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Best CRT TV for old school systems...?

Think it is worth picking up this 32" Sony wega for $25?

ifGNlyD8h4JIQ.jpg


There is a weird vertical line showing up in my 27" toshiba tube

Yes if you can carry it or have people /person to help you. Most definitely.
 
So go with the 32" SD Trinitron over the 34" HD one? This will be 99% used for Composite and S-video outputted stuff like NES, SNES, N64 and Genesis.
 
Kind of late to this thread but...

For the best Standard Def experience, I would recommend hunting down a 2nd hand 20" - 27" Sony PVM. They take just about any kind of input you can throw at them and are packed with features like manual degauss (great for TATE) and auto color correction. You simply won't find a better SD capable CRT.

A nice alternative is just about anything from the Trinitron lineup that ran from about 1996 to 2000. These sets have incredible image clarity through S-Video. They also came before Sony started throwing post-process heavy internals into the WEGAs, so they generally last longer.

Stay away from 20" WEGAs. Most of the ones I come across suffer from crushed blacks. Not even tweaking the service menu fixes the problem.
 
Paging RGB people.

I've actually never used RGB with consoles. I figure that I might as well start, and go the SCART RGB to Component route that some in this thread are using. Thing is, the only converters I see are these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-R...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3362ac0577

So I'd need cables with audio leads with this thing, right? Are there any better converters out there I can get without hassle?

Thing is, most SCART cables I've come across don't have separate audio lead output, so you'll either need a SCART switchbox that will output audio (what I use for my setup, goes right into my receiver) or you're gonna be modding some cables.

Personally, I'd probably lean more towards spending a couple extra bucks for a proper upscaler like an XRGB unit that would work for newer monitors if you feel that's the best route for you, but there's so many low resolution or multi-sync monitors out there (yes, even in the US) that I would just get a CRT. It's worth it. :)
 
Kind of late to this thread but...

For the best Standard Def experience, I would recommend hunting down a 2nd hand 20" - 27" Sony PVM. They take just about any kind of input you can throw at them and are packed with features like manual degauss (great for TATE) and auto color correction. You simply won't find a better SD capable CRT.

A nice alternative is just about anything from the Trinitron lineup that ran from about 1996 to 2000. These sets have incredible image clarity through S-Video. They also came before Sony started throwing post-process heavy internals into the WEGAs, so they generally last longer.

Stay away from 20" WEGAs. Most of the ones I come across suffer from crushed blacks. Not even tweaking the service menu fixes the problem.
This cannot be emphasized enough for prospective CRT buyers. The later WEGAs have an extremely short functional lifespan compared to a conventional CRT due to how much more complex they are.
 
If your TV has a crap scaler buy an RGB to VGA scaler, can't go wrong. I have one but don't use it as my plasma displays my SFC in RGB perfectly, it's great for my PJ.

I'm selling it if there's any interest in the UK, built by MMMonkey from ntsc.co.uk
 
I'm using a 20" RCA TV with S-video on most of my older consoles. Bought a 27" Toshiba with component but no 480P support. I find that I enjoy the old flat screen tube TV screens the most. Can't settle for less than S-Video though unless it is the NES or Genesis.
 
Search online if the TV works with light gun. Not every CRT model works with the NES or Master System light gun. And that is a thing you only can play with old TVs.
 
Thing is, most SCART cables I've come across don't have separate audio lead output, so you'll either need a SCART switchbox that will output audio (what I use for my setup, goes right into my receiver) or you're gonna be modding some cables.

Personally, I'd probably lean more towards spending a couple extra bucks for a proper upscaler like an XRGB unit that would work for newer monitors if you feel that's the best route for you, but there's so many low resolution or multi-sync monitors out there (yes, even in the US) that I would just get a CRT. It's worth it. :)

I'm planning on using a CRT SDTV, and yeah, it's sounding like I'll need a SCART switchbox. For now, though, with my Genesis, I'm fine using headphones.
 
same issue present in the toshiba tubes from the 2000's too?
I'm not very familiar with 2ks Toshibas. Just be wary of newer models packed with post processing features and you should be alright. Google the model number. Stay away if you get pages of hits pointing to detailed repair guides.
 
Went to go check out the 32" sony I mentioned earlier. Sadly the front plastic was all scratched up.

I guess I will keep looking...
 
i love my current beast of a CRT (which I think I've previously mentioned in this thread) however, it's not component. what's the best 480p capable CRT to keep an eye out for? my gamecube is modded to enable component output even on games that don't support it (like Killer 7 for example). not that i'm in the market for a replacement, but just so i know.
 
i love my current beast of a CRT (which I think I've previously mentioned in this thread) however, it's not component. what's the best 480p capable CRT to keep an eye out for? my gamecube is modded to enable component output even on games that don't support it (like Killer 7 for example). not that i'm in the market for a replacement, but just so i know.

Most Sony and Toshiba TVs made after 2000 should have component, especially the Sony Wegas
 
i love my current beast of a CRT (which I think I've previously mentioned in this thread) however, it's not component. what's the best 480p capable CRT to keep an eye out for? my gamecube is modded to enable component output even on games that don't support it (like Killer 7 for example). not that i'm in the market for a replacement, but just so i know.

One thing to watch out for is that component plugs on a CRT doesn't mean that it has progressive scan. I have a 19" CRT that has component (and s-video) inputs, and a nice flat screen, but doesn't work in progressive scan... still, it's nice for anything else.
 
One thing to watch out for is that component plugs on a CRT doesn't mean that it has progressive scan. I have a 19" CRT that has component (and s-video) inputs, and a nice flat screen, but doesn't work in progressive scan... still, it's nice for anything else.

Good call.

Anyone use one of the sony 34" HD tubes for SNES and NES gaming?
 
I'm planning on using a CRT SDTV, and yeah, it's sounding like I'll need a SCART switchbox. For now, though, with my Genesis, I'm fine using headphones.

Plus it makes switching between consoles/supergun so easy. I imported an older SCART Commander-type unit from Keene Electronics over 10 years ago when I made the switch over to RGB. Still works flawlessly. Mine only has three SCART inputs and no remote, so I wouldn't mind getting one of their newer models:

http://www.keene.co.uk/electronics/product.php?mycat=10_404_513

You'll just have to get the right US style dc plug to power the switchbox, but that's an easy cable to find. I'd highly recommend their products for your setup.

To contribute to the Wega discussion, it's not a bad TV, but it's heavy as hell and lacking in useful inputs. It's a consumer CRT. You're better off getting one of Sony's professional monitors if you really want something to play with. I'm considering picking up another Sony xVM type monitor, just to dedicate it for vert...
 
Good luck moving that Sony Wega (or Vega, w/e) set.

If anybody has ever moved one before... jaysus creesto.

I moved a 36" Wega up 3 flights of steps into my step sister's apartment, and then brought it back down again when they moved

And her fat ass fiancé gave me the heavy end both times.

I informed them that it would be the last time i ever move that TV.

It had to be pushing at least 200lbs, if not more. It's like carrying a grown ass man up 3 flights of stairs and back down again, except you can bend a grown ass man in half and get some leverage on your shoulders. Not so with that TV.

I've got a 27" Trinitron Wega bought in 2003 that i use for my classic gaming systems.
 
Plus it makes switching between consoles/supergun so easy. I imported an older SCART Commander-type unit from Keene Electronics over 10 years ago when I made the switch over to RGB. Still works flawlessly. Mine only has three SCART inputs and no remote, so I wouldn't mind getting one of their newer models:

http://www.keene.co.uk/electronics/product.php?mycat=10_404_513

You'll just have to get the right US style dc plug to power the switchbox, but that's an easy cable to find. I'd highly recommend their products for your setup.

Awesome, thanks for the pointer.

Unfortunately, I got my Genesis RGB cable in the mail today and trying it with that transcoder I posted above, I'm getting a greenish tint to everything. No amount of cable-wiggling seems to work, the component cables work fine elsewhere, and the Genesis color still looks fine coming from composite, so I'm guessing it's the transcoder.
 
I have the 34XS955 which has the super fine pitch tube and it has been amazing for PS2/GC/Wii gaming. It was one of the last SFP TVs sony made. It is a widescreen TV. Havent tried HD gaming on it yet.
 
Think it is worth picking up this 32" Sony wega for $25?

ifGNlyD8h4JIQ.jpg
If you haven't already, do it. I've been using that exact same TV for two years and it's great.

I have been keeping an eye out for a slight upgrade from that one shown above and I finally got it. This is, in my opinion, the best standard def set you can get:


It's the Sony KV-27FV310. Notable features:
- Two component, two s-video, two composite.
- Internal subwoofer that really does put out low, loud bass.
- 3D digital comb filter for your composite systems.
- High voltage power regulator, so the white areas of your screen don't "bloom". This is the only consumer TV I have seen with this.

It's the ideal non-HD CRT. Comes in sizes up to 36" for you musclemen who can carry 225lbs.
 
Not sure, never had a standard Wega.

Whole threads on it here.



The HD versions have DRC gadgetry built in and probably personal preference if you like how it turns out.
I actually own both an HD and SD Sony. For retro gaming, SD is the ONLY way to go. Those HD sets simply don't handle 240p content well enough to stand as a good replacement. The DRC features actually cause the pixels to blur together in motion. While scrolling 240p looks as if it is using some sort of 2XSAI filter while a static image is quite pixelated. It's just not a good solution.
 
I actually own both an HD and SD Sony. For retro gaming, SD is the ONLY way to go. Those HD sets simply don't handle 240p content well enough to stand as a good replacement. The DRC features actually cause the pixels to blur together in motion. While scrolling 240p looks as if it is using some sort of 2XSAI filter while a static image is quite pixelated. It's just not a good solution.

Perfect, thanks for the comparison. Looks like I have found a great looking 32FS100 with the stand for $60. I think I will bite. I would rather pay a little more for a TV that is in great shape.
 
Like others said, the only REAL way to go for SD consoles would be a '90s full-analog crt, connected to the consoles via scart-rgb. You have the prove it's full-analog if, when fed in with rgb signal, you can't vary the color saturation on the picture. Late '90s and 2000s crts are already digital tvs: they digitize the picture giving you "stronger" image and more control over it (temperature, color, sharpness like today's tvs) but it also gets badly worse due to noise and dithering. Colors are crushed and edges aren't sharp anymore. I still have my 4:3 21" Philips from 1995 that blows away anything other for old consoles (including my other 29" Sony Wega).
 
My neighbor is selling me a Sony 19" Triniton Monitor that she took from her old job for $20. Is this a good deal and would it be easy to connect my systems?


5ABFAAC5-2792-4414-AD74-952B005638A5-1473-000002A7D3E8C593.jpg
 
My neighbor is selling me a Sony 19" Triniton Monitor that she took from her old job for $20. Is this a good deal and would it be easy to connect my systems?


5ABFAAC5-2792-4414-AD74-952B005638A5-1473-000002A7D3E8C593.jpg

Monitors don't always have right inputs so you need to check that out.

Also $20 is probably ok for a 19" screen, but i wouldn't personally pay that much because I've seen much better and bigger TVs on my local Craigslist for $30-$50. He'll ive even seen some people put up ads that say "free - just come get this beast out of my house"
 
Probably the best is a 32-inch widescreen Panasonic TAU CRT.
Could do 480p/1080i (not sure about 720p). And there were a handful of N64 games that actually supported 16:9.
 
My neighbor is selling me a Sony 19" Triniton Monitor that she took from her old job for $20. Is this a good deal and would it be easy to connect my systems?


5ABFAAC5-2792-4414-AD74-952B005638A5-1473-000002A7D3E8C593.jpg

That looks like a Sony PVM which are professional studio monitors, which are superb for old school gaming since they can take pure RGB signals. Just make sure what kind of inputs are on the back, usually they have S-Video, SCART and Component through BNC instead of RCA jacks. As long as you can procure those leads for your consoles I would go for it, picture quality on those monitors is excellent and the price isn´t really bad, in my area those go for about $100-200 USD.
 
My neighbor is selling me a Sony 19" Triniton Monitor that she took from her old job for $20. Is this a good deal and would it be easy to connect my systems?


5ABFAAC5-2792-4414-AD74-952B005638A5-1473-000002A7D3E8C593.jpg
That looks like a Sony PVM monitor would be a reference grade studio display that would be absolutely incredible for RGB gaming. Depending on the model, you may have to jump through a few hoops to get everything hooked up, but it would be well worth it.

Those displays are worth a lot more than $20. Buy that shit!
 
I actually own both an HD and SD Sony. For retro gaming, SD is the ONLY way to go. Those HD sets simply don't handle 240p content well enough to stand as a good replacement. The DRC features actually cause the pixels to blur together in motion. While scrolling 240p looks as if it is using some sort of 2XSAI filter while a static image is quite pixelated. It's just not a good solution.

cant you turn that shit of in the service menu though? you could with some pal philips widecreens. Because the hd panels probably have better tubes, but shittier digital software. And its the software that causes it.

In europe, instead getting 480p/1080i we got 100hz natural motion shit. Which is horrible. And completely unusable for anything. Pretty much all high end widescreen tvs had these digital post processing. And even if you turn it off in the normal menu, its still there. And its probably the same with the hd-crt in the states.

so when i picked up my own high end widescreen 100hz philips (cant remember the model) 5-6 years ago, i just entered the service menu and reverted the entire setting from high end 100hz to budget 50hz or equivalent.. And bam perfect analogue 50hz picture. Crystal clear without any digital after noise.

If you could do this on sony us high end hd 4:3, you will probably get the best crt picture imaginable.
 
cant you turn that shit of in the service menu though? you could with some pal philips widecreens. Because the hd panels probably have better tubes, but shittier digital software. And its the software that causes it.

In europe, instead getting 480p/1080i we got 100hz natural motion shit. Which is horrible. And completely unusable for anything. Pretty much all high end widescreen tvs had these digital post processing. And even if you turn it off in the normal menu, its still there. And its probably the same with the hd-crt in the states.

so when i picked up my own high end widescreen 100hz philips (cant remember the model) 5-6 years ago, i just entered the service menu and reverted the entire setting from high end 100hz to budget 50hz or equivalent.. And bam perfect analogue 50hz picture. Crystal clear without any digital after noise.

If you could do this on sony us high end hd 4:3, you will probably get the best crt picture imaginable.
Not that I'm aware of. I've been through the service mode and managed to improve some aspects of the image, but was unable to completely solve the problems.

Keep in mind, as this is a progressive set the display must ALWAYS perform de-interlacing of some sort. You can't natively display a 15 khz 240p image on such a display as it is sent from a retro console.

The scanlines inherent in a standard definition display are actually beneficial to overall picture quality for 240p material, I feel. Even if one eliminates any processing issues on an HD set it won't display the image in quite the same way.

Though, I suspect using something like an XRGB with scanlines enabled outputting in 480p on such a display could produce really nice results. You're still basically emulating the look of an SDTV, though, so it's not worth it.

There's just no reason to go for an HD CRT if you're going to be playing retro systems that output 240p.
 
Is there a big difference between these two tvs? I am seeing a ton of the older model (top picture)

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Would you just get the top one if it is a lot easier to find?
 
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