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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Hey guys, cross post since this thread may help me out, but I posed a question in a thread:

Hi, I searched and I did find a related topic, but wanted clarification since, as the topic points out, it can vary from TV to TV, and the topic I found was more general "it's theoretically possible".

I'm getting a Samsung MU9000, 55", and have plans on hooking up my Wii U to it. Ideally, I'd be able to set the Wii U to 720p for the games that render 720p (Bayonetta, W101, etc), and then have it scale up 3x with no processing, but I can't seem to find an actual answer on this.

I was wondering if any owners of this TV could chime in?

EDIT: To clarify, this post explains what I'm asking very well, and I'm wondering which result I would get:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=216576445&postcount=41

Does anyone have any insight on this?
 
Don't use dynamic contrast. Turn it off and within a hour you will be used to it. HDR will make colours looks more natural and most are not used to that.

This. I learned my lesson, it absolutely wrecks what HDR is all about.

I did have to turn up Color a bit but that's far less a drastic measure than utilizing DC. As long as Contrast is 100 you shouldn't need DC, then adjust the backlight to your room's needs.
 
Question.

How do you guys handle subtitles, they light up darker scenes when they show up, is it because I have smart LED on?

I can watch without subtitles but I like having them on.
 
Question.

How do you guys handle subtitles, they light up darker scenes when they show up, is it because I have smart LED on?

I can watch without subtitles but I like having them on.

We might be able to lessen it by changing settings, but I'm tired of changing settings for every content scenario. This and 8bit source material gradients are what bother me the most with this panel after coming from a Panasonic Plasma. I've just started to accept the flaws of LCD technology.
 
Question.

How do you guys handle subtitles, they light up darker scenes when they show up, is it because I have smart LED on?

I can watch without subtitles but I like having them on.

If you use Netflix, you can change the subs to transparent. They'll be somewhat grayish and mostly eliminate the issue.
 
We might be able to lessen it by changing settings, but I'm tired of changing settings for every content scenario. This and 8bit source material gradients are what bother me the most with this panel after coming from a Panasonic Plasma. I've just started to accept the flaws of LCD technology.

Agreed.

If you use Netflix, you can change the subs to transparent. They'll be somewhat grayish and mostly eliminate the issue.

Ok, thanks, on my UHD player I'll have to watch without subtitles I guess :p
 
Question.

How do you guys handle subtitles, they light up darker scenes when they show up, is it because I have smart LED on?

I can watch without subtitles but I like having them on.

Yep, that's Smart LED in action. It will also make whites gray in certain scenes. I turned off Smart LED because of these issues.
 
If I buy a 4K Blu Ray right now, and connect the PS4 Pro > Blu Ray (w/ surround system) > TV with HDMIs (2.0), I will still be able to get 4K and HDR? Or does the Blu Ray have to be HDR compatible and I will have to connect the PS4 directly to the TV?
 
If it's greyed out it'll be because YUV is being used to display instead of RGB, so it doesn't use this. YUV is used in HDR but you can also set it to use in non-HDR too.

I believe I do use YUV. If that's the case it doesn't matter what the PS4 is set to correct? Is YUV better than RGB on this set?
 
Yep, that's Smart LED in action. It will also make whites gray in certain scenes. I turned off Smart LED because of these issues.
With Smart LED off, don't you get issues when content transitions to something all black? My ks9000's screen sort of blinks before the blacks turn grayish and it looks awful

I believe I do use YUV. If that's the case it doesn't matter what the PS4 is set to correct? Is YUV better than RGB on this set?
I once read a post here from someone saying that the PS4 Pro needs to be set to limited for HDR content. Not sure if that's actually the case since I only have a regular PS4, which requires both the TV and PS4 to be in Full/Normal black level
 
Debating between this and an Xbox One S. I have GameStop credit that basically makes the price points a wash..

What would y'all do? I guess my main area of concern is whether or not the Xbox One S also upscales DVDs to 4K in the same fashion as the K8500 -- can't find anything on that. Also don't really care for any of the Xbox exclusives minus Ori and the Blind Forest and Gears. Could just also wait for the Xbox One X I guess.. or price drop of the 4K player. Thinking out loud here. Help!
 
Just in terms of UHD, I always prefer a dedicated player but you can do better than $200 for the Samsung. Pretty sure both that and the LG were under $150 this week...in fact I think one of them was $120 at some point very recently.
 
If I buy a 4K Blu Ray right now, and connect the PS4 Pro > Blu Ray (w/ surround system) > TV with HDMIs (2.0), I will still be able to get 4K and HDR? Or does the Blu Ray have to be HDR compatible and I will have to connect the PS4 directly to the TV?

First things first...PS4 Pro can't play 4K blu rays.

Secondly, I'm confused by your suggested connection path. Are you connecting the PS4 to a blu ray player?

Debating between this and an Xbox One S. I have GameStop credit that basically makes the price points a wash..

What would y'all do? I guess my main area of concern is whether or not the Xbox One S also upscales DVDs to 4K in the same fashion as the K8500 -- can't find anything on that. Also don't really care for any of the Xbox exclusives minus Ori and the Blind Forest and Gears. Could just also wait for the Xbox One X I guess.. or price drop of the 4K player. Thinking out loud here. Help!

I use the One S as my 4K player and have no issues with it. It seems to upscale regular Blu-Rays well. They look about the same between PS4Pro and One S. The KS8000 remote works with the xbox too, so that's an additional plus.
 
Just in terms of UHD, I always prefer a dedicated player but you can do better than $200 for the Samsung. Pretty sure both that and the LG were under $150 this week...in fact I think one of them was $120 at some point very recently.

Hmm.. I've been searching around and have only seen the Samsung come close to that if it was refurbished. Seeing how fast these things drop in price though I might want to wait out and just cop one when it's like $100 or less..

I use the One S as my 4K player and have no issues with it. It seems to upscale regular Blu-Rays well. They look about the same between PS4Pro and One S. The KS8000 remote works with the xbox too, so that's an additional plus.
So in terms of watching movies/television shows on your Xbox One S don't you have to constantly switch Game Mode to "Off" and then go about watching the content in Movie Mode because the picture quality is worse in Game Mode? And do the Game Mode settings even save?

The one benefit I'd see having a dedicated 4K player would be that it'd have its own HDMI source and I wouldn't have to constantly flip through different settings.
 
Question.

How do you guys handle subtitles, they light up darker scenes when they show up, is it because I have smart LED on?

I can watch without subtitles but I like having them on.

It's more likely an effect of this TV having so few back light zones and all of them being vertical.
 
BTW: What settings are people running for the Nintendo Switch on this TV? I find that everything from the home screen and fonts to be a bit blurry.. maybe that's just coming from the PS4 Pro though.

Here's my current:
Backlight 10
Brightness 45
Contrast 95
Sharpness 25
Color 50
Tint 50/50
Smart LED High
Black Level Auto
Dynamic Contrast Off
Color Tone Standard
White Balance Untouched
Gamma 0
Color Space Auto

Am I missing something here? Also when docked it seems to lose some color.. I swear in portable mode it's a little more akin to Native color space rather than Auto. Or maybe between both.
 
BTW: What settings are people running for the Nintendo Switch on this TV? I find that everything from the home screen and fonts to be a bit blurry.. maybe that's just coming from the PS4 Pro though.

Here's my current:
Backlight 10
Brightness 45
Contrast 95
Sharpness 25
Color 50
Tint 50/50
Smart LED High
Black Level Auto
Dynamic Contrast Off
Color Tone Standard
White Balance Untouched
Gamma 0
Color Space Auto

Am I missing something here? Also when docked it seems to lose some color.. I swear in portable mode it's a little more akin to Native color space rather than Auto. Or maybe between both.

The home screen is only 720 resolution. Hence the blur.
 
Most people on AVS say DC is required on HDR.
I agree
General consensus saying Low, Medium or High? That forum is impossible to flip through w/ the amount of pages that thread has. The whole debate will never be settled -- how is there not an objectively correct answer?

FWIW I'm rolling w/ Low
 
I can't find one brand new for less than 2k. I'm looking for one that's 65"

I got lucky and bought new 55" for $900 on eBay a few months back. Prices have spiked as they get more scarce. The cheapest I have seen recently is around $1300 so 2K for 65" sounds about right.

Is this tv being phased out? I see less shops list it.

And what is the follow up to this tv?

Yes. They are discontinued and 2017 equivalent is somehow worse.
 
Hey guys. I'm sure these has been asked a lot but I've seen a lot of different opinions. For the KS series, is it better to put the rgb setting to full on tge pro and the black level to low on the tv?
 
Hey guys. I'm sure these has been asked a lot but I've seen a lot of different opinions. For the KS series, is it better to put the rgb setting to full on tge pro and the black level to low on the tv?

Just do Auto for HDMI Black Level on your TV and Auto for RGB on PS4 -- it'll put it in Limited / Low which is correct

I guess there was a handshake issue or something in its infancy but it got a firmware update that fixed it.
 
Just do Auto for HDMI Black Level on your TV and Auto for RGB on PS4 -- it'll put it in Limited / Low which is correct

I guess there was a handshake issue or something in its infancy but it got a firmware update that fixed it.

Do you have a source? Just a couple of pages back I think someone said that putting auto for both doesn't work correctly (maybe the handshake thing you're mentioning?).

Also, someone said normal for the tv and full for the ps4, but I'm not sure who is talking about an OG ps4 or Pro. I played a few nights ago with tv: normal; ps4 Pro: full, looked good. Played the next night with tv: low; ps4 Pro: limited, looked good.

On top of that, people saying that you need tv: low; ps4 (OG or Pro?) limited for media (netflix, blu-rays, etc.). So I really don't know what's best. I want to stop messing with it every damn time I play a game or watch a movie (I'm fine with cranking the backlight up to 20, but other than that I'd like to set it and be done).
 
I just go with Limited/Low now. I genuinely can't see any difference when it comes to games compared to Full/Normal, and at least I know the PS4 is going to look right for whatever I try to watch on it.
 
Do you have a source? Just a couple of pages back I think someone said that putting auto for both doesn't work correctly (maybe the handshake thing you're mentioning?).

Also, someone said normal for the tv and full for the ps4, but I'm not sure who is talking about an OG ps4 or Pro. I played a few nights ago with tv: normal; ps4 Pro: full, looked good. Played the next night with tv: low; ps4 Pro: limited, looked good.

On top of that, people saying that you need tv: low; ps4 (OG or Pro?) limited for media (netflix, blu-rays, etc.). So I really don't know what's best. I want to stop messing with it every damn time I play a game or watch a movie (I'm fine with cranking the backlight up to 20, but other than that I'd like to set it and be done).

Are you using Netflix through the PS4 or the TV? If I'm using the app on the TV do I need to revert the HDR setting adjustments when I switch over to Netflix or a different HDMI input to watch TV? I assumed the settings were set per HDMI device so I haven't been changing the setting since I've been playing only games with HDT enabled lately. Am I doing it wrong?
 
Do you have a source? Just a couple of pages back I think someone said that putting auto for both doesn't work correctly (maybe the handshake thing you're mentioning?).

Also, someone said normal for the tv and full for the ps4, but I'm not sure who is talking about an OG ps4 or Pro. I played a few nights ago with tv: normal; ps4 Pro: full, looked good. Played the next night with tv: low; ps4 Pro: limited, looked good.

On top of that, people saying that you need tv: low; ps4 (OG or Pro?) limited for media (netflix, blu-rays, etc.). So I really don't know what's best. I want to stop messing with it every damn time I play a game or watch a movie (I'm fine with cranking the backlight up to 20, but other than that I'd like to set it and be done).

Sorry no hard source but just a lot of reading on Reddit and a lot of testing on my end. I'm running a PS4 Pro btw so I'm not sure if the settings are different for the OG. Full/Normal and Limited/Low looks exactly the same to me it's just when you mismatch them like Full/Low you'd get crushed blacks or Limited/Normal it'll be washed out. Or it's reversed, but either way the mismatch gives you the wrong settings -- and for me Auto on both goes to Limited/Low and honestly it looks great. I just follow OP's settings minus Warm 2, I like Standard for video games and Warm 2 for movies/netflix.

And I'm with you lol. I've had this set since late November and think just NOW I've finally come to the point where I can stop tinkering with settings. Now though I don't know what to set my Dynamic Contrast at. Either Low or Off (HDR only) because people have been arguing about that on AVSForums. I miss the days where I could just play and not give a fuck. It's actually why I don't like PC games either. All I would do is try to optimize and constantly go back and forth on settings.
Are you using Netflix through the PS4 or the TV? If I'm using the app on the TV do I need to revert the HDR setting adjustments when I switch over to Netflix or a different HDMI input to watch TV? I assumed the settings were set per HDMI device so I haven't been changing the setting since I've been playing only games with HDT enabled lately. Am I doing it wrong?
I just tested this yesterday. I always watch Netflix/Youtube/etc on the TV apps bc the picture quality seems better and I don't have to sift through and turn Game Mode off on PS4. You're saying if the PS4 is off it still displays in Game Mode right -- bc that's the last source used. Right when I start a show on the Netflix TV app it takes Game Mode off and goes to Movie Mode w/ the correct settings. Sometimes I just switch source to my Cable after PS4 just to be safe.. not sure if I completely misunderstood your question though lol.
 
I just tested this yesterday. I always watch Netflix/Youtube/etc on the TV apps bc the picture quality seems better and I don't have to sift through and turn Game Mode off on PS4. You're saying if the PS4 is off it still displays in Game Mode right -- bc that's the last source used. Right when I start a show on the Netflix TV app it takes Game Mode off and goes to Movie Mode w/ the correct settings. Sometimes I just switch source to my Cable after PS4 just to be safe.. not sure if I completely misunderstood your question though lol.

Thanks! I assumed it reset itself back to the correct settings but I haven't tested it myself.
 
Thought I'd share this with the thread. I picked this up from Amazon this weekend and want to give it a recommendation if you're looking to pair some non-bluetooth headphones to the KS8000's bluetooth audio:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K8ANDCI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

(there's also a slightly cheaper unit here that will do this same exact task, but I like the flexibility of also being able to use the unit as a transceiver instead of receiver if need be.)

4Ttetwul.jpg

Same width as the remote, this thing is way smaller than I thought it would be.

Once it's paired as a bluetooth speaker to the KS8000, when you turn it on, you get a banner on the TV asking "Yes or No" if you'd like to pair it again. When you select "yes" with the remote, it pairs up in a few seconds and starts piping your audio to the jack. When you turn the unit off, the TV will default back to the TV's speaker audio automatically.

Volume is controlled on the unit itself, TV volume controls are disabled while it's paired. Gets plenty loud.

Caveats: Great audio/video sync for Plex, Cable television, Netflix etc. when you adjust the "Audio Delay" setting to "0" on the KS8000, but a little too much delay for Game Mode. Usable, but not perfect. I believe you can buy another one of the transceiver units (or even this if you want to use the One Connect optical audio) and connect the two as transceiver/receiver, enabling the use of "aptx low latency" bluetooth, which may solve the problem for Game Mode audio latency.

The audio delay on the TV is saved per input / apps, and not as a different setting between the bluetooth output and default TV speakers. Haven't encountered a scenario where I'd need to change the delay between the bluetooth and default speakers, though, so not a problem.

Unit makes a very loud beep through the headphones when you turn it off. Haven't seen a way to change it. Small gripe, but worth taking the headphones off before turning off the unit to save your ears.
 
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