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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

I use the Yongnuo 560 IV and the 560 TN, which handles my wireless flash haha.
Also A7 doesn't have pop up flash, which idgaf cuz I never use it anyway.
The Yongnuo flashes are freaking amazing because any 560III or up, I can completely control all of their settings wirelessly, separately, from the camera (Well, in 6 groups anyway). So nice and convenient. Also cheap as hell! No TTL tho.

Typically I'll have the flash on a stand and I've got a lightbulb that I use for fill light. Thinking of getting another 560, probably just the III, but first want to get lighting umbrellas.
Umbrellas are cheap, it's just a pain trying to figure out how to position everything. I want a Nikon flash though or at least something good with TTL and HSS. I can some what handle manual flash, but it's too much extra during an event in my opinion, which is why I get TTL flashes.
 
Umbrellas are cheap, it's just a pain trying to figure out how to position everything. I want a Nikon flash though or at least something good with TTL and HSS. I can some what handle manual flash, but it's too much extra during an event in my opinion, which is why I get TTL flashes.

Yeah, a TTL flash is a definite plus, but for studio where you're doing it all manual anyway, you can buy like a whole set of flashes for the price of one TTL.
 
Yeah, a TTL flash is a definite plus, but for studio where you're doing it all manual anyway, you can buy like a whole set of flashes for the price of one TTL.
Yeah I just set my flash to manual any way since it's not on top of my camera. It's only in TTL mode during an event if I need it on top of my camera so pretty much I see no purpose in buying multiple types of flashes cause at some point I'll need something TTL. I mean I could just buy a couple of fashion only flashes, but god forbid I grab the wrong damn thing for an event. I might at some point want TTL triggers as well, just depends on what for. If I ever get one of those zip up reflector umbrellas then yeah that might call for TTL everything or at least stuff that lets me change flash settings wirelessly.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
If you're doing events where the lighting changes a lot, TTL is useful.

If you're doing portraits where the lighting doesn't change, go manual.
 
If you're doing events where the lighting changes a lot, TTL is useful.

If you're doing portraits where the lighting doesn't change, go manual.
That's exactly what I do. Manual for off camera cause I do not do portraits with the flash on my camera anymore. I either run them like that or with no flash at all. Events get TTL flash though, I do not have the kind of time for changing my flash settings all the time. Though I do run one camera with flash with the 24-70 on there and one with no flash and a 70-200, cause at that range I think the flash is useless. If I can get by on natural light I use natural light, unless it's a group shot and I need to shoot at a narrower aperture.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
That's exactly what I do. Manual for off camera cause I do not do portraits with the flash on my camera anymore. I either run them like that or with no flash at all. Events get TTL flash though, I do not have the kind of time for changing my flash settings all the time. Though I do run one camera with flash with the 24-70 on there and one with no flash and a 70-200, cause at that range I think the flash is useless. If I can get by on natural light I use natural light, unless it's a group shot and I need to shoot at a narrower aperture.

Flash on a 70-200 can be less effective due to the range, yeah. At 200mm, though, you could just point your flash to the ceiling at 1/2 power manual, and use it as a general fill, depending on the size of the room you're in.
 
Flash on a 70-200 can be less effective due to the range, yeah. At 200mm, though, you could just point your flash to the ceiling at 1/2 power manual, and use it as a general fill, depending on the size of the room you're in.
I have only had to do that once and that was before I went full frame, now I really don't even bother too much. The ceilings in my locations tend to be pretty high any way so I doubt the light would even bounce back. Doesn't help that I tend to shoot a lot. I don't want to drown the place in flash nor do I want to be that disturbing.
 
I shoot 4x5 :). I've been using a V500 for the past 5 years. It wasn't until I saw one of my negatives scanned on a V700 that I decided I needed to upgrade haha.

I use a V500 also. It can leave one wanting at times. Even with 120 film. I'll have to add a scanner upgrade to the list...
 

cormack12

Gold Member
Hey gaf, after a bit of advice really and recommendations on kit. Might have asked in the past actually can't remember, but finished a loan this month so ready to bite and treat myself at the end of this :)


1. What is your budget?
Looking to dip in at about £750 - maybe camera body +lens bundle or camera body with unofficial lens suggestions? I realise it's not going to be professional grade equipment at that price. I have a couple of tripods.


2. Main purpose of the camera?
Basically low light amateur photography. I'm not expecting to be zooming in on star clusters but as an example going to a beach near us with a lighthouse I'd like to be able to get the night sky in, the lighthouse, waves and beach detail. Like to be able to go high above a coastal town and be able to get the clear night stars in and the lights of the houses and outlets below. I don't wanna rip examples off google here because I've no idea of sources etc or equipment/PP - hopefully it gives an idea.

I like monochrome/B&W photography, and a camera that can shoot in RAW but still display the captured frame on the display would be good (might be standard now, but wasn't years back iirc).


3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
Compact DSLR


4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
Yeah, I guess. I mostly like landscapes, mountains, crispness/sharpness of shot. I like shots with depth of field effects/techniques to make the detail pop.


5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?

Pretty easy with makes. Canon and Nikon both used. Both liked. Think I slightly preferred the canon body.


Thanks!
 
Hey gaf, after a bit of advice really and recommendations on kit. Might have asked in the past actually can't remember, but finished a loan this month so ready to bite and treat myself at the end of this :)


1. What is your budget?
Looking to dip in at about £750 - maybe camera body +lens bundle or camera body with unofficial lens suggestions? I realise it's not going to be professional grade equipment at that price. I have a couple of tripods.


2. Main purpose of the camera?
Basically low light amateur photography. I'm not expecting to be zooming in on star clusters but as an example going to a beach near us with a lighthouse I'd like to be able to get the night sky in, the lighthouse, waves and beach detail. Like to be able to go high above a coastal town and be able to get the clear night stars in and the lights of the houses and outlets below. I don't wanna rip examples off google here because I've no idea of sources etc or equipment/PP - hopefully it gives an idea.

This is done through stacking multiple photos -- particularly the "night sky" bit. A kit lens won't really do well for this; you're going to want an f1.8 or faster lens. Wanting to capture wave detail means you can't do long exposure on the waves. Wanting stars means you'll need to do a long exposure for that part, but you can't go too long without getting star trails or getting an expensive star tracking mount.

So, what you'd do for this photo, is you'd set up a tripod, and take one exposure done with the intent of getting in the waves and beach -- you'll need wide open aperture, f1.8, probably high ISO too. Then you'll take a second exposure to get the stars -- it'll be around 30 seconds, 1600~ ish ISO, and you'll take like ten of those shots. You'll merge the star photos together to get a lower noise photo of the stars, then merge that result with your beach exposed photo.

So why did I say all that? Because you want a fast lens and a sturdy as shit tripod. Those are the primary determining factors in this photo idea.

I like monochrome/B&W photography, and a camera that can shoot in RAW but still display the captured frame on the display would be good (might be standard now, but wasn't years back iirc).

This is standard.

3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
Compact DSLR


4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
Yeah, I guess. I mostly like landscapes, mountains, crispness/sharpness of shot. I like shots with depth of field effects/techniques to make the detail pop.


5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?

Pretty easy with makes. Canon and Nikon both used. Both liked. Think I slightly preferred the canon body.


Thanks!

The rest of this is pretty vague, so I'll let the others throw in their 2c.

Also focusing at night would be easier on an MILC and you'd get the same photo but EH I'll back off on that ahaha.

EDIT -- Seems like Sony put out a "cheap" FE 85mm 1.8 recently. Looking at it, seems to be quite good!
Compared to the Canon/Nikon equivalents, it's ~$100 more expensive ($600 vs $500 ish), but is sharp completely wide open, which the other two can't claim. Comparing it to the FE "nifty fifty", this makes a lot more sense, as the price differential is smaller in proportion, and doesn't have the noisy focus issues of the 50 1.8.
Seems Sony is getting around to getting the mid range FE lenses out, which is nice. They seem to be going for "Slightly more expensive, but much sharper wide open", which is of particular interest to me.
 
If astrophotography ia your thing, I think Pentax has a feature called astrotracker which moves the sensor according to the movement of the stars via gps. They also have IBIS and are weatherproof.
 
EDIT -- Seems like Sony put out a "cheap" FE 85mm 1.8 recently. Looking at it, seems to be quite good!
Compared to the Canon/Nikon equivalents, it's ~$100 more expensive ($600 vs $500 ish), but is sharp completely wide open, which the other two can't claim. Comparing it to the FE "nifty fifty", this makes a lot more sense, as the price differential is smaller in proportion, and doesn't have the noisy focus issues of the 50 1.8.
Seems Sony is getting around to getting the mid range FE lenses out, which is nice. They seem to be going for "Slightly more expensive, but much sharper wide open", which is of particular interest to me.
Yeah the 85 has been getting rave reviews for the price. Tempted as I have nothing in the longer focal length range.
Got to sort a camera first tho. 6300 or A7ii. Decisions.
 

Ty4on

Member
Lensrentals made their usual MTF test of the new Tamron 70-200 and it's really good. Pretty much the same level as Nikon and Canon. Astigmatism is a bit high which can affect bokeh, but not far off Nikon and Canon. Corner sharpness is really good while center performance is decent.
If astrophotography ia your thing, I think Pentax has a feature called astrotracker which moves the sensor according to the movement of the stars via gps. They also have IBIS and are weatherproof.
You can also get this on some older Pentaxes with the GPS module.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Found a good deal on a Fuji X-T2 and boost grip. I was totally fine waiting for the inevitable X-T3, as my original 1 is still very much suitable for my photography. Of course though, now that I'm waiting for the seller to get back to me, I'm more nervous than I thought I was going to be that the deal might not work out.

I played with my buddy's new X-T20 that I talked him into getting - way too small for me and missing a few standout features; but the resolution bump and touch screen really had me swooning.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Found a good deal on a Fuji X-T2 and boost grip. I was totally fine waiting for the inevitable X-T3, as my original 1 is still very much suitable for my photography. Of course though, now that I'm waiting for the seller to get back to me, I'm more nervous than I thought I was going to be that the deal might not work out.

I played with my buddy's new X-T20 that I talked him into getting - way too small for me and missing a few standout features; but the resolution bump and touch screen really had me swooning.

Aaannd it worked out!

Will be upgrading my XT-1 to a mint XT-2, with both hand grip and booster grip, with two extra official batteries.

Just ordered a Peak Design shell since I ripped my last one to protect it during travels. Really pumped to start shooting some 4K and having some actual space to do crops on my photos with.
 

v4gr4nt

Member
Any idea when Nikon might update the D610 and D750? I want to upgrade my gear from the D5100, but if Nikon rease an updated version of those I might wait a little.
Does nikon have an update cycle/pattern?
 
Any idea when Nikon might update the D610 and D750? I want to upgrade my gear from the D5100, but if Nikon rease an updated version of those I might wait a little.
Does nikon have an update cycle/pattern?
Should be at some point this year but you never know. I didn't even bother waiting and just bought a refurb D810, which is better than both cameras. Whatever the replacements are will not be affordable at launch any way or will be more expensive than a refurb 810. Though there's a good chance that those two camera lines will get the D5 sensor since the rumored 7500 is getting the D500 sensor.
 

Ty4on

Member
Should be at some point this year but you never know. I didn't even bother waiting and just bought a refurb D810, which is better than both cameras. Whatever the replacements are will not be affordable at launch any way or will be more expensive than a refurb 810. Though there's a good chance that those two camera lines will get the D5 sensor since the rumored 7500 is getting the D500 sensor.
I have a feeling they're going to push the D5 sensor in an expensive body like they did with the D4 sensor in the DF. Either a new body or by pushing the D750 upmarket. Putting it in a 1500-2000$ D760 kinda makes it look like a cheap sensor :p

Dunno about the D610 replacement. Neither Canon nor Nikon have been in a rush to update their entry-level FF. Possibly due to poor profits and mediocre sales, but I'd love to see this sector thrive. Nikon's lens lineup makes so much more sense for FF, but the D610 is not really cheap and you sacrifice a lot of features like AF coverage.
 
Any idea when Nikon might update the D610 and D750? I want to upgrade my gear from the D5100, but if Nikon rease an updated version of those I might wait a little.
Does nikon have an update cycle/pattern?

I think a new D6XX or D7XX and or possibly a new D8XX is expected this year, but if you're ready to upgrade now just get a used FX camera for cheap on ebay and get the new model when it comes out and sell the used one. The current FX cameras all all awesome and would be a huge upgrade anyway.
 
I have a feeling they're going to push the D5 sensor in an expensive body like they did with the D4 sensor in the DF. Either a new body or by pushing the D750 upmarket. Putting it in a 1500-2000$ D760 kinda makes it look like a cheap sensor :p

Dunno about the D610 replacement. Neither Canon nor Nikon have been in a rush to update their entry-level FF. Possibly due to poor profits and mediocre sales, but I'd love to see this sector thrive. Nikon's lens lineup makes so much more sense for FF, but the D610 is not really cheap and you sacrifice a lot of features like AF coverage.
Yeah the AF ain't super great on my 600 but it's good enough to be my backup body at this point for events, wasn't too bad for event work either. I'm not really having the urge to get a D750. With the way the DX line up is on Nikon I pretty much had to go full frame. The focal lengths get too weird when you strap a FX lens on a DX body.
 
D7500 sounds awesome. Basically a more compact D500. 8fps 14 bit raw for 50 shots (before buffer slowdown), same AF and metering as the D500, tilting LCD like the D500 and D750, $750 less.
 

cormack12

Gold Member
This is done through stacking multiple photos -- particularly the "night sky" bit. A kit lens won't really do well for this; you're going to want an f1.8 or faster lens. Wanting to capture wave detail means you can't do long exposure on the waves. Wanting stars means you'll need to do a long exposure for that part, but you can't go too long without getting star trails or getting an expensive star tracking mount.

So, what you'd do for this photo, is you'd set up a tripod, and take one exposure done with the intent of getting in the waves and beach -- you'll need wide open aperture, f1.8, probably high ISO too. Then you'll take a second exposure to get the stars -- it'll be around 30 seconds, 1600~ ish ISO, and you'll take like ten of those shots. You'll merge the star photos together to get a lower noise photo of the stars, then merge that result with your beach exposed photo.

So why did I say all that? Because you want a fast lens and a sturdy as shit tripod. Those are the primary determining factors in this photo idea.

Thanks for the advice :) Ended up going shopping and reading round and as I'm only starting out and going to be a bit hit and miss, went for the Nikon d3400 with lens kit and then got a NIKKOR f/1.8 35mm prime as well. Hopefully going to get some snaps this weekend, if the night is clear enough and do some experimenting.

I know it's not like some of the high end kit in this thread but should be good enough to dip my toe in the water, and complement the coolpix bridge camera I have anyway. If I get some pics I'll post them up :)
 
D7500 sounds awesome. Basically a more compact D500. 8fps 14 bit raw for 50 shots (before buffer slowdown), same AF and metering as the D500, tilting LCD like the D500 and D750, $750 less.
It's not that much cheaper than a used, refurb D500 and a crap ton worse. I really would throw my money into a D500. I also keep hearing you can't put a grip onto the 7500. I really just see it as a camera for a person that doesn't do enough camera research to know that it's a downgrade from the previous camera they own. It could have been great but they yanked too many good features out of it. There have been a few occasions where I either left my main card at home or in my computer after transferring files, but I at least was able to shoot off of my backup card. I wouldn't be shooting anything if I had said D7500 it's a feature that's a great back up cause I don't take both cards out of my camera.
 
Thanks for the advice :) Ended up going shopping and reading round and as I'm only starting out and going to be a bit hit and miss, went for the Nikon d3400 with lens kit and then got a NIKKOR f/1.8 35mm prime as well. Hopefully going to get some snaps this weekend, if the night is clear enough and do some experimenting.

I know it's not like some of the high end kit in this thread but should be good enough to dip my toe in the water, and complement the coolpix bridge camera I have anyway. If I get some pics I'll post them up :)
If you want to buy a lens known to be *utterly fantastic* for astrophotography, check out the Samyang/Rokinon 24mm. It's all manual, so focusing might be slightly difficult on a nikon body, but for stars you have plenty of time anyway.
 

RuGalz

Member
If astrophotography ia your thing, I think Pentax has a feature called astrotracker which moves the sensor according to the movement of the stars via gps. They also have IBIS and are weatherproof.

Yep. My 15mm F4 is still my go to lens instead of getting yet another specialized lens for the purpose because of astrotracer function.
 
Just bought another useless prime lens to satisfy my current obsession with swirly bokeh lol.

I almost bought a Petzval actually but as mentioned, it's sorta useless so I went cheap and bought a Helios 44-M6 instead.

Shipping from Ukraine I believe so hopefully Trump will let it through customs haha.
 
Speaking of lens purchases, bought the new Tamron 70-200 G2, can't wait for it to get here on Monday. I wanted something more modern and consistent than my Sigma.
 
Yep also added another lens. The Sony 85fe. Wanted something with a bit extra reach (current longest is only 35) and saw it for £100 off. It's actually quite small and doesn't look crazy on the a6000.
 

v4gr4nt

Member
I think a new D6XX or D7XX and or possibly a new D8XX is expected this year, but if you're ready to upgrade now just get a used FX camera for cheap on ebay and get the new model when it comes out and sell the used one. The current FX cameras all all awesome and would be a huge upgrade anyway.
I guess with the anouncement of the D7500 and no news about the D6XX or D7XX it may be safe to buy now.
Is it the extra money for the D750 worth it over the D610?
 
I guess with the anouncement of the D7500 and no news about the D6XX or D7XX it may be safe to buy now.
Is it the extra money for the D750 worth it over the D610?

They're fairly similar, but the D750 is a tad faster, has a higher rez tilting LCD, lighter, better battery life, can do 1080p 60 video. D610 can only do 30fps at 1080p.

https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=nikon_d610&products=nikon_d750

Low light performance appears to be the same, and dynamic range is probably the same also. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/im...1&x=0.12120167729335407&y=-0.9286079139154726
 
They're fairly similar, but the D750 is a tad faster, has a higher rez tilting LCD, lighter, better battery life, can do 1080p 60 video. D610 can only do 30fps at 1080p.

https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=nikon_d610&products=nikon_d750

Low light performance appears to be the same, and dynamic range is probably the same also. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/im...1&x=0.12120167729335407&y=-0.9286079139154726
So pretty much the only thing better on the 750 is the AF? My 600 is my 24-70 camera any way for events so I guess I'll be fine with my 600 for the next year or so. The weight of my 600 doesn't bother me (I main an 810, which quite bigger than a 600), I run two batteries in my cameras any way and I don't care for video so I guess I made the right choice with my 600.
I guess with the anouncement of the D7500 and no news about the D6XX or D7XX it may be safe to buy now.
Is it the extra money for the D750 worth it over the D610?
Nobody at this point can even fathom what the D750 replacement would be like or priced at. At this rate who's to say if it will even be an upgrade cause they might gimp it in some fashion.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Nobody at this point can even fathom what the D750 replacement would be like or priced at. At this rate who's to say if it will even be an upgrade cause they might gimp it in some fashion.

I think I might be a victim of "it's already good enough" syndrome, because unless their next cameras have some black magic shit inside of it, I can't really see myself updating my Nikon body this cycle. That's a testament to the latest camera tech from Nikon and Canon being so awesome.
 
I think I might be a victim of "it's already good enough" syndrome, because unless their next cameras have some black magic shit inside of it, I can't really see myself updating my Nikon body this cycle. That's a testament to the latest camera tech from Nikon and Canon being so awesome.
That was why I was perfectly happy going after a D810 instead of waiting for the successor. Who's to say I'd even be able to afford it not to mention how big the MP numbers are. I'm already at the point where I do not want bigger files and I love the overall ergonomics design and other aspects of the D810 so I'm perfectly happy.
 

v4gr4nt

Member
I think I might be a victim of "it's already good enough" syndrome, because unless their next cameras have some black magic shit inside of it, I can't really see myself updating my Nikon body this cycle. That's a testament to the latest camera tech from Nikon and Canon being so awesome.
Well said. For me it would be a huge upgrade, so unless the price drop off a lot if they announce a new one, Ill be happy with it for a long while.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Just seen the new canon 35mm macro lens with built in light. What a great idea! Made me wonder - does anyone make LED lights that fit in a filter ring? So you can use it for macro lighting?
 
Just seen the new canon 35mm macro lens with built in light. What a great idea! Made me wonder - does anyone make LED lights that fit in a filter ring? So you can use it for macro lighting?

The closest thing I can think of is the classical macro ring light:
81hI%2BBJ3oLL._SL1500_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Light-Macro-Canon-Tamron/dp/B003LYF5P2/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1492247085&sr=8-25&keywords=macro+light+ring

More compact solution:

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-LED12-Digital-Olympus-Cameras/dp/B004W5VMG0/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1492247085&sr=8-37&keywords=macro+light+ring
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Just seen the new canon 35mm macro lens with built in light. What a great idea! Made me wonder - does anyone make LED lights that fit in a filter ring? So you can use it for macro lighting?
Canon makes the 35mm f2.8 with a light built into the front element
 

Billy Lee

Member
I use the Yongnuo 560 IV and the 560 TN, which handles my wireless flash haha.
Also A7 doesn't have pop up flash, which idgaf cuz I never use it anyway.
The Yongnuo flashes are freaking amazing because any 560III or up, I can completely control all of their settings wirelessly, separately, from the camera (Well, in 6 groups anyway). So nice and convenient. Also cheap as hell! No TTL tho.

Typically I'll have the flash on a stand and I've got a lightbulb that I use for fill light. Thinking of getting another 560, probably just the III, but first want to get lighting umbrellas.

How do you do that? I have two Yongnuos and a cheap trigger and receiver but always set them from the flashes themselves which is not convenient. I don't know of any other way other than buying something like a Pocket Wizard.
 

Ty4on

Member
Ring light is a thing for macro. Just be aware that to don't get any shadows from it so pictures can look flat.

Edit: the neat thing with a pop-up is it can work as a command flash so you get a wireless setup with just one flash.
 
How do you do that? I have two Yongnuos and a cheap trigger and receiver but always set them from the flashes themselves which is not convenient. I don't know of any other way other than buying something like a Pocket Wizard.

Yongnuo 560 TX. It's their radio transmitter, and is pretty much a lower half of their 560's, with just a few differences to enable multi-group triggering. I think the 560IVs do all of this on their own, but of course more expensive and more clunky.

Ring light is a thing for macro. Just be aware that to don't get any shadows from it so pictures can look flat.

Edit: the neat thing with a pop-up is it can work as a command flash so you get a wireless setup with just one flash.
Ring light kinda sucks for macro, tbh. Prefer using a bracket, though it IS heavier.
 

Dr. Malik

FlatAss_
So, what you'd do for this photo, is you'd set up a tripod, and take one exposure done with the intent of getting in the waves and beach -- you'll need wide open aperture, f1.8, probably high ISO too. Then you'll take a second exposure to get the stars -- it'll be around 30 seconds, 1600~ ish ISO,

Is there a Sony lens good enough for this, I am looking at some options right now but I am not confident if its what is needed.
 
Is there a Sony lens good enough for this, I am looking at some options right now but I am not confident if its what is needed.

That depends on your desired composition (or, to be more specific, the field of view you want), but ultimately I'll say yes.

If I were to kit up for this on Sony body, I would pick up the Samyang/Rokinon 24mm F2 (whether it says Samyang or Rokinon makes zero difference -- it's the same lens).
The 24mm f2 is considered the best wide astrophotography lens out there, and is pretty cheap (relatively speaking) for a lens. Alternatively, there's also their 12mm, but this lens ONLY works on the APSC bodies (so no a7), and is MUCH wider than the 24mm.

But, it's a fully manual lens, and will require you to get a handle on how to work with that.

If that's out of the question, Sigma makes a 19mm f2.8 which will have AF, but won't open up as wide, which might make it trickier to get the exposure you want.
 
Surprisingly I got my Helios 44M-6 in the mail today, turns out the seller is Amazon affiliated or whatever so it actually came from Vegas instead of the Ukraine lol. Unfortunately the postman delivered late into the night, like 8PM late, so I haven't really been able to find a shot indoors that demonstrates the swirly bokeh so this will do for now:



I feel like the swirl will be more obvious when there's a considerable distance between the subject and background but obviously it's hard to replicate indoors. I'm definitely gonna test it out outdoors and with Easter being tomorrow, I should be able to get more swirl with the eggs and all that lol.

As a bonus, here's the lens hooked up to a M42 to E Mount adapter on my Sony NEX-5(that I used to use for my previous job... it's a long story haha).

 

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