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Getting rid of NAT Type 3

My WIFI connection is perfectly fine on my PS4 even when I am one floor up from where the router is placed.

There's a difference in buying a proper router for around 70 bucks and having your standard ISP one, because the one's you get from your ISP are always abysmal.

So do not say that WIFI is a no-go when you are still using that crappy router. Invest some money and buy a proper one.

Never buy a Linksys, Belkin or Sitecom, though.
 
Stantron said:
My xbone tells me my NAT is open, but in-game lobby of cod ghosts tells me I'm moderate, even if my xbox is set with static IP and DMZ mode on the router. I assume I've got the double NAT thing going on as well.

If I plug my PC directly into my modem like you mention, and run cmd > ipconfig, I get an IP that starts with 192 (LAN IP?). If I go to whatismyip.com, it tells me another IP address which starts with 50 (WAN IP?) So I'm good to let the modem handle all routing, DHCP and NAT duties, right?

Your probably familiar with DD-WRT. I'm running the custom (Kong 22000++) firmware on an Asus RT-N16 router. If I set this up as an access point, will I still be able to use any of the DD-WRT features of the router? There is a bandwidth limiting for specific MAC addresses feature in QoS that I really want to keep working, which is not in the modem's firmware.

I have an option to enable uPnP in both my router and modem. If I don't do the access point thing, should I enable it in just one or both? What about if the router is acting as the access point? I still do this if I'm port forwarding as well?

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions. I get really bad laggy connections in some games, so I'm hoping I can resolve them.
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You are under the exact scenario I'm describing. Set you wrt box to be an access point.

You won't be able to use the majority of the features while it is an access point mode because a lot of them occur during the actual routing phase. If you or your ISP can set the modem to bridge mode then you can utilize all the features of your wrt router.

UPnP only makes sense on the device handling routing/NAT.
 
SpinDasher said:
Eh it's an old piece of shit Belkin. It just feels like cheap plastic when you pick it up. The post that are saying we should upgrade our router are right.
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Having a good router is important too. If you're using a router in access point mode you'll only be limited by the speed of wifi in general. If it is acting as a router then you need one that can translate the data as fast or faster than your connection with your ISP. This applies to wifi AND wired connections. It's entirely possible to have a 50/5 connection but only see 6/1 or similar during a speed test even when wired to the router. If you get very different speed test results (while wired) when connected to the ISP modem vs your router that's a clear indication your router sucks.
 
I was plagued by that NAT 3 shit forever. It prevented me from chatting on Warframe and caused some match making issues. I tried DMZ and opening ports and could not get it to work. It seems my ultimate issue was having a separate modem (forgot which type) and wireless router (belkin). I could not get them to bridge myself or through my ISP.

I fixed the issue by purchasing a all in one wireless modem that was authorized by my ISP and boom NAT 2. I recently moved and got ATT U-Verse and had the modem installed in my entertainment center. I am hardwired into it now and get faster speeds but it is still NAT 2 which is just fine.

Good Luck
 
LumpOfCole said:
Having a good router seems to be very underrated. I paid a fair amount for my AirPort Extreme, but the combined speed, stability, and range on it are so good that the difference between using it and the shitty 'router' that came included inside the ISP's mandatory cable modem was really night and day.
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mug said:
Buy a better router.
Click to expand...

pretty much this


i kept having problems while playing online, streaming movies, had to reset quite often but one day i say fuck it and dumped my love for shitty cheap routers and went high end at that time and bought an ac66u from asus (even if i dont have the bandwidth lol)

that pretty much just resolved all the problems i ever had, now if i could change the shitty box from my internet provider....
 
John Caboose said:
It is indeed. I upgraded my D-Link DIR-655 that I've had for years and years and the network/router feels a lot snappier with the D-Link DIR-868L. Finally I have gigabit internet and now I can actually get those speeds with the router plugged in. Before that it was bottlenecking me at around 150-300Mbit/s but now I get more or less the full speed I would get if I connected the computer directly to my wall outlet.

3707921800.png


TLDR Upgrade to a good quality router to make your network awesome.
Click to expand...


Wtf! Fuck you UK and your mostly shitty speeds
 
John Caboose said:
It is indeed. I upgraded my D-Link DIR-655 that I've had for years and years and the network/router feels a lot snappier with the D-Link DIR-868L. Finally I have gigabit internet and now I can actually get those speeds with the router plugged in. Before that it was bottlenecking me at around 150-300Mbit/s but now I get more or less the full speed I would get if I connected the computer directly to my wall outlet.

3707921800.png


TLDR Upgrade to a good quality router to make your network awesome.
Click to expand...
3708598499.png



emot-smithicide.gif
 
Today, most ISP gives / rents you a shitty modem / router combo device. If their marketing says wifi anywhere, then, you know you have to disable it's router feature (Enable bridge mode), or else, it's going to cause major issue with your own router.

And, I wouldn't use DMZ. It works in most cases, but not all router handles it correctly. Many people assume incorrectly if a device is set to DMZ it totally bypass the router. Nope. Their router still handles some routing. Also, as mention already, you are limited mostly to one device.

The best option is to get your own ISP recommended modem. The ones you buy are generally better than from your ISP and usually pays your itself after a year since you aren't paying a modem rental fee. In addition to getting your own modem, buy your own router. I know people want to go cheap with routers, but the $150-200 routers perform much better and have way less issues. With this combo, I never had any issue gaming on wired / wireless and my speeds are max from ISP.
 
John Caboose said:
It is indeed. I upgraded my D-Link DIR-655 that I've had for years and years and the network/router feels a lot snappier with the D-Link DIR-868L. Finally I have gigabit internet and now I can actually get those speeds with the router plugged in. Before that it was bottlenecking me at around 150-300Mbit/s but now I get more or less the full speed I would get if I connected the computer directly to my wall outlet.

3707921800.png


TLDR Upgrade to a good quality router to make your network awesome.
Click to expand...

sooo jelly, i wont probably be alive by the time 100mbps internet hits my country
 
Wow i remember i thought i was great 200Mb not too long ago, everyone was amazed!

now the dreams over, fuck you google and your insanely good Internet.

Edit:
Dash Kappei said:
Subbing to read later, but I'd like to get rid of NAT 2, hopefully not hijacking the thread
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Whats wrong with Nat Type 2?
its 3 the one you dont want 1 or 2 is perfect for online gaming
 
Latvian Hitman said:
The only way to get to NAT Type 1 on a PS3/PS4 is to disconnect your router and plug directly into your modem. Not really worth it. Type 2 is perfectly fine.
Click to expand...
That's not possible. The only way to get NAT1 is to put the modem in bridge mode, which requires another device connected to it to perform the authentication with the ISP ("dialing"). That device will be directly connected to the internet and will have a public IP. Only computers and routers can control a bridge modem, devices like consoles don't have such functionality (there's nowhere to put your ISP login and password, for example).
 
M3d10n said:
That's not possible. The only way to get NAT1 is to put the modem in bridge mode, which requires another device connected to it to perform the authentication with the ISP ("dialing"). That device will be directly connected to the internet and will have a public IP. Only computers and routers can control a bridge modem, devices like consoles don't have such functionality.
Click to expand...

Could have sworn I had done it a few years ago just for grins, but you obviously know more on this subject than I do, so I defer to you!
 
M3d10n said:
That's not possible. The only way to get NAT1 is to put the modem in bridge mode, which requires another device connected to it to perform the authentication with the ISP ("dialing"). That device will be directly connected to the internet and will have a public IP. Only computers and routers can control a bridge modem, devices like consoles don't have such functionality (there's nowhere to put your ISP login and password, for example).
Click to expand...

Cable ISP don't require login and/or password. So, yeah, you can plug in directly into the modem. DSL does though.
 
bigdaddygamebot said:
There's a tonne of information out there regarding why. I understand why it exists.

I still think it's fucking idiotic that we're dealing with it still.
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It exist because ISP don't want to provide you with more than one IP at a time = one device can connect at a time. If you want more IPs, they will charge you more. Thus, the good cheap option to connect >1 device at a time with 1 IP is NAT. And, that's not gong to change with IPv6.
 
knitoe said:
It exist because ISP don't want to provide you with more than one IP at a time = one device can connect at a time. If you want more IPs, they will charge you more. Thus, the good cheap option to connect >1 device at a time with 1 IP is NAT. And, that's not gong to change with IPv6.
Click to expand...

My provider gives me 18,446,744,073,709,551,616 IPv6 addresses (/64) for free...
 
This isn't totally related, but I've been trying to fuck around with my router a lot this last year because it kept jumping around from open to moderate, and generally wasn't getting a good connection. I just today just got a 50ft ethernet cord and wired it under my house which is all fine and good but it's also the last spot on my router(which is the ASUS RT-AC66U), and I mainly want to hook it up to the Wii U, PS4, and XB1. Is a network switch okay for gaming? Otherwise I'm gonna be screwing around with wires a lot.
 
Yeah, last night I just plugged it in directly into the modem when everyone else went to bed.

Absolutely nothing was working for me.

Had Nat Type 1.
 
What I did was use a Buffalo Wireless Gaming Router.
If that didn't work, I selected the port forwarding to the essentials.

If none of those worked, DMZ the thing.
 
Go to your router's interface and check the IP address the modem is giving it. Browse to ipchicken.com and compare the IP you get there. If it's the same with the one in the router, the problem is your router. If it's not, then it can be a problem on how your modem is set up or it can also be the ISP itself.

I recommend setting the modem to bridged mode first. What I do is enable UPnP for both the router and the device.
 
My internet goes wall -> modem -> Ethernet switch -> router and all my gaming devices go straight into the switch. (Except my PS4, for whatever reason it won't connect to the internet with my setup) but everything else (ps3 Xbox 360 Xbox one) are all open Nat types with that setup.
 
Papercuts said:
This isn't totally related, but I've been trying to fuck around with my router a lot this last year because it kept jumping around from open to moderate, and generally wasn't getting a good connection. I just today just got a 50ft ethernet cord and wired it under my house which is all fine and good but it's also the last spot on my router(which is the ASUS RT-AC66U), and I mainly want to hook it up to the Wii U, PS4, and XB1. Is a network switch okay for gaming? Otherwise I'm gonna be screwing around with wires a lot.
Click to expand...
Yes. I am running the same setup, router > wired > switch > wired to multiple devices.

Noobcraft said:
My internet goes wall -> modem -> Ethernet switch -> router and all my gaming devices go straight into the switch. (Except my PS4, for whatever reason it won't connect to the internet with my setup) but everything else (ps3 Xbox 360 Xbox one) are all open Nat types with that setup.
Click to expand...
Is your modem just a modem or is it a combo device (has WiFi)? Can all your devices connected to the switch go online at the same time?
 
nasanu said:
And you know this how? Magical powers?

Perhaps in his current firmware upnp is broken? Perhaps in his current firmware there is no DMZ, or broken port forwarding? Or any number of other things?

Its always good to be on current firmware.
Click to expand...

I know this because firmware is software updates. His router-firewall is a hardware/software issue. He can upgrade his firmware all he wants, but the NAT-table would still be the same. I seriously doubt there is NAT-less routers out there now a days if ever.
 
I'm trapped with a Verizon router that I hate. I tried to use my own once but I ran into some double NAT crap and gave up.

One day things'll be different...
 
Waylon Drums said:
I'm trapped with a Verizon router that I hate. I tried to use my own once but I ran into some double NAT crap and gave up.

One day things'll be different...
Click to expand...

You need to tell verizon to put their router into bridge mode. In essence, disabling the router feature. Then, you can use your own router.
 
TerryWogan said:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HomePlug

Uses the power cables in your home. Far more solid connection than WiFi.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, IP over power won't work in all houses.
I initially used them, but found in this house (moderately new US home), the connection quality is frankly unusable. Massive spiking pings and packet loss (sometimes connection would drop for 10+ seconds).

Additionally, I've found that every power adapter I've used (4 different ones in the UK and now the US) has emitted a really annoying high pitch whine.

I'm now using IP over coax (as the house is wired for cable to every room) and it's absolutely rock solid. *Highly* recommended.
 
Live Free or Die said:
First, follow this guide to setup a static IP for your PS4 http://portforward.com/networking/static-ip-ps4/ Then, select your router brand/model here http://portforward.com/english/route...outerindex.htm then after that click on Playstation Network and follow the guide.
Click to expand...
This is the best suggestion. PortForward is a pretty good site. I think I used it to fix this issue on my PS3.

I suggest you don't turn on DMZ. There's no reason it should be on, even for a home console.
 
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