Dusktildawn48
Member
Yeah its somewhere in settings. Forgot where though
-
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
Settings > System > Expert Settings > Light Effect > Off
Cheers...I don't own the tv but I would hate to have a light on all the time.
AngelOFDeath
Member
Could be a handshake issue or cable. Your receiver does not support arc so that's out of the question. Sucks you don't have other cables to test cause my money is on the one of the cables.
To add I saw 1 review state something about having to plug into the DVD HDMI port for it to recognize HDR. So try different ports on the receiver and see what you find.
styl3s
Member
So what's the deal with what HDMI cable i need? the 2 pack i bought yesterday with my TV said it supported 4k but i would get a blinking/flicker effect every once and awhile when using 4k/HDR but when i used my xbox one S cable with my PC/PS4Pro for hours and hours i never experienced that blinking/flicker effect and the only other HDMI cables i have laying around won't even get a signal in 4k.The pro HDMI came defected out of the box so i had no way of testing that cable.
went looking on amazon just to find some cheap 5-6ft cables but then some say it works 4k/HDR 4:4:4 some say they don't i figure the best place to ask is here.
went looking on amazon just to find some cheap 5-6ft cables but then some say it works 4k/HDR 4:4:4 some say they don't i figure the best place to ask is here.
Joei
Member
The normal setting is for it be on when the television is on, and off when the tv is off.
Aside from that, man, this motion stuttering is really getting to me. I notice it so much in normal stations. I was watching Investigation Discovery and through a whole show it's just stuttering like crazy. Like, almost making the show unwatchable, it's absolutely awful. Then I flip to GSN and it never happens. HGTV and it's back to happening every 2 seconds. ESPN and it only happens once in a blue moon. Then I turn to Comedy Central to check out old ass Hangover, and the thing is bouncing around like mad. I've turned the Motion Plus settings off, then back on at low settings (3 for blur and judder reduction), moved them all around, and I'm not sure if it's making any difference.
Aside from that, everything about the picture looks great. It's just the motion issues. It's such a distracting issue I never had to deal with before.
The DVD port isn't listed as HDCP 2.2/4K though.
I also tried disabling HDCP on the PS4 Pro, but still nothing. And with Denon customer support closed until Monday, my best option might be to just return this receiver to Amazon and find an alternative within the same price range.
That part's easier said than done, though. I could use some suggestions on verified receivers that should play nice with the Pro.
Cable right?
Someone said today's patch fixed that? Did you try that?
AngelOFDeath
Member
Strange I wonder why that reviewer stated that then. Well he did say DVD BLUE RAY PORT. Wrong spelling and all lol.
It's not Blu-Ray vs HD-DVD, it's Dolby vs DTS Surround. People keep worrying about being on the winning side when they'll just end up coexisting at the end of the day.
My understanding is that any HDMI cable will support 4K. However, only the 2.0 HDMI cables will support 60fps streaming. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Joei
Member
I have Directv. I didn't notice any patch or anything today. And I didn't see any updates that I have to download, though it's set up for auto-download I believe.
styl3s
Member
All cables support 4K hdr 4:4:4 whatever? Because I have cables that won't even pick up that signal but will 1080
People are downloading them off a website onto a thumb drive and doing it manually. They come out in other countries before us.
I believe it was 1080i content causing the issue. Unsure.
What is your tv provider? Just curious because I haven't noticed this issue, and I was watching hangout on Comedy Central too haha. I have direct tv and have my settings set exactly like the OP
Joei
Member
I'm similar to OP, with some adjustments for personal preference. But for the most part, movie mode, enhancements off (except film mode at auto1, maybe I should turn that off?), and I currently have the AMP settings at 3 with LED Clear Motion Off. Again, the AMP settings I've been just moving around till I get to something comfortable. Those were both off but the stuttering was still happening so I've been adjusting those.
On a side note, are you able to turn your tv off with your directv remote? The only tv option I can do is change the volume, I can't change the source or turn the tv off with my remote, though I haven't tried all the codes yet.
I'm not sure about the 4:4:4 chroma, but yes, all 1.4 HDMI cables support 4K. Only 2.0 HDMI supports 60fps. I would go with a 2.0 just to be safe.
DreadfulOmen
Member
I honestly dont think its a war. They will both coexist. Movie theaters will most likely go the DV route, and i am assuming uhd will support both hdr formats as well.
DreadfulOmen
Member
Exactly.
Pantz
Member
One setting I'm still confused by is Smart LED. Off, Low, High.
No one seems to suggest turning it off. I've read that Low is good for SDR and "doesn't introduce halos" which means High presumably could. But it should always be on High for HDR content.
Anyone just leaving it on High? What exactly is it doing that's good/bad to an SDR picture? I'd rather not have to turn it off and on every time I use HDR and just worry about the backlight.
No one seems to suggest turning it off. I've read that Low is good for SDR and "doesn't introduce halos" which means High presumably could. But it should always be on High for HDR content.
Anyone just leaving it on High? What exactly is it doing that's good/bad to an SDR picture? I'd rather not have to turn it off and on every time I use HDR and just worry about the backlight.
DreadfulOmen
Member
Try setting 'Auto Motion Plus' to Custom and move both sliders to 0.
I've read people say they see it dimming the blacks or whatever while looking at the tv on high. So they settle with low bc they don't see it happening there.
I think it's probably OK to set and forget on low. You can try high and see if you notice it as well.
Joei
Member
No idea. Only thing I can think of is maybe someone had it on when I was pouring over various website recommendations or whatever. I just turned it off though.
Try turning film mode off. I think I read on av forums that can cause judder (check the at forums link in the op for am explanation of that setting).
Unsure on the DIRECTV remote, I got a harmony on sale so I haven't tried.
Hope it helps. Like I said if you find it driving you crazy get that update. Someone literally said it was a fix on here. No idea if it was true tho.
I did some more reading on this and low or off is reccomended to try and compensate for the issues the tv has from being an edge lit panel.
I leave mine on low. Will add a not to op.
I've left mine on high and haven't noticed an issue
FPS murderer
Member
Like the other poster replied, there is no "win" or "war" here. HDR10 is the facto required standard by UHD brays, it's required and is nowhere to go. Dolby vision is an extra you may get but is not required. (Kind of like the poster said, Dolby digital was the standard required one for all DVDs and DTS a nice extra, both coexisting).
M_A_C
Member
Here's all the options for 1440p I get in PC games. I have to go to 4k for 60fps, then use resolution scaling in games to get close to 1440p.
Hi Folks. Got the 55" KS8000 (US) two weeks ago. Love it on PS4 Pro and Xbox One S.
However, with Dish Network's Hopper 3 and Joey 4k is definitely the worse IQ I've had in a decade.
The Joey 4k consistently sends 1080i to the TV and it looks pretty much how a 480p DVD player looks on a regular HDTV (720p).
As an example, when watching a soccer game, you can barely read the number on a player's back. Significantly worse than same Dish signal on my 2014 50" Vizio 502i-b1
I already tried all settings on usual sites (those on OP on this thread), and played A LOT with settings. Some settings gets the situation better, but it is consistently, really, sub 720p IQ I'm getting on this 4k set.
Am I missing something, is my TV defective or simply Dish's Hopper 3/Joey 4k are a terrible scam/bad joke?
However, with Dish Network's Hopper 3 and Joey 4k is definitely the worse IQ I've had in a decade.
The Joey 4k consistently sends 1080i to the TV and it looks pretty much how a 480p DVD player looks on a regular HDTV (720p).
As an example, when watching a soccer game, you can barely read the number on a player's back. Significantly worse than same Dish signal on my 2014 50" Vizio 502i-b1
I already tried all settings on usual sites (those on OP on this thread), and played A LOT with settings. Some settings gets the situation better, but it is consistently, really, sub 720p IQ I'm getting on this 4k set.
Am I missing something, is my TV defective or simply Dish's Hopper 3/Joey 4k are a terrible scam/bad joke?
Yeah, no issues with it on High so far. Blacks are as inky as ever. I'll experiment with more content.
It should definitely always be High for HDR content?
Separate question: remember when people were complaining about the Xbox 1 crushing blacks, possibly to artificially add pop to the picture? Was that ever resolved?
Blackpanther25
Member
Thank you. I'll give it a try.
M_A_C
Member
You have to change the input name to bluray player
Awesome. Thanks!
noomi
Member
Curious if anyone here is using wireless to connect their KS8000 to the internet. More specifically 802.11 AC over a 5GHz signal.
I have no way of hardwiring the TV with ethernet so wifi is really the only option. As awesome as 5GHz wireless AC is, it suffers from poor range when compared to 2.4GHz wireless b/g/n signal.
I might be forced to switch back to a 2.GHz signal, but will lose a lot of speed in the process
Worried that 4K streaming wont be nearly ad good if i switch.
I have no way of hardwiring the TV with ethernet so wifi is really the only option. As awesome as 5GHz wireless AC is, it suffers from poor range when compared to 2.4GHz wireless b/g/n signal.
I might be forced to switch back to a 2.GHz signal, but will lose a lot of speed in the process
Worried that 4K streaming wont be nearly ad good if i switch.
Quick Mustard
Member
Haines,
I tidied up the OP with some formatting if you want to quote this post and use it to make it easier on the eyes?
I've one change to the Full and Normal Black Levels as, unless I'm mistaken the most recent conversation about this was to set them at those levels.
Obviously change anything you feel is wrong or out of date.
For Gaming
Picture Mode:
Gaming
Picture Size:
16:9 Standard
Fit to screen:
On
Backlight:
5 10 depending on time of day and environment
Brightness:
45
Contrast:
100
Sharpness:
0
Colour:
50
Tint (G/R):
50/50
Smart LED:
Low / High (Some people do not like High due to seeing the screen dim during gameplay)
HDMI UHD Colour:
On for your desired input
HDMI Black Level:
Normal (Due to on going discussions over this, Normal seems to be the best option)
Colour Tone:
Warm1 / Warm2 (Xbox Calibration recommended Warm1 but can vary by preference)
Gamma:
0
For HDR Gaming
Backlight:
20 (Bugged at the moment with Samsung firmware, only affects Game Mode)
Dynamic Contrast:
Off (Can vary by preference, Off gives the best range and detail)
PS4 Video Settings:
Resolution:
Auto
RGB Range:
Full (Due to on going discussions over this, Full seems to be the best option to match the TV on Normal)
HDR:
Automatic
Deep Colour Output:
Automatic
Movies, Netflix, etc
Colour Tone:
Warm2 (Industry Standard)
Digital Clean View:
Off (Can be used for looking at 720p content if you wish)
Auto Motion Plus:
Off
TV Sound
HDMI Audio Format:
Bitstream
Audio Format:
Dolby Digital (Your choice here might vary depending on your Audio set up)
Tips:
Do not forget to check in game brightness sliders for games with a new TV. I find default is the best for most of these.
Do not forget to change your settings for all modes, including when HDR kicks in on Netflix, etc
Turn ALL Eco Settings off
To turn the Samsung Logo Light off follow these instructions:
Settings > System > Expert Settings > Light Effect > Off
Turn Anynet off in System Settings if you dont want TV to power on system hooked up
Make sure you update to the latest Firmware
Xbox One S Users Turn Colour Depth to 10bit
Do not use HDR+ Mode, this is just a fake HDR setting to simulate it, this is NOT how you enable HDR.
Using Game Mode for movies and TV is probably ok. Use at your discretion. Switching to Movie Mode makes sense to me because I swap between Warm1 and Warm2 for each type of media.
PSVR Processing Box will prevent HDR from working, its NOT compatible.
Use the proper HDMI Cables for HDR, AKA the one that comes with the PS4 Pro.
Smart LED set to Off / Low helps reduce with a backlit display. High will make the issues stand out more.
I tidied up the OP with some formatting if you want to quote this post and use it to make it easier on the eyes?
I've one change to the Full and Normal Black Levels as, unless I'm mistaken the most recent conversation about this was to set them at those levels.
Obviously change anything you feel is wrong or out of date.
For Gaming
Picture Mode:
Gaming
Picture Size:
16:9 Standard
Fit to screen:
On
Backlight:
5 10 depending on time of day and environment
Brightness:
45
Contrast:
100
Sharpness:
0
Colour:
50
Tint (G/R):
50/50
Smart LED:
Low / High (Some people do not like High due to seeing the screen dim during gameplay)
HDMI UHD Colour:
On for your desired input
HDMI Black Level:
Normal (Due to on going discussions over this, Normal seems to be the best option)
Colour Tone:
Warm1 / Warm2 (Xbox Calibration recommended Warm1 but can vary by preference)
Gamma:
0
For HDR Gaming
Backlight:
20 (Bugged at the moment with Samsung firmware, only affects Game Mode)
Dynamic Contrast:
Off (Can vary by preference, Off gives the best range and detail)
PS4 Video Settings:
Resolution:
Auto
RGB Range:
Full (Due to on going discussions over this, Full seems to be the best option to match the TV on Normal)
HDR:
Automatic
Deep Colour Output:
Automatic
Movies, Netflix, etc
Colour Tone:
Warm2 (Industry Standard)
Digital Clean View:
Off (Can be used for looking at 720p content if you wish)
Auto Motion Plus:
Off
TV Sound
HDMI Audio Format:
Bitstream
Audio Format:
Dolby Digital (Your choice here might vary depending on your Audio set up)
Tips:
Do not forget to check in game brightness sliders for games with a new TV. I find default is the best for most of these.
Do not forget to change your settings for all modes, including when HDR kicks in on Netflix, etc
Turn ALL Eco Settings off
To turn the Samsung Logo Light off follow these instructions:
Settings > System > Expert Settings > Light Effect > Off
Turn Anynet off in System Settings if you dont want TV to power on system hooked up
Make sure you update to the latest Firmware
Xbox One S Users Turn Colour Depth to 10bit
Do not use HDR+ Mode, this is just a fake HDR setting to simulate it, this is NOT how you enable HDR.
Using Game Mode for movies and TV is probably ok. Use at your discretion. Switching to Movie Mode makes sense to me because I swap between Warm1 and Warm2 for each type of media.
PSVR Processing Box will prevent HDR from working, its NOT compatible.
Use the proper HDMI Cables for HDR, AKA the one that comes with the PS4 Pro.
Smart LED set to Off / Low helps reduce with a backlit display. High will make the issues stand out more.
Quick Mustard
Member
Curious if anyone here is using wireless to connect their KS8000 to the internet. More specifically 802.11 AC over a 5GHz signal.
I have no way of hardwiring the TV with ethernet so wifi is really the only option. As awesome as 5GHz wireless AC is, it suffers from poor range when compared to 2.4GHz wireless b/g/n signal.
I might be forced to switch back to a 2.GHz signal, but will lose a lot of speed in the process
Worried that 4K streaming wont be nearly ad good if i switch.
My TV is wirelessly connected to my 5GHz router thats below my room.
I have no issues with HDR 4K on Amazon or on Youtube or Netflix.
noomi
Member
At the moment I do as well, but the connection will drop sometimes due to the router being on the 2nd floor. I think I have 2 out of 4 wifi bars for signal strenght.
I wonder if a 2.4GHz wireless b/g/n is sufficient enough for 4k streaming (netflix, amazon, youtube...etc) the signal strenght is much better for 2.4GHz in my house.
Cable quality matters. I have to run fairly long cables and depending on the cable have issues of either flickering picture, missing refresh rates or not supporting full chroma subsampling when connected to a PC.
Theoretically any HDMI 1.4 High speed cable should work, but as I've found out there is a lot of difference between those. The shorter the cable the more likely it is to work as expected. Note that getting an expensive cable is no guarantee either, my 10m active one was nearly 70 euros and it didn't work well at all so it's getting returned on Monday.
I'm in the same boat in the sense I don't know what HDMI cables to get. Can anyone suggest a good 10ft cable?
Rbk_3
Member
DV can't be patched in, it requires a special chip.
Rbk_3
Member
You should have it on High for HDR, otherwise you're really gimping HDR and only getting a peak brightness of around 500nits as opposed to 1400nits.
First comment under the Rtings review for the KS8000
Try Movie on High and let me know what you think. I honestly can't see a downside with any content I've tried.