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[tino]

I've been pretty set on getting an OM-D for my work trips. I've discussed this here. But this past week I had my first week-long trip after handling an OM-D in person. And so I really tried to visualize having the camera and how often it'd be small enough to take with me, and small enough to not be a nuisance.

And, honestly, I just don't think it's small enough. It's my own fault for not really thinking things through; but when hitting the streets and grabbing a beer, going to restaruants, hitting the lake, or going to a free outdoor concert, an OM-D would still likely be too big/goofy to look and feel "casual".

So, I think I want to go even smaller. So now I have my eyes on a NEX. But because of the strange ergonomics and small lens selection, I think I'd get a NEX as a compliment to my DSLR, rather than as a substitute. Which means no need to splurge for the 7; I think I'd just get a 5n and a 16mm 2.8. That would likely work just fine; though I wish it was faster.

But then I debate with myself... would it be smart to go with the EOS-M? Then I could share lenses between my "travel camera" and my "big boy camera". I just hate the looks of that thing. I know that's a stupid reason to not buy a camera; but it just looks so plain and "Joe Consumer" to me.

Plus, used (but great condition) NEX 5 + 16 2.9 = ~$600, versus new (only choice) EOS M and 22 f2 = $800. That's a $200 difference for a camera I'll probably only have a couple lenses for.

The E16 image quality is just sad. It doesn't justify the NEX APSC sensor. You are wasting your time with the E16. Get a DP1/2/x, X100 or RX100.

If you can't put it in a jeans pocket, it's too large to carry it everyday. I mean you can, but IMO is not worth it.

 

[Borman]

So guys, I picked up a basically new Minolta Data memory Back DM-9, and a Quartz Data Back QD-9 (Found some of these for sale in South Korea for 80$). Im having trouble finding an average price for them. Anyone have a recent resource listing prices?

Also picked upa Vertical Control Grip VC-9, but there are a few of those on ebay

 

[dehydratedbabies]

I'm planning to purchase either a Canon T3i, Panasonic GH2, or Canon 5D Mark II, which I will primarily use for video. The T3i is very appealing because I can afford it immediately and still have enough money for one or two nice lenses (plus other video-related equipment), but I often see the ($130 more expensive) GH2 recommended for video instead of the T3i (no moire), and although I understand the superiority of the 5D Mk II vs the T3i with photos I don't know if it's worth the significantly more expensive price in regard to video (plus it doesn't have swivel screen).

Can anyone that has experience with two or more of these cameras offer any advice?

 

[shinshoryuken]

tino

Thanks for the advice awhile ago..

I ended up getting the rx100 instead of the pureview 808....like what you recommended.

My brother got an nex7 and even he was impressed..

 

[tino]

So guys, I picked up a basically new Minolta Data memory Back DM-9, and a Quartz Data Back QD-9 (Found some of these for sale in South Korea for 80$). Im having trouble finding an average price for them. Anyone have a recent resource listing prices?

Also picked upa Vertical Control Grip VC-9, but there are a few of those on ebay

Search completed auction on ebay, it will give you an idea what the going rate is.

tino

Thanks for the advice awhile ago..

I ended up getting the rx100 instead of the pureview 808....like what you recommended.

My brother got an nex7 and even he was impressed..

Enjoy your camera. I play with a RX100 in Sony store today. The operation is very fast. Wish pixel count is lower.

I also played wity an NEX7, the processing time after every shot is insanely long. I am talking about in 5 second neighborhood. I don't know if that display model is busted.

 

[reggieandTFE]

I'm planning to purchase either a Canon T3i, Panasonic GH2, or Canon 5D Mark II, which I will primarily use for video. The T3i is very appealing because I can afford it immediately and still have enough money for one or two nice lenses (plus other video-related equipment), but I often see the ($130 more expensive) GH2 recommended for video instead of the T3i (no moire), and although I understand the superiority of the 5D Mk II vs the T3i with photos I don't know if it's worth the significantly more expensive price in regard to video (plus it doesn't have swivel screen).

Can anyone that has experience with two or more of these cameras offer any advice?

Eos HD and Phillip Bloom have good round ups of DSLRs and their film-making aspects. There are going to be some awesome deals on the GH2 soon as the GH3 will be announced in September.

 

[xValentine]

I also played wity an NEX7, the processing time after every shot is insanely long. I am talking about in 5 second neighborhood. I don't know if that display model is busted.

Now that's ridiculous. Maybe that model is busted, my NEX7 is seriously fast on power up and in-between shots.

 

[Red]

I'm planning to purchase either a Canon T3i, Panasonic GH2, or Canon 5D Mark II, which I will primarily use for video. The T3i is very appealing because I can afford it immediately and still have enough money for one or two nice lenses (plus other video-related equipment), but I often see the ($130 more expensive) GH2 recommended for video instead of the T3i (no moire), and although I understand the superiority of the 5D Mk II vs the T3i with photos I don't know if it's worth the significantly more expensive price in regard to video (plus it doesn't have swivel screen).

Can anyone that has experience with two or more of these cameras offer any advice?

I have not shot with a GH2. I've used a T3 and 5DMkII. The 5D is a better purchase for video. It offers more options for resolution and frame rate and performs better in low light. If these things aren't deal breakers for you, get the T3, as putting money toward good glass is what will pay off in the future.

I don't know if the T3 can use magic lantern. That's worth looking into.

The moire issues with Canons DSLRs are frustrating. I haven't seen GH2 video so I can't speak for it. The only Canon camera I've seen without moire problems in video is the 5DMkIII, but that's probably way out of your price range.

 

[Borman]

Search completed auction on ebay, it will give you an idea what the going rate is.

Trust me, I did

 

[Xdye7]

The 7D autofocus is very fiddly. It works prefect; you just have to know how and have the patience to set it up.

 

[tino]

Trust me, I did

This one? About 50 bux.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-Max...894425546?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item41669cc9ca

 

[mrklaw]

I have not shot with a GH2. I've used a T3 and 5DMkII. The 5D is a better purchase for video. It offers more options for resolution and frame rate and performs better in low light. If these things aren't deal breakers for you, get the T3, as putting money toward good glass is what will pay off in the future.

I don't know if the T3 can use magic lantern. That's worth looking into.

The moire issues with Canons DSLRs are frustrating. I haven't seen GH2 video so I can't speak for it. The only Canon camera I've seen without moire problems in video is the 5DMkIII, but that's probably way out of your price range.

How about the t3i? I thought they beefed up the video support on it?

How bad is moire and can it be post processed out? Can't be that bad if so many people are using 5Ds

 

[Red]

How about the t3i? I thought they beefed up the video support on it?

How bad is moire and can it be post processed out? Can't be that bad if so many people are using 5Ds

I've used the 5DMkII more than a T3i (which I've only spent a few minutes with), but I recall the 5D having more frame rate/resolution combinations. I could be wrong.

The 5DmkII is full frame, which makes a pretty significant difference.

The moire 'issue' is bad. Best way to deal with it is to avoid it; don't shoot stripes, don't shoot brick walls, etc. There are color banding problems with DSLR footage sometimes as well, but moire is probably the most obvious visual disturbance (outside of, maybe, rolling shutter artifacts).

If there is an easy way to deal with moire in post, I don't know about it. I think there was a tutorial on Philip Bloom's blog months ago, and I'm sure there are other resources available, but I don't think it is something that can be remedied 100%.

The reason so many people are using 5Ds is the same reason so many people are using any other DSLR for video --- their footage looks fucking incredible! No visual problem can really overshadow the sheer quality of what you can get from these relatively cheap cameras. Sure they have issues, and if you're trying to get something easy-to-use a dedicated video camera is a better bet, but if you want something that looks great, go DSLR.

You can't swap out lenses on most dedicated video cameras. You can't get the same type of range, or DoF, or small form factor, or low-light performance.

The images you get when you are properly using a DSLR for video can be astounding, but they aren't without their downsides. Limited sound recording ability, often without headphone jacks; caps on clip sizes/recording length; lenses typically designed for AF, not MF; lack of built-in IS; no built-in NDs; etc. The list goes on. You can't go into it expecting to buy a miracle device.

There are lesser mentioned problems you might run into as well... I've seen skipped frames and corrupt clips using a 60D and 5DMkII, even with 30+MB/s cards, I've had my 7D just shit on entire takes for no apparent reason ("cannot be played back"), the only readily available option being an expensive service by aeroquartet, even tonight I ran into repeated overheating shut downs of my camera while on a 40 minute shoot.

 

[phisheep]

I've used the 5DMkII more than a T3i (which I've only spent a few minutes with), but I recall the 5D having more frame rate/resolution combinations. I could be wrong.

Isn't it the other way around? Vague memories that the 5DmkII does (but pretty well only does) 1080 at 30fps, while T3i does 1080 at 30/25/25 and 720 at 60/30/25/24. But I think 5DMkII has stereo sound.

 

[Red]

Isn't it the other way around? Vague memories that the 5DmkII does (but pretty well only does) 1080 at 30fps, while T3i does 1080 at 30/25/25 and 720 at 60/30/25/24. But I think 5DMkII has stereo sound.

You're probably right. It's been a while since I've used a MkII but that sounds right now that you say it.

 

[Sec0nd]

Hi guys, I need some newb friendly DSLR advice.

I'm looking to buy a nice DSLR camera. The main use of the camera will be to make videos, but making awesome photo's will be great too. Two of my friends got a Canon 550D, or the T2i (I think). These look great and they also recommend me to buy this one.

However I was looking around and saw the Canon 600D, or the T3i. This one kinda looks better to me because of the flip out screen and it's only about 40-50 euros more.

But I also asked my parents for advice because my mother is a (semi)professional photographer, with her crazy 7000 euro camera. They recommend me to get the Canon 650D, or T4i, because 'it's newer so it's better. It also has more of a focus on filming.' This camera is however a lot more expensive, as it will probably cost me around 150-170 more than the T3i.

So what would GAF recommend to someone who primarily wants to film but also want to make photographs? Oh and I never had a camera before so I'm completely new to this.

Thanks!

 

[subversus]

I printed some photos today (20*30 mm) and was really impressed with Nex-3 quality. No noise, very smooth.

 

[Thraktor]

You're probably right. It's been a while since I've used a MkII but that sounds right now that you say it.

The 5D MkII does 24fps as well since a firmware update a while back. I also avoid using the 720p mode on my 550D, the image quality really isn't great.

One advantage worth considering for the 5D MkII over their consumer level cameras is the ability to choose intermediate ISOs for video (ie 125, 160, 250, 320, etc as well as the usual 100, 200, 400, etc). When you're shooting video you have a fixed shutter speed (half the framerate, usually), and you usually choose aperture based on depth-of-field considerations, which means you mostly have to use ISO and ND filters to get exposure right. Having smaller granularity to your ISO choice makes this quite a bit easier. It's not a deal-breaker by any means, but I figured I'd mention it as it's usually not covered in reviews.

Hi guys, I need some newb friendly DSLR advice.

I'm looking to buy a nice DSLR camera. The main use of the camera will be to make videos, but making awesome photo's will be great too. Two of my friends got a Canon 550D, or the T2i (I think). These look great and they also recommend me to buy this one.

However I was looking around and saw the Canon 600D, or the T3i. This one kinda looks better to me because of the flip out screen and it's only about 40-50 euros more.

But I also asked my parents for advice because my mother is a (semi)professional photographer, with her crazy 7000 euro camera. They recommend me to get the Canon 650D, or T4i, because 'it's newer so it's better. It also has more of a focus on filming.' This camera is however a lot more expensive, as it will probably cost me around 150-170 more than the T3i.

So what would GAF recommend to someone who primarily wants to film but also want to make photographs? Oh and I never had a camera before so I'm completely new to this.

Thanks!

Video quality on the 550D, 600D and 650D are effectively identical. The 600D has an articulating screen, which can be handy for composing shots from awkward angles. The 650D has better autofocus in video mode (and there are a couple of lenses with quiet autofocus motors designed to be used with the camera for video). Personally I'd go with the 600D, as I stick to manual focus in video myself, but if you're going to be doing documentary-style stuff and would be autofocussing a lot, then the 650D might be worth it.

Also, the 550D doesn't have any manual audio controls while shooting video. I'm pretty sure the 650D does, but I'm not sure about the 600D (worth checking). If you want to do on-camera audio recording, manual audio controls are pretty essential.

I printed some photos today (20*30 mm) and was really impressed with Nex-3 quality. No noise, very smooth.

20*30mm? Printing some postage stamps?

 

[subversus]

20*30mm? Printing some postage stamps?

lol, you got me.

20*30 centimeters. A4.

 

[dehydratedbabies]

Eos HD and Phillip Bloom have good round ups of DSLRs and their film-making aspects. There are going to be some awesome deals on the GH2 soon as the GH3 will be announced in September.

I've been reading both of those sites. How long do you think it will take for GH2 deals to emerge? I want to buy a camera by the end of September at the latest.

The 5D is a better purchase for video. It offers more options for resolution and frame rate and performs better in low light. If these things aren't deal breakers for you, get the T3, as putting money toward good glass is what will pay off in the future.

I don't know if the T3 can use magic lantern. That's worth looking into.

The low light video performance and full frame are what particularly interest me about the 5DMkII, but I can't decide if it's worth $1,500 more for me right now. I'm really hoping to hear from someone who has shot video with both cameras in various lighting environments.

The T3i can use Magic Lantern, although apparently there are some limitations with headphones and external mics.

One advantage worth considering for the 5D MkII over their consumer level cameras is the ability to choose intermediate ISOs for video (ie 125, 160, 250, 320, etc as well as the usual 100, 200, 400, etc). When you're shooting video you have a fixed shutter speed (half the framerate, usually), and you usually choose aperture based on depth-of-field considerations, which means you mostly have to use ISO and ND filters to get exposure right. Having smaller granularity to your ISO choice makes this quite a bit easier. It's not a deal-breaker by any means, but I figured I'd mention it as it's usually not covered in reviews.

Yeah, this is also why I'm having a hard time dismissing the 5D MkII.

The fourth camera that looks very appealing to me is the Sony NEX-VG20 thanks to its interchangeable lens:

However, it too is much more expensive than the T3i and GH2 ($1,600).

Video quality on the 550D, 600D and 650D are effectively identical. The 600D has an articulating screen, which can be handy for composing shots from awkward angles. The 650D has better autofocus in video mode (and there are a couple of lenses with quiet autofocus motors designed to be used with the camera for video). Personally I'd go with the 600D, as I stick to manual focus in video myself, but if you're going to be doing documentary-style stuff and would be autofocussing a lot, then the 650D might be worth it.

I've been unsatisfied with the autofocus in the T4i footage I've looked at, I think the T3i is a better value right now.

 

[Borman]

This one? About 50 bux.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-Max...894425546?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item41669cc9ca

I managed to find that one, but not the other accessory. Still should turn a nice profit on the stuff

 

[BlueTsunami]

Isn't it the other way around? Vague memories that the 5DmkII does (but pretty well only does) 1080 at 30fps, while T3i does 1080 at 30/25/25 and 720 at 60/30/25/24. But I think 5DMkII has stereo sound.

I believe the 5DMKII got an update that allows for 24fps shooting at 1080p after some other newer model Canon body came out soon after with the capability

 

[sneaky77]

So is there really an issue with the autofocus on the 7D or is that kinda overstated?

 

[Xdye7]

So is there really an issue with the autofocus on the 7D or is that kinda overstated?

The 7D autofocus is very fiddly. It works prefect; you just have to know how and have the patience to set it up.

I have never had an issue with mine. My friend also has a 7D and no problems with his either.

 

[Red]

So is there really an issue with the autofocus on the 7D or is that kinda overstated?

I can only speak for myself, but I get much better results with MF, and even ignoring focus confirm completely. No one else in this thread seems to have issues, and the few people I've talked to personally seem to be fine with theirs as well.

Is there a way to check AF points in software during post? I'd like to share some pictures to illustrate my problems, but they're useless if I can't show where focus should have been.

 

[sneaky77]

I have never had an issue with mine. My friend also has a 7D and no problems with his either.

So any idea why is called fiddly and stuff like that? Just wondering since I been researching if it would be a decent upgrade for me or maybe wait till photokina announcements but I doubt I can afford a brand new released body

 

[Red]

So any idea why is called fiddly and stuff like that? Just wondering since I been researching if it would be a decent upgrade for me or maybe wait till photokina announcements but I doubt I can afford a brand new released body

There are a lot of AF options with the 7D. Some people believe the AF "issues" are a result of users not properly using them. I am not sure what people mean when they say that it's "fiddly," but if you google "7D AF problems" you'll get a ton of results.

I am pretty sure in my case it is a problem with the camera. It's never focused properly, since day 1, and for months I tried to figure out what I was doing wrong. I always focused manually in school (film production major) and had no problems getting sharp focus, but this little camera had me stumped. I've had it about two years now and I'm still having the same problems I had at the start, which leads me to believe it is a hardware problem.

That said, there are clearly people who get great results from it. I don't know if the problems are from a batch of bad cameras, or user incompetence, or a mixture of both. I know the 7D in particular has attracted a lot of people new to DSLRs (myself included), so there is likely an element of user error amidst some of the outcry.

 

[QualityPixel]

I don't know if this is new, or news to anybody but B&H is blowing out used and refurbished Nikon DSLRs (high-end and low-end) and Nikon 1 cameras. Deals like the D300 for $500 and what not. If you are looking for any used/refurb camera body deals, then you should definitely check it out.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...=15488&N=4294182649+4291315846&O=&srtclk=sort

 

[sneaky77]

There are a lot of AF options with the 7D. Some people believe the AF "issues" are a result of users not properly using them. I am not sure what people mean when they say that it's "fiddly," but if you google "7D AF problems" you'll get a ton of results.

I am pretty sure in my case it is a problem with the camera. It's never focused properly, since day 1, and for months I tried to figure out what I was doing wrong. I always focused manually in school (film production major) and had no problems getting sharp focus, but this little camera had me stumped. I've had it about two years now and I'm still having the same problems I had at the start, which leads me to believe it is a hardware problem.

That said, there are clearly people who get great results from it. I don't know if the problems are from a batch of bad cameras, or user incompetence, or a mixture of both. I know the 7D in particular has attracted a lot of people new to DSLRs (myself included), so there is likely an element of user error amidst some of the outcry.

Did you send it back to Canon to repair if its a hardware problem?

I been looking at both 7D and Mkii bodies I believe my wide lense is EF so it should work for FF I need to check if my sigma 24-70 would work on ff or that would make the point kinda moot for now.

 

[Red]

Did you send it back to Canon to repair if its a hardware problem?

I been looking at both 7D and Mkii bodies I believe my wide lense is EF so it should work for FF I need to check if my sigma 24-70 would work on ff or that would make the point kinda moot for now.

I haven't sent it back. I contacted Canon about troubleshooting, and they suggest I send it in, but I couldn't afford to ship it at the time. I've been dealing with it ever since.

I prefer manually focusing in most cases anyway. I do it out of habit.

I would need to pay at least the cost of shipping, plus, I assume, repairs.

But anyway: if you are considering a 7D, I think it is a great camera regardless of my AF problems. I would recommend it. I actually prefer its design over the 5DMkII.

The MkIII on the other hand...

 

[Xdye7]

So any idea why is called fiddly and stuff like that? Just wondering since I been researching if it would be a decent upgrade for me or maybe wait till photokina announcements but I doubt I can afford a brand new released body

There are a lot of options/settings that can take a while and a bit of testing to dial in. Any "problems" are user error. I think Canon attracted too many newbies with the way they advertise(d) the 7D.

I am pretty sure in my case it is a problem with the camera. It's never focused properly, since day 1, and for months I tried to figure out what I was doing wrong. I always focused manually in school (film production major) and had no problems getting sharp focus, but this little camera had me stumped. I've had it about two years now and I'm still having the same problems I had at the start, which leads me to believe it is a hardware problem

Have you used AF microadjustment?

 

[Red]

Have you used AF microadjustment?

Yes.

Shots aren't consistently out of focus. I would say it is about 15-20% spot on, 20% completely off, totally unusable, and the rest somewhere in between, not as sharp as they should be.

Though I will say this: I updated to 2.0 two days ago and since then I've been having much, much better luck with AF. I haven't really tested it yet to see if it's just my mind playing tricks on me, but it seems like the ratio of hits to misses has gone up. I didn't read anything about AF changes in the firmware notes so I hesitate to say it's been fixed.

 

[sneaky77]

There are a lot of options/settings that can take a while and a bit of testing to dial in. Any "problems" are user error. I think Canon attracted too many newbies with the way they advertise(d) the 7D.



Have you used AF microadjustment?

On my 50D my most used focus mode is center spot focus and then recomposing as needed, I been reading some about it and there seem to be some confusion as to the right way to use the focus modes, guess a good read of the manual may help unless is a fubar body apparently

 

[Xdye7]

Yes.

Shots aren't consistently out of focus. I would say it is about 15-20% spot on, 20% completely off, totally unusable, and the rest somewhere in between, not as sharp as they should be.

Though I will say this: I updated to 2.0 two days ago and since then I've been having much, much better luck with AF. I haven't really tested it yet to see if it's just my mind playing tricks on me, but it seems like the ratio of hits to misses has gone up. I didn't read anything about AF changes in the firmware notes so I hesitate to say it's been fixed.

Did you do it correctly? Using the AF microadjust feature will often make the problem worse, or worse at some distances but better at others.

Now that you have 2.0.0, check to see if your AF microadjustment data has been reset.

 

[Red]

Did you do it correctly? Using the AF microadjust feature will often make the problem worse, or worse at some distances but better at others.

Now that you have 2.0.0, check to see if your AF microadjustment data has been reset.

Not sure what you mean. Is there a way to do it incorrectly? I did focus tests at different settings but it was never improved over 0. I set it back at 0 and have left it there. No idea if it was reset or not.

I didn't test microadjustments at different distances, only at about ten feet.

I haven't kept extensive records of when I get accurate AF, but I've noticed the camera has an easier time nailing focus within that ten foot range. When you go beyond that, it's a dice roll.

Focus confirm is terrible though. I don't think I've ever had a single good result from that.

Here is a slight example using focus confirm. Top pic was taken at the flash of a focus light, second one I ignored the light and used my own judgment:

The focus point that lit up was right on the baby's eyes.

Is there a way to check where the FC light flashed using photoshop or something?

 

[RuGalz]

The focus point that lit up was right on the baby's eyes.

Is there a way to check where the FC light flashed using photoshop or something?

The exif says it's at f1.4 is that right? With such shadow dof, it's actually not hard for AF system to miss slightly in my experience. There are so many variables that can go wrong: lens' build quality tolerance, camera's build quality tolerance, AF point being larger than the little dot that is shown in the VF, and of course AF accuracy consistency

Microadjustment can help narrowing the build quality tolerance between lens and body but there is plenty of room for other types of errors. I have a lens that I had a lot of problems with for a while until I finally realize it is pretty much doing what it is supposed to do but just not matching my expectations. You really have to do a lot of tests to narrow down the issue.

 

[Red]

The exif says it's at f1.4 is that right? With such shadow dof, it's actually not hard for AF system to miss slightly in my experience. There are so many variables that can go wrong: lens' build quality tolerance, camera's build quality tolerance, AF point being larger than the little dot that is shown in the VF, and of course AF accuracy consistency

Microadjustment can help narrowing the build quality tolerance between lens and body but there is plenty of room for other types of errors. I have a lens that I had a lot of problems with for a while until I finally realize it is pretty much doing what it is supposed to do but just not matching my expectations. You really have to do a lot of tests to narrow down the issue.

That's an example of manual focus confirm. Do the same issues still stand? I know it's tough to hold 1.4 but I shot that as soon as getting a flash.

 

[reggieandTFE]

I've been reading both of those sites. How long do you think it will take for GH2 deals to emerge? I want to buy a camera by the end of September at the latest

Right now, it's only $729 on amazon with a kit lens. I expect it to drop even more at times over the next month to clear stock. The GH3 will be announced in mid-September.

 

[RuGalz]

That's an example of manual focus confirm. Do the same issues still stand? I know it's tough to hold 1.4 but I shot that as soon as getting a flash.

Yea because the only part of error you have eliminated is the potential of the lens motor over turning or under turning. Rest of the AF system is pretty much still working the same way as AFing to give you the confirmation.

The biggest problem for me is that AF system picks the point not where I think it is because AF area is pretty big -- larger than the red dots. Also, another thing I found during my tests is that I thought I was taking shots as soon as I see the confirmation, by the time the confirmation is displayed until my body reacts to it, my hand had already turned the focus ring too far. For me, I use the confirmation to tell me that I'm within the range then I adjust it as needed, especially when DOF is shallow; hence, I don't buy AF lenses that do not have quick shift feature (not sure what they call it for Canon but the lens with such feature allows you to manual adjust after AF system does its work without having to switch over to MF).

Edit: One quick test you should do is take a sheet of white paper and put a black dot on it. Then, under good light condition, pick a AF point on the camera and see within what area around that point the camera is able to obtain focus. Then you know in the future that anything within that area could be considered as the focus point for the camera.

 

[Roland Garros]

Hi guys, total beginner here. Was just wondering about your thoughts on the Canon 650D? Is it any good?

 

[Forsete]

I also played wity an NEX7, the processing time after every shot is insanely long. I am talking about in 5 second neighborhood. I don't know if that display model is busted.

Borked, or using a slow memory card (in RAW each image is 24MB).. Or maybe you were using the camera in one of the fancy HDR-modes (there are others which add PP, but I forgot what they do since I dont use them) which spits out a finished "HDR" JPEG.
The action on mine is instant.

Flickr should joygasm over instant HDR-shots like these, right?

In other news, NEX-cameras are getting hacked. Lets see what this brings to ze tabel. Maybe I can find a use for my old NEX5 again?
I probably wont be risking a flash on the NEX7.

 

[tino]

Its probabky HDR or something. I changed to lowest resolution and it still took 5 seconds to process.

 

[BlueTsunami]

In other news, NEX-cameras are getting hacked. Lets see what this brings to ze tabel. Maybe I can find a use for my old NEX5 again?
I probably wont be risking a flash on the NEX7.

Read earlier that they could possibly get 48Mbit 1080p video (even the old NEX5). Wow. That would remove the IQ advantage the GH2 has over the NEX series in regards to compression. I'd love to see what an uncompressed video looks like from a NEX or even the 5DMKII. This shit should be standard but I understand they have dedicated video products to protect.

 

[kr2t0s]

How's the Fuji X100 these days? I know it received a lot of firmware updates which I've heard has made it better.

How's the manual focus on it?

 

[radios shipping overview]

How's the Fuji X100 these days? I know it received a lot of firmware updates which I've heard has made it better.

How's the manual focus on it?

Autofocus has been much improved, and I hear that the manual focus now takes fewer turns of the ring to move through the full range, but it's still not great.

It's also discontinued, and rumors say a new model (like an X200) will be announced soon.

 

[Xdye7]

I didn't test microadjustments at different distances, only at about ten feet.

That would be the way to do it if you only shot at about ten feet.

Focus confirm is terrible though. I don't think I've ever had a single good result from that.

If the AF is missing focus, the focus confirm is only showing where the camera would have focused using AF.

Is there a way to check where the FC light flashed using photoshop or something?

Maybe in Canon's DPP? Exif data perhaps?

 

[EviLore]

How's the Fuji X100 these days?

Killing it in my travel thread

 

[dehydratedbabies]

I should be pulling the trigger on a GH2 tomorrow, if anyone has any final words of warning/encouragement. I narrowed my options down to it and the T3i but the lack of moire issues is ultimately why the GH2 won. I'm excited!

 

[indigo-cyclops]

I should be pulling the trigger on a GH2 tomorrow, if anyone has any final words of warning/encouragement. I narrowed my options down to it and the T3i but the lack of moire issues is ultimately why the GH2 won. I'm excited!

I absolutely love my GH2, especially for shooting video. I have two videos of test footage I made recently, and then did some color correction on. Not very interesting compositions or subject matter, but I wanted to just see the process/results for myself. Hack the firmware and you will not regret your purchase.

http://www.youtube.com/user/indigodvsk

 

[VNZ]

The focus point that lit up was right on the baby's eyes.

Is there a way to check where the FC light flashed using photoshop or something?

Apples Aperture can show the focus point used (at least for the cameras I used when I used Aperture).