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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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K

Kenka

Member
Shambles said:
There should be two connections to the motherboard, one to the hard drive, one or two to the GPU depending on how many the GPU takes and the PSU should be plugged into the wall. Each additional optical drive or hard drive will need it's own power connection as well.

The motherboard connections involve one 20/24 pin connection (The widest cable coming off the PSU) and also a 4/8 pin connection that powers the CPU and is usually located near the CPU socket. Both the 4/8 and 20/24 pin power connections probably have a detachable segment of 4 pins to switch between the two sizes. I'm guessing the motherboard probably has a 24 pin MB connection and a 4 pin CPU connection but I'd have to see it to know for sure. The connection(s) to the GPU should be labelled PCIE and will exist either as 6 pin or 6/8pin connection(s). And yes, the SATA power connectors will be wider than the SATA connections themselves.

Here's a video of a build going veeery slow, you might find it useful.
Click to expand...

I don't know what to say Shambles, you always took the time to give comprehensive answers, thank you so much :)

Well, I can't read the video for some reason and this is why I swam into uncharted territories. The thing I can say though, îs that I connected the GPU power sockets, CPU power sockets, mobo socket, the fans, the HDD and the optical drive. The thing is that I have no idea if the cables have an order or not. Everything could physicallyconnect of course but I don't want to see any negative outcome when I turn the power on due to miscabling.

Also, my HDD has 8 pins in its back that are totally unused. I don't know what to do with them. But thanks for your comments, they've helped me to have a clear overview of the possible problems.
 
K

Kenka

Member
Shambles said:
Go ahead and push that power button (Make sure the PSU is plugged into the wall :p)
Click to expand...

I am fucked up after having walked 4 kilometres with my build components and an additional laptop on my back. I'll sleep and push it tomorrow. There is no way I can get off my bed and walk into the living room, sorry :(

But I'll let everyone know if it craps out, ha ha.

:)
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
hongesagatame said:
Thanks alot once again, much clearer now. :)
Click to expand...

The Q08 and V354 have very similar dimensions. You could rock a mATX which you could use to overclock with.

Alternatively, if you want to keep the form factor of the ITX, just going with a 2500 or 2600 (non-K) will still give you an amazing gaming rig.

knitoe said:
Think, I found my new PC. Wanted something iPad like, but can still run full Windows programs.

Asus EP121: $1099

The only negative is ~4hr battery life, but it's kinda expect since it's running dual core i5. Probably going to have to spend another $150 for a Energizer XP18000 Rechargeable Power Pack to extend battery life to 8+hrs.
Click to expand...
If I had 1 grand to blow, that'd be the thing I'd get. If you do end up getting it, let me know how you like it. I am very very interested.
 
S

scogoth

Member
Any recommendations on wireless cards? So far have tried an Asus PCE-N13 and a D-Link DWA-556 with the Asus not getting a signal and the Dlink drivers crashing the computer. Wireless connection is very weak but my Macbook Pro and iPhone can get a signal. I'd prefer PCIe (I have no PCI slots) but if there is a USB adapter that has excellent reception I'm willing to try anything.
 
Z

zombieshavebrains

I have not used cocaine
Think i might be in need of a new GPU. My current rig:

CPU: Intel i7 930 @2.80GHz
RAM: 4gb
GPU: nVidia 8800GTS 320gb
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit

I know i have a decent processor but my GPU is nearly 4 years old. I'm looking for something in maybe the $200 range. I guess i might be more biased towards nVidia because EVGA has always done me right but if the best cost to performance is from ATI i can go with them. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
 
K

knitoe

Member
mkenyon said:
If I had 1 grand to blow, that'd be the thing I'd get. If you do end up getting it, let me know how you like it. I am very very interested.
Click to expand...
I just put in a order through Amazon. It's not in stock and people are saying 3-4 weeks wait time. Now, the long wait. And, I don't see how I wouldn't love the thing. This saves me from having to invest in Laptop and iPad.
 
T

The M.O.B

Member
zombieshavebrains said:
Think i might be in need of a new GPU. My current rig:

CPU: Intel i7 930 @2.80GHz
RAM: 4gb
GPU: nVidia 8800GTS 320gb
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit

I know i have a decent processor but my GPU is nearly 4 years old. I'm looking for something in maybe the $200 range. I guess i might be more biased towards nVidia because EVGA has always done me right but if the best cost to performance is from ATI i can go with them. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
Click to expand...

For around $200, your looking at either of the following.

NVIDIA
-GeForce 460GTX

ATI
-Radeon HD 6870

Performance is very close between them and they are considered some of the best bang for bucks cards out there.
 
S

shadowsdarknes

Member
hey guys, I had my notebook (acer aspire 8930g) stolen last year, have been computer-less at college for months now.

The features I liked the most on the acer was the sound, screen size and power providing a great multi-media experience. I am in the market for a similar machine.

Big screen sizes are great, however a plus for my last computer was a pain as well. I want to downgrade from 18.4 to 17.3 but no smaller. Resolution must be 1080p, unfortunately my last acer was not so this is one desirable upgrade.

Must have excellent sound quality (although I believe acer may have the highest quality audio output in the market). If another brand is close behind, lagging by merely centimeters, I can compromise.

And lastly, the specifics. A gpu is not necessary however a welcome addition if at the right price and quality. Otherwise a generic gpu that can run internet flash games nicely will make me happy. I definitely want a i7 considering my last notebook ran a core II duo, but an i5 is a significant upgrade if I am not mistaken? Compromises must be made assuredly, so whichever package has more pros than cons is my machine. RAM, at least 4 DDR3, unless GAF has suggestions of higher/lower. RAM is one area I believe you can cut the most costs so all advice is welcome. 500GB of HDD would make me happiest as well however disk space is another way to cut cost corners. 320GB is the lowest I will compromise.

That there is my dream machine. I am hoping for a max price of $1,200? It is certainly possible. I saw a similar machine on newegg (an acer ethos) for $1,199.99. However, at that time I didn't have a job and the deal is off. I need GAF's help now. What other brands (besides ASUS) have everything I ask for at that price? The only place I know to look to is NewEgg, which has every brand, but I don't want to sift through all the shit to find a suitable machine. What brands should I be looking at? And if it is price feasible, should I look into building a machine? If yes, what site should I visit to configure a new notebook?
 
Z

Zzoram

Member
Acer has plenty of notebooks with HD6550 GPU and Core i5 CPU for under $1000

If you had an Acer before and liked it (how many years did you have it?) you should consider those.
 
·

·feist·

Member
Crucial M4/Micron C400
Eb6ND.jpg


Micron RealSSD™ C400 Demo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PiMg5562Pw

C400 SSD Benchmark Results—Yeah, It’s Fast
http://www.micronblogs.com/2011/03/c400-ssd-benchmark-results—yeah-it’s-fast/
Ben Thiel
Mar 21, 2011

Several of you have been asking to see additional benchmark results from the C400. Micron’s product engineering teams tailor their performance testing suites to OEM requirements, which focus on IOMeter and PCMark® Vantage data. You can see these numbers in our datasheet.

But we know most of you are interested in seeing a wide variety of tests. Our Crucial team runs many of the tests popular with reviewers, and I’ve included screen shots from AS SSD, ATTO, and CrystalDiskMark for the Crucial m4 SSD (the consumer version of the C400 OEM drive). Enjoy. You can see why we believe the C400 and m4 will be one of the most compelling client SSD designs of the year; great performance, leading 25nm NAND, and Micron’s thorough quality and reliability testing. More in-depth performance tests will be available from all your favorite reviewers in a couple weeks.

AS SSD
AS_SSD_256GB.jpg


ATTO
ATTO_Disk_Bench_256GB.jpg


CrystalDiskMark
CDM_256GB.jpg
 
K

knitoe

Member
They need to show benchmarks of the affordable C400 64GB or 128GB. Few people are going to buy the tested $400+ 256GB version, but even then, that write speed is going to get spanked by the new SandForce 2000 chips.
 
·

·feist·

Member
So after numerous companies released modified versions of what were essentially Cooler Master CM690 I offshoots these past few years, looks like Rosewill is the first to build a case molded after the CM690 II.

For anyone in the market, Rosewill and the suppliers did a nice job with what's turned out to be one of the stronger ~$100 cases on sale. Not surprising, if you consider the starting point.

USB 3.0, dual 120mm intakes (5 fans total), modular HDD cage (6 HDD slots, split into 3 removable sections of 2 slots each), and an external HDD dock. They've even improved on the CM690 II's 80mm fan option for cooling behind the motherboard, by switching to a 120mm fan option. Probably Rosewill's best all around case.

Rosewill Blackhawk
http://www.rosewill.com/products/1762/productDetail.htm
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K4TEA4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107
31dYhl2R8-L._SL500_AA300_.jpg
41NsasPWBOL._AA300_.jpg
41RIpp0oIdL._AA300_.jpg

Unboxing: Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_aEGO7ARq4


knitoe said:
They need to show benchmarks of the affordable C400 64GB or 128GB. Few people are going to buy the tested $400+ 256GB version, but even then, that write speed is going to get spanked by the new SandForce 2000 chips.
Click to expand...
Yeah, everyone's mostly using their fastest numbers, regardless of price point, or even if it's an enterprise product. Intel's G3 figures have also been coming in.

Still can't believe that SandForce delivered on their performance projections from last year. We need as much SSD competition as possible.
 
B

Bidermaier

Member
After a year playing on a (non gaming) laptop im considering building a budget desktop.
Im planing to play Eve Online, LOTRO, Civ5 and a few console like games from steam (just purchased Batman AA for less than a fiver at steam <3 )

Any sugesion is welcome this is what I have on my basket:

ASROCK M3A770DE 770 Socket AM3 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz Socket AM3 8MB L3 Cache 125W Retail Boxed Processor
OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz Obsidian Memory Kit 1.65V CL9(9-9-9-24)
PowerColor HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI HDMI DP Out PCI-E Graphics Cards
Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache
CoolerMaster 600W Silent Pro Modular PSU - 50A Single Rail 9x SATA 2x PCI-E
Antec 300 Three Hundred Case
Samsung SyncMaster P2450H TFT LCD 24" HDMI Monitor
 
S

Shambles

Member
Bidermaier said:
After a year playing on a (non gaming) laptop im considering building a budget desktop.
Im planing to play Eve Online, LOTRO, Civ5 and a few console like games from steam (just purchased Batman AA for less than a fiver at steam <3 )

Any sugesion is welcome this is what I have on my basket:

ASROCK M3A770DE 770 Socket AM3 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz Socket AM3 8MB L3 Cache 125W Retail Boxed Processor
OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz Obsidian Memory Kit 1.65V CL9(9-9-9-24)
PowerColor HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI HDMI DP Out PCI-E Graphics Cards
Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache
CoolerMaster 600W Silent Pro Modular PSU - 50A Single Rail 9x SATA 2x PCI-E
Antec 300 Three Hundred Case
Samsung SyncMaster P2450H TFT LCD 24" HDMI Monitor
Click to expand...

As much as I've loved AMD for giving awesome value for budget builds I just can't recommend them at any price point now besides their <70$ CPUs. I would recommend moving to the sandy bridge platform with either the i3 2100 or i5 2300 with an H67 motherboard. Hardware Secrets reviews the PSU fairly well. Doesn't have a lot of overload room but good noise and ripple and didn't burn out when overloaded.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Flying_Phoenix said:
Should I do it through the store I brought it from (Tigerdirect.com) or the manufactuerer (Asus)?

Which would take the shortest? Which would allow me to keep my current one than have me send them the broken one once I get the new one (I remember that happened to me before)?
Click to expand...
Try and get an Advanced RMA from ASUS (You get new board, they hold a charge, you send old board back).
I don't think TigerDirect even deals with returns.
Kenka said:
All in all, I am frustrated and worried. Also, was it a good choice to go for the LE version of the P8P67 motherboard ? Wll it hinder further overclocking ? I should also add that I bought a i3-2100 and planned to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge processor later on (2013-2014) on the same motherboard.
Click to expand...
What a champ.

The LE is fine. You can only overclock 'K' series CPU's. Ivy ridge is 2011, a new socket, and will not work with Sandy Bridge (1155). You can upgrade to a 2500K or 2600K and the LE will be fine for overclocking those however.
Bidermaier said:
After a year playing on a (non gaming) laptop im considering building a budget desktop.
Im planing to play Eve Online, LOTRO, Civ5 and a few console like games from steam (just purchased Batman AA for less than a fiver at steam <3 )

Any sugesion is welcome this is what I have on my basket:

ASROCK M3A770DE 770 Socket AM3 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz Socket AM3 8MB L3 Cache 125W Retail Boxed Processor
OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz Obsidian Memory Kit 1.65V CL9(9-9-9-24)
PowerColor HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI HDMI DP Out PCI-E Graphics Cards
Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache
CoolerMaster 600W Silent Pro Modular PSU - 50A Single Rail 9x SATA 2x PCI-E
Antec 300 Three Hundred Case
Samsung SyncMaster P2450H TFT LCD 24" HDMI Monitor
Click to expand...
Looks good. I'd swap the 965 for a 955 to save $10 (That's like 2 steam games). They clock the same anyway.

If you can stretch to a 2500K and a P676 board it would last you quite a lot longer though.
Most of the things you listed need a good CPU so that should help too.
 
K

Kenka

Member
zombieshavebrains said:
How big of a power supply am i looking at needing if i got the GTX 560. I have a 600w power supply already with just 1 HDD/CPU/1 GPU/RAMx3/Fanx2 on it.
Click to expand...

Ibought myself a 550 W PSU with an OC 560Ti and I am about to see in a minute if it craps or not.

edit : yup, it works.
Shambles said:
Go ahead and push that power button (Make sure the PSU is plugged into the wall :p)
Click to expand...

I lacked the courage to do it yesterday but today is a brand new day and it worked. You're awesome, thanks for everything, from advice to cheering :))
 
A

aznpxdd

Member
Just finished buying all the parts for my next build, check it out :D

i5 2500k (gonna overclock the shit out of this guy)
Biostar TP67B+ (got this for $95, so cheap for a P67 board!)
Sapphire HD5870 2GB Eyefinity 6 (got this on a sale for $175)
G Skill Ripjaw 2x4GB DDR3 1600
Corsair HX750
Asus Xonar DX
Corsair A70 Heatsink
Lite-On Bluray Drive
Corsair 600T Case
1x640GB WD Black, 1x1TB WD Black, 1x2TB WD Green

Can't wait to put this thing together!
 
K

Kenka

Member
aznpxdd said:
Just finished buying all the parts for my next build, check it out :D

i5 2500k (gonna overclock the shit out of this guy)
Biostar TP67B+ (got this for $95, so cheap for a P67 board!)
Sapphire HD5870 2GB Eyefinity 6
G Skill Ripjaw 2x4GB DDR3 1600
Corsair HX750
Asus Xonar DX
Corsair A70 Heatsink
Lite-On Bluray Drive
Corsair 600T Case
1x640GB WD Black, 1x1TBGB WD Black, 1x2TB WD Green

Can't wait to put this thing together!
Click to expand...

I am wondering if all P67 can overclock your k-labelled CPU.
 
C

Cyrus365

Neo Member
Cyrus365 said:
Hello All,

Need some serious advice, Been out of the game for a while.

Take a look at my build, any improvements or suggestions to get a better bang for my buck, or something that I should upgrade now. All suggestions greatly welcomed, haven't followed new comp trends for a while now, my last comp was amd 1900 like 5 years ago, still using it to this day. Not sure on the motherboard, but Asus is generally good quality or it when i was last researching specs and such. Not sure what the trends are, or what has changed.

Would like this comp to be as future proof as possible (I know that's impossible but would like to last me 3-4 years with minimal upgrading other than adding another graphic card or more ram)...

So on to the stuff:

Budget: $1200-1300 Pre Tax CDN


Main use: Gaming, some light photoshop, general usage (Word/Excel/PowerPoint, Web, 1080p playback).

Specific Games: SC II, Diablo III, and Skyrim, anything else I'd probably get on Consoles.

When will you build: There is no rush, I can still hold onto my AMD 1900+ for the time being, but it's starting to really show it's age when I have trouble watching youtube videos in HD (looks like a slideshow), don't game on it at all anymore. I'd build this computer in about a months time depending on local sales, and such, unless there something big coming this fall? If so what is it, and should I wait?

Will you be overclocking?: Yes

So onto the build:

Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB: $309.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57960&promoid=1280

ASUS P8P67 LE ATX LGA1155 P67 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI IDE USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard: $139.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59319&promoid=1280

G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory : $85.50
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57953&promoid=1280

EVGA GeForce GTS 450 Superclocked Fermi 882MHZ 1024MB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI PCI-E DX11 Video Card : $129.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=55460&promoid=1280

OCZ FATAL1TY Series 750W ATX 24PIN SLI Ready Modular Cables 135mm Red Fan 80+ Bronze Power Supply: $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=53331&promoid=1280

Antec Dark Fleet DF-85 Full Tower Gaming Case ATX 12 Drive Bay No PS Top USB3.0 USB Audio: $124.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=54030&promoid=1280

Intel X25-V 40GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD Solid State Disk Flash Drive Retail Box : $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=48984&promoid=1280

Western Digital WD20EARS Caviar Green 2TB SATA2 3Gbps 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM : $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=49591&promoid=1280

Samsung SH-S222A/BEBE 22X Dual Layer DVD Writer Black IDE OEM $18.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=39427&promoid=1280

PC Assembly and Testing With 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty (PRE-CONFIG WIN. OS If Purchased): $50.00
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=7842

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM: $99.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45271&promoid=1280

Total:$1197.41 before taxes, with 45 MIR available as well.

Not sure about the Win 7, so that can be lowered by 100. As I mayget it cheaper through school, for 70 bucks rather than 100 bucks.

Also part of the package this was offered, not sure on if it's a waste:

Coolit Systems Eco CPU Water Cooling System AUTO-REGULATED & Maintenance Free LGA1366/1156/1155/AM3: $49.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=50327

Or gettting a good fan? if so what fan should I get.

Got questions on the Motherboard, Graphic card (But like I said just want to get a decent/good graphic card, and upgrade later down the road. unless there is deal to be had now). Also not sure on the casing, looks ugly?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the suggestions everyone, made a couple changes:


Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB: $309.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57960&promoid=1280

ASUS P8P67 LE ATX LGA1155 P67 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI IDE USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard: $139.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59319&promoid=1280

Although not sure what the diff between this one above and this one:

ASUS P8P67 Pro ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2PCI Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard (P8P67 PRO ) $196.66
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=59317&vpn=P8P67 PRO <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS

or

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard $159.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59318&vpn=P8P67 <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1280

Besides the pricing, I notice one is LE, one is Pro, and the other? Standard? Is it worth the extra 60 bucks for PRO, would like possible future Crossfire/SLI.

G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory : $85.50
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57953&promoid=1280


OCZ FATAL1TY Series 750W ATX 24PIN SLI Ready Modular Cables 135mm Red Fan 80+ Bronze Power Supply: $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=53331&promoid=1280

Will this be enough power for now, and down the road for potential upgrades, or should I look into another type of power supply, and is it fairly quiet?

MSI GeForce GTX 460 Fermi Cyclone OC 725MHZ 1024MB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card $179.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=54624&promoid=1280

or should I go with:

ASUS Radeon HD 6850 DirectCU 790MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI DisplayPort HDMI PCI-E Video Card $164.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index....DC/2DIS/1GD5/V2&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1280

Not sure which of the mid-range cards is the better series GTA 460 or Radeon 6800+?

Western Digital WD20EARS Caviar Green 2TB SATA2 3Gbps 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM : $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=49591&promoid=1280

Samsung SH-S222A/BEBE 22X Dual Layer DVD Writer Black IDE OEM $18.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=39427&promoid=1280

PC Assembly and Testing With 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty (PRE-CONFIG WIN. OS If Purchased): $50.00
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=7842

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM: $99.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45271&promoid=1280

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 4 Heat Pipes, Copper Base (RR-B10-212P-GP) for Socket LGA1156/1366/775 & Socket AM3/AM2+/AM2 $24.99 (Should work for 1155 Chipset right?)
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_129&item_id=025125

Last but not least the casing: IS mid tower enough to do SLI/Crossfire in the future, is this a good case for the $150+ range, or something much better for quiet and cool temp. operation:

Antec Lanboy Air Modular High Airflow Mid Tower Gaming Case ATX 2X2.5 6X3.5 3X5.25 USB3.0 Blue $164.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=55853&promoid=1280

Total is: 1,232.49

Doesn't include taxes yet, and there about 70 to 80 dollars in mail in rebates total, however that'll be negated depending on the motherboard version that I talked above.

How does that look, may still tweak it abit, maybe adding a little more to the graphic card, don't really have an idea on the case, seems excessive to spend the same amount on the case as my graphic card lol.
 
K

Kenka

Member
Cyrus365 said:
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, made a couple changes:

ASUS P8P67 LE ATX LGA1155 P67 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI IDE USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard: $139.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59319&promoid=1280

Although not sure what the diff between this one above and this one:

ASUS P8P67 Pro ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2PCI Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard (P8P67 PRO ) $196.66
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=59317&vpn=P8P67 PRO <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS

or

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard $159.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59318&vpn=P8P67 <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1280


Besides the pricing, I notice one is LE, one is Pro, and the other? Standard? Is it worth the extra 60 bucks for PRO, would like possible future Crossfire/SLI.

How does that look, may still tweak it abit, maybe adding a little more to the graphic card, don't really have an idea on the case, seems excessive to spend the same amount on the case as my graphic card lol.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the P67 mobos are source of much headscratching.There is a good summary of their capablities one page earlier. I personally went the LE way knowing that SLI is not possible on it (Crossfire can be performed however).

edit : here it is :

EfDGG.jpg


as you can see, you say bye bye to two additional USB 3.0 ports and some power supply configuration that I don't grasp. All in all, if OC can be performed on all P67, just go the cheap route.



re-EDIT : I feel sad a bit, various reports around the web show that the LE boards are pretty difficult to overclock because they don't have the normal settings for voltage and stuff.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Kenka said:
I am wondering if all P67 can overclock your k-labelled CPU.
Click to expand...
Yes
Cyrus365 said:
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, made a couple changes:


Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB: $309.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57960&promoid=1280

ASUS P8P67 LE ATX LGA1155 P67 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI IDE USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard: $139.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59319&promoid=1280

Although not sure what the diff between this one above and this one:

ASUS P8P67 Pro ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2PCI Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard (P8P67 PRO ) $196.66
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=59317&vpn=P8P67 PRO <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS

or

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard $159.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=59318&vpn=P8P67 <REV 3.0>&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1280

Besides the pricing, I notice one is LE, one is Pro, and the other? Standard? Is it worth the extra 60 bucks for PRO, would like possible future Crossfire/SLI.

G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory : $85.50
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57953&promoid=1280


OCZ FATAL1TY Series 750W ATX 24PIN SLI Ready Modular Cables 135mm Red Fan 80+ Bronze Power Supply: $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=53331&promoid=1280

Will this be enough power for now, and down the road for potential upgrades, or should I look into another type of power supply, and is it fairly quiet?

MSI GeForce GTX 460 Fermi Cyclone OC 725MHZ 1024MB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card $179.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=54624&promoid=1280

or should I go with:

ASUS Radeon HD 6850 DirectCU 790MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI DisplayPort HDMI PCI-E Video Card $164.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index....DC/2DIS/1GD5/V2&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1280

Not sure which of the mid-range cards is the better series GTA 460 or Radeon 6800+?

Western Digital WD20EARS Caviar Green 2TB SATA2 3Gbps 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM : $79.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=49591&promoid=1280

Samsung SH-S222A/BEBE 22X Dual Layer DVD Writer Black IDE OEM $18.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=39427&promoid=1280

PC Assembly and Testing With 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty (PRE-CONFIG WIN. OS If Purchased): $50.00
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=7842

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM: $99.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45271&promoid=1280

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 4 Heat Pipes, Copper Base (RR-B10-212P-GP) for Socket LGA1156/1366/775 & Socket AM3/AM2+/AM2 $24.99 (Should work for 1155 Chipset right?)
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_129&item_id=025125

Last but not least the casing: IS mid tower enough to do SLI/Crossfire in the future, is this a good case for the $150+ range, or something much better for quiet and cool temp. operation:

Antec Lanboy Air Modular High Airflow Mid Tower Gaming Case ATX 2X2.5 6X3.5 3X5.25 USB3.0 Blue $164.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=55853&promoid=1280

Total is: 1,232.49

Doesn't include taxes yet, and there about 70 to 80 dollars in mail in rebates total, however that'll be negated depending on the motherboard version that I talked above.

How does that look, may still tweak it abit, maybe adding a little more to the graphic card, don't really have an idea on the case, seems excessive to spend the same amount on the case as my graphic card lol.
Click to expand...
EfDGG.jpg


+55 PRO and up is 8x/8x for xfire and sli. Otherwise its 16x and 4x which won't have much of an impact.
**Apparently there is more to the P67 chipset than just raw speed and such. A P67 16/4x will be just fine.
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2134562

+60 I'd get a 750W Corsair V2 since its build quality is much better, although it is a large step up in price. That OCZ is an ok PSU and will run just fine.

I'd get the 460 1GB at that price just because of the cooler if that is important to you. The 460 and 6850 are very close in performance and overclocking so it's not a big deal either way.

+20 Sub in a Black instead of Green for the HDD. Faster.

-
From here you are still in budget and it is up to you if you'd like to spend another $100 on the GPU. If I was spending that much I certainly would make that investment. A step up to a 6950 2GB or GTX 560 is very nice at this price. Normally I'd put it in, but you do some Photoshop and the CPU upgrade is for that. If it's light photoshop, then a 2500K should be plenty fine, but I don't know if you do any 5 minute renders or something.
Either the Gigabyte or XFX 6950 2GB if you go for it.
Kenka said:
Yeah, the P67 mobos are source of much headscratching.There is a good summary of their capablities one page earlier. I personally went the LE way knowing that SLI is not possible on it (Crossfire can be performed however).

edit : here it is :

as you can see, you say bye bye to two additional USB 3.0 ports and some power supply configuration that I don't grasp. All in all, if OC can be performed on all P67, just go the cheap route.
Click to expand...
4 vs 12 power reg is a huge step down. Those are what keep everything in check and are important for keeping an overclock stable and sometimes achieving a higher OC, at least in theory.
 
K

Kenka

Member
Hazaro said:
4 vs 12 power reg is a huge step down. Those are what keep everything in check and are important for keeping an overclock stable and sometimes achieving a higher OC, at least in theory.
Click to expand...

OK, so please tell me : did I just fuck up by saving on the mobo ? I've purchased a i3-2100 but intend to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge processor down the road (with unlocked multiplier this time of course). Have I just ruined this perspective by buying the LE ?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Kenka said:
OK, so please tell me : did I just fuck up by saving on the mobo ? I've purchased a i3-2100 but intend to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge processor down the road (with unlocked multiplier this time of course). Have I just ruined this perspective by buying the LE ?
Click to expand...
Well, yeah. The regs aren't that much of a deal breaker (Say, 4.2 instead of 4.4, just random numbers off the top of my head).

More importantly Ivy Bridge is a different socket (2011) that will be releasing at the end of this year, or 2012. It's not compatible.

Also, I did some reading and the LE can not overclock in BIOS (seriously what the fuck ASUS). However you can run the Windows OC utility and do it that way.
 
Q

Quicksilver4648

Member
Hazaro said:
+60 I'd get a 750W Corsair V2 since its build quality is much better, although it is a large step up in price. That OCZ is an ok PSU and will run just fine.
Click to expand...
Not if he acts quickly (and is from the US). The MSRP of the Corsair TX750 V2 is $140 but NewEgg typically has it for $120. However, there is currently a 48 hour sale that ends at midnight tonight (end of Wednesday west-coast time) where you can knock $8 off the price with the promo code "EMCKGHH37" bringing it to $112 and then get a $20 mail in rebate. The total price is now $92.

Edit: I see he is from Canada. Whoops. Well, this is still a good deal for anyone else interested.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Quicksilver4648 said:
Not if he acts quickly (and is from the US). The MSRP of the Corsair TX750 V2 is $140 but NewEgg typically has it for $120. However, there is currently a 48 hour sale that ends at midnight tonight (end of Wednesday west-coast time) where you can knock $8 off the price with the promo code "EMCKGHH37" bringing it to $112 and then get a $20 mail in rebate. The total price is now $92.
Click to expand...
Oh, right. I was actually going to post that special.
Honestly I'm tempted to pick one up, but that 10% sales taxes kills most of my impulse computer purchases.

Pretty sure he is in canada though, so the $20 USD rebate and $14 shipping get to him, plus probably going to arrive a bit later than the other parts.
 
K

Kenka

Member
Hazaro said:
Well, yeah. The regs aren't that much of a deal breaker (Say, 4.2 instead of 4.4, just random numbers off the top of my head).

More importantly Ivy Bridge is a different socket (2011) that will be releasing at the end of this year, or 2012. It's not compatible.

Also, I did some reading and the LE can not overclock in BIOS (seriously what the fuck ASUS). However you can run the Windows OC utility and do it that way.
Click to expand...

I won't have much regret then if Ivy Bridge procs are 2011-only. I just think it's kinda sad to mislead customers by not putting these restrictions in evidence. I only had a slim chance to see an Ivy processor working on my mobo but I chose to go cheap nonetheless with the i3-2100 and maybe have a chance to upgrade later.

Anyway, this is all old story now, time to lay in the couch and play some Tera, The Witcher 2, Skyrim, Dolphin, The Old Republic, and everything that will come out until 2015...


edit : well, recent developments tend to give me some hope actually
 
U

Unknown Soldier

Member
Kenka said:
I
Anyway, this is all old story now, time to lay in the couch and play some Tera, The Witcher 2, Skyrim, Dolphin, The Old Republic, and everything that will come out until 2015...
Click to expand...

I've recently begun thinking about moving my PC gaming over to the comfy couch but I cannot figure out HOW I can do it while using a mouse and keyboard. HOW do you lay in a couch and use a mouse and keyboard? Please provide pics and/or links to useful products! If you link me to a new couch which has a special table for a keyboard and mouse, you'd better also send me a check so I can buy one!

Yes, this is a serious question. All my comfy couch gaming thus far has been with a controller.
 
K

Kenka

Member
Unknown Soldier said:
I've recently begun thinking about moving my PC gaming over to the comfy couch but I cannot figure out HOW I can do it while using a mouse and keyboard. How do you lay in a couch and use a mouse and keyboard? Please provide pics if possible!

Yes, this is a serious question. All my comfy couch gaming thus far has been with a controller.
Click to expand...

Sorry mate, X360 controller all the way :(

I hope that The Witcher 2 and The Old Republic will support it. I have no hope for Tera.
 
B

Baller. PhD

Banned
Unknown Soldier said:
I've recently begun thinking about moving my PC gaming over to the comfy couch but I cannot figure out HOW I can do it while using a mouse and keyboard. HOW do you lay in a couch and use a mouse and keyboard? Please provide pics and/or links to useful products! If you link me to a new couch which has a special table for a keyboard and mouse, you'd better also send me a check so I can buy one!

Yes, this is a serious question. All my comfy couch gaming thus far has been with a controller.
Click to expand...
My local Target has a sick ass coffee table that "folds out," if you will. The tabletop is attached to hinges that stretch the thing over your lap while you sit on the couch. I think they made it for eating, but the first thing I thought of was KB/M. Shit was around $100, and actually worked quite well (it extends fairly far).

Besides something like that, I think people either:

1.) Use X360 controller
2.) Use those little laptop surface mat things
3.) Just wing it with the keyboard on their laps and the mouse flying free
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
scogoth said:
Any recommendations on wireless cards? So far have tried an Asus PCE-N13 and a D-Link DWA-556 with the Asus not getting a signal and the Dlink drivers crashing the computer. Wireless connection is very weak but my Macbook Pro and iPhone can get a signal. I'd prefer PCIe (I have no PCI slots) but if there is a USB adapter that has excellent reception I'm willing to try anything.
Click to expand...

WMP600N DUALBAND N PCI is what I used. Don't know what connector it uses. Dual band so 5GHz 'n' which I wanted as we have so many 2.4GHz wifi in the area.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Unknown Soldier said:
I've recently begun thinking about moving my PC gaming over to the comfy couch but I cannot figure out HOW I can do it while using a mouse and keyboard. HOW do you lay in a couch and use a mouse and keyboard? Please provide pics and/or links to useful products! If you link me to a new couch which has a special table for a keyboard and mouse, you'd better also send me a check so I can buy one!

Yes, this is a serious question. All my comfy couch gaming thus far has been with a controller.
Click to expand...


you don't lay, but my local PC World had a logitech 'lap board' which is basically a piece of plastic to put your laptop on, and a slide out mouse tray. That'd work ok for a compact keyboard (maybe you'd have to overhang the left edge a bit)

TBH, you just need a stiff rectangle. Plank of wood is enough. Store it under the sofa when not in use.


or, something like this http://dwell.co.uk/107106/Rise-coffee-table-white/ or this http://dwell.co.uk/104436/Laptop-coffee-table-walnut/
 
Z

zombieshavebrains

I have not used cocaine
Unknown Soldier said:
I've recently begun thinking about moving my PC gaming over to the comfy couch but I cannot figure out HOW I can do it while using a mouse and keyboard. HOW do you lay in a couch and use a mouse and keyboard? Please provide pics and/or links to useful products! If you link me to a new couch which has a special table for a keyboard and mouse, you'd better also send me a check so I can buy one!

Yes, this is a serious question. All my comfy couch gaming thus far has been with a controller.
Click to expand...

Steam is coming out with a big tv mode where you can navigate steam through a controller instead of only with kb/m.
 
C

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
zombieshavebrains said:
Steam is coming out with a big tv mode where you can navigate steam through a controller instead of only with kb/m.
Click to expand...

omg? Is this for real?
 
V

verbum

Member
scogoth said:
Any recommendations on wireless cards? So far have tried an Asus PCE-N13 and a D-Link DWA-556 with the Asus not getting a signal and the Dlink drivers crashing the computer. Wireless connection is very weak but my Macbook Pro and iPhone can get a signal. I'd prefer PCIe (I have no PCI slots) but if there is a USB adapter that has excellent reception I'm willing to try anything.
Click to expand...

I use this USB N adapter with Win7 64bit. Works very well for me. Do not use the drivers on the CD. After you get it, look on it and see what version you have, v1000 or v2000. Download the drivers off the Belkin site for your OS. $30. I like it because I can just switch it from one computer to another. And it gets 300 mps speed within my network.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Wireless-802-11n-Adapter-Black/dp/B001CF2TYC/ref=sr_1_30?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1300874639&sr=1-30
 
S

seeds19

Banned
dsc01080.jpg


Mi new rig:
AMD PHENOM X6 1090T
ASUS CROSSHAIR IV FORMULA
MSI GTX 560 TWIN FROZER II
4GB MUSHKIN SILVERLINE DDR3 1333
HDD SEAGATE 500GB
HDD SAMSUNG 750 GB
NOX APEX 600 W MODULAR
NZXT PHANTOM WHITE RED LIMITED

I'm happy with it, its worth the money expend extra cash to buy a SSD? only use this pc for gaming, and maybe photoshop (noob use)
 
S

StriKeVillain

Banned
Built the majority of my new PC last night. Thing is i didn't read my HDD description thoroughly because it did not come with a SATA cable. Anyone know a B&M store I can run to and pick one up? Would Radioshack have one?
 
I

InertiaXr

Member
striKeVillain! said:
Built the majority of my new PC last night. Thing is i didn't read my HDD description thoroughly because it did not come with a SATA cable. Anyone know a B&M store I can run to and pick one up? Would Radioshack have one?
Click to expand...

Your mobo should of come with a couple.
 
S

Shadowhaxor

Member
InertiaXr said:
Well if your needing another one, if your anywhere near a Microcenter they will definitely have one. Otherwise, a B&M store, i dunno man. Best Buy's website doesn't show anything, and Radioshack has them 'web only'.
Click to expand...

Bestbuy has em, but you're gonna pay for em... alot. Radio Shack usually has em as well, but its hit or miss as each store does their own thing.

Like it was already said, if you have a Microcenter, Compusa or even a Walmart, check it out. Yes, Walmart has saved my ass a couple times in the past year when I was to lazy to hike it down to Microcenter or Compusa.
 
S

Shambles

Member
Hazaro said:
Well, yeah. The regs aren't that much of a deal breaker (Say, 4.2 instead of 4.4, just random numbers off the top of my head).

More importantly Ivy Bridge is a different socket (2011) that will be releasing at the end of this year, or 2012. It's not compatible.

Also, I did some reading and the LE can not overclock in BIOS (seriously what the fuck ASUS). However you can run the Windows OC utility and do it that way.
Click to expand...

"In summary, Ivy Bridge will essentially be an updated Sandy Bridge processor that uses the same LGA 1155 socket whereas LGA 2011 is a new socket meant for the enthusiast and server market that will be supporting future Intel processors." via geek gold or
http://www.fudzilla.com/processors/item/21765-ivy-bridge-22nm-works-with-h67-and-p67

That's some real shit that they're selling a P67 with no voltage adjustment in the BIOS. Either you can return the motherboard and swap it out for someone that isn't retarded or down the road when you upgrade you can change the voltage with the AI Suite II from within Windows.
 
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