget is $1000
Yes, i checked the OP, but looking at some deals i have the following parts chosen:
i5 6600k for $220
R9 390 8gb for $340
Crucial 250gb SSD for $90
Asus Z170-pro LGA 1151 for $175
Corsair 16gb 2 x 8 DDR4-3200 for $85
So, question is, can i get a better build with this budget? Is 6600k necessary?
Is DDR4 the way to go?
Can i save on the motherboard or something?
I will buy cheaper/bigger parts like power supply and case here in Brazil, so i´ll be needing just those five itens.
PC part picker says it´s a match, but i wanted to hear GAF´s opinion on this one. I wanted to save on a AMD CPU, but everyone tells me i have to go Intel.
Also, R9 390 the best bang for the buck in this case?
I will use mostly for racing games, with the best framerate possible.
Budget is $1000
Yes, i checked the OP, but looking at some deals i have the following parts chosen:
i5 6600k for $220
R9 390 8gb for $340
Crucial 250gb SSD for $90
Asus Z170-pro LGA 1151 for $175
Corsair 16gb 2 x 8 DDR4-3200 for $85
So, question is, can i get a better build with this budget? Is 6600k necessary?
Is DDR4 the way to go?
Can i save on the motherboard or something?
I will buy cheaper/bigger parts like power supply and case here in Brazil, so i´ll be needing just those five itens.
PC part picker says it´s a match, but i wanted to hear GAF´s opinion on this one. I wanted to save on a AMD CPU, but everyone tells me i have to go Intel.
Also, R9 390 the best bang for the buck in this case?
I will use mostly for racing games, with the best framerate possible.
Looking to upgrade my RAM from 8GB to 16GB
This look like a good choice of RAM?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DUB0US/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I hear that some games benefit from higher speed RAM such as Fallout 4
My current rig
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MTsM99
edit: So I added it to PCPart Picker and got this
The PNY Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory operating voltage of 1.6V exceeds the Intel Sandy Bridge CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum.
How could this affect me? Can I just overclock it or something?
This look like a good choice of RAM?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DUB0US/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I hear that some games benefit from higher speed RAM such as Fallout 4
My current rig
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MTsM99
edit: So I added it to PCPart Picker and got this
The PNY Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory operating voltage of 1.6V exceeds the Intel Sandy Bridge CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum.
How could this affect me? Can I just overclock it or something?
I'm about to order a 980 Ti. I sold my GTX 980 today. I'm probably going to get the EVGA 980 Ti Classified, unless anyone has a better suggestion. After a $20 rebate card, it's $619.
If I buy from Newegg, I have 30 days to return it, so I can wait and see if any better deals come up or if for some reason I decide to wait and get a pascal.
If I buy from Newegg, I have 30 days to return it, so I can wait and see if any better deals come up or if for some reason I decide to wait and get a pascal.
JHandlebars
Neo Member
*Re-posting from the i5 2500k thread*
PC GAF I need your help!
I'm posting in this thread because I can't create threads yet. I recently came across some Amazon credit and want to spend it on upgrading my PC. I'm new to the PC scene and recently purchased my roommate's old computer.
My specs now are:
AMD Radeon 7850
i5 2500k 3.3 ghz
8 gb of ram
I have a msi gtx 970 4g on the way and still have about $200 to spend.
I want to know what else I should get. I know I want to get some new fans or cooling since the ones on the rig now are really loud. Does anybody have any suggestions? Should I get more ram? I saw some specs for recent games were recommending cpu's better than mine. Can I still play them with the 2500k? Sorry for my lack of knowledge; I'm trying to learn!
Thanks in advance!
-JH
PC GAF I need your help!
I'm posting in this thread because I can't create threads yet. I recently came across some Amazon credit and want to spend it on upgrading my PC. I'm new to the PC scene and recently purchased my roommate's old computer.
My specs now are:
AMD Radeon 7850
i5 2500k 3.3 ghz
8 gb of ram
I have a msi gtx 970 4g on the way and still have about $200 to spend.
I want to know what else I should get. I know I want to get some new fans or cooling since the ones on the rig now are really loud. Does anybody have any suggestions? Should I get more ram? I saw some specs for recent games were recommending cpu's better than mine. Can I still play them with the 2500k? Sorry for my lack of knowledge; I'm trying to learn!
Thanks in advance!
-JH
I have a 34" ultrawide monitor and a 970 and run damn near everything pretty well at 1440p. Your vanilla 980 should be plenty fine for now.
What games are you so concerned over on that setup exactly? I could give you insight as to how they handle on my rig before you blindly make a half-step upgrade in the face of Nvidia's announcement next week.
I sold the 980 today, so now I can buy whatever I want. It's not specifically for a game now. I just want to have a solid machine for years and potentially run a 34" ultrawide with 1-2 additional monitors. I figure that the Ti is the best value right now.
So crippled by choice looking at gaming mice right now I don't know what to do. Someone please help.
I'm just coming off a Death Adder that was mostly good up until the scroll wheel stopped responding. I temp fixed it with a piece of tape, but the plastic nub that was holding it in the mechanism is snapped off now, so it's either buy an OEM scroll wheel off ebay or get a new mouse. I'm currently having issues with my Razer keyboard (it has at least 2-3 bad switches in it I don't know how to replace), so I just don't trust the company anymore.
I'm using a $12 chinese knock off right now that's TERRIBLE (left click double clicks and the damn thing doesn't even sit flat on my desk due to how cheaply designed it is).
It's been about 15 years since I last tried one, but I've had NUMEROUS Logitech mice fail on me in the past. Button switches dying, etc.
I just don't know what to do anymore. It seems like these things, regardless of the manufacturer, are just built to fail (conveniently a month or two after your warranty is up) to keep us dumbasses continually buying new ones. I've long since given up expecting to own a mouse for years and years and have it not fail me.
So I want to spend $30-50 and hopefully that'll last me another warranty cycle. What do I buy guys?
Sorry for the rant.
I'm just coming off a Death Adder that was mostly good up until the scroll wheel stopped responding. I temp fixed it with a piece of tape, but the plastic nub that was holding it in the mechanism is snapped off now, so it's either buy an OEM scroll wheel off ebay or get a new mouse. I'm currently having issues with my Razer keyboard (it has at least 2-3 bad switches in it I don't know how to replace), so I just don't trust the company anymore.
I'm using a $12 chinese knock off right now that's TERRIBLE (left click double clicks and the damn thing doesn't even sit flat on my desk due to how cheaply designed it is).
It's been about 15 years since I last tried one, but I've had NUMEROUS Logitech mice fail on me in the past. Button switches dying, etc.
I just don't know what to do anymore. It seems like these things, regardless of the manufacturer, are just built to fail (conveniently a month or two after your warranty is up) to keep us dumbasses continually buying new ones. I've long since given up expecting to own a mouse for years and years and have it not fail me.
So I want to spend $30-50 and hopefully that'll last me another warranty cycle. What do I buy guys?
Sorry for the rant.
PeskyToaster
Member
Here's my survey filled out.
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
CPU Intel Core i7-2630QM CPU2.00 GHz
RAM 8GBs of I don't know what.
Motherboard: Don't know
GPU Geforce GTX 560M
HDD: 500 GB
Current system a Mobius TL laptop from Doghouse systems purchased about 5 years ago. The specs are their site are what you can buy currently so are not representative of what I have. I have no need for a gaming laptop anymore. I'm going full desktop.
Budget: ~$2000 but I wouldn't mind lower but if I have to go higher then so be it. I may be overestimating how much I need to sink into this though. USA
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback). I'm solely interested in Gaming and General Usage.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor? I need to buy a new monitor. I've been looking at 1440p 144 Hz.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? I would like to run Total War: Warhammer at the best settings. Here's a link to their specs for max settings. I am interested in all the perks of PC gaming.
Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900) No parts to reuse. I would still like to use my laptop on the side so I don't plan on scrapping it.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? I would start to put it together asap but I'm in no rush.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!) - Probably if I can figure it out.
I hope I am not breaking any rules. I am trying to unload these in the buy/sell/trade thread and I thought I would post here to see if there is interest.
For Sale: US only
16GB DDR3 Ram http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WAGGUK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I have four sticks in total. Each are 4 GB's. I would prefer to sell as much together as possible. I bought them back in November and now I'm looking to get a new mob that takes DDR4 Ram.
Prices are shipped: (I prefer to ship in packs of two at least so that is why I asking more for just one stick)
1 stick- $20
2 sticks- $30
4 sticks- $55
ndawgdrake
Member
I would overclock that CPU to 4.2ghz. Then pick up a after market CPU cooler to keep it cool and a 500gb ssd.
This, 2500k's are cake to overclock with a half decent cooler (hyper 212 evo should work) and I ran mine for a long time at 4.5ghz and it was the easiest overclock I ever did. (As long as your motherboard doesn't suck)
If you don't already have an SSD grab the 850 Evo 500gb or something, they go on sale for $130ish quite a bit.
I'm looking to buy a CPU cooler today for my i5 2500k. My mobo is a p8z68-vlx. Someone has already recommended the cryorig h5 universal as it's easy to install aswell. After looking up on it I'm worried it may be to wide and take over my first expansion slot which has a wifi card in. Anyone know if this cooler is ok or is there another one that is a bit smaller, really want to try and OC the 2500k to 4.4 or a bit higher.
You meant cooler right? Would all-in-one liquid CPU cooler work?
Yes just edited meant cooler and you have any in mind. Just when I looked at water coolers they don't seem much better than air and the ones that are a lot bettrr are expensive.
SmartWaffles
Member
I'm using the H5 Universal and it is a beast, kept my 4.6GHz 4790K at sub 60 degree at load, very easy to install as well, just take the mobo out of the case.
Mr. Giggles
Member
Damn you guys have nice rigs.
Subbed
Subbed
So once I get the balls to do it what software do I need to use to test with? I heard that 24 hour testing is old school and I only need like four hours or so.
Yea I think I will go with this one though may have to lose my wifi card if it's to wide which isn't really a problem as my Ethernet lead is right next to it in my ps4. Would I have to still take out the mobo if I can get access to the back of it, my case has a cut out for backplates.
OFFIS
Member
From op:
OCCT allows you to stress test your CPU and GPU, along with GPU memory.
Prime95 allows you to stress test your CPU and RAM for stability.
FURMark allows you to stress test your video card.
Memtest86+ allows you to run a full memory scan to deal with the blue screen of death and system errors.I usually just run prime95 for few hours and one run of newest 3dmark and then play games to see if anything is unstable.
From op:
I usually just run prime95 for few hours and one run of newest 3dmark and then play games to see if anything is unstable.
What about for temps?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
RealTemp or HWinfo64.
I would definitely give Logitech a try today, if you haven't in the last 15 years. I currently use a G502, and I really have no complaints other than it being on the heavier side and the scroll wheel is kinda weird.
If you want to stay away from Razer/Logitech, try a Steelseries Rival which should be similar to the DA. There's also Zowie, and I think something like the FK1 would be close to the DA.
I got a Logitech MX performance after hearing years of people loving it. So far not impressed..
Very choppy performance on Mac and Chromebook on a wooden desk. Windows 10 and glass seems fine though. But isn't the whole point that the mouse has "darkfield" tech for any surface?
Also the horizontal tracking is pretty bad -- doesn't track straight at all.
I guess my search continues..
Very choppy performance on Mac and Chromebook on a wooden desk. Windows 10 and glass seems fine though. But isn't the whole point that the mouse has "darkfield" tech for any surface?
Also the horizontal tracking is pretty bad -- doesn't track straight at all.
I guess my search continues..
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